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This  book  was  presented  by 

John  W.    Clark 


Tex. lib, 


For  Reference 

Not  to  be  taken  from  this  room 


MftE  BOOKCASE 


RARE  BOOKCASE 


VM 

H^^^^" 

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mu'^l    ~ot  be 

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Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 

in  2010  with  funding  from 

NCSU  Libraries 


http://www.archive.org/details/cottonfabricsglOOfran 


For  Reference 

Not  to  be  taken  from  this  room 


U  ' 


W.  A.  GRAHAM 
ATLANTA,  < 


tULB. 


average  yarn  count, 
breadth  in  inches, 
total  threads  per  sq.in. 
wt.ln  yds. per  111. 
a  constant  that  for  fine 
48  is  756  and  for  coarse 


As    C    ' 

..     AxC 


Illustrations « 

TTj36*,3yard,  48x48', T3"8.&  14s 

36x96x3 
A=  "TSh  =  1^.5. 


(2)38i",5.80yard,60x56,30B.&2 
38^x116x5.80 


A= 


756 


s  34.3. 


"CAN  HE  DELIVER  THE  GOODS?" 


in  the  tneasttre  for  a  man  now- 
adays ;  and  the  same  for  a 
belt,  B  HO  ADS  LEATHER 
BELTING  will  keep  your 
machinery  going. 
Let  us  mail  yoti  our  catalogue. 


J.  E.  RHOADS  &  SONS 


PHILADELPHIA,    13   N.    Third    St. 
NEW  YORK,   40  Fulton  St. 
BOSTON,   Hamblet  &   Hayes  Co., 

Eastern  Agents,  105-111  Summer  St. 
Factory.    WILMINGTON.    DEL. 


sO^^iX 


MRE  BQOKCAa 


^hQ  OTIS 

TUBULAR  FEED  WATER  HEATER,  OIL 
SEPARATOR  AND  PURIFIER 


EXHAUST  1  INLET    EXHAUST  \  OUTLET 


is   not   an   experi- 
ment   but   a  tried 
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that  the  makers  are 
not  afraid  to 

GUARANTEE 

To  heat  the  feed  water  to  the  boiling 
point  (210  or  212  desieea)  with  the 
exhaust  steam  without  causing  any  back 
pressure,  nlso  to  extract  the  oil 
from  the  exhaust,  so  that  the  exhaust 
steam  after  being  passed  through  the 
heater  can  be  used  for  heating  purposes, 
and  the  water  of  condensation  for  the 
heating  system  be  relumed  to  the  iioiler 
without  the  additional  expense  of 
an  eliminator. 


We  are  so  sure  of 
the  OTIS  that  we 
agree  to  pay  all  cost 
of  a  trial — freight, 
cartage,  piping,  etc., 
if  it  fails  to  do  all 
we  claim  for  it. 


CATALOGUE  AND  PRICES  AT  YOUR  SERVICE 


The  Stewart  Heater  Company 


218  Norfolk  Ave., 


BUFFALO,  N.  Y. 


jt^o^i'OD^  :"i'^f 


( 


LANE  PATENT  STEEL  FRAME 

CANVAS    MILL    BOXES 
BASKETS    and   TRUCKS 

Made   in   all   styles,   shapes   and   sizes   to   suit 
requirements. 


Materials  used  are  always  highest  quality. 
Workmanship  as  perfect  as  skilled  and  experienced 
workmen  can  make  it. 


Our  product  is  the  result  of  years  exclusively 
devoted  to  originating  and  developing  this  highest  type 
and  most  perfect  of  all  movable  mill  receptacles. 


MANUFACTURED     ONLY    BY 

W.    T.    LANE    &    BROTHER 

Office    and     Works  : 

POUGHKEEPSIE,  N.  Y.,  U.  S.  A. 


RARE  BOOKCASE 


How  TO  Popularize 

IRRIGATION 
BONDS 


Among  Eastern  Investors 


[COPYRIGHT   APPLIED   FOR] 


FROM  THE 
PUBLISHED    BY 

Frank  P.  Bennett  &  Co.,  Inc. 

530  Atlantic  Avenue,  Boston  ;  3  I  Nassau'Street,  New  York  :  757  Broadway.  New 
York;  308  Chestnut  Street,  Philadelphia  ;  208  Corcoran  Building.  Washington,  D. 
C.  :  930  Monadnock  Block,  Chicago ;  215  Fourth  Avenue,  Pittsburgh,  Pa.  ;  536 
Empire  Building,  Denver,  Colo.  ;    440  Constitution  Building,  Salt  Lake  City. 


/  A.  GRAHAM  CLA  ^^-^ 

ATLANTA,  GA. 

A  Cotton 
Fabrics  Glossary 

Containing 
instruftions  for 
the 

manufacture 
of  every 
known  grade 
and  variety 
of  Cotton 
Fabrics 

^rice $3M 


Wij^ 


Frank  P.  Bennett  &  Co.,  Inc. 

Boston,  New  York,  Philadelphia,  Chicago,  Washington, 
Pittsburgh,  Salt  Lake  City. 


^^-^ii^^r. 


/"X^ 


-r  .5M^  /it-'^ 


Of- 


,|tf^ii4,4-/^-'/t'^ 


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E  Cotton  fabrics  Glossary 


CONTAINING  INSTRUCTIONS  FOR   THE   MANUFACTUR  E 

OF  EVERY  KNOWN  GRADE  AND  VARIETY 

OF    COTTON    FABRICS 


[Copyrighted  1896  hy  BentiPlVx  In/ormation    Jf/rnri/] 


"PIQUE"  OR  "MARSEILLES." 

The  quilted  weave,  as  applied  to 
cotton,  fabrics,  is  known  among  weav- 
ers as  the  "Marseilles"  weave.  It  is  a 
double  cloth,  the  face  being  a  moder- 
ately close,  plain  weave.  The  back  is 
a  very  open,  plain  weave.  Between  the 
back  and  face  a  soft  twisted  heavy 
filling,  called  "stuflBng,"  is  woven.  The 
two  cloths  are  stitched  together  at 
frequent  intervals  in  weaving,  the 
stitches  being  arranged  so  as  to  suflB- 
ciently  bind  the  two  cloths  together, 
and  at  the  same  time  form  an  orna- 
mental design  or  pattern.  The  "stuf- 
fing" between  the  cloths  gives  the  fab- 
ric the  embossed  effect. 

THE    FACE 

being  plain  woven  is  drawn  into  hed- 
dles  as  for  sheeting.  The  back  is  also 
a  plain  weave,  but  the  back  warp  is 
also  the  quilting  warp,  and  has  to  be 
mounted  in  a  "jacquard"  harness,  un- 
less the  pattern  is  small  enough  to  be 
produced  on  a  "dobby."  •  Two  face 
threads  and  one  back  (or  quilting) 
thread  are  drawn  into  each  dent  of 
reed.  The  construction  is  shown  in 
diagram,  Fig.  1. 


^1    SIN 

Two  threads  of  face   and  one  ^<i;CiJ  Jtufflnt  Fining' 
of    back    warp    are    drawn    into  ~m     mn     "''..     '^ 
each  dent  of  re>ed.     Ba/Ck   warp  ^■■^■B  Rack  FiUme 
Is  on  a  separate  beam,  and  con-  TBBnBB  st.ini.f  Fuunf 
tatns    one-half    the    number    of  SgRggS  '''^"■..'''"•"e 
threads  that  are  in  the  face        naimaa  n^ick  Fiiiim:* 


Fig.     1. 

piodicates  that  the  thread  is  niis<-<l  l\v  tin-  Jac>|ii»ril  onI>  wi.en  uj'e<l  for 
kuilding.  pSbowi  gamp  tlirrad  when  raisied  hy  the  4X»mber  boarfl  r»^iilarly  t<i 
fonn  the  back.      •  Back  lilliig  same  as  face. 

THIS  CONSTRUCTION 

calls  for  a  loom  with  two  shuttle  boxes 
at     each  end     of  lathe.     Large     pat- 


terns require  a  "jacquard"  attachment, 
while  the  small  designs  may  be  mad& 
on  a  dobby  head;  also  two  warp  beams 
are  necessary.  In  operation  the  loom 
throws  in  one  back,  two  face  and  one 
stuffing  pick  in  regular  order.  To 
make  the  embossed  effect  show  up 
well  the  back  warp  is  woven  with  con- 
siderably more  tension  than  the  face. 

AS  AN  ARITHMETICAL  BASIS 

for  the  construction  of  this  fabric,  , 
about  11  times  the  square  root  of  the 
average  hank  number  on  face  and 
back  may  be  used.  The  "stuffing" 
should  be  four  times  as  heavy  as  the 
average  number  used  for  face  and 
back.  On  this  basis  a  Marseilles  quilt 
or  counterpane,  if  woven  with  average 
No.  35  on  face  and  back,  and  No.  8^ 
stuffing  would  have: 


64  threads  ppr  inch  of  No.  30 

32  80 

64  picks  "      •'    "     12 

32    •■  ••      "    •'     4-) 

32    "  •■       "    "      8%! 


warp  on   face. 

back. 

filling  on  facp. 

"         back. 

"  as  stiiftinsr. 


and  if  woven  12  quarters  square,  would 
weigh  about  3  9-10  pounds  per  quilt; 
or  take  a  30-inch  vesting  fabric,  made 
of  average  No.  80  yarn  on  face  and 
back  and  40  stuffing.  The  stuffing  yam 
in  this  case  is  only  twice  the  weight 
of  the  face,  but  tnere  are  twice  as 
many  picks  relatively  thrown  in. 
There  is  no  back  filling  used  in  vest- 
ings.  The  back,  when  not  used  in 
quilting,  is  floated.  The  organization 
would  be: 

98  threads  per  incli  on  face,         ,  --,     ,„ 

98  nick^  Average  >(0. 80. 

98      "  •■         Btiiffinx    No.  40. 

The  picks  are  thrown  in  two  face 
and  two  stuffing  regularly.  At  30- 
inches  wide  the  goods  would  weigh, 
4  65-100  yards  per  pound. 

IN   THIS   EXAMPLE 

the  average  number  of  the  face  yam 
is  given.     The  fabric  looks  better  and 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


wears  better,  if  warp  and  filling  on 
face  are  alike,  but  it  Helps  the  weav- 
ing out  wonderfully  to  have  a  consid- 
erable difiference  between  the  two,  the 
wari)  being  from  10  to  20  per  cent 
heavier  than  the  tilling. 

it  is  beyond  the  scope  of  an  element- 
ary article  like  this  to  attempt  any 
description  of  the  means  used  to  pro- 
duce the  ornate  designs  of  the  fabric. 
The  artist  who  originates  textile  de- 
signs must  draw  each  design  to  fit  the 
fabric  he  is  dealing  wiih.  Bach  fabric 
has  its  special  characteristics  as  to  de- 
sign, and  each  also  has  its  limitations. 
The  characteristics  and  limits  of  the 
fabric  under  consideration  may  be 
here  stated. 

COLOR  EFFECTS. 

1.  Color  effects  are  hardly  admis- 
sible. The  fabric  is  essentially  a  white 
one.  The  quilting  warp  is  sometimes 
colored,  so  as  to  show  a  pattern  com- 
posed of  colored  lines  and  dots  on  a 
whue  ground.  The  design  is  not  there- 
by altered,  for  the  pattern  woven 
with  colored  stitching  may  also  be 
woven  entirely  white. 

2.  The  fabric  admits  only  of  a  de- 
sign of  "dots"  arranged  to  produce 
large  designs. 

:',.  In  the  vestings  and  fabrics  with 
small  patterns,  the  quilting  warp 
threads,  when  not  raised  to  make  a 
stitch,  are  floated.  The  dots  then 
should  be  arranged  so  as  to  avoid  very 
long  floats. 

4.  On  counterpanes  the  design  has 
to  be  very  large,  and  has  to  be  pro- 
duced on  a  "jacquard"  machine  of  com- 
pai'atively  small  capacity.  This  calls 
for  a  design  that  can  be  enlarged  in 
the  tie-up  of  the  harness  and  to  this 
end  certain  parts  of  the  design  are  ar- 
ranged so  as  to  admit  of  several  repe^ 
tifions. 

THE  NAME  "PIQUE" 

is  now  generally  applied  to  this  fabric 
when  woven  in  small  patterns  within 
the  capacity  of  the  "dobby."  This 
name  particularly  applies  when  the 
goods  are  to  be  used  for  ladies'  and 
children's  dresses,  men's  shirt  fronts, 
etc.  However,  the  fabric  that  is  called 
"pique"  when  used  for  dresses  or 
shirt  fronts,  would  be  a  "Marseilles" 
if  made  up  into  a  man's  vest.  The 
name  "pique"  is  probably  from  the 
French  "piquer,"  to  quilt  or  prick  with 
a  needle.  Possibly  the  name  "Mar- 
seilles" is  also  a  corruption  of  the 
French  "matelas,"  a  quilt  or  mattress. 

A  CORDED  "MARSEILLES." 
or  "pique"  is  essentially  the  same  fab- 
ric as  the  figured  article,  but  is  woven 


rather  differently.  The  warp  is  drawn 
into  a  three-shed  harness  like  a  com- 
mon three-shed  twill.  To  produce  the 
corded  effect  the  harnesses  are  op- 
erated by  a  doboy.  Two  warps  are 
used  as  in  the  preceding  cases,  one 
warp  having  twice  as  many  threads  as 
the  other;  the  quilting  warp  is  drawn 
into  the  back  harness,  the  face  warp 
in  the  middle  and  front.  The  pegging 
plan  of  dobby  chain  is  shown  at  Fig.  2. 


Dl 


I  Stuffing 


DBD  ^"ce  filling 

aam     •• 
ama 

amm  atumn; 

□□■ 

□■D        " 

aom 
Fig.     2. 

As  this  weave  calls  for  four  picks  of 
face  filling  and  two  picks  of  stuffing  in 
succession,  the  lathe  need  only  have 
drop  boxes  on  one  end. 

QUILT  WEAVE  GOODS 

should  be  finished  so  as  to  preserve, 
as  far  as  possible,  the  convexity  or 
puff  of  the  quilting.  To  this  end,  after 
bleaching  and  sizing,  they  should  be 
dried  on  tenter-hooks.  The  piece 
goods  can  be  dried  on  the  tentering 
machine,  through  which  they  should 
run  face  down.  The  quilts  or  coun- 
terpanes are  handled  singly,  and  are 
stretched  on  square  tentering  frames 
and  dried  in  a  hot  room.  There  is  a 
fabric  on  the  market  called  "P  K," 
which  is  often  confounded  with 
"pique,"  the  names  having  the  same 
sound.  "P  K"  iK  a  float  weave  and 
the  fabric  bears  no  relation  to  "pique" 
or  "Marseilles."' 


TUCKS. 


Cotton    Wash    Fabric. 

A  tuck  fabric  is  a  single  cloth  and 
is  made  by  using  two  or  more  warps, 
is  generally  composed  of  all  cotton, 
cotton  and  silk,  and  all  silk,  and  can 
be  made  on  any  loom  having  either  a 
dobby  or  a  jacquard  attachment,  and 
single  or  double  box,  double  box 
looms,  of  course,  giving  great  scope 
for  filling  patterns. 

A  tuck  effect  in  a  cloth  is  a  perfect 
pleat  running  across  the  cloth  from 
one  selvage  to  the  other  and  was  used 
extensively  a  few  years  ago  in  making 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


fancy  bosoms  for  men's  outing  or 
neglige  shirts  and  ladies'  waisting, 
very  elaborate  effects  being  produced 
by  weaving  ground  cloth  in  colors 
either  harmonizing  with  or  contrast- 
ing to  that  of  the  tuck. 

Two  different  numbers  of  filling  are 
used  in  this  fabric,  namely,  a  fine  one 
for  the  plain  ground  or  flat  part  of  the 
cloth,  and  a  coarse  number  for  the 
tuck  as  the  tuck  is  a  filling  effect, 
and  the  coarse  filling  causing  it  to 
stand  out  more  prominently  from  the 
ground  fabric  than  would  be  the  case 
if  fine  numbers  of  filling  were  used  to 
form  the  whole  fabric. 

In  making  a  common  tuck  effect  two 

Drawing-in   Draft. 

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BOB  BGBO 
□BGBZIBDB 
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C  GBGBGBGB 
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S  GBGB~BGB 
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gggbgggb  — 
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gbggcbgg  > 
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GB:=GGbGG  — 

CG-BGGGB  - 

GB_GGBGG  u 

GGGBGGGB  <D 

GBGGGBDG  cr 


GBG««__  _ 
BGBDWGiG 

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BGB-TBGBG 


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BGBDBDBG 
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BlJBOBGBG 
DBGBGBGB 
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C  ^  n. 


Harness    -== 
Chain    ^ 


beams  are  necessary,  also  10  harness 
or  heddle  shafts.  The  top  beam  con- 
taining the  tuck  warp  is  drawn  in  on 
the  2,  4,  6,  8th  harnesses,  and  the  bot- 
tom beam,  containing  ground  warp,  is 
drawn  on  1,  3,  .5,  7th  harnesses,  the 
other  two  harnesses  to  work  independ- 
ently for  selvage,  plain  weave  being 
used  all  the  time. 

The  harness  or  head  chain  is  pegged 
to  work  all  the  harnesses  plain  weave 
at  the  same  time  for  whatever  length 
of  plain  ground  is  desired  in  the  cloth 
being  woven.  "For  example,  if  you 
want  40  picks  plain  ground  cloth  be- 
fore weaving"  the  tuck,  simply  peg 
the  chain  plain  weave  on  all  harnesses 


for  40  picks.  Then  to  form  the  tuck 
peg  the  chain  so  as  to  work  only  tuck 
harnesses  for  plain  weave,  for  num- 
ber picks  necessary  to  give  length  of 
tuck  desired,  the  ground  harnesses  be- 
ing at  rest. 

While  the  tuck  harnesses  are  work- 
ing, the  take-up  motion  is  temporarily 
dispensed  with  by  coupling  the  take-up 
finger  to  a  jack  in  the  head  motion  by 
running  a  strap  over  the  top  of  the 
loom  and  down  the  side.  After  hav- 
ing woven  the  desired  number  of  picks 
to  form  the  tuck,  as  the  loom  turns 
over,  all  the  harnesses  are  set' working 
plain  weave,  and  as  the  first  pick  of 
the  chain  operates  the  head  motion, 
tne  take-up  finger  drops,  the  take-up 
motion  is  again  in  gear,  and  the  reed 
beats  in,  the  pick  binding  the  turn  and 
throwing  it  out  from  the  ground  fab- 
ric. 

This  fabric  is  generally  made  to 
finish  from  214  to  31/2  ounces  and  27 
inches  wide. 

CONSTRUCTION      COMMON      TUCK. 

1,300  reed,  2  ends  per  split,  1  end  per 
heddle,  29  inches  width  in  reed,  includ- 
ing selvage;  1036  plus  IG  splits,  2072 
plus  64  ends.  Ground  warp  and  tuck 
warp,  l-40s  cotton;  70  picks  per 
inch  l-40s  cotton  filling.  7  per  cent 
shrinkage  in  width  in  weaving  and 
finishing;  10  per  cent  shrinkage  length 
finishing   and   weaving. 

Tuck  pattern:  46  picks  l-40s  cotton 
for  plain  ground;  32  picks  2-20s  cot- 
ton for  tuck.  Selvedge,  4  in  a  heddle 
and  split.     Finish,  about  31/2   ounces. 


SCRIM. 


Scrim.  A  loose  woven,  flimsy-loo'v- 
ing  cloth,  composed  entirely  of  two-ply 
cotton  yarn,  both  warp  and  filling,  and 
resembles  a  fine  meshed  fish  net. 


Scrim  is  usually  made  in  bright  col- 
ored stripe  and  plaid  effects.  It  is  pe- 
culiarly adapted  to  the  draper's  art,  as 
It  is  a  light-weight  creation,  therefore 
soft  and  pliable;  it  is  also  used  as  a  fly 
net  for  horses  in  the  summer  time. 

Scrim  is  made  of  2-20s  cotton,  dry 
color,  in  both  warp  and  filling,  and  as 
a  fabric  requires  nothing  in  the  nature 
of  a  finish  except  being  run  through  a 
hot  press,  simply  to  smooth  the  wrin- 
kles which  maj'  occur  during  the  pro- 
cess of  weaving. 

By  using  3-lOs  and  4-lOs  cotton  warp 
and  filling,  and  of  course  in  proper  pro- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


portions,  we  produce  hammocks  and 
material  for  laundry  bags  with  this 
same  scrim  weave,  or,  to  be  correct, 
gauze  weave.  Scrim  can  be  woven  in 
any  power  loom,  but  best  results  are 
obtained  by  using  a  light  running  loom 
such  as   Bridesburg  or   Mutual.       The 

SCRIM  WEAVE  OR  LACY  EFFECT 
can  be  produced  by  using  a  regular 
doupe  set  of  harness,  but  the  best, 
quickest  and  cheapest  method  is  by  us- 
ing an  attachment  known  as  theAshoff 


4tb 

:ird 
?.id 
1st  pick 

I  r 


- 

- 

J5 

- 

- 

■ 

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,~ 

/ 

L-^ 

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1 

s 

I 

m^ 

/ 

/ 

1 

1 

r 

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■■- 

i 

- 

- 

-i 

■ — 

1 

/  ■ 

- 

JV 

^ 

1 

iN 

1 

\\\   a. 

1 

1 

T*\-- 

L 

±  ± 

Ground  harness 

of  Doupe  set 
Grouud  harness 

St;inda!d 
Skeleton  harness 

Reed  plan 


□  DD 

■  ■D 
DCD 


Harness 
chain. 


This  weave  applies  to  a  fabric  (scrim)  in  which 
llie  Doupe  set  is  working  everv  nick,  and  each  Warp 
thread  working  with  a  mate  thread,  and  producing 
I)erfect  I.eno  plfect. 

NOTE.  In  drawing-  In  the  Ground  thread  crosses 
over  tlie  Doupe  thrtad. 

motion,  which  is  an  improved  set  of 
harness  or  heddle  and  heddle  shafts 
built  especially  for  this  kind  of  effects 
in  cloth.  This  motion  consists  of 
two  heavy  wooden  frames  built  sim- 
ilar to  heddle  frames  and  suspended  in 
the  loom  from  the  top  roller,  in  the 
manner  in  which  old  roller  looms  were 
equipped  for  weaving  gingham. 

In  place  of  heddles  these  frames  are 
filled  with  a  coarse  reed,  in  accordance 
with  number  of  splits  per  inch  re- 
quired for  fabric;  these  reed  dents  are 
plugged  with  lead,  alternately  top  and 
bottom,  and  two  ends  are  drawn 
straight  through  both  harnesses. 


THE  ASHOFF  MOTION 
makes  a  shed  in  the  tegular  roller 
loom  style  or  by  treddle  or  cam,  and 
has  likewise  a  sideway  movement, 
which  is  obtained  by  placing  a  small 
eccentric  on  the  bottom  loom  shaft. 

Near  the  side  of  loom  this  eccentric 
is  connected  by  a  one-half  inch  iron  rod 
with  a  pair  of  bevel  gears  which  are 
fastened  on  the  loom  frame  at  a  point 
equal  to  the  centre  of  the  shed.  These 
gears  are  in  turn  coupled  by  smaller 
rods  to  the  heddle  frames,  and  create 
the  side  motion,  which  allows  the 
threads  to  operate  in  a  sort  of  rolling 
motion  or,  in  other  words,  each  thread 
rolls  half-way  round  its  mate  thread 
and  the  filling  pick,  binding  it  in.  and 
on  the  next  pick  the  roll  is  reversed, 
and  this  creates  the  lacy  effect.  Use 
regular  2-20s  cotton  yarns  and  set 
the  warp  about  44  inches  in  the  reed, 
20  ends  and  20  picks  per  inch;  will 
weigh  about  l^,-^  ounces  and  measure 
about  36  inches  wide  from  loom. 

FOR  LAUNDRY  BAGS 

use  4-lOs  cotton  in  the  gray;  set  30  in- 
ches in  reed,  three  ends  and  three  picks 
per  inch;  will  run  25  inches  from  loom; 
no  finish. 

In  hammocks  very  elaborate  effects 
are  made  with  the  scrim  weave  as  ap- 
plied to  the  Knowles  or  Crompton  har- 
ness loom.  Diamond  twill  and  fancy 
colors  are  a  favorite  combination  and 
make  good  selling  line. 

4-lOs  cotton  yarn  (warp  filling) ;  42 
inches  in  reed;  14  ends  per  inch;  one 
end  per  dent;  14  picks;  stripe  patterns. 
No  finish  as  cloth  is  made  into  ham- 
mocks straight  from  loom. 


HAMMOCK  CRASH. 


This  ploth,  as  the  name  implies,  is 
used  in  the  making  of  hammocks.  It 
is  made  strong  and  durable  to  stand 
the  strain  and  wear  that  it  is  subjected 
to  and  can  be  woven  on  almost  any  or 
dinary  loom.  It  is  generally  made  in 
three  grades,  viz.,  best,  medium  and 
low. 

The  best  grades  are  generally  made 
on  the  jacquard  loom,  so  that  very 
elaborate  patterns  may  be  introduced. 

A  400  tie-up  is  generally  used,  but 
any  tie  may  be  used  according  to  the 
requirements  of  the  design  and  quality 
of  the  cloth. 

The  warp  is  generally  composed  of 
three  or  four  or  more  colors  of  yarn, 
the  colors  being  very  bright  and  con- 
trasting, such     colors  as  green,     red; 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


gold  and     black  taking    a    prominent 
rart. 

The  design  is  generally  an  extensive 
and  elaborate  one  and  in  stripe  form, 
but  designs  of  the  following  character 
are  soiaetinies  employed,  with  particu- 
lars as  follows: 


m^^ 


Warp:  %  cotton,  as  aaxiiyic,  sO  ends 
per  1  in.,  10  x  2  reed,  46  in.  wide  in 
reed. 

Filling:  %  cotton,  as  sample,  IS 
picks  per  1  in. 

The  warp  is  woven  with  an  even 
tension  and  where  a  gauze  or  leno 
weave  is  used,  two  or  more  beams  are 
necessary  and  the  necessary  slackners 
etc. 

When  the  warp  is  composed  of  sev- 
eral colors  of  yarn,  the  filling  is  gen- 
erally used  undyed  or  in  one  solid 
color. 

Semi-fancies  (generally  of  medium 
quality)  and  plain  or  lower  grade 
cloths  may  be  woven  on  harness  looms 
(16  to  24  harness  being  employed). 
Plain  or  lower  grade  cloths  are  som.e- 
times  woven  in  looms  having  a  cross- 
weaving  or  gauze-reed  attachment 
when  the  weave  is  a  gauze  or  leno, 
which  is  generally  the  case. 

These  cloths  (medium  grade)  are 
not  made  as  strong  and  compact  as 
the  first  quality;  the  particulars  being 
as  follows: 

Warp:  14  ends  per  1  in.,  %  cotton,  7 
X  2  dent  reed. 

Filling:  12  picks  per  1  in.,  %  cot- 
ton. 

The  weave  is  generally  a  semi-fancj* 
one,  1.  e..  plain  weave  for  2  in.  or  3  in. 
and  then  a  gauze  stripe  or.  gauze 
stripes  at  irregular  intervals  across 
the  warps.  The  colorings  in  warp  are 
similar  to  the  first  grade  colorings, 
and  the  design  is  less  elaborate,  some- 
times on  the  following  order: 


Repeat  several  times. 


The  cheapest  qualities  are  much 
lighter  in  weight  and  more  open  in  tex- 
ture, the  particulars  being  as  follows: 

Warp:  8  ends  per  1  in.,  %  cotton,  8 
dent  reed  x  2;  mess  every  other  dent. 

Filling:  7  picks  per  1  in.,  %  cotton. 

The  weave  is  generally  a  gauze  one, 
one  that  is  largely  used,  being  3  picks 
plain  and  1  pick  gauze. 

This  quality  is  often  made  with  un- 
dyed cotton  warp  and  filling  and  is 
dyed  in  the  piece  a  solid  color.  It 
may  also  be  made  with  colored  warp 
threads,  but  on  account  oi  the  scarcity 
of  warp  threads  less  effective  results 
are  obtained  than  are  obtained  in  the 
first  two  grades. 

A  typical  sample  is  herewith  en- 
closed, but  is  a  little  better  quality 
<^han  the  particulars  given  refer  to. 

These  cloths  are  generally  made  by 
manufacturers  who  make  up  their  own 
cloths  into  hammocks  and  sell  in  this 
form. 

They  require  no  finishing,  as  they 
are  made  up  into  hammocks  in  the 
condition  as  taken  from  the  looms,  ex- 
cept in  cases  where  the  goods  are  to 
be  dyed. 

DRAPERY   FOR   HAMMOCKS. 

Tn  making  hammocks,  hangings  or 
draperies  are  employed  and  these 
cloths  are  closely  related  to  the  ham- 
mock cloth.  They  are  made  on  the 
same  looms  as  hammock  cloths  and 
are  of  the  same  texture. 

The  yarn  used  is  the  same  generally, 
but  the  cloth  need  not  be  as  strong  as 
the  body  cloth.  The  ends  and  picks 
per  1  in.  may  be  a  little  lowir.  The 
drapery  cloths  are  made  two  in  a 
width,  there  being  12  in.  or  14  in.  of 
the  reed  empty  between  the  two  cloths. 
The  filling  is  thrown  across  m  the 
regular  manner,  and  when  the  cloth  is 
woven,  the  filling  is  cut  in  the  centre 
of  space  between  the  cloths  and  the 
ends  thus  formed  constitute  the  fringe 
of  the  hangings,  which  fringe  is 
knotted  in  various  ways  to  make  the 
hanging  more  effective. 

In  order  to  secure  the  warp  threads 
at  the  inside  edge  of  drapery  while 
weaving,  the  two  ends  nearest  the 
fringe  side  are  made  to  cross  each 
other  in  weaving  and  make  a  firm  s'el- 
vage  for  the  actual  cloth. 

The  warp  yarn  may  be  either  in 
colored  s-ripe  form  or  solid  color,  and 
the  filling  solid  color,  or  both  warp  and 
filling  may  be  in  undj'ed  state  and 
dyed  in  the  piece  when  ^v'oven. 

The  draperies  Are  made  to  match  tne 
body,  similar  colorings  and  designs  be- 
ing employed. 

WEAVES  TO  EMPLOY. 
The  best  qualities     have     generally 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


jacquard  effects,  and  as  the  texture  is 
not  so  compact,  the  plain  weave  must 
be  used  extensively  in  ground,  the 
figure  being  either  5  harness  satin  or 
3—1  twill. 

The  medium  qualities  as  made  on 
harness  looms  have  weaves  of  the  fol- 
lowing character,  the  plain  weave  be- 
ing conspicuous  in  order  to  make  a 
firm  cloth: 

■■nananBanDBaaaa 
aaBGHaBBCDBDBDaa 
aDBBSBa::r:BCBDBaB 

BD jBBBCDBDBDDDBa 

aBcnBz:.B'ZB3CBanB 

■  ■    ■'BDBDZiriBGBaaBBBDD 
□BOB  jBnaGDBBCBBD 

aaaaa  aGDaaaaDaa 
BjaaGBoaaaaaDBDa 
aaaGBDaBBDaDaaaa 
aaGBaaaaDBGBGBBG 

BGBaaaBGBDBGBBGD 
GBGGBBOBaBDBBGGB 
BGBGaBB~:iBaBMOGBa 
UBDBGCBBaBBCCBGB 
□  DBnaGGBBB^GIIGBn 
BGGliaBLjCBCCBGBaa 

bi!_,gbgbg::gbgbggb 

GB  *G JBOBGcGaGGBB 

BaBBaaaGBaaaaaaa 
aaGaanoaaBG  bbgb 
anaGaaGGana  cbbg 
GaGBGaBGaaGBGoaa 

aGaG«GaBGCBGBGOB 

Low  grade  cloths  are  made  almost 
exclusively  witx.  the  gauze  weave,  the 
following  being  a  typical  one: 


^Sfe 


MADRAS. 

Madras  is  a  light-weight  cotton 
cloth,  composed  of  all  cotton  or  cotton 
and  silk,  and  is  a  single  cloth  fabric, 
having  excellent  wearing  qualities. 

It  has  been  on  the  market  for  many 
years  and  is  considered  a  staple  in  the 
cotton  goods  line.  It  is  a  narrow  fabric 
sold  at  27  inches  width,  and  is  made  of 
varying  grades,  weighing  from  two 
ounces  to  three  ounces  per  yard,  and  is 
used  at  all  seasons  of  the  year.  It  is  used 
by  the  ladies  for  summer  skirts,  shirt- 
wait  suits,  etc.;  by  men  for  shirts, 
shirt  bosoms.and  four-in-hand  and  bow 
neckties.  It  is  also  used  as  a  drapery  in 
workmen's  homes  for  windows,  etc. 

It  is  known  by  the  plain  white  ground 
and  fancy  colored  narrow  stripe  warp 
effects  and  is  made  of  cotton  varns 
ranging  from  l-26s  to  l-80s  warp  and 


filling,  and  from  50  to  100  or  more  ends 
per  inch.  The  knowledge  of  the  util- 
ity of  madras  being  common  among 
most  all  classes  of  people,  permits  of 
the  greatest  scope  in  creating  both  har- 
monious and  contrasting  color  and 
weave  combinations,  simplicity  in  col- 
or arrangement  being  generally  the 
keynote  to  success  in  producing  an  ele- 
gant,   good-selling   line. 

COLORS. 

Those  colors  most  in  demand,  which 
have  been  adapted  to  this  fabric,  are 
rich  and  delicate  shades  of  blue,  rose, 
green,  linen,  tan,  lavender,  ecru  and 
bright   red. 

For  prominent  hair  line  effects  use 
black,  navy  blue,  dark  green,  royal 
blue  and  cherry  red.  Good  fast  color 
is  necessary  in  making  madras  as  it  is 
a  wash  fabric,  the  feature  of  which  is 
the  fine  colored  stripe  effect  running 
warp  ways. 

If  inferior  colors  are  used,  they  will 
surely  spread  during  the  finishing 
process,  and  will  cause  a  clouded  stripe 
where  a  distinct  one  was  intended, 
thereby  causing  a  pile  of  seconds.  Ma- 
dras used  in  making  men's  stiff  bosom 
shirts, which  retail  at  $1.50  and  upward, 
in  most  cases  is  made  entirely  with  a 
plain  weave. 

Sometimes  the  colored  stripe  is  de- 
veloped by  doubling  up  in  the  heddle 
and  reed  (by  drawing  in  two  or  more 
ends  in  one  heddle,  and  the  threads  of 
several  heddles  in  one  split  in  the  reed). 

ANOTHER    METHOD. 

Another  method  is  to  weave  the 
colored  warp  threads  on  other  harnesses 
than  those  of  the  body  of  the  cloth, 
using  a  twill  weave  on  these  harnesses, 
and  by  doing  so  create  a  perfect  cord 
in  the  cloth. 

High-grade  patterns  are  usually 
formed  by  making  a  plain  white  stripe 
from  1/^  inch  to  1^/^  inches  in  width, 
and  the  colored  stripe  of  2,  4,  6,  8  ends. 
In  using  any  of  these  numbers  of 
ends,  the  width  of  the  colored  stripe 
is  governed  by  the  fineness  of  reed,  and 
method  of  drawing  through  the  reed, 
consistent  with  the  weave  effect  de- 
sired. 

Madras  is  usuallj^  made  on  either 
the  old  roller  loom,  or  the  more  modern 
dobby  loom. 

Fancy  madras  is  made  more  success- 
fully on  the  dobby  loom,  20-harness  ca- 
pacity covering  most  all  combinations 
used  in  this  line. 

A  good  grade  of  madras  is  made  by 
using  l-30s  cotron  warp  and  filling. 

1.200  reed,  two  ends  per  dent:   Sl^A 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


inches  in  reed;   56  picks,  l-30s  fllling; 
finish,  27  inches;  weight,  2%  ounces. 

WARP  PATTERN. 

14  White    l-30s1 

1  White  2-40S '|-Plaln  weave. 
14  White    l-30sj 

4  Rose  1-30S Basket  weave. 

10  White    1-30S.. Plain  weave. 

4  Green  l-30s. .  .Basket  weave. 

47 

Finish  for  madras:  Run  through 
washer,  cylinder  (to  dry  cloth),  ten- 
tering  machine,  calender  or  press. 


Finishing  Particulars. 

Starch,  6  ounces  cornstarch,  2 
ounces  white  cocoanut  oil  softening,  1 
gallon  water.  Calender  with  light 
calender  machine. 


GINGHAM  (Common.) 


Gingham  (common)  is  a  single  cloth 
composed  entirely  of  cotton  and 
always  woven  with  a  plain  weave; 
it  is  the  most  universally  known 
fabric  on  the  market  and  is  made 
in  various  grades,  having  from  50 
to  76  ends  per  inch  in  the  reed  and  of 
l-26s  to  l-40s  cotton  yarns  in  both 
warp  and  filling.  It  is  a  wash  fabric, 
made  in  both  check  and  plaid  patterns, 
into  whicu  an  almost  unlimited  variety 
of  color  combinations  are  introduce.d. 
It  is  most  commonly  used  in  the  manu- 
facture of  ladies'  and  children's  aprons 
and  summer  outing  dresses. 

It  can  be  woven  in  any  power  loom 
having  a  box  motion  attached   but  is 


One   repeat. 


Design. 


Harness  Chain, 


aaDBDaDBGaDBDaaaaaoaDBaaaaaaDaDaBDBaBoaDBaBaDHa 
aaaaBaBaaaaoBD'i'aaDaaaDaaauaDaaDBaaaaaaDBaBa'^DBB 
DBDaaBaaaBaaaBDaDaaaDBDaDanBGaaaaDaaBnaaBDaaaDD 
aaaaaaanBDaaaasaacaDaaaDauaaaaaDcaaaDaDaDaDaBDa 
DaaBaBaaaaaaoaDaDBDBDanaciaDaanDBBDaDaDaaBDBaGaa 
BGaDaaaD>DaaaaaaBDanBDanBDaoaaDBaaDaaaDaDaDDGaa 
nBaaDBDBaBDBDBDaDaDaDaaaaaGBDaBDaaBDBDBDBGaBBDn 
ananaGaGaaaGaGsaaaaDaDaDaGaaaaaGGaGaGaDaaaDaaQG 

Drawing-in  Draft. 

naaaaaDCGGnnGGGDaGGGGDGaGGGGGGGaacGccGGcccDccHa 

DGGQGG  GDaGnnaaGQQGGGaacOQC'GCBaGCanGGCGGGCCaBGG 

naGaaaGBaaGBGGaaGGaBGaGBGGGaaGGaaGacorBGGan  Dra 
aGaGaGaGaaaaaaaaGDaGGQaaGGBa  aaaQBGanaacGBGGGGa 
DaaaaaaGaaGGGaGGGaoDGaDGaaGGGGanDGGaaGGDaGCGOGQ 
BGDaaGGGaaanBaaaaGnDacaaaaanaDDacccancnBGCcGCGn 

Reed  Plan. 


Note.- 


-Design  is  two  repeats  in  filling,  and  is  intended  to 
tion  between  first  and  second  repeat. 


show    connec- 


Dyeing    Particulars  for   Madras. 

Following  are  dyeing  particulars 
for  good  madras  shades: 

LIGHT     GREEN. 

Mordant  yarn  with  2  per  cent  tannic 
acid.  Give  5  turns  and  fix  with  2  per 
cent  tartar  emetic.  Wash  well.  Dye 
1  per  cent  new  methylene  blue  G  G, 
14  per  cent  thioflavine  T.     Wash  well. 

PINK. 

Mordant  yarn  with  2  per  cent  tannic 
acid.  Give  5  turns  and  fix  with  2  per 
cent  tartar  emetic.  Wash  well.  Dye 
9  ounces  acridine  red  6  B,  3  ounces 
rhodamine  3  G.  C.  Bischoff  &  Co. 
Wash   well. 


most  successfully  made  in  Fairmount, 
Bridesburg.  Mutual  Mason  4x1,  Cromn- 
ton  6x1  gingham  loom,or  4x1  box,  roll- 
er loom,  using  four  harness  or  heddle 
shafts,  and  having  as  a  selvage  eight 
double  ends  on  each  side. 

Gingham  warps  are  made  in  two 
lengths,  720  yards  and  1,080  yards,  and 
these  lengths  being  subdivided  into 
shorter  lengths  or  cuts,  usually  14  and 
21,  respectively. 

When  a  gingham  warp  is  woven  out 
the  set  of  harnesses  or  heddles,  it  is 
taken  out  of  the  loom,  and  is  placed  in 
a  twisting  frame  and  twisted,  an  opera- 
tion which  means  the  fastening  to- 
gether, by  means  of  the  fingers,  of  those 
ends  remaining  in  the  set  of  harness, 
and  those  of  the  new  warp.  A  practised 


10 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


operator  can  accomplish  this  work  at 
the  raie  of  50  to60  ends  per  minute,  and 
■he  is  generally  a  boy  of  perhaps  16 
years  of  age. 

Loom  fixers  each  have  a  section  of 
looms  numbering  60,  to  care  for  and 
keep  in  good  running  order. 

FINISHING  GINGHAMS. 

The  goods  are  taken  from  the  loom 
and  conveyed  to  the  wareroom.and  the 
■ends  of  several  pieceis  or  cuts  are 
sewn  (chain  stitch)  together  on  a  sew- 
ing machine,  thus  making  a  continu- 
ous length  of  cloth  of  several  hundred 
yards,  about  300  yards.  (This  is  done 
to  facilitate  handling.) 

It  is  now  run  through  the  sprinkler, 
the  object  of  which  is  to  dampen  the 
<;loth  in  such  a  manner  as  to  improve 
its  receptive  qualities  in  the  sizing  op- 
•eration. 

The  sprinkler  is  a  machine  having  a 
box  arranged  on  its  top.  Through  this 
l)ox  is  passed  a  roller  having  bristles 
set  on  end  at  regular  intervals,  similar 
to  the  brush  in  a  carpet  sweeper:  the 
box  is  fed  with  water  by  means  of  a 
small  pipe,  and  the  cloth  on  entering 
the  machine  passes  over  the  roller 
brush,  which  in  revolving  comes  in  con- 
tact with  the  water,  and  spreads  it  over 
the  cloth,  which  is  drawn  through  the 
machine  by  means  of  deliverj^  rollers  at 
the  opposite  end. 

From  the  sprinkler,  it  goes  to  the 
size  tubs,  where  it  is  given  a  good 
amount  of  starch  sizing.  It  is  next  run 
through  the  cylinders  to  dry  it,  and 
then  run  throughthetentering  machine, 
Avhich  operation  is  a  continuing  of  the 
•drying  process,  also  stretching  the 
cloth  in  width.  It  is  then  passed 
through  the  calender,  which  is  a  sort 
of  hot  press,  and  in  which  operation  it 
is  smoothed,  and  receives  the  desired 
glaze  on  the  face  of  the  cloth.  From 
the  calender  the  cloth  goes  to  the  lap- 
ping machine,  where  it  is  rolled 
around  a  small  wooden  board, known  as 
-a  lapboard,  the  operator  making  a  bolt 
of  each  cut  of  cloth,  the  length  of 
which  is  governed  by  the  subdivision 
of  warp. 

After  the  lapping  operation,  the  cloth, 
■which  is  now  in  the  shape  of  a  bolt 
<commercial  term),  is  taken  by  the 
lolder,  who  unravels  a  couple  of  yards 
and  doubles  it  up,  and  neatly  rolls  it 
back  in  i>lace,  while  he  tucks  in  the 
ends.  The  bolt  is  then  stitched  with  a 
strong  cord,  twice  through  each  end; 
the  ends  are  then  singed  with  a  gas 
flame  to  remove  odd  scraps  of  filling 
threads.  The  bolts  of  cloth  are  then 
placed  in  a  plate  press  in  the  following 
■order:     three  or  four  bolts  are  laid  flat 


side  by  side  in  the  press,  and  a  zinc  or 
other  metal  plate  placed  upon  them. 
This  is  repeated  until  the  press  is  filled 
with  desired  number  of  pieces  or  bolts, 
the  top  of  the  press  is  then  run  down 
by  means  of  a  belt  connecting  with  a 
driving  shaft,  and  the  goods  allowed  to 
remain  in  this  condition  several  hours, 
after  which  the  paper  bands  are  placed 
around  them  and  they  are  ready  for 
shipment.  The  following  is  a  list  of 
standard  gingham  patterns,  known  as 
two  shuttle  checks  and  usually  made  in 
blue,  brown,  green,  black,  red,  colors. 
Warp  and  filling:  2-2,  4-4,  6-6,  8-8,  10- 


ili '' ii^'i§^4i4l'<4il' 


10,   12-12.   14-14,   16-16,   18-18,  20-20,  24- 
24,  the  pattern  reading: 


Warp  and  fining. 


2  Blue      „_  24  Blue 
2  White   ""^  24  White 

For  side  pattern     effects    use    same 
colors: 

4—2,    8—4,   6—4.   10—6,   20—10. 


:o— 6— 2— 6 


Read  in  this  manner: 
10  Blue       1 
2  Blue"     j-Warp  and    filling. 
6  White    j 

Staple  ginghams  are  known  to  the 
mill  man  as  900,  1,200,  1,400,  meaning 
900  reed.  1,200  reed,  1,400  reed.  Those 
made  with  a  1,400  reed  are  usually  in- 
tended as  an  imitation  of  zephyr  ging- 
hams. 

A  good  grade  of  ginghams  can  be 
made  thus:  reed,  900 — two  ends  per 
dent;  29  inches  in  width;  44  picks  fill- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


il 


ing.  Finish,  27  inches.  Clieck  pattern. 
Weight  about  2.1  ounces;  l-26s  cotton 
warp  and  filling.    Plain  weave. 

A  better  grade  thus:  reed,  1,200 — two 
ends  per  dent;  29  inches  in  width;  52 
picks  filling.  Finish,  27  inches;  weight 
2%  ounces;  l-30s  cotton  warp  and  fill- 
ing; generally  stripe  patterns;  plain 
weave. 

A  fine  grade  thus:  reed,  1.400 — 
two  ends  per  dent;  29  inches  in  width; 
60  picks  filling.  Finish,27  inches;  weight 


1» 


a> 


hLoj 


Design. 

DDDaDDQBZBaBaCCDaaDBCBCB 

DaagaaBUBu^LiuucDODBiaiiDBD 
ciDDuaaLj*u«u«uuuu^aLi«n«rB 

naDaaGiJBu«LjBD^zcjGuL.«i"Bri[ 

DaQDDa«DBa«a^DL^,^GB"|i"BD 

naaBDBBaaaBa-BDBcaaBBBBB 

BaaaBaBBSBBkB-B^BGBBBBBB 
QBDBGBBeii^titBBLJkCB    BBBBBBB 

BaBaBnt23tB£^>i)&BB^auBG'BaHaBB 
DaGaDaBSS4>:iaaGa'_aGaaaaaaB 

BaflUaJBB£5BBB>GBJBLBaaBBB 

DnanDnnaaanacnGCGDnanaaa 
□□aDDDajanaDGDaDaDBCBGan 
-  □□aaDDBaaDaannDDDuaijaGa 
□naDDDBDajanDaDGnDBDBuaD 
aanaajQana" aoDDnaanaDBna 
aDaaaaaaaaBODDanaDBDBDBn 
gBDaGBBBBaBaDBaBaaaaaaaB 
aDByaDBaaBaaBDBGBaaaQaaa 
□■□■aaaaBBBBnaGaDaasiE3E3Ba 

BgBaBaBBBBBBBGBDBGSSSeSB 
DBDBaBBB^BBBnBGBGBBSS^BB 
aaBDBaBBBBBBCBaBOBBBSBBB 


SIX 

white 


SIX 

black 


i2ySRaSPS°D""L3D""°CBBGDBB   (U    5 
■BDnBBDDBBanBBaGBBGGBBan   t"  S 


gDDpannBnaDBnnaaaDGBaanB 

DGnDDDB JCGBGnCGnGGBGaGBa 

DBDDnBganBacGBGaaBGaaBaG 
■□pnogaGBQGGBGGGGDnaBaaG 
DDDDajaaGG  QGGBaBnaa  ggq 
DanngpgaGaaDDGnBanaaDnnn 
anBaBgngaGaaacaaaanoDDDD 


bo 

c  ^ 


ganaBBDBDBGBaBGBnBDBBaBB  m   . 

BnaGBgagBgaaaGaDBaaGBBBD  "  c 
gBgagBgaBaBaaaaaDanaaana  <d  ■- 
BgagagBaaaaaaDaaaaaaaaaa  c  <^ 
BGaaaaBLjBaEGBGaQBaBGaGBa  '^  -c 

OBGBGBaBQBnBGBaBGBGBaBaB  cS  O 
GBaBDBGBaBGBaBGBGBGBaBGB  *^ 


=S  be 


C.S 


tTvo  ounces;  l-40s  cotton  warp  and  fill- 
ing. Check  or  plaid  pattern,  plain 
weave. 

Ginghams  are  made  with  from  two 
colors,  warp  and  filling,  to  eight  colors 
in  warp  and  six  in  filling. 

The  1,200  grade  is  occasionally  made 
up  in  spotted  check  effect  or  say  six 
black,  six  white,  having  a  small  dia- 
mond-shaped figure  at  regular  inter- 
vals, produced  in  dobby  looms. 

Another  style,  having  great  vogue 
some  10  years  ago  is  known  as  apron 
gingbams,  made  in  900  grade,  and  hav- 
ing about  three-quarters  of  the  width  of 
the  cloth  woven  in  a  small  check,  4x4, 


and  the  remainder  having  a  large  pat- 
tern, with  a  woven  check  in  the 
filling.  If  is  usually  made  in 
two  colors,  and  made  36  inches  in  reed. 
Reed  900 — two  ends  per  dent;  36 
inches  in  reed;  44  picks  filling.  Finish 
■^1  inches;  l-26s  warp  and  filling.  Plain 
weave. 


Warp  pattern. 


Filling  pattern. 
13-18  ends.  f  ^'*" 


8  Blue 

2  Whi:'   "1    Read  from  top  to  bottom   then  reverse 

6  Blup 
!•  White 
10  Blue 
22  White 
10  Blue 
10  White 

S  Blue 

2  White 
S3  Blue 

1  White 
4  Blue 

10  White 

2  Blue 
16  White 

2  Blue 
10  White 

4  Blue 

2  White 
40  Blue 


2    =  444  ends   in  border. 
1348   in   ground. 


1792  +  S  ends  blue. 


Blue  for  Ginghams. 

Following  are  the  dyeing  particulars 
of  a  good  blue  for  a  gingham  (com- 
mon). 

For  100  pounds  yarn,  1st  bath:  6 
pounds  iramedial  indone  3B  cone;  12 
pounds  sodium  sulphide  crystals;  4 
pounds  grape  sugar  (glucose);  3 
pounds  soda  ash;  4  pounds  common 
salt. 

For  standing  bath;  3  pounds  imme- 
dial  indone  3B  cone;  6  pounds  sodiuri 
sulphide  crystals;  1^  pounds  glucose, 
%  pound  soda  ash. 

Immedial  indone  3B  cone  is  one  of 
the  Cassella  Color  Co.'s  colors.  Should 
a  bluer  shade  be  required,  a  little  im- 
medial indone  B  cone  can  be  added,  if 
a  greener  shade  is  needed,  a  little  im- 
medial yellow  D   can  be  added. 

Dye  for  one  hour,  turning  the  goods 
several  times,  then  squeeze  off  well  by 
means  of  the  squeezing  rollers  at- 
tached to  one  end  of  the  vat,  and  level 
by  wringing  off  rapidly  at  the  wring- 
ing post. 

Then  age  the  yarn  three-quarters  of 
an  hour,  rinse  well  and  soap  if  re- 
quired. Uniform  and  careful  squeez- 
ing and  wringing  off  are  essential  to 
ensure  good  levelness  of  the  dyeings. 

Immedial  indone  3B  cone  and  B  ccne 
are  excellently  suited  for  the  produc- 
tion of  every  shade  of  indigo,  both  for 
light  shades  when  dyed  by  themselves, 
and  for  medium  and  darker  shades 
when  dyed  in  combination  with  im- 
medial direct  blue,  or  the  other  brands 


12 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


of  imn  edial  indone.  By  reason  oi  theii 
simple  method  of  application  they  de- 
serve the  special  attention  of  all 
branches  of  cotton  dyeing. 

FINISHING   FOR   GINGHAMS. 

Starch:  2-8  ounces  cornstarch;  4-8 
ounces  white  softening;  1  gallon 
water;  mix  cold,  boil  half  an  hour. 

White  softening  is  from  cocoanut 
oil.  Pieces  are  run  through  a  starch 
mangle  and  on  to  a  cylinder  drying 
machine.  They  are  then  damped  on  a 
sprinkler  machine  and  given  a  light 
calendering. 


CRASH, 


Crash  is  a  single  cloth  fabric,  com- 
posed of  all-cotton  yarns,  or  of  cotton 
and  jute.  It  is  used  principally  for 
toweling  and  as  a  covering  for  fine  ear- 
pets.  In  some  of  the  southern  states 
it  is  made  with  a  plain  weave,  and 
worn  as  a  summer  men's  wear  fabric, 
as  it  is  cheaper  than  linen. 

It  is  usually  made  of  l-14s,  l-lGs,  1- 
20s  cotton  warp  and  filling,  and  some- 
times of  1-lOs  and  l-12s  cotton.  As  a 
carpet  covering,  it  is  woven  in  a  nar- 
row loom,  and  has  either  broad  oi  nar- 
row stripes  in  the  warp,  of  fancy  col- 
ored dyed  yarns,  dark  red  and  dark 
blue  being  common  colors.  The  ground 
of  the  cloth  is  made  of  cotton  .yarns  in 
the  gray,  or  unbleached  state.  This 
fabric  has  the 

APPEARANCE  OF  LINEN. 
due  to  the  heavy  sizing,  and  calender- 
ing in  finishing.  Small  warp  effect 
twill  weaves  are  used,  such  as 
2 — 1,  either  right  or  left  hand, 
and  running  at  45  degrees. 
l-16s  cotton  warp  and  filling  crash 
toweling  is  made  of  yarns  both  in  the 
gray  and  bleached  state,  generally 
about  l-14s  cotton  warp  and  filling,  in 
widths  varying  from  15  inches  to  24 
inches  finished,  either  all  bleached  or 
with  Slide  and  cross  borders,  or  in  what 
is  known  as 

HAIR-LINE    PLAIDS. 
Rarely    any    colors,    excepting    red    or 
navy  blue,  are  used  in  toweling. 

THE  SAME  WEAVES 
are  used  in  this  line  as  in  ordinary  lin- 
ens, namely,  the  plain  weave  or  1 
up  and  1  down,  in  the  commoner 
grades.  But  for  bathing  purposes, 
where  a  rough  toweling  is  sometimes 
required,  there  is  the  bird's-eye  or 
huckaback  weave — also  the  eight-end 
honeycomb  weave.       Toweling,  having 


as  a  design  floral  or  scroll  figures,  is 
made  on  narrow  loams,  having  a  jac- 
quard  machine  attached;     this    sort  is 
used  for  bureau  scarfs. 
Crash  can  be 

WOVEN  ON  ANY  POWER  LOOM. 

The  kind  of  loom  necessary  to  produce 
any  certain  grade  of  crash  is  governed 
by  the  construction  of  weave  effect  de- 
sired, as,  for  instance,  either  the  plain 
weave  or  twill  weave  effects  are  best 
adapted  to  the  roller  or  cam  loom;  the 
more  complicated  fancy  weaves,  such 
as  huckaback  and  honeycomb,  ne- 
cessitate the  use  of  a  dobby  loom. 

TO  FINISH  CRASH, 

it  is  first  run  throiugh  a  sprinkler,  to 
dampen  it;  then  it  is  put  throug-h  the 
size  tub  and  rather  heavily  sized, 
after  whioh  it  is  run  through  a  dryer. 
From  the  dryer  it  goes  to  the    calen- 

HUCKABACK  DESIGN. 

nanBDBnBDB  ds-om 

■DBnuBBaBn  nonnoBnano  blmb 

.JB.~aaB  .BOB  :zna:DaDaGfl3  nnattaaaaDn  DiaGB 
BDBaBDBaBa  DBOBanacaa  BaiJUBBnoBM  aaaa 

BBBBHBnBDB    BDBaDGL:GCa  BtlGB 

BGBQBZBGBa  BCBD 

Des'gn  Drawmg-in  Draft  Rm(1  Plan        Harness  Cl.aia 

HONEYCOMB   DESIGN. 


DBnBDBDO 

DDBDB 

BDBBBDBG 

DBOBB 

GGGBDGGG 

□BBBBBCB 

BGBBN 

aGBGBGGG 

BBBBBBBD 

GBBBB 

nBGCGBDG 

DBBBBBDB 

BGBB^ 

B^aonDBG 

BaSBBOBD 

DBGBB 

GGGaDDGB 

DBDBnBGD 

GDBGB 

nDBDBana 

GDDBG 

Desifn 

Harness  O.ain 

DCIBBGGBB 

BBGGBBGD 

Keed  Plan 

DraiTiug-iii  Draft 

ders,  in  which  machine  the  gas-heated 
top  roller  acts  upon  the  sizing  and  pro- 
duces the  rather  glazed  effect  on  the 
face  of  the  cloth. 

Crash  towering  using  huckaback 
weave:  reed  850,  2  ends  per  dent;  18 
inches  wide;  l-16s  cotton  warp  and  fill- 
ing CbleaOh) ;  46  picks  of  filling;  finish 
l^Yz  inches;  weight,  1.85  ounces. 

To  make  a  softer  feel,  use  one-half 
number  of  picks  and  wind  l-16s  and  1- 
20s  (1  end  of  each)  on  same  bobbin, 
and  weave  it  in;  this  also  increases 
the  mottled  effect. 

Crash  toweling  using  honeycomb 
weave;  reed  850,  2  ends  per  dent;  20 
inches  wide;  2-20s  cotton  warp  and  fill- 
ing (bleach);  44  picks  of  filling;  loom 
width,  16  ounces;  no  finish;  weight,  SM: 
ounces.  Use  dohhy  loom  for  each  of 
these  fabrics. 

In  making  honeycomb  toweling,  if 
using  a  cross  border,  the  Crompton 
double  cylinder  or  two-weave  dobby  is 
the  most  convenient,  as  the  border 
weave   and    the    body   weave   each    has 


A  COTTOX  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


IS 


its   separate     harness     chain, 
worked  from  the  box  chain. 


and   is 


amount  of  wearing,    and    1cjI\    dressy 
and  chic,  without  being  too  expensive. 


THE  FINISHING. 

Detailed  Description  of  the   Process  of 

Crash  Finishing. 

To  finish  a  piece  of  crash  ready  for 
the  market:  If  the  piece  is  clean 
enough  and  a  cheap  rough  finish  is 
required,  the  first  process  is  starching. 
A  very  light  starch  liquor  is  necessary, 
to  one  gallon  of  water,  two  to  six 
ounces  of  cornstarch,  one-half  to  one 
pound  cocoanut  oil  softening.  Mix  in 
cold  water  and  boil  together  for  30  min- 
utes. The  pieces  are  passed  through 
a  starch  mangle  at  full  width,  over  a 
drying  machine  of  steam  cylinders. 
They  are  then  passed  through  a  light 
calender  to  straighten  the  goods  out, 
and  smoothed  down  a  little.  They  are 
then  folded  up,  packed  in  cases  and 
shipped  away. 

The  goods  can  be  bleached,  each 
piece  being  placed  separately  in  a 
kier,  or  the  ends  sewed  together  and 
the  goods  run  into  a  kier,  with  a  4  de- 
gree Tw.  solution  of  caustic  soda,  and 
boiled  six  to  eight  hours. 

The  goods  are  then  run  through 
A  WASHING  MACHINE 
and  returned  to  the  kier,  and  the  soda 
boil  repeated  for  eight  hours.  The 
goods  are  run  through  a  w^ashing  ma- 
chine, and  through  a  solution  of  oil  of 
vitriol  1/^  degree  Tw.,  washed  again, 
and  run  through  a  solution  of  chloride 
of  lime  at  i^  degree  Tw.,  piled  in  a 
bin  for  eight  hours,  run  through  an 
acid  solution  of  oil  of  vitriol  i/^  degree 
Tw.,  and  well  washed  till  all  trace  of 
acid  is  eliminated.  If  any  acid  is  left 
in  the  goods,  the  goods,  being  very 
heavy,  will  be  tender,  as  they  will  re- 
tain so  much  acid  when  dried  on  the 
drying  machine,  they  will  have  the 
fibre  of  the  cloth  injured.  The  goods 
are  then  starched  with  four  to  six 
ounces  to  a  gallon  of  cornstarch,  one- 
half  pound  cocoanut  oil,  white  soften- 
ing. This  is  to  add  a  little  fullness  to 
the  cloth  without  making  it  too  stiff 
and  starchy.  The  goods  are  then 
dried  on  a  tenter  frame  at  full  width, 
to  keep  them  straight  and  have  the 
weft  perfectly  straight  across  the 
piece. 

If  required,  they  are  then  given  a 
light  calendering.  If  a  light  buff  or 
ecru  is  required,  a  little  color  is  added 
to  the  starch  liquor,  or  the  goods  are 
dyed  on  a  iieger  machine,  or  on  a 
padding  machine. 

These    goods     will     stand     a    great 


DOMET  OR  OUTING  CLOTH, 


Domet,  or  outing  cloth,  is  a  single 
cloth,  composed  of  single  cotton  yarns, 
generally  1-20  to  1-26  warp  yarn,  and 
l-14s  or  l-16s  cotton  or  cotton  and  cot- 
ton shoddy  mixed  filling  yarns.  It  is 
made  in  bright  colored  stripe  and  plaid 
patterns,  and  is  used  in  the  manufac- 
ture of  shirts,  pajamas,  etc.,  and  is  al- 
ways woven  with  a  plain  weave,  or  1 
up,  1  down. 

In  effect  it  is  a  fabric   having 

A  SOFT,  REGULAR  NAP 
on  both  sides  of  the  goods  and  in  ap- 
pearance is  very  similar  to  a  flannel. 
The  nap  is  produced  by  carding  or 


m 


iiH 


Domet. 


brushing  up  the  loose  outside  fibres 
on  a  rather  slack  twisted  filling  yarn, 
by  running  the  cloth  through  a  nap- 
ping machine. 

The  Tiapper  is  a  machine  consisting 
of  a  series  of  wooden  rollers,  through 
which  the  cloth  passes,  as  the  machine 
is  working,  automatically.  The  brush 
roller,  that  part  of  the  machine  which 
raises  the  nap,  is  a  wooden  cylinder 
covered  with  wire  card  clothing,  and 
is  in  fact  the  same  as  a  fancy  on  a 
woolen  card.  This  brush  roller  is  set 
on  the  top  of  the  machine  near  the 
centre,  and  is  so  arranged  that  the 
cloth  passes  between  it  and  a  wooden 
or  other  solid  roller  or  cylinder,  and 
as  the  brush  roller  revolves,  the  wire 
teeth  in  the  card  clothing  come  in  con- 
tact with  the  surface  of  the  cloth  ana 
as  they  are  running  in  opposite  direc- 
tions, the  filling  being  the  softest,  the 
natural  result  is  a  nap  being  raised. 


14 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


A  domet  fabric  may  have  either  a 
high  or  long  nap,  or  a  short  or  close 
nap. 

THE  DEGREE  OF  NAP 
to  be  produced  is  governed  first  by 
the  experienced  judgment  of  the  manu- 
facturer in  buying  a  filling  yarn  whicB 
will  produce  the  best  results,  namely,  a 
fine  nap,  with  minimum  loss  of 
strength  as  a  thread,  as  a  knowledge  of 
the  amount  of  filling  twist  and  in  a 


Filling  loses  about  %  per  cent  of  its 
weight  during  napping  process. 


Domet. 

given  count,  less  the  percentage  of 
twist,  to  create  proper  degree  of  slack- 
ness in  the  yarn,  is  found  convenient 
when  buying  this  kind  of  yarn. 

Domet  is  made  on  a  roller  or  cam 
loom,  and  as  a  cloth  receives 

NO  FINISH,  EXCEPTING  THE  NAP. 
The  selling  width  of  the  cloth  is  about 
291/^  inches.  During  the  process  or 
napping,  a  domet  loses  a  small  percent- 
age of  the  filling  weight.  This  waste 
is  called  fly,  as  it  is  used  by  shoddy 
manufacturers  in  the  production  of 
heavy  backing  yarns. 

Warp  colors  used  in  domet  stripes: 
dark  blue,  light  blue,  light  brown,  pink 
and  light  green. 

Filling:  all  white  for  stripes,  and  in 
some  grades,  cotton  and  cotton  shoddy 
mixed  yarns  give  the  fabric  a  dark 
tone,  after  the  napping.  The  last- 
named  grade  is  used  extensively  as  a 
working  shirt  for  machinists,  as  it 
doesn't  show  the  soiled  places  very 
readily,  and  will  tear  easily  if  caught 
in  the  machinery. 

Warp  stripe  domet:  reed  800;  2  ends 
per  dent,  31%  inches,  l-22s  cotton  warp 
yarns,  36  picks. 

l-16s  cotton  filling,  11  turns  twis't 
(will  produce  good,  close  nap). 

Selling  width,  29^/^  inches. 

Plain  weave  on  four  harness;  drawn- 
in,  1,  2,  3,  4. 

Weight,  2.3  ounces,  about. 

Amount  of  filling  twist,  less  about 
15  per  cent,  will  give  good  results  in 
napping. 


DBDBaanB 

■DHDBaBD 
aBDBDBDB 
BDBaBDBa 
DBOBOBaB 
BDBDBDBn 
DBDBaBDB 
BDBDBaBQ 

Design 


DDCBDGDB 
nnBDDDBD 
DBDDDBnD 

BoaoBuaa 


Drawing-  in  Draft 


Carding   Particulars. 

The  raw  stock  used  for  these  goods 
should  be  American  of  about  1%  inch 
staple.  The  usual  plan  of  mixing  the 
cotton  is  followed  of  having  the  mix- 
ings as  large  as  possible,  but  no  other 
special  attention  need  be  given  to  it. 
At  the  pickers  the  only  special  fea- 
ture to  look  out  for  is 

THE   SPEED  OF  THE  BEATER. 

This  should  be  run  at  above  the  aver- 
age speed  because  the  cotton  used 
generally  contains  more  than  the  av- 
erage amount  of  dirt,  etc.,  found  in 
cotton.  The  weight  of  the  lap  at  the 
front  of  the  finisher  picker  should  be 
heavy.  At  the  card  the  only  special 
features  to  be  careful  of  are  the  set- 
tings. These  should  be  open  because 
of  the  weight  of  the  lap  put  in  at  the 
card  and  also  because  the  production 
of  this  machine  with  this  class  of 
goods  is  large.  The  most  special  at- 
tention given  to  this  class  of  goods  is 
at 

THE  DRAWING  FRixME, 

three  processes  being  the  usual  num- 
ber run.  The  most  important  points 
to  look  out  for  are  as  follows :  that  the 
settings  are  all  right,  the  top  leather 
rolls  are  properly  covered,  and  that 
they  have  no  channels  or  are  not  hol- 
lowed out  along  their  entire  length, 
that  the  top  rolls  are  kept  properly 
varnished,  that  the  stop  motions  are 
properly  adjusted,  and  lastly,  that  the 
condensing  or  large  front  calender 
rolls  are  set  so  that  the  proper 
pressure  is  brought  to  bear  on  the  cot- 
ton sliver  being  passed  between  them. 
It  may  be  just  as  well  to  say 

A  FEW  THINGS 

here  about  the  drawing  frame  which 
apply  not  only  to  the  class  of  cloth  un- 
der description,  but  also  to  all  cotton 
yarns  for  all  classes  of  work.  Too  lit- 
tle attention  is  given  to  the  drawing 
frame.  Just  because  it  is  one  of  the 
most  simply  constructed  machines 
used  in  the  card  room,  it  generally  re- 
ceives the  least  attention.  This  should 
not  be  the  case,  however,  because  the 
drawing  frame,  unless  properly  looked 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


i& 


after,  will  make  a  great  deal  of  dif- 
ference to  the  appearance  of  the  yarn 
made.  If  the  drawing  frame  is 
properly  looked  after  it  will  be  found 
that  the  roving  being  made  will  be  a 
great  deal  evener  than  if  the  drawing 
frames  are  left  to  look  after  them- 
selves. Particular  attention  should 
always  be  given  to  the 

DIFFERENT  STOP  MOTIONS 

to  see  that  they  are  doing  what  is  re- 
quired of  them.  It  will  be  seen  that  if 
only  one  stop  motion  in  a  head  does 
not  work  properly  and  allows  an  end 
to  pass  through  the  machine  without 
stopping  it,  the  resulting  finished 
yarn  is  going  to  be  lighter  at  that  cer- 
tain part  and  in  this  way  make  an 
uneven  yarn.  I  know  that  it  will  be 
said  that  the  drafts  and  doublings  at 
the  future  machines 

WILL  HELP  TO  OVERCOME 

this  defect,  but  if  the  adjustment  were 
made  at  the  drawing  frame  this  par- 
ticular defect  would  not  exist.  Per- 
haps a  good  thing  for  card-room  over- 
seers to  paste  in  their  hats  would  be, 
"Watch  your  drawing  frames,  first, 
last  and  always."  We  have  wandered 
somewhat  from  the  subject  under  de- 
scription and  will  conclude  the  carding 
end  of  it  by  saying  that  no  special 
points,  outside  of  the  ones  generally 
followed,  need  be  given  to  the  making 
of  the  roving.  A  great  deal  of  the  un- 
evenness  of  the  yarn,  if  any  exists,  is 
covered  up  because  the  cloth  is 
napped. 


Dyeing   Particulars. 

The  colors  in  the  fabric  illustrated 
can  be  dyed  in  the  yarn  or  raw  stock. 
The  dyeing  particulars  are  as  follows: 

GRAY. 

For  100  pounds  of  raw  stock  for  dark 
gray,  Cassella  Color  Co.: 

1st  bath:  15  pounds  immedial  black 
N.  G.;  4  ounces  immedial  yellow  D.; 
10  pounds  sodium  sulphide;  7  pounds 
soda  ash;  12  pounds  cryst.  Glauber's 
salt. 

2d  and  standing  bath:  7  pounds  im- 
medial black  N.  G. ;  1  ounce  immedial 
yellow  D.;  5  pounds  sodium  sulphide; 
3  pounds  soda  ash;  4  pounds  cryst. 
Glauber's  salt. 

Enter  stock,  raw  cotton,  at  the  boil, 
and  keep  at  200  degrees  F.  for  one 
hour. 

Wash  well  with  water  and  squeeze 
through  rollers,  and  repeat  operation 
of  washing  several  times,  till  cotton  is 
perfectly  clean. 


FOR  LIGHT  GRAY. 

1st  bath:  8  pounds  immedial  black 
N  G,  Cassella  Color  Co.;  3  ounces  im- 
medial yellow  D,  Cassella  Color  Co.; 
8  pounds  sodium  sulphide;  6  pounds 
soda  ash;  10  pounds  cryst.  Glaubet's 
salt. 

2d  and  standing  bath:  5  pounds  iia- 
medial  black  N  G;  2  ounces  immedial 
yellow  D;  5  pounds  sodium  sulphide; 
4  pounds  soda  ash;  5  pounds  crysi 
Glauber's  salt. 

Enter  stock  at  boil,  and  keep  at  200 
degrees  F.  for  one  hour. 

Wash  well,  as  with  darker  shade. 
The  immedial  colors  of  the  Cassella 
Color  Co.  are  absolutely  fast  to  wash- 
ing and  sunlight,  and  are  free  from 
sulphur,  so  that  there  is  not  the  dan 
ger  of  tendering  the  fibre  as  with  so 
many  of  the  sulphur  colors. 

The  immedial  colors  are  gradually 
replacing  the  direct  one-dip  colors 
which  have  had  so  long  a  run,  aud 
which  were  used  so  extensively  for  the 
last  10  years  or  more. 

The  immedial  colors  are  now  made 
into  blacks,  blues,  browns,  yellowr>, 
greens,  wines,  and  very  soon  there  will 
be  a  full  range  of  shades  made,  to 
match  all  colors  required  in  cotton 
goods.  The  immedial  blues  are  as  tast 
as  the  indigo  shades  so  long  used  for 
all  fast  colors. 

PINK. 

For  100  pounds  raw  stock,  cotton: 
20  pounds  Glauber's  salt;  2  pounds  sal 
soda;    5   ounces  diamine  rose  G    D 

Enter  at  boil  and  boil  one  hour. 
Wash  well  in  water. 

BLUE. 

For  100  pounds  raw  stock,  cotton;  20 
pounds  Glauber's  salt;  2  pounds  sal 
soda;  iy2  pounds  diamine  blue  B  X. 

Enter  at  boil  and  boil  one  houi\ 
Wash  well  in  water.  The  diamine  rose 
G  D  and  the  diamine  blue  B  X  are 
from  the  Cassella  Color  Co.  and  are 
very  level  dyeing  colors  and  very  fast 
to  light  and  washing. 

A  variety  of  colors,  of  course,  can  be 
used  in  the  dyeing  of  this  fabric. 


ZEPHYR  GINGHAM. 

Zephyr  gingham  is  the  finest  grade 
of  gingham  made,  and  is  a  light-weight 
cotton  faibric,  composed  of  l-40s  to  1- 
BOs  cotton  warp  and  filling  yarns. 

It  is  woven  with  either  the  nlain 
weave  or  a  small  all-over  dobby  effect. 
It  is  made  in  very  attractive  patterns 
by  using  good  fast  colors  in  warp  and 


16 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


filling,   and,   as  a   cloth,   has   splendid 
wearing  qualities. 

From 

TWO  TO  TEN  COLORS 
can  be  used  in  both  warp  and  filling, 
the  filling  colors  being  governed  by  the 
number  of  shuttles  the  loom  will  run, 
and  this  number  is  increaiSed  by  the  in- 
troduction of  fancy  colored,  printed 
yarns. 

Zephyr     gingham  is     made  up     into 


Zephyr  gingham. 

such  patterns  as  light  and  dark  tone, 
shaded  plaids,  corded  and  ribbed 
stripes,  small  checks  and  broad,  deli- 
cately colored  plaids,  having  a  random 
printed  yarn  coloring,  and  this  last 
combination  is  woven  on  a  dobby  loom, 
using  as  a  design  a  small  broken  twill 
arrangement.  The  effect  produced  is 
something  on  the  order  of  a  jacquard 
pattern. 

MIXED  COLOR  EFFECTS 
are   made  by   dressing   the   warp,    one 
end  white,     one  end  fancy     print,  for, 


Zephyr  gingham. 

say,  100  ends,  and  then  making  a  rib 
by  using  a  satin  weave  for  eight  or  ten 
ejids  of  a  dark  color,  such  as  black, 
blue  or  red  brown.  This  style  is  made 
in  stripes,  as  stated  above,  also  in 
plaids  by  using  all  white  filling  to  cross 
the  one  and  one  dressing  in  the  warp 
and  a  correspondingly  dark  colored  fill- 
ing squared  with  tihe  .s-atin  rib  in  the 
wary). 


CORDED  EFFECTS 

are  produced  by  drawing  in  2,  3,  4.  ends 
in  one    heddle  and     split,  and     this  is 


Cord  Cord 

oaaanaGDDanBGBnBaBaaBBLia 
BDaDaaaaaaaDaaBDBDBuaQaa 

BDaaBuaaBaaaaaaDaaaDGaaa  Design. 
aBDaaaaGGaGBcaDacaaBaaaa 
aaaaaGaaaGBCDGaGaGaGGGaa 
□aaaDacGGara^a"  aGBGaaBGa 
Baaaaaaa*  :■  -■...■zbjbgggbg 
DaDGaacG  :z--^-_,    -zgccggggg 

DGOnaGGG  u^i ^GGGGCGGGCGG 

DGGaaaGGacar^DDQCaaDGGGD 

DGaGGGGGGaCGGGGGGGGCGGCG 

naGBnGGGG«GGGBGGCBGGaaaa  Drawine-in- 
DGBLjaaBGaGaGaDGGBGCDa^aa  ■^^"^"•"s 

aaQOGaGaDGGiia  -caGGGBGDGa        draft 
BGDQaaGQaaaGGDaa  "-GaGGGca 

aDaGGGGGGaUGGGDGnGGGGGGa 
DGGGaODGaaaQGDaQGGDCGDGa 

Goaa  GaaaG^aaGoaa  GaaaGO  Reed  nlan. 


aaaaaaDaGi 


iGGaaDDCi 


Warp  cfTect 

aGBGBGacaaaaaGaaaaacaGBG 

G'GBGBGBiaaGBBBBanaGaGBGa 

nDBGBGHGBBBBBBBGBGBGaaBG 

GBGBGBGBBBaBGBaBGB  BGBGB  'Dp'^io'n 

BGBGBGBGBGBBBBaHB  BGBGBG  •^>:^^!="- 

GBGBGBGBBnBBBnGBGBGaGBGa 

BGBGHGBGBABGBIOBaGaGBGBG 

GaGBGBGBGBBMBHailGBGBGBGB 

GJGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGCD 

aGGGGGGGGGCaGGGGaGGGaGCa 

L  GGGGG  ^GGGGGGGGGl  GGGGCGG 

C  OnGUGaGGCaaGGGGDCGGCaDa 

L  DQ  .GCDGGG  GaUGeGi  GGGGGG 

G  GGnaGnGGDaaaaGGG..GuGGG 

1  'GGD   aDGGaGCBGGG^LGGQQa 
GaaCQaGCaaGGBGQGGLG  DGGG  T,„.,„.:_„  ;,, 

nDaaDnGGGGaaGGGGCGcaaaDa  -Lraw  ing-in- 

GGGDGGGaDGBJGGGaaGaQ  GGD     Hr-aft 

GaGQnGGaGBGGGGGQaGDGnGan    aran. 

GGGGGCGGBCGGGGLGGl^G  g  gg 
GGGBG  GBGGGGGaGGCGGBGGCB 

aGBGGaaGaoGaGGGGGaaGaGBG 

GBaaGBGGaGGCGQGQGiaG^Gaaj 

aaaaaa  DGGGGGaaQBGaGaa  a 

QaGGGGaGGGGGGaGDDDGaaGaa 
GD,  DGaGCnGGGGanaGGGGG^GD  ' 

DGaaGGBBGGGGBaBaaQBBGaaa  Reed  plan 
an__BBaGiiHan_^^GGaaG^BBGG  -^'"-"^"  van. 


Fancy  Dobby  Weave  Zephyr. 

BGBGBGBGBGBBBGGG 
GaDBGaGBGaaBGBGa 
BBBGBGaGBaaaaGGG 
BBBBGBBBGBBBGB  G 
BBBGBBBGBBBGBGGG 
GBGBaBBBCBGBGBGU  Dp^io-n 
BGBGBBBGBGBGBGGG  ■L't^t^'oH- 
DBGBBBGB  ^BGBCBGG 
BBBGBBaGBBBGB  GG 
DBGBBBGBB  aBBGBGG 

BGBGBGBBBBBGBGQG  Harness 

GBBBGBGBBBBBGBGG 

BBBBBGBGBBBGBGGG   cham 

BBBBGBGBGBGBGBGG 

BBBBBGBGBGBGBGGG  exactly 

GBBBGBGBGBGBGBGG    ...  „ 

BGBGBGBGBGBGBGGD    like 

GBQBGBDB^BGBGBGG  j„^;„„ 

BGBGBGBBBBBGBGaa  design. 

BBGBGBBBBBBBLBGG 

BBBGaBBBBBBBCGGG 

BBBBBBBBGBBBGGGG 

BBBBBBBGBGBBBGGG 

GBBBBBGBGBGBuBGG 

BGBBBGBGBGBGBGDD 

GBGBGBGBGBGBGBGO 

GBGBBGBGBGBGBBGD 

BBBBGBGBGBGBGBGG 

GGGGGGGGGGaaCDGa 

QaDGGGGGaGDGGGan 

GaDGGGGaaGGQLBGG 

GGGGGGaGGGGGBaGG 

DGGGGGGGGGGBGGGQ 

□GGGGGGGaDBOGGOa 

aGGGGGGGGBGGGGGG 

DDDGGGGGBGCGGaaG 

DDDGGGGBGGGDGGGa  T,_„_,i„„  :„ 

GUDaGGBGaaaaaDDD  J-rawina-in- 


draft. 


DaaGGBGaDGDaaaaG 
DGGGBaa  caDGGcaa 
aaaBDDDGGcaDDGGa 
DnBDGaaaaaDaQGDn 
QBaaaQncaaaaDDDG 

BGDaaDDDDQanGGDa 

DGaDGDaDcaGDaGaD 
nnDDDQanDaDGGcaa 

GGBBOGBBaGBBGCVa  Pppfl    nln  n 

BBDCBBGGBBaaBBJjj  t>.eea  pian. 


squared  in  the  filling  by  using  a  cor- 
respondingly heavy  thread,  as,  for  in- 
stance, 3  ends  l-4ns  warp  in  one  heddle 
and    1   pick   of   3-40s    in    filling.     This 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


1? 


would    require    such    a    loom    as    the 
Knowleis  4x4  box  dobby  loom. 

For  a  roller  loom,  using  plaiu  weave, 
and  making  a  cord,  draw  warp  in,  as 
stated  above,  or  make  two  cords  side  by 
side  by  drawing  in  two  ends  per  heddle 
and  four  ends  iu  split,  and  square  this 
by  two  picks,  each  of  l-20s  cotton  fill- 
ing. 

Zephyr  gingham  can  be  woven  on 
any  roller  loom.  Of  this  style  loom  the 
4x1  box  is  the  more  suitable.  For  more 
elaboraite  filling  patterns  there  is  the 
Crompton  6x1  box  gingham  loom,  and 
for  fancy  weave  effect  take  a  loom 
having  a  spring  bottom  dobby  motion 
attaxihe^. 

COLORS  FOR  ZEPHYR. 

Black,  light  blue,  dark  blue,  light 
browTi,  pink,  red,  tan,  ecru,  canary, 
orange,  new  blue,  old  gold.  Print 
yarns  can  be  obtained  of  almost  any 
color  desired. 

A  good  grade  of  zephyr  gingham  is 
made  as  follows: 

Reed  1,500,  two  ends  per  split,  29 
inches  wide,  80  picks;  weight,  two 
ounces  about;  l-50s  cotton  warp  and 
fillins:;  finish  27  inches. 


COLOR 

EFFECT. 

V 

t'arp 

pattern. 

4  Brown. 

4  Blue. 

8  Brown. 

6  Blue. 

6  Brown. 

8  Blue. 

4  Brown. 

8  Blue 

1  White 

cord 

equals 

3   ends. 

8  Blue. 

2  White. 

1  White 

cord 

equals 

3  ends. 

2  White. 

4  Blue. 

4  White. 

1   White 

cord 

equals 

3  ends. 

4  White. 

2  Blue. 

8  White. 

1  White  Cord  equals 

3  ends. 

S  White. 

2  Blue. 

4  White. 

1  White 

cord  equals 

3  ends. 

4  White. 

4  Blue. 

2  White. 

1  White  cord 

equals 

3  ends. 

2  White. 

8  Blue. 

1  White 

cord 

equals 

3  ends. 

8  Blue. 

4  Brown, 

8  Blue. 

SHADED   PLAID. 
Filling   same    as    warp   pattern. 

Pattern  continued. 
G  Brown: 
6  Blue. 
8  Brown. 
4  Blue. 
4  Brown. 
2  Black. 
4  Brown. 

1  White  cord  equals  3  ends. 
4  Brown. 
4  Black. 
4  Brown. 

1  White  cord  equals  3  ends. 
4  Brown. 

2  Black. 

The  finish  consists  of  sprinkling  and 
of  running  cloth  throug'h  very  thin  siz- 
ing, after  which  it  is  temtered  and  cal- 
endered. 


Carding  Particulars. 

Various  grades  of  cotton  as  well  as 
different  lengths  of  staple  are  used  for 
the  class  of  goods  described.  The 
length  of  staple  used  for  the  former 
goo'ds  is  about  l^^  inches  and  generally 
American  cotton  is  used.  The  mix- 
ings should  be  as  large  as  possible  so 
as  to  obtain  an  even  yarn.  It  will  be 
at  once  seen  that  if  small  mixings  are 
used  there  will  be  some  little  differ- 
ence in  each  mixing  and  just  this  little 
difference  will  show  up  in  the  finished 
yarn.  This  applies  not  only  to  this 
mixing  for  the  class  of  goods  described 
but  to  aill  mixings  foT  all  goods,  and 

THE   MIXING 

of  cotton  is  one  of  the  most  particular 
points  of  carding,  because  if  different 
lengths  of  staple  are  allowed  to  be 
mixed  together,  it  is  bound  to  cause 
trouble  in  addition  to  uneven  j-arn. 
Every  bale  of  cotton  should  be  sepa- 
rately stapled  before  it  is  allowed  to  be 
put  into  the  mixing,  and  if  the  staple 
is  longer  or  shorter  than  the  cotton 
already  mixed,  it  should  be  put  one 
side. 

The  cotton  should  be  run  through 
openers  "and  two  processes  of  pickers, 
although  a  great  many  mills  use  three 
processes;  but  all  the  newer  plants  be- 
ing built  have  only  two  processes  of 
pickers.    The 

SPEED  OF  THE  BEATER 
should  be  about  1,050  revolutions  per 
minute  for  the  opener  anid  1,500  rev- 
olutions per  minute  for  the  breaker 
and  L450  revolutions  per  minute  for 
the  finisher,  a  12  to  13  ounce  lap  be- 
ing made  at  the  finisher  picker. 


18 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


The  card  should  have  closer  settings 
than  for  the  cloth  described  last  week. 
Spocial  attention  should  be  given  to 
the  setting  of  the  back  plate  to  the 
licker-in.  If  this  plate  is  set  too  close 
the  cotton  will  be  broken  and  if  set  too 
far  away  will  cause  bunches  tO'  come 
through.  It  is  always  just  as  well, 
when  setting  a  card  for  new  length  of 
stock  or  changing  over,  to  sample  the 
cotton,  both  before  it  enters  the  card 
and  after  it  leaves  it,  to  compare  the 
two  staples  and  to  see  if  they  are  of 
the  same  length.  A  good  weight  per 
yard  for  sliver  at  the  card  for  this 
class  of  goods  is  50  grains.  On  the 
former  grades  of  thie  goods  under  de- 
scriotion 

THE  COTTON  IS  COMBED. 

This,  of  course,  meams  extra  expense 
because  of  the  extra  machines  used, 
but  it  also  makes  the  yarn  evener  be- 
cause at  the  comber  all  the  short  fibres 
are  taken  out,  leaving  all  the  fibres  of 
the  same  length.  When  combers  are 
used  only  two  processes  of  drawing 
are  rega.rded,  but  when  the  combers 
are  not  used  for  this  class  of  goods 
then  three  processes  of  drawing  are 
used.  For  this  class  of  goods  only  15 
per  cent  waste  should  be  taken  out  at 
the  comber. 

At  the  speeders  or  fly  frames  the 
drawing  sliver  is  put  through  the  slub- 
ber, 1st  intermediate,  2d  intermediate 
and  fine  frames,  the  finished  hank  rov- 
ing ranging  from  8  to  12  hank.  In  the 
samples  under  description  the  hank 
used  would  be  about  12.  Watch  the 
settings  of  the  rolls  at  the  fiy  frames 
and  see  that  all  your  frames  are  set 
alike.  These  settings  sihould  be  looked 
after  all  the  time  and  should  lapping  or 
bunching  occur  it  is  a  pretty  good  in- 
dioa'tion  that  something  is  wrong 
with  your  roll  settings.  If  many 
frames  are  being  run  on  the  same 
stock. 

IT  IS  VERY  IMPORTANT 

to  have  all  the  change  gears  the  same, 
especially  the  draft  gear.  It  some- 
times happens  that  the  wrong  draft 
gear  will  be  put  on  one  frame  and  the 
result  is  that  the  yarn  is  delivered  to 
the  ring  spinning  room  or  mule  room 
uneven.  It  will  also  cause  a  great  deal 
of  trouble  in  sizing  the  yarns.  This 
trouble  is  greater  if  the  wrong  gear  is 
put  on  one  of  the  2d  intermediate 
frames  because  the  draft  gear  on  these 
machines  is  seldom  changed  and  you 
might  not  look  here  for  the  trouble 
for  a  long  time  and  until  considerable 
annoyance  had  been  caused. 


Dyeing   Particulars. 

The  colors  in  the  fabric  illustrated 
are  dyed  in  the  yarn.  The  dyeing  par- 
ticulars are  as  folloiws: 

LIGHT    TAN. 

For  100  pounds  yarn:  12  ounces  im- 
medial  yellow  D  pat.;  2  ounces  imme- 
dial  olive  B,  pat.;  7  ounces  immediai 
cutch  G,  pat;  5  pounds  sodium  sul- 
phide; 10  pounds  cryst.  Glauber's  salt; 
3  pounds  soda  ash.  Enter  yarn  at  boil 
and  boil  one  hour.  Wash  well  with  two 
or  three  waters. 

ECRU. 

For  100  pounds  yarn:  6  ounces  im- 
mediai yellow  D,  pat.;  1  ounce  imme- 
diai olive  B,  pat.;  4  ounces  immediai 
cutch  G,  pat.;  5  pounds  sodium  sul- 
phide; 10  pounds  cryst.  Glauber's  salt; 
3  pounds  soda  ash.  Enter  yarn  at  boil. 
Boiil  one  hour.  Wasih  well  with  two  or 
three  clean  waters. 

LIGHT  BROWN. 

For  100  pounds  yarn:  8  ounces  im- 
mediai brown  B,  pat.;  1  pound  4  ounces 
immediai  cutch  O,  pat.;  5  pounds  so- 
dium sulphide;  10  pounds  cryst.  Glau- 
ber's salt;  3  pounds  soda  ash.  Enter 
yarn  at  boil,  and  boil  one  hour.  Wash 
well  with  two  or  three  waters. 
OLD   GOLD. 

For  100  pounds  yarn:  2  per  cent  im- 
mediai yellow  D,  pat.;  6  per  cent  so- 
dium sulphide;  12  per  cent  cryst.  Glau- 
ber's salt;  3  per  cent  soda  asih.  Enter 
yarn  at  Ijodl.  Boil  one  hour.  Wash 
well  with  two  or  three  waters. 
PINK. 

For  100  pounds  yarn:  6  ounces  dia- 
mine rose  G  D,  pat.;  2  pounds  sal  soda; 
25  pounds  Glauber's  salt.  Enter  at 
boil.  Boil  one  hour.  Wash  well  in 
water. 

NEW  BLUE. 

For  100  pounds  yam:  3  per  cent  im- 
mediai sky  blue  powdered  cone;  5  per 
cent  sodium  sulphide;  10  per  cent  cryst. 
Glauber's    salt;  3  per    cent    so'da  ash. 

After    treated     with     ^^     per     cent 
biohrome    potash;   ^^     per  cent    blue- 
stone.    Wash  well  with  water. 
LIGHT  BLUE. 

For  100  pounds  yarn:  1^4  per  cent 
immediai  indoue  B,  pat.;  l^^  per  cent 
immediai  sky  blue  powdered  cone;  5 
pounds  sodium  sulpihide;  10  pounds 
cryst.  Glauber's  salt;  3  pounds  soda 
ash.  Enter  at  'boil.  Boil  one  hour. 
Wash  well  with  water. 

DARK  BLUE. 

For  100  poninds  yarn:  5  pounds  im- 
mediai    indone    blue,    3    B,    pat.;     10 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY.   ^ 


19 


pounds    sodium    sulphide;     15   pounds 
cryst.  Glauber's  salt;   5     pounds    soda 
asih.    Enter    at  boil.      Boil  one    hour. 
Wash  well  with  water. 
ORANGE. 

For  100  pounds  yarn:  5  pounds  im- 
medial  orange  C,  pat.;  8  pounds  so- 
dium sulphide;  15  pounds  cryst.  Glau- 
ber's saJt;  5  pounds  soda  ash.  Enter 
at  boil.  Boil  one  hour.  Wasih  well  in 
two  or  three  waters. 

BLACK. 

For  100  pounds  yarn,  1st  bath:  20 
pounds  immedial  black  N  N  cone;  12 
pounds  sodium  sulphide;  20  pounds 
cryst.  Glatvbeir's  salt;  5  pounds  soda 
ash. 

2d  bath:  10  pounds  immedial  black 
N  N  cone;  8  pounds  sodium  sulphide; 
15  pounds  cryst.  Glauber's  salt;  4 
pounds  soda  ash. 

Enter  at  boil.  Boil  one  hour.  Wash 
well  in  two  or  three  cleam  waters. 


The  Finishing. 

In  the  finishing  process  use:  4  to  8 
ounces  cornstarch,  4  to  8  ounces  co- 
coanut  oil,  white  softening,  1  gallon 
water.  Mix  cold,  boil  half  an  hour. 
Starch  through  mangle.  Run  over 
drying  cylinders.  Sprinkle,  and  cal- 
ender through  light  calender.  After 
starching,  the  goods  are  sometimes 
dried  over  the  tenter  frame  to  keep 
the  pattern   straight  across  the  piece. 


CRINOLINE, 


Crinoline  is  a  fabric  composed  of 
cotton  warp,  horsehair  filling  or  al! 
cotton  yarns.  It  is  sold  in  varying 
widths,  and  is  used  by  tailors  and 
dressmakers  in  stiffening  clothing. 

It  is  a  cheap  cloth  of  low  texture 
and  simple  construction, 
THE  DISTINGUISHING  FEATURE, 
being  the  stiff  finish  with  either  a  dull 
or  highly  glazed  face  on  the  cloth. 
Crinoline,  having  a  horsehair  fill- 
ing, requires  a  loom  of  special  con- 
struction to  handle  the  hair,  a.<»  it  is 
hung  in  a  neat  bundle  on  the  end  of 
the  loom,  the  hair  being  of  a  uniform 
length  and  color,  generally  black;  the 
mechanism  on  the  loom  drawing  a 
strand  of  hair  from  the  bunch  and 
placing  it  in  the  shed  formed  by  the 
harness.  A  herring-bone  twill  weave 
is  used  in  this  grade  of  the  cloth. 
Practically 


THE  SAME  EFFECT 

can  be  produced  by  using  a  glazed 
warp  thread  and  a  cotton  filling. 
The  glazing  process  is  to  take  the 
cotton  warp  thread,  and  after 
charging  heavily  with  a  solution  of 
sizing,  the  yarns  are  run  through  su- 
per-heated   cylinders    and    rollers,    the 


Crinoline. 

effect  being  a  highly  polished  ^urfacfl" 
to  the  yarn. 

Crinoline  composed  of  regular  cot- 
ton yams  is  stiffened  by  weighting 
the  fabric  with  sizing;  the  weight  of 
the  size,  in  some  cases,  equals  20  per 
cent  of  that  of  the  yarns  used  in  con- 
struction. 

Crinoline  is  made  generally  on  the 
roller  or  cam  loom  of  l-20s  to  l-26s 
cotton  warp  and  filling  yarn,  using 
25  to  40  ends  and  picks  per  inch,  the 
cloth  losing  about  10  per  cent  of  its. 
width  from  loom  to  finished  width. 
The  warps  are  sized  6  to  10  per  cent 
and  the  woven  cloth  made  to  absorb 
15  to  20  per  cent  of  its  weight,  during 
sizing  operation. 

TO   FINISH  CRINOLINE 
means  to     stiffen  it.       The     cloth     ii». 


auc  -auau 

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mamamamu 

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BDDDaDDa 


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ncDGBaacnn  / 

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Xo.  1.  No.  2.  No.  3. 

1.  Crinoline.    Plain   Weave. 

2.  Crinoline.    Herring-bone  Weave. 

3.  Haircloth;  5  harness  satin  filling  ef- 
fect. 

therefore  taken  direct  from  the  loont. 
to  the  size  tubs,  and  after  this  opera- 
tion 'it  is  run  through  the  cylinders 
to  dry  it,  after  which  the  glaze  finish 
is  produced  by  the  action  of  the  heat- 


20 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


ed  rollers  in  the  calender  machine. 
The  cloth  is  then  rolled  or  lapped,  to 
whatever  size  bolt  desired,  Uje^/bolt- 
ed  pressed  in  plate  press,  aad  ,  the 
crinoline  is  ready  for  the  packing 
cases. 

Crinoline  is  usually  made  In  eiiher 
solid  black  or  cotton  in  the  gray. 

CRINOLINE. 

Plain  weave;  reed  700;  1  end  per  split; 
27 V^  inches  reed;  l-26s  cotton  warp 
and  filling;  36  picks;  20  per  cent  size 
in  finish. 

Color,  black;  weight,  1.9  ounces; 
10  square  inches,  weight  15.1  grains, 
:fiaished  weight;  16  square  inches, 
weight  12.1  grains  after  sizing  is  re- 
jnoved. 

Horsehair  is  used  in  manufactur- 
jng  haircloth,  a  fabric  used  for  fur- 
niture covering,  the  weave  being  a 
iilling  effect  satin  (generally  about 
:five  harness),  to  throw  hair  on  the 
face  of  the  cloth.  These  satin 
weaves  permit  of  about  15  per  cent 
more  ends  and  picks  than  are  used  in 
an  ordinary  weave.  This  is  due  to  the 
long  floats  in  either  warp  or  filling 
effect  satins. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Although  the  yarns  used  to  make 
crinoline  are  what  are  called  coarse 
yarns  it  must  not  be  thought  that 
they  may  be  neglected  in  any  way  in 
the  carding  and  spinning,  because 
coarse  yarns  should  not  be  thrown  to- 
gether any  more  than  the  finer  counts 
of  yarns.  We  should  not  turn  our  at- 
tention from  the  carding  and  spinning 
of  coarse  yarns  and  let  them  be  run 
through  the  different  machines  until 
the  required  count  is  made,  but  we 
should  give  special  attention  to  the 
production  end  of  these  yams  as  it  is 
here  we  can  make  the  best  showing. 
In  coarse  counts  of  yarns  it  should  be 
our  aim  to  get  as  large  a  production 
from  each  machine  as  possible  and 

NOT    OVERLOAD     THE    MACHINE, 

and  at  the  same  time  produce  as  good 
a  finished  yarn  as  possible.  Another 
thing,  when  making  coarse  counts  of 
yarn  we  are  not  required  to  take  out 
as  large  a  percentage  of  waste  as 
when  we  are  making  the  firmer 
counts,  and  while  enough  waste 
should  be  taken  out  so  that  the  yarn 
will  not  be  bunchy,  still  it  will  be 
at  once  seen  that  the  settings  will 
not  be  as  "close"  as  when  the 
firmer  counts  of  yarn  are  being  made. 
A  low-grade,    short-staple    class    of 


cotton  is  generally  used  for  making 
the  class  of  goods  under  description. 
Sometimes  this  is  used  straight  but 
some  mills  use  waste  from  the  comber 
in  the  mixing  as  well  as  the  low-grade 
cotton.    Generally 

TWO  PROCESSES 

of  picking  and  opening  are  used,  the 
speed  of  the  beater  being  around  1,500 
revolutions  per  minute,  the  beats  per 
inch  being  between  42  and  45.  The 
beater  is  run  at  a  higher  speed  on 
short  stapled  cotton  for  two  reasons: 
first,  because  it  is  necessary  to  run  it 
at  a  higher  rate  of  speed  in  order  to 
get  all  the  dirt  out;  and  second,  be- 
cause it  can  be  run  at  a  higher  speed 
because  there  is  not  so  much  liability 
of  making  neps,  for  the  reason  that 
the  staple  is  short  and  does  not  ball 
up  as  easily  as  the  long-staple  cot- 
tons. 

The  weight  of  the  whole  lap  at  the 
finisher  picker  is  about  40  pounds,  or 
about  141/^  ounces  to  the  yard  in 
length. 

THE  CARDS 

are  set  so  that  the  tops  are  about  12- 
1000  of  an  inch  away  from  the  cylin- 
der wire  (coarse  wire  being  used  on 
both  cylinder  and  doffer  fillets).  The 
licker-in  knives  are  set  as  close  as 
possible  witnout  touching  so  that  they 
may  throw  out  as  much  dirt  as  pos- 
sible. The  draft  of  this  machine 
should  be  about  100,  the  production 
from  750  to  1000  pounds  for  this  class 
of  goods  and  the  weight  of  sliver  per 
yard  at  the  front  about  65  grains  per 
yard.  The  ones  in  charge  of  the  cards 
should  see  that  the  cards  are  properly 
ground  because  when  running  large 
productions  of  low-grade  cotton  the 
wire  on  the  fillet  becomes  dull  and 
does  not  perform  its  duty. 

TWO  PROCESSES  OF  DRAWING 
are  used,  generally  6  ends  up.  As 
the  weight  per  yard  of  sliver  is  heavy 
at  the  drawing  frame  for  this  class 
of  goods,  a  point  to  look  out  for  is  to 
see  that  the  weights  attached  to  the 
top  rolls  are  sufficient  to  hold  them 
down  so  that  they  will  not  jump.  The 
weight  of  the  sliver  at  the  point  of 
the  finisher  drawing  should  be  about 
75  grains  and  the  speed  of  the  front 
roll  about  400  revolutions  per  minute; 
the  hank  roving  at  the  slubbers 
about  .40;  at  the  first  intermediate 
fly  frame  1.40  and  at  the  second  inter- 
mediate 3.75  to  4.25  hank.  From  the 
second  intermediate  frame  the  roving 
goes  to  the  spinning  frame,  where  it  is 
spun  into  the  required  yarn,  or  from 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


21 


20s  to  26s,  being  used  for  this  class  of 
goods,  i.e.,  crinolines. 


Dyeing   Particulars. 

Crinoline  linings  are  generally 
dyed  with  a  cheap  logwood  black. 

Make  up  a  solution  of  logwood  ex- 
tract at  6  degrees  Tw.  Add  common 
wood  acid,  6  degrees  Tw.,  1  pint  acid, 
1  gallon  logwood,  6  degrees  Tw.  Run 
through  two-box  machine,  pieces  run- 
ning into  liquor  8  to  10  times,  and 
through  nip  of  two  rubber  rollers, 
liquor  at  the  boil.  Dry  on  cylinder 
drying  machine,  and  run  through 
chrome  bath  at  l^  pound  bichromate 
soda  to  1  gallon  water,  and  run 
through  a  steaming  box  to  develop 
the  color.  Wash  well  in  water.  Starch, 
%  pound  dextrin,  1  gallon  water. 
Boil  the  starch  up  for  one  hour  before 
starching.  Dry  on  cylinders  or  on 
tenter  frames,  as  required.  Some 
crinoline  linings  are  calendered  in 
friction  calender,  and  afterwards  em- 
bossed on  embossing  machine  with  a 
slash  pattern. 

Some  crinoline  linings  are  starched 
by  hand  in  the  tub,  and  stretched  on 
a  s tenter  frame  and  dried  on  the 
frame. 


DAMASK  FABRICS. 


The  name  danaask  is  technically  ap- 
plied to  certain  classes  of  fabrics,  rich- 
ly decorated  with  figures  of  foliage, 
fruits,  scrolls  and  other  ornamental 
patterns,  usually  of  a  large  and  elabo- 
rate character. 

The  weaves  usually  employed  are 
twillsC  mos'tly  satin)  and  the  figures 
In  the  fabric  are  made  by  alternately 
exchanging  warp  for  weft  surface  or 
vice  versa. 

The  materials  employed  vary  accord- 
ing to  the  purpose  to  which  the  fabrics 
are  to  be  applied.  In  the  manufacture 
of  upholstery  oloth  for  hangings  and 
furniture  covering,  silk  or  worsted  is 
used,  while  for  tablecovers,  towels,  nap- 
kins, etc.,  linen  is  generally  employed, 
except  in  the  cheapest  grades,  when 
cotton  is  the  material  used. 

The  name  was  derived  from  the  city 
of  Damascus,  when  that  city  was  a 
centre  for  the  production  of  textile  fab- 
rics, and  originally  was  applied  only  to 
silken  fabrics,  whose  designs  were  very 
elaborately  woven  in  colors  and  often 
with  gold  thread. 

About  the  twelfth  century  the  above- 
mentioned  city,  even  then  long  cele- 
brated for  the  production  of  its  looms, 


so  far  outstripped  all  other  places  for 
beauty  of  design,  that  her  silken  tex- 
tiles were  in  demand  everywhere,  and 
thus,  as  often  happens,  traders  fastened 
the  name  of  Damascen  or  Damask  upon 
every  silken  fabric  richly  wrought  and 
curiously  designed,  no  matter  whether 
it  came  or  not  from  Damascus. 

In  order  to  explain  the  modus  oper- 
andi for  the  production  of  damask  in 
this  country,  suppose  we  place  our- 
selves in  the  position  of  a  public  de- 
signer, whose  specialty  is  the  designing 
of  patterns  for  such  fabrics. 
THE  SKETCH. 

The  first  step  in  the  operation  is  to 
prepare  a  dozen  or  more  sketches, 
which  are  to  be  shown  to  manufactur- 
ers to  take  their  choice.  A  specimen  of 
such  is  illustrated  at  Fig.  1  (reduced), 
the  original  of  which  is  drawn  on  ordi- 
nary  tracing  paper,  the  exact  size,  as  it 
will  appear  in  the  cloth. 

This  design  or  sketch  is  to  be  made 
into  a  damask  tablecover,  having  50 
threads  warp  and  44  picks  weft  per 
inch,  the  figure  of  which  is  to  be  a  5- 
leaf  4 — 1  satin  twill  (warp  face)  and  the 
ground  a  5-leaf  1 — 4  satin  twill  (weft 
face) . 

PROPER    DESIGN    PAPER. 

The  next  step  to  be  taken  is  to  se- 
lect the  proper  designing  paper, the  size 
of  which, that  is,  the  number  of  rectang- 
les, warp  and  weft, in  each  large  square, 
must  be  in  the  exact  proportion  to  the 
number  of  threads  (warp)  and  picks 
(weft)  in  one  inch  of  the  finished  cloth. 
The  mode  of  figuring  is  after  the  fol- 
lowing manner: 

Paper  for  warp  ruled  eight  rectangles 
per  large  square;  paper  for  weft  ruled 
in  the  same  ratio  to  eight  as  44  is  to  50. 

Operation:  x  :  8  :  :  44  :  50;  there- 
fore 44x8  equals  352  divided  by  50 
equals  7.04,  answer.  7.04  is  near  enough 
to  call  it  7;  therefore,  8x7  is  the  proper 
size  of  design  paper  required. 
TIE-UP. 

Then  the  tie-up  must  be  considered, 
which  in  the  present  instance  will  be 
a  eOO-hook,  with  the  tie-up  as  illus- 
trated at  Fig.  2  French  system — 
point  for  border,  and  straight  throngh 
for  body,  in  six  divisions. 

The  next  process  is  to  enlarge  the  de- 
sign as  it  appears  in  the  sketch,  so  that 
one  repeat  will  exactly  fit  on  600  rec- 
tangles (warp)  of  the  designing  paper 
selected. 

That  portion  of  the  border  shown  at 
A,  in  conformity  with  the  tie-up  should 
occupy  the  first  15  squares  or  120  rec- 
tangles; that  shown  at  B  the  next  15 
squares  or  120  rectangles;     that    por- 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


tion  shown  at  C  is  not  required  on  the 
design  paper,  because  it  is  a  repetition 
of  that  part  shown  at  A,  but  simply  re- 
versed. 

For  the  body  of  the  design  shown  at 
D,  45  squares  or  360  rectangles  will  be 


thraads  in  one  repeat  of  weave  (satin) 
will  not  divide  into  308  evenly,  310 
must  be  taken  (310  divided  by  5  equals 
62).  Therefore  the  design  will  occupy 
600  rectangles  (warp)  times  310  rec- 
tangles (weft). 

I 


Portion   A  =  15  sq.  X  8  =  120  rectangles       >  „    ^ 
Portinn   R  -  ,5  =„    X  8  =  120  rectanlles      l^ord 


^Body. 


required,  which  will  complete  the  600 
hooks  of  the  machine.  Summing  them 
up  they  will  be  as  follows: 

Portion   A  =  15  sq. 
Portion   B  =  15  sq. 

Portion  D  =  45  sq.  X  8  =  360  rectangles 

600  rectangles      ^ 

In  order  to  ascertain  how  many 
squares  or  rectangles  the  design  will 
occupy  weft-wise  the  sketch  must  be 
measured,  which  in  this  case  happens 
to  be  seven  inches.  Therefore  44  picks 
per  inch  times  7  inches  equals  308 
rectangles;  but  as  5,    the    number    of 


PAINTING  IN  THE  DESIGN.^  "^ 

After  the  design  is  transferred  to  the 
design  paper,  the  next  process  is  to 
paint  in  the  weave,  in  the  following 
manner,  or  as  shown  by  a  portion  of 
the  design,  taken  from  sketch  at  E,  and 
illustrated  by  Fig.  3. 

1.  Paint  in  the  figure  in  solid  red 
(Vermillion  or  scarlet  lake),  keeping 
well   within  the  lines. 

2.  Paint  in  the  1 — 4  satin  twill  in  the 
ground,  running  the  twill  toward  the 
right. 

3.  Paint  in  the  4—1  satin  twill  in  the 


24 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


figure  by  using  black  paiint  over  the 
red.     Twill   to   the  left. 

Tn  joining  the  ground  and  figure 
twills  great  care  must  be  exercised  so 
as  to  effect  a  clear  outline  between 
figure  and  ground,  which  is  done  by 
the  following  method: 

Where  it  is  possible  to  bring  a  riser 
Cblack)  of  the  ground  beside  a  sinker 
Cwhite)  in  the  figure  weave  or  vice 
versa,  it  must  be  done  and  in  some 
cases,  where  the  risers  and  sinkers  will 
not  join,  it  is  well  to  alter  the  weaves 
slightly  so  as  to  effect  it;  and  where 
it  is  impossible  to  do  this,  then  the 
weaves  of  each  must  not  be  extended 


border  join  perfectly  with  that  of  the 
body;  and  this  is  done  by  carefully  ex- 
aimining  the  tie-up  so  as  to  ascertain 
which  warp  threads  will  join  each 
other  in  the  cloth  and  take  steps  to 
make  a  perfect  juncture. 

In  this  particular  instance,  warp 
thread  No.  1,  which  is  the  first  of  the 
border,  is  in  juxtaposition  with  warp 
thread  No.  241,  which  is  the  first  of 
the  body.  (See  Tie-up,  Fig.  2.)  There- 
fore the  satin  twill  of  the  body,  com- 
mencing with  'warp  thread  No.  241, 
should  continue,  without  a  break,  the 
satin  twill  of  the  border  finished  at 
warp  thread    No.  1. 


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BaaBGBaBBBBGGGBBflBBGBBBBBBGCBCCCCICCDCBGCCCBG 
BaGBBBBGaaJGaaBaaCBBBBCBBGCCCClCCCCBCCGLBC  CLD 

naBBaaaaGGaaaBaaBBBBaBBBOcrBCGQCBCGGGBGCcciic  d 

BBaGBaBaaGBBaGBBBaGBBBGCBCGCClQCCCBCCCOCCCCB 
BGBBBGGGBBBGBBBBGBBBBOGGL.CBCCCCBQCLCBCCGCIC  CD 
BBBBGGGaBGBBBBaBaBBBBGaBCCCCKCCCr>i:CLCBCC'CClD 
BBGGGBBaBBBBaBBBBGBBCaaCCBCCt  CBCCCC  BCGCCBCCGG 
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gGGBBBBBGBBBBaBBBBBaaGGGBCrCCBircGCBCCC  CBCCCC  B 
gGBBHBGBBBBGBBBBGBBGGBGGCGBGCCCBCCC  CBCC  C  :  BC  CD 
DBBBGBBBBaBBBBnBBBGGGD'  BGrDCBCCCCBC  CCCBCCCCBC 
■B JBBBBaBBBBaBBBBGaaBnGGCBCDDCBCCCrBCCCCBCCDG 
GBBBBGBBBBGBBBBBGBD  CGBGCGGBCCCCBCCCr  BCCCCBCD 
BBBGBBBBaBBBBBBGaDGBrCGGBGCCCBCCCCBCCCCBCCCCB 
BGBBBBaBBBBaBBGGBGGGCBGnGGBnGCCBCCCCBCCCCBI.Ca 
BBBBGBBBBaBBBGGGGGBGDnCBCCCCBCCrCBCCCCBCCCCBD 
BBaBBBBaBBBaOGGB  GGnBGDGCBCGC  CBCCCCBCCCCBCCCD 
DBBBBaBBBBDaBGGGGBannDBaDGCBrCCCBCCCCBCCCCBCD 
■BBGBBBBGanaanBGGaaBDDnnBaGDCBCCGCBGDCCBCCCr B 
BGBBBnBGDGaBnaGGBnGa-BaDaGBGCDGBCCCCBCCCCBCCG 
BBBBBnGGBnGGGBGaGnBaGnGBn^GCBGCCCBCCCCBCCC  C  BG 
■BBnGBGnGGBmOaBDnGG-DanCBCGCGBCCCCBCCCCBCCCG 
BganDGGBGnaGBGaGGBaGGGBCCrCBCCCCBCCCCBCCCCBrG 

ganaBaGDaBaaGDBD^GaBGGaQBGGCGBGcccBcrccBCcccB 

DBGGaaBGnDGBaDGOBnnOGBG^aGBGGGDPDGarBCCCCBCCO 

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■DDGaBnaaaBaDaDBaDDDBnDGDBDGDaBnCQnBCCDDBDDDD 


Fig.  3. 


so  as  to  actually  join,  bu/t  a  certain 
length  of  weft  in  the  ground  must  join 
a  certain  length  of  warp  in  the  figure. 
(See  portion  of  design,  Fig.  3.) 

When  painting  in  the  satin  twill  of 
the  ground  in  the  border  of  the  design 
it  is  necessary  ihat  the  twill  should  ex- 
tend to  the  right  for  one-half  the  dis- 
tance and  to  the  left  for  the  remainder, 
therefore,  as  this  breaking  of  the  twill 
line  causes  a  slight  imperfection,  which 
is  unavoidahle,  care  must  be  used  so 
as  to  make  the  break  in  such  portion 
of  the  border  as  will  render  it  unno- 
ticeable. 

Again  it  is  necessary  also  to  be  care- 
ful so   as   to   make   the   weave   of   the 


WEA\^S   TO  USE. 

Athough  in  the  majority  of  damask 
fabrics  nothing  but  satin  twill  weaves 
are  employed  (principally  5  and  8  har- 
ness), very  good  effects  are  sometimes 
oibuined  by  combining  other  weaves 
with  the  satin  twills.  For  instance, 
one  side  of  a  leaf  may  be  painted  in 
with  a  satin  twill  weave,  and  the  other 
side  may  be  a  straight  twill,  thus  giv- 
ing the  leaf  a  shaded  effect,  which  may 
be  very  pleasing. 

Another  method  of  shading  and  the 
one  generally  employed  is  to  gradually 
change  from  warp-np  to  weft-up  or 
vice  versa,  as  illustrated  by  Fig.  4. 


A     CX)TTOX     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


25 


TWO    METHODS    OF    MAKING 
DAMASK. 

In  damask  there  is  probably  a  great- 
er field  far  the  production  of  large  fig- 
ures than  in  anj^  other  class  of  weav- 
ing. There  are  two  methods  of  weav- 
ing damask.  First,  by  the  use  of  the  or- 
dinary jacquard,  which  is  discussed  in 
the  present  article,  and  second,  by  the 
use  of  what  is  called  the  compound  pres- 
sure harness. 

By  the  first  method,  although  very 
elaborate  figures  can  be  woven  and  a 
fine  cloth  produced,  yet  by  the  second 
method  a  command  is  obtained  over  four 
or  five  times  as  many  warp  threads  as 
by  the  first,thus  allowing  the  production 
of  a  fabric  of  much  finer  texture  and 
even  more  elaborate  ornamentation. 

A  description  of  damask  weaving  by 


It  is  on  account  of  the  excellence  of 
her  bleacheries  that  Ireland  has  been 
able  'to  make  Irish  linen  famous  the 
world,  over. 


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Fig.  4. 

the  use  of  the  compound  pressure  har- 
ness will  be  given  later. 

Where  damaslcs  are  made  all  of  one 
color,  which  is  generally  the  case,  as  in 
white  linen  tablecovers,  the  effect  is 
given  by  the  threads  lying  at  right 
angles  to  each  other,  and  the  light  fall- 
ing upon  them  brings  the  pattern  in 
bold  relief  and  makes  it  easily  visible. 

FINISHING  OF  CLOTH. 

As  it  is  impossible  in  the  scope  of  the 
present  article  to  describe  the 
bleaching,  dyeing  and  finishing  of  all 
the  various  damask  fabrics,  we  can  at 
least  say  this — that  in  the  case  of  the 
linen  tablecovers,  towels,  etc.,  all  the 
finishing  required  is  bleaching,  starch- 
ing and  pressing. 

But  as  the  beauty  of  the  fabric  large- 
ly depends  upon  its  whiteness,  it  is  es- 
sential that  the  bleaching  of  the  cloth 
must  be  very  carefully  done. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Cotton  damask  is  made  in  several 
grades  and  should  be  considered  as  be- 
ing made  in  mills  equipped  with  ma- 
chinen^  for  making  medium  and  high- 
class  goods.  The  grades  of  cotton  used 
for  this  class  of  cloth  are  middling  to 
good  middling,  the  staple  varying  from 
IVi  to  1%  inches  strong,  according  to 
the  grade  of  damask  to  be  made. 

THE  MIXING 
should  be  as  large  as  possible  and,  if 
good  waste  is  used,  i.  e.,  sliver  waste 
from  the  front  of  the  cards,  and  draw- 
ings, also  sliver  waste  from  sliver  lap 
machines  and  combers,  and  cut  roving 
waste  from  the  slubber  and  fiy  frames, 
it  should  not  be  used  in  larger  propor- 
tions than  1  to  3.  In  up-to-date  mills 
and  in  fact  most  mills  nowadays  it  is 
the  general  custom  to  have  a  waste 
machine  into  which  the  cut  waste  from 
the  slubber  and  fiy  frames  is  picked. 
This  is  called 

A  WASTE  MACHINE. 
This  machine  is  constructed  so  as  to 
take  out  all  the  twist  in  the  roving  an3 
generally  has  for  this  purpose  two  or 
three  irorcupine  beaters,  and  the  cut 
roving  waste  is  delivered  in  a  fiuffy 
sheet,  from  which  all  the  twist  has  been 
taken.  The  good  sliver  waste  from  the 
machines  above  mentioned  is  mixed 
with  the  raw  stock,  while  the  cut  rov- 
ing waste,  after  being  run  through  the 
waste  machine,  is  fed  to  a  picker  and 
made  into  a  lap  of  the  same  weight  as 
the  lap  being  used  at  the  finisher  pick- 
er, for  this  class  of  goods,  and  then 

THE  WASTE  LAP 
is  run  through  with  the  raw  stock  lap 
at  the  finisher  picker  in  the  proportion 
of  three  laps  of  raw  stock  to  one  of  cut- 
waste,  the  cut  waste  being  generally 
put  so  that  it  will  come  in  the  centre 
of  the  delivered  lap. 

The  cotton,  after  being  mixed,  is  put 
through  a  hopper  opener  and  either 
two  or  three  processes  of  pickers,  two 
processes  being  best,  the  speed  of 
beater  being  lO.oO  revolutions  per  min- 
ute for  openers,  1,500  for  breakers  and 
1,450  for  finishers,  also  1,450  revolutions 
per  minute  for  intermediate  pickers, 
when  used.  This  gives  about  42  beats 
per  inch  at  the  finisher.  The  weight 
of  lap!;  should  be  40  pounds  at  breaker, 
'67  pounds  at  intermediate  and  ;16  pounds 
at  finisher. 


"26 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


THE  CARDS 

shouM  be  set  close,  the  speed  of  the 
flats  making  incomplete  revolutions 
<every  50  minutes.  The  draft  of  the  card 
for  this  class  of  goods  is  about  110  to 
125,  doffer  24  inches,  about  13  revoilu- 
tions  per  minute, 28  inches  doft'er,  aibout 
12,  the  production  being  about  500 
poTMLds  per  week.  In  the  drawing 
:frames  the  rolls  should  be  set  %  of 
a.n  inc'h  longer  than  the  staple  between 
•the  first  and  second  rolls,  and  increase 
Vh  of  an  inch  between  each  set  of  rolls 
*owai^s  the  back.  The  speed  of  the 
jfroot  roll  Should  be  about  400  revolu- 
tions per  minute. 

The  general  instruction  given  in  a 
3wevious  lesson  on  ginghams  may  be 
followed,  except  in  the  case  of  the  hook 
TO'V'ing. 

IN  THE  FINER  GRADES 
<of  damask  the  comber  is  used  and  then 
•onily  two  processes  of     drawings     are 
used  instead  of  three,  as  is  the  custom 
"When  combers  are  not  used. 

Earlier  in  the  lesison  we  have  stated 
"that  cut-roving  waste  was  used  in  the 
mixing.  Cut  roving  results  from  bad- 
ly made  ibobbins;  bobbins  not  being 
jnarked,  it  being  better  to  cut  the  rov- 
ing off  of  these  'bobbins  rather  than  to 
run  the  risk  of  getting  them  mixed  up 
"With  other  hanics  of  roving;  bobbins 
'on  which  there  is  a  large  amount  of 
-single  or  do-ulble,  which  is  generally  not 
Allowed.but  which  will  be  made  in  spite 
•of  the  most  oareful  watching;  (bad  boib- 
bins  resulting  from  breakdowns  to  ma- 
<chinery.  and  bobbins  which  are  too 
small  to  send  to  the  spinning  or  mule 
aiooons.  It  is  best  to  have  . 
ONLY  ONE  HAND 
4o  cut  off  these  so-called  bad  bobbins. 
In  larger  mills  one  hand  is  employed  to 
^do  this,  but  it  is  the  general  rule  to 
liave  the  third  hands  on  fly  frames  do 
Jt.  Under  no  consideration  should  the 
heilp  (fly  frame  hands)  be  allowed  to 
<eut  off  the  bad  work    which  they  make. 

The  cut  roving  should  be  sorted  into 
piles  of  different  lengths  of  staple,  also 
into  diffeirent  piles,  as  to  kinds;  for  ex- 
amiple.  Egyptian  should  not  be  put  with 
Allan,  even  if  of  the  same  grade  and 
length  of  staple. 

WHEN  CUTTING  OFF  ROVING 
the  hand  should  be  careful  not  to  cut 
the  bobbin,  because  this  in  time  will 
■make  the  layers  nearesit  to  the  bobbin 
-Stick  to  the  wood,  when  they  are  again 
used.  The  bobbins  containing  a  small 
amount  of  single  and  double  should  be 
pulled  off  by  the  hand  making  them, 
"Who  may  be  found  by  the  marks  on  the 
bobbin,  if  she  allows  the  bobbin  to  go 


to  the  spinning  or  mule  room.  The 
hand  gathering  the  roving  waste  should 
be  ■oarefuil  not  to  mix  the  different  sita- 
plesand  kinds  and  it  should  be  taken 
to  the  picker  room  and  placed  in  the 
different  bins,  provided  for  roving 
waste,  which  bins 

SHOULD  BE  PLAINLY  MARKED 

as  to  staple  and  kind.  The  one  collect- 
ing the  waste  should  report  all  cut 
waiste  found  and  also  those  making  an 
excessive  amount  of  waste  to  overseer. 
The  overseer  should  keep  an  account  of 
this  roving  waste,  as  well  as  the  good 
waste,  so  that  he  may  at  all  times  know 
just  how  much  is  made.  In  this  way 
he  is  always  in  touch  with  the  waste 
made  in  different  departments  and  al- 
ways kmow  whether  too  much  waste  is 
being  made.  The  boss  picker  is  the  best 
man  to  weigh  all  wastes,  because  it  is 
to  his  department  that  the  kick  is  made 
on  account  of  bad  laps.  Reports  are 
generally  sent  in  once  a  week  with  tbe 
amount  of  waste  for  each  day. 


Damask  Cloth   Bleaching. 

First,  boil  with  4  degrees  Tw.  caus- 
tic potasb  for  8  to  10  hours.  Run 
through' wiashing  machine  and  place  in 
kier  for  second  boil,  with  4  degrees  Tw. 
caustiLc  potasih.     Boil  8  to  10  hours. 

The  kier  is  the  ordinary  bleaching 
Mer.  After  seooud  boil,  run  through 
washing  miachine.  Pass  through  solu- 
tion of  bleaching  powder  at  i/^  degree 
Tw.  and  plait  down  in  bin  for  four 
hours.  PBiss  through  suJiphuric  acid 
^:  degree  Tw.  and  wash  well  with 
wasihing  machine,  till  all  trace  of  acid 
is  eliminated. 

Starching:  8  to  10  ounces  cornstarch; 
two  ounces  white  coeoanut  oil  soften- 
ing; one  gallou  water.  Pass  through 
starch  mangle  and  dry  on  cylinder  dry- 
ing machine. 

Damp  pieces  and  give  a  calender  fin- 
ish. 


ANOTHER  HAMMOCK  CLOTH. 


Hammock  cloth  is  a  fabric  composed 
of  either  jute,  cotton,  silk,  silkaline  or 
linen,  and  is  intended  for  just  such  use 
as  the  name  implies,  that  of  a  swing- 
ing couch  or  hammock.  The  all-cotton 
hammock  is  the  most  popular,  and 
finds  the  readiest  market.  Hammocks 
composed  of  other  material  than  all 
cotton  are  the  exception,  not  the  rule. 
The 

TWO  MOST    IMPORTANT    FACTORS 
to  be  considered  in  the  construction  of 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


27 


this  fabric  are:  strength,  and  a  pleas- 
ing color  arrangement  or  combination, 
good  yarns  being  used  to  provide  the 
proper  amount  of  elasticity  of  fabric, 
therefore  strength. 

Hammock  cloth,  when  manufactured 
into  that  commodity  known  as  ham- 
mocks, is  more  of  a  luxury  than  an  ac- 
tual necessity,  being  used  only  for  out- 
door purposes  in  warm  weather.  Hence 
the  importance  of  attractive 

COLORING. 

Dry  colors  are  used  in.  cheap  grades 
such  as  retail  at  about  75  cents.  Fast 
colors  are  used  in  expensive  grades,  the 
price  of  which  is  from  $1.50  upward.  In 
all  cases  bright,  rich,  lively  shades  of 
color  are  necessary.  Those  colors  most 
commonly  used  are  red,  blue,  purple, 
pearl,  black,  white,  green,  as  well  as 
others  in  both  light  and  dark  shades. 

Hammock  cloth  is  most  successfully 
woven   on   the   dobby   loom,   the   very 


loose  texture  permitted  by  the  use  ot 
twill  weave. 

In  making  a  warp  for  a  hammock, 
the  colored  and  plain  yarns  are  spooled 
upon  six-inch  spools.  These  are  set  up 
in  the  creel  rack  by  the  warper,  in  ac- 
cordance with  the  pattern  or  color  ar- 
rangement desired. 

THE  WARP 
is  made  upon  a  section  mill,  each  sec- 
tion being  warped  and  run  upon  the 
mill  the  desired  length;  the  number  of 
sections  in  the  completed  warp  is  fig- 
ured out  by  the  warper,  according  to 
number  of  ends  to  be  used,  and  the 
capacity  of  the  creel  rack. 

To  replenish  a  warp  in  the  loom,  if 
the  same  harnesses  are  to  be  used  in  the 
same  manner  as  the  warp  just  finished, 
the  new  warp  is  placed  on  the  l?oor 
directly  behind  the  loom  to  be  filled, 
and  the  ends  of  both  warps  tied  to- 
gether by  using  a  flat  knot,  the  same  as 


Hammock  Cloth. 


cheap  grades  being  made  with  a 

SCRIM  WEAVE 

and  from  6  to  8  ends  and  picks  per 
inch,  %  cotton  yarn.  By  using  the 
dobby  loom  very  rapid  changes  are  pos- 
sible, by  altering  the  drawing-in  draft 
wherever  necessary.  This  is  impor- 
tant in  sampling  and  is  rather  expen- 
sive when  applied  to  the  jacquard 
loom. 

In  creating  hammock  styles,  very 
elaborate  imitation  jacquard  figures 
are  produced  by  taking  a  design  suit- 
able for  a  dobby  loom  of  about  20  har- 
ness, generally  twill  effects;  and  by 
dissecting  the  design  and  applying  the 
parts  (straight  or  reversed)  to  a  series 
of  broad  and  narrow  colored  stripes  In 
the  warp  or  warp  pattern,  we  produce 
an  effect 

BOTH     INTRICATE    .\ND    ATTRAC- 
TIVE. 

Care  should  be  taken,  however,  to  in- 
sert several  small  stripes  of  plain 
weave,  as  this  prevents  the  cloth  from 
pulling  out  of  shape  on  account  of  the 


is  used  in  tying  in  carpet  warps.    This 
fabric  requires 

ABSOLUTELY  NO  FINISH 
and  is  made  up  into  hammocks  imme- 
aiately  after  leaving  the  loom. 

Hammock  cloth  is  made  from  34  to 
4^4  inches  in  width,  and  always  of  three 
or   more   ply  yarns. 

A  good  grade  of  hammock  cloth  can 
be  produced  by  using:  3-lOs  cotton 
warp  and  filling;  750  reed,  42  inches 
wide;  18  ends,  16  picks  per  inch;  weigh 
8V4  ounces;  measure  about  38  inches 
from  loom. 

Warp  pattern: 

19  Light  green" 

8  White 

46  Navy  blue 

4  Black 

23  Light  Green 

4  White 

15  Light  blue 

4  Light  green  y 

29  Dark  green 

4  White 
64  Navy  blue 

5  White 
64  Navy  blue. 
12  Black 
64  Light  green 
10  Black 

378  ends 


Read    from 


top    to    bottom, 
reverse. 


Do    the    same    in    drawing    lo. 


28 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars 
For  this  class  of  cloth,  either  a  low- 
grade  of  short  stapled  cotton  is  used, 
or,  as  is  more  generally  the  custom, 
waste.  When  straight  cotton  is  used, 
quantity  is  more  to  be  looked  out  for 
than  quality.    By  this  it  is  not  meant 


while  the  production  may  be  greater 
for  a  short  length  of  time,  the  ends 
breaking  down  at  the  front  and  the 
time  lost  in  piecing  them  up  constitute 
only  one  of  the  items  that  more  than 
makes  up  for  the  loss  in  production  of 
a  more  slowly  driven  machine,  which 
will  run  more  steadily  and  make  even- 
er  varn. 


that  quality  is  not  considered  at  all, 
but  that  quantity  or  production  is 

THE  MOST  IMPORTANT  POINT 
of  the  two  for  this  class  of  goods.  The 
quality  should  be  the  next  point.  Get 
all  the  production  that  is  possible  from 
every  machine,  but  always  have  one 
thing  in  mind,  that  it  is  not  always 
the  greatest  speed  of  the  front  roll  to- 
gether with  the  heaviest  weight  per 
yard  of  sheet,  silver,  roving  or  yarn  be- 
ing delivered  that  gives  the  most  pro- 
duction at  the  end  of  the  week. 

There  is  always  a  speed  over  which  it 
is  follj'  to  drive    a    machine    because, 


ANOTHER  THING 
that  must  be  taken  into  consideration 
when  reading  these  articles  is  that, 
while  we  describe  the  different  proc- 
esses through  which  the  cotton  has  to 
go  to  make  the  required  finished  yarn, 
for  the  cloth,  also  the  general  settings 
of  the  machines  required  it  would  be  al- 
most impossible  for  one  mill  to  make 
every  cloth  that  will  be  described  so 
that  it  must  be  understood  by  the  read- 
er that  when  reading  the  details  of  the 
different  grades  and  kinds  of  cloth  that 
one  mill  makes  only  several  cloths  of 
the  same  grade.     So, 


A     COTTON     FABRIOS     GLOSSARY. 


29 


IN  ORDER  TO    AVOID      CONFUSION 

in  the  future,  let  us  divide  the  mills  in- 
to three  different  parts,  first  those  us- 
iue;  waste  and  low-grade  cotton;  sec- 
ond, those  low  and  middling  grades  of 
cotton,  and  third,  those  using  middling 
and  high  grades  of  cotton.  While  the 
differences  are  not  so  great  between 
the  first  and  second  and  the  second  and 
third  as  between  the  first  and  third.still 
the  differences  are  there  in  the  number 
of  processes  used  and  the  size  of  rolls 
also  size  of  wire  on  certain  machines. 
All  that  is  asked  of  the  reader  is  to  con- 
sider which  division  of  the  mills  the 
cloth  under  description  belongs  to  and 
the  rest  will  be  very  clear.  Hammock 
cloth,  of  course,  belongs  to  the  first- 
named  division. 

For  this  class  of  goods  the  cotton  is 
put  through  opener  and  picker;  the 
speed  of  beater  is  one  of  the  points  to 
be  looked  after. 

AT  THE  CARD 

coarse  v/ire  is  used  on  both  fillets  and 
the  speed  and  setting  of  the  dofCer  comb 
should  be  looked  after  to  see  that  it 
is  properly  stripping  the  doffer.  At  the 
drawing  frame  a  smaller  second  roll 
should  be  used  so  that  the  rolls  may  be 
set  close  enough  together  as  the  staple 
of  the  cotton  being  used  is  very  short. 
At  the  slubber  and  fly  frame  this  is  also 
true.  The  one  watchword  with  this 
class  of  goods  is  production. 


Particulars  for  Dyeing  Yarn. 

LIGHT  OLIVE. 

One-half  per  cent  benzo  dark  green 
GG;  %  per  cent  chrysophenine;  20  per 
cent  Glaubers;  2  per  cent  soda;  enter  at 
120  degrees  F.  and  raise  to  180  degrees 
F.,  give  six  turns. 

Benzo  dark  green  GG,  and  chryso- 
phenine are  colors  from  Elberfeld  Far- 
benfabriken. 

VIOLET. 

1%  per  cent  benzo  fast  violet  R;  20 
per  cent  Glaubers;  2  per  cent  soda;  en- 
ter at  120  degrees  F. ;  give  six  turns  to 
180  degrees;  color  from  Elberfeld  Far- 
benfabriken. 

YELLOW. 

2^4  per  cent  fast  cotton  yellow  C,  ex- 
tra; 20  per  cent  Glaubers;  2  per  cent 
soda;  enter  at  120  degrees  F. ;  give  six 
turns  to  ISO  degrees  F.;  color  from  C. 
Bischoff  &  Co. 

ORANGE. 

2  per  cent  fast  cotton  orange  6R,  Ex.; 
20  per  cent  Glaubers;  2  per  cent  soda; 


enter  at  120  degrees  F.;  give  six  turns 
to  180  degrees  F.;  color  from  C.  Bis- 
choff &  Co. 

RED. 

3^  per  cent  benzo  fast  red  GL;  V^ 
per  cent  chrysophenine;  20  per  cent 
Glaubers;  2  per  cent  soda;  enter  at  120 
degrees  F;  give  six  turns  to  180  degrees 
F.;  color  from  Elberfeld  Farbenfabrik- 
en. 

BLACK. 

5  per  cent  direct  deep  black  E,  extra 
30  per  cent  Glaubers;  2  per  cent  soda; 
enter  at  180  degrees  F.;  get  up  to  boil, 
give  eight  turns;  Farbenfabriken  of  El- 
berfeld. 

PURPLE. 

^V2  per  cent  benzo  fast  violet  R. ;  30 
per  cent  Glaubers;  2  per  cent  soda;  en- 
ter at  150  degrees  F.;  and  give  eight 
turns;    Elberfeld  Farbenfabriken. 

BLUE. 

3V^  per  cent  fast  direct  blue  R.;  30 
per  cent  Glaubers;  2  per  cent  soda;  en- 
ter at  150  degrees  F.;  give  eight  turns 
at  boil.      C.  Bischoff  &  Co. 

BROWN. 

3  per  cent  direct  brown  NX;  .30  per 
cent  Glaubers;  2  per  cent  soda;  enter  at 
150  degrees  F.;  give  eight  turns  at  boil; 
C.  Bischoff  &  Co.  A  great  variety  of 
colors  are  used  in  hammock  cloths. 


TERRY  CLOTH  OR  TURKISH 
TOWELING. 


Terry  cloth  or  Turkish  toweling  is 
a  fabric  composed  entirely  of  cotton 
yarns.  In  effect  it  is  a  single  cloth, 
having  rows  of  loops,  formed  by  warp 
yarn,  in  regular  order,  on  each  side  of 
the  cloth. 

In  making  this  fabric,  it  is  necessary 
to  use  two  beams.  No.  1  or  the  bottom 
beam  contains  the  warp  for  making 
the  body  or  ground  of  the  cloth.  No. 
2,  the  top  or  terry  beam,  contains  the 
warp  for  making  the  loops  in  the  cloth 
or  terry  effect.  Terry  cloth  is  used  in 
the  maniifacture  of  towels  and  Turkish 
bath  robes,  and,  as  to  color,  there  are 
solid  bleached  towels,  towels  having 
side  and  cross  border  color  effects,  also 
stripe  patterns  for  the  bath  robes,  fa- 
vorite colors  being  navy  blue,  old  gold. 


30 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


cherry  red,  light  green,  etc.  The  warps 
are  of  2-20s  to  2-30s  cotton  and  the  fill- 
ing 1-20S  to  1-30S  cotton. 

Terry  cloth  is  a  narrow  fabric  meas- 
uring about  25  inches  from  loom  and 
can  be  made  on  the  roller  or  cam  loom 
or  the  dobby  or  jacquard  loom,  either 
style  of  loom  of  course  having  the 
terry  motion  attached;  the  jacquard 
machine  being  only  necessary  in  mak- 
ing fancy  border  effects  in  conjunction 
with  the  filling  box  motion.  Very  good 
cross  border  patterns  are  produced  on 
a  mutual  loom,  having  terry  motion 
and  dobby  attached. 

The  terry  weave  is  the  three  harness 
twill  weave  dissected,  and  the  different 
parts  of  this  weave  placed  together 
again  in  such  a  manner  as  to  permit 
tbe  forming  of  a  series  of  loops  on  each 
side  of  the  cloth  in  regular  order,  by 
the  top  or  terry  warp  weaving  slack, 
using  only  suflBcient  weight  to  permit 
of  correct  shed 'ling. 

In  making  terry  on  a  roller  or  cam 
loom,  four  harnesses  and  four  cams  are 
necessary,  two  cams  being  warp  effect 
and  two  cams  filling  effect.  The  top 
beam  containing  terry  warp  is  drawn 
in  on  first  and  third  harnesses  and  the 
bottom  or  ground  warp  on  second  and 
fourth  hiirness,  reeded  two  ends  per 
split  and  placed  in  the  loom,  the  first 
and  third  harnesses  being  strapped  up 
to  the  first  roller,  the  second  and 
fourth  harnesses  being  strapped  up  to 
the  second  roller.  The  harnesses  are 
then  connected  with  the  treadles  at  the 
bottom  of  loom  by  means  of  jack  straps, 
these  treadles  being  in  turn  operated 
by  the  cams,  which  are  set  on  a  cam 
shaft. 

The  cams  for  this  weave  are  those 

of  a  ^~j  '— -  45  degrees  twill,  and 
are  so  arranged  on  the  cam  shaft  as  to 
produce  the  terry  effect.  The  warps  are 
drawn  in  1,  2,  3,  4,  weaving  one  terry, 
cne  ground  end. 

The  cams  are  arranged  as  follows: 


One 


Warp    effect  cam. 


One FUllng   effect    cam. 

2 

2 

One Warp  effect  cam. 

1 
1 

One Fining  effect  cam. 

2 

WEAVE. 

First  pick,  first,  fourth  harness  up, 

2,  3,  harness  down.  Second  pick,  first, 
second  harness  up;  3,  4,  harness  down. 
Third  pick,  first,  second,  harness  down; 

3,  4  harness  up. 


The  terry  motion  is  arranged  thus: 
At  the  bottom  of  the  loom,  near  the 
side,  there  is  a  treadle,  suspended  in 
much  the  same  manner  as  the  cam 
treadles.  To  the  treadle  there  is  an 
iron  (V^  inch)  rod  attached  and  run- 
ning up  the  inside  of  the  loom  and 
connected  with  an  iron  lever,  which 
works  upon  a  fulcrum,  bolted  to  the 
loom,  side,  the  loom  driving  shaft  rests 
in  box  or  bearing  on  the  side  of  the 
loom.  This  box  is  so  shaped  that  it 
allows  the  shaft  an  eccentric  motion, 
when  the  terry  treadle  is  forced  down 
by  a  cam,  placed  on  the  lower  loom 
shaft  for  the  purpose. 

When  the  terry  cam,  revolving  on 
the  lower  loom  shaft,  strikes  the  ter- 
ry treadle,  the  rod  connected  thereto 
pulls  down  on  the  lever  connected  with 
the  box  in  which  is  resting  the  driving 
shaft,  the  whole  action  throws  the 
loom  shaft  and  loom  sley  forward  out 
of  line,  and  the  top  warp  working  slack 
the  reed  draws  the  yarn  through;  then 
the  terry  treadle  regaining  its  original 
position,   the  loom   shaft  settles  back 


■i    4 


Design. 


aok.y 

■  ■DO 

manm 

DDDD 

anno 
aaaa 

ODDQ 
DDDD 
DDDB 

gggg  Drawing--in    Draft. 

maaa 
anna 
Dnna 
□aBB         Rped    Plan 

1st  Terry.     2d   Ground.     3 1  Terry.     4th  Ground. 

to  its  correct  position  and  the  next 
pick  of  the  loom  binds  in  the  slack 
warp,  thus  forming  the  loop  in  the 
cloth — the  terry  motion  in  this  case 
working  for  two  picks  and  stopping  for 
one. 

In  weaving  toweling  on  a  roller  loom, 
it  being  of  short  lengths  of  terry,  the 
weaver  allows  the  cloth  to  weave  terry 
for  any  desired  length,  and  to  weave 
solid  cloth  without  the  loop.  He  throws 
the  terry  motion  out  of  gear  by  drop- 
ping an  iron  finger  down  on  the  trea- 
dle. This  holds  the  terry  treadle  out  of 
the  way  of  the  revolving  terry  cam. 
This  iron  finger  is  usually  either  raised 
or  lowered  by  means  of  a  cord,  fasten- 
ed to  the  inner  side  of  the  breast  beam 
and  near  the  end  of  the  loom. 

This  finger  can  be  worked  automati- 
cally by  the  use  of  a  dobby  motion  or 
jacquard  machine. 

The  terry  warp,  by  weaving  slack 
and  forming  the  loops,  will  weave  out 
at  the  rate  of  about  100  per  cent  faster 
than  the  ground  warp.  It  is  then  re- 
placed by  twisting  another  warp  to  it, 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


31 


this  operation  taking  place  at  the  loom 
and  without  removing  the  harnesses. 

A  good  grade  of  terry  cloth  can  be 
made  as  follows: 

Reed — 900,  two  ends  per  dent,  27 
inches  in  reed;  2-30s  cotton  ground 
warp;  2-30s  cotton  terry  warp;  l-30s 
cotton  filling:  30  picks.  Width  from 
loom,  25  inches. 

To  be  drawn  and  woven  as  stated 
above  for  a  roller  loom. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Yarn  to  make  terry  cloth  or  Turkish  \ 
toweling  belongs  to  the  second  divi- 
sion of  mills  i.  e.,  the  mills  mak- 
ing cloth  from  low  and  middling 
grades  of  cotton  (raw  stock).  The 
yarn  is  generally  made  from  cot- 
ton of  about  1-inch  staple.  The  mix- 
ings should  be  as  large  as  possible  and 
good  waste  is  generally  thrown  into 
the  mixing  bin  at  such  times  as  it  is 
usual  to  collect  it  from  the  different 
machines.  It  is  usual  in  all  mills  to 
gather  this  good  waste,  which  is  really 
no  more  than  the  tail  ends  of  laps, 
from  the  pickers,  sliver  which  has  not 
been  properly  coiled  in  the  cans  at  the 
cards,  combers  and  drawing  frames, 
also  any  waste  that  contains  the  prop- 
er length  of  staple,  which  has  been 
made  at  the  different  processes,  which 
from  improper  care  or  handling  or 
some  defect  in  machinery  cannot  be 
used  at  the  succeeding  machine.  This 
waste  is  generally  placed  in  cans  and 
collected  at  regular  intervals  and  car- 
ried to  the  picker  room  and  thrown 
back  into  the  mixing  bins  to  be  used 
over  again  and  is  considered  as  raw 
stock.  Of  course  it  is  understood  tbat 
the  different  kinds  or  grades  of  cotton 
are  kept  separate.  This  method  in- 
cludes all  machines  up  to  the  slubber 
and  the  procedure  is  the  same  as  de- 
scribed in  a  previous  article. 

OPENING  AND  PICKING. 

The  cotton  is  passed  through  an 
opener  and  two  processes  of  picking, 
the  weight  of  lap  being  about  40  lbs. 
at  the  breaker  and  39  lbs  at  the  finish- 
er, the  speed  of  the  beater  being  1,500 
revolutions  per  minute.  This  is  a  little 
faster  speed  than  is  used  for  higher 
class  of  yarns,  because  there  is  apt  to 
be  more  dirt  and  foreign  matter  in  the 
lower  grades  of  cotton  and  the  more 
beats  per  inch  you  have  the  more  it 
tends  to  clean  your  cotton. 

There  is  a  limit,  however,  to  the 
speed  at  which  to  run  the  beater,  be- 
cause, if  run  at  too  great  a  speed,  it 


will  tend  to  put  nips  into  the  cotton 
which  are  impossible  to  comb  or  card 
out  unless  you  take  out  the  whole 
bunch  of  fibres  contained  in  the  nip, 
which  is  a  needless  waste  of  good  cot- 
ton when  a  little  care  at  the  beginning 
would  have  saved  the  nip.  Nips  make 
bunches  in  the  yarn  and  show  up  clear- 
ly in  the  finished  cloth,  and,  while  it  is 
impossible  to  make  yarn  without  nips, 
it  is  always  the  object  of  all  good  card- 
ers to  make  as  few  as  possible. 

CARD  SETTINGS. 
The  settings  at  the  cards  should  be  as 
follows:  Flats  from  cylinder  10-lOOOths 
to  12-lOOOths  inch;  doffer  to  cylinder 
7-lOOOths  inch:  licker-in  from  cylinder 
10-lOOOths;  feed  plate  to  licker-in  12- 
lOOOths  to  20-lOOOths  inch.according  to 
what  style  of  nose  you  are  using;  lick- 
er-in knives  to  licker-in  about  12-lOOOths 
inch;  back  and  front  knife  plates  12  to 
17-lOOOths  inch,  from  cylinder  wire  at 
the  lower  edge,  although  the  setting 
distance  of  the  front  knife  plate  varies 
because  this  helps  to  regulate  the 
amount  of  flat-top  waste  taken  from 
the  cotton  on  the  cylinder;  cylinder 
screen  from  cylinder  wire  20-1000ths 
to  24-lOOOths  inch  at  its  nearest  point 
to  wire,  which  is  the  centre  or  directly 
underneath  the  centre  shaft  of  cylin- 
der. The  outer  edges  of  the  screen  are 
generally  set  about  i/4  of  an  inch  away 
from  the  wire.  The  sliver  should  weigh 
about  65  grains  to  the  yard  at  the  front 
of  the  card,  the  production  being  about 
SOO  pounds  per  week  of  60  hours. 

THR1']E  PROCESSES    OF    DRAWING. 

The  work  is  then  put  through  three 
processes  of  drawing,  the  revolutions 
per  minute  of  front  roll  being  400,  the 
production  per  week  1,650  lbs.  per  deliv- 
ery, the  sliver  weighing  about  70  grains 
per  yarn.  The  settings  for  finisher  draw- 
ing frame  are  as  foHows:  front  roll  to 
second,  1%  inches;  second  roll  to  third 
roll  114  inches;  third  roll  to  back  roll 
1%  inches.  The  slubber  hank  should 
be  about  .40  hank;  first  intermediate 
1.50  hank;  second  intermediate  five 
hank.  The  spinning  frame  makes  the 
required  l-20s  yarns  from  five  hank 
roving.  Some  overseers  use  one  less 
process  of  drawing  and  add  one  process 
of  fly  frames,  in  which  case  the  hank 
roving  at  the  different  processes  of  fly- 
frames  would  be  as  follows:  slubber 
.40;  first  intermediate  1.10;  second  in- 
termediate 2.70;     fine  frame,  five  bank. 

To  make  the  yarn  2-20s,  it  is  doubled 
at  the  twister,  two  ends  of  20s  yarn 
being  fed  and  being  twisted  into  one 
thread  of  yarn  at  the  front,  but  being 
called  2-20S  yarn. 


32 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


Bleaching    and    Finishing    of    Turkish 
Toweling. 

I£  bleached  in  the  ordinary  way  run- 
ning through  machine  rollers  in  a 
bleaching  works,  the  pieces  will  be 
drawn  and  sometimes  damaged.  Each 
piece  is  laid  separately  in  a  kier  until 
the  full  amount  of  cloth  has  been  placed 
therein,  a  solution  of  caustic  potash  at 
5  degrees  Tw.  is  run  in,  and  boiled  for 
ic  hours.  Wash  well  and  boil  again  with 
a  4  degrees  Tw.  of  caustic  potash.  Wash 
well,  and  give  a  solution  of  sulphuric 
acid  Vo  degree  Tw.  Wash  well  and 
chemic  with  Vz  degree  Tw.  chloride 
lime,  for  about  four  hours.  Give  an 
acid  bath  of  %  degree  Tw.  sulphuric 
acid.  Wash  well  till  all  trace  of  acid 
has  been  eliminated. 

The  goods  should  be  dried  on  a  tenter 
frame.  A  light  starching,  to  give  more 
weight,  can  be  given  of  4-6  oz.  corn- 
starch per  gallon,  starch  to  be  boiled 
for  one  hour.  Run  through  a  rubber 
rolled  mangle  and  dry  on  a  tenter 
frame.  If  a  half  bleach  is  required, 
a  boil  of  caustic  potash  and  an  acid 
bath  are  all  that  are  required. 


CRINKLE  OR  SEERSUCKER. 


This  weave  can  be  produced  on  less 
harnesses,  but  this  number  allow  more 
freedom  for  heddles. 


□□aacnnaDnnanDGDDnmnii'^BnBTiBnB 

aaB:DaJ«3J3B3GZiiGc;ii  ■:■  nuDa 


nDBBnGBBnaB»nn»«ziT;BB-!n»Ban«»-3a 

Rocd  Plan. 


■GaDi 

jBoaGH^a 
inaj 
:a„a 
■aaz) 

Plain  Weave  for  Crinble. 


Eli 


Crinkle  or  seersucker  is  a  wash  fab- 
ric composed  of  cotton,  cotton  and  silk 
or  all  silk,  and  can  be  easily  woven  in 
any  power  loom  adapted  to  light  and 
medium  weight  cotton  goods,  such  as 
the  old  style  roller  loom,  or  the  more 
modern  dobby  or  jacquard.  To  make 
this  fabric 

TWO  BEAMS  ARE  NECESSARY 
as  the  crinkle  or  shrunken  stripe  is  its 
peculiarity,  hence  the  name.  The  part 
of  the  warp  (which  forms  the  crinkle  in 
the  cloth)  is  dressed  on  a  separate 
beam  and  has  only     sufficient    weight 


placed  upon  it  to  allow  it  (crinkle 
warp)  to  fprm  a  shed  properly  during 
weaving. 

The  ground  or  body  of  the  cloth 
maj'  be  dressed  upon  one  or  more  beams 
according  to  the  difference  in  takeup, 
created  by  using  combination  weaves 
to  form  fancy  corded  or  ribbed  stripes 
in  the  body  of  the  cloth. 

To  make  a  perfect  crinkle  fabric,  use 
only 

THE  PLAIN  WEAVE, 
on  both  the  ground  and  crinkle  warps; 
as,  for  instance,  if  we  desired  to  make 
a  cloth  having  a  plain  stripe  for  20 
threads  and  a  crinkle  stripe  for  10 
threads,  draw  the  plain  or  ground 
threads  on  four  harnesses,  straight 
draft,  1,  2,  3,  4  and  the  crinkle  threads 
on  two  harnesses  1,  2  and  reed  the  whole 
warp  two  ends  per  dent  straight  across 
from  selvage  to  selvage. 

The  crinkle  effect  is  produced  by  al- 
lowing this  part  of  the  warp  to  weave 
in  slack,  while  the  ground  warp  has 
the  regular  weight  or  tension  placed 
upon  it.  In  this  way  the  slack  warp 
very  naturally  forms  a  puckered  or 
shrunken  stripe  in  the  fabric. 

This  fabric  was  in  great  demand 
some  years  ago,  in  fact  about  1884,  and 
was  used  extensively  for  ladies'  wear 
in  the  line  of  summer  ou.ing  dresses, 
petticoats,  etc.,  but  like  most  novelty 
fabrics  it  survived  for  a  few  seasons 
and  was  cast  aside,  being  out  of  date, 
and  something  newer  taking  its  place 
in  tne  popular  fancy. 

A  very  good   grade  of  crinkle  cloth 
can  be  produced  from  the  following: 
STRIPE  EFFECT  (WARP  PAT- 
TERN). 

Reed,  1150 — 30  inches  width  in  reed; 
l-30s  cotton  warp  and  filling.  (Regular 
yarns),  56  picks  filling. 

To  bring  out  the  puckered  effect  more 
prominently,  draw  crinkle  warp  two 
ends  per  heddle,  four  ends  per  dent. 
This  necessarily  increases  the  weight 
of  the  goods,  also  creating  an  opening 
for  the  working  up  of  old  stock  yarns. 
Of  course  each  manufacturer  usually 
follows  his  own  ideas  of  economy  iu 
constructing  a  fabric,  consistent  witi\ 
the  conditions  and  suggestions  sub- 
mitted to  him  by  the  trade  through  his 
selling  agents  concerning  the  nature 
and  style  of  a  sample  fabric  to  be  pro- 
duced. 

Following  is  the 

FINISH 
for  goods  constructed  as  per  stripe  ef- 
fect:    Goods     are     run     through     the 
washer,  then  through  the  cylinders  or 
dryer,  from  the  dryer  to  the  tentering 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


33 


machine.  This  operation  stretches  the 
goods  to  the  original  loom  width  if  de- 
sired, also  acting  as  an  auxiliary  dry- 
er, after  which  they  are  run  through 
the  calender,  which  machine  gives  the 
cloth  the  appearance  of  having  been 
newly  ironed. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  mills  making  the  style  of  cloth 
described  above  belong  to  the  second 
division  of  mills  given  in  a  previous 
paper,  i.  e.,  those  using  low  and  medi- 
um staple  and  grade  of  cotton.  These 
mills  of  course  use  the  average  settings 
on  all  machines  with  proper  relation 
to  the  length  of  staple,  etc.  Of  course, 
crinkle  or  seersucker  is  made  of  differ- 
ent counts  of  yarn  in  different  mills, 
but  these  do  not  vary  enough  so  that 
any  change  is  made,  except  in  the  spin- 
ning room,  which  will  be  mentioned 
later.  The  seersucker  under  descrip- 
tion will  be  considered  to  be  made  of 
l-30s  cotton  yarn.  The  raw  stock  used 
for  this  yarn  should  be  about  1  to  1%- 
inch  staple. 

IN  THE  MIXINGS 
use  other  good  waste,  such  as  described 
in  the  last  paper,also  cut  roving  waste. 
As  in  previous  mixings,  make  them  as 
large  as  possible,  and  when  possible 
put  them  through  a  bale  breaker,  and 
it  would  be  a  good  idea  to  let  the  cot- 
ton stand  as  long  as  possible  before  us- 
ing it  (after  mixing,  of  course).  This 
allows  it  to  expand  and  dry  out  and  it 
is  then  in  a  better  form  for  use.  Differ- 
ent mills  use  different  processes  for  the 
purpose  of  dyeing  the  cotton  out  and 
making  the  cotton  mixing 

AS  FLUr'FY  AS  POSSIBLE. 
It  is  the  general  custom  in  up-to-date 
mills  to  use  a  blower  in  connection 
with  the  bale  breaker.  The  cotton  is 
fed  into  the  bale  breaker  and  junks 
are  torn  apart  by  the  spikes  on  the 
rolls  of  the  bale  breaker  and  then  the 
cotton  is  delivered  on  to  an  endless 
apron,  which  carries  it  over  a  chute 
into  which  the  cotton  drops.  This 
chute  allows  the  cotton  to  slide  into  a 
fan  or  blower,  which  revolves  at  a  high 
rate  of  speed  and  the  draft  carries  the 
cotton  through,  trunking  either  direct- 
ly to  the  bin  in  which  it  belongs  or 
drops  it  on  to  an  endless  lattice,  which 
may  be  shifted  to  allow  the  cotton  to 
drop  into  the  bin  where  it  belongs.  It 
must  be  understood  that  cotton  or  raw 
stock  is 

COMPRESSED  \^RY  TIGHTLY 
into  bales,  and  if  some  means  were  not 
taken  to  help  the  cotton  regain  its  nat- 
ural  fluffy    state   the   machines   would 


have  to  do  a  great  deal  of  heavy  work 
for  which  they  are  not  wholly  built. 
Thus  the  bale  breaker  tends  to  separate 
the  matted  masses  as  they  are  taken 
from  the  bale  and  the  air  from  the 
blower  helps  to  air,  dry  and  restore  the 
cotton  to  a  fluffy  state,  which  is  so  de^ 
sirable  to  obtain  among  carders.  The 
cotton  is  allowed  to  stand  as  long  as 
possible  so  that  it  will  expand  and  dry 
out  as  much  as  possible  before  using,as 
the  cotton  in  the  bale  collects  more  or 
less  moisture  from  being  in  the  cotton  y 
storehouses  in  general  use. 

The  cotton  used  for  30s  yarn  is  gen- 
erally passed  through 

TWO  PROCESSES  OF  PICKING, 
if  a  blower  is  used.  A  good  weight  per 
yard  of  lap  is  16  ounces  and  total 
weight  of  lap  is  40  pounds  at  the  break- 
er and  WVi  ounces  per  yard  and  39 
pounds  per  lap  at  the  finisher.  The 
speed  of  the  beater  is  the  same  as  has 
been  given  for  mills  of  the  second  divi- 
sion. At  the  card  the  draft  should  be 
about  100  to  ilO,  which  will  give  the 
weight  of  the  sliver  about  65  grains. 
The  doffer  should  be  speeded  so  as  to 
give  about  800  pounds  production.  The 
sliver  is  then  generally  run  through 
three  processes  of  drawing  frames,  a 
good  draft  of  which  is  as  follows- 
breaker,  5  plus;  intermediate  4 — ;  fin- 
isher 6;  which  will  give  the  following 
weight  of  sliver  per  yard;  at  the  break- 
er 74  grains;  intermediate,  79  grains; 
and  finisher,7o  grains.  Be  careful  of  the 
settings  of  the  rolls  at  the  drawing. 
The  hank  roving  at  the  slubber  should 
be  .45;  at  the  first  intermediate  fly 
frame  1.40;  at  the  second  intermediate, 
or,  as  it  is  soiiietimes  called,  the  rov- 
ing frame,  3.5  hank  and  jack  or  fine 
frames,  7  to  7.5  hank.  The  roving  is 
then  carried  to  the  spinning  room 
where  it  is  spun  into  30s  yarn.  If  yarn 
of  a  little  higher  or  lower  count  is  de- 
sired the  draft  gear  is  generally 
changed  at  this  frame  to  give  the  re- 
quired count. 


Dyeing  Particulars. 
LIGHT  BLtlE. 
For  100  pounds  yarn,  l^^  per 
cent  immedial  indone  B  pat.;  Xy^ 
per  cent  immedial  sky  blue  cone;  5  per 
cent  sodium  sulphide;  10  per  cent  crys- 
talline Glauber's  salt;  3  per  cent  soda 
ash;  enter  at  boil,  boil  one  hour;  wash 
well  with  water. 

DARK  BLUE. 
For  100  pounds  yarn:  8  per  cent  im- 
medial indone  blue  Pat;  10  per  cent  so- 
dium sulphide;     15  per  cent  crystalline 
Glauber's  salt;  3  per  cent  soda  ash;  en- 


34 


"    A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


ter  at  boil,  boil  one  hour;    wash  well 
with  water. 

BLACK. 

For  100  pounds  yarn,  20  per  cent  im- 
medial  indone  blue  Pat;  10  per  cent  so- 
dium sulphide;  15  per  cent  crystalline 
Glauber's  salt;  3  per  cent  soda  ash; 
enter  at  boil,  boil  one  hour;  wash  well 
with  water;  second  bath,  one-half 
above  proportions, 

OLIVE  GREEN. 

12  per  cent  pyrogene  olive  N:  6  per 
cent  sodium  sulphide;  20  per  cent 
Glauber's  salt;  3  per  cent  soda  ash;  en- 
ter at  boil;  boil  one  hour,  wash  well 
with  water. 

BROWN. 

12  per  cent  pyrogene  brown  G:  8  per 
cent  sodium  sulphide;  20  per  cent 
Glauber's  salt;  3  per  cent  soda  ash; 
enter  at  boil,  boil  one  hour;  wash  well 
with  water. 

FINISHING  PROCESS. 

Starch  with  six  ounces  cornstarch; 
six  ounces  cocoanut  oil  white  soften- 
ing; one  gallon  water;  boil  starch  for 
45  minutes;  rinse  through  starch 
mangle;  dry  on  tenter  frame. 


COTTONADE. 


to  produce  a  cheap  single-cloth  trou- 
sering composed  of  a  rather  coarse 
but  fairly  strong  single  warp  thread 
and  a  thick  or  lofty  single  filling 
thread,  which  combination  in  certain 
proportions  gives  the  fabric  a  weighty 
appearance. 

THE  FILLING 
is  usually  an  all-cotton  shoddy  filling, 
made  from  old  dark  colored  cotton 
rags.  By  willowing  and  pickering,  the 
yarn  is  brought  to  the  carded  state. 
The  fibres  in  an  all-cotton  shoddy  are 
short,  due  to  the  process  of  reduction 
as  .itated  above. 

From  the  pickers  the  shoddy  is  run 
through  the  first  and  second  break- 
ers and  then  through  the  condenser 
or  finisher  card.  The  spool  drum  con- 
taining the  roving  is  then  taken  from 
the   condenser  card  and  placed  upon 


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GBaunaBDaDDa 

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DaBBDaaaanaB 

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BBGna»nDBBna 

BJCBB  —  BGBBD 


DGDannnannrn 

DDBDDDBaCDCB 

UBDDDBD'  BDDIl 

annDBDDDCBDD 

DrawinG.in  Dralt 


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Cottonade  is  a  heavy,  coarse, 
single  cloth,  made  of  single  yarn,  gen- 
erally l-20s  cotton  warp  and  16-cut 
wool  spun,  weaving  woolen  prin- 
ciple, all-cotton  shoddy  filling.  It  is 
used  as  a  trousering,  an  important 
feature  of  which  is  the  low  selling 
price  of  the  finished  garment. 

It  is  best  Adapted  to  the  old-style 
roller  or  cam  loom,  and  is  made  and 
woven  on  four  harnesses,  generally  the 
^—^  twill,  either  right  or  left  hand,  or 
herring-bone  weave  effect  (twill 
running  at  angle  of  45  degrees).  It 
is  a  narrow  fabric,  being  set  in  the 
reed  30  inches,  andreceivingvery  little 
finish  and  is  soil  at  27  inches  in 
width. 

THE  PATTERNS 

are  usually  on  the  dark  side  with  a 
small  percentage  of  bright  color  added 
to  Improve  the  tone:  Black,  dark 
slate  and  dark  drab  for  ground  colors, 
and  an  occasional  red,  pearl,  light 
brown  or  an  equivalent  color  to  bright- 
en the  whole  pattern. 
In  making  a  cottonade  the  object  is 


nGaaGaaaGnaa 
BaaGBBGGaaaa 

Keed  Plan 


45°  twill 

2 

Herring-bone  effect. 


rGBBGCBB 
BBi^G'^rD 

Reed  Plan 


Right-hand  twill. 

the  mule  to  be  spun  upon  tubes,  ready 
for  the  weaver. 

The  fibres  being  short,  the  shoddy 
will  lose  from  15  to  20  per  cent  of  its 
weight  during  the  carding  and  spin- 
ning, also  from  the  3  to  5  per  cent  of 
waste  made  by  the  weaver. 

To  find  stock  at  picker: 

Cottonade,  30  inches  in  reed;  32 
picks;  16-ciit  cotton  (woolen  princi- 
ple) shoddy;  32  times  30  equals  960 
yards  divided  by  300  equals  3.2  ounces 
filling,  plus  5  per  cent  loss  equals  3.- 
18  ounces;  16-cut  times  300  equals 
4,800  divided  by  16  ounces  equals  300 
yards  per  ounce;  3.18  ounces  at  loom 
plus  20  per  cent  loss  in  carding,  spin- 
ning equals  3.82  ounces  at  picker  per 
yard  of  cloth. 

Cottonade,  reed  800-2  ends  per  split, 
30  inches  wide,  32  picks,  16-cut  cotton 
(woolen  principle)  shoddy,  l-20s  cot- 
ton warp. 

Finish  about  27  inches.  To  finish 
run  through  dry  hot  press. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


35 


Weigh   iVi  ounces  about. 


Warp  pattern: 

10  Black. 

2  Dark  slate. 

1  Red. 

1  Black. 

2  Dark  drab. 

1  Black. 

1  Red. 

2  Dark  slate. 

Design — : 

regular    ^— —  4 

hand 

twill. 

45  degree  right 


THE  WEAVING. 

To  weave  in  roller  loom,  this  warp 
is  drawn  in  1,  2,  3,  4,  on  four  harnesses, 
and  these  harnesses  suspended  in  the 
loom  from  the  rollers  by  means  of 
straps  attached  to  hooks  on  the  top 
of  the  harness  or  heddle  shafts.  The 
harnesses  are  then  fastened  to  the 
loom  treadles  by  means  of  jackstraps 
running  from  the  bottom  of  the  har- 
ness to  said  treadles,  the  treadles  be- 
ing operated  by  a  series  of  cams,  con- 
sistent Willi  weave  effect  desired. 

These  cams  are  so  arranged  on  the 
cam  shaft  that  in  revolving  they 
strike  the  treadles,  and  this  action, 
pulling  the  harness  up  and  down, 
opens  the  shed.  (Note — in  a  roller 
loom  two  or  more  harnesses  are  always 
attached  to  one  top  roller,  and  of  nec- 
essity whatever  pulls  one  down  must 
pull  the  mate  harness  up,  the  cams 
always  being  arranged  to  permit  this.) 

In  applying  this  weave  the  first  and 
third  harnesses  are  strapped  to  the 
first  top  roller  and  the  second  and 
fourth  strapped  to  second  top  roller. 
This  being  the  case,  the  action  of  the 
cams  in  opening  the  shed  causes  the 
raisers  and  sinkers  on  each  succes- 
sive warp  thread  in  the  repeat  of  the 
weave  to  start  one  pick  later  than 
that  of  the  thread  preceding  it,  there- 
by forming  a  twill  line. 

A  warp  to  be  woven  ^  twill, 
drawn  on  four  harnesses  1,  2,  3,  4,  and 
strapped  up  in  this  manner,  and  hav- 
ing the  cams  set  properly  should  shed 
thu.-3:  First  pick,  first  and  fourth  up; 
second  and  third  down.  Second  pick, 
first  and  second  up;  third  and  fourth 
down.  Third  pick,  second  and  third 
up;  first  and  fourth  down.  Fourth 
pick,  third  and  fourth  up;  first  and 
second  down. 

The  herring-bone  weave  effect  is 
produced  by  drawing  in  the  warp  from 
front  to  back  and  back  to  front  in  the 
harness  and  using  the  same  set  of 
cams,  set  in  the  same  manner  and  po- 
sition, and  the  same  harness  strapping 
as  in  making  a  straight  right  hard 
twill. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

For  this  class  of  goods  the  cotton 
yarn  is  generally  made  and  spun  in 
the  same  way  as  wool  and  worsted 
yarns,  and  is  generally  made  in  mills 
and  on  the  machinery  generally  used 
for  making  worsted  or  woolen  yams. 
It  will  be  understood  that  the  meth- 
ods of  making  yarn  in  a  cotton  mill 
and  a  woolen  mill  are  entirely  differ- 
ent, both  as  to  the  number  of  proc- 
esses used  and  as  to  the  machinery 
used.  In  fact,  the  fundamental  prin- 
ciples for  spinning  yarn  are  entirely 
different  in  each  mill,  and  as  we  are 
describing  cotton  fabrics  in  these  ar- 
ticles we  will  proceed  just  as  if  the 
yarn  used  for  this  class  of  goods  was 
made  at  a  cotton  mill  and  sold  to  a 
woolen  mill,  which  is  sometimes  done. 

THE  RAW  STOCK. 
The  raw  stock  used  for  this  class  of 
fabric  would  be  of  a  low  grade  and 
generally  mixed  with  comber  or  even 
card  waste;  the  percentage  of  waste 
used  would  depend  a  great  deal  on  the 
count  of  yarn  to  be  made.  In  the  fab- 
ric under  description  the  count  of  the 
cotton  yarn  is  l-20s.  The  raw  cotton, 
would  be  opened  up  and  run  through  a 
bale  breaker,  or  it  may  be  opened 
at  the  bin  and  not  run  through 
the  bale  breaker  which  will 
save  the  expense  of  one  process, 
but  the  cotton  will  not  be  opened  up 
as  well  and  a  more  even  yarn  yam  will 
be  made  when  bale  breaker  is  used. 
As  the  cotton  is  opened  at  the  bin  it 
is  mixed  with  the  carded  or  combed 
waste  in  the  proportion  required;  the 
cotton  layers  being  taken  from  the 
bale  and  pulled  apart  as  much  as 
possible  so  as  to  let  the  air  get  at 
them  and  also  so  as  to  lighten  the 
work  of  the  opener.  The  cotton  is 
taken  and  put  into  the  opener  which 
is  generally  attached  to  the  breaker 
picker,  either  directly  or  indirectly  by 
having  the  cotton  carried  through 
trualdng  (through  which  it  is  blown 
by  a  draft  of  air  from  a  fan  on  the 
opener)  which  connects  with  the  back 
part  of  the  breaker  picker.  The  open- 
er machine  may  be  on  the  same  floor 
or  may  be  situated  on  the  floor  above 
or  below  the  breaker  picker;  but  in 
mills,  as  they  are  now  constructed,  the 
opener  is  on  the  same  floor  and  is  con- 
sidered as  a  part  of  the  breaker  pick- 
er. 

PARTICULARS    TO    BE   OBTAINED. 

For  this     count  of    yam  the  speed 

of   ihe   beater   should   be   about   1,050 

revolutions   per  minute.     The  hopper 


36 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


on  the  opener  should  always  be  kept 
more  than  half  full  of  cotton  and  it 
should  be  as  large  as  possible,  the 
reason  for  this  being  taat  a  more  even 
amount  of  cotton  will  always  be  pre- 
sented to  the  pin  beater  by  the  lift- 
ing apron  than  when  the  hopper  i? 
less  than  half  full.  This  is  important, 
not  only  in  reference  to  "cottonade 
fabrics,"  but  also  all  classes  of  goods, 
because  if  it  is  less  than  half  full 
it  is  apt  to  cause  uneven  yarn.  The 
speed  of  the  beater  on  the  breaker 
and  finisher  pickers  should  be  about 
1,500  revolutions  per  minute,  which 
gives  the  beats  per  inch  about  42. 
The  weight  of  the  lap  at  the  breaker 
picker  should  not  be  less  than  40 
pounds  and  at  the  finisher  less  than 
/39  pounds.  A  39-pound  lap  gives  a 
i  weight  of  lap  per  yard  of  14%  ounces. 
The  card  is  set  so  as  not  to  take  out 
too  much  waste,  and  wader  settings  are 
used  than  those  given  in  a  previous 
article.  The  draft  used  should  be 
100,  the  sliver  at  the  front  weighing 
G5  grains.  Production  at  the  card 
should  be  at  least  900  pounds.  The 
sliver  is  then  run  through  two  proc- 
esses of  drawing,  the  weight  of  sliver 
at  the  finisher  being  about  72  grains 
per  yard.  The  production  per  delivery 
of  the  finisher  drawing  frame  should 
be  at  least  1,600  pounds  per  week  of 
60  hours  and  the  percentage  of  lost 
time  at  this  machine  not  more  than 
15  per  cent.  The  slubber  is  the  next 
process  and  the  hank  roving  made  at 
this  machine  should  be  about  .40. 
Three-process  fly  frames  are  used  and 
the  hank  roving  at  the  different  proc- 
esses should  be  as  follows:  1st  inter- 
mediate 1.10  hank;  2d  intermediate 
2.75  hank;  fi^e-frame  from  4.50  to  5.00 
hank.  Care  should  be  taken  that  the 
rolls  are  not  spread  too  far  apart  on 
these  machines  and  a  good  setting 
for  rolls  of  this  stock  for  slubbers 
and  fly  frames  is  as  follows:  Front 
roll  to  middle  spread  to  1%  inches; 
middle  roll  to  back  roll  2  inches.  The 
yarn  is  then  taken  to  the  spinning 
room  where  it  is  spun  into  20s  yarn,  a 
soft  twist  being  used. 


Dyeing  Particulars  for  Raw  Stock. 
BLACK. 

For  100  pounds:  18  per  cent  pyro- 
gene  black  B.  D.;  12  per  cent  sodium 
sulphide;  8  per  cent  soda  ash;  70  per 
cent  salt.  Enter  at  boil,  boil  one 
hour,  and  wash  well  in  water. 
PEARL. 

One   per  cent   pyrogene  gray   B;    2 
per  cent  sodium  sulphide;   2  per  cent 


soda  ash;    5  per  cent  salt.     Enter  at 
boil,  boil  one  hour. 

LIGHT   BROWN. 
Five  per   cent  pyrogene   brown   G; 
5  per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  2  per  cent 
soda  ash;    5  per  cent  salt.     Enter  at 
boil,  boil  one  hour,  wash  well. 
RED. 
Five  per   cent   rosanthrene   red   A; 
25  per  cent  Glauber's  salt;  3  per  cent 
soda.     Enter     at  boil,  boil     one  hour, 
rinse,    diazotize   for   one-quarter  hour 
with  nitrite   soda   and   muriatic  acid, 
rinse. 

Develop  with  beta  naphthol  and 
caustic  soda  for  one-quarter  hour. 
This  red  is  brighter  and  faster  than 
primuline  red. 

DIAZOTIZING  BATH. 
One    and    one-half    per    cent   nitric 
soda,  5  per  cent  muriatic  acid,  20  de- 
grees be. 

DEVELOPING  BATH. 
One    and    three-quarters    per    cent 
beta  naphthol;  3  per  cent  soda  ash. 
DARK  SLATE. 
Two   and   one-half   per   cent   imme- 
dial  direct  blue,  B  pat.;    %  per  cent 
immedial  olive,  B  pat.;   5  per  cent  sul- 
phide sodium;    2   per  cent  soda  ash; 
20  per  cent  Glauber's  salt.     Enter  at 
boil,  boil  one  hour. 

DARK  DRAB. 
One  and  one-half  per  cent  immedial 
brown,  pat.;  %  per  cent  immedial 
olive,  B  pat.;  %  per  cent  immedial 
black,  N  B  pat.;  20  per  cent  Glauber's 
salt;  2  per  cent  soda  ash;  5  per  cent 
sulphide  soda.  Enter  at  boil,  boil  one 
hour. 


COTTON  WORSTED 
WEAR. 


MEN'S 


Cotton  worsted  men's  wear  is  a  fab- 
ric composed  of  either  2-20s  or  2-30s 
cotton  warp  and  filling,  and  receives 
either  a  dry  or  wet  finish.  The  weave, 
color  arrangement  and  general  con- 
struction are  an  exact  duplicate  of  the 
finest  worsted  goods  of  the  present 
time. 

This  fabric  is  used  in  the  manufac- 
ture of  men's  suitings  and  trouserings, 
retailing  at  $7  to  $12  per  suit,  for  the 
middle  class  trade,  and  in  effect  haa 
the  neat  dressy  appearance  of  an  im- 
ported cloth  of  high  grade. 

It  is  made  in  a    light-weight    grade 


A  COTTOiN  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


37 


at  6  to  QVfy  ounces  for  spring  and  fall. 
and  heavy  weight  at  8  to  8M:  ounces  for 
winter  wear,  both  grades  being  pro- 
duced in  stripe,check,  and  indistinct 
plaid  patterns. 


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Cotton  woi'Sted  mens  wear  is 
usually  woven  on  a  Crompton 
&  Knowles,  Mutual  or  Ff'lrmount 
loom,  having  either  4x1  or  4x4 
filling  boxes,  and  having  a  head 
motion  attached  such  as  the  Crompton 


&  Knowles,  Mason,  Ingraham,  Stafford 
or  Oldham,  of  from  16  to  2^  harness  ca- 
pacity. Most  all  weave  effects  and 
combinations  of  weaves  known  in  the 
worsted  men's  wear  trade  can  be  ap- 
plied to  this  fabric.  Care  should  be 
taken,  however,  in  construction  of 
weave,  as  the  weave,  when  used  in  a 
•worsted  to  produce  a  tightly  bound  rib 
effect,  may  appear  more  open  in  ootton 
worsted  men's  wear  as  the  worsted 
fabric  shrinks  when  scoured  in  finish 
and  the  cotton  fabric  is  finished  dry 
and  is  practically  the  same  as  when 
taken  from  loom,  of  course  allowing 
for  percentage  of  contraction  between 
reed  and  cloth  roll.  Cotton  Worsted 
men's  wear  is  usually  made  one  face 
end  and  one  back  end,  and  reeded  four 
ends  per  dent. 

THE  FACE  WEAVE 
when  a  twill,  or  fancy  combination,  is 
balanced  on  the  back  of  the  cloth  by 
using  an  eight  harness  satin  (warp 
effect  on  back)  five  as  counter.  The 
face  weave  should  always  be  properly 
balanced.  In  maldng  this  style  of 
goods,  or  a  warp  back  fabric, 
the  extra  is  placed  there  for  the 
purpose  of  adding  weight  to  the  cloth, 
and  if  of  a  tighter  nature,  the  face  of 
the  cloth  will  present  a  puckered  or 
uneven  appearance. 

To  dry  finish  cotton  worsted  men's 
wear,  the  yarns  of  which  have  been 
dyed  from  dry  or  cheap  colors, 
that  will  not  stand  washing, 
the  goods  are  taken  from  the 
loom  and  inspected,  measured  and 
sheared.  Shearing  is  a  process  which 
means  running  the  cloth  through  a  ma- 
chine, having  a  cutter  composed  of  a 
series  of  blades  set  in  a  frame,  which 
revolves  in  similar  manner  to  that  of  a 
grass  mower,  the  cloth  being  kept 
taut  by  being  passed  over  and  under 
several  rods  and  rollers,  which  also  re- 
move wrinkles,  and  allow  the  cloth  to 
be  presented  evenly  to  the  cutter.  The 
purpose  of  shearing  is  to  remove  all 
foreign  substances  from  the  face  of 
the  cloth,  such  as  knots,  lumps,  etc., 
and  the  effect  is  a  smooth,  even  cloth 
that  readily  takes  on  the  appearance  of 
a  high-class  worsted,  after  being  run 
through  the  hot  press. 

The  steam  gauge  on  a  hot  press 
should  register  50  pounds  and  the  dial 
13.5  pounds  roller  pressure  when  the 
cloth  is  run  through  this  press.  The 
effect  of  the  pressure  of  the  steam- 
heated  rollers  upon  the  cloth  is  to  re- 
move all  wrinkles,  liven  up  the  colors, 
and  to  retain  the  width  of  cloth  as 
taken  from  the  cloth  roll  at  the  loom. 
After  being  pressed,  the  cuts  of  cloth 
are  rolled  or  sapped     into     bolts,     the 


38 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


ir. 


ends  of  which  are  then  stitched,  the 
tags  sewed  on  and  the  goods  are  ready 
to  case  and  ship, 

THE  COLORS 

used  in  cotton  worsted  men's  wear  are 
black,  brown,  light  and  dark  shades  of 
blue,  slate,  drab  and  steel,  and  to  liv- 
en up  a  pattern  use  an  occasional  end 
of  maroon,  green,  pearl  or  sky  blue. 
This  line  is  also  made  in  a  piece-dye 
fabric,  constructed  from  2-20  and  2-30 
cotton  warps,  and  l-30s  worsted  and 
1-20  cotton  filling.  These  yarns  are 
woven  in  the  gray  and  the  cloth 
scoured  and  dyed  in  the  piece,  black  or 
blue.  When  finished,  this  fabric  re- 
sembles a  very  heavy  serge.  Finish,  28 
inches. 


ounces;  31^^  inches  in  reed,  including 
selvage  32x2;  2-20  cotton  warp  one 
face,  one  back:  52  picks,  2-26s  black 
cotton  filling.  Dry  finish  equals  shear 
and  hot  press.  Weave,  can  use  same  as 
light  weights. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Cotton  worsted  fabrics,  like  cotton- 
ade  fabrics,  are  generally  made  and 
spun  in  the  same  manner  as  wool  and 
worsted  yarns  and  made  in  woolen 
mills.  There  are  a  few  exceptions,  how- 
ever, where  they  are  made  in  cotton 
mills.  The  count  of  the  yarn  used  In 
cotton  worsted  fabrics  varies  from  208 
to  36s,  and  is  generally  a  doubled  yarn. 
In  the  present  article  we  will  proceed 


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Weave  Harness  Chain 


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Reel  Plan 

Piece  dye — worsted  men's  wear;  reed, 
500 — eight  ends  per  dent;  33  inches  in 
reed,  including  selvage,  32x2. 

1  end  face  2-30  cotton  warp;  1  end 
back  2-20  cotton  warp,  ? — -    twill  face, 

8  harness  satin  back.  5  as  counter. 

1  pick  l-30s  worsted;  1  pick  1-20  cot- 
ton; 56  picks  per  inch. 

LIGHT-WEIGHT    MEN'S    WEAR. 

Reed,  900 — four  ends  per  dent,  QVz 
ounces;  Sl^^  inches  in  reed,  including 
selvage  32x2;  2-30s  cotton  warp,  one 
face  and  one  back;  52  picks  2-30s  black 
cotton  filling.  Dry  finish  equals  shear 
and  hot  press.  Weave  twill  combina- 
tions for  face;  weave  eight-harness 
satin  for  back. 

HEAVY-WEIGHT  MEN'S    WEAR. 

Reed,  800 — four  ends    per    dent,    8*^ 


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Design— Light  Weight— Stripe. 

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Reed  Plan. 

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Weave   Harness  Chain. 

as  if  the  count  of  the  finished  yarn  was 
to  be  2-30S. 

A  mill  making  this  class  of  goods 
would  belong  to  the  second  division  of 
mills  (as  classified  in  a  previous  arti- 
cle) i.e.,  a  mill  equipped  with  machin- 
ery for  making  yarns  from  low  to  me- 
dium grades  of  cotton. 

THE  MIXINGS 
would  be  made  in  the  usual  manner, 
being  run  through  a  bale  breaker  Into 
the  mixing  bin  and  at  this  point  mixed 
with  the  sliver  waste  returned  from  the 
cards,  drawing  frames  and  combers  (if 
there  are  any  of  these  machines  in  the 
mill)  and  then  it  is  run  through  an 
opener  and  through  three  processes  of 
pickers.  At  the  finisher  picker  laps  of 
cut  roving-  waste  are  mixed  with  raw 
stock  in  the  proportion  of  three  laps  of 
raw  stock    to    one    lap  of    cut-roving 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


39 


waste.  In  using  cut-roving  waste  and 
also  sliver  waste  it  should  always  be 
of  the  same  length  of  staple.    It  is 

THE  GENERAL  PLAN 
to  use  cut-roving  waste  as  fast  as  it  is 
made  and  not  allow  it  to  collect  until  a 
large  quantity  is  on  hand. 

The  method  employed  in  most  mills 
is  to  collect  the  cut-roving  over  a  day 
(generally  right  after  the  noon  hour) 
and  take  it  to  the  picker  room  and  run 
it  through  the  I'oving  or  waste  picker. 
From  here  it  is  run  into  a  breaker 
picker  and  formed  into  laps  of  suitable 
weight.  These  are  then  mixed  with 
the  raw  stock  in  the  proportion  above 
stated,  as  long  as  the  cut-roving  laps 
hold  out  (which  should  be  as  short  a 
time  as  possible  for  obvious  reasons). 
By  doing  this 

A  MORE  EVEN  YARN 
is  obtained  than  when  the  cut  roving 
is  allowed  to  collect  for  a  week  at  a 
time  before  being  put  through  the  waste 
picker,  because  by  the  first  plan  you 
are  mixing  a  small  quantity  of  cut  rov- 
ing a  good  part  of  the  time,  whereas  by 
the  latter  plan  cut  roving  is  only  mixed 
with  the  raw  stock  once  a  week,  while 
during  the  other  five  days  nothing  but 
the  raw  stock  and  sliver  waste  is  being 
mixed.  By  the  latter  plan  a  more  un- 
even yarn  is  bound  to  be  made.    The 

SPEED  OF  THE  BEATERS 
on  the  different  machines  should  not 
exceed  1,050  revolutions  per  minute  at 
the  opener,  1,500  revolutions  per  min- 
ute at  the  breaker  picker,  and  on  the 
intermediate  and  finisher  pickers  the 
speed  should  be  slowed  down  so  as  not 
to  exceed  1,450  revolutions  per  minute. 
This  will  give  42  beats  to  every  inch 
of  cotton  fed  to  the  finisher  picker, 
which  ought  to  be  enough  to  thorough- 
ly clean  it.  In  giving  the  above  speeds 
it  is  assumed  that  the  rigid  two-bladed 
type  of  beater  is  used.  Different  kinds 
of  beaters,  together  with  their  advan- 
tages and  disadvantages,  will  be  given 
later  when  higher  count  yarns  are  de- 
scribed.   The 

WEIGHT  OF  THE  LAP 
at  the  breaker  picker  should  be  about 
40  pounds  or  16  ounces  to  the  yard;  at 
the  intermediate  about  37  pounds  or  12 
ounces  per  yard;  at  the  finisher  39 
pounds  or  14i^  ounces  per  yard.  The 
settings  at  the  card  should  be  the  same 
as  described  in  last  week's  article  per 
weight  of  sliver  being  60  grains  per 
yard  and  the  production  850  pounds  per 
week  of  60  hours.  The  work  is  run 
through  three  processes  of  drawing, 
revolutions  per  minute  of  front  roll  at 


each  process  being  400  and  the  weight 
of  the  sliver  at  the  finisher  drawing  70 
grains  per  yard.  In  order  to  help  pro- 
duce a  perfect  yarn,  it  is  always  a  good 
rule  never  to  draw  more  than  you 
double  at  the  drawing  frame.  For  ex- 
ample, if  you  are  feeding  six  ends  at 
the  drawing  your  draft  should  be  six 
or  under.    The 

PRODUCTION  OF  THE  SLIVER 
at  the  drawing  frame  should  be  about 
1,600  pounds  per  delivery  for  a  week  of 
60  hours.  The  next  machine  is  the 
slubber,  the  hank  roving  at  the  front 
being  about  .40. 

The  yarn  is  run  through  three  proc- 
esses of  fly  frames  and  the  hank  rov- 
ing made  at  each  should  be  as  follows: 
First  intermediate,  1.20;  second  inter- 
mediate, 3.00;  fine  frame,  7.25  to  7.50. 
The  yarn  is  then  taken  to  the  spinning 
room  and  made  into  30s  yarn;  from 
here  it  is  taken  to  the  twister  and  made 
into  2-30s  by  doubling  two  yarns  of 
single  30s  yams  together. 


Dyeing  Particulars. 
BLACK  FOR  YARN. 

15  per  cent  immedial  black  N  N;   12 

per  cent  sodium  sulphide;   5  per  cent 

soda  ash;   20  per  cent  Glauber's  salt; 

enter  at  boil,  boil  one  hour;  wash  well. 

DARK  BROWN. 

8  per  cent  immedial  dark  brown  A; 
1  per  cent  immedial  yellow  D;  %  per 
cent  immedial  black  N  B  ;  10  per  cent 
sodium  sulphide;  5  per  cent  soda  ash; 
20  per  cent  Glauber's  salt;  enter  at 
boil,  boil  one  hour;  wash  well. 
DARK  BLUE. 

3  per  cent  immedial  indone  B  cone; 
3  per  cent  immedial  indone  R  cone;  3 
per  cent  immedial  direct  blue  B;  8  per 
cent  sodium  sulphide;  5  per  cent  soda 
ash;  20  per  cent  Glauber's  salt;  enter 
at  boil,  boil  one  hour;  wash  well. 
PEARL. 

For  100  pounds  yarn:  2  ounces  imme- 
dial black  N  R  T  ;  8  ounces  sodium  sul- 
phide; one  pound  soda  ash;  5  per  cent 
Glauber's  salt;  enter  at  boil,  boil  one 
hour. 

DRAB. 

For  100  pounds  yarn:  2  ounces  imme- 
dial black  N  B;  12  ounces  immedial 
cutch  G;  one  pound  sodium  sulphide; 
5  pounds  Glauber's  salt;  enter  at  boil, 
boil  one  hour. 

SLATE. 

For  100  pounds  yarn:  2  pounds  imme- 
dial direct  blue  B;  three-quarters  of  a 
pound  imedial  olive  B;  5  pounds  sodi- 
um sulphide;  10  pounds  Glauber's  salt; 


40 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


2  pounds  soda  ash;  enter  at  boil,  boil 
one  hour. 

STEEL. 

For  100  pounds  yarn:  12  ounces  imme- 
dial  black  N  B  ;  2  ounces  immedial  yel- 
low D;  2  pounds  sodium  sulphide;  2 
pounds  soda  ash;  .5  pounds  Glauber's 
salt;  enter  at  boil,  boil  one  hour. 

GREEN. 

5  per  cent  pyrogene  yellow  M;  5  per 
cent  pyrogene  green  B;  10  per  cent  so- 
dium sulphide;  20  per  cent  Glauber's 
salt;  5  per  cent  soda  ash;  enter  at  boil, 
boil  one  hour;   wash  well. 

MAROON. 

25  per  cent  Glauber's  salt;  6  per  cent 
Rosanthren  C  B  ;  5  per  cent  soda  ash; 
enter  at  boil,     boil  one  hour;       wash. 

Diazotize:  ly^  pounds  nitrate  soda; 
four  pounds  hydrochloric  acid;  turn 
for  15  minutes;  develop  two  pounds 
beta-naphthol;  2  pounds  soda  ash;  turn 
for  15  minutes;  wash  well. 

SKY  BLUE. 

2  pounds  immedial  sky  blue;  two 
pounds  sodium  sulphide;  5  pounds  so- 
da ash;  15  pounds  Glauber's  salt;  enter 
at  boil,  boil  one  hour. 


FIGURED  SILK  (LENO) 
WAISTING. 

Figured  waisting  is  a  light-weight 
wash  fabric,  generally  composed  of 
1-40  cotton  warp  and  either  single  or 
two-ply  silk  or  silkoline  filling,! -60  silk 
and  2-60  mercerized  or  silkoline  filling 
being  in  great  favor  for  the  past  few 
years. 

This  fabric  can  be  woven  on  either 
the  dobby  or  jacquard  loom  having 
single  or  double  box  motion.  "Very 
ELABORATE  AND  POPULAR 
STYLES 
are  created  by  using  fancy  granite 
weaves  (filling  effect)  for  ground,  and 
for  figuring  use  the  filling  effect  of  dia- 
mond, spot,  crossed  or  curved  twill 
weaves.  These  are  so  regularly  ar- 
ranged as  to  produce  apparent  jac- 
quard patterns.  Persian  stripes  can  be 
produced  by  using  bright  colored  extra 
warp  threads  and  arranging  the  weave 
so  as  to  raise  them  on  the  face  of  the 
cloth  in  Oriental     or     floral     designs. 


Spots  are  sometimes  woven  into  this 
fabric  by  using  extra  warp  and  clip- 
ping the  long  floats  of  yarn  off  the 
back  of  the  cloth. 

Very  elegant  styles  are  made  by  in- 
troducing leno  or  doupe  weaving  by 
means  of  white  and  colored  fancy 
yarns  to  produce  open  or  lace  work  in 
the  cloth. 

Figured  waisting  is  made  in  both 
chambray  and  stripe  pattern,  always 
having  white  filling.  For  chambrays 
the  following 

COLORS 

are  serviceable:  dark  blue,  light  blue, 
brown,  pink,  red,  pearl,  steel,  light 
green,  tan,  ecru,  etc. 

The  combination  of  cotton  warp  and 
silk  or  silkoline  filling  creates  a  silky 
sheen  on  the  face  of  the  fabric  as  the 
light  strikes  it,  and  this  in  itself  is  its 
most  irnportant  selling  feature. 

IN  WEAVING 

this  fabric  the  take-up  roller  should  be 
covered  with  fine  sandpaper  and  this 
paper  presents  a  more  even  surface  to 
the  cloth  and  does  not  draw  the  filling 
as  is  often  the  case  where  perforated 
tin  is  used  as  a  covering  on  the  take- 
up  roller.  The  perforations  usually 
cause  small  rough  particles  of  tin  to 
stick  out  prominently,  and  these  catch 
on  the  long  floats  of  the  filling  figure, 
and  as  the  loom  continues  to  run,  the 
yarn  clings  to  the  roller  and  draws  the 
filling,  thereby  spoiling  the  symmetry 
of  the  figure  and  causing  imperfect 
cloth. 

The  tin  covering  very  often  causes 
clouded  or  thick  and  thin  places  in  the 
cloth.  Especially  is  this  so  when  us- 
ing a  fine  silk  filling,  and  a  great  num- 
ber of  picks  per  inch. 

To  finish  figured  waisting  the  fabric 
is  washed  in  a  solution  of  soap  and 
cold  water,  then  dried  by  being  run 
through  the  hot  press.  After  the  press 
of  calender,  the  goods  are  folded  on  a 
folding  machine  (not  lapped)  in  the 
same  manner  as  sheeting,  and  after 
folding,  each  separate  piece  or  cut  is 
doubled  in  half  and  then  wrapped  in 
stiff  paper,  to  keep  out  all  dirt,  after 
which  it  is  ready  to  pack  and  ship. 

(SILK)    FIGURED  WAISTING. 

Reed,  1,300,  2  ends  per  dent;  ,?8 
inches  in  reed. to  finish  at  36  inches.  1,- 
300  means  1,300  splits  to  36  inches  of 
reed.  Warp  l-40g  cotton:  filling  l-60s 
silk  filling,  64  picks.  Take-up  of  warp 
during  weaving,  15  per  cent;  1  300  reed 
by  38  inches  equals  1,372  splits;  2  ends 
to  1  split  equals  2,744  ends  plus  40  ends 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


41 


for  selvedge  equals  2,784  total  ends  ia 
warp. 

WARP  PATTERN. 
16  White.  1 

2  Light  blue.  1  ,  ., 

6  White.  r^  "™^'- 

2  Light  blue.  J 
16  White. 

8  Cadet  blue. 

2  Sky  blue. 

2  Cadet  blue 

2  Sky  blue. 
12  Dark  blue. 

2  Sky  blue. 

2  Cadet   blue 

2  Skv  blue. 

8  Cadet  blue. 

134  ends  In  pattern  =  67  splits. 

19  repeats  of  weave  and  pattern  plus 
40  splits  or  80  ends. 

FIGURED  (LENO)  WAISTING. 
Reed,  1,400— ends  per  dent.    2;     HV2 
inches  in  reed,  including  selvage;   fin- 
ish, 281/^.     Scour  and  calender. 

WARP  PATTERN. 
88  Red   1-40   cot. 

1  Black  leno  2-20  mere. 
4  White  2-40  cot. 

2  White  leno. 
4  White. 

2  White  leno. 

4  White. 

2  White  leno. 

4  White. 

1  Black   leno. 

112  ends  =  68  splits. 

Weight  one  yard,  2,286  ounces. 

1752  ends  +  15%  take  up  =  2061  yds.  1-40 

cot =    .981  ozs. 

40  ends  +  15%  take  up  =  47  yds.   1-40 

cot =    .002  ozs. 

304  ends  -f   15%  take  up  =  358  yds.   2-40 

cot =     .034  ozs. 

38  ends  black  -|-  25%  take  up  =  50  yds. 

2-20    mere —    .009  ozs. 

114  ends  white  +  25%  take  up  =  178  yds. 

2-20    mere =    .034  ozs. 

B6  picks    X    34%    in.     =    1932    yds.    2-60 

mere =  1. 221  ozs. 

Total    2.286  ozs. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Only  mills  having  up-to-date  ma- 
chineiT  and  also  up-to-date  ideas  can 
hope  to  make  figured  silk  leno.  This 
class  of  goods  requires  a  great  deal 
firmer  yarns  than  the  other  cloths  that 
have  been  previously  described,  and 
these  yarns  are  made  in  the  third  divi- 
sions of  mills  (as  classified  in  a  pre- 
vious article),  i.  e.,  mills  making  yarn 
from  middle  to  high-grade  cotton.  The 

COUNTS  OF  YARNS, 
for  this  class  of  goods  vary  from  30s 
to  60s  warp  and  from  40s  to  80s  (single 
or  double)  filling.  The  filling  yarn  is 
generally  mercerized  and  a  great  many 
times  extra  silk  ends  are  used  to  pro- 
duce a  certain  silk  effect  in  the  cloth. 
For  the  carding  and  spinning  particu- 
lars we  will  consider  the  warp  made  up 
of  l-40s  cotton  yarn  and  the  filling  of 
2-60S  yarn. 

THE  COTTON  USED 
should  be  of  a  good  grade  and  a  great 


deal  of  Allan  seed  cotton  is  used.  This 
is  generally  of  1%  to  l^/^  inches  staple 
and  should   be  as  clean  as  possible. 

In  mixing  this  class  of  cotton,  it  is 
very  important  that  all  the  bales  mixed' 
should  be  of  the  same  length  of  staple, 
and  the  overseer,  or  in  large  mills  both 
the  overseer  of  carding  and  the  cot- 
ton sampler,  sample  the  cotton  from 
every  bale,  and  if  it  is  not  up 
to  the  standard  staple  and  grade,  the 
bale  is  laid  aside  either  to  be  taken 
back  by  the  cotton  broker  or  used  for 
making  yarns,  which  can  be  made  out 
of  a  shorter  staple  cotton.  After  this 
the  cotton  is  put  through  a  bale  break- 
er (if  the  mill  has  one  which  it  should) 
or  the  cotton  may  be  mixed  by  hand, 
care  being  taken  when  this  latter 
method  is  used  that  the  layers  of  cotton 
taken  from  the  bale  are  pulled  apart 
as  much  as  possible.  The  ones  in- 
charge  of 

THE  MIXING 

should  watch  the  men  while  they  are 
pulling  the  bales  of  cotton  apart  to  see 
that  they  do  not  take  too  large  layers 
from  the  bale  and  throw  them  into  the 
mixing  bin  which  they  will  do  if  possi- 
ble so  as  to  get  through  with  the  job  as 
quickly  as  possible,  for  it  is  a  dirty  job 
at  the  best.  The  bins  should  be  made 
as  large  as  possible  so  as  to  accommo- 
date as  large  a  mixing  as  possible  at 
one  time,  as  larfee  mixings  help  to 
make  more  even  yarn  than  small  mix- 
ings. 

IN  SOME  MILLS 

it  is  the  custom  to  use  two  bins  for 
mixing  the  same  kind  of  cotton.  The 
mixing  is  done  as  above  described.  But 
one  bin"  is  emptied  at  a  time,  while  the 
cotton  in  the  other  bin  is  allowed  to 
dry  out  while  the  cotton  from  the  first 
bin  is  being  used.  Of  course  v.'hen  one 
bin  is  empty  it  is  immediately  filled  up 
again  and  the  cotton  is  allowed  to  dry 
out  in  it  until  the  second  bin  is  emptied 
of  cotton.  When  cotton  is  put  through 
a  bale  breaker  or  any  machine  v/hich 
opens  the  cotton  up  it  is  only  necessary 
to  use  one  bin  and  the  cotton  is  or 
does  not  have  to  remain  to  air  out,  but 
may  be  used  right  away.  The  good 
waste  from  machines  up  to  the  slubber 
are  used  in  the  mixing,  and  cut-roviug 
is  run  in  at  the  finished  picker  (it  hav- 
ing first  been  run  through  the  roving 
waste  machine  and  made  into  laps  at  a 
breaker  picker).  The  raw  cotton  is 
taken  from  the  bin  and  put  through 
an  opener  and 

TWO  PROCESSES    OF    PICKING. 
The  speed  of  the  opener  beater  should 
be  about  1,000  revolutions  per  minute. 


42 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


the  breaker  and  finished  beater  (two- 
bladed)  about  1,400  to  1,450  revolutions 
per  minute.  It  may  seem  strange  that 
the  speed  of  the  beaters  on  the  opener 


neps  into  the  cotton,  but  it  is  necessary 
to  run  the  beater  at  a  higher  rate  of 
speed  for  this  class  of  cotton  because 
it  is  very  dirty. 


and  pickers  should  be  about  the  same 
as  when  low-grade  cotton  was  used,  be- 
cause the  general  rule  followed  is  that 
the  longer  stapled  cotton  being  used, 
the  less  the  speed  of  the  beater,  because 
longer  cotton  being  used  a  highly 
speeded  beater  is  apt  to  and  does  put 


EXPERIMENTS 
should  be  made  with  the  beater  in  or- 
der to  get  it  to  run  just  fast  enough  so 
that  it  will  take  out  the  dirt  and  for- 
eign matter  in  the  cotton.and  the  above 
speeds  are  given  only  as  a  basis  from 
which  to  work.  The  weight  of  laps  at 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


43 


the  breaker  picker  should  be  about  16 
ounces  to  yard  of  laps  and  at  the  fin- 
isher about  11  ounces  to  yard  of  lap,  or 
for  the  finer  counts  10  ounces  per 
yard  of  lap  may  be    used.      The    total 


Weight  of  the  lap  is  35  pounds  and  at 
the  finisher  picker  receiving  about  42 
beats  of  the  beater  for  every  inch  feed 
The  method  of  finding 

THE  BEATS  PER  MINUTE 
is  to  multiply  the  revolutions  per  min- 


ute of  beater  to  one  revolution  per 
minute  of  feed  rolls  (this  may  be  cal- 
culated through  the  gears  on  the  pick- 
er m  the  usual  manner).  Multiply  i-ev- 
olutions  per  minute  of  beater  by  2 
(or  a  if  a  three-bladed  beater  is  up^i). 
Divide  this  product  by  the  circumfer- 
ence of  the  feed  roll.  For  example, 
suppose  that  the  beater  made  197.5  rev- 
olutions per  minute  and  was  a  2-bladed 
beater;  then  197.5  times  2  equals  395 
divided  by  3  (diameter  of  feed  roll) 
times  3.14  plus  equals  41.9  beats  per 
inch.    Ans. 

THE    CARD. 

The  next  machine  is  the  card,  and  at 
this  machine  we  see  changes.  In  the 
first  the  wire  fillets  on  the  cylinder  and 
dofier  are  finer.  A  good  size  wire  to 
use  is  35s  on  the  cylinder  and  36  or  37 
on  doffer  and  top  flats.  All  parts  are 
set  closer  to  each  other  with  the  ex- 
ception of  the  nose  of  the  feed  plate 
in  relation  to  the  licker-iu.  The  feed 
plate  should  be  set  so  that  the  licker- 
in  will  not  take  the  fibres  being  deliv- 
ered before  they  are  free  from  the  bit 
of  the  feed  roll  and  feed  plate.  The 
speed  of  the  top  flats  is  sometimes  in- 
creased by  lagging  the  top  flats  driving 
pulley.  This  is  for  the  purpose  of  hav- 
ing more  working  flats  on  the  cylin- 
der and  which  consequently  results  in 
taking  out  more  waste.     The 

SPEED  OF  THE  DOFFER 
is  a  great  deal  less  and  thus  the  pro- 
duction is  smaller,  for  it  is  quality  first 
and  quantity  second  with  this  class  of 
goods.  Of  course  the  quantity  must  be 
looked  to  to  see  that  the  production  is 
as  large  as  possible.but  it  must  not  be 
at  the  expense  of  quality.  Sometimes 
on  the  finer  counts  of  yarn  the  speed 
of  the  licker-in  is  reduced,  and  it  is 
found  to  be  of  a  great  benefit  to  the 
sliver  delivered  at  the  front,  because 
it  not  only  cleans  the  cotton  more  thor- 
oughl5%  but  it  also  tends  to. 

KEEP  THE  NEPS  OUT 
and  not  to  put  them  in.  If  carders 
have  not  tried  this  it  might  be  a  good 
plan  to  lag  the  licker-in  pulley  to  10  or 
101-^  inches  diameter,  instead  of  nine 
inches  as  it  now  is  when  using  long 
staple  cotton,  especially  Sea  Island  cot- 
ton. The  draft  of  the  card  should  be 
about  125  to  140,  the  sliver  at  the  front 
weighing  about  45  grains  to  the  yard 
and  the  production  of  the  card  being 
not  over  500  pounds  per  week  of  60 
hours.  Grind  cards  both  often  and 
light.  The  cotton  for  this  class  of 
goods  is  combed  and 
BEFORE  REACHING  THE  COMBOSIt 
passes  through  the  sliver  lap  and  rib- 


44 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


bon  lap  machines,  generally  14  ends  up 
at  the  sliver  lap  and  six  laps  at  the  rib- 
bon laps.  The  weight  per  yard  of  lap 
at  the  ribbon  lap  machine  should  be 
about  260  grains.  As  the  ribbon  lap 
machine  is  at  the  drawing  frame, 
never  draw  more  than  you  double.  In 
some  mills  the  ribbon  lap  machine  is 
not  used,  but  where  it  is  used  it  saves 
about  1^4  per  cent  waste  at  the  comb- 
er. 

THE  COMBER 
should  be  properly  set  so  as  to  take 
out  about  16  per  cent  waste,  the  weight 
of  sliver  at  front  being  about  45  grains 
to  yard.  The  speed  of  comber  for  this 
class  of  cotton  should  be  not  over  90 
neps  per  minute.  This  class  of  cotton 
is  very  hard  to  comb  and  should  be 
watched  all  the  time  to  see  that  it  is 
being  handled  properly.  After  the 
comber  two  processes  of  drawing  are 
used,  the  sliver  at  the  finisher  weighing 
70  grains  per  yard.  The  settings  of  the 
rolls  should  be  as  follows:  front  to  sec- 
ond 1%  inches,  second  to  third  1% 
inches,  and  third  to  back  1%  inches. 

THE  SLUBBER  ROVING, 
should  be  .55  hank  and  the  first  inter- 
mediate fly  frame  roving  1.50  hank; 
second  intermediate  4.00  hank,  and  12 
hanks  or  packs  for  spinning  60s  and  .55 
hank  slubber  2.00  first  intermediate 
and  8.00  fine  frame  for  40s.  Care  must 
be  used  in  setting  the  rolls  as  well  as 
in  the  adjustment  of  other  parts  of  the 
fly  frames.  The  cotton  is  taken  to  the 
mule  spinning  room  and  spun  into  the 
counts  mentioned  above,  from  here  it 
is  taken  and  put  through  the  different 
processes  required  and  sent  away  to 
be  mercerized. 


Dyeing   Particulars. 
FIGURED  SILK  AND  LENO  WAIST- 
ING. 
DARK  BLUE. 

10  per  cent  tetrazo  sulphur  blue  B.  S 
per  cent  sulphide  soda  cone,  3  per  cent 
sal  soda,50  per  cent  common  salt.  Enter 
at  boil,  boil  one  hour,  rinse  quickly  in 
cold  water  and  give  three  washings  in 
water. 

The    tetrazo    sulphur    colors    can    be 
obtained   from    the     New     York     and 
Boston  Dyewood  Company. 
BROWN. 

10  per  cent  tetrazo  sulphur  brown  R, 
1  per  cent  tetrazo  sulphur  brown  G,  9 
per  cent  sulphide  soda  cone,  3  per  cent 
sal  soda,  80  per  cent  common  salt.  En- 
ter at  boil,  boil  one  hour,  rinse  quickly 
in  water  and  then  thoroughly  three 
times. 


PEARL. 

1  per  cent  tetrazo  sulphur  black  R  ex- 
tra, 1  per  cent  sulphide  soda  cone,  2  per 
cent  sal  soda,  10  per  cent  common  salt; 
rinse  well  quickly  in  water,  and  then 
thoroughly  three  times. 

STEEL. 

1  per  cent  tetrazo  sulphur  black  Ex, 
1  ounce  tetrazo  sulphur  brown  G,  1  per 
cent  sulphide  soda  cone,  10  per  cent 
common  salt;  rinse  well  quickly  in 
water,and  then  thoroughly  three  times. 

LIGHT  GREEN. 

1  per  cent  new  methylene  blue  GG.. 
y^  per  cent  thioflavine  T,  extra;  enter 
at  120  degrees  F.  and  get  up  to  160  de- 
grees F.  in  30  minutes,  and  turn  five  or 
six  times  and  wash.  To  be  dyed  or 
yarn  mordanted  with  tannic  acid  and 
tartar  emetic. 

TAN. 

2  per  cent  tetrazo  sulphur  bronze,  2 
per  cent  tetrazo  sulphur  brown  G,  4  per 
cent  sulphide  soda  cone,  3  per  cent  sal 
soda,  30  per  cent  common  salt;  enter 
at  boil,  boil  one  hour  and  wash  well  in 
three  waters. 

ECRU. 

1  per  cent  tetrazo  sulphur  bronze,  14 
per  cent  tetrazo  sulphur  brown  G,  1  per 
cent  sulphide  soda  cone,  3  per  cent  sal 
soda,  20  per  cent  common  salt;  enter  at 
boil,  boil  one  hour,  wash  well  in  three 
waters. 

RED. 

4  per  cent  benzo  fast  red  GL,  20  per 
cent  Glauber's  salt,  2  per  cent  sal  soda, 
enter  at  150  degrees  F,  give  six  turns 
to  180  degrees  F.,  wash  well  in  water. 

PINK. 
14  per  cent  diamond  Rose  GD,  2  per 
cent  sal  soda,  25  per     cent     GlatPber's 
salt;   enter  at  boil,  boil  one  hour,  and 
wash  in  Vv^ater. 

MEDIUM  BLUE. 

6  per  cent  pyrogene  Indigo  blue,  5  per 
cent  sodium  sulphide,  3  per  cent  soda 
ash,  25  per  cent  Glauber's  salt;  enter 
at  boil,  boil  one  hour,  and  wash  well 
in  water. 

SKY  BLUE. 

ly-i  per  cent  immedial  sky  blue,  3  per 
cent  sodium  sulphide,  3  per  cent  soda 
ash,  30  per  cent  Glauber's  salt;  enter  at 
boil,  boil  one  hour;  wash  well  in  water. 

DARK  GREEN. 
10  per  cent  pyrogene  green  B,  3  per 
cent  pyrogene  yellow  M,  13  per  cent  so- 
dium sulphide,  4  per  cent  soda  ash,  30 
per  cent  Glauber's  salt;   enter  at  boil, 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


4& 


boil  one    hour;     wash    well     in    four 
waters. 


Finishing  Particulars. 

Starch  with  eight  ounces  cornstarch 
6  ounces  white  cocoanut  oil  softening, 
1  gallon  water,  boil  one  hour;  dry  over 
stenter  frame  and  calender. 


CORDUROY, 


Corduroy  is  a  narrow,  all  cotton  fab- 
ric, the  distinguishing  feature  of 
which  is  the  perfect  half-round  regu- 
lar ribs  running  warp  ways  through 
the  cloth.  As  a  fabric,  it  belongs  to 
the  general  class  of  filling  pile  fabrics 
and  is  made  of  one  system  of  warp  and 
two  of  filling.  The  warp  must  be  of 
good  cotton  staple  to  make  a  fine 
strong  end.  The  pile  filling  should  be 
of  firsit-class  cotton,  soft  spun,  to  blend 
more  readily  when  the  ribs  are  rubbed 
after  being  cut  and  brushed. 

The  warp  and  ground  filling  is  wov- 
en either    -^'     p    or  -|    twill,  the  pile 

pick  weaves  with  either  one,  two,  or 
three  warp  end,  and  floats  over  from 
three  to  12  warp  ends.  The  length  of 
the  float  of  pile  filling  depends  upon 
the  width  of  rib  or  cord  desired  in  the 
fabric.  The  important  point  about  the 
pile  weave  is  to  cause  the  pile  filling  to 
weave  with  the  same  two  or  three 
warp  threads.  This  gives  us  lines  of 
binding  and  lines  of  filling  floats  run- 
ning warp  ways. 

The  velvety  ribs  or  cords,  as  noted 
upon  the  face  of  a  corduroy.are  created 
by  first  cutting  the  lines  of  floats  of 
the  pile  filling.  This  operation  is  per- 
formed by  hand  with  a  very  sharp 
steel  knife,  after  which  the  ends  of  the 
floats  are  carefully  brushed,  and  then 
rubbed  together  to  the  proper  degree 
of  consistency  desired  in  ribs. 

Corduroy  is  woven  with  from  160  to 
500  picks  of  filling  per  inch;  and  is 
afterward  dyed  in  dark  blue,  tan,  buff, 
green  and  olive  colors,  to  be  used  in 
making  clothing  for  men. 

It  is  also  used  for  upholstery  pur- 
poses, either  in  plain  solid  colors  or 
the  plain  color  has  an  elaborate  floral 
design  printed  upon  it.  These  printed 
patterns  are  usually  in  bright  colors, 
such  as  red,  yellow,  light  green. 

IN  PRINTING, 
the  design  is  first  engraved  upon  a  set 
of  copper  rollers.    These  are  set  into  a 
regular  machine,  and  as  the  cloth  pass- 
es over  them,  the  color  being  fed   to 


the  rollers  automatically,the  design  is 
placed  upon  the  face  of  the  cloth. 

It  is  woven  so  as  to  finish  from  27  to 
ZlVo  inches,  the  27-inch  for  clothing 
and  31%-inch  for  upholstery. 

This  fabric  requires  a  loom  to  be  in 
good  condition,  as  the  beating  in  of 
such  high  number  of  picks  per  inch 
of  filling  is  hai'd  on  the  loom,  and  also 
necessitates  slow  production. 

It  is  usually  woven  on  dobby  or 
witch  loom,  having  single  or  double 
box. 


1 


or 


^or^^ 

1  2 


Weaves    are    usually      -j 
Filling,  1  ground,  1  pile,  1  ground 


pile,  or  1  ground,  2  pile,  1  ground,   1 


jDaaanDBBaDBBODi 

ffl5*fflafflffl>Bffl4IEBHfflBESS 

DaHftaaBBDaHDCiB 

BHtOSfflfflBSfflffifflGBBeB 
OBBDaUBDaBBDuBBD 

amssaBBSimBBSSiuSssei 

BaaBBBBBfflBBHBfi'fflB 
■BCDtSBDDieBaGB^iDD 

Design. 


nananaananBQDDDa 
DDcaaanBaDDnDDc  b 

DaDDDDBDCaDaDOBLj 
DnOBaODQDODD  □□□ 

nDBnanDnnanaDDGD 

UBDDDBDDriiDCCBnG 
■DDaB_DDBCDDBLCD 

Drawin2:-in   Draft. 


RtH.i     l':.in. 


DDOBDHZBD 

BQOaaBLJH 

DUBUuUl:* 

aODBCjUBU 

DUflbMBBM 

DDBUUUL.B 

GBBUBLJilu 

aauumuma 

DDBLiuLJUU 

BBDUDDDD 

Chain    Draft. 

Ground  Weave  '-^  twiU. 

B  Means  Boats  of  Pile  Filling 

□  Means  sinking  of   Pile  Filling  under  the  warp  for  the  purpose  of   binding 

pile,  this  to  be  woven  in  a  pick  and 
pick  loom. 

Finish — Woven  in  the  gray  and  dyed 
in  the  piece. 

CORDUROY. 

Four  square  inches  equals  21.2  grains. 
Finished  width,  31  inches  equals  13.51 
ounces. 

48  ends  per  inch  2-28s  cotton  warp. 
160  picks  per  inch  l-24s  cotton  ground 

filling. 
240  picks  per  inch    l-20s    cotton    pile 
filling. 

The  above  equals  finished  cloth. 

Twenty  pieces  warp  yarn,  two  inches 
equals  40  inches  equals  .65  grains;  40x 
7000  equals  280000  divided  by  .65  equals 
430769,  equals  11965.8  divided  by  840 
equals  14.24  or  2-28s  cotton  warp  yam. 

Eighty  pieces   ground     filling,     two 


46 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


inches  equals  160  inches  equals  1.55 
irrains:  160x7000  equals  1120000,divided 
bv  1.55  equals  722580,  divided  by  36 
equals  20071.66,  divided  by  840  equals 
23.89  or  l-24s  cotton  ground  filling. 

Weight  of  pile  filling  per  one-half 
inch  finished  cloth  two  inches  wide, 
equals  2.6  grains. 

2.6  girains  x  15%  equals  40.32x72  equals 
3097.5  grains  divided  by  437.5  equals 
7.08  ounces.  Pile  filling  per  yard,  cloth 
31  inches  wide. 

Forty-eight  ends  per  inch  finished 
times  31  inches  equals  1488  yards  plus 
10  per  cent  take  up  in  weaving  equals 
1653  yards  of  2-28s  cotton  warp  equals 
2.249  ounces. 

160  ground  picks  times  31  equals  4960 
yards  of  l-24s  cotton  filling  equals  3.- 
S36  ounces. 

240  picks  times  31  equals  7440 
yards  of  l-20s  cotton  pile  filling  equals 
7.0S  ounces. 

7440  yards  times  16  equals  119040 
yards  divided  by  840,  equals  1417,  di- 
vided by  7.08  equals  l-20s  pile  filling. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

36  ends  per  inch  in  reed;  38% 
inches  wide,  10  per  cent  take-up;  25 
per  cent  contraction  in  width  from 
reed  to  finished  fabric;  18  per  cent  in- 
crease in  weight  in  dyeing. 

COLOR— DARK  GREEN. 
To  be  used  for    upholstery    purposes. 
— ?    twill  weave. 

Filling:  1  ground  pick,  2  pile  pick,  1 
ground  pick,  1  pile  pick. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Yarn  suitable  for  making  corduroy 
is  made  in  the  second  division  of  mills, 
given  in  a  previous  lesson.  The  raw 
stock  used  should  be  of  a  good  grade 
cotton  of  about  1  inch  staple.  The 
mixings  should  be  as  large  as  possible 
for  reasons  already  stated  in  previous 
lessons.  One  large  group  of  mills, 
which  make  this  class  of  goods,  use  a 
somewhat  different  machine  for  open- 
ing up  the  raw  cotton  from  that  which 
has  been  described,  and  instead  of  us- 
ing an  opener  after  the  cotton  is  put 
through  the  bale  breaker,  it  is  fed  to 
a  machine  called 

THE  WILLOW. 
The  cotton  is  fed  into  the  machine  in 
small  lots  and  the  machine  pulls  it 
apart  and  thoroughly  airs  it.  Some 
overseers  claim  that  this  machine  treats 
the  cotton  to  a  more  thorough  airing 
than  when  an  opener  is  used.  It  is 
again  claimed  that,  in  consequence  of 
this  fact,  the  cotton  may  be  used  right 


from  the  bale  or  mixed  at  this  ma- 
chine. It  is  an  English  machine,  and 
while  this  system  is  used  to  some  ex- 
tent in  England,  it  is  the  general  cus- 
tom to  use  the  opener  in  this  country. 
Good  sliver  waste  from  the  cards  and 
drawing  frames  is  used  in  the  mixing, 
as  is  also  the  sliver  and  lap  waste,from 
the  comber  room,  when  the  mill  is 
equipped  with  combers. 

TWO  PROCESSES  OF  PICKERS 
are  used  with  either  a  willow  or  an 
opener.  Cut-roving  waste  is  used  and 
is  mixed  in  at  the  finisher  picker  in  the 
way  that  has  been  described  in  a  pre- 
vious- lesson.  If  an  opener  is  used,  the 
speed  of  the  beater  should  be  about 
1,000  to  1,100  revolutions  per  minute, 
with  a  speed  of  the  fan  about  350  rev- 
olutions per  minute.  The  speed  of  the 
beater  at  the  breaker  picker  should  be 
about  1.500  revolutions  per  minute,  and 
the  speed  of  the  fan  about  1,400  revolu- 
tions per  minute.  A  good  weight  for 
the  lap  made  at  the  breaker  picker  is 
40  pounds,  while  a  good  weight  per 
yard  of  lap  is  16  ounces.  At  the  fin- 
isher picker  the  speed  of  the  beater 
should  be  1,450  revolutions  per  minute 
for  a  two-bladed  beater,  or  9.50  revo- 
lutions per  minute  for  a  three-bladed 
beater.  The  speed  of  the  fan  should 
be  about  1,100  revolutions  per  minute 
with  either  beater. 

A  GOOD  WEIGHT 
for  the  lap  would  be  about  38  pounds 
and  the  weight  per  yard  14  ounces.  To 
get  the  grade  of  cotton  used  for  this 
class  of  cloth  clean,  about  42  beats 
should  be  given  to  every  inch  of  cot- 
ton fed  at  the  back  of  the  finisher  pick- 
er. In  other  words,  every  inch  of  cot- 
ton should  be  struck  42  times  before 
it  is  passed  by  the  beater.  With  the 
above  speed  of  the  beater  (1,450)  this 
would  be  the  number  of  blows  that 
every  inch  of  cotton  received.  Don't 
forget  that  it  is  very  important  to  re- 
move the  fly  from  underneath  the  pick- 
ers at  regular  intervals  during  the  day, 
because,  if  the  fly  is  allowed  to  accum- 
ulate to  any  great  extent,  it  might  be 
drawn  into  the  already  cleaned  cotton 
passing  through  the  machine,  and  it  is 
sometimes  done  as  all  persons  work- 
ing around  cards  know,  as  they  have 
seen  at  various  times  large  patches  of 
fly  on  the  lap  of  cotton.  This  of  course 
requires  the  card 

TO  DO  EXTRA  WORK 

and  clean  and  take  out  this  dirt.  It 
very  often  results  in  bringing  up  the 
feed  roll  or  the  licker-in  of  the  card, 
if  not  noticed  in  time  to  remove  the 
fly.     It  will  be  seen  that  it  is  important 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


47 


to  keep  the  picker  room  clean  at  all 
times.  It  is  very  important  to  keep 
foreign  matter,  such  as  nails  or  pieces 
of  metal,  out  of  the  cotton  in  the  pick- 
er room,  because  of  the  liability  of  fires 
in  the  pickers,  these  being  started  by 
the  foreign  substance  coming  in  con- 
tact with  the  quick  moving  beater 
blades  and  a  spark  being  struck  which 
ignites  the  cotton.  This  is  apt  to 
cause  a  bad  Are  if  not  promptly  at- 
tended to.    The 

SETTINGS  OF  THE  CARD 

should  be  the  same  as  given  in  a  pre- 
vious lesson  on  yarn,  made  in  the  sec- 
ond division  of  mills.  The  draft  of 
the  card  should  be  about  100  to  125  for 
this  class  of  cotton,  the  weight  of  the 
sliver  at  the  front  ^5  grains  to  the 
yard;  production,  about  800  pounds  per 
week  of  60  hours.  Three  processes  of 
drawing  are  used, the  weight  at  the  fin- 
isher drawing  being  70  grains  per  yard. 
The  hank  roving  at  the  slubber  should 
be  about  .55.  The  two-process  fly 
frame  is  used,  the  hank  at  the  first  in- 
termediate being  2,  and  at  the  second 
intermediate  6.00  hank  roving.  The 
nile  for  settings  at  these  machines  for 
this  hank  of  roving  has  been  given. 

The  spinning  frame  spins  all  the  re- 
quired counts  for  this  hank  roving, 
which,  of  the  corduroy  under  descrip- 
tion, is  20s,  24s,  and  28s,  by  changing 
the  draft  gear.  The  28s  yarn  is  then 
taken  to  the  twister  and  doubled,  so 
as  to  make  2-2Ss.  A  good  sizing  for 
the  slasher  for  this  class  of  goods  is  as 
follows:  Water,  100  gallons;  potato 
starch,  70  pounds;  tallow,  four  pounds; 
turpentine,  one  pint. 


Dyeing  Particulars. 

These  goods  are  dyed  at  the  jigger 
machine,  a  piece  of  30  pounds  being 
dyed.  Care  must  be  taken  not  to  crush 
the  pile. 

One-dip  colors  are  used  for  some 
goods,  but,  as  the  sulphur  colors  are  so 
much  improved,  the  bottom  color  is 
dyed  with  sulphur  colors,  and  the 
goods  topped  with  brighter  aniline  col- 
ors. 

COLOR  NO.  1— BLACK. 

Blacks  are  sometimes  dyed  with  a 
sulphur  black  as  a  bottom  color.  For 
?.0  poimds  of  cloth  (all  of  these  colors 
are  for  .30  pounds  of  cloth):  15  gallons 
liquor.  3  pounds  immedial  black  V  Ex., 
2  pounds  sodium  sulphide,  3  pounds  sal 
soda,  3  pounds  common  salt.  Dissolve 
in  separate  tub,  boil  and  strain  through 
cotton  cloth.     Add  to  jig,  in  two  por- 


tions, at  first  two  ends.  Run  for  30 
minutes  at  boil.  Rinse  in  jig.  After- 
treat  with  1  pound  bichromate  potash, 
one-half  pound  sulphate  iron.  Rinse 
well  and  dye  logwood  black.  Rinse 
well  and  top  with  a  paint  color  as 
Prussian  blue,  or  dye  with  a  basic 
color. 

ANOTHER  BLACK. 

Dye  as  color  No.  1,  with  immedial 
black,  and  top  with  oxydiamine  black 
AJVT,  and  rinse.  Top  with  basic  color 
or  paint  with  Prussian  blue. 

DARK  BLUE. 

2-4  pounds  immedial  blue  C,  2-4 
pounds  sulphide  sodium,  3  pounds  so- 
da ash,  3  pounds  common  salt  at  175 
degrees  F.  Run  30  minutes.  After- 
treat,  cold  15  gallons  liquor,  4  pounds 
pei'oxide  soda,  6  ounces  ammonia.  Run 
20  minutes. 

For  further  batches,  half  the  amount 
of  drugs  will  suffice.  The  color  can  be 
shaded  up  with  basic  colors. 

TAN. 

1  pound  immedial  brown  B,  1  pound 
sodium  sulphide,  2  pounds  sal  soda, 
3  pounds  common  salt.  Run  at  boil 
for  30  minutes.  Top  with  Bismarck 
brown. 

BUFF. 

1  pound  immedial  bronze  A,  2  ounces 
immedial  yellow  D,  2  pounds  sodium 
sulphide,  2  pounds  sal  soda.  3  pounds 
common  salt.  Run  at  boil  30  minutes. 
Rinse  and  aftertreat.  1  pound  bichro- 
mate of  potash. 

PEARL. 

3  ounces  immedial  black  V  extra,  1 
ounce  immedial  brown  B,  1  pound  so- 
dium sulphide,  2  pounds  sal  soda.  2 
pounds  common  salt.  Run  at  boil  30 
minutes.  Aftertreat,  %  pound  bichro- 
mate potash,  V2  pound  sulphate  copper. 

RED 

2  pounds  diamine  fast  red  F,  10 
pounds  Glauber's  salt.  Run  one  hour 
at  boil.  Rinse.  Aftertreat,  V2  pound 
fluoride  chrome.  Top  with  diamine 
scarlet  or  safranine. 

GREEN. 

1  pound  immedial  black  V  extra,  2 
pounds  sodium  sulphide,  2  pounds  sal 
soda,  3  pounds  common  salt.  Run  30 
minutes  at  boil.  Rinse.  Top  with  solid 
green  crystals  0. 

LIGHT  GREEN. 

14  pound  katigen  chrome  blue  5G,  1 
pound  sodium  sulphide,  2  pounds  sal 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


soda,  S  pounds  common  salt.  Run  30 
minutes  at  boil.  Rinse.  Top  with 
auramine    and    green. 

OLIVE. 

1  pound  pyrogene  olive  N,  2  pounds 
sodium  sulphide,  2  pounds  sal  soda,  3 
pounds  common  salt.  Run  30  minutes. 
Rinse.  Top  with,  auramine  and  Bis- 
marck   brown. 

DARK  BRO\^^SI. 

2  pounds  sulphur  brown,  4  ounces 
sulphur  black,  3  pounds  sodium  sul- 
phide, 3  pounds  common  salt.  Run  30 
minutes.  Rinse.  Top  with  auramine 
green,  Bismarck  brown  or  paint  a 
brown  on  top,  or  dye  a  catechu  and 
chrome  bottom,  and  top  with  the  above 
brown. 


DIMITY. 


Dimity  is  a  light-weight  cotton  wash 
fabric,  the  distinguishing  feature  of 
which  is  the  cords    or    ribs    running 


DBDinHDaDCDaaaia 

□■aaaBaaGCOB  ■■■ 
■naaBaBDaBaaaaaD 
DaaaaBGBDDaacna 
BaBnan»aa«anaDDG 
DaaaDBDBi.  DDBoaaa 
■aBaBQBaBBBaBDDa 
Design. 

DODBamBDnnnnBrn 
DaiiGDCJBaDDDOBana 
DBaaaBaQGGGBaDDn 
■aDaBaaGBDDGaGDa 

Drawin{r-in  Draft. 

aGBBnaBBanGB»nnD 

BBGGaBGGBBBaGBBB 
I     S     ends 
per  heddle  and  dent. 
Keed  Plan. 

naca 

BGBG 
DBGB 
BGBa 
DBDB 
BOBG 
DBDB 
BDBD 

Chain  Draft. 


warpwise  through  the  cloth,  and  pro- 
duced by  doubling  the  warp  threads  in 
either  heddle  or  reed  in  sufficient  quan- 
tity to  form  the  rib  desired. 

Dimity  is  a  ladies'  summer  dress  fab- 
ric and  is  made  of  regular  cotton  yarn, 
from  l-60s  to  the  very  finest  counts  in 
both  warp  and  filling,  and  is  made  in 
white  and  colors,  solid  white  being 
used  in  the  more  expensive  grades 
(warp  and  filling). 

Dimity  is  made  in  ribbod  stripe  ef- 
fects, and  in  such  colors  as  ecru,  pearl, 
light  blue  and  blue.  These  colors  are 
sometimes  printed  upon  the  face  of  the 
fabric,  after  it  has  been  woven  in  the 
white. 


Jacquard  scroll  and  other  llgures  are 
printed  upon  the  white  dimity  (,c  create 
elaborate  patterns. 

Dimity  is  always  woven  with  a  plain 

weave  — j,  and  by  printing  fancy  floral 
designs  upon  the  white  surface  of  the 
cloth,  that  compactness  of  texture  is 
retained  which  the  plain  weave  alone 
can  give.  If,  for  instance,  the  floral 
effect  were  woven  into  the  cloth,  ends 
and  picks  remaining  the  same  as  for 
the  plain  weave,  there  would  be  cre- 
ated loose  places  warpwise  of  the  cloth, 
due  to  the  warp  floats  in  forming  flg- 
ures. 

Dimity,  being  a  light-weight  fabric 
composed  of  very  flne  yarns,  is  there- 
fore best  adapted  to  the  lightest  run- 
ning looms.  A  plain  or  dobby  loom 
would  be  the  most  suitable  for  this 
fabric;  one  capable  of  weaving  from 
two  beams,  as  these  are  usually  wov- 
en. 

Dimity  is  made  in  grades  having 
from  64  ends  and  picks  per  inch  to  100 
and  more  ends  and  picks  per  inch,  the 
count  of  the  yarn  varying  in  accor- 
dance with  the  degree  of  texture  de- 
sired. 

Dimity  as  a  dress  fabric  has  a  rath- 
er soft  feel,  and  so  receives  but  very 
slight  amount  of  starch  in  finishing, 
which  process  includes  washing,  dry- 
ing and  calendering  the  goods,  which 
are  afterward  rolled  or  lapped  into 
bolts,  "each  cut  or  piece  constituting  a 
bolt."  Each  bolt  or  piece  is  then  folded, 
the  paper  bands  put  on,  and  the  goods 
are  ready  to  pack  and  ship. 


Construction.  < 

One  square  inch  equals  .6  grain. 

281^x36  equals  1,026x6  equals 
615.6  divided  by  1  square  inch  equals 
615.6  divided  by  437.5  equals  1.  i07 
ounces  per  yard;  28^^  inches  wide  fin- 
ished. 

40  pieces  white  warp  yarn  x  1%  in- 
ches equals  50  inches  equals  .16  grains; 
50x7,000  equals  350,000,  divided  by  1-6 
equals  2,187,500,  divided  by  36  equals 
60,762,  divided  by  840  equals  l-72s  cot- 
ton warp. 

35  pieces  white  filling  yarn  x  1^/^  in- 
ches equals  52%  inches  equals  1.6 
grains.  52l^x7,000 equals  367,500  divided 
by  .16  equals  2,296,875  divided  by  36 
equals  63,691  divided  by  840  equals 
1-7GS  cotton  filling. 

281/^  inches  wide  finished,  106  ends 
per  inch  finished,  84  picks  per  inch  fin- 
ished, equals  29  3-5  inches  in  reed,  100 
ends  per  inch,  80  picks  per  inch  loom. 

1,800  reed — 2  ends  per  dent  (ground). 


A   COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


49 


•cord — 3  ends  per  dent  and  heddle,  5  per 
cent  take-up  in  weaving. 

3,021  ends  plus  5  per  cent  equals  3,180 
yards  l-72s  cotton  warp  equals  .841 
ounces,  84  picks  times  28%  inches 
equals  2,394  yards  l-76s  cotton  filling 
equals  .6  ounces,  total  1.441  ounces; 
].441  ounces  per  yard  finished. 


Carding   and   Spinning   Particulars. 

Dimity,  or  rather  the  counts  of 
yarn  required  to  make  this  style  of 
cloth,  requires  first-class  machinery 
and  it  is,  therefore,  made  in  the  third 
division  of  mills  as  given  in  a  previous 
article.  The  grade  and  length  of 
staple  of  the  cotton  used  varies  with 
the  weight  per  yard  of  the  cloth  be- 
ing made  and  may  be  composed  of 
1%-inch.  Allen  cotton  to  2-mch  Sea 
Island   cotton.     For     this     lesson     we 


beater.  This  gives  the  cotton  passing 
through  the  finisher  picker  about  29 
blows  or  beats  per  inch.  The  laps 
should  not  be  as  heavy  as  when  lower 
grades  of  cotton  are  used  and  a  good 
weight  of  lap  at  the  finisher  picker  is 
30  pounds  or  10  ounces  to  the  yard. 
The  card  setting  points  should  be  set 
as  close  as  possible  with  the  excep- 
tion of  the  feed  plate  to  the  licker-in. 
The  space  between  these  two  parts 
should  be  increased  to  the  correct 
length  of  the  staple  being  used.     The 

DRAFT  OF  THE  CARD 

should  be  increased  to  125  or  even 
150,  the  speed  of  the  licker-in  made 
slower  by  lagging  the  licker-in  pulley 
to  101/^  inches,  the  speed  of  the  flats 
speed  of  the  beater  should  also  be 
slower  and  at  the  finisher  picker 
increased  and   the  sped  of  the  doffer 


SAMPLES    OF    DIMITY. 


will  consider  the  counts  to  be  80s 
and  the  cotton  used  to  be  1%-incli 
Sea  Island.  The  mixings  should  be 
large  and  cotton  allowed  to  dry  out 
before  being  worked.  As  Sea  Island 
cotton  is  comparatively  a  clean  cot- 
ton it 

REQUIRES  LESS  CLEANING 
than  other  cottons,  and  another  rea- 
son for  putting  it  through  less  proc- 
esses in  the  picker  room  is  because  of 
its  length.  If  run  through  too  many 
beaters  the  cotton  is  apt  to  be  filled 
with  neps.  For  Sea  Island  cotton  of 
medium  to  long  staple,  i.  e.,  from  1% 
to  21/4  inches,  it  is  better  to  use  only 
opener  and  one  process  of  picking  as 
compared  with  two  processes  of  pick- 
ling for  other  grades  of  cotton.  The 
should  not  exceed  1,000  revolutions 
per  minute,     for   a   rigid     two-bladed 


slower.  The  production  of  the  card 
for  fine  counts  of  Sea  Island  yarn 
should  not  exceed  350  pounds  per 
week  of  60  hours,  the  weight  per 
yard  at  the  card  being  40  grains 
per  yard.  The  stock  is  then  passed 
to  the  comber  room  and  is  here 
passed  through  the  sliver  lap  and  the 
ribbon  lap  machines  and  from  here 
to  the  comber.  Generally  seaking,  14 
ends  are  doubled  at  the  sliver  lap 
machine  and  the  weight  of  the  lap  at 
the  front  is  about  230  grains.  Six  laps 
are  put  up  at  the  ribbon  lap  machine 
and  the 

WEIGHT  OF  LAP  DELIVERED 
is  about  200  grains  per  yard.  In  very 
fine  work  only  five  laps  are  put  up  at 
the  ribbon  lap  machine.  The  comber 
used  is  what  is  termed  a  six-headed 
comber,  and  the  draft  of  this  machine 


50 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


is  considerable.  The  amount  of  waste 
taken  out  at  the  comber  is  more  than 
that  talien  out  of  all  the  rest  of  the 
.  card  room  combined  and  for  the  cot- 
ton under  description  is  from  20  to 
25  per  cent.  The  weight  of  the  sliver 
being  delivered  is  about  34  grains  and 
the  production  of  a  six-head  comb- 
er making  85  nips  per  minute  is  about 
240  pounds  per  week  of  60  hours. 
The  cotton  is  next  put  through  two 
processes  of  drawing,  the  weight  at 
the  finisner  drawing  being  55  grains 
per  yard.  The  slubber  makes  this 
sliver  into  a  .80  hank  roving. 

THE  HANK  ROVING 
at  the  first  intermediate  is  2.25;  at 
the  second  intermediate  5.00  hank 
and  at  the  jack  18.00  hank.  Care 
should  be  taken  with  the  settings  of 
the  lolls  at  all  the  machines,  and  also 
the  cotton  in  process  should  be  kept 
as  fiee  from  dirt  and  bunches  as  pos- 
sible. Cleaners  should  be  frequently 
picked  so  that  the  bunches  gathered 
on  ttem  will  not  pass  through  into  the 
cleaned   cotton. 

The  cotton  is  next  carried  to  the 
spinning  room,  some  mills  using  ring 
frame  yarn  for  both  warp  and  filling 
and  some  mills  using  ring  spinning 
for  v.'arp  and  mule  spun  yam  for  fill- 
ins:.  We  will  consider  that  the  warp 
yam  is  ring  spun  and  the  fining  is 
ring  spun.  The  doublings  at  the  ring 
frame  are  2  into  1  and  the  draft  of  the 
machine  about  9  minus.  It  will  be 
understood  that 

ONLY  THE  LATEST  STYLES 
of  ring  frames  can  spin  80s  yarn,  ;  ^d 
to  do  it  it  is  desirable  to  have  the 
guide  rolls  rotate  so  that  the  roving 
being  drawn  over  them  will  not  be 
broken.  For  80s  yarn  a  good  gauge 
of  spindle  is  2%  inches  with  a  I14, 
diameter  ring  and  a  4i/^-inch  traverse. 
The  size  traveler  to  be  used  varies 
and  the  correct  one  is  only  found  by 
experimenting,  but  a  good  foundation 
to  work  from  is  a  22-0  traveler.  The 
standard  warp  twist  is  4.75  x  square 
root  of  count.  The  speed  of  the 
spindles  should  be  9,400  revolutions 
per  minute  and  the  production  about 
.32  pounds  per  spindle  per  week. 

The  filling  is  made  at  the  mule  and 
all  that  need  be  said  about  this  ma- 
chine is  that  the  twist  is  less  only 
3.25  X  c.-e  square  root  of  the  counts 
being  put  in.  A  good  size  to  use  for 
slasher  is  as  follows:  Water,  100 
gallons;  potato  starch,  54  pounds; 
Yorkshire  gum,  2  pounds;  soap 
(white),  172  pounds;  paraffin  wax,  1 
pound. 


Dyeing   Particulars. 
PINK. 

For  100  pounds  of  cloth,  1  ounce  ben- 
zo  fast  pink  2BL,  10  per  cent  soap,  150 
degrees  F. 

LIGHT  SKY  BLUE. 

1/^  per  cent  immedial  sky  blue  pow- 
der, 1  per  cent  sodium  sulphide,  1  per 
cent  soda  ash,  10  per  cent  Glauber's 
salt;  wash  well  and  top  with  1  ounce 
Methylene  blue  O  0. 

LIGHT  GREEN. 
4  ounces  brilliant  benzo  green  B,  % 
ounce  chrysophenine,  10,  per  cent  soap, 
150  deigrees  F. 

PEARL. 
4  ounces  immedial  black  NRT,  %  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium,  i/^  per  cent  soda 
ash,  2  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 
GRAY. 

4  per  cent  immedial  black  NRT,  ^ 
ounce  immedial  olive-B,  V2  per  cent 
sulphide  soda,  Vz  per  cent  soda  ash,  2 
per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 

LIGHT  SLATE. 
Yz  pound  immedial  direct  blue  B,  ^ 
ounce  immedial  olive  B,  Vz  pound  sul- 
phide soda,  Vz  pound  soda  ash,  2  per 
cent  Glauber's  salt. 

SLATE. 
IVz  per  cent  immedial  black  NRT,  1^ 
per  cent  immedial  direct  blue  B,  3  per 
cent  sodium   sulphide,   1  per  cent  so- 
da ash,  10  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 
ECRU. 
V2  per  cent  immedial  bronze    A,    % 
ounce  immedial  yellow  D,  1  pound  so- 
dium  sulphide,  1  pound  soda  ash,  10 
pounds  Glauber's  salt. 

LIGHT  TAN. 
Yz  per  cent  immedial  cutch  G,  ^  per 
cent   immedial   orange   C,   1   per  cent 
sodium  sulphide,  1  per  cent  soda  ash, 
10  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 
NAVY  BLUE. 
3%  per  cent  immedial  indone  B,  2^ 
per  cent  immedial  direct  blue  B,  5  per 
cent  sodium  sulphide,  2  per  cent  soda 
ash,  20  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 
SCARLET. 

5  per  cent  benzo  fast  scarlet  8  BS,  30 
per  cent  Glauber's  salt,  2  per  cent  soda 
ash. 

SALMON. 
4  per  cent  benzo    fast  orange    S,    1 
ounce  benzo  fast  scarlet  8  BS,  10  per 
cent  Glauber's  salt,  Vz  per    cent    soda 
ash. 

MAUVE. 
4  ounces  benzo  fast  violet  R,  2  ounces 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


6r 


benzo  fast  blue  BN,  10  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's salt,  V2  per  cent  soda  ash. 


Finishing     Particulars. 

Mix  up  cold  '4  pound  white  German 
dextrine,  1  gallon  water,  boil  one  hour, 
and  starch  through  mangle  and  dry 
over  tenter  frame. 


CHAMBRAY. 


Chambray  is  a  light-weight,  single 
cloth  fabric,  thatis  always  woven  ^ith 
a  plain  weave  and  always  has  a  white 
selvedge.  It  is  a  staple  fabric  of 
many  years'  standing,  being  next  in 
the  line  of  cotton  goods  after  the 
better  grades  of  gingham.  In  effect 
it  is  a  cloth  having  but  one  color  in 
the  warp,  and  woven  with  a  white 
filling,  this  combination  producing  a 
solid  color  effect,  the  white  filling 
having  the  chance  of  reducing  any 
harshness  of  warp  color  in  the  cloth. 
COMPOSITION. 

Chambray  is  composed  of  one  warp 


DB^BCBOB 

aananGGB 

■DIGBGia 

GGBGCDBG 

DaOBDBGa 

GBG.       BOG 

■aaaansD 

B^a^HGaG 

DBGaoai-a 

Drawinj-iQ  Draft 

BDaaaoBD 

Daaaaaaa 

GGBBGDBB 

BOBGaaaG 

BBJGBlB^G 

Weare 

Reed      Plan 

and  one  filling,  either  all  cotton,  cot- 
ton and  silk,  or  all  silk.  It  is  made 
27  to  30  inches  in  width  and  of  l-30s 
cotton  warp  to  l-60s  silk,  the  count  of 
yarn  being  governed  by  the  weight 
per  yard  desired.  The  weight  per 
finished  yard  is  2  to  3V2  ounces. 

GOOD  COLORS 
for   the     warp   are  navy     blue,   dark 
brown,    pink,      lavender,    black,     nile 
green,   etc. 

This  fabric  is  woven  on  any  and 
all  p^ain  looms  that  will  we^ve  other 
light-weight  cloths,  the  lightest  run- 
ning looms  being  the  best  on  account 
of  being  easier  on  the  fine  warp 
yarns  employed.  It  can  be  woven 
successfully  on  the  Mutual  or  Fair- 
mount,  Mason,  Colvin,  Lowell  and 
other  roller  looms. 

Chambray,  when  made  of  cotton 
warp  and  filling,  receives  a  regular 
gingham  finish,  and  the  loom  width 
can  be  restored  to  the  goods  during 
the  finishing  by  the  process  of  ten- 
teriug. 

TENTERING 
means  the  running  of  the  goods  over 
a   machine,   fitted   underneath   with   a 
series  of  coils  of  steam  pipe;   the  top 


of  T,he  machine  is  fitted  with  an  end- 
less chain  (on  either  side).  This 
chain  has  a  row  of  steel  needles 
standing  erect  upon  its  face. 

These  chains  are  adjustable.  Thia 
permits  of  altering  the  space  between 
the  chains,  the  idea  being  to  set  the 
chain  the  width  desired,  and  as  the 
machine  runs,  pass  the  needles 
through  either  selvedge,  and  the 
cloth  is  stretched  to  the  width  de- 
sired. 

To  finish  chambray,  first  run 
through  the  sprinkler,  then  through 
a  solution  of  warm  size,  to  stiffen  the 
fabric.  After  the  sizing  the  goods- 
are  tentered,  to  widen  and  partly  dry 
them,  then  run  through  the  cylinders 
to  complete  drying  and  last  the  cal- 
ender to  remove  wrinkles,  and  to  pro- 
duce smooth,  evenly  ironed  finish. 

1  square  inch  equals  1.23  grains. 

27xc)6  equals  973x1.23  equals  1,195.- 
56  divided  by  1  equals  1,195.56  divid- 
ed by  437.5  equals  2.736  ounces  per 
yard. 

27  inches  wide  finished. 

15  pieces  light  blue  warp  yam  x  4 
inches  equals  60  inches  equals  .58 
grains — 6  per  cent  weight  size  equals 
.5,452  grains — 15  per  cent  take-up. 
equals  .4,635  grains. 

60x7,000  equals  420,000  divided  by 
.4,635  equals  906,148  divided  by  35 
equals  25,176  divided  by  840  equals 
1-30S  warp. 

30  pieces  white  filling  yam  x  2 
inches  equals  60  inches  equals  .55 
grains. 

60x7,000  equals  420,000  divided  by 
.55  equals  763,636  divided  by  36  equals 
21,214  divided  by  840  equals  l-36s 
filling. 

78  ends  per  inch  finished  and  60 
picks  per  inch  finished  equal  72  ends 
in  reed  per  inch  and  56  picks  in  loom 
per  inch. 

6  per  cent  size  on  warp;  15  per 
cent  take-up  on  warp;  weaving. 

1,300  reed,  2  ends  per  dent. 

27  inches  wide  finished  including 
selvedge. 

78  ends  x  27  inches  equals  2,106  plus 
32  ends  white  selvedge  equals  2,138. 

2,106  bine  ends  +  16%  take-up  =2,477.65 
vards  l-30s  warp =  1.673  ozs. 

32  white  ends  -t-  15%  take-up  =37.66 
yards  l-30s  selvedge =     .023  OZB. 

60  picks  per  inch  x  27  Inches  =  1.620 
yards  l-26s  white  fllllng =  1.186  ozb. 

2.782  ozs. 

2.782  ounces  per  yard. 


Carding  and   Spinning  Particulars. 

The    required      machines,      etc.,    to 
make  chambray  belong  to  the  second 


52 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


division  of  mills  as  given  in  a  previous 
lesson.     For    this    class    of    goods    a 
1%      to     IV^-inch      staple     American 
cotton        may        be        used.         Mix- 
ings should  be  large  so  that  the  yarn 
will  always  be  as  uniform  as  possible. 
After    being     run    through      the    bale 
breaker,  the  cotton   should   be  passed 
through     an   opener     and   two     proc- 
esses of     picking.     The  usual     points 
that  have  already  been  given  in  con- 
nection  with   the  picker  room   should 
be   looked   after  and  need  not  be  re- 
peated here.     The  speed  of  the  beat- 
er on  opener  is  1,050  revolutions  per 
minute,   fan  350  revolutions  per  min- 
ute, and  be  sure  to  keep  hopper  on  this 
machine  at  least  three-fourths  full  of 
cotton  all  the  time  that  the  machine  is 
working.     The  speed  of  a  two-bladed 
rigid    beater    at   the    breaker   is    1,500 
revolutions  per  minute  and  the  speed 
of  the   fan  1,400  revolutions  per  min- 
ute.    The  lap  at  this  machine  weighs 
16  ounces     to   the  yard     or  about  40 
pounds    for    the    total    weight   of   lap. 
The  speed  of  the  beater  at  the  finish- 
er  should   be  about   1,450   revolutions 
per  minute  and  the  fan  1,100  revolu- 
tions   per  miunte,   the  weight   of   the 
lap,  14  ounces,  the  total  weight  of  the 
lap     being  39     pounds.     Cut     roving 
■waste  is  mixed  in  with  the  good  waste 
at  tne  finisher  picker  as  usual.     The 
settings  of  the  card  should  be  about 
as   given   in   a   previous    lesson  when 
the    settings    for     mills     making  ma- 
dium  counts  of  yarn  were  given  in  de- 
+""      The  draft  of  the  card  should  be 
about  100  and  the  speed  of  the  licker- 
in    300  revolutions   per  minute.     The 
wire  used  should  be  No.  34  oncylinder 
and  35  on  doffer  and  flats.    The  cards 
should     be  ground     at  least     once  a 
month   and     stripped    three     times   a 
<day,     for     this  class  of     goods.     The 
-weight  per   yard   of  sliver  should   be 
about    65    grains    and    the    production 
per     week  750  pounds.       The     cards 
should  be  cleaned  thoroughly  at  least 
twice  a  day  and  the  fronts  should  be 
cleaned     at   least  twice     more;      the 
strips  should  be  connected  four  times  a 
day  at  regular  intervals,  for  if  mis  is 
not  done  the  strips  are  apt  to  get  un- 
der the  stripping  comb  and  onto   t^ie 
flats,  thus  bringing  up  the  comb  and 
wire  on  to  the  flats.     The  flats  should 
be  ground  at  least  once  a  month  and 
a  great  deal  of  care  should  be  taken 
-with  the   setting  of  the  grinding  roll. 
becau^-^  if  .his  roll  is  set  heavier  on 
one  side  than  on  the  other  the  cotton 
will  not  be  evenly  carded. 
THREE  PROCESSES  OF  DRAWING. 
Three      processes    of      drawing   are 


used    for     this    class      of   goods,      me 
speed  of  the  front  roll  being  ^..  revo- 
lutions per  minute  and  the  weight  of 
the  sliver     at  the     finisher     drawing 
should  be   72   grains   per   yard.     Pro- 
duction for  60  hours,  1,620  pounds  per 
head   per   week.     A   good   setting  for 
the    rolls   for    I14    inch    staple   would 
be  as  follows:    1  finches  between  front 
and  second  rolls,   1%  inches  between 
second  and  third  rolls  and  1%  inches 
between    third    and    back    rolls.      ^ne 
slubber  rolls     are  read     as     follows: 
Front  roll  to  middle  roll  1%   inches; 
middle  to  back  roh  1%   inches.     The 
slubber   makes    the   sliver   into   a   .55 
hank  roving.     The  hank  roving  at  the 
firstintermediateis   2.00  and  fine   frame 
6.00  hank.     Keep  the  bunches  out  of 
the   roving  as   much   as   possible   and 
change  the  top  leather  rolls  frequent- 
ly.   Watch  all  your  frames  to  see  that 
no  cne  frame     is   making  too     much 
bad   work   either  by  a   poor   hand   or 
through  the  machine  not  being  prop- 
erly regulated.     The  6.00  hank  roving 
is  taken  to   the  spinning     room     and 
spun  into   30s   yarn,     lo  do  this,  the 
following     is       given     as       the     best 
equipped   frame:      For   filling   for   30s 
yarn   most     any  high  grade     spindle 
may  be     used   and   good     results   ob- 
tained;   gauge    of   frame    2%    inches; 
diameter   of   ring   1%    inches;    length 
of    traverse    6    inches    and    twist   per 
inch  19.17.     For  30s  warp  yarn,  gauge 
of     frame  2%    inches;      diameter     of 
ring   1%    inches;    length    of   traverse 
6y2  inches;   twist  per  inch  26.02. 

A  good  size  that  may  be  used  at 
the  slasher  for  this  class  of  goods  is 
as  follows:  Water,  luO  gallons;  corn 
starch,  50  pounds;  tallow,  3  pounds; 
turpentine,  1  gill;   boil  30  minutes. 


Dyeing  Particulars. 
RED. 
3%  per  cent  benzo  fast  red  G  L;   1 
per  cent  chrysophenine;    30   per  cent 
Glauber's;   2  per  cent  sal  soda. 
LAVENDER. 
1/4   per  cent  benzo  fast  violet  R;   2 
ounces   benzo  fast  blue  B  N;    30  per 
cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal  soda. 
NILE   GREEN. 
5  per  cent  katigen  green    2  B;  5  per 
cent     sulphide   sodium;      2   per     cent 
sod'!.;    20  per  cent  Glauber's. 
PINK. 
5  per  cent  diamine  rose,  B  D;  30  per 
cent  Glauber's;   2  per  cent  sal  soda. 
OLIVE. 
3  per  cent  immedial  olive  B;    l^  per 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


63 


cent  immedial  black  N  B;  1  per  cent 
immedial  brown  B;  30  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's; 4  per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  2 
per  cent  soda. 

BLACK. 
15   per  cent   immedial   black  N   N; 

15  per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  30  per 
cent  Glauber's;  3  per  cent  soda. 

NAVY  BLUE. 
4    per  cent   immedial   in-done   B;    5 
per   cent   immedial   indone   R;    9   per 
cent  sodium     sulphide;    30  per     cent 
Glaubers;   3  per  cent  soda. 

DARK    BROWN. 
15   per  cent  tetrazo  sulphur  brown 
B;    1  per  cent  tetrazo  sulphur  black; 

16  per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  30  per 
cent  Glauber's  salt;  3  per  cent  soda. 

DARK  SLATE. 

2  per  cent  immedial  black  N  B;  2 
per  cent  immedial  direct  blue  B;  ^4 
per  cent  immedial  yellow  D;  30  per 
cent  Glauber's  salt;  3  per  cent  soda; 
5  per  cent  sulphide  soda. 

DARK  GREEN. 

8  per  cent  immedial  dark  green  B; 

1  per  cent  immedial  yellow  D;   10  per 

cent  sodium     sulphide;    30     per  cent 

Glauber's;  3  per  cent  soda. 

LIGHT   BROWN. 

3  per  cent  thion  brown  G;  3  per 
cent  sodium  sulphide;  1  per  cent 
soda;   20  per  cent  Gauber's. 


Finishing    Particulars  for   Chambrays. 

STARCH. 

%    pound     corn    starch;     1    gallon 

water,  mix  cold,  and  boil  i/^  hour;  dry 

on  cans  and  give  a  light  calender.    . 


CANTON  FLANNEL. 

Canton  flannel  is  a  narrow,  heavy, 
all-cotton  fabric,  having  a  twill  effect 
on  one  side  of  the  cloth  and  a  long, 
soft  nap  on  the  other  side.  It  is  al- 
ways made  with  one  warp  and  one  ffU- 
img.  The  weave  generally  is  a  ^—7 
twill  for  the  winter  weights,  and  '^ 
twill  for  summer  weight.  The  warp  is 
composed  of  regular  cottoin  yarns  to 
which  a  very  small  percentage  of  size 
has  been  added,  say  2  or  3  per 
cent,  Just  sufficient  to  allow  the 
yam  to  withstand  the  operation  of 
weaving.     The    filling    is    spun    from 


a  good  grade  oif  cotton,  and  is 
made  with  a  slack  twist  to  ena- 
ble it  to  nap  more  readily,  as  this  por- 
tioin  of  the  cloth  is  that  which  gives 
the  falbric  its  one  disdnguishing  feat- 
ure. 

THE  TWILL  WEAVE 
is  used  in  the  construction  of  this  fah- 
ric,  because  it  permits  of  long  regular 
floats  in  the  filling  effect  of  the  weave, 
and  these  floa'ts  present  an  excellent 
surface  from  w'hioh  to  raise  a  nap. 
The  other  side  of  the  cloth,  beinig  the 
warp  effect  of  the  twill  weave,  serves 
to  create  the  diagonal  rib  or  twill  lines. 

These  goods  are  made  to  sell  at  27 
to  30  inches  in  width,  at  atoout  514 
ounces,  winter  weight,  coimposed  of 
1-lOs  to  l-6s  warp  and  lilliug;  also  3^/4 
ounces,  summer  weight,  composed  of 
l-20s  to  l-14s  warp  and  filling,  the 
heavy,  coarse  yarn  in  eaich  instance 
being  the  filling. 

Canton  flannel  can  be  woven  on  any 
siingle  box-iplain  loom. 

Summer    wedg-hit    -three    ounce®. 


DDBOCB 
DaDDBD 

moDmaa 
aamaom 
amaama 

maamoa 


□OnBODOB 
anBUDDBD 
DBDDDBDD 
BQIDBDDa 
DnDBDDDB 

DDBannBD 

DBaDDBOD 

BDnaBBaG 


Winter    weight    five    ounces. 


DOBDaB 
aBDDBD 
BDDBDa 


DDDBaDDB 
DDBQaDBD 
DBDaHBaD 
BaDDBDDD 


The  nap  is  raised  on  the  cloth  by 
running  the  goods  through  a  imachine 
built  especially  foT  this  purpose.  The 
machine  consists  of  an  iron  frame  hav- 
ing a  eerieis  of  rollers  set  within  it,  and 
over  these  rollers  the  cloth  passes.  The 
napping  itself  is  done  by  a  roller  simi- 
lar to  a  fancy  on  a  woolen  card.  The 
cloth  in  passing  over  the  wooden  roll- 
ers at  length  pasises  between  the  wire 
toothed  roller  and  a  wooden  roller. 
The  cloth  is  ibeing  drawn  through  the 
machine  automatically  in  one  direc- 
tion, and  the  wire-toothed  roller  re- 
volves in  the  opposite  direction,  and 
being  set  for  a  nap  of  desired  height  or 
loftiness,  the  wire,  co-ming  in  contact 
with  the  soft  filling  yarn,  brushes  the 
fibre  in  suclh  a  manner  as  to  cause  it 
to  stand  out  from  the  body  of  the  fill- 
ing thread,  hence  the  nap. 

Canton  flannel  :s  taken  direct  from 
the  loom,  measured, napped  and  folded; 
then  is  ready  to  pack  and  sMp. 
CANTON  FLANNEL. 

4  square  inches  equals  9.25  grains. 
271/4  inches  selling  width.  271^4  x  36 
equals  981  x  9.25  equals  9,074.25 
divided   by  4  equals   2,268.56     divided 


54 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


by  437.5  equals  5.185  ounces  per  yard. 
27%  inches  finished. 

15  pieces  warp  x  3  inches  equals  4a 
inches  equals  1.14  grains. 

45  X  7,000  equals  315,000  divided  by 
1.14  equals  276,315.78  divided  5y  36 
equals  7,675.44  divided  by  840  equals 
9.14  or  1-lOs  cotton  warp. 

8  pieces  filling  x  5  inches  equals  40 
inches  equals  1.18  grains. 

40  X  7,000  equals  280,000  divided  by 
1.18  equals  237,288.13  divided  by  iJtt 
equals  6,591.33  divided"  by  840  equals 
7.84  or  l-8s  cotton  filling. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

Reed  540  —  30  3-5  inches,  including 
selvedge  of  32  ends,  4  ends  per  dent. 
5  per  cent  take-up  in  weaving. 

68  ends  per  inch  finished  and  48 
picks  per  inch  finished  equals  &0  ends 
per  inch  in  loom  and  44  picks  per  inch 
in  loom.  —  45s  twill  weave.  1-lOs 
cotton  warp.     l-8s  cotton  filling. 

68  ends  per  inch  x  27  equals  l,8b6 
plus  32  equals  1,868  ends  plus  5  per  cent 
take-up  equals  1,956  yards  of  1-lOs  cot- 
ton warp  equals  3.725  ounces. 

48  picks  X  2714  equals  1,308  yards. 
l-8s  cotton  filling  equals  3.114  ounces. 

3.725    ounces  warp. 
3.114    ounces  fijling. 

6.839    ounces    from    loom. 

6.839  ounces   loom. 
5.185  ounces    finished. 

1.654  ounces   loss   in   napping. 


Carding    and    Spinning    Particulars. 

Canton  flannel,  or  rather  the  counts 
of  yarns  to  make  this  class  of  cloth, 
consists  of  a  low  grade  of  cotton  of 
about  three-fourths  to  one  inch  in  sta- 
ple, and  the  mills  making  Canton  flan- 
nel belong  to  the  first  division  of  mills. 
The  bales  of  raw  stock  are  not  sorted 
out  as  carefully  as  is  the  custom  wlfen 
fine  yams  are  to  be  made,  but  all  the 
bales  should  be  stamped  to  get  the 
length  of  staple  as  near  uniform  as  pos- 
sible. Larger  mixings  are  used  for 
this  class  of  goods  than  when  fine 
goods  are  being  made,  ^because  more 
cotton  is  used,  due  to  a  larger  produc- 
tion being  turned  off  at  each  process. 
The  cotton  is  sometimes  passed 
througTi  a  bale  breaker,  but  more  often 
is 

MIXED  BY  HAND, 
1.  e.,  ta,ken  from  the  bale  and  Tbroken 
Into  small  bunc'hes  and  thrown  directly 
into  the  mixing  bin.  The  cotton  is  al- 
lowed to  stand  as  long  as  possible  to 
dry  out  and  is  then  put  through  the 
opener.  In  some  mills  the  wasite  from 
the  oomtter  and  card  is  put  into  the 
mixings  in  very  small  proportions,  but 


more  generally  only  the  good  waste 
is  put  in.  The  speed  of  the  beater 
should  be  1,050  revolutions  per  minute, 
it  being  remembered  that  the  lower 
grades  of  cotton  are  dirtier  than  the 
higher  grades  and  longer  stapled  cot- 
ton. It  may  seem  strange  to  some  at 
our  readers  that  the  speed  of  the  beat- 
er of  the  opener  is  1,050  revolutions  per 
minutes  for  both  low,  medium  and  even 
high  grades  of  cotton,  but  it  must  be 
remembered  that  the  sitaples  of  the  cot- 
tons differ  and  the  speed  of  the  beater 
really  is  'based  on  so  many  blows  or 
beats  per  minute;  so  that  cotton  having 
a  staple  of  three-fourths  an  inch  re- 
ceives twice  as  many  beats  per  inch 
as  cotton  one  and  one-half  Inches  in 
length,  all  other  conditions  remaining 
the  same.  The  above  not  only  applies 
to  the  beaters  on  the  openers,  but  also 
to  all  the  pickers.  In  these  lessons  it 
is  taken  for  granted  that  a  two-oladed 
beater  of  the  ridged  type  is  used,  and 
for  a  three-bladed  beater,  the  speed 
should  be  less,  or  as  two  is  to  three. 
Special  speeds  should  be  used  for  other 
makes  of  beaters,  such  as  the  vertical 
beater,  porcupine  beater  and  Kirsch- 
ner  beaters.  T'wo  processes  of  picking 
are  used.  The  weigiht  per  yard  of 
lap  is  40  pounds  or  16  ounces  to  the 
yard.  The  speed  of  the  finisiher  beater 
is  1,450  revolutions  per  minute,  and  the 
finished  lap  weighs  39  pounds  or  141/0 
ounces  to  the  yard.  The  bars  under 
the  beaters  should  not  be  too  close  to- 
gether so  that  the  dirt  and  foreign  mat- 
ter in  the  cotton  cannot  drop  through 
into  the  waste  recepticle  after  it  has 
been  separated  from  the  cotton  and  tlie 
dirt,  etc.,  s'hould  be  thus  removed  at 
regular  intervals  sio  as  not  to  choke 
these  beater  bars  and  thus  allow  the 
dirt  to  pass  through  with  tne  good  cot- 
ton. This  class  of  goods  should  be 
carded  on  coarse  wire.     The 

DRAFT  OF  THE  CARD 
s'hould  not  exceed  100,  and  a  draft  of  90 
is  much  better  as  the  stock  will  be 
handled  better.  The  speed  of  the  beat- 
er should  be  300  revolutions  per  minute 
and  a  26-inch  diameter  doffer  should  be 
used  when  possible.  The  production  of 
the  card  should  be  from  900  to  1,000 
pounds  of  sliver  per  week  of  60  hours. 
Two  processes  of  drawing  are  used,  the 
speed  of  the  front  roll  at  each  be- 
ing 400  revolutions  per  minute,  the 
weight  of  the  sliver  at  the  finisher  be- 
ing 70  grains  per  yard,  six  ends  being 
put  up  at  the  back.  The  hank  roving 
made  at  the  slubber  should  be  about 
.50,  or,  say,  .55.  This  is  made  into 
1.00  hand  at  the  first  intermediate  and 
into  a  4.00  roving  at  the  second  inter- 
mediate.   The  1.00  hank  roving  is  spun 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


55 


into  a  soft  twisted  6-oount  cotton  yam 
in  the  spinning  room,  and  the  4.00  is 
made  into  20s  soft  twist  yarn.  A  warp 
frame  to  malte  6s  should  have  the  fol- 
lowing particulars:  Gauge  of  frame 
3  inches,  diameter  of  ring  2^, 
inches,  length  of  traverse  7  inches,  or 
even  more  than  this  length  may  be 
used.  For  a  filling  frame  for  2Ds,  use 
2%-inch  gauge  of  frame,  iy2  inch 
diameter  of  ring  and  QV2  inches  ieng[»a 
of  traverse.  Remember  that  this  class 
of  goods  requires  a  soft  twist. 


Dyeing   Particulars. 

The  pieces  are  run  through  the 
mapping  machines  and  the  fihre  well 
raised,  before  the  dyeing  operation. 

The  pieces  are  dyed  in  the  jig  ma- 
chine, or  continuous  dyeing  machine, 
wthere  the  pieces  are  run  over  rollers, 
6-10  times  through  the  dyeing  liquor, 
and  then  passed  through  two  squeeze 
rollers.  In  the  continuous  machine  the 
nap  is  not  laid  as  much  as  in  the  jig. 

The  colors  generally  dyed  are  one  dip 
direct  colors,  bright  shades  being  most- 
ly called  for. 

LIGHT  BLUB. 

One  per  cent  tetrazo  sky  blue;  20  per 
cent  Glauber's;  1  per  cent  sal  soda. 

LIGHT    BROWN. 
Two  per  cent  tetrazo  brown  B;    ^ 
per  cent  tetrazo  yellow  D;  25  per  cent 
Glauber's;  1  per  cent  sal  soda. 

PINK. 
One-half   per   cent   diamine    rose    B 
D;  15  per  cent  Glauber's;  1  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

RED. 
Four  per  cent  benzo  purpurine  4  B; 
30  per  cent  Glauber's;  3  per  cent  sal  so- 
da. 

HELIOTROPE. 
One-half  per  cent  benzo  fast  violet 
R;  1/4  per  cent  benzo  fast  blue  B  N;  20 
per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal  soda. 

GREEN. 
Three  per  cent  diamine  green  G;   V?. 
per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow  B;  30  per 
cent  Glauber's;  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 

SCARLET. 
Four  per  cent  diamine  scarlet  B;  30 
per  cent  Glauber's;  ?,  per  cent  sal  soda. 
OLIVE. 
Two  per  cent  benzo  dark  green  G  G; 
2  per  cent  ohrysophenine;   30  per  cent 
Glauber's;  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 
ORANGE. 
Two  per  ceit  benzo  fast  orange  S;  30 
per  c  nt  Glaaber's;  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 


BLUE. 

Four  per  cemt  diamine  brilliant  Mue 
G;  30  per  cent  Glauber's;  3  per  cemt  sal 
soda. 

ECRU. 

One-quarter  per  cent    immedial  yel- 
low D:  %  per  cent  immedial  cutch  G; 
2  per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  2  per  cent 
soda;  20  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 
SLATE. 

One-.half  per  cent  benzo  fast  black; 
Yz  per  cent  benzo  fast  blue  B  N;  30  per 
cent  Glauber's  salt;  2  per  cent  sal  soda. 
MAROON. 

Three  per  cent  diamine  fast  red  F; 
1  per  cent  diamine  bordeaux  B;  30  per 
cent  Glaubeir's;  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 

When  the  pieces  are  dyed,  well 
rinsed  and  dryed,  they  are  run  tnrough 
the  napping  machine  to  finish  the 
goods  and  raise  the  fibres. 


DUCK. 


Duck  is  a  heavy  weight,  single  cloth 
fabric,  made  from  all-cotton  yams. 
But  one  warp  and  one  filling  are  neces- 
sary and  these  are  usually  of  coarse, 
two-ply  yarns  woven  into  a  cloth  hav- 


□■aanaaa 

■OaDBDBD 
DBDIDarn 
■DBaBDBD 

aaamamcm 
mauiimama 
naDBDana 
aaa^aaaa 

Desisn 


nanaanna 
onaDDoaD 
DaancaDo 
anaaaDDn 

Drawmg-in  Draft 

□aaaPDBa 

aBDCEBGD 
Reed  Plan 


ing  a  high  texture.  Duck  has  a  stiTT, 
hard  feel,  which  fact  imparts  to  it  the 
splendid  wearing  qualities  for  which  it 
is  popularly  known  as  a  staple  ma- 
terial. It  is  used  principally  in  the 
manufacture  of  sails,  tents,  car  cur- 
tains, etc.,  or  for  any  other  purpose, 
requiring  a  good  water-tight  fabric, 
which  will  withstand  rough  usage. 
Duck  is  made 

IN  A  VARIETY  OF  GRADES 
weighing  from  7  ounces  to  the  yard,  27 
inches  wide,  to  25^4  ounces  per  yard, 
60  inches  wide.  The  lighter  weights  in 
this  fabric  are  used  extensively  for 
awnings.  These  goods  are  eitheir  stripes 
or  solid  colors  and  are  never  plaided. 

The  majority  of  these  goods  are  made 
all  white. 

Nearly  all  known  textile  colors  are 
at  times  used  in  making  color  effects 
in  this  line,  the  most  popular  being 
dark  brown  and  white,  indigo  blue  and 
white,  tan  and  white,  tan  and  white 
twist  and  tan;  all  of  which  are  fast 
colors. 


5G 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


Duck,  being  a  hard,  stiff  fabric, 
caused  by  using  coarse  yarn  at  higti 
texture,  necessitates  tbe  use  of 

A  HEAVIER  LOOM 
than  that  used  for  an  ordinary  cloth. 
The  duclc  loom  was  built  for  this  very 
purpose,  and  is  entirely  satisfactory,  as 
it  is  a  plain,  single  box  cam  loom,  each 
part  being  heavier  than  its  correspond- 
ing part  in  an  ordinary  light  running 
plain  loom. 

Duck  is  made  also  in  light  weights 
for  use  as  an  outing  trousering  for  men 
in  solid  black;  also  in  paie  blue,  ecru, 
pink,  etc.,  for  ladies'  shirtwaist  suits. 

To  finish  this  fabric,  it  is  taken  from 
the  loom  and  measured,  then  washed 
and  sized,  then  dried  and  pressed. 

If  a  fancy,  solid  color  is  desired,  the 
goods  are  dyed  in  the  piece  after  the 
first  washing. 

DUCK   (AWNING  STRIPE). 

4  square  inches  equals  11.7  grains. 
31  inches  wide  finished. 

31  X  36  equals  1,116  x  11.7  equals 
1,305.72  divided  by  4  equals  3,264.3 
divided  by  437.-5  equals  7.461  ounces  per 
yard,  31  inches  wide. 

15  pieces  tan  warp  yarn  x  2^/^  inches 
equals  37%  inches  equals  1.6  grains. 
371/^  X  7,000  equals  262,500  divided  by 
1.6  equals  164,062  divided  by  36  equals 
4,557  divided  by  840  equals  2-12s  cotton. 

7  pieces  tan  filling  yarn  x  2%  inches 
equals  17i/^  inches  equals  .2  grains. 
17y2  X  7,000  equals  122,500  divided  by 
2  equals  6,125,000  divided  by  36  equals 
17,013  divided  by  840  equate  l-20s  cot- 
ton. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

Reed  900 — 2  ends  per  dent,  31  inches 
finished  width.  20  per  cent  take-up  in 
weaving. 

52  ends  per  inch  finisihed  and  38  picks 
per  inch  finished  equals  50  ends  per 
Inch  reed  and  36  picks  per  inch  loom. 

B2  X  31  =  1,612  ends  +  20  per  cent  take-up 

=  2,015  yards  2-12s  warp =  6.396  oz. 

38  X  31  =  1,178  yards  l-20s  filling =  1.121  oz. 

7.517  oz. 

Warp  pattern:  fancy  colored  (broad) 
EPtripes,  plain  weave  — -. 

(HEAVY)   DUCK   (ARMY). 

4  square  inches  equals  17.2  grains. 
281^  inches  finished  width.  28i/S  x  36 
equals  1,026  x  17.2  equals  17,647.2 
divided  by  4  equals  4,411.8  divided  by 
437.5  equals  10.08  ounces  per  yard. 

17  pieces  warp  yarn  x  2i^  inches 
equals  421^  inches  equals  2.4  grains. 
421/^  X  7,000  equals  297,500  divided  by 
2.4  equals  123,958.3  divided  by  36  equals 
3,443.3  divided  'by  840  equals  i^  or  3-12s 
cotton. 

10    pieces    filling    yarn    x    2    inches 


equals  20  inches  equals  .5  grains.  20  x 
7,000  equals  140,000  divided  by  .5  equals 
2,800,000  divided  by  36  equals  77,777 
divided  by  840  equals  1-9  or  2-18s  cot- 
ton. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

Reed  800—2  ends  per  dent,  2gy2 
inches  finished  width,  31  inches  in  reed, 
29  picks  per  inch  filling.  20  per  cent 
equals  take-up  in  weaving,  shrinkage 
in  length  finishing.  8  ^er  cent  equals 
contraction  in  width  in  weaving. 

48  ends  per  inch  finished  and  32  picks 
per  inch  finished  equals  44  ends  per 
inch  reed  and  29  picks  per  inch  loom. 

48  ends  per  Inch  x  28%  Inches  =  1,368  ends 
+  20%  =  1,710  yards  3-12 =    8.14  oz. 

32  picks  per  inch  x  28%  inches  =  912  yards 
2-18    =    1,93  oz. 


10.07  oz. 


Plain  weave 


(HEAVY)    DUCK    (CAR   CURTAINS). 

Reed  800—2  ends  per  dent,  20  per 
cent  take-up  in  weaving. 

48  ends  per  inch  Lnished  and  29  picks 
per  inch  finished  equals  44  ends  per 
inch  in  reed  and  26  picks  per  inch  in 
loom. 

38  inches  wide  finished  equals  16 
ounces  per  yard. 

2-8s  cotton  warp  and  filling,  50  inches 
wide,  equals  21  ounces. 

Warp  stripe  patterns,  60  inches  wide, 
equals  25^/4  ounces. 

Filling  all  white,  plain  weave. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Duck  is  made  from  various  grades 
of  raw  cotton,  according  to  the  use  to 
which  it  is  going  to  be  applied.  Even 
Sea  Island  cotton  ot  the  longest  sta- 
ple has  been  used  to  make  duck  cloth, 
but  this  is  the  exception  rather  than 
the  rule.  When  the  longer  and  higher 
grades  of  raw  stock  are  used,  the  cloth 
made  is  generally  used  for  sail,  and  the 
Sea  Island  cotton  was  used  to  make 
into  duck  for  one  of  the  yachts  which 
raced  for  the  international  cup.  For 
the  average  use,  however, 

THE  STOCK  USED 
is  oif  aibout  one  inch  staple  and  of  a 
medium  low  grade  of  cotton.  The  class 
of  mills  making  duck  belongs  to  the 
first  division  of  mills  as  given  in  a  pre- 
vious lesson.  The  cotton  is  put 
through  a  bale  breaker  and  from  here 
is  passed  on  to  the  mixing  bin.  At 
this  bin  good  waste  is  mixed  in,  and 
sometnmeis,  in  the  lower  classes  of 
ducking,  comber  waste  and  card  waste 
are  mixed  in  in  small  quantities.  When 
waste  is  mixed  with  raw  stock,  it  is 
mixed  in  certain  fixed  proportions,  and 
should  not  be  done    in     a     haphazard 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


57 


way,  because  waste  always  makes  the 
mixture  give  more  or  less  troulble  while 
in  the  earlier  processes  of  handling 
than  is  the  case  when  cotton  is  used 
by  itselif.  The  cotton,  after  being 
mixed,  is  allowed  to  stand  as  long  as 
possible  before  using,  for  reasons  al- 
ready given  in  previous  lessons,  and 
then  is  run  through  an  opener  and  two 
processes  of  picks.  As  the  lower 
grades  of  cotton  are  generally  dirtier 
than  the  higher  grades,  a 

HIGHER   SPEED   OF   THE    B^'ATEK 

IS  REQUIRED, 
SO  that  the  speed  of  the  opener  should 
be  about  1,100  revolutions  per  minute, 
while  the  speed  of  the  breaker  picker 
should  be  at  least  1,.500  revolutions  per 
mimite,  while  the  spieed  of  the  beater 
of  the  finisher  picker  should  be  1,450 
revolutions  per  minute,  or  about  i'Z 
beats  per  inch  of  stock. 

The  lap  at  the  breakers  should  weigh 
at  least  40  pounds  or  16  ounces  to  the 
yard,  while  at  the  finisher  picker  the 
lap  should  weigh  39  pounds  or  about  1') 
ounces  to  the  yard.  If  waste  is  usied 
in  the  mixture,  generally  a  great  deal 
Off.  trouble  is  found  from  what  is  called 
licking,  i.  e.,  where  the  lap  does  not 
unroll  as  it  should,  but  layers  adhere 
to  one  another.  If  the  lap  is  not  fixed 
It  will  be  seen  that 

UNEVEN  YARN  WILL  RESULT. 
There  are  various  causes  for  laps  lick- 
ing, two  of  the  principal  ones  being  the 
presence  of  too  much  waste  in  the  mix- 
ture, the  remedy  for  which  is  obvious; 
and  second,  that  the  current  of  air  in 
the  picker  is  not  properly  directed  so 
that  the  greater  part,  if  not  all  the  cot- 
ton, after  it  has  passed  the  beater,  Is 
not  blown  as  it  should  be  onto  the  top 
cage,  but  the  air  is  so  directed  ttiat  the 
cotton  falls  on  both  cages  and  a  split 
in  the  lap  is  bound  to  occur  and  cause 
licking  at  the  next  process.  Licking  is 
always  the  cause  of  a  great  deal  of 
trouble  and  should  be  stopped  as 
quickly  as  possiible.  The  lap  is  passed 
onto  the  card,  which,  for  this  class  of 
goods,  is  provided  with  a  heavy  wire. 
The 

DRAFT  OF  THE  CARD 
should  be  about  90  to  100.  The  sliver 
should  weigh  at  least  65  grains  to  the 
yard  and  the  production  should  be  as 
large  as  possible,  a  good  average 
ranging  from  900  to  1,000  pounds  per 
week.  Cards  should  be  stripped  on  this 
class  of  goods  three  times  a  day,  and 
some  overseers  advocate  four  times  a 
day,  but  this  extra  stripping  is  to  be 
questioned  as  to  advisability.  The 
speed  of  the  licker-in  for  this  class  of 
goods   is   300   revolutions   per   minute. 


The  cotton  sliver  is  passed  througli 
three  processes  of  drawing,  the  weight 
of  the  finished  slivers  being  70  grams. 
From  'here  it  is  passed  to  the  slubber 
and  made  into  .55  hank  roving.  From 
here  it  is  passed  through  the  first  in- 
termediate and  made  into  1.10  hank, 
and  onto  the  second  intermediate  and 
made  into  3.00  hank.  From  here  it  is 
passed  to  the  spinning  room.  For  awn- 
ing stripes,  this  three  hank  roving  is 
made  into  12s  warp  and  20s  filling,  and 
for  coarser  ducking  into  12s  warp  and 
18s  filling.  Good  specifications  for  »■ 
filling  ring  frame  are  as  follows:  Gauge 
of  frame,  2%  inches;  diameter  of  ring, 
1%  inches;  length  of  traverse,  6%r 
inches;  and  for  a  warp  ring  frame, 
gauge  of  frame,  3  inches;  diameter  of 
ring,  2%  inches;  traverse,  7  inches. 
The  yarn  is  then  taken  to  the  twister 
and  doubled  as  required. 


Dyeing  Particulars. 
FOR  AWNING  DUCKS. 
As  the  colors  for  this  fabric  must 
be  fast  as  possible  to  sunlight  ancl 
rain,  so  the  color  will  not  fade,  or  run 
into  the  white  stripes,  only  absolutely 
fkst  colors  are  dyed.  The  yarn  is  gen- 
erally dyed  in  the  warp. 

INDIGO  BLUE. 
Indigo  blue  has  been  dyed  for  these 
goods   until   recently,     but     immedial 
blues  have  been  found  to  withstand  ex- 
posure even  better  than  indigo. 

Four  and  one-half  per  cent  imme- 
dial indone  B;  41/2  per  cent  immedial 
indone  R;  9  per  cent  sulphide  sodium; 
3  per  cent  soda,  and  30  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's. 

TURKEY  RED. 

First,  mordant  with  a  solution  of 
alizarine  oil,  10  per  cent;  squeeze  and 
dry;  heat  of  bath  200  degrees  F. 

Second,  pass  through  acetate  of  alu- 
mina at  8  degrees  Tw.;  dry  in  hot  air. 

Third,  dung  with  cow  dung  and 
ctoalk,  at  120  degrees  Tw.,  and  rinse. 

Fourth,  dye  with  10  per  cent  aliza- 
rine, zO  per  cent.  2  per  cent 
alizarine  oil,  %  per  cent  tannic  acid; 
get  up  to  boil  lin  45  minutes;  boil  one 
hour. 

Fifth,  dry  without  washing  and  oil 
5  per  cent  alizarine  oil;  dry. 

Sixth,  steam  in  steamimg  box  one 
hiour. 

Seventh,  soap  in  three  clean  baths 
till  warps  are  clean. 

BUFF. 

Pass  through  solution  10  gallons 
water,  one  pint  nitrate  iron,  33  degree* 
Tw.,  squeeze,  pass  through  solution  IT) 
gallons   water,  one  pint  caustic  soda. 


S8 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     G'lOSSARY 


and  rinse.  Repeat  operation  till  shade 
is  dark  enough;  rinse  well. 

CHROME  YELLOW. 

Pass  through  solution  10  gallons 
■water,  one  pound  white  sugar  lead, 
squeeze,  pass  through  solution  10  gal- 
lons water,  one  pound  bichrome,  four 
pounds  common  salt;   rinse  well. 

CHROME  ORANGE. 

Pass  through  solution  of  sugar  lead, 

24  degrees  Tw.,  squeeze.  Pass  througn 
hot  lime  water,  squeeze,  dhrome,  two 
ounces  to  gallon  boiling,  squeeze;  run 
■throug'h  hot  lime  water  and  rinse. 

LIGHT  BROWN. 

Four  per  cent  immedial  cutch  C; 
•4  per  cent  immedial  brown  B;  8  per 
•cent  sulphide  soda;  3  per  cent  soda; 
30  per  cenit  Glauber's;  rinse,  after 
treated    to    make    color    much    faster: 

2  per  cent  blue    stone;     2     per     cent 
■  chrome;   3  per  cent  acetic  acid;    rinse 

and  soap. 

DARK  BROWN. 

Six  per  cent  immedial  cutch  G;  6  per 
cent  immedial  bro^wn  B;  V^  per  cent 
immedial  blacK  N  R;  10  per  cent  sul- 
phide sodium;  3  per  cent  soda;  30  per 
•cent  Glauber's;  rinse,  after  treat:  2  per 
cent  blue  stone;  2  per  cent  chrome;  3 
j)£r  cent  acetic  acid;  rinse  and  soap. 

MAROON. 

Six  per  cent  immedial  maroon  B;  B 
per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  3  per  cent 
soda;  30  per  cent  Glauber's;  rinse, after 
treat:  1  per  cent  blue  stone;  1  per  cent 
•chrome;  3  per  cent  acetic  acid;  rinse 
and  soap. 

LIGHT    GREEN. 

Three  per  cent  immedial  indone  B; 
'2  per  cent  immedial  yellow  D;  5  per 
-cent  sulphide  sodium;  3  per  cent  soda; 

25  per  cent  Glauber's;  after  treat;  3 
per  cent  blue  stone;  3  per  cent  chrome; 

J3  per  cent  acetic  acid. 

DARK  GREEN. 

Eight  per  cent  katigen  indigo  B;  4 
per  cent  kdtigen  chrome  brown  5  G;  8 
per  cent  sulpliide  sodium;  3  per  cent 
soda;  2.5  per  cent  Glauber's;  after 
treat:  3  per  cent  blue  stone;  3  per  cent 
chrome;  3  per  cent  acetic  acid;  rinse 
-and  soap. 

BLACK. 

Fifteen  per  cent  immedial  black  N 
■N;  13  per  cent  sodium  sulph.de;  3  per 
cent  soda;  30  per  cent  Glauber's;  rinse, 
after  treat:   3  per     cent     blue     stone; 

3  per  cent  chrome;  3  per  cent  acetic 
acid;    rinse  and  soap. 


DARK  SLATE. 

Three  per  cent  immedial  Mack  V 
Ex.;  3  per  cent  sodum  sulphide;  2  per 
cent  soda;  20  per  cent  Glauber's;  rinse, 
after  treat:  1  per  cent  blue  stone;  1 
per  cent  chrome;  2  per  cent  acetic 
acid;  rinse  and  soap. 

ARMY  DUCK. 

Army  duck  has  been  always  dyed  the 
old,  reliable  cutch  and  chrome  brown. 
First,  pass  through  a  boiling  solution 
of  cutch  logwood  and  fustic  or  cutch 
alone,  and  then  through  solution  or 
boiling  chrome  and  sometimes  a  weak 
solution  of  nitrate  of  iron  for  after 
treatment;    rinse  and  soap. 

Army  duck  can  be  dyed  with  sul- 
phur colors:  5  per  cent  immedial  cutch 
0;  1  per  cent  immedial  brown  R  R; 
rinse  and  treat:  1%  per  cent  blue 
stone;  2  per  cent  chrome;  rinse  and 
soap. 


STRIPES-HICKORY  STRIPES, 


This  is  an  all  cotton  light-weight 
fabric,  averaging  about  five  ounces  per 
yard  finished.  In  appearance  it  resem- 
bles ticking,although  it  is  of  lower  tex- 
ture and  has  a  softer  feel,  due  to  the 
process  of  finishing.  It  is  always 
woven  with  a  2__  regular  45  degrees 
right-hand  twill  (warp  effect)  and  in 
two  colors,  blue  and  white  or  brown 
and  white  in  the  warp  and  all  white 
filling,  thus  forming  warp  stripe  pat- 
terns. 

It  is  used  in  the  rural  mountain  dis- 
tricts of  a  few  of  the  middle  and 
southern  states  as  a  material  for 
men's  pants  and  shirts,  as  these  two 
garments  constitute  about  all  the 
clothing  necessary  in  such  sections  for 
most  all  seasons  of  the  year.  It  is 
A  TOUGH  PLIABLE  FABRIC, 
having  good  wearing  qualities  and  on 
the  principle  of  economy  is  well 
adapted  to  the  needs  of  the  poorer 
white  laboring  class  of  the  South. 

This  fabric  is  made  of  regular  cot- 
ton yarns,  l-14s  and  1-1 6s  warp  and 
filling,  and  is  woven  to  finish  about  27 
inches  in  width. 

It  can  be  woven  on  any  plain 
loom  and  is  usually  drawn  in 
on     cotton     harness,     as     these       are 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


59 


cheaper,  in  the  estimation  of  the 
southern  cotton  manufacturer,  as  he 
can  use  up  old  stock  in  the  spinning 
of  cotton  harness  cord,  and  in  this 
manner,  to  a  certain  extent,  create  a 
by-product  as  against  the  cost  of 
equipping  the  plant  with  wire  heddles 
and  other  necessary  findings — harness 
rods,  frames,  etc. 

To  finish  hickory  stripe,  the  cloth  is 
taken  from  the  loom  and  measured, 
then  it  is  sheared,  sized  and  pressed,  it 
is  then  rolled  or  lapped  and  is  ready 
to  pack  and  ship. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

Four  square  inches  equals  9.25  grain. 
57x36    equals    972x92    equals      8,991.00 


□■■CKB 
■GMBCK 

□■■caa 

■■DBBG 

■ig.aBGa 


ODBDna 
oaanaa 

■DOBGD 


-divided  by  4  equals  2,247.75  divided  by 
437.5  equals  5.137  ounces  per  5'ard. 

15  pieces  blue  warp  yarn  times  4 
inches  equals  GO  inches  equals  one 
grain.  60x7,000  equals  420,000  divided  by 
.1  equals  4,200,000  divided  by  36  equals 
116.666  divided  by  840  equals  l-14s  cot- 
ton. 15  pieces  white  warp  yarn  times  4 
inches  equals  60  inches  equals  .1 
grain.  15  pieces  white  filling  yarn 
times  4  inches  equals  60  inches  equals 
.9  grains.  60x7,000  equals  420,000  div- 
ided by  .9  equals  466,666  divided  by  36 


10%  contraction  in  width  In  wearlnB. 
5%  take-up  in  length  in  weaving. 
6  2-3%  shrinliage  in  length  in  finishing. 
6%  size  on  warp- 


Warp   pattern. 
6  Blue. 
3  White. 
S  Blue. 
3  White. 

15  ends  per  repeat. 


equals  12,962.96  divided  by  840  equalb 
l-14s  cotton. 

Reed  800— -3  ends  per  dent,  30 
inches  in  reed,  including  selvedge, 
27  inches  finished.  Filling  —  all 
white.  74  ends  per  inch  finished  and 
60  piclvs  per  inch  finished  equals  6G 
ends  per  inch  loom,  56  picks  per  inch 
loom. 

74  ends  per  inch  times  27  inches 
equals  1,998  ends  plus  24  selvedge 
equals  2,022  ends;  1,998  divided  by  15 
equals  133  repeats  plus  3  ends. 


9  blue  ends  per  pattern  times  133 
equals  1,197  plus  3  equals  1,200  blue 
ends.  6  white  ends  per  pattern  times 
133  equals  798  white  ends,  24  white 
ends  selvedge. 

1,200   biue   ends   +   5%   take-up   = 

1,263   yards   1-14   cot.    = 1,718  ozs. 

798  white  ends  +  5%  take-up  =  840 

yards  1-14  cot.    = 1.142  ozs. 

24    white    selvedge    =    25.26    yards 

1-14  cot.   = 034  ozs. 

56  picks  white  filling  x  30  =  1,680 

yards  1-14  cot.   = 2.285  ozs. 

5.179  ozs.  per  yd. 

Finish  equals  sizing  and  pressing 
weave  — j-  warp  effect  45  degrees  twill. 


Dyeing   Particulars. 

BLUE. 

Dye  in  the  warp — 114  per  cent  im- 
medial  indone  3B,  4  per  cent  immedial 
indone  B.  4  per  cent  sodium  sulphide, 
3  per  cent  soda,  30  per  cent  Glauber's, 
rinse  well. 

DARK  SLATE. 

4  per  cent  immedial  black  NR,  4  per 
cent  sodium  sulphide,  3  per  cent  soda, 
20  per  cent  Glauber's,  rinse  well. 

BLACK. 

1  per  cent  katigen  black  S  W,  15  per 
cent  sodium  sulphide,  3  per  cent  soda, 
30  per  cent  Glauber's,  rinse  well. 

DARK  BROWN. 

15  per  cent  katigen  brown  V,  15  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium,  3  per  cent  soda, 
30  per  cent  Glauber's,  rinse  well; 
starching,  one  gallon  water,  one-half 
pound  cornstarch,  mix  cold,  boil  one 
iiour,  run  through  starch  mangle  and 
dry,  give  a  light  calendering. 


TICKING. 


Ticking  is  a  single  cloth,  of  either 
medium  or  heavy  weight,  and  is  com- 
posed of  single  cotton  yarns  from  l-14s 
to  l-22s  in  warp  and  filling  or  com- 
bination of  both,  such  as  18s  warp  and 
20  filling.  It  is  a  good,  stout  cloth, 
having  fine  wearing  qualities,  and  is 
used  principally  for  making  bed  ticks 
and  pillow  and  bolster  cases.  It  is 
generally  made  with  what  is  known  as 
a  bed-tick  weave  or  — j^  or  '■ — j  twill, 
either  right  or  left  handed  45s  twill 
broken  or  herring-bone.  It  can  be 
woven  in  any  power  loom,  but  is  best 


GO 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


adapted  to  and  most  always  woven  in 
the 

PLAIN  SINGLE  BOX  LOOMS. 

Ticking  belongs  to  the  family  of 
stiff,  hard  face  cotton  fa,brics.  This 
feature  is  created  by  using  twill 
weaves  (warp  effect),  and  these 
weaves  permit  of  the  use  of  a  more 
than  ordinary  high  warp  texture.     For 

instance,  take  ^  twill:  In  this 
weave  there  are  intei.lacinijs  of 
each  warp  thread  in  every  four  picks 
of  filling,  thus  allowing  ends  to  lie 
closely  together — hence  peTmittlng  an 
increase  in  ends  per  inch. 

These  goods  are  usually  made  in 
two  colored  warp  patterns — dark  blue 
and  white,  red  and  white. 

WHITE   FILLING   IS   USED   IN   ALL 

CASES. 

Fast  colors  should  be  used  in  warp 
as    bed-ticks    are    sometimes    ripped 

BDBBaDBBcaaSaBBaaBBBaaaaBDBBBDBB 

BBDBBBaBBBBDBBBaBBBDBBBaBBDBBBDa 
BBBDBBBaBBaBBBaBBBDBBBDBBBBDBBBD 
□BBaaBaaaaBBBDBBBDBBBaaaDBBBaBBB 
BaBBBaBBaBBBDBBBaBBBDBBBBaBBBDBB 

BBaaaaDBBBBaaBB  BBBDaaBnaaDBBBDa 
BaaDBBBOBaDaBaaaBaDBBaGBBBBDaaBD 

De.sign  and  Weave. 

nQnanDnannanDnaDnaBDnnaDpDDBnnnB 

aDBDDDBDDDnBDDDBDDDBDDaBDDBngDBg 
nBDDDBDDanDnBDDDBDnDBDDDDBDnDIIDa 

aaaaaDDaDBGpDanQDBDDDBDaBDDaaDaa 
Drawing--in   Draft. 

OnanBBBBDDDDBBBBnnDDBBBBnOOnBBBB 
BBBBaCDaBBBBaDDDBBBBDnaDBBBBaDaD 

Reed    Plan. 

open  and  the  cloth  washed.  In  this 
case  the  light  and  air  renew  the  color- 
ing on  the  yarns. 

Ticking  is  woven  with  from  60  to  84 
ends  and  picks  per  inch  in  the  loom," 
according  to  graide  required.  The 
greater  the  number  of  warp  threads 
the  stouter  the  fabric  in  proportion  to 
co'unts  of  yarns  used. 

To  finish  these  goods,  they  are 
brushed  and  sheared  to  remove  all 
lumps  and  foreign  substances  from  the 
face  of  the  cloth.  Then  the  cloth  is 
sized  and  calendered,  which  acts  in 
the  same  manner  as  a  hot  press,  after 
which  the  cloth  is  lapped  or  roilled  into 
bolts,  then  stitched,  smd  is  ready  to 
pack  and  sihip. 

CONSTRUCTION  OF  TICKING. 

Reed  725—33  inches,  4  ends  per  dent. 
1-16S  warp,  l-20s  filling,  74  picks;  12i^ 
per  cent  take-up  in  weaving;  10  per 
cent  size  on  warp,  7  per  cent  size  of 

cloth  in  finish;  ^ — -^herring-bone  twill 
weave;  finish  equals  31i/^  inches,  and 
includes  brushing,  shearing,  sizing 
and  calendering. 


WARP  PATTERN. 
16  White. 
2  Blue. 
2  White. 
8  Blue. 
2  White. 
2  Blue. 
1  square  in.  =  2.9  grains. 

311^  times  36  equals  1,134  square 
inches  times  2.9  equals  3,288.6  grains 
divided  by  437.5  equals  7.51  ounces. 

18  piece  warp  yarn,  2  inches  equals 
36  inches  equals  .55  grains;  36  x  7,000 
equals  252,000  divided  by  .55  equals 
45,818  divided  by  36  equals  12,727 
divided  by  840  equals  l-16s  warp  yarn. 

20  pieces  filling  yarn  li/^  in.  equals 
30  inches  equals  .34  grains. 

30  X  7,000  equals  210,000  divided  by 
.34  equals  617,644  divided  by  36  equals 
17,156  divided  by  840  equals  l-20s  fill- 
ing yarn. 

92  ends  per  inch  finished  equals  86 
in   reed. 

78  picks  per  inch  finished  equals  74 
in    loom. 

92  X  31 1^  equals  2,898  plus  24  equals 
2,922  ends. 

1,473  ends  white  equals  12^^  per  cent 
take--up  equals  1,683  yards. 

l-16s  cotton  warp  equals  2  ounces. 

1,449  ends  blue  equals  12 1^  per  cent 
take-up  equals   1,656  yards. 

l-16s  cotton  warp  equals  1.97  ounces 
plus  22  per  cent  increase  by  dyeing 
equals  2.22  ounces. 

White  warp  yarn'  equals  2  ounces 
plus  blue  warp  yarn  equals  4.22  ounces 
plus  10  per  cent  size  equals  4.64 
ounces. 

78  picks  X  31 1^  equals  2,457  yards 
l-20s  filling  equals  2.34  ounces. 

Warp  weight  equals  4.64  ounces  plus 
filling  weight  equals  2.34  ounces  plus 
7  per  cent  size  in  finishing  equals  7.50. 


Cardinc,  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  yarns  used  in  ticking  are  made 
in  mills  of  the  first  division  as  given 
in  a  previous  article.  The  length  of 
the  raw  stock  used  varies  in  different 
mills  according  to  the  grade  of  tick- 
ing to  be  made,  but  is  generally  % 
to  1%  inches  in  length.  This  does  not 
mean  that  raw  stock  of  from  %  to  1% 
inches  is  used  in  the  same  mixing,  but 
that  the  mixing  is  made  up  of  stock  of 
uniform  length. 

THE  MIXINGS 

for  this  class  of  goods  are  generally 
made  by  hand  and  the  bins  should  be 
made  as  large  as  possible  so  as  to 
accommodate  large  mixings.  It  would 
be  better  to  have  two  large  bins  in- 
stead of  one,  so  that  one  lot  of  raw, 
stock   could  be  opened  and   dried  out 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


61 


while  feeding  Uie  machines  from  the 
other  bin.  On  this  class  of  goods 
comber  waste  is  used  in  some  mills 
and  the  cut  roving  waste  is  also  mixed 
as  has  been  before  stated.  An  opener 
and 

TWO  PROCESSES  OF  PICKING 

are  used  and  the  lap  should  be  made 
as  heavy  as  possible  without,  of 
course,  making  it  so  heavy  that  it  will 
bring  up  the  cards  and  finisher  picker. 
Keep  'the  hopper  of  the  opener  as  full 
as  possible  and  you  will  find  that  an 
evener  lap  will  be  made.  The  speed 
of  the  fan  of  the  opener  should  be 
1,100  revolutions  per  minute.  The 
speed  of  the  beater  (of  a  two-bladed, 
rigid  type)  should  be  at  least  15,000 
revolutions  per  minute,  and  the  weight 
of  lap  about  40  pounds  or  20  ounces  in 
weight  per  yard.  The  lap  is  put  up  at 
the  breaker  and  doubled  four  into  one 
and  delivered  so  as  to  weigh  14i/^ 
ounces  per  yard  or  about  39  pounds  for 
the  whole   lap.     The 

SPEED  OF  THE  BEATER 

on  this  machine  should  be  1,450  revolu- 
tions per  minute.  The  beats  per  inch 
that  the  cotton  would  receive  would 
be  about  42.  See  that  all  your  drafts 
on  the  picker  are  properly  regulated 
so  that  a  lap  will  be  obtained  that  will 
not  split.  Of  course,  this  is  not  the 
only  reason  that  makes  a  lap  split,  but 
it  is  one  of  the  principal  ones.  An- 
other cause  for  split  laps  is  found  in 
putting  too  much  waste  in  the  mixing. 
The  lap  is  then  put  up  at  the  card 
which  should  be  provided  with  coarse 
wire  fillet.     The 

DRAFT  OF  THE  CARD 

should  not  exceed  100.  The  weight  of 
the  sliver  should  be  about  65  grains 
per  yard  and  the  production  about  1,- 
000  pounds  per  week  of  60  hours.  The 
cards  should  be  ground  at  least  once 
every  month,  having  the  grinding  roll- 
ers on  for  at  least  a  half  a  day.  Of 
course,  grinding  means  loss  of  produc- 
tion, but  it  has  to  be  done;  otherwise, 
bad  work  will  result,  and  if  you  keep 
your  wire  sharp  you  will  find  that  you 
will  have  less  trouble  with  your  cards 
and  a  great  deal  less  kicking  on  ac- 
count of  poor  work. 

THE  SETTINGS 
that  should  be  used  for  this  class  of 
goods  have  been  given  in  a  previous 
lesson.  The  card  sliver  should  be  put 
through  two  processes  of  drawing,  the 
sliver  weighing  75  grains  per  yard  at 
the  finisher-drawing  frame.  Remem- 
ber to  never  draw  more  than  you  dou- 


ble. The  sliver  is  passed  through  the 
slubber  and  the  hank  roving  should 
be  about  .40.  Set  the  rolls  for  %-inch 
stock  on  this  machine  as  follows: 
Front  to  middle,  1%  inches;  middle 
to  back,  2  inches.  Two  processes  of  fly 
frames  should  be  used,  the  hank  roving 
being  made  at  the  first  intermediate 
about  1.40,  and  at  the  second  from 
3   to  3.40. 

THE  SPINNING. 

This  roving  is  then  taken  to  the 
spinning  room  where  it  is  spun  into 
the  required  count.  For  16s  the  follow- 
ing would  be  a  good  equipment  for  a 
warp  frame:  gauge  of  spindle,  three 
inches;  diameter  of  ring,  two  inches; 
length  of' traverse,  seven  inches;  and 
for  a  filling  frame:  gauge  of  spindle, 
2%  inches;  diameter  of  ring,  li^ 
inches,  and  lenigth  of  traverse,  from 
6%  to  6%  inches,  according  to  twist 
put  in;  the  more  twist  the  more  length 
of  traverse  may  be  used.  The  produc- 
tion for  a  spinning  frame  for  16s,  with 
the  speed  of  front  roll  139  revolutions 
per  minute,  twist  19  and  revolutions 
of  spindles  8,300,  would  be  about  3.15 
pounds  per  spindle  per  week.  For  a 
filling  frame  for  16s,  with  front  roll 
speed  of  159  revolutions  per  minute, 
twist,  per  inch  13,  speed  of  spindles 
6,500  revolutions  per  minute,  the  pro- 
duction would  be  about  3.34  pounds 
per  S'pindle  per  week. 


Dyeing  Particulars. 

Formerly  ticking  had  only  blue 
stripes  dyed  indigo  blue.  For  some 
time  a  variety  of  colors  have  been  in- 
troduced, and  now  many  colors  are 
used,  some  with  narrow  stripes  mixed 
with  broad  stripes,  having  from  three 
to  five  or  more  different  colors  in  the 
same  pattern. 

BLUE. 

Dyed  with  indigo  or  one  of  the  sul- 
phur blues. 

Eight  per  cent  pyrogene  indigo;  8- 
per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  3  per  cent 
soda  ash;  20  per  cent  common  salt. 

This  color  can  be  aftertreated  with 
1%  per  cent  chrome;  iy2  per  cent  cop- 
per sulphate;  3  per  cent  acetic  acid, 
125  degrees  F. 

ECRU. 

One-quarter  per  cent  tetrazo  cutch 
brown;  %  per  cent  tetrazo  black  N;  2 
per  cent  soda;  20  per  cent  Glauber's 
salt. 

LIGHT  BROWN. 

Three   per  cent  Thion   brown  G;    Z 


62 


A     COTTON     FABRIOS     GLOSSARY. 


per  cent   soda;      3  per  cent  sulphide 
soda;  20  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 

LIGHT  SLATE. 

Three-fourths  per  cent  Thion  black 
B;  IVz  per  cent  sal  soda;  1  per  cent 
sulphide  soda;  10  per  cent  Glauber's 
salt. 

RED. 

Three  per  cent  tetrazo  red,  4  B;  2 
per  cent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent  Glaub- 
er's salt. 

DARK  BROWN. 

One  and  one-quarter  per  cent  Thion 
black  B;  5  per  cent  Thion  brown  G; 
3  per  cent  sal  soda;  6  per  cent  sul- 
phide soda;  20  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 

LIGHT  BRONZE. 

One-quarter  per  cent  tetrazo  chlorine 
yellow  G  G;  14  per  cent  tetrazo  black 
N;  1/4  per  cent  tetrazo  brown  R;  1 
per  cent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent  Glaub- 
er's salt. 

DRAB. 

One-eighth  per  cent  benzo  fast  black; 
%  per  cent  chloramine  yellow  M;  1-lG 
per  cent  benzo  fast  red  G  L. 

LIGHT  OLIVE. 

One-half  per  cent  benzo  dark  green 
G  G;   %  per  cent  chrysophenine. 

DARK  OLIVE. 

Four  per  cent  benzo  dark  green  G 
G;  2  per  cent  chrysophenine.  The 
above  three  colors  are  each  dyed  with 
20  per  cent  Glauber's  sialt  and  2  per 
cent  sal  soda. 

DARK  SLATE. 

Two  and  one-quarter  per  cent  benzo 
fast  black;  %  per  cent  benzo  fast  blue 
B  N;  2  per  cent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent 
Glauber's  salt. 

WINE. 

Four  per  cent  benzo  fast  scarlet  8 
B  S;  1  per  cent  benzo  fast  violet  R; 
2  per  cent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent 
Glauber's  salt. 

LIGHT  FAWN. 

One-half  per  cent  diamine  brown  M ; 
%  per  cent  diamine  brown  3  G;  2  per 
cent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent  Glauber's 
salt. 

STEEL. 

One-half  per  cent  diamine  steel  blue 
L;  y2  per  cent  diamine  black  B  H;  14 
per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow  B;  2  per 
cent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent  Glauber's 
salt. 


OSNABURG, 


Osnaburg  is  a  coarse  single  cloth 
composed  of  all  cotton  yarns,  l-16s, 
l-lSs,  l-20s,  warp  and  filling,  and  is 
made  in  warp  stripe  patterns  and  in 
checks,  the  colors  invariably  being 
indigo  blue  and  white  ot  dark  brown 
and  white. 

It  is  manufactured  into  overalls  and 
jumpers  or  mock  shirts,  and  is  used  in 
the  South  by  the  colored  farm  and 
plantation  laborers.  It  is  a  strong  fab- 
ric, having 

EXCELLENT  WEARING  QUALITIES, 

and  is  especially  adapted  to  any  pur- 


O'snaburg. 

pose  wherein  it  must  sustain  rough 
usage.  It  is  occasionally  substituted 
for  canvas  or  duck  in  making  awnings 
for  back  porches  in  northern  cities.  In 
this  case  the  stripe  patterns  are  used. 
The  check  patterns,  "produced  by 
using  the  same  pattern  in  warp  and  fill- 
ing," are  usually  broad  effects,  belong- 
ing, in  fact,  to  the  plaid  order  of  pat- 
terns. These  checks  measure  from  one 
to  two  inches  either  way. 

WOVEN  WITH  A  PLAIN  LOOM. 
Osnaburg  is  always  woven  with  a 
plain  weave  - —  ,  and  in  the  stripe  pat- 
terns the  strips  is  made  with  warp, 
all  white  filling  being  used.  This  line 
can   be   woven   on   any   plain  sheeting 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


63 


loom  as  it  requires  but  one  tilling  box. 
The  check  patterns  are  made  on  Ma- 
son box  loom,  Fairmount  or  Brides- 
burg  loom,  or  any  loom  having  a  box 
motion  attached. 

In  arranging  check  or  plaid  pat- 
terns the  strong,  long  or  broad  way 
of  the  pattern  indicates  the  tilling  and 
the  greatest  number  of  threads  per 
inch  indicate  the  v.^arp,  and  to  square  a 
check  or  plaid  pattern  means  to  prac- 
tically produce  the  same  color  effect 
in  the  filling  as  in  the  warp.  Hence 
the  filling  pattern  (total  number  of 
picks). 

MUST  BE  REDUCED 

so  as  to  create  a  check  or 
plaid  pattern  in  which  the  filling 
arrangement  is  just  noticeably 
longer  in  effect  than  in  the  warp  pat- 
tern, the  supposition  being  that  as 
checks  or  plaids  are  worn  they  are  al- 
ways observed  at  an  angle  of  several 
degrees,  thereby  in  a  sense  overcoming 
any  reasonable  excess  in  the  length  of 
filling  pattern,  as  compared  with  that 
of  the  warp. 

Osnaburg  is  sometimes  sized  in  the 
finishing,  and  at  other  times  is  not, 
this  point  being  optional  with  the  man- 
ufacturer in  accordance  with  purpose 
for  which  the  cloth  is  intended  to  be 
used.  Generally  it  is  taken  from  the 
loom,  measured,  run  through  the 
brusher,  and  after  being  lapped  or 
rolled  is  pressed  and  put  in  the  case 
and  shipped. 


Construction — 30-inch  Finisli. 

Reed,  900 — 33%  inches  in  reed,  in- 
cluding 16  ends  selvedge,  two  ends  per 
dent;  1-lQs  warp  and  filling;  46  picks 
per  inch  filling;  10  per  cent  take-up: 
1,696  plus  16  equals  1,712  ends  in  warp. 
1,696  divided  by  80  equals  21  patterns 
plus  16  ends  plus  selvedge. 

WARP    PATTERN. 

36  blue    1 
20  white  | 

20  WUU6  F  F""°e    '«'"«• 


40  ends  blue  per  pattern  x  21  equals 
840  plus  16  equals  856  ends  blue;  40 
ends  white  per  pattern  x  21  equals  840 
plus  16  equals  8.56  ends  white;  46  picks 
x33%  equals  1.752  yards  filling  equals 
876  yards  blue,  876  yards  white. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

As  the  cloth  under  description  in  this 
issue  is  made  and  used  in  the  South,  it 
is  to  a  great  extent  made  only  in 
southern  mills  and  the  machines  re- 
quired to  produce  this  class  of  yarns 
belong  to  the  first  division  of  mills 
previously  given,  i.  e.,  the  mills  mak- 
ing low  and  medium  count  yarns.  The 
counts  of  the  yarn  required  to  make 
this  class  of  g'oods  vary  from  l-14s  to 
l-20s  warp  and  filling,  but  for  this  arti- 
cle we  will  assume  the  warp  and  fill- 
ing yarns  to  be  l-20s.  These  yarns  are 
made  from  a  short  staple  low-grade 
cotton  of  about  %  inch  staple. 

THE  MIXINGS 

should  be  as  large  as  possible  and  the 
mixing  is  generally  done  by  hand  in 
southern  mills.  It  is  run  through  2 
processes  of  picking  and  an  opener  and 
waste  is  sometimes  used  in  the  mixture, 
i.  e.,  card  strips  and  comber  waste 
(when  it  is  possible  to  obtain  it).  Too 
much  waste  should  not  be  used  because 
of  the  trouble  that  it  gives  on  the  ma- 
chines of  the  card  room,  such  as  lick- 
ing, etc. 

THE  HOPPER 

should  be  kept  as  full  as  possible  so 
that  the  amount  of  cotton  fed  to  the 
opener  will  be  as  uniform  as  possible. 
It  will  be  understood  that  if  the  hop- 
per is  allowed  to  get  almost  empty  be- 
fore filling  it  up  the  lifting  apron 
of  the  hopper  will  not  carry  or  lift  as 
much  cotton  on  its  spikes  and  often- 
times there  will  bo  little  or  no  cotton 
presented  to  the  evener  roller.  This  is 
sure  to  produce  an  uneven  lap  at  the 
front  of  the  breaker  picker.  If  on  the 
other  hand  the  hopper  is  always  kept 
full  of  cotton  the  lifting  apron  will  al- 
ways have  a  surplus  of  cotton  on  it, 
this  surplus  being  struck  off  by  the 
evener  and  dropped  back  into  the  hop- 
per again.  It  will  thus  be  seen  that  to 
keep  the  hopper  more  than  half  full  all 
the  time  is 

ONE  OF  THE  MOST  IMPORTANT 
POINTS 
of  the  picker  room,  because,  if  you  have 
an  uneven  lap  to  start  with,  you  will 
have  to  make  the  succeeding  machines 
overwork  to  obtain  an  even  yarn.  The 
speeds  of  the  various  parts  of  the 
picker  should  be  about  the  same  as 
«1ven  in  the  last  article  and  the  weight 


856  ends  blue  +  10%  take-up  =  951  yards  1-168  =  1.135  ounces) 

856  ends  white  -f-  10%  take>-up  =  951  yards  l-16s  =  1.135  ounces) 

876  yards  1-163  =  1.043  ounces) 

876  yards  l-16s  =1.043  ounces) 


Warp. 
Filling. 


Brush  and  press. 


4.356  ounces. 


C4 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


of  the  finished  lap  should  be  at  least  39 
pounds  at  the  finisher  picker.  Always 
keep  laps  enougrh  of  the  card  room  so 
that,  if  an  accident  happens  to  the 
picking  machinery,  the  cards  will  nor. 
be  stopped  for  laps.  Keep  at  least  10 
per  cent  ahead. 

The  wire  fillet  used  on  the  card.=? 
should  be  coarse,  that  used  on  the  cyl- 
inder being 

ONE  NUMBER  COARSER 
than  that  used  on  the  doffer  and  flats. 
A  great  many  mills  in  the  South  use 
No.  33  wire  on  the  cylinder  and  No.  34 
or  No.  35  on  the  doffer  and  flats.  On 
this  class  of  goods  use  as  large  a  di- 
ameter doffer  as  possible,  either  a  26 
or  27-inch.  Grind  cards  often  and 
keep  top  flats  sharp. because,  if  the  flats 
are  dull,  good  carding  cannot  be  ob- 
tained. The  draft  of  the  card  for  this 
class  of  goods  should  not  exceed  100. 
The  speed  of  the  licker-in  should  be  at 
least  3-50  revolutions  per  minute.     The 

WEIGHT  OF  SLIVER 
at  front  should  be  about  65  grains  per 
yard.  The  sliver  is  put  through  two 
processes  of  drawing,  the  weight  of 
sliver  at  the  front  of  the  finishing  be- 
ing about  70  grains  per  yard.  The  set- 
tings of  the  drawing  frame  rolls  should 
be  as  follows:  for  %-inch  stock.front  to 
second  roll,  ly?  inches;  second  to  third, 
1%  inches;  third  to  back,  1%  to  2  in- 
ches. The  slubber  roving  should  be 
.50  hank. 

Two  processes  of  fly  frames  are  used, 
the  hank  roving  at  the  first  interme- 
diate being  1.50  and  at  the  second  4.00 
hank.  Always  look  out  for  bunches  at 
the  fly  frames  and  be  sure  that  your 
steel  rolls  are  set  to  the  best  ad- 
vantage.    Keep  your 

TOP  LEATHER  ROLLS 
in  perfect  condition  and  do  not  run  one 
that  is  cut,  bruised,  uneven  or  chan- 
neled. See  that  the  traverse  guideo 
are  all  working  so  as  not  to  make  chan- 
neled rolls.  The  cotton  roving  is  taken 
to  the  ring  spinning  room  and  here 
made  into  the  required  count  of  yarn. 
The  following  are  good  particulars  to 
be  used  on  20s  warp  and  filling  on  spin- 
ning frames:  warp,  gauge  of  spindle 
2%inches;  diameter  of  ring  li/^  inches, 
length  of  traverse  6%  inches;  for  fill- 
ing, gauge  of  spindle,  2%  inches,  di- 
ameter of  ring  lYz  inches;  length  of 
traverse  6i^  inches;  speed  of  spin- 
dles, 7,250  revolutions  per  minute. 
Use  any  of  the  best  spindles  on  thf, 
spinning  frame.  The  yarn  is  taken  to 
the  spooler  room  and  spooled  and  then 
run  on  a  warp  beam,thence  to  the  slash- 
er where  it  is  sized  and  then  is  readv 


for  weaving  unless  the  yarn  has  to  be 
dyed  before  being  woven  as  in  the  pres- 
ent article.  Then  the  method  differs 
somewhat. 


Dyeing   Particulars. 

Light  blue  is  dyed  with  the  ordinary 
indigo  blue  vat,  but  as  sulphur  blues 
are  faster  to  exposure  and  washing, 
they  are  mostly  dyed. 

LIGHT  BLUE. 

1  per  cent  innaedial  indone  3B,  V2  per 
cent  immedial  indone  B,  2  per  cent 
sulphide  sodium,  2  per  cent  soda,  20  per 
cent   Glauber's. 

DARK  BROWN. 

4  per  cent  immedial  cutch  O,  6  per 
cent  immedial  brown  A,  Vo  per  cent 
immedial  black  NG,  10  per  cent  sodium 
sulphide,  3  per  cent  soda,  30  per  cent 
Glauber's. 

SLATE. 
V/o  per  cent  katigen  black  SW,  2  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium,  2  per  cent  soda, 
30  per  cent  Glauber's. 
RED. 

5  per  cent  benzo  fast  red  4  BS,  3  per 
cent  sal  soda,  30  per  cent  Glauber's. 

LIGHT  ORANGE. 

2  per  cent  immedial  orange  C,  2  per 
cent  sodium  sulphide.  3  per  cent  soda, 
20   per  cent   Glauber's. 

DRAB. 
1  per  cent  immedial  black  NG,  1  per 
cent  immedial  brown  A,  2  per  cent  so- 
dium sulphide,   30  per  cent  Glauber's, 
3  per  cent  soda. 


SHEETING. 


Sheeting  is  a  light-weight,  single 
cloth,  composed  of  all  cotton  yarns, 
from  l-18s  to  l-40s  warp  and  filling, 
standard  goods  weighing  2i/^  to  6  yards 
per  pound.  It  is  sold  in  both  the  gray 
and  bleached  state,  the  bleaching  being 
done  after  the  cloth  is  woven. 

Sheeting  is  never  made  in  colors  or 
patterns,  but  always  in  solid  bleached 
or  unbleached  effects,  and  is  woven  on 
any  and  all  single  box  roller  looms, 
such  as  Draper,  Lowell,  Mason,  Colvin, 
Kilburn  &  Lincoln,  etc.,  cotton  harness 
being  used  in  most  cases. 

The  Draper  loom  has  the  peculiar  ad- 
vantage over  the  other  looms,  in  that 
it  has  an  automatic  warp  stop  mo- 
tion, which  stops  the  loom  when  a 
warp  end  breaks,  also  having  a  fining 
hopper  or  magazine  which  holds  18 
filling  bobbins,  the  filling  replenishing 
itself  in  the  shuttle  as  the  bol^bin  be- 


36;^Ht7/'"*^ 


(  ^ 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


65 


«omes  empty.  All  the  looms  have  an 
automatic  let-off  motion  to  regulate 
the  warp. 

Sheeting  warps  are  all  made  on 
THE  SLASHER, 
there  being  either  four  or  six  beams  to 
a  set,  and  these  are  filled  with  yarn  run 
from  spools  set  in  the  creel  rack  ot 
the  warp  mill.  Each  beam  has  a  pro- 
portionate numiber  of  the  total  warp 
ends,  viz.,  2,000  ends,  four  beams, equals 
500  ends  per  beam.  These  beams  are 
set  in  regular  order  at  the  further  end 
of  the  slasher  frame.  The  total  warp 
ends  are  then  run  througih  a  solution 
of  size,  and  around  the  hot  cylinder, 
and  then  upon  a  beam,  thereby  sizing 
and  beaming  the  warp  at  one  operation. 

Sheeting  requires  nothing  in  the  way 
of  finishing,  except  being  run  through 
a  plate  folder,  on  which  machine,  hav- 
ing a  brush  attached,  the  cloth  is  at 
once  brushed  and  folded  in  any  de- 
sired leng'th  of  fold. 

36  inches  is  the  standard  width  for 
sheeting. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

Always  a  ^ — •   plain  weave. 

4  square  inches  equals  4.15  grains. 

36  X  36  equals  1,296  x  4.15  equals 
5,378.4  divided  by  4  equals  1,344.6 
divided  by  437.5  equals  3.07  ounces  per 
yard. 

30  pieces  yarn  (warp)  x  21^  inches 
equals  70  inches  equals  .89  grains  minus 
6  per  cept  size  equals  .83  grains.  70  x 
'  TOOO  equals  490,000  divided  by  .83  equals 
590,361  divided  by  36  equals  16,399 
divided  by  840  equals  19.5  or  l-20s 
warp. 

60  pieces  yarn  (filling)  x  IV^  inches 
equals  90  inches  equals  .89  grains.  90 
X  7,000  equals  630,000  divided  by  .89 
equals  707,864  divided  by  36  equals  19,- 
662  divided  by  840  equals  23.41  or  l-24s 
filling. 

48  ends  per  inch  plus  44  picks  per 
inch  equals  44  ends  in  reed  and  42  picks 
in  loom. 

Reed  800 — 2  ends  per  dent,  .38  inches, 
including  16  ends  selvedge,  _6_2SI_££ai 
-siao-^M^ijugjyj  IQ-Per  cent  take-up  on 
warp,  5%  pei*dent  contractioiTin  widt'fiT 

1,728  plus  16  equals  1,744  ends  plus 
10  per  cent  take-up  equals  1,937  yards 
l-20s  warp  equals  1.83  ounces;  42  picks 
X  38  equals  1,586  yards.  l-24s  filling 
equals  1.25  ounces;  total  3.08  ounces. 

Standard  grades  equals  36  inches 
wide. 

52  ends,  52  picks,  l-20s  cotton  warp 
and  filling;  6  per  cent  size,  5^^  per  cent 
shrinkage  in  width  in  weaving;  38 
inches  tn  reed;  4.10  yards  per  pound. 

64  ends,  64  picks,  l-32s  warp,  l-40s 
filling;    6    per   cent  size,   5%    per   cent 


shrinkage  in  width     in     weaving;     38       7V 


inches  i  i  reed;    5.86  yards  per  pound. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  counts  of  the  yarns  used  in  mak- 
ing sheetings  vary  in  different  parts  of 
the  country  in  different  mills  and  even 
in  the  same  mill  two  grades  of  sheet- 
ings are  sometimes  made.  The  mills 
that  make  sheetings  may  belong  to 
any  one  of  the  three  divisions  as  given 
in  a  previous  article.  In  thiis  article 
we  will  consider  the  sheetings  in  two 
grades,  the  first  being  made  up  of  I83 
warp  and  the  finer  grade  made  up  or 
40s  warp  and  filling.     The  first  or 

COARSE  GRADES  OF  SHEETINGS 
are  made  in  the  first  division  of  mills 
and  the  staple  of  cotton  used  would 
be  a'bout  one  incn  in  diameter.  The 
mixing  would  in  most  cases  oe  per- 
formed by  hand  and  should  be  as  large 
as  possible.  It  would  be  put  throug'h 
two    processes    of   picking,    first    being 


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run  through  an  opener.  The  speeds  of 
the  various  parts  on  the  machines  in 
this  room  would  be  as  follows:  Speed 
of  beater  on  openers,  1,050  revolutions 
per  minute;  fan,  350;  speed  of  beater 
on  breaker  picker,  1,500  revolutions  per 
minute;  speed  of  fan,  1,400  revolutions 
per  minute;  speed  of  beater  on  finish- 
er picker,  1,450  revolutions  per  minute; 
speed  of  fan,  1,100  revolutions  per 
minute.    The 

WEIGHT  OF  THE  LAP 
at  the  different  machines  for  this  class 
of  goods  would  be  as  follows:  At  the 
front  of  the  breaker  picker,  40  pounds 
or  16  ounces  to  the  yard;  at  the  front 
of  the  finisher  picker,  39  i)ounds  or  14^^ 
ounces  to  the  yard.  Always  keep  the 
hopper  of  the  opener  full.  The  above 
speeds  and  number  of  processes  could 
also  be  used  for  fine  sheetings,  using 
40s  yam  with  the  following  exceptions: 
Instead  of  being  mixed  by  hand,  a  bale 
breaker  and  conveying  trunks  would 
be  used,  and  the  staple  of  cotton  would 
be  about  1%  inches.  The  weight  of  tae 
lap  at  the  breaker  would  be  about  the 
same,  but  at  the  finisher  picker  would 
be  less  or  about  35  pounds  for  the  total 


G6 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


■weiglit  of  lap  or  12 14  ounces  to  tlie 
yard.  Always  have  laps  of  both 
classes  uniform  in  weight,  and,  if  the 
laps  vary  one-half  pound  in  either 
direction  from  standard  weight,  they 
should  be  set  aside  and  put  back  into 
mixing.  Use  cut  roving  in  the  mixing, 
mixing  it  as  shown  in  a  previous  arti- 
cle. Double  four  into  one  in  the  picker 
room.    The 

SETTINGS  FOR  THE  CARD 
for  the  coarse  sheetings  should  be  wide, 
because  of  the  large  weight  of  cotton 
Lap  being  passed  through,  and  coarse 
wire  should  be  used,  33  on  the  cylinder 
and  34  on  tops  and  doffer.  The  drafts 
should  not  exceed  100  and  the  produc- 
tion should  he  about  900  pounds  per 
week  of  60  hours,  the  weight  of  the 
sliver  being  65  grains  to  the  yard.  The 
settings  for  the  finer  sheetings  at  the 
card  should  be  closer  and  a  fine  wire 
fillet  should  be  used.  The  draft  of  the 
card  should  not  be  less  than  100  and 
the  production  should  not  exceed  600 
pounds  per  week  of  60  hours.  Grind 
cards  and  tops  as  often  as  possible  and 
strip  three  times  a  day  on  both  grades 
of  sheetings.  Go  over  the  settings  after 
each  grinding  and  keep  cards  clean. 

The  coarser  grade  of  sheeting  is  put 
through 

TWO  PROCESSES  OF  DRAWING, 
the  weight  per  yard  o'f  the  sliver  at  the 
front  being  70  grains  per  yard,  the 
doublings  being  six  into  one  and  the 
speed  of  the  front  roll  400  revolutions 
per  minute.  The  finer  grade  of  sheet- 
ing is  put  through  three  processes 
of  drawing,  the  other  particulars  be- 
ing the  same,  excepting  the  settings, 
which  are  wider.  Good  settings  are 
as  follows:  For  one  inch  stock,  front 
to  second  roll,  1%  inches;  second  to 
third  roll,  1%  inches;  third  to  back 
roll,  1\^  inches;  for  1%  inch  stock, 
from  front  to  second,  1%  inches;  sec- 
ond to  third,  1%  inches;  third  to  back, 
1%  inches.  Keep  bottom  steel  rolls 
clean  and  top  leather  rolls  should  al- 
ways be  in  perfect  condition.  Varnish 
those  rolls  at  regular  intervals  and  al- 
ways keep  a  supply  of  extra  varnished 
rolls  o-n  hand,  so  that  imperfect  rolls 
may  be  taken  out  at  any  time  and  re- 
placed by  rolls  in  good  condition.  The 
hank  of  the  roving  at  the  front  of  the 
slubber  should  be  .55  to  .50  in  each 
case.  The  coarser  sheeting  yam  has  to 
be  put  through  two  processes  of  fly 
frames,  the  hank  at  the  first  interme- 
diate being  1.50  and  at  the  second  5 
hank. 

THE  ROVING 
for  making  the  finer  sheeting  passes 
through  three  processes  of  fly  frames,  tlie 


hank  roving  at  the  different  processes 
being  as  follows:  First  intermediate, 
1.50;  second  intermediate,  4,  and  fly 
frame,  10.  The  roving  for  both  grade* 
of  sheetings  are  spun  into  yam  on  the 
ring  spinning  frame.  The  particulars 
for  a  warp  frame  for  spinning  iSs  be- 
ing No.  4  Draper,  McMullen  or  VVhitin 
spindle;  gauge  of  frame,  2%  inches; 
diameter  of  ring  27  inches;  traverse. 
7  inches;  speed  of  spindle,  9,400  revolu- 
tions per  minute,  turning  off  about  2% 
pounds  per  spindle  per  week  of  60 
hours.  For  a  warp  frame  making  ^s 
yarn,  use  No.  2  Draper,  McMullen  or 
Whitin  spindle,  gauge  of  frame  2% 
inches;  diameter  of  ring,  1%  inches; 
traverse,  6i/^  inches;  speed  of  spindle, 
10,000  revolutions  per  minute,  produc- 
ing about  .95  pounds  per  spindle  per 
week  of  60  hours.  The  warp  yarn  is 
spooled  and  warped  and  run  through 
the  slasher.     A  good 

SIZE  MIXTURE 
for  18s  yarn,  one  set  of  beams,  1,500  to 
2,000  pounds,  is  as  follows:  160  gallons 
of  water,  100  pounds  starch,  20  to  40 
pounds  sizene  (according  to  make),  2 
to  8  pounds  tallow,  according  to  results. 
For  68  X  68  heavy  sheetings,  with  22s 
warp  yarn,  use  100  gallons  water,  70 
pounds  potato  sitarch,  4  pounds  tallow 
and  1  pint  of  turpentine. 


CHEVIOT  SHIRTING, 


Cheviot  shirting  is  a  narrow,  all-cot- 
ton fabric,  weighing  from  four  to  five 
ounces  per  yard  of  27  inches  width 
finished  and  is  composed  of  single 
or  double  ends  in  the  warp  and  single 
filling.  The  effect  of  the  double  ends 
is  entirely  different  from  that  pro- 
duced by  a  two-ply  thread,  and  is 
really  meant  to  create  a  rib  weave  ef- 
fect. 

This  fabric  is  made  of  cotton  yams, 
from  1-1 6s  to  l-22s  in  the  warp  and 
filling,  and  the  cloth  contains  from  40 
to  46  double  ends  per  inch  in  warp  and 
36  to  40  picks  per  inch  in  the  filling. 
Another  grade  is  made  by  weaving  36 
to  62  single  ends  per  inch  in  the  cloth, 
and  19  to  52  picks  per  inch  in  the  fill- 
ing finished. 

BY  THE  FIRST  METHOD 
there  is  produced  a  cloth  that  is  at 
once  stout  and  pliable,  and  having  ex- 
cellent wearing  qualities.  This  cloth 
is  used  principally  in  the  manufactui^ 
of  shirts  and  mock  shirts  for  the  use 
of  workmen  accustomed  to  rough, 
dirty  work,  such  as  miners  and  rail- 
road  men,     and  those  similarly     em- 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


67 


ployed.  It  is  nuade  in  atripe  pattern, 
usually  of  the  daorker  tones  of  fast 
colors,  such,  as  dark  blue,  dark  brown, 
etc.,  in  the  warp,  and  filling  to  match. 
In  these  warp  sbripe  patterns  the 
dark  colors  form  the  body  or  groimd 
of  the  pattern  and  the  white  warp 
forms  but  a  narrow  pin  stripe  in  the 
cloth.  Then  there  are  the  light  pat- 
terns, in  which  nearly  all  the  bright 
colors  are  used,  such  as  light  blue, 
orange,  red,  light  green,  etc.  In  this 
case  the  body  or  ground  of  the  cloth  is 
formed  by  the  white  warp,  and  the 
bright  color  forms  the  pin  stripe  in 
the  cloth.  Print  jiarns  are  occasional- 
ly introduced  in  the  light  colored  pat- 
terns to  create  mixed  color  effects. 
The  filling  in  the  light  patterns  is  al- 
ways white.  In  making  cheviot  shirt- 
ing there  is  rather 

A  HEAVY  SIZE 

placed  upon  the  warp  yam.  This  per- 
mits of  the  cloth  retaining  quite  a 
percentage  of  size  after  weaving,  and 
as  this  fabric  receives  nothing  but 
sprinkling  and  pressing  after  leaving 
the  loom,  the  excessive  amount  of  size 
gives  the  fabric  a  better  cover,  feel, 
and  apparent  bulk,  which  is  its  most 
distinguishng  feature  as  a  material  for 
workmen's  shirts. 

Cheviot  shirting  can  be  woven  upon 
any  plain  roller  loom,  either  single  or 
double  box,  such  as  the  Mason,  Lewis- 
ton,  Lowell,  Colvin,  Kilbum  and  Lin- 
coln, Mutual  OT  Fairmount  looms.  It  is 
generally  drawn  in  and  woven  on  4 
harnesses  so  as  not  to  crowd  the  hed- 
dies  in  weaving,  as  would  be  the  case 
if  but  2  harnesses  were  used.  Most  all 
cheviot  shirting  is  woven  with  a  plain 
weave,     although     sometimes     a    -- — 

warp  effect,  45  degree  twill  weave,  is 
used. 

CHEVIOT  SHIRTING. 

1  square  inch  equals  1.83  grains. 
27x36  equals  972x1.83  equals  1,778.76 
divided  by  1  square  inch  equals  1,778,- 
.76  divided  by  437.5  equals  4.065 
ounces  per  yard. 

44  pieces  white  warp  yam  x  Yz  inch 
long  equals  22  inches  equals  .35  grains. 
.35  grains  minus  10  per  cent  size  on 
warp  equals  .315  grains.  22x7,000 
equals  154,000  divided  by  .315  equals 
48,888  divided  by  36  equals  1,357  divid- 
ed by  840  equals  l-16s  cotton. 

110  pieces  blue  warp  yarn  x  i/^  inch 
long  equals  55  inches  equals  .9  grains. 
.9  grains  minus  10  per  cent  size  on 
warp  equals  .81  grains.  55x7,000 
equals  385,000  divided  by  .81  equals 
475,308  divided  by  36  equals  13,203  di- 


vided by  840  equals  15.71  or  l-16s  cot- 
ton. 

15  pieces  blue  filling  yam  x  2  anclhee 
long  equals  30  inches  equals  .45  grains. 
30x7,000  equals  210,000  divided  by  .45 
equals  466,666  divided  by  36  equals  12,- 
962.8  divided  by  840  equals  15.43  or  1- 
16s  cotton. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

Reed,  700,  4  ecds  per  dent;  28^4 
inches  in  reed  including  selvedge. 

532  plus  10  equals  542  splits  or  2,168 
ends;  l-16s  cotton  warp  yam. 

38  picks  per  inch;  1-1 6s  blue  cotton 
filling  yam. 

10  per  ceut  size  on  warp;  5^ 
per  cent  contraction  in  width  in  weav- 
ing. 

8  per  cent  take-up  in  length  of  warp 
in  weaving. 

Finish  equals  sprinkle  and  press 
equals  27  inches  finished  width. 

Plain  weave^  warp  drawn  in  on  4 
harnesses. 


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WARP 

PATTERN. 

8  blue. 

2  white. 

2  blue. 

2  white. 

14  ends   per   pattern. 

2,128  ends  in  warp  divided  by  14 
equals  152  repeats  in  pattern.  10  blue 
ends  per  pattern  x  152  equals  1,520 
plus  40  ends  blue  selvedge  equals  1,560 
ends,  l-16s  blue  warp  j'am.  4  white 
ends  per  pattern  x  152  equals  608  ends, 
l-16s  white  warp  yam. 

1,560  ends,  l-16s  blue  warp  yam  plus 
8  per  cent  take-up  equals  1,695  yards 
equaJs  2.017  ounces.  608  ends,  l-16s 
white  warp  yam  plus  8  per  cent  take- 
up  equals  660  yards  equals  .785  ounces. 
38  picks,  1-16S  blue  filling  yarn  x  28^^ 
inches  equals  1,083  yards  equals  1.265 
ounces;  total  4.067  ounces. 

4.067  ounces  per  yard,  27  Inches  wide 
finished. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  mills  which  make  the  counts  of 
yarn  required  for  cheviots  belong  to 
the  second  division,  given  in  a  previous 
article.     This    is   one    of  the  coarser 


G8 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


yarns  made  in  this  division  anid  is  man- 
ufactured firom  stock  of  about  1  inoh 
in  staple.  The  mixings  should  be  as 
large  as  possible  and  are  generally 
done  by  hand,  although  this  division 
of  milLs  is  generally  equipped  -with  a 
bale  breaker.  Of  coursie,  if  'the  bale 
breaker  is  not  too  hard  pushed  or  is 
stopped  lOn  account  of  all  ithe  other 
bins  of  better  grades  of  cotton  being 
full,  then  the  raw  s'tock  for  .this  class 
of  goods  will  be  run  thirough  the  bale 
breaker.  The  bale  breaker  is  capable 
of  handling  80,000  to  90,000  pounds 
per  week  and  requires  about  2  iron 
horse  power  to  drive  it. 

IF  FLOOR  SPACE  IS  AVAILABLE 

two  mixing  biins  should  be  used  in- 
stead  of  one  for  reasons  before  stated. 
The  cotton,  after  being  dried  out, 
should  be  run  through  two  processes 
of  picking  and  an  opener.  Keep  the 
hopper  of  the  opener  as  near  full  as 
possible  to  make  an  even  lap  at  the 
front.  Keep  the  pinroller  of  the  opener 
clear  of  all  cotton,  so  that  it  may  be 
able  to  do  its  duty.  On  some  makes 
this  roller  i_s  a  great  deal  of  trouble, 
which  is  ca7used  by  the  cotton  adher- 
ing to  it  and  winding  around  it  until 
it  does  not  strike  the  cotton  from  the 
lifting  apron  properly.  This  is  espe- 
ciaUy  true  when  sliver  waste  (fl-om 
all  machines  which  make  sliver)  is 
mixed  in  with  the  raw  stock  at  the 
bins  (as  is  customary).  The  speed  of 
the  oipener  beater  for  this  class  of  cot- 
ton should  be  1,100  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  speed  of  the  breaker 
beater  should  not  exceed  1,500  revo- 
lutions per  minute. 

THE  WEIGHT  OF  THE  LAP 

at  the  front  should  he  about  40  pounds 
or  16  ounces  to  the  yard  of  lap.  Care 
should  be  taken  that  the  drafts  on 
both  the  breaker  and  finisher  pickers 
are  regulated  to  the  best  advautage  so 
as  to  obtain  a  smooth,  firm,  even  lap 
at  the  front.  To  do  this  the  draft  is 
directed  so  that  the  cotton,  after  being 
acted  iipon  by  the  beater,  is  blown  on 
the  top  cage.  The  laps  made  at  the 
breaker  are  put  up  at  the  back  of  the 
flndsher  picker  and  doubled  4  into  1. 
The  speed  of  the  finisher  picker  beater 
should  be  1,450  revolutions  per  minute, 
which  gives  this  grade  anid  staple  of 
cotton  passing  by  it  abiout  42  beats  to 
the  inch.  The  weight  of  the  total  lap 
at  the  front  should  be  about  39  pounds, 
which  gives  what  is  known  as  a  14i^- 
ounoe  (to  the  yard)  lap. 
OILING. 
Take  cave  to  oil  all  rapidly  moving 


parts  of  pthe  pickers  at  regular  and  fre- 
quent intervals  and  keep  all  fly  from 
oolleoting  under  these  machines.  See 
that  the  pickers  are  properly  cleaning 
the  cotton,  anid  don't  make  the  card  do 
the  picker's  work.  The  laps  from  the 
finisher  picker  are  put  up  at  the  back 
of  the  card,  ithe  draft  of  which  (for 
this  class  of  goods)  should  not  exceed 
100.  The  wire  filleit  used  should  lalso 
be.  not  too  coarse.  Always  keep  an  eye 
on  the  settings  ^and  watch  the  fiat 
waste,  because  from  the  appearance  of 
this  vs^ste  we  are  able  to  tell  whether 
the  cotton  is  being  properly  carded  oi 
not. 

THE  SLIVER 

should  weigh  about  65  grams  per  yard 
and  the  production  should  be  around 
900  pounds  per  week  of  60  hours. 
Keep  card  wire  sharp.  The  sliver  is 
next  run  through  3  processes  of  draw- 
ing, the  dioubling  being  6  into  1.  The 
weight  of  the  finisher  drawing  should 
be  about  70  grains.  The  slubber  rov- 
ing should  be  about  .50  hank  and  there 
should  be  two  processes  of  fiy  framee. 
The  roving  at  the  first  intermediate 
should  be  1.50  'and  at  the  second  ei- 
ther 4  or  4.50,  according  to  whether 
warp  or  filling  yarn  is  to  be  made 
from  it,  the  fine  hank  being  made  into 
22s  filling  yam  and  the  coarser  hank 
roving  being  made  into  16s  warp  yam. 
The  yam  for  this  class  of  goods  is 
spun  on 

A  RING  SPINNING  FRAME. 

the  particulars  of  which  are  as  fol- 
lows: For  warp  frame  spinning  16s 
US'©  McMullen,  Whitin  or  Draper  No. 
4  spindle;  gauge  of  frame  2%  inches; 
diameter  of  ring,  2  inches;  length  odf 
traverse,  7  inches;  speed  of  spindle, 
9,400  revolutions  per  minute;  for  fill- 
ing frame  making  22s,  spindle  as  above  ^ 
except  No.  2  Draper;  gauge  of  spindle,  * 
2%  inches;  diameter  of  ring,  1% 
inches;  length  of  traverse,  6%  inches; 
speed  of  spindle,  7,400  revolutions  pet 
minuite. 


Dyeing  Particulars. 

Following  are  good  formulas  for  th€ 
colors  used  in  dyeing  cheviot  shirt- 
lings : 

LIGHT  GREEN. 

2  per  cent  im medial  yellow  D;  4  per 
cent  immedial  indone  3B;  5  per  cent 
cent  sodium  sulphide;  3  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's;  3  per  cent  soda. 

ORANGE. 

4  per  cent  immedial  orange  C;  4  per 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


69 


cent  sodium  sulphide;  3  per  cent  soda;       of  the  cloth  is  usually  woven  with  a 
30  per  cent  Glauber's.  plain  weave,  L-^  . 

DARK  BLUE. 


3  per  oeat  immedial  indone  3  B;  3 
per  cent  immedial  indone  R;  2  per  cent 
immedial  indone  B;  11  per  cent  sodium 
sulphide;  3  per  cent  soda;  30  per  cent 
Glauber's. 

DARK  BROWN. 

2  per  cent  thion  black  B ;  8  per  cent 
thdon  brown  G;  10  per  cent  sodium  sul- 
phide; 3  per  cent  soda;  30  per  cent 
Glauber's. 

SLATE. 

2  per  cent  thion  black  B;  2  per  cent 
sodium  sulphide;  2  per  cent  soda;  20 
per  cent  Glauber's. 

RED. 
5    per  cent    benzo    scarlet    4    BS; 
3  per  cent  sal  soda;  30  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's. 

YELLOW. 
1  per  cent  chloramine  yellow  M;   3 
per  cent  sal  soda;    20  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's. 

SALMON. 
V2  per  cent  benzo  fast  orange  S;    2 
per  cent  sal  soda;    20  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's. 

OLIVE. 
5  per  cent  pj-rogene  olive  N;   5  per 
cent  sodium  sulphide;  3  per  cent  soda; 
30  per  cent  Glauber's. 

BLACK. 

15  per  cent  katigen  black  S  W;  15 
per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  3  per  cent 
soda;  30  per  cent  Glauber's. 

After  dyeing,  all  of  the  colors  men- 
tioned must  be  w^ell  rinsed  with  three 
waters.  A  light  soaping  at  the  boil 
must  then  be  given,  followed  by  an- 
other rinsing.  The  colors  will  be  fast 
to  washing  and  will  not  bleed  into 
each  other. 


NOVELTY  DRESS  GOODS, 


Novelty  dress  goods  is  a  light-weight 
single  cloth  fabric,  made  from  single 
and  two-ply  cotton  yams  in  both  warp 
and  filling,  and  is  woven  in  large  and 
small  plaids,  also  solid  colors.  The 
distinct  feature  of  this  fabric  is  the 
prominence  given  the  heavy  yarns, 
which  are  always  woven  -with  a  fancy 
weave  in  such  a  manner  as  to  form 
an  all-over  effect  in  imitation  of  a 
jacquard  pattern.    The  ground  or  body 


In  the  better  grades  of  novelty  dress 
goods,  merino  and  silkoline  yams  are 
often  used.  In  malving  this  class  of 
goods  it  is  sometimes  necessary  to  use 
two  beams  in  weaving,  as  the  differ- 
ence of  take-up  in  the  ground  and  fancy 
yarns  will  not  permit  of  one  beam  be- 
ing used. 

Novelty  dress  goods  are  made  to 
weigh  from  3  to  5  ounces  per  yard; 
generally  l-20s  to  l-30s  cotton  ground 
warp  and  filling  yarns,  and  2-20s  to 
2-40s,  and  1-Ss  to  l-12s  yarns  sre  used 
to  produce  overplaided  or  novelty 
weave   effects. 

This  fabric  is  made  in  all  dress 
goods  colors  and  goods  patterns  pro- 
duced hy    using  dark     green,   brown. 


DnDBBGDDCaCHDB 
DDGaDBBDanBDBD 
aGaDDDQBBBnBDB 
Desiga 


nanDDDDCDDDDDB 

□nanaarDDDDDBn 

UaaDDDDDDDDBna 

nnnDnanDDDBDDn 

DDDDCDnnBGaDDa 
nDDDODDBnBDnDa 

□DDDaDBDnnnDoa 
naDnDBDDDnaDDa 

DGnDBDDDnnDDDD 

nnDBDDnnDaDDna 
r.BDDa  DoannDDD 
■DBDonDGDnDnnn 

Drawinc-io  Draft 

□□BBOaBBDaBBDa 
■flDDBBaDBBaaBB 


BDaBDBGBBBBD 

dbbdbgbdbbbd 
bggbgbgbbbbd 
gbbdbgbgbbgb 

bgdbgbgbbbgb 
gbbgbgbgbdbb 
bu3bgb::bbdbb 
gbbdb::bddbbb 
BG::B::BL:aDBBa 

GBBGBZBGGBBB 
BBaGZGrCBnBG 
GDBBGDDCGBCB 
DGGGBBDaBGBn 
Li_ui  i_L>  hi,fcLB 
Cbam  Dratt 


dark  or  cherry  red,  navy  blue,  etc.,  for 
ground  color  and  crossing  these  with 
black. 

Cotton  novelty  goods  can  be  woven 
in  any  power  loom  having  a  box  mo- 
tion and  dO'bby  or  head  motion  at- 
tached. Mutual  or  Fairmount  4x1  box 
looms,  having  either  Ingraham,  Old- 
ham or  Stafford  top,  are  all  right  for 
this  line. 

To  finish  these  goods,  they  are  meas- 
ured, then  brushed  and  run  through 
a  steam  box  to  liven  the  colors,  after 
which  they  are  rolled  and  pressed, 
ready  to  pack  and  ship. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

27  inches  finished. 

4  square  inches  equals  5.7  gra;ins.  27 
x3G  eq-ials  972x5.7  equals  5,504.4  divid- 
ed by  4  equals  1,385  divided  by  437.5 
equals  3.165  ounces  per  yard. 

20  pieces  black  warp  yam  x  2  inches 
equals  40  inches  equals  1  grain.     40x 


70 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


7,000  equals  280,000  divided  by  1  equals 
280,000  divided  by  36  equals  7,777  di- 
vided by  840  equals  2-20  black  warp. 

38  pieces  brown  warp  yarn  x  2  inches 
equals  76  inches  equals  .92  grains.  Ttl 
x7,000  equals  532,000  divided  by  .92 
equals  578,260  divided  by  36  equals  16,- 
062  divided  by  840  equals  1-20  brown 
warp. 

12  pieces  white  warp  yarn  x  2  inches 
equals  24  inches  equals  .27  grains.  27x 
7.000  equals  ICS.OOi;  divided  by  .27 
equals  622,222  divided  by  36  equals  17,- 
284  divided  by  840  equals  1-20  white 
warp. 

24  pieces  black  filling  yarn  x  3  inches 
equals  72  inches  equals  1.45  grains. 
72x7,000  equals  504,000  divided  by  l.-io 
equals  347,586.2  divided  by  36  equals 
9,655.17  divided  by  840  equals  1-12 
black  filling. 

17  pieces  brown  filling  yarn  x  3 
inches  equals  51  inches  equals  .5  grains. 

51x7,000  equals  357,000  divided  by  .5 
equals  7,140,000  divided  by  36  equals 
198,333  divided  by  840  equals  1-21 
brown. 

12  pieces  white  filling  yarn  x  3 
inches  equals  36  inches  equals. 35  grains. 
36x7,000  equals  252,000  divided  by  .35 
equals  7,200,000  divided  by  36  equals 
200,000  divided  by  840  equals  1-24  whfte 
filling. 

50  ends  per  inch  finished  and  48 
picks  per  inch  finished  equals  44  ends 
per  inch  in  reed  and  43  picks  per  inch 
in  loom. 

10  per  cent  take-up  on  white  and 
brown  warp,  2  per  cent  on  black  warp. 

WARP    PATTERN. 


equals  white  or  185.14  yards  1-24  equals 
.1469  ounces.     Total  3.1294. 
3.1294  ounces  finished,  27  incfhes  wide. 


4  BrowTi"^ 
2  White 
4  Brown 
4  Black  J 


I- Fining    same. 


32  ends  white  selvedge. 

Reed  800 — 2  ends  per  dent. 

301^  inches  in  reed  including  sel- 
vedge. 

95  repeats  of  pattern  plus  4  ends. 

1,334  ends  plus  32  ends  selvedge.  8 
brown  per  pat.  x  95  patterns  equals  760 
plus  4  equals  764  plus  10  per  cent  take- 
up  equals  848.88  yards  1-20  equals 
.8084  ounces.  4  black  per  pat.  x  95  pat- 
terns equals  380  plus  10  per  cent  take- 
up  equals  400.00  yards  2-20  equals  .7619 
ounces.  2  white  per  pat.  x  95  patterns 
equals  190  plus  10  per  cent  take-up 
equals  211.11  yards  1-20  equals  .2010 
ounces.  32  white  selvedge  plus  15  per 
cent  take-up  equals  37.64  yards  1-20 
equals  .0358  ounces.  Total  warp 
weight,  1.8071  ounces. 

8-14  of  filling  equals  brown  or  740.56 
yards  1-24  equals  .5877  ounces.  4-14 
of  filling  equals  black  or  370.28  yards 
1-12  equals  .5877  ounces.    2-14  of  filling 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  yarns  for  novelty  dress  goods 
would  probably  be  made  in  mills  of 
the  second  division.  For  this  class  of 
goods  three  or  more  different  counts 
of  yarns  are  generally  used,  the  counts 
varying  from  4s  to  40s,  the  medium 
yarn  being  from  20s  to  30s.  For  the 
cloth  under  description  we  will  con- 
sider that  the  yarns  used  are  as  fol- 
lows: 8s,  to  produce  one  effect  and 
2-20s  another,  both  of  these  yarns  be- 
ing used  on  the  face  of  the  cloth,  and 
l-oOs  for  the  ground  warp  and  filling 
yarns.  In  some  mills  it  is  the  custom 
to  make- all  these  counts  of  yarns  from 
one  staple  and  grade  of  cotton  to  save 
time  and  to  reduce  the  number  of  mix- 
ings in  order  that  the  cotton  may  pass 
up  to  a  certain  point  on  the  same  ma- 
chines, the  only  difference  being  that 
the  finer  yarns  are  run  through  one 
more  process  of  fly  frames.  While 
this  undoubtedly  saves  time  and  ma- 
chines and  may  be  done  when  the 
counts  of  yam  used  in  the  cloth  do 
not  vary  a  great  deal,  still  it  is  gener- 
ally the  case  to  have  two  or  even 
three  different  mixtures,  one  for  the 
very  coarse,  one  for  the  medium  and 
one  for  the  fine  yarns.  In  this  lesson 
we  will  consider  that  there  are 

TWO  MIXINGS, 
or  in  othe"  words,  two  grades  and 
staples  of  raw  stock  used,  one  for  the 
8s  and  another  mixing  for  the  20s 
to  30s  yam.  For  8s  yarn  the  staple 
of  the  raw  stock  should  be  from  %  to 
1  inch  in  length  and  for  the  finer 
counts,  cotton  of  from  1%  tol3-16incli 
staple  may  be  used.  The  %-inch  stock 
would  proibably  be  mixed  by  hand,  i.  e., 
taken  from  the  bale  and  pulled  into 
small  bunches  and  spread  in  the  mix- 
ing bin  by  the  help.  In  this  mixture 
all  good  waste  of  the  same  length  '■ 
staple  is  used,  the  roving  v/aste  being 
treated,  as  previously  mentioned; 
sometimes,  but  not  often,  comber 
waste  is  used,  but  a  large  percentage 
should  not  be  used. 

FOR  THE  FINER  COUNTS 
the  raw  stock  would  be  run  through 
a  bale  breaker  or,  if  no  bale  breaker 
was  in  the  mill  equipment,  then  the 
cotton  would  be  mixed  by  hand  the 
same  as  cotton  for  the  coarser  counts 
except  that  no  comber  waste  would  be 
used.  Two  processes  of  picking  and  an 
opener  would  be  used  with  both  proc- 
esses.    All     the  points  in     connection 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


71 


with  the  opener  given  in  former  ar- 
ticles should  be  carefully  observed; 
the  speed  of  the  fan  of  the  breaker 
should  be  about  1,500  revolutions  per 
minute  for  both  stocks  and  the  weight 
of  the  laps  40  pounds  or  16  ounces  to 
the  yard.  The  speed  of  the  fan  at  the 
finisher  picker  should  be  a  little  less 
than  at  the  breaker  pickerand  the  speed 
of  the  fan  about  1,100  revolutions  per 
minute.  This  gives  the  cotton  passing 
under  the  action  of  the  beater  about 
42  beats  or  blows  per  inch.  The  weight 
of  the  lap  of  the  %-inch  stock  should 
be  39  pounds  or  14  ounces  to  the  yard, 
and  for  the  finer  counts  of  yarn,  35 
pounds  or  12y2  ounces  to  the  yard.  The 

DRAFT  OF  THE  CARD 
for  the  coarser  count  should  not  exceed 
100  and  for  the  finer  count  should 
not  be  less  than  100.  The  same  size 
of  wire  fillet  may  be  used  for  both 
grades  or,  generally  speaking,  No.  33 
wire  fillet  for  cylinder  and  No.  34  wire 
fillet  for  doffer  and  top  flats.  'j.he 
main  points  of  difference  v,-ould  be  in 
the  setting  of  the  card  for  the  dif- 
ferent stocks,  the  longer  staple  of  cot- 
ton requiring  the  closer  settings,  the 
production  for  the  %-inch  stock  being 
900  pounds  and  for  the  1  %-inch  stock 
from  750  to  800  pounds  per  week  of  60 
hours.  The  doffer  of  the  card  should 
be  as  large  as  possible  in  both  cases, 
either  26   or   27  inch  diameter.     Keep 

THE  CARD  WIRE 
sharp  and  be  sure  that  the  wire  on  the 
flats  is  of  uniform  length,  because,  if 
this  is  not  the  case,  had  work  is  bound 
to  result  on  account  of  the  fact  that 
even  settings  of  the  flats  with  the  cyl- 
inder cannot  be  obtained.  The  weight 
per  yard  of  the  sliver  would  be  the 
same  in  both  cottons  or  65  grains  per 
yard.  The  %-inch  stock  would  be  put 
through  two  processes  of  drawing 
and  the  longer  staple  three  processes, 
doubled  6  into  1  in  both  cases.  The 
weight  of  the  sliver  at  the  finisher 
drawing  would  be  the  saime.  or  (2 
grains  per  yard.  The  same  hank  rov- 
ing would  be  made  at  the  slubber,  or 
.55  hank,  although  the 

SETTINGS  OF  THE  ROLLS 
of  both  of  the  last  named  processes 
would  be  different.  Only  one  process 
of  drawing  would  be  used  on  the  '/s- 
inch  stock  and  at  the  fly  frame  it 
would  be  made  into  1  hank  roving  and 
from  here  passed  to  the  spinning  room. 
For  the  1  %-inch  stock  two  processes 
would  be  used.  At  the  first  interme- 
diate the  slubber  roving  would  be 
made  into  2  hank  roving  and  at  the 
second  the  roving  for  20s  count  yarn 
would  be  made  into  4  hank  and  for  the 


30s  count  would  be  made  into  6  hank. 
The  roving  would  then  be  taken  to 

THE  SPINNING  ROOM, 
■ftf^here  the  required  count  would  be 
spun.  The  particulars  for  a  warp 
frame  making  20s  yarn  have  been  giv- 
en in  a  previous  lesson;  for  a  warp 
frame  making  8s,  the  following  par- 
ticulars may  be  used;  any  high-grade 
spindle,  length  of  traverse,  7  inch, 
gauge  of  spindle,  3%  inches,  diameter 
of  ring,  2%  inches,  speed  of  spindle, 
8,100  revolutions  per  minute.  For  a 
warp  frame  making  30s  use  gauge  of 
spindle,  2%  inches,  diameter  of  ring, 
1%  inches,  length  of  traverse,  6  inches, 
speed  of  spindle,  9,800  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  yarn  is  then  spooled  and 
warped  and  dyed.  For  some  of  the  ef- 
fects produced  in  this  class  of  goods 
two  yarns  of  different  colors  are  twist- 
ed together;  for  this  a  machine  known 
as  a  twister  is  used,  one  thread  of  each 
color  being  twisted  together. 


Dyeing   Particulars. 
DARK   GREEN. 
4  per  cent  tetrazo  brilliant  green  J; 
30  per  cent  Glauber's;    3  per  cent  sai 
soda. 

RED. 

4  per  cent  tetrazo  fast  red  4  B;  30 
per  cent  Glauber's;  3  per  cent  sal  soaa. 

LIGHT  SKY  BLUE. 

1  per  cent  tetrazo  blue,  6  B  new;  20 
per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal  soda* 

WINE. 
3    per   cent   tetrazo   corinth;    30    per 
cent  Glauber's;   3  per  cent  sal  soda. 

DARK  BLUE. 
3  per  cent  tetrazo  blue  B  X;   30  per 
cent  Glauber's;   2  per  cent  sal  soda. 

DARK  BROWN. 
3   per  cent  tetrazo  dark   brown;    1^ 
per  cent  tetrazo  black  brown;    30  per 
cent  Glauber's;   2  per  cent  sal  soda. 

LILAC. 

2  per  cent  tetrazo  chlorine  lilac  ii; 
2  per  cent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's. 

LIGHT   SLATE. 

%  per  cent  tetrazo  black  N;  ^  per 
cent  tetrazo  brilliant  blue  B  B;  2  per 
cent  sal  soda;  25  per  cent  Glauber's. 

DARK  SLATE. 
1%  per  cent  tetrazo  black  N;   %  per 
cent  tetrazo  blue  3  B;   2  per  cent  sal 
soda;   30  per  cent  Glauber's. 

OLIVE. 
14  per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow  B; 


72 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


3  per  cent  diamine  bronze  G;  2  per  cent 
sal  soda;  30  per  cent  Glauber's. 

BLACK. 
5  per  cent    tetrazo  black    N;   3  per 
cent  Sal  soda;  30  per  cent  Glauber's. 

NAVY  BLUE. 

3  per  cent  tetrazo  blue  B  X;  %  per 
cent  tetrazo  blue  4  R;  3  per  cent  sal 
soda;   30  per  cent  Glauber's. 

Tbe  above  colors  are  for  first  batlis, 
for  a  standing  bath.  One-third  of  the 
color  can  be  taken  away  from  these 
amounts.  After  dyeing,  yam  must  be 
well  rinsed  in  water. 


DRILL. 


Cotton  drill  is  a  medium  weight, 
single  cloth,  weighing  from  4  to  6 
ounces  and  composed  of  coarse  all-cot- 
ton yarns,  warp  and  filling.  It  is  al- 
ways made  with  a  small  uneven  sided 
twill  weave,  generally  — j-(warp  ef- 
fect) twill  weave. 

Drill  is  sometimes  made  from  yams 
in  the  gray  and  afterwards  dyed  in 
the  piece,  or  in  solid  warp  color  ef- 
fects, such  as  indigo  blue  and  dark 
brown,  white  filling  being  used  in  each 
instance. 

It  can  be  woven  in  any  single  box 
roller  loom,  such  as  Draper,  Lowell, 
Lewiston,  Colvin,  Mason,  or  Kilburn 
&  Lincoln,  and  is  usually  drawn  in  and 
woven  on  cotton  harness,  as  these  are 
light  in  weight  and  wear  better  than 
wire  heddles  for  this  style  of  cotton 
goods. 

THE   WARP 

is  beamed  on  the  slaiSher,  the  warp 
proper  being  divided  into  a  certain 
number  of  sections,  in  accordance  with 
the  number  of  ends  to  'be  used  in  the 
drill  warp.  These  sections  are  beamed 
on  the  warp  mill,  the  yarn  being  run 
on  to  the  beam  from  the  spools  in  the 
creel  rack.  The  several  section  beams, 
when  completed  in  the  warp  mill,  are 
assembled  in  the  beam  rack  at  the  end 
of  the  slasher  and  the  yarn  from  each 
beam  is  run  through  the  size  tub  and 
over  the  drying  cylinder  of  the  slash- 
er at  the  same  time,  on  to  the  slash- 
er beam,  thus  making  a  complete 
warp,  the  sizing  and  beaming  being 
done  at  one  operation. 

Slasher  warps  do  not  have  a  lease 
in  them,  the  yarn  being  kept  nearly 
straight  in  place  by  the  use  of  a  slash- 
er comb,  which   is,  in  fact,  a  shallow 


reed  having  one  open  side.  The  comb 
is  pressed  through  the  threads,  while 
they  are  spread  taut  in  the  slasher 
frame  and  a  wooden  cap  is  then  fast- 
ened upon  the  open  side  of  the  slasher 
comb,  thereby  holding  the  yarn  in 
place  for  the  operation  of  drawing  in. 

The  drawing  in  is  performed  by 
girls,  without  the  aid  of  a  bander  in, 
as  is  the  case  when  pattern  warps  are 
drawn  in  from  a  lease. 

The  drawer  in  for  drill,  ises  a  three- 
bladed  hook  (a  blade  for  each  harness) 
and  the  harnesses  or  heddles  are  hung 
uj)on  a  rack  immediately  in  front  of 
the  beamed  warp.  The  drawer  in,  if 
experienced,  will  pick  out  three  hed- 
dles and  three  ends  at  one  time,  and 
continue  to  do  so  until  the  total  warp 
ends  are  threaded  through  the  har- 
nesses or  heddles. 

To  finish  colored  drill,  the  goods  are 
taken  from  the  loom  and  run  through 
the  brusher,  to  remove  all  lint  and 
waste  threads,  after  which  they  are 
put  through  the  size  tubs  and  then  dry 
pressed. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

4  square  inches  equals  9.95  grains. 
30x36  equals  1,080x9.95  equals  10,746 
divided  by  4  equals  2,686.5  divided  by 
437.5  equals  6.14  ounces  per  yard  fin- 
ished. 

30  pieces  blue  warp  x  2i^  equals  75 
inches  equals  1.9  grains.  75x7,000 
equals  525,000  divided  by  1.9  equals 
276,315.8  divided  by  36  equals  7,675.43 
divided  by  840  equals  1-lOs  cotton. 

30  pieces  white  filling  x  iy2  equals 
45  inches  equals  .55  grains.  45x7,000 
equals  315,000  divided  by  .55  equals 
572,727  divided  by  36  equals  15,909 
divided  by  840  equals  l-18s  cotton. 

66  ends  per  inch  finished  and  48 
picks  per  inch  finished  equal  63  ends 
per  inch  loom  and  44  picks  per  inch 
loom.  10  per  cent  take  up  in  weaving 
minus  6%  per  cent  contraction  in  reed. 
16  ends  selvedge.     30  inches  finished 

equals  32  inches  in  —  twill  weave. 
750  reed  minusi  3  ends  per  dent. 
Finish  equals  size  and  dry  press. 

66x30  equals  1,980  plus  16  equals  1,- 
996  plus  10  per  cent  equals  2,218 
yards  1-lOs  cotton  warp  equals  4.224 
ounces.  48  picks  x  30  equals  1,440 
yards,  l-18s  cotton  filling  equals  1.523 
ounces. 

4.224  ounces   warp. 
1.523  ounces  filling. 

5.747  ounces    loom    weight. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The     machinery  used     to  make     the 
counts     of     yarns     for     the     kind     of 


Si^iUHi""'^"^ 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY 


73 


cloth  under  description  would  be 
found  in  mills  of  the  first  and  perhaps 
of  the  second  division,  as  given  in  a 
previous  lesson.  As  the  yarns  are 
made  from  a  short  staple,  low-grade 
cotton,  the  mixing  will  probably  be 
done  by  hand;  i.  e.,  the  bales  of  cotton 
would  be  opened  at  the  mixing  bia  and 
the  cotton  separated  into  small  parts 
and  piled  up  in  the  bin  until  it  was 
full.  The  good  waste  from  cards  and 
drawing  frames  would  also  be  mixed 
in  with  the  raw  stock,  and  in  the 
cheaper  grades  of  drill  comber  waste 
is  sometimes  used  in  small  quantities. 
The  same  length  of  staple  may  be 
used  for  both  warp  and  filling  yarns 
and  they  may  be  run  through  the 
same  machineis  up  to  the  fly  frames, 
and  here 

THE  ONLY  DIFFERENCE 
is  that  the  roving  to  make  the  filling 
yarn  is  run  through  one  more  process 
of  fly  frames  than  the  warp  yarn.  The 
mixing  isi  taken  from  the  bins  and 
thrown  into  the  hopper  of  the  opener 
and  this  hopper  is  always  kept  full. 
Keep  the  pin  beater  free  from  cotton, 
so  that  an  even  sheet  of  cotton  may  be 


■DaBDBBDBHDBan 
DBBDBBDBBDBBaB 
■BDBBDBBDBBDBB 
BnBBDBBDBBnBBa 
DBBOaBDBBGBBDB 
BBDBBaBBDBBQBB 
BDBBaBBDBBDBBa 
□BBDBBDBBDBBDB 
BBDBBDBBDBBDBB 
■OBBaBBDBBDBBD 
DBBGBBDBBDBBQB 
BBDBBDBNDBBDBB 
BQBBaBBDBBaBBD 
Weave 

DDBnnBnDBDOBDDB 
nBDnBDDBQDBDDBD 

BacBnDBDDBaaBDa 

Drawing-iti  Draft 

□noBBBPnoBBBnoa 

BBBaODBBBDaDBBB 
Eeed  Plan 


6.140  ounces  finished. 
5.747  ounces    loom. 

.393  ounces  =  sizing  in  finishing. 
About  6>i  per  cent  of  size. 

passed  up  to  the  beater,  the  speed  of 
which  should  be  about  1,050  revolu- 
tions per  minute.  In  modern  mills 
this  opener  is  built  in  connection  with 
the  breaker  picker,  and  the  cotton, 
after  passing  the  beater,  is  thrown  on 
to  a  moving  lattice  and  is  brought  to 
the  feed  rolls  of  the  breaker  picker, 
which  in  turn  condenses  it  and  passes 
the  beater  which  should  have  a  speed 
of  1,500  revolutions  per  minute.  See 
that  the  draught  of  this  picker  and 
also  the  finisher  picker  is  so  directed 
that  the  cotton,  after  passing  the 
beater,  will  be  blown  upon  the  top  of 
the  pair  of  cages,  as  this  will 


HELP  TO  MAKE  AN  EVEN  LAP 

at  the  front  end.  The  weight  of  the 
lap  at  the  front  end  of  the  breaker 
should  be  about  40  pounds  or  about  16 
ounces  to  the  yard.  The  laps  are 
then  put  up  at  the  finisher  ipicker  and 
doubled  four  into  one.  The  speed  of 
tiiis  beater  should  be  1,450  revolutions 
per  minute  and  the  weight  of  the 
finished  lap  about  39  pounds  or  14 
ounces  to  the  yard.  The  cotton  re- 
ceives about  42  beats  to  the  inch  at 
this  machine.  The  draft  of  this  ma- 
chine is  very  small  and  very  rarely  ex- 
ceeds 3.  All  heavy  and  quickly  mov- 
ing parts  should  be  oiled  frequently 
and  keep  the  room  clean.  The  laps 
are  then  put  up  at  the  card.  The 
draft  of  this-  machine  should  not  ex- 
ceed 100  for  this  class  of  goods. 

THE   SETTINGS 

S'hould  be  wide,  because  it  is  the  ob- 
ject to  get  off  as  many  pounds  as  pos- 
sible for  this  class  of  goods.  Keep  the 
wire  sharp  by  frequent  grindings. 
The  speed  of  the  licker-in  should  be 
about  300  revolutions  per  minute.  The 
speed  of  the  top  flats  should  be  one 
comiplete  revolution  In  40  minutes  and 
the  speed  of  the  doffer  from  13i^  to 
14  revolutions  per  minute.  The  di- 
ameter of  the  doffer  should  be  as 
large  as  poosible,  say  26  or  27  inches. 
The  production  should  be  about  800 
pounds  for  a  week  of  60  hours. 

THE  SLIVER 

should  weigh  about  65  grains  to  the 
yard.  The  sliver  is  run  through  three 
processes  of  drawings,  the  weight  at 
the  finisher  drawing  being  70  grains. 
The  doublings  at  the  different  pro- 
cesses of  drawing  should  be  6  into  1 
and  the  drafts  should  not  exceed  6. 
The  speed  of  the  front  roller  should 
be  400  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  slubber  is  the  next  process,  and 
here  the  sliver  should  be  made  into  a 
,50  bank  roving.  The  warp  yarn  is 
then  put  through  one  more  process  of 
fly  frame  and  made  into  1.25  to  1.50 
hank  roving  and  from  here  passed  to 
the  spinning  room.  The  filling  yam  is 
put  through  one  more  process  and  is 
made  into  2.50  hank  roving  and  then 
passed  on  to  the  spinning  room. 

THE  SPINNING  FRAME 

then  draws  the  roving  into  the  re- 
quired hank  by.  having  the  correct 
draft  gear  put  on.  Good  sipecifications 
for  both  the  warp  and  filling  frames 
arc  as  follows:  for  warp  frame,  for 
spinning  10s  yarn>  gauge  of  spindle, 
tiaree    inches:    diameter    of   ring,    two 


74 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


inches;  length  of  traverse,  7  inches; 
speed  of  spindle  8,600  revolutions  per 
minute;  twist  per  inch,  15.02;  for  fill- 
ing frame  spinning  18s  yarn,  gauge  of 
spindle,  2%  inches;  diameter  of  ring, 
lYz  inches;  speed  of  spindle,  7,200  rev- 
olutions per  minute;  length  of  trav- 
erse, QVz  inches;  twist  per  inch,  13.79. 
The  "warp  yarn  is  then  spooled,  warped 
and  run  through  a  slasher. 


Dyeing   Particulars. 

Drills  are  yarn  dyed,  blue  and 
brown,  indigo  or  sulphur  blues,  cutch 
or  sulphur  browns. 

PYROGBNE   INDIGO    BLUE. 

10  per  cent  color;  20  per  cent  sul- 
phide sodium;  8  per  cent  soda  ash; 
35  per  cent  salt;  2  per  cent  mineral  oil, 
1  hour  at  200  degrees  F.  Aftertreated 
with 

11^  per  cent  biohrome;  1^  per  cent 
sulphate  copper;  3  per  cent  acetic 
acid,  9  degrees  Tw.  Well  rinsed  and 
soaped.    A  soap  made  of 

2  per  cent  paraffin  wax;  2  per  cent 
glue;  2  per  cent  dextrine  is  consid- 
ered very  suitable.  Turn  for  15  min- 
utes at  120  degrees  F.  Squeeze  and 
dry. 

BROWN. 

5  per  cent  immedial  cutch  O;  1  per 
cent  immedial  dark  brown  A;  3  per 
cent  immedial  brown  B;  8  per  cent  sul- 
phide sodium;  3  per  cent  soda  ash; 
30  per  cent  Glauber's  salt.  Turn  at  200 
degrees  F.  for  one  hour,  rinse  and 
aftertreat: 

1%  per  cent  bichrome;  l^/^  per  cent 
sulphate  copper;  3  per  cent  acetic 
acid,  9  degrees  Tw.;  30  minutes  at  200 
degrees  F.  Rinse,  and  soap  with  a 
weak  solution  at  boil. 

A  variety  of  shades  are  piece  dyed 
on  drills  and  used  for  various  pur- 
poses, where  a  very  S'trong  cloth  is  re- 
quired. 

SLATE. 

3  per  cent  thion  black  B;  3  per  cent 
sulphide  sodium;  3  per  cent  soda  ash; 
20  per  cent  common  salt.  Rinse  well 
and  soap. 

BLACK. 

15  per  cent  thion  black  G;  15  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;  3  per  cent  soda 
aah;  30  per  cent  common  salt.  Rinse 
w«ll  and  soap. 

BUFF. 

1  per  cent  thion  brown  G;  ^4  per 
cent  thion  yellow  R;  2  per  cent  sul- 
phide sodium;    2  per  cent  soda  ash; 


30  per  cent  common  salt.     Rinse  well 
and  soap. 

OLIVE. 

4  per  cent  immedial  olive  B;  %  per 
cent  immedial  black  N  G;  %  per  cent 
immedial  yellow  D;  5  per  cent  sodium 
sulphide;  3  per  cent  soda  ash;  30  per 
cent  Glauber's  salt.  Rinse  well  and 
soap. 

SKY  BLUE. 

3  per  cent  immedial  sky  blue  pow- 
der; 3  per  cent  sodium  sulphate;  3  per 
cent  soda  ash;  30  per  cent  Glauber's 
salt.     Rinse  well  and  soap. 

GREEN. 

10  per  cent  katigen  green  2  B;  10 
per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  3  per  cent 
soda  ash;  30  per  cent  Glauber's  salt; 
rinse  well  and  soap. 

DARK  BOTTLE  GREEN. 
10  per  cent  immedial  dark  green  B; 
2  per  cent  immedial  yellow  D;  %  per 
cent  immedial  black  N  G;  13  per  cent 
sodium  sulphide;  3  per  cent  soda  ash; 
30  per  cent  Glauber's  salt.  Rinse  well 
and  soap. 

RED. 

5  per  cent  diamine  fast  red;  3  per 
cent  sal  soda;  30  per  cent  Glauber's 
salt.  Rinse  and  aftertreat  with  1  per 
cent  fluoride  chrome. 


FLANNELETTE  , 


Flannelette  is  a  narrow,  light-weigtit 
fabric  composed  of  all  cotton  yarns, 
from  l-30s  to  l-14s  in  the  warp  and  fill- 
ing, the  filling  being  soft  spun  to  per- 
mit of  thie  raising  of  a  very  slight  nap 
on  the  back  of  the  goods. 

The  cloth  is  woven  with  bleached 
yarn  (warp  and  filling),  the  color  ef- 
feiots  beiing  afterwards  printed  upon 
the  face  of  the  goods  by  the  printing 
maclhine. 

Flannelette  is  made  with  simple  one 
or  two  colored  stripe  patterns,  either 
black  and  white,  or  indigo  blue  and 
white,  and  in  elaborate  all-over  floral 
designs  in  imitation  of  jacquard  pat- 
terns, the  ground  colors  being  of  a 
dark  tone,  and  the  figure  of  either 
harmonious  or  contrasting  combina- 
tions of  color.  The  finished  fabric  is 
sold  by  the  retailer  at  8  to  10  cents 
per  yajrd,  27  inches  wide,  and  is  used 
very   extensively   in   the   manufacture 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


75 


of  ladies'  -wrappers,  kimonos,  etc.,  for 
house  wear,  and  which,  when  soilea, 
can  be  thrown  into  the  family  wash 
and  cleaned. 

THE   PRINTING   OPERATION 

is  performed  by  an  automatic  machino, 
which  consists  of  a  series  of  rollers  or 
drums,  over  which  the  cloth  is  passed 
to  hold  it  taut,  and  smooth  all  wrin- 
kles so  that  the  goods  present  an  even 
surface  to  the  printing  roll. 

Upon  this  roller  the  design  or  pat- 
tern is  engraved,  and  the  liquid  color 
being  fed  upon  it  as  it  revolves,  the 
cloth  passes  over  the  surface,  and  re- 
tains an  exact  impression  of  the  de- 
sign (in  colors)  that  has  been  en- 
graved upon  the  roller. 

Flannelette  can  be  woven  in  any 
single  box  roller  loom,  such  as  Drap- 
er, Lowell,  Lewiston,  etc.,  and  the  fin- 
ish means  taking  from  the  loom  and 

DDBHaaBB 
DaBGaiBD 

mmaammna 
■oDBBaaB 

QGBBaOBB 
DBBDOBBD 
BBDOBBUD 
BGGBBDDB 
Desipj 

□nnBDDDB 
DDBD'^rBD 
DBaDDBDD 

BDnnBDan 

DrawiDg-iQ  Draft 

nnBBDDBB 

BBDDBBQC 

Reed  Plan 

DDBB 
DBBQ 
BBDD 
BDDB 
DDBB 
DBBD 
BBDD 
BODB 
U&meas   Cham 

brushing  off,  to  remove  loose  threads, 
then  running  through  the  napper  to 
produce  a  nap  on  the  back  of  the 
goods,  after  which  the  fabric  is  print- 
ed. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

27  inches  finished. 

4  square  inches  equals  4.85  grains. 
27X.36  equals  972x4.85  equals  5,714.20 
divided  by  4  equals  1,428.55  divided  by 
437.5  equals  3.034  ounces  per  yard,  27 
inches  wide. 

20  pieces  white  warp  x  2%  equals 
50  inches  equals  .35  grains.  50x7,000 
equals  350,000  divided  by  .35  equals  1,- 
000,000  divide  by  840  equals  l-30s  cot- 
ton warp. 

16  pieces  white  filling  x  2  equals  ?2 
Inches  equals  .3  grains.  32x7,000 
equals  224,000  divided  by  .3  equals  746,- 
666  divided  by  840  equals  1-2 Is  cotton 
filling. 

Reed  1,460  --29  1-3  inches— 2  ends 
per  dent;  16  ends  selvedge,  10  per  cent 
take-up;  2,376  ends,  l-30s  white  cotton 


warp  (ex.  of  selvedge);  59  picks,  l-24s 
white  cotton  filling  (soft  spun);    —^  458 

tv.-ill  weave  (warp  effect  on  face);  fin- 
ish equals  very  light  nap  on  the  back 
of  the  fabric  or  filling  effect. 

88  ends  per  inch  finished  and  ci 
picks  per  inch  finished  equals  81  ends 
in  reed  and  59  picks  in  loom. 

88x27  equals  2,376  plus  16  equals 
2.392  ends  plus  10  per  cent  take-up 
equals  2,658  yards  l-30s  warp  yarn 
equals  1.687  ounces.  64  picks  x  27 
equals  1,728  yards  l-24s  filling  equals 
1,371  ounces.      Total  3,058  ounces. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  processes  of  machinery  for  mak- 
ing the  required  count  of  yarns  for 
flannelette  may  be  found  in  either  the 
better  class  of  the  first  division  or  in 
the  second  division  of  mills,  as  given 
in  a  previous  lesson.  A  medium  to 
low  grade  of  cotton  of  from  %  to  IVs 
inch  staple  may  be  used,  according  to 
the  grade  or  mill  in  v/hich  the  flannel- 
ette is  made.  Generally  speaking,  a 
cotton  of  %-iuch  staple  is  used.  In 
the  first  division  of  mills  the  mixing 
would  be  done  by  hand,  but  in  the 
second  division  the  equipment  would 
probably  include  a  bale  breaker,  and 
unless  the  mixing  was  pressed  for  the 
catton  would  be  run  through  this  ma- 
chine, and  as  this  machine  will  take 
care  of  80,000  pounds  of  cotton  there 
is  not  much  danger  of  it  being  over- 
worked. 

THE  MIXING 

should  be  as  large  as  possible  and  in 
the  lower  grades  of  flannelette  the 
mixing  would  include  a  small  percent- 
age of  comber  waste,  as  well  as  the 
good  sliver  waste  from  the  cards, 
drawing  frames  and  comber  rooms  (if 
equipment  contains  same).  The  better 
grades  of  flannelette  would  not  use 
waste.  Roving  waste  would  be  used  in 
both  mixings,  but  this  stock  would  not 
be  mixed  until  the  finisher  picker 
process,  and  here  the  waste  should  not 
be  mixed  in  a  grea,ter  proportion  than 
1  to  4.  In  the  modern  equipments  of 
mirlls  generally  only  two  processes  of 
picking,  with  an  opener,  are  used;  but 
as  there  are  a  great  many  mills,  which 
use  three  processes  of  picking,  the 
particulars  will  be  given  for 

THREE  PROCESSES  OF  PICKING. 

For  this  class  of  goods  the  rigid  type 
of  beater  is  used  on  all  picking  ma- 
chines. Keep  the  hopper  of  the  opener 
nore  than  half  full  to  help  obtain  an 
even  lap.     The  speed  of  the  beater  of 


76 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


the  opener  should  be  about  1.000  revo- 
lutions per  minute.  This  machine  ia 
gemerally  used  in  connection  with  the 
breaker  picker,  and  after  the  cotton 
has  pass«id  the  beater,  it  is  passed 
under  a  pair  of  wooden  rollers  onto  an 
endless  lattice  which  carries  it  to  the 
feed  rolls  of  the  breaker  picker.  The 
speed  of  the  beater  of  this  machine 
should  be  about  1,500  revolutions  per 
minute  and  the  weight  of  the  laps  at 
the  front  about  40  pounds  or  about  16 
ounces  to  the  yard. 

THE  DOUBLINGS 

of  the  intermediartie  picker  should  be 
four  into  one  and  the  speed  of  this 
beater  should  be  the  same  as  the  fin- 
isher picker,  or  1,450  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  speed  of  the  fan  at  this 
machine  should  be  about  1,050  revolu- 
tions per  minute.  The  speed  of  the 
driving  shafts  on  this  and  on  the  fin- 
isher picker  should  be  about  375  rev- 
olutions per  minute.  The  weight  of 
the  lap  at  the  front  should  be  a  little 
less  than  sut  the  breaker,  or  about  37 
pounds  or  a  12-ounce  lap.  The  same 
particulars  may  be  used  for  the  finish- 
er picker  with  the  following  excep- 
tions: Speied  of  fan,  1,100  revolutions 
per  minute  and  the  weight  of  the  lap 
ahout  39  pounds  or  about  a  14-ounce 
lap.  These  particulars  will  answer  for 
bo'th  warp  and  filling.  The  lap  is  put 
up  at  the  card  which  should  have  a 
draft  of  about  100.  Set  the  doffer  to 
a  5-gauge  and  use  as  large  a  doffer  as 
possible,  either  a  26  or  27  inch.    The 

PRODUCTION  OF  A  CARD 

for  this  class  of  Avork  should  be  about 
800  pounds,  with  a  65-grain  sliver,  for 
a  week  of  60  hours.  On  this  class  of 
goods  no  combing  is  used,  but  a  three- 
process  drawing.  See  that  the  proper 
■weights  are  attached  to  the  top  rolls. 
The  doublings  are  generally  six  into 
one,  although  eight  into  one  are  used 
in  some  mills.  Don't  draw  more  than 
you  double.  The  draft  should  be  about 
5  at  each  process;  speed  of  front  rolls 
400  revolutions  per  minute.  Watch 
your  settings  of  the  top  rolls  at  these 
machines.  The  hank  roving  made  at 
the  slubber  should  be  about  .55.  Only 
one  process  of  fly  frames  is  used  for 
warp,  the  hank  roving  being  made 
about  2.  Use  square  root  of  hank  x  1.1 
for  twist.  For  the  filling,  two-proc- 
cess  of  fly  frame  is  used:  the  hank 
roving  being  2  at  the  first  interme- 
diate and  3.75  to  4.00  hank  at  the  2d 
iiitGTmediate.  1^^^  sauare  root  of  hank 
X  1.2  for  twist.  The  roving  is  now  car- 
ried to 


THE  SPINNING  ROOM 
where  it  is  made  into  the  required 
count  of  yarn.  For  14s  warp  yarn  use 
the  following  particulars  for  spinning 
frame:  Size  of  spindle,  any  first  class; 
gauge  of  spindle,  3  inches;  diameiter 
of  ring,  2%  inches;  length  of  traverse, 
7  inches.  For  this  class  of  goods  a  soft 
twist  is  used  for  the  warp  yam,  as 
little  as  possible  being  put  in,  but  be 
sure  and  put  in  enough  so  that  the 
yarn  will  not  break  back  in  the  loom. 
For  a  filling  frame  for  30s  yarn  use 
as  follows:  Gauge  of  spindles,  2% 
inches;  diameter  of  ring,  1^  inches, 
length  of  traverse,  6'/^  inches.  The 
warp  yarn  is  then  spooled,  warped  and 
put  through  the  slasher. 


Dyeing   Particulars. 
SKY  BLUE. 
Vz  per  cent  eboli  blue    6  B;   20  per 
cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal  soda. 

PINK. 
1^   per  cent  dioxyrubine  G;    20  per 
cent  Glauber's;   2  per  cent  sal  soda. 

YELLOW. 
y2  per  cent  fast  cotton  yellow  C,  ex- 
tra; 20  per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent 
sal  soda. 

SCARLET. 

3  per  cent  diamine  scarlet  B;  30  per 
cent  Glauber's;   3  per  cent  sal  soda. 

WINE. 

4  per  cent  diamine  Bordeaux  B;  30' 
per  ceait  Glauber's;  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 

RED. 
4  per  cent  diamine  fast  red  F;  30  per 
cent  Glauber's;  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 
CINNAMON  BROWN. 

3  per  cent  diamine  brown  3  G;  30 
per  cent  Glauber's;  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 

BLACK. 
15  per  cent     pyrogene  black    B;   20 
per  cent  sodium  sulphide;   3  per  cent 
soda  ash;  40  per  cent  Glauber's. 
DARK  BROWN. 

4  per  cen!,  chrysophenine;  2  per  cent 
benzo  fast  black;  2%  per  cent  benzo 
fast  red  L;  30  per  cent  Glauber's;  3 
per  cent  sal  soda. 

MYRTLE  GREEN. 
3  per  cent  benzo  green  G  G;-  %  per 
cent  chrysopLenine;   Yz  per  cent  benzo 
fast  black;    30   per  cent  Glauber's;    3 
per  cent  sal  soda.  . 

SLATE. 
1  per  cent  benzo  fast  black;   Yz  per 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


77 


cent  benzo  fast  blue  B  N;  %  per  cemt 
benzo  fast  red  L;  30  per  cent  Glaub- 
er's; 3  per  cent  sal  soda. 

HELIOTROPE. 

2  per  cent  tetrazo  lilac  B;  30  per 
cent  Glauber's;  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 

NAVY  BLUE. 
5  per  cent  tetrazo  indigo  blue  C;  30 
per  cent     Glauber's;    3  per     cent  sal 
soda. 

ORANGE. 

3  per  cent  tetrazo  chlorine  orange 
R;  30  per  cent  Glauber's;  3  per  cent 
sal  soda. 

LEMON  YELLOW. 
11/2   per  cent  tetrazo  lemon  yellow; 
30  per  cent  Glauber's;   3  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

♦-•-♦ 


DENl. 


Denim  is  a  strong,  medium-welgH't, 
single-cloth  fabric,  weighing  from  4^ 
to  5  ounces  per  yard  and  composed  ol 
single  cotton  yarn  in  warp  and  filling. 

It  is  usually  made  with  a  small,  un- 
even-sided twill  weave,  such  as  - —  45° 
twill,  and  in  sodid  color  warp  ef- 
fects, generally  indigo  blue  or  dark 
brown,  and  white  filling.  White  sel- 
vedge is  used  in  all  grades. 

A  grade  known  as  covert  cloth  is 
made  of  twist  yarn  in  the  warp,  and 
dark  colored,  single  filling.  The  twist 
yarns  are  usuallly  blue  and  white  and 
the  cloth  of  a  similar  texture  to  that 
of  the  regular  denim. 

In  effect  denim  is  a  stout,  twilled 
fabric,  having  excellent  wearing  quali- 
ties, and  is  made  to  sell  at  10c.  to  15c. 
per  yard,  retail.  It  is  used  principally 
in  the  manufacture  of  overalls,  to  be 
worn  by  workmen  who  opeirate  ma- 
chinery, or  by  those  who  perform  hard, 
rough  labor  of  any  description. 

Denim  can  be  woven  in  any  singie 
box  roller  loom,  such  as  Mason,  Lowell, 
Lewiston,  Colvin,  etc.,  the  warp  being 
prepared  on  the  slasher,  in  the  same 
manner  as  a  sheeting  warp.  It  is  tnen 
drawn  in  on  the  harness  or  heddles,  m 
accordance  with  weave  desired. 

The  finish  of  this  fabric  is  a  rather 
heavy  sizing,  after  which  the  goods  are 
dried  and  pressed. 

Denim  is  sometimes  dyed  in  the 
piece,  in  light  shades  of  tan,  blue,  etc., 
and  the  goods  made  up  into  summer 
outing  skirts  for  ladies'   wear. 

1  square  in.  equals  2.6  grains.     27  x 


36  equals  972  x  2.6  equals  2,527.2  divided 
by  1  equals  2,527.2  divided  by  437.5 
equals  5.77  ounces  per  yard,  27  Inches 
wide  finisihed. 

20  pieces  blue  warp  x  1  inch  equals 
20  inches  equals  .5  grains.  20  x  7,000 
equals  140,000  divided  by  .5  equals  2,- 
800,000  divided  by  36  equals  7,777.7V 
divided  by  840  equals  l-9s  warp. 


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15  pieces  white  filling  x  3  inches 
equals  45  inches  equals  .65  grains.  4b 
X  7,000  equals  315,000  divided  by  .bo 
equals  484,615  divided  by  36  equals  13,- 
461.43  divided  hy  840  equals  l-16s  fill- 
ing. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

— ^   twill  45° 

68  ends  per  inch  finished  and  42 
picks  per  inch  finished  equals  63  ends 
in  reed  and  40  picks  in  loom. 

Reed  750 — 29  inches — 3  ends  per  dent. 
10  per  cent  take-up — 32  ends  selvedge. 
40  picks,  l-16s  white  cotton  filling. 

1,836  ends  blue  yarn  and  32  ends 
white  yarn  selvedge  equals  l-9s  cotton 
warp. 

1,836  +  32  equals  1,868  +  10  per  cent  take 
=  2,076  yards  1-9  warp  = 4.39  ozs. 

42  picks  X  27  inches  =  1,134  yards  1-16 
filling    = 1.35  ozs. 

5.74  ozs. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Denim  is  constructed  of  yarns  that 
are  made  in  either  the  first  or  second 
divisions  of  mills  as  given  in  a  pre- 
vious lesson.  In  the  second  divison 
O'f  mills  the  raw  stock  would  be  run 
through  a  bale  breaker,  as  this  class 
of  mills  would  undoubtedly  contain 
this  machine  in  their  equipment.  In 
the  first  division  of  mills  the  mixing 
would  be  done  by  hand.  When  bale 
breakers  are  used,  it  is  of  great  ad- 
vantage to  have  a  blower  in  connection 
with  them.  This  blower  is  generally 
placed  at  the  delivery  end  of  the  ma- 
chine and  blows  the  cotton,  after  it 
has  passed  through  the  bale  breaker, 
throug'h  trunking  onto  an  endless  lat- 
tice which  deposits  it  in  the  mixing 
bins.  A  blower  is  of  advantage  be- 
cause it  opens  the  cotton  and  the  cur- 
rent of  air  helps  to  dry  it  and  the  cot- 
ton does  not  have  to  dry  out  in   the 


78 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


mixing  bins  as  is  the  case  when  a  blow- 
er is  not  used.    Mixing  is 

A  VERY  IMPORTANT  PART 

of  the  card  room  and  too  little  atten- 
tion is  generally  given  to  it.  It  wiii 
be  understood  that  if  the  cotton  is  not 
properly  mixed,  this  defect  cannot  be 
remedied  at  any  subsequent  machine. 
Cotton  of  the  same  length  of  staple 
should  always  be  used,  cotton  of  the 
same  nature,  and  where  waste  is  used 
the  percentage  should  be  as  small  as 
it  is  possible  to  make  it.  Th9  same 
mixing  may  be  used  for  making  of  both 
the  warp  and  filling  yarns,  a  medium 
to  low  grade  being  used  of  a  staple 
length  of  about  one  inch  (ranging  from 
%  to  IVs  inches,  according  to  the 
quality  of  denim  being  made).  A  small 
percentage  of  comber  waste  may  be 
used,  but  is  not  advisable.  The  good 
"sliver  waste  from  the  cards  and  draw- 
ing frames  is  mixed  with  the  raw  stock 
and  the  roving  waste  is  mixed  in  the 
manner  described- in  a  previous  article. 
The  cotton  would  be  put  through  two 
processes  of  picking  and  an  opener. 
Keep  the  hopper  of  the  opener  well 
filled  Math  cotton  so  that  the  lifting 
apron  will  always  be  carrying  up  a 
full  load  of  cotton  to  the  pin  roller. 
The 

SPEED  OF  THE  BEATER 

of  the  opener  should  be  about  1,050 
revolutions  per  minute,  the  speed  ot 
the  fan  being  about  350  revolutions  per 
minute.  If  porcupine  beater  is  used, 
the  speed  should  be  about  1,150  revolu- 
tions per  minute.  The  speed  of  a  two- 
bladed  beater  of  a  rigid  type  of  the 
breaker  picker  should  be  about  1,500 
revolutions  per  minute,  the  speed  of 
the  fan  being  about  100  revolutions 
less.  The  total  weight  of  the  lap  at 
the  head  end  should  be  about  40 
pounds,  or  20  ounces  to  the  yard.  The 
doublings  at  the  finisher  picker  are 
4  into  1  and  the  speed  of  the  beater 
(2  bladed  rigid  type),  1,450  revolutions 
per  minute,  which  will  beat  the  cotton 
sheet  presented  to  it  about  42  times 
per  inch  in  length.  The  weigbt  ot  tne 
lap  in  the  front  should  be  as  heavy  as 
possible  and  at  the  same  time  not  over- 
work the  card.  A  good  weight  would 
be  39  pounds  or  a  14-ounce  lap  (for  a 
38  inch  lap).     The 

DRAFT  OF  THE  CARD 

should  not  exceed  100  and  should  oe 
not  less  than  90.  The  sliver  should 
weigti  65  grains  per  yard  and  the  pro- 
duction about  850  pounds  for  a  week 
of  60  hours.  Keep  your  card  wire 
sharp  and  be  sure  that  your  top  flats 
are  ground  even,  because  close  and  ac- 


curate settings  cannot  be  obtained 
when  the  wire  on  the  flats  is  not  of  a 
uniform  length.  Large  doffers  should 
also  be  used.  The  sliver  would  then  be 
put  through  two  processes  of  drawing 
frames,  the  speed  of  the  front  roll  (1% 
inches  diameter)  being  400  revolutions 
per  minute  on  each  set.  The  drart 
should  not  be  more  than  the  doublings 
and  the  sliver  should  weigh  about  (0 
grains  per  j^ard. 

THE  PRODUCTION 

being  about  260  pounds  per  delivery  per 
day  of  10  hours.  When  metallic  rolls 
are  used,  the  prodi.ction  would  be  con- 
siderably greater  or  about  350  under 
the  conditions  noted  above.  Metallic 
rolls  are  coming  more  and  more  into 
use,  especially  on  the  lower  counts  ot 
yarns,  and  also  on  a  heavy  sliver;  al- 
though they  can  be  used  on  all  grades 
and  lengths  of  staple,  they  are  not  gen- 
erally used,  but  not  through  any  fault 
of  the  rolls,  as  they  are  suitable  for 
producing  fine  work.  The  slubber 
draws  the  sliver  into  .55  hank  and  the 
one-process  fiy  frames  used  makes  the 
roving  into  a  1.75  hank  roving.  Some- 
times two  different  hanks  are  made  at 
the  fly  frame,  one  for  the  warp  and 
one  for  the  filling  yams;  where  this  is 
the  case,  the  warp  yam  is  made  from 
one  hank  roving  and  the  filling  from 
2.00  hank.  The  particulars  for  the 
warp  spinning  frame  for  No.  9s  are  as 
follows:  Front  roll,  one  in.  diameter; 
gauge  of  frame,  3  in.;  diameter  of 
ring,  21/4  in.;  length  of  traverse,  7  in.; 
for  a  filling  frame  making  l6s  use 
gauge  of  frame,  2%  in.;  diameter  of 
ring,  1%  in.;  length  of  traverse,  6^4  in. 
The  warp  yarn  is  then  spooled,  wari)ed 
and  put  through  the  slasher. 


Dyeing   Particulars. 

BLUE. 

6  per  cent  katigen  indigo  B;  o  per 
cent  katigen  indigo  5  G;  12  per  cent  sul- 
phide sodium;  4  per  cent  soda  ash;  30 
per  cent  salt;  after  treat  with  1^/^  per 
cent  bichrome,  2  per  cent  copper  sul- 
phate and  4  per  cent  acetic  acid.  Rinse 
well  and  soap. 

BLACK. 

15  per  cent  immedial  black  N  N;  15 
per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  30  per  cent 
Glauber's  salt;  4  per  cent  soda  ash. 
Rinse  well  and  soap. 

BROWN. 

6  per  cent  thion  brown  G;  6  per  cent 
thion  brown  B;  2  per  cent  Ifliion  yel- 
low R;  14  per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  4 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


79 


per  cent  soda  ash;  30  per  cent  salt; 
after  treat  3  per  cent  bichrome,  3  per 
cent  sulphate  copper;  5  per  cent  acetic 
acid.     Rinse    well   and   soap. 

SLATE. 

5  per  cent  pyrogene  black  B;  5  per 
cent  sodium  sulphide;  2  per  cent  soda 
ash;  20  per  cent  salt.  Rinse  well  and 
soap. 

DARK  GREEN. 

10  per  cent  immedlal  green  G;  ^/^  per 
cent  immedial  black  N  B;  10  per  cent 
sulphide  sodium;  4  per  cent  soda  ash; 
30  per  cent  Glauber's  salt.  Rinse  well 
and  soap. 

RED. 

8  per  cent  diamine  fast  red  F;  30  per 
cent  Glauber's  salt;  3  per  cent  soda 
crystals.  Rinse  and  after  treat  2  per 
cent  fluoride  chrome  at  160  degrees  P. 


BOURRETTE. 


Bourrette  is  a  light  weight,  single 
cloth  fabric,  weighing  from  4%  to  6 
ounces,  composed  of  two-ply  cotton 
warp,  and  either  wool,  merino  or  a 
combination  of  cotton  and  wool  shod- 
dy filling.  Both  the  warp  and  the  fill- 
ing have  an  occasional  end  or  pick  of 
fancy  bourrette  or  nub  yarn  added  for 
effect;    hence   the   name. 

In  appearance  bonrrette  cloth  is  a 
semi-rough-faced  woolen  fabric,  hav- 
ing small  fancy  colored  lumps  on  the 
yarn,  scattered  throughout  the  goods 
in  accordance  v/ith  the  effect  desired. 
The  cloth  when  finished  is  used  princi- 
pally in  the  manufacture  of  ladies' 
fall    suitings. 

THE  WEAVE 

Is  usually  a  — j  plain  weave.or  a  mixed 
twill  effect,  such  as  can  be  produced 
from  the  regular  — ^  45  degrees  twill, 
viz.:  diamond  or  entwining  twill 
weaves.  These  weaves,  in  connection 
with  certain  warp  and  filling  patterns, 
such  as  1  black,  1  fancy  twist  or  2 
black,  2  fancy  twist,  create  very  elab- 
orate styles,  as  this  color  arrangement 
serves  to  hide  the  rigid  outline  of  the 
design,  and  thus  has  a  tendency  to 
complicate  the  general  appearance  of 
the  weave  used  in  the  fabric. 

The  fancy  effects  in  twist  that  can 
be  adapted  to  this  line    are  made  by 


twisting  the  following  colors  together, 
viz.: 

Black   and    white. 

Black  and  light  blue. 

Black  and  light  green. 

Black  and  old  gold. 

Black  and  red. 

Black  and  lig'M  brown. 

These  twist  yarns  serve  the  purpose 
of  brightening  up  the  general  appear- 
ance of  the  goods. 

Bourrette  cloth  can  be  woven  in  any 
power  loom,  excepting  those  styles 


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wherein  a  single  pick  of  the  fancy 
yarn  is  introduced  in  the  filling,  in 
which  case  the  KnoAvles  4x4  pick  and 
pick  dobby  loom    is  very  serviceable. 

TO   FINISH   THIS  FABRIC, 

the  goods  are  taken  from  the  loom  and 
measured, after  which  they  are  brushed 
then  scoured  iu  a  solution  of  soap  and 
cold  water,  then  tentered  and  dried 
and  pressed. 

The  bourrette  yarn  is  made  by  twist- 
ing two  cotton  threads  and  a  worsted 
thread  together,  the  worsted  being  al- 
lowed to  deliver  more  quickly  than  the 
cotton  threads,  at  regular  intervals. 

The  excess  which  is  delivered  is 
twisted  around  the  cotton  threads  in 
the  one  place,  thereby  forming  a  Inmj) 
on  the  twisted  yarn,  as  the  worsted 
yarn  is  run  at  a  varied  speed,  and  is 
not  regularly  distributed  around  the 
cotton  threads. 

CONSTRUCTION. 
4  souare  inches  equals  7.61  grains. 
33x36  equals  1,188  times  7.61  equals 


80 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


904,068  divided  by     4     equals     2,260.17 
.  divided  by  437.5  equals  5.11  ounces,  33 
inches  wide  from  loom. 

25  pieces  black  warp  times  2  equals 
4G   inches  equals  1.41  grains. 

46x7,000  equals  322,000  divided  by 
1.41  equals  228,368  divided  by  36  equals 
6,343.5  divided  by  840  equals  2-14s. 

22  pieces  twist  warp  times  2%  equals 
55  inches  equals  2  grains. 

55x7,000  equals  385,000  divided  by  2 
equals  178,804  divided  by  36  equals 
5,2]  6.8  divided  by  840  equals  2-12s. 

3C  pieces  black  merino  filling  times 
2  equals  CO  inches  equals  3  grains. 

60x7.000  equals  420,000  divided  by  3 
equals  140,000  divided  by  36  eouals 
3,838  divided  by  300  equals  l-12s  cut. 

10  per  cent  up. 

Reed, 400  minus  1  end  per  deni  minus 
36  inches  wide,  including'  selvedge  of 
16  ends  2-14s  black,  24  picks,  1-12  cut 
merino  equals  75  per  cent  Wool  and  25 
per  cent  cotton. 

Warp  pattern:  1  black  equals  2-14s 
cotton;   1  twist  equals  2-12s  cotton. 

24  picks  times  36  equals  864  yards 
1-12  merino  equals  3.84  ounces. 

102  ends  black  plus  16  equals  203 
plus  10  per  cent  take-up  equals  231 
yards  2-"J4s  equals  6.28  ounces;  102 
ends  twist  plus  10  per  cent  take-up 
equals  21o  yards  2-12s  equal  .676 
ounces,  total,  5.144  ounces  per  yard 
loom. 

Finish — Scour,  tenter  and  steam 
press,  to  loom  v/idth. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

In  the  class  of  goods  under  descrip- 
tion it  will  be  noticed  that  there  is  a 
very  small  percentage  of  cotton  con- 
tained in  its  make  up.  If  the  cotton 
yarn  that  this  class  of  goods  contains 
was  made  in  a  cotton  mill,  the  follow- 
ing particulars  would  be  a  good  foun- 
dation on  which  to  base  the  speeds, 
weight  and  processes  through  which 
the  raw  stock  would  have  to  pass  be- 
fore being  turned  out  into  2-ply  12s  or 
2-1 4s  yarn,  as  the  case  may  be.  This 
class  of  yarn  may  be  made  in  the  first 
division  of  mills,  and  the  cotton  would 
be  hand  mixed  and  put  in  the  bins. 
The  mixing  should  be  allowed  to  dry 
out  as  much  as  possible  before  using, 
and  a  better  plan  would  be  to  have 
two  large  mixing  bins  so  that  when 
one  was  in  use  the  other  one  might  be 
filled  and  the  cotton  dried.  This  is 
not  always  done,  because  most  picker 
rooms  are  pressed  for  fioor  space. 

THE  RAW  STOCK 

should  be  put  through  two  processes  of 
picking  and  an  opener.        The      good 


waste  from  pickers,  cards  and  draw- 
ing frames  should  be  put  into  the  mix- 
ing bin  before  running  it  through  the 
opener.  Always  keep  the  hopper  of  the 
opener  more  than  half  full  and  gauge 
your  stripping  roller  so  that  quite  a 
heavy  weight  of  cotton  is  passed  to 
the  action  of  the  beater.  The  speod 
of  the  beater  for  the  opener  should  be 
about  1,000  revolutions  per  minute, 
the  speed  of  the  fan  about  350  revolu- 
tions per  minute.  This  machine  is 
used  in  connection  with  the  breaker 
picker  and  the  speed  of  the  beater  (2 
bladed  rigid  type)  should  be  about 
1,500  revolutions  per  minute.  The 
weight  of  the  lap  at  the  front  should 
be  about  40  pounds  or  a  20  ounce  lap 
to  the  yard.  The  laps  from  the  break- 
er picker  are  put  up  at  the  finisher 
picker  and  doubled  4  into  1.  TTic 
speed  of  the  beater  at  this  machine 
should  be  about  1,450  revolutions  per 
minute,  which  gives  about  42  blows 
per  inch  of  cotton  fed.    The 

WEIGHT  OF  THE  LAP 

should  be  about  40  pounds  or  a  14^ 
ounce  lap.  Care  should  be  taken  to  see 
that  the  variation  in  the  total  weight 
of  the  laps  delivered  at  the  front  of 
the  finisher  picker  is  not  more  than 
three-quarters  of  a  pound  from  stand- 
ard weight  for  raw  stock  to  make 
goods  under  description, and  the  amount 
of  variation  for  the  finer  classes  of 
goods  should  not  exceed  one-half  a 
pound  from  sitandard.  When  laps  are 
found  to  vary  more  than  above  noted, 
they  should  be  placed  at  the  back  of 
the  finisher  picker  and  run  over.  If 
a  great  degree  of  variation  is  found, 
i.  e.,  if  the  standard  is  40  lbs.,  and  laps 
are  delivered  which  weigh  39i/4,  41. 
39,  40%,  and  so  on,  it  shows  that  the 
picker  needs  adjustment,  and  on  ail 
makes  of  machines  there  are  devices 
to  regulate  these  small  variations.  The 
laps  are  put  up  at  the  card  and  the 
draft  of  this  machine  should  not  ex- 
ceed  100. 

THE  WIRE  FILLET 
should  be  coarser,  so  as  to  stand  the 
pressure  of  the  weight  and  amount  of 
cotton  to  be  passed  through.  This 
wire  should  be  kept  sharp  by  fre- 
quent grindings  with  the  grinding  rol- 
lers. The  weight  of  the  sliver  should 
be  about  65  grains  to  the  jard.  and  the 
production  of  a  card  for  60  hours  on 
this  class  of  goods  should  be  not  less 
than  850  pounds.  The  cotton  is  put 
through  two  processes  of  drawing.  The 
speed  of  the  front  roller  in  each  case 
should  be  400  revolutions  per  minute. 
On  this  grade  of  cotton  it  would  be  of 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


81 


great  advantage  if  metallic  rails  were 
used.  The  weig-ht  of  the  sliver  at  the 
front  of  the  finisher  drawing  frame 
should  be  about  70  gxains  to  the  yard. 
The  sliver  at  the  drawing  frames 
should  be  weighed  about  three  times  a 
day  to  see  that  it  is  the  proper  weight. 
The  slubber  roving  should  weigh 
about  .51)  hank.  Only  one  process  of 
fly  frames  is  used  and  the  hank  at  this 
should  be  about  1.50.  The  roving  is 
then  carried  to 

THE  SPINNING  ROOM, 

when  it  is  spun  to  the  required  count 
yarn.  The  particulars  to  spin.  12s  on  a 
warp  frame  are  as  follows:  gauge  of 
frame  three  inches;  diameter  of  ring, 
2-/^  inches;  length  of  traverse,  7 
inches;  twist  per  inch,  16.45;  speed  of 
spindle,  9,000  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  same  particulars  may  be  iised  for 
making  14s  3^arn  with  the  following 
exceptions,  that  somewhat  different 
particulars  are  required  for  the  spin- 
ning frame.  The  warp  yarn  is  then 
spooled  and  taken  to  the  twister  Avheu 
it  is  made  into  2-ply  or  2-14s  as  the 
case  may  be,  after  which  it  is  sized 
at  the  slasher. 


Dyeing    Particulars. 
BLACK. 

10  per  cent  immedial  brilliant  black 
B,  10  per  cent  sulphide  sodium,  3  per 
cent  soda  ash,  30  per  cent  Glauber's. 

For  the  threads  of  colored  yarn 
which  are  mixed  with  the  black  and 
white,  fast  sulphur  colors  are  dyed. 

For  union  yarn  a  one-dip  aniline 
union  black  is  generally  dyed. 

LIGHT  BLUE. 

10  per  cent  pyrogene  indigo,  20  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium,  10  per  cent  soda 
ash,  35  per  cent  salt,  3  pints  mineral 
odl. 

LIGHT  GREEN. 

8  per  cent  pyrogene  green  G,  16  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium,  6  per  cent  soda 
ash,  30  per  cent  salt. 

OLD  GOLD. 

4  peir  cent  pyrol  bronze,  2  per  cent 
pyrol  yellow,  6  per  cent  sulphide  sodi- 
um, 3  per  cent  soda  ash,  30  per  cent 
Glauber's. 

RED. 

5  per  cent  benzo  fast  red,  3  per  cent 
sal  soda.  30  per  cent  Glauber's. 


cent  sulphide  sodium,  3  per  cent  soda 
ash,  30  per  cent  Glauber's. 

OLIVE. 

4  per  cent  immedial  oliA'e  3G,  1  per 
cent  immedial  cutch  O,  3  per  cent  soda 
ash,  30  per  cent  Glauber's,  5  per  cent 
sulphide  sodium. 


FANCY  SHIRTING. 


LIGHT  BROWN. 
10  per  cent  thion  brown  G,    10 


per 


Fancy  shirting  is  a  light-weight, 
single  cloth  wash  fabric,  weighing 
from  two  to  three  ounces  per  yard, 
and  composed  of  regular,  single,  cot- 
ton yarns,  l-26s  to  1-403  in  warp  and 
filling. 

It  is  made  in  simple  stripe  patterns 
either  printed  on  the  woven,  bleached 

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Draft  Drawing-in-draft 

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■■[UDBBGaaBBGaBa  bbzlbboq 

Reed  Reed   Plan 

Idea  for  fancy  weave 

fabric,  or  of  fast  colors,  dyed  iipon 
the  warp.  Combinations  of  each  are 
sometimes  formed  to  create  attrac- 
tive styles. 

THE  WEAVE 
used  is  eitJier  the  plain       —    or  this 
combined  with  a  fancy  rib  or  basket 
weave. 

Fancy  shirting  is  made  to  retail  at  8 
to  12y2  cents  per  yard,  and  is  used 
in  men's  outing  and  working  shirts, 
ladies'  and  children's  waists,  blouses 
and  summer  suits.  It  is  from  the  con- 
sumer's standpoint  a  practically  inex- 
pensive material,  which,  when  the  gar- 
ment becomes  soiled,  can  become  a 
part  of  the  family  wash  and  be  readily 
renovated. 

Those  grades  in  which  the  plain 
weave  alone  is  used  are  best  adapted 
to  the  plain  single  box  roller  room. 
The  fancy  styles, in  which  a  more  elab- 
orate weave  effect  is  desired,  require 
a  loom  having  a  dobby  or  witch  top 
attached.  The  Knowles  1x1  loom,  hav- 


82 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


ing  a  Stafford  dobby  top,  is  very  pop- 
ulai'  for  this  style  of  cloth. 

THE    FAST   WARP    COLORS, 

generally  used  In  connection  with  the 
bleached  or  white  yarns  to  create  a 
range  of  patterns  for  this  fabric,  are: 
Dark  blue,  dark  green,  black,  red, 
lavender,  pink,  ecru,  tan,  light  green, 
light  blue  and  \iolet. 

FINISHING. 

To  finish  this  fabric  the  goods  are 
taken  from  the  loom  and  run  through 
the  washer,  after  which  they  are  very 
lightly  sized,  then  dried  by  the  process 
of  tentering  (this  also  prevents  undue 
shrinkage  in  width).  After  drying 
run  through  the  calender  to  press  out 
•wrinkles.also  to  bring  up  a  clear,  even 
face.  Then  the  goods  are  ready  to 
lap  and  fold  in  readiness  for  the 
shipper. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

4  square  inches  equals  4.18  grains. 

27x36  equals  972x4.18  equals  4,062.9G 
divided  by  4  equals  1,015.74  divided  by 
437.5  equals  2.319  ounces  per  yard,  27 
inches  wide. 

12  pieces  blue  warp  times  li/^  equals 
18  inches  equals  .16  grains. 

18x7,000  equals  126.000  divided  by  .16 
equals  787,500  divided  by  36  equals  21,- 
878  divided  by  840  equals  l-2od  blue 
warp  ya.rn  (cotton). 

12  pieces  white  warp  times  11^ 
equals  18  inches  equals  .16  grains. 

18x7,000  equals  126,000  divided  by  .16 
equals  787,500  divided  by  36  equals  27.- 
878  divided  by  840  equals  l-26s  white 
warp  yarn  (cotton). 

19  pieces  white  filling  times  2  equals 
38  inches  equals  .25  grains. 

19x7,000  equals  266,000  divided  by  .25 
equals  1,064,000  divided  by  36  equals 
29,833  divided  by  804  equals  l-36s 
white  filling  yarn   (cotton). 

27  inches  finished. 

Reed,  1,150  minus  29  inches  minus  2 
ends  per  dent;  54  picks  minus  l-3Gs 
white  cotton  filling;  l-26s  cotton  warp; 
10  per  cent  take-up;  1,858  ends  in  warp 
plus  32  white  selvedge. 

WARP  PATTERN. 


7    times. 


3  white. 
•1  light    blue 
3  white. 

1  lig-ht  blue. 
3  white. 

2  white  in  1  heddle. 
8  light  blue. 

2  white  in  1  heddle. 
47  ends  per  pattern,  39  repeats  of  pattern 
plus  25  ends.    Start  at  *. 

16   blue  ends   per   pattern   times   39 


repeats  equals  624  plus  7  equals  6D1 
blue  ends. 

31  white  ends  per  pattern  times  39 
repeats  equals  1,209  plus  18  plus  32 
ends  selvedge  equals  1,250  white  ends. 

631  blue  ends  l-26s  plus  10  per  ceat 
equals  701  yards  equals  .513  ounces; 
1.250  white  ends  l-26s  plus  10  per  cent 
equals  1,388  yards  equals  1.001  ounces; 
54  picks  times  29  l-36s  filling  equals  1,- 
5f'6  yards  equals  .828  ounces;  total,  2.- 
342  ounces. 

Finish,  wash,  size,  calender. 


Carding  ar.d  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  fabric  known  as  fancy  shirting 
is  made  up  of  yarns,  the  counts  of 
which  vary  from  20s  to  60s,  according 
to  the  mills  making  them,  and  also 
according  to  the  grade  being  made. 
For  the  particulars  that  will  be  de- 
scribed below  we  will  consider  that  the 
shirtings  are  made  up  of  l-26swarp  and 
1-40S  filling.  It  is  not  customary  for 
both  yarns  to  be  made  out  of  the  same 
length  of  staple  or  grade  of  cotton,  al- 
though in  some  instances  this  may  be 
done.  For  the  40s  yarn  a  good  graxle 
of  raw  stock  of  about  IVi  to  1%  inches 
stock  should  be  used  and  for  the  20s 
yarn  a  cotton  of  about  1  1-16  to  1  3-16 
inch  staple  may  be  used  with  advan- 
tage. The  raw  stock  in  both  cases 
should  be  put  through  the  bale  break- 
er and  deposited  in  their  different 
bins,  being  allowed  to  stand  as  long 
as  possible  before  using.  This  is  for 
the  puiT)ose  of  drying  out  the  cotton 
as  it  is  easier  to  work  when  in  this 
condition.  An  opener  and  two  proc- 
esses of  picking  are  generally  used, 
although  it  is  the  custom  in  many 
mills  to  use  three  processes.  When  the 
latter  is  the  case,the  particulars  given 
for  the  finisher  picker  may  be  used, ex- 
cept that  the  speed  of  the  fan  is  not 
so  great,  also  that  the  laps  are  of  a  lit- 
tle lighter  weight.  The  hopper  of  the 
opener  should  be  kept  well  filled  so 
that  an  even  amount  of  cotton  will  be 
always  fed  to  the  feed  roll  of  the 
breaker  picker.  The  speed  of  the  beat- 
er (2  bladed  rigid  type)  should  be  about 
1,000  revolutions  per  minute;  the  fan,- 
about  350  revolutions  per  minute.  The 
speed  of  the  beater  of  the  breaker 
should  be  about  1,500  revolutions  per 
minute  and  for  the  f.nisher  picker  1,- 
450  revolutions  per  minute.  This  gives 
the  cotton  passing  through  about  42 
beats  per  inch.  The  weight  of  lap  at 
the  breaker  picker  is  40  pounds,  or  16 
ounces  to  the  yard.  At  the  finisher 
(and  intermediate  picker  if  used)  the 
doublings  are  four  into  one.  The  rov- 
ing cut  waste  is  mixed  at  the  back  of 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


83 


the  finisher  picker  in  the  usual  man- 
ner. The  weight  of  the  laps  at  the  de- 
livery end  of  the  finisher  picker  is  35 
pounds  for  the  longer  stapled  cotton 
and  39  pounds  for  the  shorter.or  a  12% 
ounce  lap  for  the  filling  yarn  and  a 
14^4  ounce  lap  for  the  warp  yarn.  The 
cards  are  set  about  the  same  in  both 
cases,  except  where  they  are  required 
to  be  set  according  to  the  length  of 
staple. 

The  draft  of  the  card  should  not 
exceed  100  for  the  warp  yam  and 
should  not  be  less  than  100  for  the  fill- 
ing yarn.  As  large  a  doffer  as  possi- 
ble should  be  used  with  both  stocks, 
and  the  weight  of  the  sliver  should  be 
about  65  grains.  The  production  would 
be  750  pounds  per  week  of  60  hours  for 
the  filling  cotton  and  850  pounds  for 
the  warp  yarn.  Always  keep  the  wire 
sharp  and  never  under  any  circum- 
stances allow  it  to  become  dull.  Grind 
cylinder  and  doifer  wire  at  least  once 
a  month  for  half  a  day  and  grind  top 
flats  twice  a  month  with  "dead  roll- 
er." Strip  cards  three  times  a  day, 
both  cylinder  and  doifer.  Some  over- 
seers strip  cylinders  twice  and  doffers 
three  or  four  times.  This,  the}'  claim, 
saves  time  asthe doffer  maybe  stripped 
while  running  and  the  sliver  is  not 
as  uneven  as  when  ti,oth  doffer  and 
cylinder  are  stripped  at  the  same  time. 
In  the  mills  making  fine  yarns  it  is 
the  general  custom  to  strip  three  times 
a  day.  Three  processes  of  drawing  are 
used  for  both  warp  and  filling.  The 
only  difference  made  in  these  machines 
is  that  the  rolls  are  spread  differently 
for  the  different  lengths  of  staple.  The 
weight  of  the  sliver  should  be  about  70 
grains  in  both  cases. 

The  slubber  makes  this  sliver  into 
50  hank  roving,  the  standard  twist 
being  obtained  by  multiplying  the 
square  of  the  hank  roving  bj''  the  con- 
stant 1.  On  the  finer  classes  and  long 
stapled  cotton  the  front  top  rolls  of 
the  slubber  are  varnished,  but  this 
class  of  goods  does  not  require  this 
to  be  done.  The  roving  for  the  warp 
yarns  is  put  through  two  processes  of 
fly  frames,  the  hank  at  the  first  inter- 
mediate being  1.50  and  at  the  second 
intermediate  3.  The  filling  roving  is 
put  through  two  processes  of  fly 
frames,  the  hank  roving  at  the  first 
intermediate  being  2,  and  at  the  sec- 
ond intermediate  5.  The  twist  stand- 
ard is  obtained  by  multiplying  the 
square  root  of  the  hank  by  1.1  for  both 
cottons.  Take  special  care  of  your  top 
rolls  to  see  that  they  are  in  perfect 
condition  and  not  channeled,  cut,  un- 
even, oil  soaked,  dry  at  the  bearings, 


loose  or  unevenly  weighted.  Look  out 
for  the  settings  of  all  fly  frame  rolls. 
The  roving  is  carried  to  the  spinning 
room,  where  it  is  drawn  into  the  re- 
quired count.  For  26s  count  warp  yarn 
a  frame  with  the  following"  particulars 
may  be  used:  Gauge  of  frame  2% 
inches,  diameter  of  ring  1%  inches, 
length  of  traverse  QV2  inches,  twist  per 
inch  24  plus,  speed  of  spindle  9,700  rev- 
olutions per  minute.  For  a  filling 
making  40s,  the  particulars  haAe  been 
given  in  a  previous  lesson.  The  warp 
yarn  is  then  s])ooled,  warped  and  run 
through  a  slasher. 


Dyeing   Particulars, 
DARK  BLUE. 

5  per  cent  immedial  blue  C,  5  per 
cent  immedial  blue  C  R,  1  per  cent  im- 
medial black  N  N,  10  per  cent  sodium 
sulphide,  30  i>er  cent  Glauber's,  3  per 
cent  soda  ash. 

DARK  GREEN. 
15  per  cent  thiogene  green  B,  15  per 
cent  sodium  sulphide,  3  per  cent  soda 
ash,  30  per  cent  Glauber's. 

BLACK. 
15  per  cent  melanogen  black    G,     15 
per  cent  sodium  sulphide,  3    per    cent 
soda  ash,  30  per  cent  Glauber's. 
RED. 

6  per  cent  primuline,  diazortized  and 
developed  with  Beta  naphthol. 

LAVENDER. 
Vi  per  cent  diamine  blue,  3  R    pat., 
after  treated  with  M>  per  cent  sulphate 
of  copper  at  160  degrees  F. 
PINK. 
%  per  cent  diamine  rose  B  D,  30  per 
cent  Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 
ECRU. 
2  per  cent  katigen  yellow  brown  G  G, 
2  per  cent  sodium  sulphide,  20  per  cent 
Glauber's,  2  per  cent  soda  ash. 
TAN. 
5  per  cent  thion  brown  G,  5  per  cent 
sodium  sulphide,  2  per  cent  soda  ash, 
20  per  cent  Glauber's. 

LIGHT  GREEN 
on  a  tannin  and  tartar    emetic    mor- 
dant. Dye  y2  per  cent  thioflavine  T,  ^ 
per  cent  new  methylene  blue  G  G. 
LIGHT  BLUE. 
2  per  cent  immedial  sky  blue,    2    pel 
cent  sodium  sulphide,  2  per  cent  soda 
ash,  20  per  cent  Glauber's. 
VIOLET. 
1  per  cent  diamine  blue  3  R  pat.,  af- 
ter treated  with   %  per  cent  sulphate 
of  copper  at  160  degrees  F. 


s^ 


COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


TAPE, 


Tape  is  a  very  narrow  fabric,  com- 
liosed  o«f  either  cotton  or  linen  yarns 
in  warij  and  lilling,  and  usually  made 
with  a  point  or  broken  twill  \vea.\e, 
the  break  in  the  weave  occurring  in 
the  centre  of  the  tape,  and  the  twill 
lines  running  in  a  right  and  left  hand 
direction. 

It  is  made  of  all  bleached  yarns.  It 
is  made  of  regular  yarns  about  l-26s 
to  ]-30s  and  l-40s  cotton  and  is  used 
as  a  trimming,  in  the  manufacture  of 
clothing,  also  used  as  a  binding  In 
innumerable  cases,  such  as  paper 
boxes,  etc.,  and  is  sold  by  the  roll,  each 
roll  containing  a  certain  number  of 
yards. 

A  fair  grade  of  tape  weighs  about  20 
j^ards  per  poimd. 

This  fabric  is  woven  in  a  broad  loom 
having  a  light  dobby  head  motion  wt- 
tached,  similar  to  that  which  is  used 
on  a  hair  clotli  loom. 


the  aforesaid  rod  in  sucii  a  position 
that  the  rod  in  moving  causes  the  said 
iitlachment  to  move  th-i  shutde  from 
oiie  box  to  the  other  in  the  same  di- 
•.•cc'ion  as  the  rod  is  taking. 

Tape  requires  as  a  finish,  washing 
and  drying  on  the  cylinder.after  which 
it  is  wound  into  rolls  and  is  ready  to 
pack  and  ship. 

CONSTRUCTION. 
Reed,   1,650    minus   %   inches   width 
in  reed,  59  ends,  46  picks,     i_     point 
twill,  30  ends  minus  29  ends  left. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  counts  of  yarn  used  to  make 
tape  vary  from  20s  to  40s,  according 
to  the  grade  of  tape  required.  In  this 
article  we  will  consider  the  warp  yam 
to  be  1-36 s  and  the  filling  l-40s. 
These  counts  of  yarn  would  be  made 
in  the  second  division  of  m.ills  as 
5riven  in  a  previous  lesson.  For  this 
fabric  the  yarn  would  be  made  out  of 


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Design. 

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Drawing-in  draft. 

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Reed   plan. 


BBGG 
BGGB 
OGBB 


Weave 


In  weaving  this  fabric,  the  loom  is 
arranged  to  produce  several  rolls  at 
the  same  operation,  it  being  very  nar- 
row. There  are  perhaps  20  rolls  all 
weaving  at  once,  as  the  warp  yarn  for 
each  roll  is  beamed  upon  a  small  spool, 
thereby  acting  Independently  of  every 
other  roll  on  the  same  loom.  The 
warps  are  all  drawn  through  the  same 
harness  or  heddles,  which  are  worked 
from  the  dobby  motion. 

The  peiouliar  and  important  part  of 
a  tape  loom  is  the  filling  arrangement 
or  shuttle  motion. 

Being  a  one  shuttle  fabric,  each  warp 
has  its  separa/te  shuttle,  all  the  shut- 
tles being  operated  at  the  same  time, 
and  by  one  motion.  The  shuttle,  in 
traveling  from  one  box  to  its  mate,  de- 
scribes a  half  moon  movemenr,  and 
this  is  accomplished  by  a  sliding  rod 
beneath  the  race  hoard,  and  so  set  that 
at  •each  pick  of  the  loom  the  rod  moves 
from  left  to  right  and  on  the  next 
pick  right  to  left,  and  for  each  piece  of 
tape  being  woven  there  must  neces- 
sarily be  a  shuttle,  and  for  each  shut- 
tle   there  is  an  attachment  placed  on 


a  medium  grade  cotton  of  from  1  to 
11/4  inches  in  length.  The  bales  of 
raw  stock  would  be  brought  to  the  mix- 
ing room  and  stapled  and  those  bales 
of  the  same  length  of  sitaple  would  be 
opened  and  run  through  a  bale  break- 
er (if  the  mill  contained  one,  or 
through  a  willow,  or  it  may  be  mixed 
by  hand)  and  passed  by  suitable  means 
to 

THE  MIXING  BIN. 

It  should  be  allowed  to  stand  here  as 
long  as  possible,  so  that  the  cotton 
may  be  opened  up  to  the  air,  which 
dries  It.  and  makes  it  easier  to  work 
than  when  it  is  not  allowed  to  stand 
in  the  bins.  At  this  point  the  good 
waste  from  the  pickers,  cards  and 
drawing  frames  should  also  be  mixed 
in  with  the  raw  stock.  The  cotton  is 
then  put  through  an  opener  and  either 
two  or  three  processes  of  picking,  gen- 
erally two.  If  three  processes  of  pick- 
ing are  used,  the  intermediate  process 
presents  almost  the  same  particulara 
as  the  finisher  picker.  In  this  in- 
stance,     we   will   consider     that   only 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


85 


TWO  PROCESSES  OF  PICKING 

are  used.  The  hopper  should  be  kept 
as  nearly  full  as  possible,  so  that  an 
even  lap  ma3'  be  made.  The  cotton  is 
fed  to  the  feed  rolls  of  the  breaker 
pickbr  and  after  passing  comes  under 
the  action  of  the  beater  which,  if  it  is 
a  rigid  two-bladed  type,  should  malve 
about  1,450  revolutions  per  minute,  the 
speed  of  the  fan  being  about  1,050  revo- 
lutions per  minute.  The  weight  of  the 
lap  at  the  front  should  be  about  40 
pounds  or  a  12-ounce  lap.  The  doub- 
lings at  the  finisher  picker  are  4  into 
1.  The  speed  of  the  fan  should  be 
about  1,450  revolutions  per  minute, 
and  the  fan  1,100  revolutions  per 
minute.  This  gives  the  cotton  sheet 
about  42  beats  per  inch  fed.  Watch 
your  drafts.  The  weight  of  the  lap  at 
the  front  should  be  about  39  pounds 
or  a  141/2  ounce  lap.  When  roving 
waste  is  mixed  with  the  raw  stock,  it 
should  first  be  put  through 

A  SPECIAL  PROCESS 

to  take  out  the  twist,  and  through  a 
breaker  picker  to  make  laps,  and  these 
laps  are  put  up  behind  the  finisher 
picker.  These  laps  are  mixed  with 
the  raw  stock  in  a  proportion  of  one 
lap  roving  waste  to  three  laps  of  raw 
stock.  The  laps  are  put  up  at  the 
card,  the  draft  of  which  should  not 
be  less  than  100,  In  speaking  of 
cards  we  refer  to  the  so-called  English 
card  and  not  the  American  card.  The 
wire  fillet  of  this  card  should  be  about 
No.  34  wire  on  cylinder  and  No.  o5 
wire  on  doffer  and  flats.  This  is  equiv- 
alent to  110s  and  120s,  English  count, 
and  gives  79,200  points  per  square  inch 
for  cylinder  and  .86,400  points  per 
square  inch  for  doffer  and  top  fiats. 
Grind  the  wire  so  as  to  Ivcep  it  sharp 
and  strip  three  times  a  day. 

TPIE  SLIVER 

at  the  front  of  the  card  should  weigh 
about  65  grains  per  yard  and  a  pro- 
duction of  800  pounds  should  be  turned 
off  for  a  week  of  60  hours. 

Use  as  large  a  doffer  as  possible, 
either  a  26  or  27  inch  one.  The  sliver 
is  put  through  three  processes  of 
drawing  frames,  doubling  six  into 
one,  the  speed  of  the  front  roll  being 
400  revolutions  per  minute,  and  the 
weight  of  sliver  at  the  finisher  drawing 
70  grains  to  the  yard.  Always  keep  a 
stock  of  freshly  varnished  rolls  on 
hand,  so  that  if  those  in  the  frames 
become  worn  or  damaged  in  any  way 
they  may  be  replaced  at  once.  All 
the  rolls  should  be  varnished  and 
changed  at  least  once  every  two  weeks. 


Drawing  frames  should  be  cleaned  at 
least  once  a  month.    The 
SETTINGS      OF      THE        DRAWING 

FRAME  ROLLS 
should  be  looked  after  frequently  to 
see  that  they  have  not  slipped.  The 
sliver  is  then  passed  to  the  slubber 
which  draws  and  twists  it  into  .50 
hank  roving.  Watch  your  leather  cov- 
ered rolls  to  see  that  they  are  perfect. 
The  roving  is  then  put  through  three 
processes  of  fly  frames,  the  hank  rov- 
ing at  the  first  intermediate  being  1.50 
and  at  the  second  3.50  hank  and  at  the 
jack,  9.  to  9.50  for  both  counts  of  yarn, 
the  doublings  being  two  into  one  in 
every  case.  Use  the  standard  multipli- 
er for  twist  previously  given.  The 
roving  is  Ui'en  taken  to  the  spinning 
room  and  made  into  the  required 
count.  The  particulars  for  a  warp 
yarn  of  36s  count  are  as  follows:  Gauge 
of  frame,  2%  inches;  diameter  of  ring, 
1%  inches;  length  of  traverse,  6V^ 
inches;  speed  of  spindle,  10,200  revolu- 
tions per  minute. 


MERCERIZED  VESTING, 


Mercerized  vesting  is  either  a  light 
or  heavy  weight  cotton  wash  fabric 
weighing  from  5  to  8  ounces  per  j'ard, 
finished,  and  is  made  of  one,  two  or 
three  warps  and  one  or  two  fillings. 
When  made  of  one  warp  and  filling,  a 
light  weight  can  be  produced  in  case 
the  warp  and  filling  are  both  mercer- 
ized yarns. 

The  warp  for  the  face  of  the  cloth 
ranges  from  2-20s  to  2-60s  mercerized 
cotton,  and  the  filling  from  1-lOs  to 
l-16s  cotton. 

The  styles  range  from  granite  and 
basket  weave  effects  in  solid  white,  to 
the  more  elaborate  figured  patterns, 
such  as  are  created  by  forming  spots 
on  the  face  of  the  cloth,  from  warp  ef- 
fect diamond,  cross  and  curved  twill 
weaves,  so  arranged  as  to  scatter  the 
design  in  regular  formation,  in  imita- 
tion of  jacquard  designs. 

ADDING  WEIGHT. 

The  extra  back  warp  is  for  the  pur- 
pose of  adding  weight  to  the  fabric, 
also  permitting  greater  scope  in  face 
V  eave  effects,  the  idea  being  to  so  ar- 
range the  face  weave  as  to  thoroughly 
cover  the  coarse  filling,  the  back  warp 
binding  the  filling  into  the  cloth,  un- 
der the  figure  floats  of  the  face  weave. 

In  making  a  vesting  having  a  back 
warp,  always  use  a  two-ply  yarn  for 
this  warp,  as  a  single  yarn  will  bead 


86 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


in  the  weaving",  which  means  a  loss  of 
time  every  few  hours  in  removing 
same,  and  the  varp  will  not  shed  prop- 
eo-ly   when   the  yarn   is  beaded,  which 


on  the  cloth.  The  beads  may  then  be 
either  cnt  off,  or  drawn  through  tha 
reed.  If  the  latter  method  is  used,  the 
beads  form  a  line  of  small  lumps  upon 


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Harness  Chain. 


causes  the  reed  to  cat  -"ihe  yarn.  The 
quickest  way  to  remove  the  beads  from 
the  yarn  in  the  shed  is  to  loosen  the 
top  of  the  reed  cap,  and  lay  the  reed  up- 


the  face  of  the  cloth,  from  one  selvedge 
to  the  other.  While  this  in  itself  is 
not  a  serious  imperfection,  it  means 
that  the  cloth  must  be  cut  at  this  point 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


n 


to  remove  the  lumps,  which  to  a  cv:- 
tain  extent  destroys  the  utility  of  the 
piece  in  manufacturing  the  garments. 

EITHER  A   DOBBY   OR   JACQUARD. 

This  fabric  can  be  woven  on  either 
the  dobby  or  jacquard  loom.  Most  of 
the  popular  imported  jacquard  effects 
oan  be  imitated  successfully  on  the 
dobby  loom,  having  either  single  or 
double  box  filling  motion.  It  is  best 
adapted  to  the  Knowles  Gem  Harness 
loom,  or  the  Pairmount,  4x1,  bos 
loom,  having  the  Ingraham  head  mo- 
tion attached. 

To  finish  this  fabric,  the  cloth  goes 
from  the  loom  to  the  measuring  ma- 
chine, after  which  it  is  scoured,  dur- 
ing which  operation  the  goods  are  run 
through  a  solution  of  soap  and  cold 
water  to  remove  all  stains  such  as  mill 
dirt  and  grease  spots.  After  washing 
it  is  calendered  or  pressed,  and  each 
piece  is  folded  and  doubled  up  in  heavy 
paper  and  tied  with  a  cheap  tape.  It 
is  then  ready  to  pack  and  ship. 

A  style  having  great  vogue  in  the 
spring  of  1904  was  a  mixed  effect,  pro- 
duced by  using  an  all  white  mercerized 
warp,  and  black  mercerized  filling,  the 
ground  weave  being  1  up,  1  down  and 
the  figure,  small,  double-headed  tri- 
angles. 

Reed,  700  minus  30  inches  in  reed  4 
ends  per  dent  in  reed;  2-20s  white  mer- 
cerized warp,  2-20s  black  mercerized 
filling;  48  picks.  Weight  about  71/2 
■ounces. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

62  ends  face  finished,  31  ends  back 
finished,  equals  93. 

1  square  inch  equals  3  grains;  60 
picks  finished;  29x36  equals  1,044x3 
equals  3,132  divided  by  1  equals  3,132 
divided  by  437.5  equals  7.16  ounces  per 
yard. 

^   face  ends,  back  ends. 
30  inches  in  reed  including  selvedge; 
29  inches  finished.  Scour  and  calender. 

16  pieces  mercerized  face  yarn  times 
3  inches  equals  48x7,000  equals  3;:J6,000 
divided  by  .95  grains  equals  353,684 
divided  by  36  equals  9,824.5  divided  by 
840  equals  11.69  or  2-20s  mercerize  J 
yam. 

8  pieces  back  yarn  times  2  equals  16 
x7,000  equals  112,000  diviJed  by  .18 
equals  62,444  divided  by  36  equals  17,- 
345.5  divided  by  840  equals  20.64  or 
2-40s  back  warp  yarn. 

17  pieces  filling  yarn  times  2  equals 
34x7.000  equals  238,000  divided  by  .7 
-equals  340,000  divided  by  36  equals  9,- 
444  divided  by  840  equals  11.24  or  l-12s 
filling  yarn. 

3    pieces    fancy    color    (spot)      yarn 


ti-es  3  equals  9x7,000  equals  63,000 
divi  I'^d  by  .1  equals  630,000  divided  by 
36  equals  17,500  divided  by  840  equals 


"*-WH='=="^-±- 

tet±B— ±i-  ----- 

^M\ 

i|i 

IH 

-   1  B    ^       J— i—    ~-A-              -4- 

^-li||^i|iH4^ 

Reed    i^lan.         Dra wing-in   Draft. 

20.8  or  2-40s  extra  warp  (for  figruring) 
yarn. 

30  inches  in  reed,  30  dents  per  inch 
in  reed,  900  minus  10  splits  equals  890 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


splits,  40  ends  2-40s  cotton  selvedge,  7G 
ends  in  repeat  of  pattern  equals  2J 
repeats  plus  32  ends. 

1,780  ends  2-20s  mercerized  face  ends, 
890  ends  2-40s  cotton  back  ends,  40 
ends  2-40s  ootton  selvedge  ends,  Di 
ends  2-40s  cotton  colored  ends,  equals 
900  splits  or  30  inches  in  reed. 

3  1-3  per  cent  contraction  in  widtli 
in  w^eaving,  5  per  cent  take-up,  6  2-3 
per  cent  shrinkage  in  length  in  finish- 
ing. 

1,780  ends  plus  5  per  cent  take-up 
equals  1,873.7  yards,  2.20s  mercerized 
equals  3.568  ounces,  890  ends  plus  5  per 
cent  take-up  equals  936.8  yards  2-40s 
cotton  equals  .892  ounces,  94  ends 
equals  94  yards  2-40s  cotton 
equals  .009  cmnoes,  40  ends  plus 
5  per  cent  take-up  equals  421 
yards  2-40s  cotton  equals  .04 
ounces,  50  ends  l-12iS  fiLMnig  times  30 
inches  equals  1,680  yards  l-12s  cotton 
equals  2.666  ounces;  total,  7.175  ounces 
finished. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  counts  of  yarn  required  to 
miaoufaciture  fihe  fabric  umder  desicrip- 
tion  would  he  made  in  the  thiird  or 
possibly  in  the  second  diivision  of 
miills,  as  gi^ven  in  a  previous  lesson. 
It  will  be  uniderstood  that  a  great 
miany  grades  of  fancy  vestings  are 
made  amd  that  the  ranige  of  the 
counts  of  the  yarns  is  also  varied. 
For  this  artHcle  we  will  consider  thait 
the  warp  yam  counit  is  2-60s  and  thiat 
thie  filling  yarn  is  16s  count.  The 
grade  of  ootton  used  for  the  finer 
oooinlt  should  be  gooid  amd  the  length 
of  the  staple  about  1^/^  inches,  al- 
though cottion  from  1%  to  1%  inches 
may  ibe  usiedi.  For  the  coarser  yarn  a 
cotton  with  the  staple  of  1  inch  may 
be  used.  The  two  different  cottons 
■wiO'uM  be 

TREATED   ALIKE 

up  to  a  certain  point  amd  unless  other- 
wiLse  noted  what  is  said  may  be  ap- 
plied tio  both  coittons.  The'  cotton 
raw  stock  sihouM  be  first  brought  to 
the  bale  breaker  and  there  stapled 
and  graded  by  the  overseer  and  all 
bales  not  up  to  the  proper  standard 
laid  aside.  Several  bales  should  be 
opened  and  placed  around  the  bale 
breaker  and  fed  tO'  this  machine  alter- 
itaitely;  that  is,  first  a  section  from  one 
bale  and  then  a  section  from  another, 
until  all  the  cotton  is  fed,  amd  not 
one  bale  fed  imitil  it  is  all  gone.  By 
the  first  method  a  more  even  mixing 
is  obtained.  Two  processies  of  picking 
aaid  an  opemer  are  generally  used,  and 


after  allowiing  the  co.lton  to  stand  in 
the  ibins  as  long  as  possiiMe,  where 
the  good  sliver  waste  from  the  cards, 
sliver  lap  and  ribbon  lap  machines, 
combs,  drawing  frames  and  slubber  is 

MIXED  WITH  THE  RAW  STOCK, 

the  cotton  is  fed  to  the  hopper  of  the 
opener.  This  machine  is  really  the 
first  machine  that  evens  the  cotton 
so  tbat  a  certain  weight  of  ootton  will 
be  dielivered  for  a  certain  length. 
In  order  to  accomiplish  this  the  hop- 
per should  be  kept  as  nearly  full  as 
pOiSsible  so  that  the  lifting  apron  will 
always  be  loaded.  The  speed  of  the 
berate r  of  this  machine  is  about  1,050 
revolutions  per  minute,  having  a  fan 
speed  of  350  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  cotlton  is  delivered  from  this  mar 
chine  to  the  feed  rolls  of  the  breaker 
picker.  The  speed  of  a  rigid  two- 
bladed  type  of  beater  should  be  about 
1,500  revoilutionis  per  minute,  the  fan 
S'peedi  being  1,400  revolutions  pel 
minute.     The 

WEIGHT  OF  THE  LAP 

delivered  at  the  front  should  be  about 
40  pounds  or  a  16-ounce  lap  for  the 
finer  counts  and  20  ounces  for  the 
coarser  counts.  The  laps  are  then  put 
up  at  the  finisher  picker  and  doubled 
four  into  one.  It  is  a/t  this  point  that 
the  cut  roving  waste  is^  mixed  in,  this 
waste  having  gone  through  a  special 
process  to  take  out  the  tiwist.  Mix 
one  lap  of  cut  waste  to  three  of  raw 
stock  laps.  The  speed  of  the  beater 
for  this  clasis  of  goods  should  mot  ex- 
ceed 1,450  revolutions  per  minute  with 
a  fan  speed  of  about  1,100  revolutions 
per  minute.  This  class  of  goods  should 
not  receive  more  than  42  beats  per 
inich,  and  for  the  longer  staple  cotton 
the  beats  per  inch  shiould  be  dropped 
to  32  to  3G.  If  the  cotton  receives  too 
many  beats  it  is  apt  to  put  neps  in  and 
if  not  beaten  enough,  tihe  dirt  will  not 
be  taken  out.     The 

STANDARD  WEIGHT 
of  the  finer  yam  lap  should  be  about 
35  pounds,  or  about  12  ounces  per  yard. 
The  coarser  yarn  lap  should  weigh  39- 
pounds,  or  about  14  ounces  per  yard. 
The  variation  from  the  standard 
weigthit  of  laps  should  not  be  more  than 
one-half  pound  either  way  and  laps 
which  vary  more  than  this  should  be 
run  over.  The  laps  are  put  up  at  tbe 
card  and  the  draft  for  the  fijner  count 
sbouild  not  be  less  than  100  amid  the 
coarsier  one  not  over  100.  Close  set- 
tings should  be  used  for  the  60is  yarn 
and  some  overseers  speed  up  the  top 
flats  so  that  a  greater  amoumt  of  waste 
will  be  taken  out.     The     same     wire 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


S9 


may  be  used  for  both  counts,  i.  e.,  34s 
(American  aumlbei")  foir  cyl'iuider  anid 
35  or  36s  for  tiop  flats  anid  doffer.  Use 
as  large  a  doffer  as  possiible.  In  the 
longer  staples  some  o'verseeirs  slow 
down  the 

SPEED  OF  THE  LICKElR-IN. 

Thiey  say  that  the  sipeed  of  this  part 
iis  too  fast:  for  long  staples  'and  it  tends 
to  put  neps  into  the  cotton.  The 
weight  of  the  sliver  for  the  60.s  yarn 
should  be  about  50  grains,  and  for  the 
169  about  65  graJims  per  yard.  The 
production  for  the  finer  yam  is  500 
pounds  peir  week  of  60  hours,  and  for 
the  coarser  yarn  65  grains  per  yard. 
Strip  cards  three  times  a  day,  ajl- 
tlhough  some  oveTseeirs  strip  the  dof- 
fer four  times.  The  isliver  for  the 
finer  yarn  is  co^mibe'd  asad  the  eoarser 
yarn  goes  direct  to  the  drawimg  frame. 
We  will  first  follow  the 

COURSE  OF  THE  COTTON 

for  the  60s  yarn.  It  is  first  put 
through  the  sliver  lap  'machine,  the 
doublings  being  14  into  1,  the  weight 
of  tihe  lap  being  300  grains  per  yard. 
Six  O'f  these  laps  are  put  up  at  the 
ribbon  lap  machine,  the  weigtht  of 
lap  at  front  being  260  graims  iper  yard. 
The  laps  are  then  put  up  at  the  coimber, 
the  douiblinigs  being  genierally  siix  imto 
one,  althousfh  eight  intO'  one  is  some- 
times used.  The  speed  of  tilie  comber 
should  be  about  90  nips  per  minute, 
draft  29,  percentage  of  iwasite  taken 
out  18,  and  the  weight  of  the  sliver 
•about  45  grains  per  yard.  This  sliver 
is  then  put  throaig^i  two  pro'cesses  of 
drawing,  the  doublings  being  6  into 
1.  The  weight  of  the  sliver  at  the 
finisher  drawing  frames  is  70  grains 
per  yard.  See  that  your  drawing 
frames  are  well  oiled,  the  top  rolls  be- 
ing oiled  twice  a  day,  but  also  see 
that  no  oil  gets  on  the  leather.  See 
that  all  weights  are  properly  adjusted 
and  tne  trumpet  holes  the  right  size, 
also  tuat  the  stop  motions  are  all  ad- 
justed properly.  The  sliver  is  then 
passed  to  the  slubber,  where  it  is 
drawn  into  .50  hank  roving.  It  then 
passes  through 

THREE  PROCESSES  OF  FLY 
FRAME, 

the  hank  roving  at  the  first  inter- 
mediate being  1.50,  and  the  second 
4.00  hank,  and  at  the  jack  frame  13 
hank.  The  sliver  for  16s  is  put 
through  three  processes  of  drawing, 
the  weight  of  sliver  at  the  finisher 
drawing  being  70  grains  per  yard,  the 
hank  roving  at  the  slubber  .50.  This 
roving     is     only     put     through     two 


processes  of  fly  frames,  the  hank  rov- 
ing being  made  at  the  first  about  1.50, 
at  the  second  4.00  hank.  The  doub- 
lings in  all  cases  are  2  into  1.  Tne 
roving  is  passed  to  the 

RING  SPINNING   ROOM, 

when  it  is  made  into  60s  count. 
The  following  particulars  would  be 
used  for  a  frame  spinning  this  count: 
Gauge  of  spindles,  2%  inches; 
diameter  of  ring,  1  5-16  inches;  length 
of  traverse,  5  inches;  revolutions  per 
minute  of  spindles,  10,000;  twist  per 
inch,  34.68.  For  filling,  either  mule  or 
ring  frames  may  be  used.  If  ring 
frames  are  used,  use  the  follow  par- 
ticulars: Gauge  of  spindle,  2%  inches; 
diameter  of  ring,  IH  inches,  length 
of  traverse,  6^^  inches.  The  warp  yarn 
is  then  twisted  into  2-ply  00s  at  the 
twister,  then  spooled  and  then  put 
into  the  warper,  where  it  is  warped  on 
beams,  and  from  here  is  passed  to  the 
slasher. 


Dyeing      Particulars     for     Mercerized 
Vesting. 

Following  are  the  dyeing  particulars      iW 
for   mercerized  vesting:  *■ 

Dyed  mercerized  yarn  for  spots. 

RED. 

Turkey  red,  or  primuline  red,  primu- 
line  red  dyeing. 

6  per  cent  primuline  red,  30  per  cent 
Glauber's;  diazotized  11/2  pounds  ni- 
traJte  soda,  5  pounds  sulphuric  acid  de- 
veloped,two  pounds  Beta  naphthol.well 
rinsed  and  soaped  twice  and  rinsed  in 
hot  water. 

SKY    BLUE. 

5  per  cent  immedial  sky  blue.  5  per 
cent  sodium  sulphide.  3  per  cent  soda 
ash,  30  per  cent  Glauber's,  rinse  well, 
and  g'ive  a  soap  bath,  rinse    well    and 

dry. 

N.WY  BLUE. 

S  per  cent  immedial  dark  blue  B,  8 
per  cent  sulphide  soda,  3  per  cent  soda 
ash,  30  per  cent  Glauber's,  rinse  well, 
soap,  and  rinse  in  hot  water,  and  dry. 

BROWN. 

10  per  cent  thion  brown  G,  10  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium,  3  per  cent  soda 
ash,  30  per  cent  Glauber's,  rinse  and 
soap  as  above  blue. 

DARK  GREEN. 

10  per  cent  katigen  r^ark  green  2B,  2 
per  cent  katigen  blue  Black  B,  2  per 
cent  katigen  yellow  GG,  14  per  cent 
sodium   sulphide,     30   per  cent     Glau- 


90 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


ber's,  3  per  cent  soda  ash,  rinse  and 
soap  as  above. 

OLIVE. 

8  per' cent  pyrogene  olive  G,  8  per 
cent  sodium  sulphide,  3  per  cent  soda 
ash,  30  per  cent  Glauber's,  rinse  and 
soap  as  above. 

MAROON. 

10  per  cent  immedial  Bordeaux  G,  10 
per  cent  sodium  sulphide,  28  per  cent 
Glauber's,  3  per  cent  soda  ash,  rinse 
and  soap  as  abOA'e. 

BLACK. 

15  per  cent  immedial  black  NN,  15 
I>er  cent  sodium  sulphide,  30  per  cent 
Glauber's,  3  per  cent  soda  ash,  rinse 
and  soap  as  above. 


JEAN. 


.lean  is  a  narrow,  hard-faced  cotton 
fabric,  weighing  from  4  to  4^/^  ounces 
per  yard,  and  is  usually  made  of  a 
hard-twiisted  warp  yarn,  about  l-20s 
cotton,  and  either    a  wool    or  a  wool 


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Reed  Plan 


shoddy  filling.  The  fabric  is  made 
with  a  small,  uneven-sided  tv/ill 
w^eave,  warp  effect  face,  viz.:  — j  45^ 
twill,  the  cloth  being  of  a  slate  black 
color. 

Jean  is  used  principally  in  the  man- 
ufacture of  ready-to-wear  trousers,  re- 
tailing at  85  cents  to  $1  per  pair,  for 
workmen  who  perform  hard,  rough 
and  dirty  work,  and  who  do  not  wear 
overalls..  For  this  purpose  it  is  tho 
most  serrvioeable  fabric  on  the  market, 
the  garment  when  worn  beiing  popix- 
larly  known  as  Kentucky  .lean,  which 
has  this  distinct  advantage,  that  upon 
Its  becoming  soiled,  a  good  washing 
will  reariily  cleanse  and  remove  all 
dirty  marks,  and  apparently  toughen 
the  cloth,  although  causing  it  to 
shrink  somewhat. 

"KENTUCKY  JEANS" 

are  worn  by  laborers,  railroaders, 
moulders,  machinists,  loom  fixers, 
general  male  mill  help,  etc.,  and  with 


a  small  amount  of  care  will  wear  well 
for  two  or  three  years. 

Jean  is  made  with  one  warp  and  one 
filling,  and  can  be  woven  in  any  single 
box,  roller  loom,  good  results  being 
obtained  from  the  Fairmount  or 
Bridesburg. 

The  warp  yarn  is  generally  of  a 
cheap  grade  of  cotton,  and  receives 
about  two  extra  turns  of  twist  per 
inch,  in  excess  of  the  required  amount 
of  twist  in  the  regular  yarn  of  a  sim- 
ilar count.  It  is  this  fact  which  caus- 
es jean  as  a  fabric  to  have  such  a  hard 
feel. 

The  filling  is  usually  a  mixture,  con- 
taining about  40  per  cent  cotton  and 
60  per  cent  wool  shoddy,  the  yarn  be- 
ing spun  on  the  woolen  principle. 

The  wool  shoddy  is  made  by  picker- 
ing  and  carding  darlv  colored  woolen 
rags,  after  which  the  cotton  and  shod- 
dy are  made  into  a  mixing  of  relative 
proportions  and  the  lot  run  through 
the  mixing  picker.  The  stock  is  then 
carded  and  spun,  the  yarn  receiving 
suflicient  filling  twist,  the  result  being 
a  dark  colored,  lofty  thread,  a  suitable 
filling  for  this  fabric  jean. 

The  warp  is  dyed  a  rather  grayish 
black,  with  cheap  dry  color,  and  the 
warp  and  filling  colors  combined  in 
the  weaving  produce  a  fabric  of  a  de- 
cidedly slate  black  appearance. 

Jean  receives  a  dry  finish,  being 
brushed,  sheared  and  pressed,  after 
which  it  is  rolled  or  lapped,  then 
packed  into  cases,  for  shipment. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

Reed  800 — ZQV^  inches  plus  2  ends  per 
dent,  10  per  cent  take-up  in  weaving, 
36  picks  l-20s  cut  wool  shoddy,  l-20s 
cotton  warp. 

Finish  equals  27  inches. 

44.4x301/^  equals  1,354  ends  plus  10 
per  cent  equals  1,480  yards  l-20s  cotton 
warp  equals  1.41  ounces.  Warp,  36 
picks  times  30i/^  equals  1,098  yards, 
1-20S  cut  wool  shoddy  equals  2.92 
ounces  filling. 

1.41  ounces  warp,  2.92  ounces  filling, 
equals  4.33  ounces. 

4.33  ounces  weight,  27  inches  wide. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  yarn  used  for  this  class  of  goods 
is  constinicted  by  two  entirely  different 
systems.  The  filling  is  generally  com- 
posed of  a  mixture  of  wool  or  wool 
shoddy  and  cotton.  The  filling  yarn  is 
therefore  made  in  a  woolen  mill.  It  is 
understood  that  entirely  different  ma- 
chines are  used,  and  the  method  of 
mixing  is  entirely  difTerent  from  that 
used  in  a  cotton    mill,    although    the 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


91 


names  of  the  machines  in  many  in- 
stances are  alike.  The  warp  yarn  is 
made  of  all  cotton  stock  and  is  there- 
fore spun  into  yarn  in  a  cotton  mill, 
and  below  will  befound  the  carding  and 
spinning  particulars  for  making  this 
count  of  yarn  of  jean  fabric.  Of 
course,  these  may  and  are  deviated 
from  in  many  mills,  but  not  to  any 
great  extent. 

THE  RAW  STOCK 

generally  used  is  of  a  low  grade  and 
about  one  inch  in  staple.  This  class 
of  yarn  is  spun  in  mills  of  the  first  di- 
vision as  given  in  a  previous  lesson 
and  the  mixing  would  be  done  by  hand. 
The  bales  of  cotton  would  be  sampled 
and  all  those  of  the  same  length  would 
be  put  into  the  mixing  bin.  For  this 
class  of  goods  a  small  percentage  of 
comber  waste  is  sometimes  mixed  with 
the  raw  stock  and  some  mills  use  the 
card  waste.  The  percentage  is  gener- 
ally small,  however.  The  good  waste 
from  the  pickers,  cards  and  drawing 
frames  is  always  used  and  mixed 
at  this  point.  The  raw  stock  is  run 
through  an  opener  and  two  processes 
of  picking. 

The  hopper  should  always  be  kept 
full.  The  speed  of  the  beater  should 
be  1,050  revolutions  per  minute,  and 
the  fan  350  revolutions  per  minute.  The 
speed  of  the  breaker  picker  beater  is 
about  1,500  revolutions  per  minute,  the 
fan  speed  being  1,400  revolutions  per 
minute. 

THE  WEIGHT  OF  LAP 

at  the  front  of  this  machine  is  about 
40  pounds  or  16  ounces  to  the  yard. 
The  doubling  at  the  finisher  picker  is 
four  into  one  and  the  speed  of  the 
beater  (two-bladed  rigid  type)  1,450 
revolutions  per  minute,  which  gives 
the  cotton  passing  through  it  about  42 
heats  per  inch.  The  speed  of  the  fan 
is  about  1,100  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  weight  of  the  total  lap  is  about  30 
pounds,  or  14%  ounces  to  the  yard. 
■Clean  out  from  under  the  pickers  fre- 
quently so  that  the  fly  will  not  collect 
and  be  drawn  back  into  the  good 
clean  cotton  passing  through. 

The  draft  of  this  picker  shoiild  be 
about  2.75.  The  laps  are  then  put  up 
at 

THE  CARD. 

This  machine  should  not  have  a 
draft  of  more  than  100.  The  doffer 
should  be  as  large  as  possible  and  the 
wire  fillet  used  should  be  No.  33  wire 
(American  count)  for  cylinder  and  No. 
34  for  doffer  and  flats.  The  flats 
make  one  revolution  about    every     45 


minutes.  The  cards  should  be  stripped 
three  times  a  day  and  ground  once  a 
month.  The  weight  of  the  sliver 
should  be  65  grains  to  the  yard,  and 
the  production  for  a  week  of  60  hours 
should  be  between  950  and  1,000 
pounds.  This  sliver  is  then  run 
througla 

TV/0  PROCESSES  OF  DRAWING 
FRAMES. 

The  settings  used  at  one  mill  for  this 
stock  and  staple  are  as  follows:  Front 
roll  to  second,  114.  second  tothird,  1%,, 
and  third  to  back,  l^^  inches.  The 
doublings  at  this  machine  are  six  into 
one  and  the  speed  of  the  front  roller 
400  revolutions  per  minute.  The  draft 
at  the  finisher  machine  is  about  5.75. 
The  weight  of  the  sliver  should  be 
about  75  grains  per  yard.  The  draw- 
ing sliver  should  be  sized  at  least 
twice  a  day  and  four  times  would  be 
much  better. 

The  sliver  is  then  drawn  into  .50 
hank  roving  by  the  slubber  and  three 
processes  of  fly  frames,  the  hank 
roving  being  as  follows:  1.50  at  the 
first  intermediate,  3.50  at  the  second, 
and  8.00  at  the  jack  frame.  The  usual 
care  should  be  given  to  the  rolls,  etc., 
and 

THE  ROVING 

at  the  jack  frame  should  be  sized  once 
a  day.  The  roving  is  then  put  through 
a  warp  spinning  frame,  the  particulars 
being  as  follows:  Gauge  of  frame,  2% 
inches;  diameter  of  rings,  two  inches, 
length  of  traverse,  seven  inches.  This 
yarn  is  hard  twisted  and  receives  about 
two  complete  turns  more  per  inch  than 
usually  used  for  cloth  yarn;  that  is, 
the  regular  twist  per  inch  for  this 
count  is  21.24  turns  per  inch,  but  for 
this  cloth  is  23.24.  The  speed  of  the 
spindle  is  about  9,400  revolutions  per 
minute.  This  yarn  is  taken  to  the 
spoolers  and  spooled  from  the  spools, 
is  warped  and  put  through  the  slasher. 
A  good  sizing  is  made  as  follows: 
Water,  100  gallons;  potato  starch,  70 
pounds;  tallow,  four  pounds;  turpen- 
tine, one  pint. 


Dyeing   Particulars. 

DARK  SLATE. 

2r^  pounds  thion  black  G,  2^^  pounds 
sulphide  sodium,  one  pound  soda  ash, 
20  pounds  salt. 

BLACK. 

15  pounds  thion  black  G,  15  pounds 
sulphide  sodium,  three  pounds  soda 
ash,  30  pounds  salt. 


92 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


CRETONNE. 


Cretonne  is  a  light-weight  single 
cloth,  all  catton  fabric,  weighing  from 
2  to  5  ounces  per  yard,  and  composed 
of  j'arns  ranging  from  l-40s  to  l-20s  in 
the  warp  and  l-20s  to  l-7s  in  the  fill- 
ing. 

It  is  usually  woven  with  either  the 

plain  weave  — r,  — -■  twill  45  de- 
gree, or  a  fancy  effect  resembling  a 
granite  weave,  such  as  is  used  as  a 
foundation  weave  in  dress  goods.  The 
fabric  is  woven  with  either  an  all 
bleached  or  graj'  cotton  warp  and  fill- 
ing, the  patterns  being  fancy  stripes 
and  all  over  floral  effects  printed  in 
bright  colors  upon  one  side  of  the 
goods. 

This  gives  the  printed  or  face  side 
of  the  fabric  somewhat  of  the  appear- 
ance of  an  elaborately  figured  jac- 
quard  design.  Those  colors  found  most 
effective   for   this    purpose   are   bright 


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chain   same  as  design. 


and  medium  shades  of  red,  blue,  green, 
yellow,  etc.,  and  a  good  jet  black. 

Cretonne  is  made  in  widths  from  25 
inches  to  .3fi  inches,  the  narrow  grades 
being  the  lightest  in  weight. 

The  various  grades  are  used  for 
couch  covers,  draperies,  lambrequins, 
and  comfortables  or  bed  quilts. 

THE  WEAVING. 

Being  a  one-shuttle  fabric,  plain 
weave  or  twilled,  cretonne  can  be  wov- 
en on  the  single  box  roller  loom  such 
as  the  Mason,  Draper,  Lowell,  Col- 
vin,  Lewiston,  or  Kilburn  and  Lincoln. 
The  fancy  grades  in  which  mixed 
weaves  are  desired,  necessitate  the 
use  of  the  Knowles  Fairmount,  or 
similar  looms,  with  a  dobby  or  head 
motion  attached.  The  warp  for 
creitonne,  being  either  gray  or  bleached 
yam,  is  prepared  in  a  manner  similar 
to  that  of  weaving  a  plain  ordinary 
sheeting. 

Those  grades  in  which  the  plain 
weave  or  '—-^  twill  weave  are  used 
are   drawn    in    and   woven   upon    four 


harnesses.  If,  however,  a  fancy  weave 
is  desired,  the  warp  must  be  drawn  in 
and  woven  upon  a  number  of  har- 
nesses, in  accordance  with  the  number 
of  ends  in  one  repeat  of  weave  desired. 
As  printing  the  colored  pattern  upon 
this  fabric  constitutes  the  finish  there- 
of, the  goods  are  taken  from  the  loom 
and  run  through  the  brushing  ma- 
chine, to  remove  all  dust,  dirt  or 
loose  ends. 

THE  FIGURED  PATTERN 

to  be  produced  upon  the  cloth  has 
been  engraved  ui)on  bronze  rollers, 
which  have  been  set  up  in  the  printing 
machine.  The  colors  are  fed  auto- 
matically to  the  rollers,  which,  in  re- 
volving, register  the  colors  upon  the 
face  of  the  cloth,  as  it  passes  between 
them.  The  cloth  is  then  dried  by  be- 
ing run  through  heated  rollers  or 
drums,  and  the  fabric  is  then  rea  ly 
to  be  folded  into  suitable  lengths  to 
be  packed  and  shipped. 

Four  square  inches  equals  7.95 
grains. 

29X.36  equals  1,044x7.95  equals  8.2rt9.- 
80  divided  by  4  equals  2,074.95  divided 
by  437.5  equals  4.742  ounces  per  yard, 
29  inches  wide. 

20  pieces  white  warp  yarn  equals 
x2i,'2  inches  equals  50  inches  equals  .55 
grains,  50x7,000  equals  350,000  diviled 
by  .55  equals  036,363  divided  by  36 
equals  17,399  divided  by  840  equals 
l-20s  cotton  warp  yarn. 

12  pieces  white  filling  yarn  times  4 
inches  equals  48  inches  equals  1.55 
grains. 
48x7,000  equals  336,000  divided  by  1.55 
equals  216,774  divided  by  36  equals 
6,021.5  divided  by  840  equals  l-7s  cot- 
ton filling  yarn. 

15  cents  per  yard,  29  inches  finished. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

Reed,  900  minus  30  1-3  inches  minus 
2  ends  per  dent,  52  ends  per  inch  fin- 
ished,40  picks  per  inch  finished,  equals 
50  ends  in  reed,  38  picks  in  loom,  10 
per  cent  take-up  in  weaving. 

52x29  equals  1,508  plus  10  per  cent 
equals  1,675  yards  l-20s  cotton  warp 
yarn,  40x29  equals  1,160  yards  l-7s  cot- 
ton filling  yarn,  1,675  j^ards,  l-20s  cot- 
ton warp  equals  1,595  ounces,  1,160 
yards  l-7s  cotton  filling  equals  3.156 
ounces  equals  4,751  ounces. 

10  cents  per  yard,  25%  inches  quality 

- — -      twill,  four  square  inches  equals 

3.9  grains. 

251^x36  equals  909x3.9  equals  3545.1 
divided  by  4  equals  886.2  divided  by 
437.5  equal?  2.ri25  ounces  per  j^ard,  25^4 
inches  wide. 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


93 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  division  of  mills  making  cre- 
tonnes would  be  the  second  (or  those 
mills  equipped  with  machinery  for 
making  yarns  the  counts  of  which 
vary  from  20  to  SOs).  The  counts  of 
yarn  used  for  cretonne  vary  from 
l-20s  to  1-40S  warp  and  from  l-7s  to 
l-20s  filling,  according  to  the  quality 
of  cretonne  required.  In  speaking  of 
the  second  division  of  mills  we  do  not 
mean  to  say  that  the  count  of  yarn  is 
always  Avithin  these  limits,  but  that 
when  buying  machinery,  the  specifica- 
tions for  the  different  machines  are 
made  out  according  to  whether  the 
machines  are  to  use  low,  medium  or  a 
fine  grade  of  raw  stock.  Of  course,  it 
often  happens  that  yarns  of  a  lower 
count  or  of  a  higher  count  are  made 
on  this  machinery,  but  the  great  bulk 
of  the  yarns  turned  off  are  within  the 
limits.  For  example,  take  cretonne: 
All  grades  of  cretonne  may  be  made 
in  the  same  mill,  although  the  count 
of  the  yarn  varies  from  7s  to  40s..or  in 
some  cases  even  a  finer  yarn  than  this 
is  used.  For  this  article  we  will  con- 
sider that  the  filling  yarn  is  l-20s  and 
the  warp  yarn  is  l-40s.  The  length  of 
staple  used  would  be  from  1  1-16  to  I14 
inches  of  a  medium  grade  of  cotton. 
The  bales  of  raw  stock  would  first  be 
sampled  and  several  bales  of  practical- 
ly the  same  length  of  staple  placed 
around  the  bale  breaker  and  fed  to  this 
machine  in  small  portions  alternately 
from  each  bale.  In  this  manner  it  is 
mixed  better  than  if  one  entire  bale 
was  fed. 

If  a  bale  breaker  is  not  used  the 
method  would  be  just  the  same  except 
thait  it  would  be  done  by  hand.  The 
lower  count  would  use  cotton  of  a 
length  of  1  1-lfl  inches  and  the  higher 
count  1^,4  inches.  Both  cottons  would 
be  put  through  an  opener  and  two 
processes  of  picking.  Keep  your 
hopper  of  the  opener  well  filled  (over 
half  full).  The  speed  of  the  beater 
for  both  grades  of  cotton  should  be 
about  1,050  revolutions  per  minute; 
the  speed  of  the  fan  about  350  revolu- 
tions per  minute.  See  that  your  pin 
roller  is  always  clean,  because  if  the 
cotton  is  allowed  to  accumulate,  it 
cannot  perform  its  duty  properly.  The 
cotton  is  fed  to  the  feed  rolls  of  the 
breaker  beater  and  passed  on  to  the 
beater,  the  speed  of  which  should  be 
about  1,050  revolutions  per  minute; 
a  rigid  two-bladed  type.  The  total 
weight  of  the  lap  at  the  front  should 
be  about  40  pounds,  or  16  ounces  to  the 
yard  for  both  cottons.  The  laps  are 
doubled  at  the  finisher  picker  four  in- 


to one,  the  cut  roving  being  mixed  in 
at  this  point  in  the  proportion  of  three 
laps  of  raw  stock  to  one  of  bobbin 
waste.  The  speed  of  the  beater  should 
be  about  1,450  revolutions  per  minute 
with  a  fan  speed  of  1,100  revolutions 
per  minute.  This  gives  the  cotton 
passing  through  about  42  beats  per 
inch.  See  that  the  grid  bars  under  the 
beaters  are  properly  set.  The  tO'tal 
weight  of  the  lap  at  the  frontshould  be 
39  pounds  for  the  shorter  staple  cotton 
and  35  pounds  for  the  longer,  or  a  14- 
ounce  lap  for  the  1  1-16-inch  staple  and 
121^-ounce  lap  for  the  l^i-inch  staple 
cotton. 

Keep  the  picker  room  clean  and  al- 
ways calculate  to  have  enough  laps  of 
each  kind  of  cotton  ahead  so  that  if 
breakdowns  occur  the  cards  will 
not  be  stopped  for  want  of  laps.  The 
draft  of  the  finisher  picker  is  about  3. 
The  cards  should  be  set  as  before  de- 
scribed in  a  previous  lesson,  except 
that  the  feed  plate  should  be  set  to  the 
llcker-in,  according  to  the  length  of 
the  staple.  Cards  should  be  stripped 
three  times  a  day  and  ground  at  least 
once  a  month.  The  wire  fi.llet  should 
be  made  of  34  wire  (or  110s  English 
count)  for  cylinder  and  35  (or  120s 
English  count)  for  doffer  and  flats. 
Use  as  large  a  doffer  as  possible,  say 
26  inches  at  least.  The  draft  of  the 
card  should  be  about  100  for  both 
stocks.  The  weight  of  the  sliver  at 
the  front  of  the  card  should  be  about 
65  grains.  The  production  should  be 
825  pounds  for  the  shorter  staple  and 
600  pounds  for  the  longer  one  for  a 
week  of  60  hours.  The  card  sliver  is 
next  put  through  three  processes  of 
drawing  frames.  A  few  of  the  more 
particular  points  to  look  out  for  are, 
scour  the  frames  at  least  once  a 
month,  keep  your  leather  top  rolls  in 
perfect  condition  and  well  oiled  and 
barnished.  See  that  all  knock-off 
motions  are  in  working  order  to  pre- 
vent single  and  double;  keep  the 
weight  of  your  sliver  uniform  by  siz- 
ing it  at  least  twice  a  day  and  three 
times  a  day  for  fine  yarns,  doubling 
six  into  one  at  all  frames.  The  weight 
of  the  sliver  at  the  finisher  drawing 
should  be  about  70  grains  per  yard. 
The  drawing  sliver  is  drawn  into  .50 
hank  roving  at  the  slubber,  the  stand- 
ard twist  being  found  by  multiplying 
the  square  root  of  hank  by  1.  The 
roving  for  the  20s  yarn  goes  through 
two  processes  of  fly  frames, the  hank  at 
the  first  intermediate  being  2  and  at 
the  second  5  hank.  The  40s  yarn  rov- 
ing is  put  through  three  processes,  the 
hank  roving  at  each  process  being  as 
follows:   first,  1.50;   second,     3.50     and 


94 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


third,  9  to  9.50  hank,  the  doublings  at 
all  frames  being  two  into  one.  The 
sliver  is  then  passed  to  the  spinning 
room.  In  case  the  filling  yarn  is  spun 
on  a  ring  frame  the  following  would 
be  good  particulars  for  the  frame  spin- 
ning 20s:  Gauge  of  frame,  2%  inches; 
diameter  of  ring,  1%  Inches;  length 
of  traverse,  61,1;  inches;  speed  of  spin- 
dle, 7,300  revolutions  per  minute;  twist 
per  inch,  14.50;  and  for  a  warp  frame 
spinning  40s:  gauge  of  frame,  2% 
inches;  diameter  of  ring,  1%  inches; 
length  of  traverse,  6%  inches;  twist, 
28.45.  The  warp  yarn  is  then  spooled, 
warped  and  run  through  a  slasher. 


Dyeing   Particulars. 

RED. 

5  per  cent  benzo  fast  red,  4  B  S,  30 
per  cent  Glauber's,  3  per  cent  soda. 

YELLOW. 

2  per  cent  chrysophenine,  30  per  cent 
Glauber's,  2  per  cent  sal  soda. 

LIGHT  BLUE. 
1  per  cent  diamine  sky  blue  F  F,  30 
per  cent  Glauber's,  1  per  cent  sal  soda. 

LIGHT    GREEN. 

1  per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow  FF,  1 
per  cent  diamine  sky  blue  PF,  30  per 
cent  Glauber's,  1  per  cent  sal  soda. 

ORANGE. 
1'  per  cent  tetrazo  orange,  C    R,    30 
per  cent  Glauber's,  1  per  cent  sal  soda. 

MAROON. 

3  per  cent  tetrazo  Corinth  G,  30  per 
cent  Glauber's,  2  per  cent  sal  soda. 

HELIOTROPE. 
3  per  cent  heliotrope  B  B,  30  per  cent 
Glauber's,  2  per  cent  sal  soda.      On    a 
tannin  and  tartar  emetic  mordant  dye 
the  four  following  shades: 

MALACHITE  GREEN. 

2  per  cent  malachite  green;  also  for 

MEDIUM  BLUE. 
2  per  cent  methylene  blue. 

PINK. 
1  per  cent  rhodamine  5G. 

PURPLE. 

1  per  cent  methyl  violet  3  B. 

BLACK. 
15  per  cent  thion  black  G,  15  per  cent 
sulphide  sodium,  5  per  cent  soda  ash, 
30  per  cent  salt. 

SLATE. 

2  per  cent  thion  black  G,  2  per    cent 


sulphide  sodium,  2  per  cent  soda  ash, 
30  per  cent  salt. 

LIGHT  BROWN. 
8  per  cent  thion  brown  G,  8  per  cent 
sulphide  sodium,  3  per  cent  soda  ash, 
30  per  cent  salt. 

DARK  BROWN. 

12  per  cent  thion  brown  G,  ^  per 
cent  thion  black  G,  12  per  cent  sodium 
sulphide,  3  per  cent  soda  ash,  30  per 
cent  salt. 

Cretonnes  are  also  printed  with  very 
large  picture  designs  of  very  bright 
colors,"  of  very  strcmg  contrast  gener- 
ally. Some  styles  are  of  a  simple 
character  with  small  flowers  and  twigs 
on  a  white    or  cream-colored  ground. 

Other  styles  are  of  startling  reds 
and  other  bright  colors,  on  a  dark 
brown,  maroon  or  black  ground,  or  on 
any  dark  colored  ground  to  make  a 
contrast. 

The  colors  are  printed  with  fast  ali- 
zarine or  tannin  colors,  which  will  be 
fast  to  sunlight  and  washing.  Bright- 
ness of  shade  is  required  in  most  cases. 


SILESIA. 


Silesia  is  a  light-weight  single  cloth 
fabric,  having  a  rather  high  texture, 
and  weighing  about  three  ounces  per 
yard.     It  is  composed     of    all     cotton 


aaaaaaaajaaa 
BaaaDBaGBana 
GBB^aaDaaaBB 
aaaaajaacaan 
aaaaaaaDBaDB 
DBBGaaGBBzaa 
BaziBflGaBGaaa 
BGaaoaaaaaDB 
DBBGaaaBaDaa 
BBjaaaaaaaBQ 
BGaajaaGBBna 


DnaGGaanaDGB 

DBjnaGGBGraa 

BGaBGGBQDBaa 

Drawiog-iii  Draft 

GGGBBB'^GGBBB 

BBBGGGBBajGG 

Reed    Plan 


yarns  l-30s  to  l-40s  in  warp  and  filling 

2 

and  is  usually  made  with  a  — -  45 
degree  right-hand  twill  weave.  It  is 
used  principally  as  a  lining  for  la- 
dies' and  men's  clothing.    A 

VERY  IMPORTANT  FEATURE 
in  connection  with  this  fabric  is  the 
highly  glazed  or  polished  face  of  the 
goods,  which  is  due  to  the  action  of 
the  heated  roller  in  the  calendering 
machine  upon  the  sizing,  which  the 
goods  hajve  absorbed  in  the  process  of 
finishing,  just  previous  to  the  calen- 
dering operation. 

Silesia  is  woven  of  yarn  in  the  gray 
sitate  and  is  dyed  in  the  piece,  in  such 
colors   as    black,   dark     blue,     brown. 


/~l 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


95 


slate,  drab,  steel,  etc.  It  is  woven  on 
any  single  box  roller  loom,  such  as 
the  Mason,  Lowell,  Lewiston,  Colvin, 
etc. 

The  warp  is  made  upon  an  Entwistle 
or  Draper  warping  mill,  and  beamed 
upon  the  Lowell  slasher.  It  is  then 
ready  to  be  drawn  in  on  cotton  har- 
ness, and  woven  in  a  manner  similar 
to  a  drill. 

TO  FINISH  THIS  FABRIC. 

The  goods  are  taken  from  the  loom 
and  brushed,  then  run  through  a  solu- 
tion of  soap  and  cold  water  to  remove 
all  dirt,  after  which  they  are  rinsed 
in  cold  water. 

The  goods  are  now  dyed  in  the  piece, 
after  which  they  are  sized,  then  ten- 
tered  to  keep  from  shrinking  in  width, 
also  to  dry  the  cloth.  After  tentering, 
the  goods  are  run  through  the  calender 
to  produce  the  smooth,  glazed  finish 
upon  the  face  of  the  cloth.  The  fin- 
ished fabric  is  then  ready  to  prepare 
for  packing  and  shipping. 

Four  square  inches  equals  5.4  grains, 

27x36  equals  972x5.4  equals  5,248.8 
divided  by  4  equals  1,312.2  divided  by 
437.5  equals  three  ounces  per  yard,  27 
inches  wide  finished. 

24  pieces  warp  yarn  times  l^^  inches 
equals  36  inches  equals  .3  grains;  36x 
7,000  equals  -252,000  divided  by  .3  equals 
840,000  divided  by  36  equals  23,333  di- 
vided by  840  equals  l-28s  warp. 

30  pieces  filling  yarn  times  li^ 
inches  equals  45  inches  equals  .33 
grains;  45x7,000  equals  315,000  divided 
by  .33  equals  924,242  divided  by  36 
equals  25,673  divided  by  840  equals 
l-30s  filling. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

Reed,  1,012  minus  28.7  inches  in  reed 
minus  three  ends  per  dent,  90  ends  per 
inch  finished  and  72  picks  per  inch 
finished,  equals  86  ends  in  reed  and 
69  picks  in  loom. 

10  per  cent  take-up  on  warp  in 
weaving  6  per  cent  size  on  warp  In 
weaving. 

l-28s  cottooi  warp,l-30s  cotton  filling. 

Color — slate  or   drab. 

90x27  equals  2,430  plus  10  per  cent 
equals  2,700  yards  l-28s  cotton  warp, 
72x27  equals  1,944  yards  l-30s  cotton 
filling. 

2.700  yards  L-28s  cotton  warp  equals 
1.S37  ounces,  1,944  yards  l-30s  cotton 
filling  equals  1.234  ounces,  equals  3.071 
ounces. 

Finish  equals  brush  and  calender. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  yarns  used  in     making     silesia 
vary   from   SOs   to   40s.    These   counts 


of  yarn  would  be  made  in  a  mill  of  the 
second  division  as  given  in  a  previous 
lesson.  Mills  making  this  class  of 
goods  are  now  generally  equipped 
with  a  bale  breaker.  After  the  cotton 
is  stapled  and  the  bales  sorted  out, 
according  to  the  length  of  staple  and 
grade  of  cotton,  several  bales  are 
placed  around  the  bale  breaker  and  the 
cotton  fed  to  this  machine  alternate- 
ly from  each  bale.  By  this  method 
the 

COTTON    IS    MORE    THOROUGHLY 

MIXED 
than  if  a  whole  bale  was  fed  to  the 
machine  at  once.  The  cotton  is  then 
dropped  on  an  endletss  lattice  and  car- 
ried to  its  proper  bin.  This  latter  is 
g'enerally  movable  in  either  direction 
so  that  it  may  be  placed  in  position  to 
drop  the  cotton  into  its  proper  bin. 
The  mixings  should  be  as  large  as  pos- 
sible and  cotton  of  a  fair  grade  having 
a  staple  of  1%  to  l^.i  inches  for  this 
class  of  goods.  The  mixings  should  be 
allowed  to  stand  as  long  as  possible 
and  the  good  waste  from  the  pickers, 
cards,  drawing  frames  and  back  of 
slubber  should  be  mixed  in  at  this 
place.  The  waste  from  the  above  ma- 
chines is  collected  at  regular  intervals, 
and  may  be  mixed  as  fast  as  collected. 
Little  system  is  used  in  mixing  the 
waste  into  the  raw  stock,  but  the  pick- 
er rooim  boss  should  watch  to  see 
that  the  waste  man  keeps  the  different 
lengths  of  staples,  kinds  and  grades 
of  cotton  by  themselves.  Otherwise 

trouble  is  bound  to  occur  at  the  lat- 
ter machines.  The  raw  stock  is  put 
through  an  opener,  and  sometimes 
three  but  more  oftem 

TWO  PROCESSES  OF  PICKING. 
The  hopper  of  the  opener  is  tilled  with 
cotton  and  started  up  and  should  be 
kept  well  filled  all  the  time  it  is  in 
motion.  The  speed  of  the  beater  of 
this  machine  for  this  class  of  goods 
should  be  1,050  revolutions  per  minute 
with  a  fan  speed  of  350  revolutions  per 
minute.  Keep  your  pin  beater  clean 
and  see  that  it  is  adjusted  to  the  prop- 
er distance  from  the  lifting  apron  so 
that  the  correct  amount  of  cotton  will 
be  fed  to  the  breaker  picker.  The  to- 
tal weight  of  the  laps  for  both  the 
warps  and  filling  yarn  should  be  about 
40  pounds  or  16  ounces  to  yard  of  lap. 
These  laps  are  put  up  at  the  finisher 
picker  and  doubled  four  into  one.  The 
speed  of  the  beater  is  1,450  revolutions 
per  minute,  with  a  fair  speed  of  1,100 
revolutions  per  minute.  This  gives 
the  cotton  about  42  beats  per  inch  of 
cotton  fed.      The  beats  per  inch  given 


96 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


to  cotton  do  not  vary  much  on  all 
classes  of  cotton,  except  in  xhe  case  of 
Sea  Island,  of  a  long  staple.  In  tlie 
latter  case  the  speed  of  the  beater  is 
slowed  down  so  that  the  cotton  re- 
ceives from  29  to  34  beats  per  Inch.  The 
total  weight  of  the  lap  at  the  front 
end  of  the  iinisher  is  35  pounds  or  I2V2 
ounces  to  yard  of  lap.     The 

BOBBIN  WASTE  COTTON 
is  mixed  at  this  point,  it  first  having 
gone  through  an  extra  process  to  take 
out  the  twist.  This  waste  is  made  into 
a  lap  and  then  put  up  at  the  finisher 
picker  and  mixed  in  proportions  of 
three  laps  of  raw  stock  to  one  lap  of 
bobbin  waste.  The  draughts  of  the 
picker  should  be  looked  after  to  see 
that  the  curi-ents  of  air  are  properly 
directed  so  as  to  obtain  the  best  ad- 
vantage in  making  an  even,  firm  lap 
that  will  not  lick  up  at  the  card.  Too 
much  waste  in  the  mixing  will  also 
tend  to  make  a  lap  split  or  lick  up 
at  the  card. 

THE  CARD 
should  have  a  draft  of  not  less  than 
100.  The  settings  should  be  the  same  as 
given  in  a  previous  lesson  and  the  cyl- 
inder and  doffer  stripped  three  times 
a  day.  The  cylinder  and  doffer  should 
be  ground  onoe  a  month  and  the  fiats 
about  once  in  every  three  weeks.  The 
weight  of  the  sliver  at  the  front  should 
be  about  05  grains  per  yard.  Use 
the  same  count  of  wire  for  cylinder  and 
doffer  as  given  in  the  last  article. 

The  card  sliver  is  put  through  three 
processes  of  drawing.  In  some  mills 
the  cotton  is  put  through  a  railway 
head.  This  machine  doubles  from 
S  to  16  ends  and  this  at  the  front 
passes  through  a  trumpet,  which  auto- 
matically evens  it.  When  this  process 
is  used,  one  process  of  drawing  frames 
is  left  out.  The  weight  of  the  sliver 
at  the  front  of  the  finisher  drawing 
should  be  about  70  grains  per  yard.  See 
that  your  leather  top  rolls  are  well 
varnished  and  otherwise  In  perfect 
condition.  The  following  directions 
will  be  found  excellent  for  making  the 
varnish  to  use  on  the  rolls:  three 
ounces  glue  (use  a  gelatin  fish  glue), 
one  ounce  of  acid  (acetic).  Let  this 
dissolve  and  then  add  color  and  10  or 
12  drops  of  oil  of  origanum.  In  warm 
weather  a  little  borax  may  be  added. 
The  sliver  is  taken  from  the  drawing 
frame  and  run  through  the  slubber, 
where  it  is  made  into  a  .50  hank  rov- 
ing. The  slubber  roving  is  then  put 
througth 

THREE  PROCESSES  OF  FLY 

FRAMES 

for  both  warp  and  filling    yarns,    the 


hank  roving  being  as  follows:  First 
intermediate,  1.50;  second  interme- 
diate, 4  and  7.50  hank  at  the  jack 
frame  for  the  warp  yarn  and  8.  for  the 
filling  yarn.  See  that  your  fly  frame 
rolls  are  spread  to  the  proper  distance 
and  look  out  for  the  shape  of  your 
full  bobbins  to  see  that  the  taper  of 
the  ends  is  neither  too  blunt  nor  too 
sharp.  If  the  former,  it  is  liable  to 
run  over  both  on  the  frame  and  in 
handling,and  if  the  latter,only  a  small 
amount  of  roving  can  be  wound  on 
each  bohbin.  The  warp  yarn  is  spun 
in  the  ring  spinning  frame,  but  the 
filling  yarn  ma;/  be  either  spun  on  a 
ring  frame  or  a  mule,  but  is  generally 
done  on  the  former  machine.  The  par- 
ticulars for  a  v/arp  frame  spinning  36s 
yarn  has  already  been  given  in  a  pre- 
vious lesson.  Those  used  for  a  filling 
frame  spinning  40s  are  as  follows: 
Gauge  of  spindles,  2%  inches;  diame- 
ter of  ring,  1  5-16  inches;  length  of 
traverse,  5'^  inches;  speed  of  spindle, 
8,800  revolutions  per  minute;  twist  per 
inch,  23.72.  The  warp  yarn  is  then 
spooled,  warped  and  put  through  a 
slasher. 


Dyeing   Particulars. 

Silesias  are  dyed  on  the  jig  ma- 
chine at  the  full  width  of^the  piece. 

CREAM. 

A  few  grains  of  fast  cotton  yellow  C 
Ex,  5  pounds  Glauber's,  one-half 
pound  sal  soda. 

LIGHT   ECRU. 

1-16  ounce  fast  cotton  yellow  C  Ex, 
1-16  ounce,  direct  orange  T  G. 

ECRU. 
1-16  ounce  fast  cotton  yellow  C  Ex, 
1^4  ounces  fast  cotton  brown       G,     5 
pounds  Glauber's,  i/^  pound  sal  soda. 

LIGHT     SLATE. 
2  ounces  fast  ootto'n  yellow  C  Ex,  4 
ounces  direct  black  S.  5  pounds  Glaub- 
er's, y2  pound  sal  soda. 

SLATE. 

1  pound  direct  black  S,  4  ounces  fast 
cotton  yellow  C  Ex.  10  pounds  Glau- 
ber's, 1  pound  sal  soda. 

DARK  SLATE. 

2  pounds  diamine  black  B  H,4  ounces 
diamine  fast  yellow  A.  4  ounces  oxy- 
diamine  black  A,  20  pounds  Glauber's, 
2  pounds  sal  soda. 

LIGHT     DRAB. 
4  ounces  diamine  fast  yellow    A,    4 
ounces  diamine  brown     B,     4     ounces 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


97 


diamine  black  B  H,  10   pounds  Glau- 
ber's, 2  pounds  sal  soda. 

DRAB. 

'/^  pound  diamine  fast  yellow  A,  V^ 
pound  diamine  black  B  H,  6  ounces 
diamine  brown  B,  10  pounds  Glauber's, 
2  pounds  sal  soda. 

LIGHT  TAN. 

%  pound  diamine  fast  yellow  A,  % 
pound  diaminerai  brown  G,  10  pounds 
Glauber's,  two  pounds  sal  soda. 

TAN. 

1  pounds  diamine  catechine  3  G,  1 
pound  diamine  fast  yellow  B,  10 
pounds  Glauber's,  2  pounds  sal  soda. 

OLD  GOLD. 

?.  pounds  diamine  fast  yellow  B,  2 
pounds  diamine  catechine  3  G,  %  ounce 
diamine  black  B  H,  10  pounds  Glau- 
ber's, 2  pounds  sal  soda. 

PEARL. 

1-16  ounce  diamine  brilliant  blue  G, 
5  pounds  Glauber's,  1  pound  sal  soda, 
aftertreated  %  per  cent  copper  sul- 
phate. 

SKY  BLUE. 

6  ounces  diamine  sky  blue  F  F,  ri 
pounds  Glauber's,  i/^  pound  sal  soda. 

BLUE. 

2  pounds  diamine  blue  R  W,5  pounds 
Glauber's,  ^  pound  sal  soda. 

RED. 

6  per  cent  primuline,  25  per  cent 
Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 

Diazo'tized  1%  per  cent  nitrate  soda 
5  per  cent  sulphuric  acid.  Developed 
two  pounds  beta  naphtol. 

SCARLET. 

4  pounds  benzo  fast  scarlet  4  B  S,  30 
pounds  Glauber's,  3  pounds  sal  soda. 

MAROON. 

5  pounds  tetrazo  corinth  B,  30 
pounds  Glauber's,  3  pounds  sal  soda. 

HELIOTROPE. 
Vz  pound  heliotrope  B  B,  10  pounds 
Glauber's,  %  pound  sal  soda. 

PINK. 
Vz  pound  tetrazo     pink     B     U,       20 
pounds  Glaxiber's,  Vq.  pound  sal  soda. 

YELLOW. 
XVi  pounds  chlorine  yellow  G  G,  20 
pounds  Glauber's,  2  pounds  sal  soda. 

ORANGE. 
2  ipounds  benzo  fast  orange     S.     30 
pounds  Glauber's,  3  pounds  sal  soda. 


DARK  GREEN. 
3  per  cent  benzo  dai"k  green  G  G,  2 
per  cent  chrysophenine,  1  per  cent  .di- 
rect black  B. 

GREEN. 
3  per  cent  brilliant  benzo  green  B,  ^ 
per  cent  chrysophenine,  30     per     cent 
Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 
NAVY  BLUE. 

5  per  cent  diazo  black  B  H  N,  30  per 
cent  Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 

LIGHT  BROWN. 

6  per  cent  thion  brown  G,  6  per  cent 
sodium  sulphide,  30  per  cent  Glauber's, 
3  per  cent  soda  ash. 

BROWN. 
6  per  cent  diamine  brofwn  B,  1  per 
cent  diamine  yellow  B,  1  per  cent  dia- 
mine catechine  G.  30  per    cent    Glau- 
ber's, 3  per  cent  sal  soda. 
DARK  BROWN. 
2  per  cent  benzo  fast  black,  2%  per 
cent  benzo  fast  red     L,     4     per     cent 
chrysophenine,  30  per  cent  Glauber's, 
3  per  cent  sal  soda. 

BLACK. 
15  per  cent  thion  black  B,  15  per  cent 
sodium  sulphide,  3  per  cent  soda  ash, 
30  per  cent  Glauber's. 


LAWN. 


Lawn  is  a  Light-weight,  single  cloth 
wash  fabric,  weighing  from  1^^  ounces 
to  2V4  ounces  per  yard  and  in  widths 
from  36  inches  to  40  inches  finished. 
It  is  composed  of  all  cotton  yarns 
(bleached)  from  l-40s  itio  about  1-lOOs, 
and  is  always  woven  with  a  plain 
weave  '— r  • 


PLAIN  LAWN 


is  made  of  solid  wQiite  or  bleached 
yarn  in  both  the  warp  and  filling.  The 
fancier  grades,  or  those  having  a  color 
effect,  are  produced  by  printing  vines, 
floral  stripes,  small  flowers,  etc.,  in 
bright  colors,  in  scattered  effects  upon 
the  face  of  the  goods,  the  warp  and 
the  filling  in  all  cases  being  bleached 
yarns.  The  patterns  are  always  pnM- 
ed,  never  woven. 

Lawn  is  made  in  various  grades 
ranging  in  price  from  5  cents  to  12^^ 
and  15  cents  per  yard,  and  it  is  used 
principally  in  the  manufacture  of  la- 
dies' and  children's  summer  dresses, 
sash  curtains,  etc.  Being  a  rather 
sheer  fabric,  lawn  is  best  adapted  to 


98* 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


ithose  lieht  runndng  looms  in.  wthioh 
the  action  of  siieidding  is  easiest  upon 
tlh'e.fine  yarns  used  in  this  style  ol 
goods.  The  warp  for  this  fabric  is 
dresised  or  beamed  upon  a  regular 
dressing  frame.  It  is  then  drawn  in 
on  4  harnesses  to  permit  of  freedom  in 
shediding. 

The  plain  weave  requires  but  two 
harnesses,  'but  where  there  are  a 
great  number  of  ends  in  the  warp,  the 
yam  would  be  very  maich  cirowded  if 
tih'e  warp  was  drawn  in  on  two  har- 
nesses. Therefore,  four  or  more  har- 
nesses are  used. 

Lawn,  when  finiiShed,  should  have  a 
very  sioft,  smooth  feel.  Therefore 
the  finishing  process  incluides  brush- 
ing, very  light  starching  or  sizing, 
t!hen  calendering  or  pressing. 

16  S'quare  inches  equals  6.9  grains. 

40x36  equals  1,440x6.9  equals  9,936 
divided  by  16  equals  621  divided  by 
437.5  equals  1.419  ounces  per  yard,  40 
inches  wide  finisheid. 

40  pieces'  white  warp  yam  x  3^  in- 

mamamama 
omamamam 
mamamama 
amamamam 
mamamLma 
amamamam 
mamamama 

Weave 

amamamam 
mamamama 

Drawing-inDraft 

aammaamm 
mmaammaa 

Reed  Plan 

ohes  equals  140  inohes  equals  .5 
girainsL 

140x7,000  equals  980,000  divided  by 
.5  equals  1,960,000  divided  by  36 
equals  54,444  divided  iby  840  equals 
1-6 6s  cotton  warp. 

46  pdeces  whiite  filling  yam  x  2^ 
inches  equals  100  equals  .35  grains. 

100x7,000  equals  700,000  divided  by 
.35  equals  2,000,000  divided  by  36 
equals  55,555  divided  by  840  equals 
l-66s  cotton  filling. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

40  inches  finished. 

64  ends  per  inch  finiisihed,  62  picks 
per  inich  finished  equals  60  ends  in 
reed  and  58  picks  in  loom. 

Reed,  1,080;  42%  inohes  in  reed.  2 
ends  per  dent. 

5  per  cent  take-up  on  warp  in  weav- 
ing. 

64@40  equals  2,560  ends  pins  5  pet 
cent  take-up  equals  2,694  yards. 

62  picks  X  40  inches  equals  2,480 
yards'. 

2,694  yards,  l-66s  cotton  warp 
equals  .748  ounces;  2,480  yards,  l-66s 
cotton  filling  equals  .712  lounces,  total, 
1.400  ounces. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  counts  of  yarns  from  whicih 
lawn  is  made  vary  according  to  the 
quality  of  Lawn  being  made.  This 
varies  from  40s  to  100s.  The  yarns 
are  made  in  the  third  division  of  mills, 
as  given  in  a  previous  lesson  or  those 
mills  which  make  high  count  yaxns. 
In  this  article  we  will  consider  the 
warp  yarn  to  be  60®  and  the  filling 
yarn  to  be  100s.  For  'tlhese  two 
counts  raw  stock  of  twio  different 
lengths  of  staple  and  grade  of  yaim 
would  be  used.  For  100s  a  Sea  Island 
cotton  of  about  1%-inch  staple  may  be 
used  and  for  ithe  warp  yarn  an  Allen 
cotton  of  about  li^  inches  staple.  The 
two  cottons  would  be  treated  differ- 
ently at  eveiry  process  and  so  we  will 
describe  the  two  cottons  at  each  proc- 
ess. The  Allen  cotton  would  be  put 
through  the  bale  breaker,  in  the  man- 
ner ascribed  in  the  article  of  last 
week,  and  carried  ito  its  proper  bin. 
At  this  point  the 

GOOD  WASTE  IS  MIXED  IN. 

It  is  not  the  general  custom  to  run 
the  Sea  Island  cotton  through  the  bale 
breaker,  but  to  mix  it  by  hand  great 
care  should  be  taken  that  all  the 
bales  mixed  are  of  a  uniform  length 
and  that  the  grade  of  each  bale  is  up 
to  standard.  Those  bales  not  up  to 
standiard  should  be  shipped  back  to 
tihe  broker.  The  good  waste  is  mixed 
in  at  this  point,  but  be  sure  itihat  the 
waste  boy  only  puts  in  Sea  Island  cot- 
ton for,  if  a  shorter  staple  cotton  gets 
in,  it  will  cause  trouble  at  subsequent 
machines.  The  Allen  cotton  is  put 
through  two  iprocesseis  of  picking  and 
an  opener.  For  this  class  of  cotton 
thiree  processes  of  picking  would  be 
better,  for,  as  it  is  a  very  dirty  cot- 
ton, the  extra  picking  would  help  to 
clean  it.  The  speeds  of  all  the  pick- 
ing machines  previously  given  may  be 
used  for  this  cotton.  The  weight  of 
the  lap  at  the  breaker  picker  should 
be  about  40  pounds  or  a  16-ounce  lap. 
The  dou'blings  are  four  into  one  at  the 
finisher,  the  total  weight  being  3.5 
pounds  or  a  12-ounce  lap.  If  an  inter- 
mediate picker  is  used,  the  total 
weight  of  the  lap  should  be  about  37 
pounds  or  a  12-ounce  lap.  The 
SEA  ISLAND  COTTON 
is  only  put  through  an  opener  and  one 
process  of  picking,  the  reason  for 
this  being  that  the  sitaple  is  so  long 
that  if  two  processes  are  used  the  ex- 
tra beating  that  it  receives  tends  to 
put  neps  into  the  staple.  The  speeds 
of  the  opener  are  slowed  down  and  the 
speeds  of  the  finisher  parts  are  as  fol- 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


99 


lowsi;  The  speed  of  a  rigid  two-blad- 
ed beater  stiould  njot  exceed  1,000  rev- 
olutions per  minute.  The  total  weight 
of  the  lap  should  be  about  30  pounds 
OT  abouiti  a  9-O'un.ce  lap  to  the  yard. 
The  roving  waste  s:hould  be  mixed  in 
at  the  finisher  picker  process,  as  pre- 
viously explained.  The  cards  should 
be  S'et  close  for  both  cottons,  the 
main  difference  ibeing  in  the  setting  of 
the  feed  roller  to  the  licker-in,  which 
should  be  set  -according  to  the  length 
of  staple.  The  usual  poimts  thaiti  have 
been  given  in  previous  lessons  should 
be  looked  out  fox  when  riunning  Allen 
cotton,  the  weight  of  the  silver  in 
front  being  65  grains  to  the  yard  an-d 
the  production  being  about  500  pounds 
for  a  week  of  GO  hours,  the  draft  be- 
ing not  less  than  100.     For  Sea  Island 

ADDITIONAL   CARE 

has  to  be  taken;  also  certain  speeds 
have  to  be  altered.  It  has  been  found 
that  by  slowing  the  speed  of  the  lick- 
er-in less  neps  are  put  into  the  cotton 
and  still  the  cotton  is  cleaned.  In  fact, 
one  oiverseer  usiag  this  class  of  cotton 
lagged  >his  licker-in  pulley  so  as  to  ob- 
tain an  extra  diameter  of  li/^  inches 
and  found  the  results  excellent,  the 
sliver  showing  fewer  neps  than  when 
the  usual  speed  of  the  licker-in  was 
used.  On  this  cotton  it  is  the  general 
praci'lice  to  use  high  drafts  and  some- 
times la  draft  of  165  is  used,  but  for 
general  purposes  a  draft  of  about  130 
is  used.  The  flats  are  speeded  so  as 
to  make  one  complete  revolution  every 
45  minutes,  the  extra  speed  being  ob- 
tained by  lagging  the  pulley  on  the 
cylinder  that  drives  the  flatis.  This, 
of  course,  takes  out  more  waste,  but 
it  makes  less  work  for  the  combers  to 
do.  The  weight  of  the  sliver  at  the 
card  is  about  45  grains  per  yard. 
Strip  and  grind  cards  the  same  as 
stated  in  previoius  articles. 

THE  WIRE  FILLET- 
used  for  cards  making  sliver  for  high 
class  yarns  is  geoierally  firmer  than 
thait  previously  given,  and  if  cards  are 
used  for  high  count  yam  the  size  of 
the  fiilet  should  be  as  follows:  Cylin- 
der No.  34  wire  or  110s  English  count; 
doffer  and  top  flats,  No.  36  wire  or 
130s  English  count.  The  production 
of  a  card  on  Sea  Island  cotton  varies 
from  325  to  450  pounds  per  week  of  60 
hours.  Four  hundred  pounds  is  a 
good  average.  From  the  cards  both 
ooltons  are  taken  to  the  comber  room 
and  the  doublings  at  the  sliver  lap  are 
14  into  one.  The  weight  of  the  Allen 
lap  at  the  front  is  320  grains  per  yard 
and  the  Sea  Island  weighs  250  grams 


per  yaird.  The  cottons  are  then  put 
througih  the  ribbon  lap  miaoMne,  where 
the  Allen  is  douibled  6  into  one,  but  it 
is  the  general  custom  to  double  the 
Sea  Island  only  5  into  one,  the  weiglht 
of  lap  at  the  front  end  being  260 
grains  per  yard  for  Allen  and  200 
grains  for  Sea  Island.  The  laps  aire 
taken  to  the  combers,  where  they  are 
donbled  6  into  one.  The  speed  of  the 
comibers  should  be  abouiti  85  to  90  neps 
per  minute  for  Allen  and  75  to  80  for 
Sea  Island.  The  amount  of  waste 
taken  out  at  the  comber  i®  important, 
a  good  average  for  Allen  is  18  per  cent 
and  for  Sea  Island  20  to  25  per  cent. 
The 

WrBIGHT  OF  THE  SLIVER 

for  Allen  is  about  42  and  for  Sea 
Island  about  36  grains  per  yard. 
After  passing  through  ithe  comber  the 
sliver  is  put  through  two  processes  of 
drawing,  the  weight  of  the  sliver  at 
the  front  being  60  grains  per  yard  for 
Sea  Island  and  70  grains  for  Allen. 
On  all  machines  when  leather  top  rolls 
are  used  for  Sea  Island,  stock  should 
be  kept  in  the  best  of  shape  and  oiled 
and  varnished  frequently.  The  speed 
of  itihe  front  roll  on  the  finisher  draw- 
ing for  Sea  Island  should  be  about 
320  reivolutions  per  minute  or  80  revo- 
lutions per  miniute  slower  thian  for 
Allen.  The  slubber  draws  the  sliver 
into  .50  hank  roving  for  Allen  and  .80 
hank  for  Sea  Island.  The  Sea  Island 
is  put  through  three  processes  of  fly 
frames,  the  hank  roving  ibeing  as  fol- 
lows: First  initiermediate,  2.25;  second 
intermediate,  5.00;  jack  frame,  18 
hank;  and  for  Allen:  Firsit  interme- 
diate, 1.50;  second  intermediate,  4.00-; 
jack  frame,  12  hank.  The  twist  per 
inch  put  into  Sea  Island  cotton  is  a 
little  less  than  the  usual  amount  used 
for  either  cottons,  the  standard  for 
jack  frames  being  square  root  of  hank 
X  1.2.  The  filling  yam  is  mule  spun  and 
the  warp  yam  ring  spun,  the  following 
particulars  being  used:  Gauge  of 
frame,  2%  inches;  diameter  of  ring, 
iVz  inches;  length  of  traverse,  6 
inches;  speed  of  spindle,  10,000  revo- 
lutions per  minute;  twist  per  inch, 
34.86.  The  warp  yarn  is  then  taken  to 
tihe  spoolersiand  from  here  tothe  warp- 
ers, where  it  is  run  on  beams  and  tak- 
en to  the  slasiher.  The  following  i®  a 
good  size  to  use:  100  gal.  water,  54 
pounds  potato  starch,  2  pounds  York- 
shire gum,  iy2  pounds  soa^). 


Finishing  Particulars. 

Lawns    have    to    be   very    carefully 
handled    in    the    .bleaching    process. 


100 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


Tiey  are  starched  with  on  ordinary 
starch  mangle  with  from  8  to  12 
ounces  best  white  German  dextrine 
per  gallon,  mixed  oold,  and  boiled  for 
■one  hour,  with  a  little  blueing  added 
to  shade  required. 

They  are  then  finished  on  the  &tent- 
er  maehine,  dryed  with  hot  air,  care 
being  taken  to  keep  the  pieces  per- 
fectly straight.  Some  ibleachers  handle 
each  piece  separately  from  start  of 
process  to  finish,  bleaching,  starching 
by  hand  in  a  tub  and  drying  in  a 
frame  in  the  stenter  sitove.  By  so  do- 
ing the  ipieces  do  not  get  drawn  and 
Dhe  filling  is  always  stiraight  across 
the  piece. 

Lawns  a-re  often  tinted  light  shades 
of  blue,  pink,  cream,  ecru,  pearl, 
green  and  other  light  tints  with  direct 
colors  added  to  the  starch,  tihe  direct 
colors  being  used  generally.  The  ba- 
sic and  acid  colors  are  also  tinted  to 
make   bright  colors. 


TARTAN  PLAIDS. 

Tartan  plaid  is  a  narrow,  light- 
weight, single  cloth  fabric,  weighing 
from  2  to  214  ounces  per  yard  finished, 
and  is  composed  of  regular  cotton 
yarns  from  l-20s  to  l-26s  in  warp  and 


DGBMuGaa 

ommaamma 

■  ■ZlGBBDn 

■Gnaanaa 

OGGaGDaa 
DGananaQ 
aaGGDaon 
acGGacDG 

Drawing-in  Draft 

OGaBGGBB 

aacGaaaa 

Reed  Plan 

filling.  It  is  always  woven  about  23^^ 
inches  in  the  reed,  to  finish  about  22 
inches  wide.  This  is  done  to  prevent 
it  from  coming  too  close  to  the  .ging- 
ham lines. 

Tartan  plaids  are  generally  woven 
with  a  —  4.5  degree,  right  hand 
twill  weave,  and  are  always  woven  in 
plaid  patterns  in  imitation  of  the  im- 
ported worsted  fabric  of  this  name. 

Each  line  of  patterns  has  a  stand- 
ard name,  which  represents  a  signifi- 
cant style  of  color  arrangement,  such 
as  Rob  Roy,  dress  Stewart.Royal  Stew- 
art. Malcolm,  Fraser,  McGregor,  Sin- 
clair. Goi-don,  Drummond,  Macpher- 
son.   etc. 


Those  colors  most  used  are  red, 
green,  black,  white,  brown,  drab,  wine, 
dark  green,  scarlet,  dark  blue,  etc. 

IN   THE    ROB   ROY  STYLE 

the  pattern  takes  the  form  of  a  broad, 
two-colored  check,  li4xli^  inches, 
either  black  and  red,  or  black  and 
white,  viz.:  72  black!.  72  red  in  warp 
and  filling.  The  dress  Stewart  pat- 
tern is  composed  principally  of  white 
yarn.  The  Royal  Stewart  has  a  de- 
cided red  color  effect.  The  Gordon  pat- 
tern a  very  green  color  effect,  etc. 

Aniline  colors  are  used  in  dyeing  the 
yarns  for  this  fabric,  the  warp  yarns 
being  given  an  extra  run,  to  insure  an 
even  shade,  which,  while  not  being  ex- 
actly a  fast  color,  is  strong  enough  to 
withstand  the  action  of  a  rather  wet 
finish    (gingham   finish). 

The  Fairmount  4x1  box  roller  loom 
is  used  for  the  2,  3  and  4  shuttle  tar- 
tan plaids  and  the  Knowles  4x4  ging- 
ham loom  for  those  styles  having 
more  than  four  colors  in  the  filling. 

The  warps  for  this  fabric  are  ordered 
from  the  spinner  in  either  720  yards, 
l.OSO  yards,  1.200  yards  or  1,500  yards 
lengths,  and  have  either  1,000  ends, 
1,200  ends,  1,400  ends,  or  2,000  ends,  in 
them. 

The  most  popular  are  720,  or  1,080 
yards  and  L400  ends. 

The  warp  is  dyed  in  bulk  and  the 
necessary  number  of  ends  of  each  col- 
or are  then  split  oft'.  When  all  the 
colors  have  been  split  or  separated, 
the  splittings,  or  separated  bunches  of 
ends  of  each  color,  are  assembled  in 
the  beaming  frame,  and  the  yarn  is  ar- 
ranged as  per  pattern  in  the  rathe 
comb,  and  the  warp  run  through  this 
rathe  on  to  the  beam.  After  beaming 
the  warp  is  drawn  in  in  the  regular 
manner. 

To  finish  this  fabric,  the  goods  are 
taken  from  the  loom  and  run  through 
the  brusher,  then  through  the  sprink- 
ler, after  which  they  are  very  lightly 
sized,  then  run  upon  the  tentering 
machine  to  prevent  undue  shrinkage 
in  width,  also  to  assist  in  drying,  then 
calendered,  but  not  to  a  glossy  finish. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

Stj^le — Rob    Roy — finished   22    inches 

wide;       reed,      1,080 — 23^;     inches     in 

reed,  two  ends  per  dent;   l-26s  cotton 

warp — 10  per  cent  take-up;   l-22s  cot- 


ton filling — 40    picks; 


,  45    degree. 


right-hand  twill  weave.  16  ends  extra 
for  selvedge. 

"Warp  pattern:  72  black  x  72 
reed,  total  144,  all  equal  9  patterns 
plus   112   ends. 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


101 


1424  ends  in  warp  (including  sel- 
vedge). 

Start  29  red  at  x.  end  28  red    at    x. 

704  ends  black  plus  10  per  cent 
equals  780  yards  l-26s  warp  equals 
.5715  ounce;  720  ends  red  plus  10  per 
cent  equals  800  yards  l-6s  warp  equals 
.5860  ounce;  48  picks  times  23^ 
equals  5G4  j'ards,  l-22s  filling  equals 
.488  ounces  and  564  yards.  l-22s  filling 
equals  .488.  ounce,  equals  2.1335 
ounce.  2.1335  ounces  per  yard,  22 
inches  wide. 

Finish — verj^  light  size,  tenter,  cal- 
ender. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  yarns  used  in  the  manufacture 
of  tartan  plaids  are  made  in  mills  of 
the  first  and  second  division.as  given 
in  a  previous  lesson.  The  counts  of 
yarn  vary  according  to  the  mill  in 
which  they  are  made  and  the  counts 
taken  as  examples  for  this  article  are 
l-22s  filling  yarn  and  l-26s  warp  yam. 
The  cotton  used  for  these  goods  is  of 
a  fair  grade  and  a  staple  varying  from 
•%  inch  to  1  1-16  inches.  We  will 
consider  the  staple  to  be  one  inch.  The 
cotton  is  stapled  and  put  through  a 
bale  breaker  and  from  here  is  passed 
by  a  series  of  lattice  aprons  to  the 
mixing  bin.  Use  as  large  a  mixing  as 
possible  at  one  time,  because  the  less 
mixings  the  evener  the  yam  will  be. 
The  good  waste  from  the  machines  up 
to  the  slubber  is  mixed  into  the  raw 
stock  at  this  point,  the  collections  of 
this  waste  being  made  at  regular  in- 
tervals. The  raw  stock  is  sometimes 
put  through 

TWO    PROCESSES    OP    PICKING 

and  an  opener  and  sometimes  through 
three  processes  of  picking  and  an 
opener.  It  has  been  found,  that  two 
processes  of  picking  will  clean  the 
cotton  properly,  and  at  the  same  time 
will  not  be  so  apt  to  put  neps  into  it. 
When  two  processes  of  picking  are 
used,  the  particulars  of  the  intermedi- 
ate picker  given  below  maj' be  dropped, 
the  other  particulars  remaining  the 
same  as  given.  The  hopper  or  feed 
box  of  the  opener  should  always  be 
kept  at  least  half  full  and  generally  a 
porcupine  beater  is  u!?ed.  The  speed 
of  this  beater  should  be  about  1,0,^0 
revolutions  per  minute,  with  a  fan- 
speed  of  350  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  cotton  is  then  passed  to  the  feed 
rolls  of  the  breaker  picker.  Keep  the 
pin  beater  of  this  machine  free  from 
cotton,  as  it  has  to  be  watched  to  see 
that  the  sliver  waste  does  not  tangle 


around  it.  This  roll  is  more  trouble- 
some on  some  makes  of  machines  than 
on  otbers.    The 

SPEED  OP  THE  BEATER 

(which  generally  is  of  a  two-bladed 
rigid  type)  is  1,500  revolutions  per 
minute,the  fan  speed  being  1,400  rero- 
lutions  per  minute.  The  weight  of  the 
lap  at  the  front  should  be  about  40 
pounds  total  weight  or  a  16-ounce  lap. 
Some  system  of  marking  has  to  be 
employed  so  that  the  laps  of  other 
grades  and  lengths  of  staple  will  not 
become  mixed  and  thus  cause  trouble 
later  on.  Of  course,  like  staples  and 
weights  of  laps  may  be  placed  togeth- 
er, but  it  is  the  general  custom  to  mark 
the  laps  at  the  end  as  they  are  taken 
off  the  machine  with  different  colored 
crayons.  For  example,  1  1-16  may  be 
marked  brown.  1%  blue,  ]  1-16  sal- 
mon, etc.  This  is  not  generallj^  done 
at  any  except  the  finisher  picker.  The 
laps  are  doubled  four  into  one  at  the 
intermediate  picker,  the  speed  of  the 
beater  being  1,450  revolutions  per 
minute,  and  the  speed  of  the  fan  1,050 
revolutions  per  minute.  The  weight 
of  the  lap  at  the  front  is  about  37 
pounds.  These  laps  are  put  up  at  the 
finisher  picker  and  doubled  four  into 
one.     It  is  at  this  point  that 

THE  ROVING  WASTE 
is  mixed  in  in  a  proportion  of  one  lap 
of  roving  waste  to  three  laps  of  raw 
stock.  The  cotton  receives  about  42 
beats  per  inch  fed.  The  total  weight 
of  the  lap  is  about  39  pounds. or  about 
a  16-ounce  per  yard  lap.  The  speed 
of  the  beater  is  about  1,500  revolu- 
tions per  minute,  and  the  speed  of  the 
fan  1,100  revolutions  per  minute.  The 
laps  are  then  put  up  at  the  card.  The 
card  is  set  to  accommodate  this  stock 
as  described  in  a  previous  lesson,  the 
speed  of  cylinder  being  160  revolutions 
per  minute.  The  speed  of  the  licker-in 
is  300  revolutions  per  minute.  Flats 
make  one  complete  revolution  every 
40  minutes.  The  draft  should  not  ex- 
ceed 100.  Use  a  large  diameter  doffer. 
Strip  three  times  daily  and  grind 
at  least  once  a  month.  The  weight  of 
the  sliver  is  65  grains  per  yard.  The 
production  is  about  900  pounds  per 
week  of  60  hours.  The  sliver  is  then 
put  through 

T1[REE  PROCESSES  OF  DRAWING, 
being  doubled  six  into  one,  the  speed 
of  the  front  roller  being  400  revolu- 
tions per  minute,  the  weight  of 
drawing  at  the  finisher  being  70 
grains.  Some  of  the  points  that  are 
to  be  looked  out  for  are    as    follows: 


102 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


Sitop  motions,  rolls,  laps  and  oiling. 
The  sliver  is  next  taken  to  the  slubber 
and  made  into  .40  hank  roving,the 
usual  standard  for  twist  being  used. 
Look  out  for  the  shape  of  j^our  bobbins 
The  slubber  roving  is  put  through 
three  processes  of  fly  frames,  doubling 
two  into  one.  The  hank  roving  at 
the  first  intermediate  is  1.10,  at  the 
second  2.70  hank  and  at  the  jack 
fra-me    five   hank. 

The  rovings  are  then  taken  to  the 
spinning  room  and  made  into  the  re- 
quired  yarn. 

THE  FILLING  YARN 

may  he  taken  to  either  the  mule  or 
ring  spinning  room.  If  taken  to  the 
ring  spinning  room,  the  following  are 
good  particulars  to  use  for  frame 
making  22s  yarn:  Gauge  of  frame,2?^ : 
diameter  of  ring,  1%  inches;  length  of 
traverse,  Gi^inches;  twist  per  inch,  15.- 
25;  speed  of  spindles,  7,400  revolutions 
per  minute.  For  a  warp  frame  spin- 
ning 26s  use  gauge  of  frame,  2% 
-inches;  diameter  of  ring,  1%  inches; 
length  of  traverse,  G  inches;  speed  of 
spindles,  9,700  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  warp  yarn  is  then 
spooled,  warped  and  put  through  a 
slasher. 


Dyeing   Particulars. 
RED. 

4  per  cent  diamine  fast  red  F,  30  per 
cent  Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 

GREEN. 

1%  per  cent  diamine  sky  blue  FF, 
1^/^  per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow  FF, 
30  per  cent  Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

BLACK. 

15  per  cent  thion  black  G,  15  per 
cent  sulphide  soda,  30  per  cent  salt;  3 
per  cent  soda  ash. 

BROWN. 

5  per  cent  benzo  fasit  orange  S,  2  per 
cent  chrysophenine,  2^^  per  cent  benzo 
fast  black.  30  per  cent  salt,  2  per  cent 
soda  ash. 

DRAB. 

%  per  cent  benzo  fast  black,  ^  per 
cent  chrysophenine,  3  ounces  benzo 
fast  red  G  L,  30  per  cent  Glauber's,  2 
per  cent  sal  soda. 

SLATE. 

%  per  cent  benzo  fast  black,  V4,  ounce 
chrysophenine,  Va  ounce  benzo  fast 
red  GL,  30  per  cent  Glauber's,  2  per 
cent  sal  soda. 


SCARLET. 

5  per  cent  diamine  scarlet  B,  30  per 
cent  Glauber's,  2  per  cent  sal  soda. 

DARK  GREEN. 

6  per  cent  diamine  black  HW,  4  per 
cent  diamine  fast  yellow  B,  30  per  cent 
Glauber's,  2  per  cent  sal  soda. 

WINE. 

6  per  cent  diamine  Bordeau  B,  30  per 
cent  Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 

BLUE. 

4  per  cent  brilliant  benzo  blue  6  B, 
30  per  cent  Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

DARK  BLUE, 

15  per  cent  pyrogene  indigo  B,  15  per 
cent  sodium  sulphide,  30  per  cen;t  salt, 
3  per  cent  soda  ash,  2  pints  mineral 
oil. 

YELLOW. 

2  per  cent  chloramine  yellow  M,  30 
per  cent  Glauber's,  2  per  cent  soda 
ash. 


BAYADERE. 


Bayadere  is  a  fabric  in  which  the 
pattern  consiiats  of  a  stripe  running 
across  the  width  instead  of  the 
length  of  the  material.  Such  patterns 
are  almost  entirely  confi.ned  to  ladies' 
and  children's  dress  goods,  and  may 
be  composed  entirely  of  cotton,  as  in 
the  cheapest  grades,  of  cotton  and 
worsted  in  the  medium,  or  entirely  of 
worsited  or  worsted  and  silk  in  the  best 
grades. 

The  fabric  considered  in  this  article 
is  a  medium  grade  cloth  of  ladies' 
dress  gO'Ods,  and  is  compoised  of  worst- 
ed, silk  and  cotton  and  weighs  5% 
ounces  per  yard,  36  inches  wide,  fin- 
ished. 

The  pattern  is  a  zigzag  stripe,  ex- 
tending across  the  fabric  in  the  direc- 
tion of  the  weft  on  a  rep  ground. 

Figure  1  shows  the  full  design  for 
the  one  repeat  of  the  pattern,  and  is 
complete  on  132  warp  threads  and  30 
picks. 

Figure  2  is  the  drawing-in  draft  and 
is  complete  on  13  harnesses. 

Figure  3  is  the  reeding  plan. 

Figure  4  is  the  chain  draft. 

The  arrangement  of  the  warp  and 
we^t  threads  is  as  follows: 

Warp,  2  threads  blue  2-50s  worsted 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


103 


(xx  Ohio),  1  thread  brown  2-60s  cot- 
ton (carded  peeler) ;  3  threa:ls  in  pat- 
tern. 

Weft,  1  pick  light  blue  40-2s  spun 
«ilk,  2  picks  brown,  20-cut  cotton 
<wool  spun);   3  picks  in  pattern. 


Fig.  3.        Fig.  2. 


When  drawing-in,  cdtton  must  al- 
ways come  on  firsit  four  shafts,  and 
worsted  on  the  last  nine  shafts. 

Almost  any  (lobby  loom  might  be 
used  having  the  required  number  of 
harnesses  and  shuttle  boxes. 


20  reed,  3  threads  per  dent — 60 
threads  per  inch.  Reeded  38 ^A  inches 
wide  for  36  inches  finished,  40  picks 
per  inch. 

The  above  warp  must  be  made  on 
two  beams:  cotton  threads  on  top 
beam,  worsted  threads  on  bottom 
beam. 


In  regulating  the  tension  of  the  two 
beams,  considerable  care  musit  be  used 
in  order  that  the  rib  in  the  ground 
may  be  made  as  clear  and  distinct  as 
possible.  This  may  be  acoompllshed 
by  having  relatively  more  weight  on 
the  cotton  beam  than  on  the  worsted, 
which  is  an  important  feature  in  the 


lO^M 


A     COT.  OX      FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


manufacture  of  all  fabrics  of  a  rep 
character,  and  which  is  fully  illustrat- 
ed by  the  small  sketch.  Figure  5.  It 
will  be  noticed  that  the  cotton  (thin) 
threads  axe  held  very  nearly  straight, 
while  the  worsted  are  forced  to  bend- 
around  the  heavy  picks  of  the  weft. 
The  take-up  of  the  woirsted  threads  is 
therefore  much  greater  than  that  of 
the  cotton,  being  about  eight  per  cent, 
while  the  cottton  is  only  about  two  per 
cent. 

The  worsted  warp     then     must     be 
made  relatively  longer. 

In  introducing  the  weft  threads,  the 


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Fig.  4. 


silk  pick  must  always  enter  when  the 
cotton  warp  threads  are  up  in  the 
ground  portion  of  the  cloth. 

THE  FINISHING. 

In  fini'sihing  fabrics  of  this  character 
everything  depends  upon  the  quality 
of  the  cloth — the  fabric  just  described 
having  a  dry  finish,  viz.:  after  being 
burled  and  mended,  it  is  brushed  and 
pressed  and  rolled  and  is  then  ready 
for  shipment. 

In  the  best  grades,  however,  the 
cloth  must  be  scoured,  tentered,  sh-^ar- 
ed,  brushed  and  pressed  before  being 
rolled  and  made  ready  for  shipment. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  machines  used  in  making  the 
count  of  yarn  required  for  the  warp 
yarn  of  bayadere  will  be  found  in  the 
second  division  of  mills,  as  gtiven  in  a 
previous  lesson.  Bayaderes,  as  has 
been  stated,  may  be  composed  of  all 
worsted,  or  all  cotton  yarns  or  a  mix- 
ture of  worsted  and  cotton  yarns,  or  a 
mixture  of  worsted,  silk  and  cotton. 
In  fact,  there  may  be  almost  any  com- 
bination of  these    three    fibres.      The 


best  grades  of  baj>"adere  are  made  up 
of  worsted  and  silk  yarns.  For  this 
article  we  will  consider  that  the  fabric 
is  composed  of  all  three  kinds  of  raw 
stock,  worsted,  silk  and  cotton.  For 
the  warp,  2-60s  yarn  is  used  and  for 
the  filling  a  20-cut  cotton  yarn  is 
used.  The  filling  yarn  is  spun  in  a 
woolen  mill  and  so 

THE  WARP   YARN 

will  be  the  one  considered  under  the 
above  heading. 

For  this  count  of  yam  a  peeler  cot- 
ton is  used  of  about  1^4  inches  staple. 
This  cotton  should  be  of  a  good  grade- 
and  should  be  run  through  a  bale 
breaker.  The  principal  part  of  the 
mixing  is  done  at  the  bale  breaker  for 
this  cotton.  The  cottton  is  brought 
from  the  storehouse  and  sampled  and 
the  bales  having  the  same  length  of 
staple  are  put  together.  Those  hav- 
ing a  staple  or  grade  not  up  to  m.ark 
are  laid  one  side.  Several  bales  are 
opened  and  placed  around  the  bale 
breaker  and  the  attendant  feeds  from 
each  bale  alternateily  until  all  the  cot- 
ton is  gone.  As  many  bales  as  pos- 
sible and  convenient  should  be  opened 


Fi£ 


and  placed  around  the  bale  breaker  at 
one  time  because  a 

MORE    EVEN   MIXING- 

will  thus  be  obtained  and  the  yam  will 
run  a  great  deal  evener.  After  passing 
through  the  bale  breaker  the  stock  is 
conve^'ed  automatically  to  the  mixing 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


105 


bins.  If  the  mixing  is  done  by  hand, 
the  same  points  have  to  be  looked  out 
for,  the  only  diffeTeince  being  that  sev- 
eral hands  are  used  instead  of  a  ma- 
chine. At  the  bins  the  gool  waste  is 
mixed.  The  raw  stock  is  then  passed 
through  two  or  three  processes  of 
picking  and  an  opener.  If  only  two 
processes  of  picking  are  iisied,  then  the 
particulars  given  for  the  intermediate 
picker  may  be  left  out,the  other  partic- 
ulars given  remaining  the  same.  The 
hopper  of  the  opener  should  always  be 
kept  more  than  half  full.  The  speed  of 

THE    BEATER 

is  1,050  revolutions  per  minute.  Gen- 
erally a  porcupine  style  of  beater  is 
used  for  this  machine,  with  a  fair 
speed  of  350  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  cotton  is  then  passed  to  the 
breaker  picker.  The  speed  of  tJb.e 
beater  (two-bladed  rigid  type)  is 
about  1,500  revolutions  per  minute, 
that  of  the  fan,  1,400  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  weight  of  the  laps  at  the 
front  shoaild  be  about  40  pounds,  or  a 
iG-ounce  lap.  The  laps  are  put  up  at 
the  intermediate  picker  and  doubled 
four  into  one.  The  speed  of  the  beater 
should  be  1,450  revoluitions  per  minute. 
That  of  the  fan  1,050  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  Aveight  of  the  laps  at  the 
front  end  should  be  about  37  pounds, or 
a  12-ouncelap  lor  peeler  cotton  to  make 
this  class  of  goods. 

The  laps  are  put  up  at  the  finisher 
picker  and  doubled  four  into  one.  It 
is  at  this  point  that  the 

CUT  ROVING  IS  MIXED  IN 

(it  having  beien  previously  put  through 
a  special  picker,  which  takes  out  the 
twist  and  leaves  it  in  a  fluffy,  untwist- 
ed state  and  then  it  is  put  through  a 
picker  and  made  into  a  lap  of  the 
same  weight  as  the  laps  from  the  in- 
termediate piclver),  in  the  proportinn 
of  three  laps  of  raw  stock  to  one  lap 
waste.  The  speed  of  the  beater  for 
this  machine  is  1,450  revolutions  per 
minute,  with  a  fan  speed  of  1,100  revo- 
lutions per  minute.  This  gives  the 
cotton  passing  through  42  beats  or 
blows  jier  inch.  The  weight  of  the 
lap  at  the  front  is  35  pounds,  or  a  l-Vo- 
ounce  lap.  Watch  all  the  points  that 
have  previously  been  pointed  out.  The 
variation  from  standard  should  not  be 
over  8  ounces  either  side  for  the  to- 
tal lap.  The  lap  is  next  taken  to  the 
card.       The 

SETTINGS  OF  THE  CARD 

for  this  division  of  mills  have  been 
previously  given. 


The  draft  should  not  exceed  100; 
speed  of  licker-in,  300  revolutions  per 
minute;  speed  of  flats,  1  revolution 
every  45  minutes; .  weight  of  sliver,,. 65 
grainis;  production  about  650  pounds 
for  week  of  60  hours.  Sitrip  thre'e  times 
a  day,  grind  once  a  month,  and  use  as 
large  a  doffer  as  possible.  The  slivem 
is  next  pn^t  through  three  processes  of. 
drawing,  the  doublings  at  eiach  process^ 
being  six  into  one.  the  weighit  of  tihe 
finisher  drawing  being  72  grains  per 
yard,  and  the  revolutions  per  minute, 
of  front  roll  350.  Either  metallic  or 
leather  covered  rolls  may  be  used  art; 
this  machine.  If  the  formfer  are  used, 
see  that  they  are  properly  siet  and  k^ep 
them  v/iell  scoured;  if  the  latt.er  aire 
used,  keep  them  in  gO'Od  repair,  weil 
varnished,  and  oiled.  For  this  length 
of  staple  the  following 

SETTINGS 

of  the  boittom  steel  rolls  may  be  used: 
Front  roll  to  second  roll,  1^^ 
inches;  second  roll  to  third,  1% 
inches;  third  roll  to  back,  1%  inches. 
The  sliver  is  put  through  the  slubber 
and  made  into  .55  hank  roving.  Three 
processes  of  speeders  or  fly  frames  are 
used,  the  hank  roving  being  as  fol- 
lows: at  first  intermediate  1.50;  at  the 
second,  4,  and  at  the  jack  frame,  12. 
The  usual  points  are  to  be  looked  out 
for  in  conneiotion  with  fly  frames.  The 
roving  is  then  passed  to  the  spinnling 
room  and  made  into  60s  yai-n.  For  a 
warp  frame  maldng  this  count  use  the 
following  particulars:  Gauge  of  frame, 
2%  inches;  diameter  of  ring,  \% 
inches;  length  of  traverse,  6  inches; 
twist  per  inch,  34.86;  speed  of  spindle, 
T0,000  revolutions  per  minute.  The 
yarn  is  then  taken  to  the  twister  and 
doubled  or  tv/isted  into  a  two-ply 
yarn.  It  is  then  passed  to  the  spool- 
er and  from  here  to  the  warper  and 
from  here  to  the  slasher. 


Dyeing   Particulars. 
BROWN. 

5  per  cent  diamine  brown  B,  1  per 
cent  diamine  fast  yellow  B,  30  per  cent 
Glauber's,  2  per  cent  sal  soda. 

LIGHT  BLUE    (SILK). 

1  per  cent  patent  blue,  pure,  5  per 
cent  acetic  acid. 

BLUE   (WORSTED). 

3  per  cent  patent  blue  A,  20  per  oeiut, 
Glauber's  salt,  T-  per  cent  sulphuric 
aoid. 


}«6 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


BOUGLE. 


Boucle  is  a  single  cloth,  dress  goods 
fabric,  weighing  from  7  to  8  ounces  per 
yard,  44  inches  wide  finished,  and  com- 
posed of  plain  and  fancy  twist  (cot- 
ton) yarn  in  warp  and  filling,  also  hav- 
ing a  worsted  loop  yarn  in  the  filling. 

Boucle  is  used  princSipally  as  a  nov- 
elty dress  fabric  for  ladies'  spring  and 
fall  .suitings,  .the   disitinguishing     fea- 


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DBDBDBDB 

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Reed  Flan 

BOUCr.E    (Woolen) 
Warp,  all  brown.     Filling,  3  brown. 


1  worsted,  1  loop. 


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Drawing-in   Draft. 


Reed  Plan 
BOUCLE   (Cotton) 


ture  of  the  cloth  being  the  small  loop 
in  the  filling  yarn,  whioh  curls  over 
the  face  of  the  goods. 

COTTON  BOUQLE 
is  gemerally  made  with  a  fancy  combi- 
nation weave,  and  the  all-wool  grades 
■with  a  suraJight  twill  weave. 

In  the  fabric  boucle  the  loop  yarn  is 
always  a  vv^orsted  filling  thread .tw'isted 
wltli  a  single  cotton  thread,  generally 
dyed  black.      The    color    effects     are 


either  solid  color  in  warp  and  filling 
with  the  loop  yarn  in  contrast,  or  end 
and  end  patterns,  created  by  using 
fancy  colored  cotton  twist  yarns.  The 
colors  most  used  are:  Brown,  dark 
blue,  cadet  blue,  light  green,  drab,  etc, 
or  these  siame  colors  are  twisted  with 
a  black  thread  for  twist  effects. 
Boucle  is  usually  woven  in  the  pick 
and  pick  loom,  owing  to  the  fact  that 
there  is  never  more  than  one  pick  of 
loop  filling  put  in  at  one  place,  the  ar- 
rangement generally  being  4,  5,  6,  8 
picks,  cotton  or  cotton  twist,  to  one 
pick  of  worsted  loop  yarn. 

The  woven  fabric  (loom)  of  this 
name  is  very  closely  imitaJted  by  a 
knitted  fabric  of  similar  appearance, 
which  is  a  light-weight  grade  of  as- 
trakhan. 

THE  KNITTED  FABRIC 

is  made  of  cotton  yarns,  woujnd  in  cone 
shape  and  placed  upon  the  l^nitting 
frame,  no  warp  being  required,  and  the 
thread  which  forms  the  loop  is  a  reg- 
ular worsited  thread,  dyed  black  and 
wound  upon  a  small  bottle  bobbin. 
The  loops  oin  the  face  of  the  cloth 
are  formeil  by  the  loop  wheels  in 
the  machine  throwing  the  worsted 
thread  betweem  the  stitching  places, 
upon  the  face  of  the  cloth  in  such  a 
manner  as  to  form  a  loop. 

WARP  PREPARATION. 

The  yarns  can  be  taken  direct  from 
the  twister  and  spooled  upon  small 
fi-inch  spools  and  these  spools  assem- 
bled in  the  creel  rack  at  the  warp  mill 
and  the  warp  made  in  sections  upon 
the  mill  drum,  and  afterwards  run  off 
the  drum  upon  the  loom  beam:  or,  the 
yarns  are  taken  from  the  twister  and 
the  entire  number  of  spools  required 
are  placed  upon  a  creel  rack  and  the 
whole  warp  made  by  beiing  run  around 
an  upright  mill  drum,  which  is  an  up- 
right framework  centred  upon  an 
axle  and  turned  by  a  crank,  and  hav- 
ing a  circumference  of  from  20  to  50 
yards. 

If  made  upon  an  upright  mill,  the 
warp,  when  finished,  is  pulled  off  and 
beamed. 

To  finish  boucle,  the  goods  are  tak- 
en from  the  loom,  and  scoured  in  a 
solution  of  soap  and  cold  water,  after 
which  they  are  rinsed  in  cold  water, 
tentered  and  pressed. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

Reed,  720 — 49')^  inches — 1  end  per 
dent,  20  picks  per  inch;  2-12s  cotton 
warp  and  filling. 

Warp  pattern:  4  black  and  blue 
twist.  2  black. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


107 


Filling  pattern:    4  black     and     blue 
twist,  ]   black  loop  yarn. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  machines  on  which  the  counts 
of  yarn  are  made  in  the  manufacture 
of  boucle  will  be  found  in  the  first  di- 
vision of  mills,  as  given  in  a  previous 
lesson.  The  warp  yarn  is  made  from 
a  cotton  fibre,  as  is  the  filling  yarn, 
but  this  class  of  cloth  has  an  extra  fill- 
ing.which  is  spun  from  a  worsted  fibre. 
This  worsited  filling  is  what  is  known 
as  a  loop  yarn  and  when  woven  into 
the  cloth  gives  it  a  rough  surface.  The 
loops  are  obtained  by  different  meth- 
ods, this  one  being  a  three-ply 
yarn. 

THE  YARN 

to  make  the  filling  warp  yarns  for 
boucle  is  made  from  raw  stock  having 
a  staple  of  about  one  inch.  This  raw 
stock  is  generally  mixed,  in  large 
quantities,  by  hand.  If  two  mixings 
are  made,  it  is  a  greiat  deal  better,  for 
then  one  mixing  can  be  standing  and 
drying  out  while  the  other  mixing  is 
being  used.  The  good  waste  is  mixed 
at  this  point  and  sometimes,  although 
on  a  poor  quality  of  goods,  a  small  per- 
centage of  comber  waste  is  used  in  the 
mixing.  The  raw  stock  is  run  through 
an  opener  and  three  processes  of 
pickers.  The  hopper  or  feed  box  of  the 
opener  should  be  kept  more  than  half 
full  in  order  to  obtain  as  even  a  feed 
as  possible.  The  speed  of  the  beater 
is   1,000   revolutions  per   minute. 

The  cotton  sheet  is  then  passed  on 
to  the  feed  rolls  of  the  breaker  and 
is  struck  from  them  by  the  beater, 
which,  if  of  the  rigid  two-bladed  tyre, 
makes  1,500  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  total  weight  of  the  lap  at  the 
front  is  40  pounds,  or  a  16-ounce  lap. 
These  laps  are  doubled,  four  into  one, 
at  the  intermediate  picker,  of  which 
the  beater  makes  1,450  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  total  weight  of  the  lap 
at  the  front  of  this  machine  is  39 
pounds,  or  141/^  ounces  to  the  yard.  The 
laps  are  next 

DOUBLED  FOUR    INTO  ONE 

at  the  finisher  picker.  It  is  at  this 
point  that  the  cut  roving  waste  is 
mixed  in  in  the  proportion  of  one  lap 
cut  roving  to  three  laps  raw  stock. 
The  beater  of  this  machine  makes  1,450 
revolutions  per  minute,  which  gives  42 
beats  per  inch  of  cotton  fed.  The  to- 
tal weight  of  lap  at  the  front   is   39 


pounds,  or  a  14',/^-ounce  lap.  It  will 
thus  be  seen  that  the  doublings  in  a 
picker  room,  where  three  processes  of 
picking  are  used,  will  be  16  against 
a  total  draft  of  14.6,  the  individual 
drafts  at  the  pickers  being  about  1.86 
at  breaker  and  2.80  at  the  intermediate 
and  finisher  pickers.  The  laps  are  put 
up  at  the  card,  the  draft  of  which  for 
this  class  of  goods  should  not  exceed 
100.  The  speed  of  the  licker-in  is  300 
revolutions  per  minute,  the  top  flats 
making  one  revolution  every  45  min- 
utes. The  card  fillet  of  work  of  this 
class  should  use  No.  32  wire  for  cyl- 
inder and  No.  33  wire  for  doffer  and 
top  flats  (No.  32  wire  equals  90s  Eng- 
lish count  and  No.  33  wireequals  100s). 
Grind  wire  once  a  month,  strip  three 
times  a  day,  both  cylinder  and  doffer, 
although  some  overseers  strip  the  dof- 
fer once  more.  The  wei-jht  of  the 
sliver  should  be  about  65  grains  per 
yard  and  the  card  should  produce  be- 
tween 900  and  950  pounds  per  week  of 
60  hours.  See  that  your  knifeblades 
under  the  licker-in  are  properly  set. 
The  tYro-knife  arrangement  is  better 
than  the  one  knife.    Use 

A  LARGE  SIZE  DOFFER. 

In  setting  your  doffer  to  the  cylinder 
use  a  No.  5  gauge.  Two  processes  of 
drawing  are  generally  used  and  for 
this  class  of  work  it  is  the  general 
custom  to  use  metallic  rolls,  as  they 
are  better  adapted  to  this  class  of 
work  than  the  leather  covered  top 
rolls.  In  calculating  the  production 
turned  off  for  metallic  rolls  alv^^-ays 
add  33  1-3  per  cent  over  that  calculated 
for  leather  covered  rolls.  The  sliver 
weighs  a,bout  70  grains  per  yard  and 
with  400  revolutions  per  minute  of 
front  roll  produces  2,100  pounds  per 
week  of  60  hours.  The  roving  is  then 
put  through  the  slubber  and  made  in- 
to 40  hank  roving.  It  is  then  run 
through 

TWO  PROCESSES  OF  FLY  FRAMES, 
where  it  is  made  into  1.25  hank  at  the 
first  intermediate  and  2.oO  at  the  sec- 
ond. The  roving  is  ihen  taken  to  the 
spinning  room.  The  particulars  used 
for  a  warp  spinning  frame  making  12s 
yarn  would  be  as  follows:  Gauge  of 
iframe,  3  inches;  diameter  of  ring,  2^4 
inches;  length  of  travei'se,  7  to  7%; 
speed  of  spindles,  19,000;  and  for  a  fill- 
ing frame  spinning  12s  use:  Gauge  of 
spindle,  2%  inches;  diameter  of  ring, 
11/.  inches;  length  of  traverse,?  inches; 
speed  of  spindle,  6.600.  The  yarn  is 
then  spooled,  twisted  into  2-ply  123 
and  warped,  after  which  it  is  run 
through  a  slasher. 


108 


A   COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY. 


Colors  for  Boucle. 
Following  are     good     formulas     for 
deing  boucle: 

BROWN. 
10  per  cent  thion  brown    G,    10    per 
cent  sulphide     sodium,     30     per     cent 
Glauber's,  3  pec  cent  sal  soda. 

DARK  BLUE. 
10   ])er  cent   immedial   indone  B,   10 
per  cent  sulphide     sodium,  30  per  cent 
Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 

CADET  BLUE. 
8  per  cent  immedial  sky  blue,    8  per 
cent    sulphide     sodium,       30  per  cent 
Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 

LIGHT  GREEN. 
4  per  cent  immedial  sky  blue,  3  per 
cent  immedial  yellow    D,     7  per  cent 
sulphide  sodium,  30  per  cent  Glauber's, 
3  per  cent  sal  soda. 

DRAB. 

3  per  cent  thion  black  G,  %  per  cent 
thion  brown  G.  3  per  cent  sulphide  so- 
da, 20  per  cent  Glauber's,  2  per  cent 
sal  soda. 

SLATE. 

2  per  cent  immedial  black  N  N,  2  per 
cent  sulphide  soda,  20  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's, 2  per  cent  soda  ash. 

BLACK. 
15  per  cent  immedial  black  N  B,  15 
per  cent  sulphide  soda,     30    per     cent 
Glauber's,  3  per  cent  soda  ash. 

SCARLET. 
6  per  cent  diamine  scarlet    B,  3  per 
cent  sal  soda,  30  per  cent  Glauber's. 

RED. 
6  per  cent  benzo  fast  red    4  B,  30  per 
cent  Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 


COMBED  YARN  GOODS  — 
COTTON  LININGS. 


Cotton  lining  is  a  single  cloth,  all 
cotton  fabric,  weighing  from  2  to  2^^ 
ounces  per  yard,  the  goods  finished  at 
20y4  inches,  including  %  inch  for 
white  selvedge.  All  combed  cotton 
warp  yarns  are  used  in  the  produc- 
tion of  this  fabric,which,when  finished, 
is  used  principally  in  the  manufacture 
of  sleeve  linings,  and  as  a  stiffening  in 
the  more  expensive  grades  of  ladies' 
and  men's  clothing. 


The  object  of  treating  the  cotton 
while  in  the  sliver  state,  to  the  addi- 
tional process  of  combing,is  to  further 
assist  in  the  operation  of  straightening 
out,  or  paralleling  of  the  cotton  fibres. 
Combed  cotton,  after  being  spun  into 
yarn,  produces  a  smooth,  round,  even 
thread. 

SLEEVE  LININGS 

are  made  of  combed  yarns  which  after 
being  dyed  the  required  color  are 
glazed  or  polished,  and  this  process,  in 
connection  with  the  weave  employed, 
generally  an  eight  harness  satin  warp 
effect  face,  gives  to  the  yarn  in  cloth 
the  appearance  of  a  close  woven  hair 
cloth  fabric.  The  finished  fabric  has 
a  very  smooth,  hard,  even  face,  though 
not  a  harsh  feel. 

Linings  are  usually  made  in  solid 
black  color,  or  in  fancy  bright  colored 
stripes,upou  a  black  groun-l.  The  col- 
ors forming  the  stripe  patterns  are 
cherry  red,  cadet  blue,  yellow,  red, 
brown,  etc. 

The  glazing  machine  consists  main- 
ly of  a  large  copper  cylinder,    four    or 


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Reed  Plan 


five  feet  in  diameter.  This  cylinder  is 
heated  to  a  high  degree  of  intensity  by 
either  gas  or  steam. 

As  the  cylinder  revolves,  there  are 
a  series  of  rollers  working  against  its 
surface,  and  running  in  an  opposite  di- 
rection. These  rollers  are  set  in  the  ma- 
chine frame  above  the  cylinder  and  at 
regular  distances,  in  much  the  same 
manner  as  the  workers  and  stripper 
on  a  woolen  card. 

The  yarn  is  fed  to  the  machine 
through  a  pair  of  feed  rollers,  from 
which  it  passes  over  the  face  of  the 
cylinder,  and  under  the  small  rollers, 
or,  in  other  words,  between  the  cylin- 
der and  the  small  rollers,  after  which 
it  is  delivered  by  a  pair  of  rollers,  sim- 
ilar to  the  feed  rollers.  The  yarn  is 
run  through  the  machine  twice,  the 
object  being  to  submit  all  parts  of  its 
surface  to  the  friction,  to  cause  the 
.glaze  to  come  up. 

Linings   can    be    woven    in    a   single 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


lOL 


box  roller  or  clipper  loom.  Lots  ot 
trouble  is  thus  developed  by  the  fancy 
strapping  required  to  produce  the  satin 
weave  effects. 

Good  results  are  obtained  by  using 
plain,  single  box  loom,  having  a  dobby 
or  witch  top  attached. 

To  finish  this  fabric,  the  goods  are 
taken  from  the  loom  and  lightly 
starched,  then  run  through  the  calen- 
der two  or  three  times  to  set  the 
smooth,  glazed  finish. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

Reed,  1,000—23  inches  in  reed,  two 
ends  per  dent;  62  picks  l-30s  black 
cotton  filling,  l-20s  cotton  (glazed 
warp)  yarn. 

Warp  pattern:  10  black,  4  cadet 
blue,  10  black,  4  yellow.  Weight,  about 
2%  ounces:  finish,  20^4  inches.  Eight 
harness  satin  weave;  warp  effect  face. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Cotton  linings  are  made  of  various 
counts  of  yarn,  according  to  what 
grade  of  linings  is  wanted.  In  this  ar- 
ticle we  will  consider  that  the  cotton 
warp  yarn  is  l-20s  combed,  and  the 
filling  yarn  l-30s.  The  j-arn  for  linings 
of  this  grade  would  be  spun  in  mills 
of  the  second  division,  as  given  in  a 
previous  lesson,  although  yarns  for 
linings  are  made  in  all  throe  divisions 
of  mills. 

THE  RAW  STOCK 

ueed  should  be  of  a  fair  grade,  with  a 
staple  of  about  1  5-16  inches.  This 
is  put  through  a  bale  breaker  and 
from  here  carried  by  a  series  of  end- 
less   lattices    to    its    proper    bin. 

The  bins  to  hold  the  different  grades 
of  cotton  should  be  plainly  marked  on 
both  ends,  shov/ing  the  kind,  grode 
and  length  of  3taple,sothatno  mistakes 
will  occur  through  guesswork.  If 
different  lengths  of  staple  get  mixed 
togethei  it  will  cause  a  great  deal  of 
trouble  at  the  machines,  having  their 
rolls  set  at  a  certain  distance  of  one 
length  of  staple. 

The  cotton  is  fed  to  the  bale  break- 
er in  the  manner  described  in  the  last 
lesson.  The  cotton  is  allowed  to  dry 
out  as  much  as  possible  before  being 
fed  to  the  opener.  The  good  waste  is 
mixed  in  at  the  bins.  This  class  of 
cotton  passes  through  an  opener  and 
either  two  or  three  processes  of  pick- 
ing (generally  two  processes  being 
used).  If  only  two  processes  are  used 
the  particulars  given  for  the  interme- 
diate picker  may  be  omitted.  Use  the 
different  speeds  of     the     opener     and 


pickers  as  given  in  a  previous  lesson. 
The  total  v/eight  of  the  lap  at  the  front 
end  of  the  breaker  picker  is  50  pounds, 
or  16  ounces  to  the  yard.  This  is  put 
up  at  the  intermediate  and 

DOUBLED   FOUR   INTO   ONE 

and  this  lap  at  the  front  end  has  a 
total  weight  of  37  pound3,or  12  ounces 
to  the  yard.  This  lap  in  turn  is  put  up 
at  the  finisher  picker  and  doubled  four 
into  one.  It  is  at  this  point  that  the 
cut  roving  waste  is  mixed  in  in  a  pro- 
portion of  three  laps  of  raw  stock  to 
one  lap  of  cut  roving.  The  total 
weight  of  lap  at  the  front  is  35 
pounds, or  12^^  ounces  to  the  yard.  The 
laps  are  then  put  up  at  the  card,  the 
draft  of  which  should  not  be  less  than 
120.  A  large  doffer  should  be  used;  the 
card  should  be  stripped  three  times  a 
day  and  ground  at  least  once  a  month. 
The  cylinder  speed  is  160  revolutions 
per  minute;  speed  of  licker-in,  300 
revolutions  per  minute.  The  top  ilats 
should  make  one  complete  revolution 
every  35  mintites.  The  production  of 
the  card  should  be  500  pounds  per 
week  of  60  houis,  the  weight  of  the 
sliver  being  50  grains  per  yard.  The 
sliver  (in  cans)  to  be  used  for  warp 
yarn  is  collected  and  passed  to  the 

SLIVER  LAP  MACHINE, 

or,  as  it  is  sometimes  called,  the  small 
doubler;  here  it  is  doubled  14  into  1 
and  made  into  a  lap.  This  sheet  of  lap 
weighs  395  grains  to  the  yard.  Six  of 
these  laps  are  put  up  at  the  ribbon  lap 
machine,  or,  as  it  is  sometimes  called, 
the  large  doubler.  These  are  doubled 
into  one  sheet  of  lap,  which  weighs 
260  grains  per  yard.  Six  of  these  laps 
.are  put  up  at  the  comber  and  m.ade 
into  a  sliver  weighing  45  grains  per 
yard.  The  speed  of  the  comber  should 
be  about  90  nips  per  minute.  1  he  ma- 
chine is  set  so  as  to  take  out  18  per 
cent  of  waste.  The  draft  of  this  ma- 
chine for  this  class  of  cotton  should 
be  about  27.50. 

This  sliver  is  then  put  through  two 
processes  of  drawing,  the  weight  of 
the  sliver  at  the  front  of  the  finisher 
drawing  being  70  grains  per  yard.  The 
speed  of  the  front  rolls  of  this  ma- 
chine is  350  revoltitions  per  minute. 
Either  metallic  or  leather  covered 
top  rolls  may  be  used.  The  sliver  is 
put  through  the  slubber  and  made  into 
.50  hank  roving.  This  roving  is  passed 
through 

TWO  PROCESSES  OF  FLY  FRAMES, 
the  hank  roving  at  each  being  as  fol- 
lows: At  first  intermediate, 1.50;  at  sec- 
ond   intermediate,   4.50.    This   is   then 


110 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY. 


takei  to  the  ring  spinning  room  and 
spun  into  20s  yarn,  using  a  frame  hav- 
ing a  spindle  gauge  of  2%  inches,  a 
2- inch  diameter  ring,  a  7-inch  length  of 
traverse,  a  spindle  speed  of  9,400  rev- 
olutions per  minute,  and  a  twist  per 
inch  of  21.24.  This  yarn  is  next  spooled, 
then  warped,  after  which  it  is  put 
through   the  slasher. 

The  weights  and  processes  used  for 

THE  FULLING  YARNS 


CASHMERE  TWILL. 

Cashmere  twill  is  a  light-weight, 
single  cloth,  weighing  from  2i/^  to  3 
oimces  per  yard,  finished  at  27  to  28 
inches  wide,  and  composed  of  about 
l-20s  cotton  warp,  and  l-16s  to  l-20s 
cotton  or  cotton  shoddy  filling. 

It  is  usually  woven  with  an  even  or 


are  difterent  from  the  above.     Starting  uneven  sided  twill  weave,  such  as     . — 
at  the  card,  the  draft  should  be  about  .                                                            ^ 
100;  the  flats  make  one  complete  rev-  or     —^  .  the  warp  being  all  black,  of 
olution   every   50   minutes;    the   sliver  dyed   yarn,  and    "the     pattern     being 
weighs  65  grains  per  yard.and  the  pro-  pointed    upon    the   face   of   the    goods 
duction  is  700  pounds  per  week.  Ihis  . 
is  then  put  through  three  processes  of  ^fter  the  weaving  operation, 
drawing,  the  weight'    of  the  sliver  at  THE  PATTERNS 
the  finisher  drawing  being  73   grains  ,,     „     .            a     ^a 
per   yard.     The   slubber  roving   is  .55  are   generally   small   effects,   produced 
hank.    This  is  put  through  two  proc-  by  printing  drabs  or  grays    upon    the 
esses  of  flj  frames,  the    hank    roving  black  ground  in     imitation     of     twist 
being  as  follows:  At  the  first  interme- 
diate 2.00  and  at  the  second    7.25  hank.  '_                                             £. 
This  roving  is  then  taken  to  either  the  ^ 
ring   spinning  or  the   mule  room  and  ■■■■■■■' 
spun  into  30s  yarn.     If  the  former,  use  ■■■■■"■■ 
a  frame  having  a  gauge  of  2%  inches;  «■■"■■■■ 
diameter   of  ring,   1%    inches;    length  SSbSSSK 
of  traverse.  6  Inches;   speed  of     spin-  weave 
<lles,  8,300     revolutions     per     minute;  DcnnonnB 
twist  per  inch,  19.17.  BSHanSaa 

DDDaBDOa 
DDDBDnDa 
DDBDGDCD 

auuaanaa 
mauaaaua 

Drawing-in  Draft 


Dyeing   Particulars. 


DDBinDBB 
DHOaBBO 
BBQDBBDa 
BDDBBaDB 
DDBBDCBB 
□BBDDBBa 
BBDDBBaD 
BDDMBDDB 


nnnBDnDB 

DDBaDDBa 
nBODDBDD 

BoaoBDaa 

Drawing-in  Draft 


Many  of  the  cheap  linings  are  dyed 
a  logwood  black.  By  some  people  log- 
wood black  is  asked  for,  because  the 
goods  gai:i  in  weight,  as  logwood 
feeds  the  goods,  adds  weight  and  sub- 
stance, and  all  artificial  blacks  reduce 
the  weight  of  the  cloth. 

The  logwood  bath  generally  used  is 
the  steam,  black.  First,  the  goods  are 
padded  in  a  solution  of  logwood  about 
5  degrees  Tw.,  dried  over  steam  cans, 
run  through  a  solution  of  bichromate 
of  soda  four  ounces  to  the  gallon,  and 
then  run  through  a  steam  box,  and 
afterwards  rinsed  well  in  water.  A 
one-dip  aniline  black  is  also  dyed  in 
some  cases,  and  the  oxidized  aniline 
salt  black  is  dyed  to  a  large  extent. 

The  new  sulphur  blacks  are  being 
gradually  introduced  and  may,in  time, 
supersede  all  other  blacks.  But  for 
most  purposes  the  black  obtained  by 
logwood  is  all  that  is  required. 

The  black  and  colored  prints  are 
printed  with  resist  colors,  and  after- 
wards padded  with  aniline  black,  and 
finished  with  calendered,  bettle  or 
schreiner  finish.  Most  finishes  are 
very  bright  and  glazed. 


DDBBnaBB 

BBDDBBDD 

Reed  Plan 


DOBBDOBB 

BBnOBBOD 

Reed  Plan 


yarn  effects,  the  whole  forming 
somewhat  the  appearance  of  a  fancy 
mixed  woolen  fabric. 

This  style  of  cloth  was  used  princi- 
pally in  the  manufacture  of  ladies'  fall 
novelty  suitings,  and  can  be  woven  on 
either  the  plain  roller  loom  or  a  me- 
dium weight  loom  having  dobby  or 
witch  attached. 

To  finish  this  fabric,  the  cloth  is  tak- 
en from  the  loom  and  run  through  the 
printing  machine  to  produce  the  pat- 
tern upon  the  face  of  the  fabric,  after 
which  the  goods  are  lightly  sized  and 
calendered. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

Reed,  700 — 30  inches  in  reed,  2  ends 
per  dent — 16  ends  selvedge  — r^  45  de- 
grees twill  weave;  l-20s  cotton  warp 
(black);     42  picks  l-16s  cotton  filling. 

1,166  ends  plus  16  equals  1,182  ends 
plus  5  per  cent  take-up  in  warp  in 
weaving  equals  1,227  yards  l-20s  cot- 
ton warp  equals  1.17  ounces;  42  picks 


A   COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY. 


Ill 


times  30  inches  equals  1,260  yards  l-16s 
cotton  filling  equals  1.5  ounces. 

1.17  ounces  warp  weight  plus  1.5 
ounces  filling  weight  equals  2.67  ounces 
per  yard. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  warp  yarn  used  in  the  manufac- 
ture of  cashmere  twills  may  be  made 
In  either  the  Srst  or  second  division  of 
mills  as  given  in  a  previous  lesson.  The 
filling  yarn  may  be  made  in  a  cotton 
null  or  in  a  woolen  mill.  For  this  ar- 
ticle we  will  consider  the  warp  and 
filling  5'arns  to  be  l-20s.  For  this 
count  of  yarn  a  medium  grade  of  cot- 
ton should  be  used.  A  bale  breaker 
woi;]d  not  be  used,  although  it  would 
improve  the  yarn.  The  mixing  would 
be  done  by  hand  and  as  large  a  mixing 
as  possible  would  be  made  at  one  time. 
By  doing  so  there  will  be  a  saving  time 
and  also  a  more  even  yarn  will  be  se- 
cured. The  bales  of  cotton  should  be 
sampled  and  mixed  in  the  manner  de- 
scribed in  a  previous  lesson. 

As  the  mixing  is  done  by  hand  it 
should  be  allowed  to  stand  as  long  as 
possible,  so  as  to  dry  out,  thus  making 
the  cotton 

EASIER  TO  HANDLE. 
It  is  at  this  point  that  the  good  waste 
from  the  machines  up  to  the  slubber 
is  used.  This  waste  should  be  pulled 
apart  as  much  as  possible  before  be- 
ing thrown  into  the  mixing  so  that  it 
will  not  work  around  the  pin  beater  of 
the  opener  as  it  is  apt  to  do  when  left 
coiled  up  The  cotton  is  put  through 
an  opener  and  two  processes  of  pick- 
ing. 

The  speed  of  the  beater  of  the  open- 
er should  be  about  1,700  revolutions 
per  minute.  The  hopper  should  al- 
ways be  kept  half  full  and  the  fly 
cleaned  cut  at  frequent  and  regular 
intervals.  The  speed  of  a  two-bladed 
rigid  type  beater  of  the  breaker  picker 
for  this  stock  should  be  about  1,500 
revolutions  per  minute.  The  total 
weight  at  the  front  is  40  pounds  or 
16  ounces  to  the  yard. 

THE  LAPS 
are  doubled  four  into  one  at  the  fin- 
isher picker,  and  it  is  at  this  point  that 
the  cut  roving  waste  laps  are  mixeri  in 
in  the  proportion  of  three  laps  of  raw 
stock  to  one  lap  of  cut  waste.  The 
speed  of  this  heater  (two  bladed  rigid 
typo'*  is  1,4.50  revolutions  per  mintite. 
This  will  give  the  cotton  passing 
throurh  the  machine  about  42  bents 
per  inch  of  cotton  fed.  The  total 
weight  of  the  lap  at  the  front  shotild 
De  39  pounds  or  14  ounces  to  the  yard. 


Take  good  care  of  your  machines  and 
keep  them  well  oiled,  cleaned,  and  set 
and  the  work  will  be  greatly  improved, 
both  as  to  appearance  and  production. 
The  lap  is  put  up  at  the  card  and  the 
draft  should  not  exceed  100.  The  flats 
should  make  one  complete  revolution 
every  45   minutes. 

THE  CARDS 
should  be  cleaned  at  least  twice  a  day 
and  the  fly  taken  from  underneath 
once  a  day.  The  stripe  v/aste  should  be 
gathered  four  times  a  day.  The  cards 
should  be  stripped  (doffers  and  cylin- 
ders) three  times  a  day  and  ground 
once  a  month,  except  in  the  case  of 
accidents,  when  they  should  be  ground 
until  the  wire  is  level  and  sharp.  Light 
grinding  should  always  be  used.  Use 
as  large  a  doffer  as  possible,  use  either 
one  having  a  26  or  27  inch  diameter. 
The  production  of  a  card  on  this  stoclv 
should  be  about  800  pounds  for  a  week 
of  60  hours.  The  card  sliver  is  then 
put  through 
THREE  PROCESSES  OF     DRAWING 

FRAMES. 
Metallic  rolls  may  be  used  to  great  ad- 
vantage on  this  grade  of  stock.  The 
sliver  at  the  front  of  the  finisher  draw- 
ing frame  should  weigh  about  70 
grains  to  the  yard.  The  slubber  draws 
this  sliver  into  .40  hank  roving.  It  is 
then  put  through  the  fly  frames.  The 
roving  for  warp  yarns  is  then  taken  to 
the  ring  spinning  room  and  the  rov- 
ing for  filling  may  be  taken  to  either 
the  ring  spinning  or  the  mule  room. 
For  this  class  of  goods  the  filling  yarn 
is  generally  ri^g  spun.  For  a  warp 
frame  spinning  20s  use  the  following 
particulars:  Gauge  of  frame,  2% 
inches;  diameter  of  ring,  2  inches; 
length  of  traverse,  7  inches;  twist  per 
inch,  21.24;  speed  of  spinile,  9,400  rev- 
olutions per  minute.  For  a  filling 
frame  use  a  frame  hnving  a  2^/4  inches 
gauge,  IV2  inches  diameter  ring,  GV2 
inches  length  of  traverse,  the  yam 
having  14.50  turns  per  in-^h.  and  the 
speed  of  the  spindles  is  7.300  revolu- 
tinns  per  minute.  The  warp  yarn  is 
then  spooled,  warped  and  put  through 
a  slasher. 


Dyeing  Particulars. 
BL.ACK  WARP. 
15  per  cent  snlnbur  bla'^k.  if  for  jet 
blp.ck,  immedi^l  N  N.  if  for  blue  black, 
iinmedi^l  N  B  ^^  per  rent  sorlium  sul- 
phide, 30  per  cent  Glnnher's.  3  per  cent 
soda  ash.  Dyed  in  a  \vrn  dyeing  ma- 
chine. After  the  poodf?  are  woven  and 
cleaned  with  a  good  soaping  and  rlns- 


]12 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY. 


ing,  they  are  pent  to  the  printer  and 
printed  with  different  patterns  and 
styles,  to  imitate  mixed  woolen  fab- 
rics, and  are  then  finished  and  made 
up  like  woolen  goods. 


BAYADERE  MADE  ENTIRELY 
OF  MERCERIZED  COTTON, 


In  a  previous  article  a  descrip- 
tion was  given  of  a  "bayadere" 
fabric,  in  which  the  materials  of 
which  it  was  constructed  were  cotton, 
worsted  and  silk  and  whose  foundation 
was  a  "rep"  weave. 


Fig.  1. 

It  is  now  intended  to  show  another 
"bayadere"  fabric,  but  which  is  com- 
posed entirely  of  mercerized  cotton 
and  whose  structure  is  based  upon  the 
plain  weave,  the  finished  width  36 
inches  and  the  weight  4%  ounces 
per  finished  yard. 

Such  a  fabric  is  shown  in  Fig.  1, 
which  is  a  very  good  illustration  of 
this  class  of  patterns,  whose  chief 
feature  is  the  zigzag  stripe  extending 
across  the  cloxh  in  the  direction  of 
the  weft. 

The  size  and  elaborate  effect  of  this 
patteni  make  it  resemble  a  jacquarrt 
effect,  but  it  can  i-i  fact  be  produced 
on  a  comparatively  low  number  of  har- 
nesses. 


Fig.  2  shows  the  full  design,  which 
is  complete  on  64  warp  threads  and  48 
picks. 

As  before  mentioned. the  plain  weave 
is  used  as  the 

BASIS  OF  THE  FULL  DESIGN, 

and  between  the  stripes  (ground)  all 
the  threads  are  interlaced  on  the  plain 
weave  and  form  a  single  cloth;  but 
the  stripes  themselves  (figure)  are 
formed  by  lowering  ail  the  fine  threads 
(marked  I  at  top  of  full  design,  Fig.  2) 
and  raising  all  the  coarse  threads 
(marked  .  )  to  the  surface  of  the  cloth 
and  thus  forming  a  double  cloth,  with 
each  of  the  two  single  cloths  thus 
formed  interlaced  with  the  plain 
weave,  throughout  the  stripe  or  baya- 
dere. 

Fig.  3  illustrates  the  drawing-in 
draft,  which  requires  IS  shafts,  10  for 
the  ground  and  8  for  the  figure  threads. 

Fig  4  shows  the  reeding  pan. 

The  material  and  arrangement  of 
the  threads  are  as  follows: 

Warp:  6  threads  2-40s  blue  mercer- 
ized cotton  (one  in  a  heddle),  four 
threads  2-20s  black  mercerized  cotton 
(two  in  a  heddle) ;  total,  10  threads 
in  one  repeat  of  pattern. 

950  reed — oSVo  inches  wide  to  finish 
3G  inches,  40  picks  per  inch. 

Filling:  6  picks  2-40s  blue  mercer- 
ized cotton  (single), 2  picks  2-20s  black 
mercerized  cotton  (double) ;  total,  8 
picks  in  one  repeat  of  pattern. 

Fig.  5  shows  the  chain  draft  re- 
quired. The  back  picks  must  positive- 
ly come  on  the  bars  marked. 

It  y^Ul  be  noted  that  the  black  2-203 
cotton  used  in  the  warp  is  introduced 
2  threads  in  one  heddle,  and  in  the 
weft  the  same  yarn  is  wound  double, 
or  two  threads  on  a  bobbin,  which  is 
done  for  the  following  reason:  In  many 
cloths  from  which  this  particular  pat- 
tern was  derived  the  black  cotton 
used  was  very  much  heavier,  that  is, 
about  2-1  Os  or  2-12s,  with  one  thread 
introduced  in  one  heddle,  instead  of 
two  threads,  which  made  the  fabric 
appear  very  coarse  and  open  in  tex- 
ture; therefore,  by  using  two  threads 
of  2-20s  the  same  weight  of  3'arn  is 
employed,  but  being  finer  and  the  two 
threads  lying  side  by  side,  the  cloth 
is  given  a  much  finer  and  closer  tex- 
ture. 

COLORS. 

In  cloths  of  this  description  the  bay- 
adere stripe  is  generally  black,  which 
gives  very  great  freedom  in  the  choice 
of  colors  for  the  ground,  as  any  good 
color  may  be  combined  with  black, 
■without  any  danger  of  the  other  suf- 


A  COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY. 


113 


Fig.  2. 


^□□Dnn«nnnnnnanang 
aDaaaaDBDDDaDDDaDa 
aDDaDaaaDaDaaDBDDD 
DanDDDDaanGnnDDBDa 
DDnanaanaaDDDDBDDD 
DDaaQDaanDDDDDDBGa 
DDaQDaaaDDaGDDBauD 
naaaDaaaaaDDDDDBDa 
DaaDBaaaQQLjnDDDDDa 
aaaaauaaa DDnuDDunn 
DaaaQGaaD  DDDBDnDDQ 

DDnnnDDDODCDCBGDGa 
DnDDODGDGCnnBGGQGa 
DanDnDDDDGCaDBGGGa 

nnnnDDDDaoGnBDDGDG 
nncDDGnnDGDcaiiDnGG 
aGBGanDanDGQGGGaGa 
QaaHGDnGGaGacGaaGG 
DGaaaGDaaaHGOGaGQa 
DDaaaaacaDQBDGGGGn 
DaaDGGGGCnBGnnaGoa 
DaaaGDGGu nGBDGDGaa 
DDnGG^naG  GBQcaaaaa 
DnaaGnGnG  GGBoaaGna 

BGGDGGaG laGGnGDaGG 

GBGnanGanaGDnQGaaa 
DGGnGD  nBGGgoDGC aa 
nGGQGGnnaBGGDGGaaa 
DGGgGaDnBaDGnQaQGa 
oaGGGGnaaBGGoaGQGa 

DGGGGGaDBOGODGOGDn 

GGagaaaaQBGaacGGan 
BGGgGGGnaaoGnpGGGa 
DHGgGnannoGDDaaDGa 
DaGGQnGDGaBGGGaaaa 
DGGgGDaaanGBDGGGGn 

DGGaaaGGGCBGaGGGDn 

DDaDGGnarnGBannGGD 
□nagajnrjDnBQnnGaaa 
DD  jaaGnaanGBnaaGDa 
DDBGaaGaaaDGGGaar  n 
DG jB  JDaanDDDDDOGaa 
DDDgaanGaaanBGnDGn 
DaDgaannaGDDDBnGDn 
DDogG  inaaaGDBGnaan 
GGGGaaGmaGGGBnGnn 
aQGgGaaaaGGDBCDaGG 

DGGGGaaaGnGaGBGGGG 

DaaaBGGGGnGaGGQaGn 
naaGGBnGGnnanGGGGn 
aGGGGGnaGGDa  GBOOn 
aaGGaaaaanaGaaaBaa 
nGaaaaDGaDQGQa»oan 
DGgGGnDnannaGGGBOn 
DGaGGGaGnnaGGCBPan 
naaaannnGnGnnDGBGn 
nnDGGnBGaaDciarGnGn 
naGananBnaDDGGaGGG 
DaGGaannnnnGnGnGBG 
GGGaannnnaGGGDGGDB 
DGGGGGnanaaDGGaaBa 
□"^DananaDGGGGGannB 
DDGGGGnnaannnDDnBn 
DaaaaDDDDaDDGDDnDB 


!3t. 


(^   2P 


DB 
■D 
DB 

□a 


Chain  Draft. 

nGGBaBGBGGGBaBGBOB  — 

DGBGBGSGGGiiGBaBGBG  — 

OBGBGBGBGBGBGSGBBB 

BGMaBGBGBGBCaGBGBB 

□BGBGBGBGBGBGBGBBB 

BGBGBDBGBDBGBGBGBB 

DBGBGBDBaBGBGBGIBB 

aGaGBGBGICBGBGaCBB 

DBaBaBGG  DDGBG»CBDB  — 

BaBD^aaGGGBDBrBGBG  — 

DBGBGBGBGBDBGBBBBB 

BriBaaGaGBOBGBGIBBB 

DBGBGBGBGBGBGBBBBB 

BGBGBGBGBDaCBCBKIB 

DBGBJBGBGBDBGBBBkB 

BGBGBGBGBCBGBCBBBM 

OBGBGGGGaGDBDBGBCB  — 

BGBGGGaaaOBGBGBCBG  — 

DBGBGBGBGBGBBBBBBB 

BGBGBGBGB  DBGBBBBBB 

GBGBGBGBGBGBBBBBBB 

BGBGBGBGBGBCBBBBBB 

DBJBJBJBGBCBBBBBBB 

BGBGBGBGBCBCBBBBBB 

GBGGGGGGnBLBCBCBGB  — 

BGGGGGGGBCBDBCBGBG  — 

GBGBGBGBGBBBBBBBGB 

BGBJBGBIBGBBBBBBBG 

OBGBGB  1BCBBBBBIBGB 

BGflGBGBGiGBBBBBBBQ 

L  bgbgbgb3bbbbbbblb 

BGaGBGBGBGBBBBBBBD 

nGGGGGGBaBDBCBCBCB  — 

DGGGGGBGBOBDBCBGBa  — 

DBGBGBGBGBBBBBGBGB 

BGBGBOaaBGBBBBBDBa 

DBGBGBnBGBBBBBCBaB 

BGBGBGBaBGBBBBBGBa 

DBGBGBGBGBBBBBGBGB 

BGBGBGBGBGBBBBBGBn 

DGGGGBGB  G  BCBCBDBCB  — 

DGGGBDBGanBCBGBaBn  — 

aBGBGBGBGBBBDBGBCB 

B  BGBGBGBGBBBoaCBG 

DBGBGBGBGBBBCBGBGB 

BGBGBGBGBGBBBGBGBG 

aaGBGBDaaBBBrarBGB 

BGBGBGBGBGBBBGKGBa 

Fie.  5. 


114 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


fering  by  being  placed     in    juxtaposi- 
tion. 

THE  REQUIRED  LOOM. 

In  selecting  the  kind  of  loom  for 
weaving  the  above  cloth,  almost  any 
make  of  loom  can  bo  used  which  will 
carry  20  shafts  and  have  ihe  capacity 
of  carrying  at  least  2  shuttles. 

FINISH. 
A  dry  finish  only  is  required  for 
this  fabric  and  the  process  is  as  fol- 
lows: After  being  burled  and  mended 
the  cloth  is  brushed  and  steamed  and 
then  pressed  so  as  to  give  as  much  lus- 
tre as  possible.  After  being  rolled,  the 
cloth  is  then  ready  for  shipment. 


ORANGE. 

2  per  cent  tetrazo  orange  TR,  30  per 
Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 
SLATE. 

1/^  per  cent  diamine  black  B  H,  % 
per  cent  oxydiamine  black  A,  30  per 
cent  Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 


PIQUE. 


Pique  is  a  heavy  cotton  material 
woven  in  corded  or  figured  effects.  The 
goods  are  used  for  such  purposes    as 


Dyeing  Particulars. 

PURPLE, 
On  a  tannine  and  tartar  emetic  mor- 
dant, dye  in  fresh  bath,  1     per     cent 
methylviolet   3R. 

On  tannine  mordanted  yarn  dye 
with  Vi  per  cent  rhodamine  5G,  which 
dyes  a  pink;  for  a  rose  use  2  per  cent 
color. 

SCARLET. 

3  per  cent  diamine  scarlet,  30  per 
cent  Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 

CHINA  BLUE. 
On  tannine  mordanted  yarn  dye  1  per 
cent  new  methylene  blue  GG. 

SKY   BLUE. 

3  per  cent  diamine  skj'  blue,  30  per 
cent  Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 

NAVY  BLUE. 

4  per  cent  diamine  black  B  H,  30  per 
cent  Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 

TURQUOISE  BLUE. 
On    a   tannine  mordant  dye  1%    per 
cent  turquoise  blue  G. 

EMERALD  GREEN. 
On  a  tannine  mordant  dye  2  per  cent 
emerald  green  cryst. 

LIGHT   BROWN. 
V2  per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow  B,  1 
per  ce^t  diamine  brown  B,  20  per  cent 
Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 
BROWN. 
2  per  cent  tetrazo   brown   R,   1  per 
cent  tetrazo  brown  G  G,  3P  per    cent 
Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 
RED. 
4  per  cent  benzo  fast  red  4  B  S,  30 
per  cent  Gauher's,  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 
HELIOTROPE. 
2  per  cent  tetrazo  lilac  R,  30  per  cent 
Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 


msammamsiamma 

CDBDnBDDBnDB 

■nDBDDBnaBna 
■aaasaaDBBsa 
DDaDDaDDaDaa 
aanaanaanaDn 
asaaaaaisaaaa 
□naaaaDDaDDa 
anDannaDaaaa 
Fig.   2. 

ladies'  so-called  tailor-made  suits.vest- 
ings,  shirt  fronts,  cravats,  bedspreads 
and  the  like. 

The  plainest  and  most  common  fab- 
rics of  pique  are  those  in  which  the 
pattern  consists  of  straight  cords  ex- 
tending across  the  cloth  in  the  direc- 
tion of  the  weft.    In 

THE  CONSTRUCTION 

of  these  fabrics  both  a  face  and  a 
back  warp  are  required  and  the 
cords  are  produced  by  all  the  back 
w?rp  threads  being  raised  at  in- 
tervals of  6,  8,  etc.,  picks  over  two  or 
more  picks  of  the  face  cloth, which  has 
a  tendency  to  draw  down  on  the  sur- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


115 


face  of  the  fabric.  The  goods  are  al- 
ways woven  white  and  no  colors  are 
ever  used. 

The  face  warp  threads  are  generally 
finer  than  the  back  warp  threads  and 
are  in  the  proportion  of  two  threads 
for  the  face  and  one  thread  for  the 
back. 


cloths,   as  illustrated  by   the   diagram 
Fig.  3.     See  dots  o. 

In  the  lightest  and  cheapest  grades, 
neither  any  wadding  nor  back .  picks 
are  used.  In  this  case  the  back  warp 
threads  float  on  the  back  of  the  fabric, 
except  when  raisingover  the  face  picks 
to  form  the  cord. 


Design. 

GaBaaaafflBDnaaDaanaDDannaoaaanannaDnBaDaDDBDnaDnaanBDaB 
BaaaaaaaBaaaBaBBDaaDaaaBaaaaaBaaaaDaaaaaDBBaaBDBaDaaDB 
BaaBaaBaaBSjanaaaaaaDaaaBaaaaDBDnBDaaaoBaDaDDaDDBDDBDa 
BGaaaaajBB£aBaaB>BaaDaBSBBaaBfflBaDBasaajaasaBDaBSBaDBasB 
aaBaaaaaaaaBafflBanBnaaaDBDnBaDBDDBDDBDnanDBDDBDnBDGBnDB 
BaaaGBaaaaaaBGaBaaflDaaGBaaaaGaaaaaDaaaBaDBBaBaaaBaBaaB 

BGaBGGBGaBfflaBGGBaGBGGBGaanGUGGaGGBaGBaGBaGBGaBGaBaDBaa 

B^BaGBasBBGaasBanaa^BBGBB'ijaBGBBfflBBaBBffiBaGBasaaGBaffiaaaB 

GGaaaa  jGBGaaafflaGGBGfflBGGBGGBGGBaGBGtJaGGaGGBGGBDCBGDBGGa 
aGBBGBBGBBGBBaBBGBaGBaGBBGBBGaaGaBGBBGaBGaBGBBGBBGaBaa 
BGGBaGaaGBGGBGGBfflGBaGBfflaBGGBGGaaGaGGBGGBGaBDQBGGBQGBCO 
BGaaaaBiaaSBBGBBiSBBGBB'SaBGBBffiBaGBBaBBGBBffiBBGaBffiBBDaBffiD 
DaBGGBGaBGaBGaaGaBGfflBGGBGSBGGaGaBGGBGQBGGaaGBaaBQGaaaB 
BGBflGBBGBBGBBGBBGBBGBBGBBGBBGBBGBBGBBGBBGBBGBBGBBGBBGB 
BGGBGaBGaBGGBGaBaaBGGBSaBGaBfflGBGQBaaBGaBQaBaaBaGBQGBaa 
BSBBGBaSBBGBB^aBGBBSBBGBBSBBGBBSBBGBBSBBGBa^BaaaB^BBGB 

aGBGaaaGaGGaGGaGGaaaaGaaGaaGGaaGaaaBaGBDaBaaBaaaafflBaaB 

BGaBGBBGBBGBBGBBQBBaBBGBBGBBGBBGBBGBaGBBOBBGBBGBBGBBGB 
BGaBGaBGGBJGBGGBGaBGQBGaBGDBaGBaGBaaBaaBaaBQGBfflaBaQBSa 
BGBBSBflGBBffiBBGBBSBBGBBSBflGBBffiBBGBBffiBaGBBSBBGBBiBBGBBia 

aGaGGaaaaGGBGaBGGBaGaGGiGaaaGBGaaDGBaaBaaBafflBa^BafflBQnB 

BGaaGaaGBB  BBGBBGaBGaBGBaGaaGBBGBBGBBGBBGBaGBBGBBGBBGB 
BaGBGGBOGBGaaGaBGGBGGBGGBaGBGaBGaBaaBGaBfflaBGaBfflaBaSBDa 
BSBBGBBSBB  BB^BBGBBSBBGBBffiBBGBBfflBBGBB^BBGBB^BBGBBaBBGB 
GGBajBGGBGnBGaBGGBGaBGaBaGBGDBGGBnaBaiBaaBQiBaaBaaBQGB 
BaBB-JBBGBBOBBaBBDBBaBBDBBDBBDBBaBaaaBOBBnaBDBBQBBDBBnS 

BnaBaDBaDBanBnnBDnBDnBDnBaDBnDBnDBfflnBnaafflDBnaBDDBmBan 

BDBBeBBOBB'SBBGaBaBBDBB^BBOaBfflBBDBBSBBaaBfflaBaBBfflBBaBBEBB 

manna jnBaaaaaannanDannaDDBnnaasanBBDffiBDDBnDBD^BDDBanB 
BGaaaaaDBaaaBaBaDBaaBaDaaaBBDBBDBBnaaDBBaSBaBBGBBaBBaa 
BaaaaaBaaaQDaaDaaoaDDannannaGaanDafflnaGOBDDBanBDDBDDBDa 
Fig.  4. 


In  the  diagram  Fig.  1,  which  is  a 
sectional  cut  of  a  fabric  woven  with 
the  design  Fig.  2,  the  heavy  black  lines 
represent  the  back  warp  threads,  and 
it  vill  be  noticed  that  they  are  raised 
over  two  of  the  face  picks,  represented 
by  the  small  dots   (.). 

The  heavy  dots  (.)  represent  the 
back  picks,   which   interlace   with  the 


FIGURED  PIQUE. 

In  the  figured  pique  the  binding  of 
the  back  warp  threads  into  the  face 
cloth  is  not  done  in  straight  lines  as  in 
the  plain  pique,  but  the  binding  points 
are  introduced  so  as  to  form  figures. 

These  fabrics  are  woven  in  the  white 
and  the  figures  are  purely  the  result 
of  binding  the  face  and  back  cloths 


Drawing-in-Draft. 

□DGaaGanaGGGaaGaaaaaGGaGaaaGaaGGGaaoaGnGGnaanaaaDGGQaD 
DaGaGaGGaGDaaGGaGaaaGaaQGaaaGGGaaGGaaDDGaGaaGGunGBDDca 
DaaGGjaaDaaGGaaGGaaaaaaGaGauGGaGaaGGaGuGaGDQaaaDDGDQGG 
nGaaGaGaaGDGaGGGaGaGGGaaGGaGGGGGaGGDGGaGGGaaaGaaGajGaa 
naGaGaaaajGGGaGGGaGaaGGGaGGGaGGaGaGaGGaGBGGGaaaaGGGGGD 
DaGGaGDGGGGnGGGaaa  ^aGaGaGGaGaaanaaGGaaGGaaGGGaQnGGaaaD 
DGGaGGaGaGGGGGaGOGaGaGaaaaGGQaaQQGBGaGGaaGaaGGDGGGaGnG 

OaaaaaGGaGGGGJGaDGGGGGGGaGGGGaaaaCGCGGaGGGGaaGQGGGQGGG 
naGGGGaGaGaGGGanGGaGGGaGGGGGaGGGGGGGGGGQaaQaaGGGGGaGGa 
DaGGaaGGGaGGGGGDGG  GGQaGGBGGGGGaaGGGGGaGGGGGaaaaGGGGDD 

nGGaaGGaGaGaGCGauGCiaGDBGaaGQaaGaGGGGGGDaaGaaaGGQGGGQGa 
DGGGGaGGaGaaGGCJGaaGaGGaGGaGaaGGaaanaaaGGGGGGGaGGGGaaGn 
oaaGaaaGGaGaaGGGBaGGnGaGGaGGGGaaaGGGaaGGaaaaGGGGGaGGaa 
DGGaaGGGGaaaGBGGGaGaaGGaGGaaGGGaGaaGGGaaoaGGaaaGGGaaGG 
DGaGGaaGGaaGGaaaaGaaaGaGaaGnGaDGQGGGGGGaoaGGaGGaaaaaGa 
DGGGGaaaGGaaaDGaGaGaGGGaGaGGGGaGGaGGGGGGaaGGGGGCGGaaaa 

OGGGBGGGaaGGaGaGGGGaGDGaGGGaaGGGaGGGGGaGaaDaGGGGGaaGDa 

aBaGGaGaGaoaGGaGGGGaaGaaaaaanaGaaGDaGGaGaGGGaaaaGaGGna 

aaaaDBaGGaaBGaGGCBGGGGaBaaGGGBGaGGGBaGaGDBGGGaaBaGGGGB 
naaBDaaaQBQGaaGBGGGGGBGGGGGBGGGGGBGGGaaBGGGGGBGGGGGBGa 

GaBnaaGaBGaaGGBanGGaBGGaaGBGGGGGBDGaaaBaaGGGBGGGaaBaGa 
BaaaaaBaDDaaBnGaaaBaGGGGBGGaQGBGGGnaBaaaGGBaaaaaBGGaQa 

Reeding  Plan. 

GGGBBBGGGBBBGGGBBBGnGBBBGaGBBBGGGBBBGDGBBBGGGBBBGGGBBfl 
BBBGGGBBBGGGaaBGGGBBBGGGBBBGGGBBBGGGaBBDGaBBBaaGBBBDGa 

Fig.  5. 


back  warp  threads  only.  The  fine  lines 
represent  the  face  warp  threads. 

In  the  heavier  and  better  grades  of 
pique,  heavy  or  coarse  picks,  called 
wadding,  are  u.sed  to  increase  the 
■weight  and  also  to  give  more  promi- 
nence to  the  cord  effect.  They  are  in- 
troduced  between   the   face   and   back 


together.  As  a  result  of  this  method 
of  binding,  the  cloth  is  characterized 
by  the  embossed  appearance  of  the 
figures.  In  the  best  grades  heavy 
wadding  picks  are  used  and  these  tend 
to  greatly  heighten  the  raised  effect 
of  the  figures.  The  effect  produced  ia 
about  the  same  as     when     two     light 


116 


A  COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY. 


cloths  are  laid  together  with  wadding 
between  and  then  stitched  together  on 
a  sewing  machine,  the  stitching  being 
in  the  form  of  figures. 

White  Marseilles  bedspreads  are  the 
highest  and  most  elaborate  form  of 
piques,  and  in  these  the  pattern  covers 
the  entire  spread.  Geometrical  figures, 
birds,  foliage  and  most  every  conceiv- 
able manner  of  form  are  used,  and  all 
being  embossed,  the  ultimate  effect  is 
very  fine.  In  the  example  which  we 
shall  take,  a  small  figure  pique  is 
given,  with  the  following  for  the 

ANALYSIS  OF  THE  FABRIC: 
Width  of  warp  in  reed  (w^ithout  sel- 
vedge), 38  inches;  width  of  fabric  fin- 
ished, 36  inches;  ends  per    inch,  100; 
ends  in  warp,  3,600—1,200x3  reed. 
Take-up  of  warp  during  weaving,  8 

Chain  Draft. 


DBnBfflafflaDDncaDDDDnnanD 
■■■■DgnaDDGDaacDDnDDaa- 

■■■■gfflDffiDfflDfflDftafflafflDffinffi 
QBa»aaffla(BGDaDnnaDDnDDn 
■■■■DaDDDDDDDnnnnaDDDa— 
■nBggqnfflnfflnaDnnDDCDDDn 

■■■■fflafflDfflDffiDfflDfflDffiDfflnffln 

nBnBDnaDfflDfflDnnDDnnDDnn 
■■■■nnnnaDDnnDDnDnDDDD— 
■DjicDDnDsafflDDDanDnaDn 
■■■■n«nfflnianmnmn£Dnmri^r=iy 


c   ■■■■^uu'  JuuuuuanncnnnDn 
5   ■nannnDnnaaffla^DDnnnnDD— 

U     ■■■■anffln'BnssnsHnmnmlHmKym 

P:,    Qmat 


iHSSHUuuLJunaaDDDnDDnna 
-■□■naDnnaau:3nDDDDanfflDB— 

■■■■DfflnfflDfflnFBnmnmnmnSHs^ 


ama 


r«nnnnoDnnrif]orinnnnnn 
\gog<2aaaaaaaadawinaa 

■nffln>?n®n(Sninnmnm^=^yRm 


.■QBDaaanaaana  fflOfflDDDDaa— 
Fig.  6. 

per  cent;  weight  of  fabric,  per  yard, 
from  loom,  9%  ounces;  shrinkage  of 
fabric  in  length  during  finishing,  2  per 
cent;      finished       weight      9     ounces. 

Dressing:  3  threads  in  pattern.  One 
thread  l-30s  white  carded  peeler 
cotton;  1  thread,  2-30s  white  carded 
peeler  cotton;  1  thread,  l-30s  white 
carded  peeler  cotton;  equals  3. 

Filling:  4  picks  repeat  of  pattern, 
168  picks  per  inch.  One  pick,  l-30s 
white  carded  peeler  cotton;  1 
pick  l-9s  white  carded  peeler 
cotton;  2  picks,  l-30s  white  carded 
peeler  cotton;   equals  4. 

In  Fig.  4  is  shown  the  full  design. 

Fig.  5  illustrates  the  drawing-in 
draft  on  22  harnesses — 4  required  for 
the  face  warp  threads  and  18  for  the 
back  warp  threads.  The  reeding  plan 
is  also  given. 

Fig.  6  is  the  required  chain  draft. 

LOOM  REQUIRED. 
For  the  plain  pique    a    dobby    loom 


having  drop  boxes  and  from  4  to  16 
shafts  only  is  required,  but  for  the  fig- 
ured pique  a  loom  of  more  intricate 
construction  is  required  and  the 
Crompton  &  Kiiowles  Loom  Company 
build  a  loom  especially  adapted  for 
the  purpose.  Their  jacquard  machine, 
which  is  of  the  rise  and  drop  type,  is 
especially  adapted  for  the  weaving  of 
Marseilles  quilts,  and  has  features  that 
dispense  with  the  so-called  "plain 
card,"  using  only  the  figure  card. 

FINISHING. 

These  fabrics,  after  being  scoured 
and  bleached,  ai'e  hot  pressed,  rolled  or 
folded,  and  are  then  ready  for  ship- 
ment. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Pique  is  made  up  in  various  ways 
and  is  constructed  of  yarns,  the  count 
of  which  varies  from  very  coarse  to 
very  fine.  The  fabric  which  is  describ- 
ed is  considered  as  being  made  up  of 
l-30s  and  2-30s  in  the  warp  and  l-30s 
and  l-9s  in  the  filling.  For  making  this 
grade  of  cloth  the  machinery  found  in 
the  second  division  of  mills  would  be 
used. 

THE  COTTON  USED 

would  be  a  good  grade  of  "peeler,"  of 
about  1  5-16th  inches  staple.  This 
cotton  would  be  brought  from  the 
storehouse  and  each  bale  sampled;  all 
those  bales  not  up  to  sample  should 
be  laid  one  side.  The  bales  of  the 
same  length  of  staple  should  be  opened 
and  fed  to  the  bale  breaker  alternately 
from  each  bale  in  small  lots  at  a  time. 
From  the  bale  breaker  the  cotton  is 
carried  to  the  bins  by  lattice  work  or 
by  trunking  and  a  blower  and  fan.  The 
mixing  should  be  allowed  to  stand  in 
the  bins  as  long  as  possible  before  be- 
ing used,  so  that  the  cotton  will  be  " 
free  from  moisture.  It  is  at  this  point 
that  the 

GOOD  WASTE 

from  the  machines  up  to  the  slub- 
ber  is  mixed  in,  the  sliver  being 
torn  into  short  lengths  before  being 
thrown  into  the  mixing.  The  raw 
stock  is  put  through  an  opener  and 
either  two  or  three  processes  of  pick- 
ing. If  three  processes  of  picking  are 
used  for  the  intermediate  picker  the 
same  particulars  are  followed  as  in  the 
case  of  the  finisher  except  where  not- 
ed. 

The  hopper  of  the  opener  should  be 
always  kept  more  than  half  full  of  raw 
stock,  so  as  to  feed  an  even  sheet  of 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


117 


cotton  to  the  breaker  picker.  The 
speed  of  a  porcupine  beater  of  this  ma- 
chine should  be  about  1,050  revolutions 
per  minute.  The  speed  of  a  two-bladed 
rigid  type  beater  for  the  breaker  pick- 
er should  be  1.500  revolutions  per 
minute,  the  fan  speed  being  1,400  rev- 
olutions per  minute.  The  total  weight 
of  the  lap  at  the  front  should  be  40 
pounds,  or  a  16-ounce  lap.  If  an  inter- 
mediate picker  is  used,  the  laps  are 
doubled  four  into  one  and  the 

TOTAL  WEIGHT  OF  THE  LAP 

at  the  front  should  be  37  pounds,  or 
a  13-ounce  lap.  These  laps  are  put  up 
at  the  finisher  picker  and  doubled  four 
into  one.  At  this  point  the  cut  rov- 
ing waste  is  mixed  in,  in  the  propor- 
tion of  one  lap  of  waste  to  three  laps 
of  raw  stock.  The  speed  of  the  beater 
should  be  about  1,450  revolutions  per 
minute,  which  gives  tne  cotton  passing 
through  the  machine  about  42  beats  or 
blows  per  inch.  The  total  weight  of 
the  lap  at  the  front  should  be  35 
pounds,  or  a  12i^-ounce  lap.  Look  out 
for  your  fan  drafts  to  see  that  they 
are  properly  regulated  so  as  to  obtain 
an  even  lap.  The  laps  are  then  put 
up  at  the  card. 

THE  CARD 

should  have  a  draft  of  not  more  than 
100.  The  count  of  wire  fillet  used 
should  be  medium,  the  wire  for  the 
tops  and  doffer  being  one  number  finer 
than  for  the  cylinder.  The  card  should 
be  ground  at  least  once  a  month  and 
should  be  stripped  three  times  a  day. 
The  flats  should  make  one  complete 
revolution  every  50  minutes.  Use  a 
large  doffer,  either  26  or  27  inches  in 
diameter.  The  weight  of  the  sliver 
should  be  65  grains  per  yard,  the  pro- 
duction for  a  week  of  60  hours  being 
750  pounds.  The  sliver  is  put  through 
three  processes  of  drawing  frames,  the 
speed  of  the  front  roll  being  350  revo- 
lutions per  minute.  The  doublings  are 
6  into  1.  The  draft  of  the  first  inter- 
mediate is  about  5.5.  the  second  5.75, 
and  the  third  5.75;  the  sliver  weigh- 
ing at  the  front  of  the  finisher  about 
72  grains  per  yard.  The  sliver  is  then 
put  up  at  the  slubber  and  made  into  .50 
hank  roving.  This  roving  is  then  put 
through 

TWO  PROCESSES  OF  FLY  FRAMES, 

Hhe  hank  roving  at  the  first  interme- 
diate being  2.00  and  at  the  second  be- 
ing 7.50.  This  makes  all  the  roving  for 
this  cloth,  except  for  the  9s.  This  is 
made  from  a  2.00  hank  roving.  The 
roving  for  warp  yarns  is  taken  to  the 


spinning  room  and  made  into  30s  yarn. 
From  here  it  is  spooled  and  part  of  it 
twisted  into  2-30s  yarn,  after  which  it 
is  warped  and  slashed.  The  filling 
yarn  may  either  be  mule  or  ring  spun. 
We  will  consider  this  yarn  to  be  ring 
spun.  The  particulars  to  use  for  No. 
30s  would  be  as  follows:  Gauge  of 
frame,  2%  inches;  diameter  of  ring,l% 
inches;  length  of  traverse,  6  inches; 
speed  of  spindle,  8,300  revolutions  per 
minute;  to  spin  9s  use  1%-inch  di- 
ameter ring,  7-inch  traverse,  and  a 
spindle  speed  of  6,200  revolutions  per 
minute.  Part  of  the  30s  yarn  is  twisted 
into  2-30s. 


Dyeing  Particulars. 
PEARL. 
Dye  in  the  jigger  dyeing  machine 
with  15  gallons  liquor,  50  pounds 
weight  of  goods,175  degrees  F.,one-half 
pound  of  soda  ash,  one-half  pound  sul- 
phide sodium,  1  pound  common  salt,  3 
ounces  immedial  black  V  ex.,  1  ounce 
immedial  brown  B.  Run  the  goods  for 
40  minutes;  add  in  two  portions  the 
dyestuffs;  rinse  and  aftertreat  with  V2 
per  cent  bichromate  potash,  %  per 
cent  sulphate  copper,  at  170  degrees 
F.,  and  rinse  well.  Give  a  weak  soap- 
ing if  required. 

CREAM.    . 

Dye  with  the  same  proportions  as  for 
pearl,  and  in  the  same  way,  with  one- 
half  ounce  immedial  yellow  D,  one 
ounce  immedial  cutch  G. 

BUFF. 

Dye  with  same  proportions  as  pearl, 
with  6  ounces  immedial  bronze  A. 

LIGHT  SLATE. 

Dye  with  same  proportions  as  pearl, 
6  ounces  immedial  black  V. 

•      DRAB. 

As  light  slate;  2  ounces  immedial 
black  V;  6  ounces  immedial  bronze  A. 

LIGHT  BROWN. 

On  the  jigger,as  pearl;  3  per  cent  im- 
medial cutch  G,  3  per  cent  sodium  sul- 
phide, 3  per  cent  soda  ash,  15  per  cent 
common  salt. 

LIGHT  OLIVE  DRAB. 

Dye  as  pearl;  one-half  pound  pyro- 
gene  yellow  M;  14  ounces  pyrogene 
olive  N;  4  ounces  pyrogene  cutch  2G; 
aftertreat  as  pearl. 


118 


A  COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY. 


MADRAS  GINGHAM. 


Madras  gingham  is  distinctly  a  shirt- 
ing fabric  and  is  an  article  of  fine  qual- 
ity. Zephyr  gingham  is  a  dress  ging- 
ham and  is  lighter  and  of  softer  finish 
than  the  madras  gingham. 

Madras  gingham  is  distinguished 
from  the  common  gingham  by  the  fine- 
ness of  the  texture  and  the  richness  of 
the  patterns  employed.  In  the  com- 
mon giagham  the  plain  weave  is  chiefly 
used  and  the  patterns  consist  only  of 
stripes  and  checks  formed  by  contrast- 
ing colors — principally  white  with 
some  other  color — and  is  chiefly  made 
on  roller  looms. 

The    Fabric. 


,f.  '1'    .-?.  "     '  '  .        "4? 

-I 

Fig.  1. 

In  the  madras  ginghams 

VARIOUS  WEAVES  ARE  USED 
in  combination  with  the  plain  weave 
which  is  always  used  for  the  ground, 
while  very  often  leno  weaves  are  in- 
troduced for  ornamentation. 

The  number  of  colors  used  in  con- 
junction with  white  often  reaches  as 
high  as  five  and  six  in  a  single  pattern, 
while  printed  yams  are  extensively 
used  with  fine  effect. 

Fig.  1  is  a  very  neat  illustration  of  a 
madras  gingham  in  a  leno  stripe  effect. 
The  chief  features  of  this  pattern  are 
the  leno  diamond  stripe  on  a  back- 
ground of  old  rose,  and  the  heavy  cords 
of  white  and  of  tan.  The  blue  stripe 
between  the  white  cords  is  also  a 
prominent  feature. 

ANALYSIS  OF  THE  FABRIC. 

Width  of  warp  in  reed  (selvedge  in- 
cluded), 29%  inches;  width  of  fabric, 
finished,  28  inches;    size  of     reed     re- 


quired, 1,600 — ends  per  dent,  2  and  3; 
ends  in  warp,  2,616. 

Take-up  of  warp  during  weaving  as 
follows:  l-50s  plain  weave,  1%  per 
cent;  3-50s  cords,  0  per  cent;  3-50s  leno 
whip   threads,   50   per   cent. 

Number  of  beams  required,  3  (on 
account  of  the  various  take-ups). 
Weight  of  fabric  per  yard  from  loom, 
1%  ounces. 

Shrinkage  of  fabric  in  length  during 
finishing,  2  per  cent.  Finished  weight, 
1.92  ounces. 

Pattern  for  beaming: 

136  threads  per  pattern. 

19  repeats  of  pattern  in  warp. 

X  4  threads  l-50s  white  cotton. 

0  1   thread  3-50s  white   cotton. 

X  2  threads  l-50s  tan  cotton. 

0  1  thread  3-50s  white  cotton. 

X  10   threads  l-50s  white  cotton. 

*  1  thread  3-50  white  cotton. 

X     6   threads  l-50s   fr.    blue   cotton. 

*  1  thread  3-50s  white   cotton. 
X     S  threads  l-50s  white  cotton. 

0      2  threads  l-50s  fr.  blue  cotton  as  1. 
X     8   threads  l-50s  white   cotton. 

*  1  thread  3-50s  white  cotton. 

X  6  threads  l-50s  fr.   blue  cotton. 

*  1  thread  3-50s  white  cotton. 
X  10  threads  l-50s  white  cotton. 
0  1  thread  3-50s  white  cotton. 
X  2  threads  l-50s  tan  cotton. 
0  1  thread  3-50s  white  coiton. 
X  6  threads  l-50s  white  cotton. 
0  1  thread  3-50s  white  cotton. 
X  2  threads  l-50s  tan  cotton. 

0      1   thread   3-50s   white    cotton. 

X  10  threads  l-50s  white  cotton. 

X  2   threads  l-50s   fr.    blue   cotton. 

*  1    thread   3-50s    white    cotton. 

X     2  threads  l-50s  fr.  blue  cotton. 

*  1  thread  3-50s  white   cotton. 

X  2   threads  l-50s   fr.    blue  cotton. 

X  8  threads  l-50s  white  cotton. 

0  2  threads  l-50s  fr.   blue  cotton  as  L 

X  8  threads  l-50s  white  cotton. 

X  2   threads  l-50s   fr.   blue   cotton. 

*  1   thread  3-50s  white  cotton. 

X      2   threads  l-50s  fr.   blue   cotton. 

*  1   thread  3-50s  white   cotton. 

X  2   threads  l-50s   fr.   blue   cotton. 

X  10   threads   l-50s    white    cotton. 

0  1    thread   3-50s    white    cotton. 

X  2   threads  l-50s  tan  cotton. 

0  1  thread  3-50s  white  cotton. 

X  2  threads  l-50s  white  cotton. 


Total  136  threads. 

Put  threads  marked  x  on  bottom 
beam. 

Put  threads  marked  0  on  middle 
beam. 

Put  threads  marked  *  on  top  beam. 

l-50s  cotton  must  be  well  sized. 

Number  of  threads  of  each  color  in 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


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120 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


pattern:  l-50s  white,  84;  l-50s  tan,  28; 
1-50S  fr.  blue,  8;  3-50s  white,  16;  total, 
136. 

Number  of  threads  of  each  color  in 
warp:  l-50s  white,  1,628;  l-50s  tan, 
532;  l-50s  fr.  blue,  152;  3-50s  white, 
304:  total.  2,616. 

Filling:  72  picks  per  inch;  all  white 
1-60S  cotton. 

The  full  design  is  illustrated  at  Fig. 
2,  and  is  complete  on  136  warp  threads 
and  12  picks.  The  drawing-in  draft  is 
Illustrated  at  Fig.  3,  and  is  complete 
on  7  harnesses  and  2  doup  shafts. 

Fig.  4  is  the  reeding  plan. 

Fig.  5  is  the  harness  chain  draft  for 
12  bars. 

THE  LOOM  REQUIRED. 

Ordinarily  to  produce  a  leno  fabric 
like  the  madras  cloth  above  analyzed 
a  close  shed  loom  is  required,  and  with 
the  harnesses  raising  and  lowering  at 
every  pick  it  necessarily  requires  a 
comparatively  slow  speed;  but  the 
Crompton  &  Knowles  Loom  Company 
build  a    dobby     (open     shed)     known 

Chain  Draft 


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as  the  Stafford  dobby.which  is  especial- 
ly adapted  for  the  weaving  of  leno 
cloths  and  all  descriptions  of  cotton 
goods  that  can  be  produced  on  20  har- 
nesses, which  is  the  limit  of  its  capac- 
ity. This  is  the  best  loom  that  is  on 
the  market  to-day  for  weaving  these 
goods.  The  loom  should  be  built  with 
a  42-inch  reed  space  and  with  4x4 
boxes. 

FINISH  REQUIRED. 

After  these  goods  are  received  from 
the  looms  they  must  be  examined  care- 
fully and  all  spots  of  dirt  and  grease 
removed,  the  selvedges  trimmed  and  all 
runners  (that  is,  filling  pulling  in  at 
the  sides)  and  also  bunches  and  large 
knots  must  be  taken  out. 

They  are  then  run  through  a  starch- 
ing machine  and  given  a  medium 
starching. 

They  are  then  run  through  a.  calen- 
der, which  flattens  out  the  threads  and 
removes  all  wrinkles  and  gives  the 
cloth  a  much  smoother  surface,  besides 
giving  it  an  appearance  of  finer  tex- 
ture. 

After    measuring    and    rolling,    the 


pieces  are  put  in  a  hydraulic  press 
and  submitted  to  a  pressure  of  many 
tons  weight.  They  are  then  labeled 
and  papered  and  are  then  ready  for 
shipment. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  machinery  required  to  make  the 
yarns  for  madras  ginghams  will  be 
found  in  mills  of  the  second  division, 
although  mills  of  the  third  division 
(as  gjven  in  a  previous  lesson)  also 
make  this  grade  of  yarn. 

THE  COUNT  OF  YARN 

which  we  will  consider  in  making  this 
class  of  goods  is  l-50s  and  3-50s  for  the 
warp  yarns  and  l-60s  for  the  filling. 
This  stock  is  made  out  of  a  good  grade 
of  cotton,  the  staple  of  which  is  about 
114  inches  to  1%  inches  in  length.  The 
cotton  is  brought  to  the  picker  room 
and  sampled  and  graded  by  the  over- 
seer in  charge  of  the  card  room,  al- 
though in  large  mills  when  a  cotto.i 
sampler  is  employed  he  also  is  present 
at  mixing  time. 

The  bales  of  cotton  are  sampled  and 
all  those  of  the  same  length  are  placed 
together.  After  the  lot  is  sampled,  a 
few  (four  or  five)  bales  are  placed 
around  the  bale  breaker  and  fed  to 
this  machine,  a  small  lot  being  taken 
from  each  bale  alternately,  until  all  the 
cotton  is  gone.  The  bagging  which 
comes  around  the  cotton  is  then  placed 
in  a  pile,  where  later  it  will  be  picked 
clean  of  all  cotton  and  then  it  is  placed 
with  other  bagging,  which  is  sold.  The 
ties  which  bind  the  bales  are  also  sold. 

THE  BALE  BREAKER. 

The  draft  of  a  bale  breaker  is  quite 
large,  but  as  the  cotton  is  in  large 
lumps  it  only  acts  on  it  by  pulling  it 
apart  so  that  a  good  deal  of  the  draft 
is  lost.  The  production  of  a  bale 
breaker  is  from  80,000  to  90,000  pounds 
per  week. 

The  cotton  is  conveyed  by  endless 
lattices  from  the  bale  breaker  to  the 
bins;  sometimes«a  blower  and  trunks 
are  used  in  connection  with  the  lat- 
tices. Where  one  is  used  it  has  been 
found  that  the  cotton  is  in  better  shape 
to  work  and  does  not  have  to  be 
dried  out  as  long  in  the  bins.  Large 
mixings  should  always  be  used  for  the 
reasons  given  in  previous  articles. 

At  the  bins  the  sliver  waste  of  the 
same  length  and  grade  of  cotton  is 
mixed  into  the  raw  stock.  As  this  is 
generally  done  by  the  man  that  col- 
lects the  waste,  it  is  always  a  good 
plan  to  watch  him  to  see  that  he  puts 
the  waste  that  he  has  collected  in  its 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


121 


proper  bin.  The  raw  stock  for  this 
class  of  goods  is  put  through  a  porcu- 
pine opener  and 

TWO  PROCESSES  OF  PICKING. 

Keep  the  hopper  of  the  opener  more 
than  half  full  of  raw  stock,  because  by 
so  doing  a  more  even  feed  will  be  ob- 
tained and  this  will  help  to  make  an 
even  yarn.  The  speed  of  the  beater  of 
the  opener  should  be  about  1,050  rev- 
olutions per  minute.  The  cotton  is 
passed  up  to  the  feed  rolls  of  the 
breaker  picker.  There  are  two  of  these 
rolls,  top  and  bottom,  and  they  present 
a  sheet  of  cotton  to  the  beater,  which 
is  generally  of  the  two-bladed  variety. 
This  beater  has  a  speed  of  about  1,500 
revolutions, per  minute,  and  the  fan  a 
speed  of  1,400  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  total  weight  of  the  lap  at  the  front 
end  of  the  breaker  picker  is  about  40 
pounds,  or  what  is  called  a  16-ounce 
lap,  meaning  that  each  yard  of  lap 
weighs  16  ounces. 

The  laps  are  taken  from  the  breaker 
picker  and  put  up  at  the  finisher  pick- 
er, the  doubling  (or  number  of  laps 
put  up)  being  4  into  1.  It  is  at  this 
point  that  the  cut  roving,  of  the  same 
length  and  grade,  is  mixed  in,  it  hav- 
ing first  been  put  through  a  special 
process,  which  takes  out  the  twist,  and 
also  a  picker,  which  forms  into  a 
lap.  The  proportion  of  cut  waste  used 
is  one  lap  of  cut  waste  to  three  laps  of 
raw  stock.  The  beater  of  the  finisher 
picker  makes  1,450  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  total  weight  of  the  lap 
at  the  front  of  the  finisher  picker  is 
about  35,  or  a  12i/^-ounce  lap  for  both 
warp  and  filling  yarn.  The  lap  is  put 
up  at 

THE  CARD. 

The  draft  of  this  machine  for  this  class 
of  goods  should  not  be  less  than  110;  the 
wire  fillet  used  on  the  cylinder  should 
be  No.  34  wire  or  No.  110  English 
count,  and  on  the  doffer  and  top 
flats  No.  35  or  No.  20  English 
count  wire  should  be  used.  The  cards 
should  be  ground  once  every  three 
weeks  and  stripped  (doffer  and  cylin- 
der) three  times  a  day.  The  cards 
should  be  thoroughly  cleaned  twice  a 
day  and  wiped  down  twice  more. 

The  speed  of  the  cylinder  should  be 
165  revolutions  per  minute,  the  licker- 
in  speed  290  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  top  fiats  should  make  one  revolu- 
tion every  34  minutes.  The  weight  of 
the  sliver  at  the  front  end  should  be 
65  grains,  and  the  production  600 
pounds  per  week  of  60  hours.  Use  a 
larger  diameter  doffer,  either  26  or  27 
inches.       On  some  grades     of     madras 


ginghams  the  filling  yarn  is  ,combed, 
but  a«  we  have  put  the  cotton  in  this 
article  through  what  is  called  fine  card- 
ing we  will  consider  that  both  the 
warp  and  filling  yarns  are  to  be  only 
carded.  The  sliver  is  taken  from  the 
card  and  put  through 

THREE  PROCESSES    OF    DRAWING 

FRAMES. 
The  doublings  of  these  machines  are  six 
into  one.  The  weight  of  the  sliver  at 
the  finisher  drawing  frame  is  70  grains. 
Look  out  to  see  that  the  top  rolls  are 
all  properly  varnished  and  in  good  re- 
pair, or  are  thoroughly  cleaned  if  me- 
tallic rolls  are  used;  see  that  all  stop 
motions  are  in  proper  working  order 
and  that  the  help  keer  the  machine 
running.  The  drawing  sliver  is  put 
through  the  slubber  and  rnade  into  .50 
hank  roving.  From  here  it  is  put 
through  three  processes  of  fly  frames 
and  made  into  10  hank  for  50s  count 
yarn  and  12  hank  for  60s  yarn.  In 
10-hank  roving  the  hanks  made  at  the 
different  processes  are  as  follows:  2 
at  first  intermediate,  4  hank  at  sec- 
ond intermediate  and  10  hank  at  the 
jack  frame.  For  12  hanlc  it  is  2  hank 
at  first  intermediate,  4  hank  at  second 
intermediate  and  12  hank  at  the  jack 
frame.  The  roving  for  warp  yarn  is 
carried  to 

THE  RING  SPINNING  ROOM 
and  spun  into  50s  yarn  on  a  frame  hav- 
ing the  following  particulars:  2% 
inches  gauge  of  frame;  diameter  of  ring 
1%  inches;  length  of  traverse,  6  in- 
ches; speed  of  spindle,  10,000  revolu- 
tions per  minute.  This  yarn  is  then 
spooled  and  the  yarn  for  the  plain 
weave  is  then  warped  and  then  put 
through  a  slasher.  The  following  mix- 
ing may  be  used  for  heavy  counts: 
Water,  100  gallons;  potato  starch,  65 
pounds;  tallow,  6  pounds;  Yorkshire 
gum,  3  pounds;  white  soap,  2  pounds; 
boil  1%  hours.  The  50s  count  yarn  for 
cords  and  leno  whip  threads  after  be- 
ing spooled  is  twisted  into  3-ply  50s 
yarn  on  the  twister  machine. 

The  12-hank  roving  for  filling  yarn 
may  either  be  ring  spun  or  mule  spun. 
If  ring  spun,  use  a  frame  having  the 
following  particulars:  for  60s  gauge  of 
frame,  2%  inches;  diameter  of  ring, 
114  inches;  length  of  traverse,5  inches; 
speed  of  spindle,  8,000  revolutions  per 
minute. 

Dyeing  Particulars. 

YELLOW. 
1  per  cent  tetrazo chlorine  yellow  GG, 
30  per  cent  Glauber's.  3  per    cent    sal 


122 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY. 


soda;  aftertreat  with  V2  per  cent  blue- 
stone,  %  per  cent  chrome. 

LIGHT  ORANGE. 

1  per  cent  tetrazo  chlorine  orange  R, 
30  per  cent  Glauber's,  2  per  cent  sal 
soda;  aftertreat  with  1/2  per  cent  blue- 
stone,  V2  per  cent  chrome. 

OLD  ROSE. 
1/.  per  cent  tetrazo  chlorine  rose,  25 
per'cent  Glauber's,  2  per  cent  sal  soda; 
aftertreat  with  Va  per  cent  bluestone, 
14  per  cent  chrome. 

LIGHT  OLIVE. 
4  per  cent  pyrogene  olive  N,  4  per 
cent  sulphide  soda,  30  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's, 3  per  cent  soda  ash;  aftertreat 
with  1  per  cent  bluestone,  1  per  cent 
chrome. 

LIGHT  TAN. 

4  per  cent  pyrogene  cutch  2G,  4  per 
cent  sulphide  soda.  30  per  cent  Glau- 
bers,  3  per  cent  soda  ash;  aftertreat 
with  1  per  cent  bluestone.  1  per  cent 
chrome. 

SKY  BLUE. 

Yz  per  cenfe  diamine  sky  blue  FF,  25 
per  cent  Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal  soda; 
aftertreat  with  ^/z  per  cent  sulphate  of 
copper. 

LILAC. 

1/^  per  cent  aamine  brilliant  blue  G, 
25  per  cent  Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal 
soda;  aftertreat:  V2  per  cent  sulphate 
of  copper. 

PEARL. 

4  ounces  diamine  dark  blue  B,  4 
ounces  diamine  brilliant  blue  G.  25  per 
cent  Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal  soda;  af- 
tertreat: V2  P2i'  cent  sulphate  of  cop- 
per. 

BUFF. 

2  ounces  diamine  catechine  3  G,  2 
ounces  diamine  catechine  B.  25  per 
cent  Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal  soda;  af- 
tertreat: V2  per  cent  sulphate  of  copper, 
%  per  cent  chrome. 

LIGHT  BROWN. 
10  per  cent  katigen  yellow  brown 
GG,  2  per  cent  katigen  brown  V,  10 
per  cent  sulphide  sodium,  3  per  cent 
soda  ash,  30  pejr  cent  salt;  aftertreat: 
4  per  cent  bluestone,  4  per  cent 
chrome,  3  per  cent  acetic  acid. 

DARK  BROWN. 

5  per  cent  diamine  catechine  B,  4  per 
cent  diamine  catechine  G,  30  per  cent 
salt,  3  per  cent  sal  soda;  aftertreat:  3 
per  cent  bluestone,  3  per  chrome. 

RED  BROWN. 
5  per  cent  diami^'e  brown  M.  30  per 
cent  Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal  soda;  af- 


tertreat:   2  per  cent  bluestone,   2   per 
cent  chrome. 

PINK. 
Vz  per  cent  benzo  fast  pink,  2  B  L,  20 
per  cent  Glauber's,  2  per  cent  sal  soda. 
RED. 
6  per  cent  primuline,     30    per    cent 
Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal  soda;   diazo 
tize  and  develop  with  beta  naphthol. 
WINE. 
As  red.    Diazotize  and  develop  with 
Bordeaux  developer. 

SLATE. 
2  per  cent  diamine  jet  black  SS,  30 
per  cent  Glauber's,  3  per  cent  sal  soda, 
aftertreat  with  3  per  cent  chrome. 
BLACK. 
6  per  cent  diamine  black  B,  30  per 
cent   Glauber's,   3   per  cent   sal   soda; 
diazotize  and  develop  with  phenylene 
diamine. 

SULPHUR  BLACK. 
10  per  cent  immedial  black  V,  10  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium,  30  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's, 3  per  cent  soda  ash;  aftertreat:  3 
per  cent  chrome.  3  per  cent  bluestone, 
3  per  cent  acetic  acid. 

LIGHT  GREEN. 
On  tannine  and  tartar  emetic  mor- 
dant.   Dye:  1  per  cent  new  methylene 
blue  GG,  1  per  cent  thioflavine  T. 
BLUE. 
On  tannine  and  tartar  emetic    mor- 
dant.   Dye:    2  per  cent     new     methy- 
lene blue  GG. 

INDIGO  BLUE. 
10   per   cent   immedial    indone    3    B, 
10  per  cent  sulphide  soda,  30  per  cent 
Glauber's,  3  per  cent  soda  ash;   after- 
treat:  3  per  ceui  sulphate  of  copper. 


ETAMINE, 


An  etamine  is  a  thin,  slightly  glossy 
fabric  used  principally  for  women's 
dress  goods.  Being  a  verj'  popular  ma- 
terial for  summer  wear,  it  is  usually 
made  in  what  is  commonly  known  as  a 
piece  dyed  fabric,  that  is,  woven  with 
undyed  yam.  A  good  reason  for  mak- 
ing it  a  piece  dyed  fabric  is  that  it  is 
much  cheaper  than  if  the  yarn  is  dyed 
previous  to  the  weaving.  Etamines 
are  dyed  in  almost  any  color.  Blue, 
black,  red  and  various  shades  of  drabs 
seem  to  be  very  popular.  The  inter- 
lacing of  the  warp  and  weft  is  on  the 
one    and   one   order,   or   plain   weave. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


123 


See  design,  Fig.  1.  The  openness  or 
transparency  of  the  fabric  is  due  part- 
ly to  the  smooth,  hard-twisted  yarn 
and  partly  to  the  weave. 

Etamines  were  originally  made  with 
"worsted  yarns,  which,  of  course,  are 
much  more  expensive;  however,  if  a 
good  quality  of  cotton  is  used  there  is 
little  difference  in  appearance  between 
worsted  and  cotton  etamines.  The  dif- 
ference would  be  phiefly  in  the  wearing 
quality,  worsted  of  course  being  more 
durable. 

The  principal  feature  of  an  etamine 
is  to  have  it  a  crisp.glossy  and  an  open 
fabric. 

ANALYSIS  OF  FABRIC. 

Width  of  warp  in  reed,  2TV2  inches; 
width  of  fabric  finished,  26  inches. 
Reeed,    BOO — 2    ends    per    dent. 

Total  ends  in  warp  740,  including  sel- 
vedge. Take-up  of  warp  during  weav- 
ing, 12  per  cent.  Weight  of  fabric 
from  loom,  3  ounces  per  yard;  weight 
of  fabric,  finished,  3  ounces  per  yard. 

No  shrinkage  during  the  finishing 
process. 

WARPING  PLAN. 

1-lOs  carded  peeler  cotton,  hard 
twist,  20  turns  per  inch,  a  left-hand 
twist. 

FILLING  PLAN. 

28  picks  per  inch  finished;  28  picks 
per  inch  in  loom;  1-lOs  carded  peeler 
■cotton,  hard  twist,  15  turns  per  inch, 
a  left-hand  twist. 

Notice  that  warp  and  weft  are  both 
the  same  twist,  that  is,  both  are  a  left 
twist.  This  is  an  important  factor 
which  cannot  be  ignored  in  making  an 
open  or  transparent  fabric. 

The  warp  is  drawn  in  straight,  that 
is,  1.  2,  3,  4  (see  Fig.  3.),  unti'  all  the 
harnesses  are  used;  four  harnesses 
would  be  quite  enough  for  a  fabric  of 
this  character;  there  being  but  26  ends 
per  inch  would  cause  no  overcrowding 
of  heddles.  Fig.  3  is  the  reeding  plan. 
Fig.  4  shows  the  chain  draft  for  a  dob- 
by  loom. 

LOOM  REQUIRED. 

This  character  of  fabric  could  be 
woven  on  any  roller  or  dobby  loom,  a 
roller  loom  being  preferable,  princi- 
pally on  account  of  the  comparatively 
low  rate  of  expense  the  latter  could  be 
operated  at. 

FINISH. 

Etamines,  as  before  mentioned,  are 
usually  woven  with  undyed  yarns,  or 
in  the  gray.  The  cloth,  after  reaching 
the  dyehouse,  is  first  subjected  to  a 
scouring  process,  then  dyed,  after 
which  it  is  given  a  medium  sizing; 
then  it  is  calendered,  which  in  a  great 


measure  accentuates  the  gloss  upon 
the  fabric  and  also  imparts  to  it  the 
crisp  feeling  which  characterizes  an 
etamine. 

It  is  then  measured,rolled  and  paper- 
ed, after  which  it  is  ready  for  the  mer- 
chant. Cotton  etamine  sells  from  12 
cents  to  20  cents  per  yard. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  cloth  of  which  the  weaving  par- 
ticulars have  been  given  is  some- 
times made  of  all  cotton  yarn  or  a 
combination  of  cotton  and  wool  or  cot- 
ton and  linen,  or  a  combination  of 
wool,  silk  linen  and  cotton  fibres.  For 
the  carding  and  spinning  particulars  of 
this  lesson  we  will  consider  that  the 
fabric  is  made  up  of  cotton  yarns  in 
both  the  warp  and  filling. 

The  count  of  the  yarn  we  will  con- 
sider to  be  10s. 

THE  YARNS 
for  this  class  of  cloth   may  be  made 
in  either  the  first  or  second   division 


FuU  Design 

DaDBOBDI 
■DBDaGBD 
DBDBDBOB 
aOBQHDBD 
DBDBOBnB 
BDBDBDBa 
aBDBL^BDB 
Fig.  1. 


aomoaama 
uwDaamna 
BanaBnna 


Reed  Plan 

naBB'DBB 
BBDDBBQa 

Fie.  3. 

Chain  Draft 

PBGW 
BJBO 
DBDB 
■DBD 
DBDB 
BOBD 
DBOB 
BDBD 
Fig.  4. 


Fig.  2. 

of  mills,  as  given  in  a  previous  article. 
Generally,  however,  the  mill  of  the  sec- 
ond division  is  used.  The  cotton 
used  would  be  peeler  of  about  1^ 
inches  length  of  staple.  A  number 
of  bales  (enough  for  a  mixing)  should 
be  brought  from  the  cotton  shed  and 
placed  in  the  picker  room.  The  over- 
seer should  sample  each  of  the  bales 
and  those  not  up  to  staple  should  be 
placed  to  one  side.  Several  of  the 
other  bales  should  be  placed  around 
the  bale  breaker  and  a  little  fed  to 
the  breaker  from  each  bale  alternately 
This  will  help  to  produce  a 

MORE    EVEN    MIXING, 

which  will  help  to  give  a  more  evenly 
finished  yarn.  The  bales  that  have 
been  laid  aside  should  either  be  used 
in  a  cheaper  mixture  or  should  be 
shown  to  the  cotton  broker  and  either 
returned  or  have  an  allowance  made 
for  them.  The  bale  breaker  should  be 
kept  on  this  cotton  until  it  is  all  put 
through.     The'  cotton  is  conveyed  from 


124 


A   COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY. 


the  bale  breaker  to  the  mixing  bin  by 
endless  lattices,which  is  the  old  meth- 
od, or  by  having  a  blower  and  trunking 
and  an  endless  lattice  as  is  the  newer 
and   more   modern   method. 

When  a  blower  is  used  in  conjunc- 
tion with  the  bale  breaker  the  cotton 
is  in  a  more  dried  out  condition  when 
it  reaches  the  bin  and  consequently  it 
does  not  have  to  stand  as  long  to  dry 
out  before  using.  A  blower  will  pay  for 
its  first  cost  many  times  over.  At  the 
mixing  bin  the  good  waste  from  all 
machines  up  to  the  slubber  is  mixed 
in  as  it  is  collected.  The  cotton  is  next 
fed  to  the  opener  and 

WHEN  A  BLOWER  IS  USED. 

passed  through  two  processes  of  pick- 
ing when  the  cotton  is  mixed  by  hand. 
These  processes  of  picking  are  gener- 
ally used.  A  three-process  picking 
and  an  opener  are  given,  but  when  two 
processes  are  used  all  that  is  necessary 
to  do  is  to  drop  the  second  or  interme- 
diate process  and  use  the  particulars 
of  the  breaker  and  finisher  picker.  A 
porcupine  beater  is  generally  used  in 
connection  with  the  opener  and  this 
has  a  speed  of  about  975  revolutions 
per  minute. 

The  cotton  passes  from  the  opener  to 
the  breaker  picker  and  after  passing 
the  feed  rolls  it  comes  in  contact  with 
the  beater, which  is  generally  of  a  rigid 
two-bladed  type,  the  speed  of  which  is 
about  1,500  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  total 

WEIGHT  OF  THE  LAPS 
at  the  front  of  the  breaker  picker  is 
about  40  pounds  or  a  16-ounce  lap. 
These  laps  are  doubled  four  into  one  at 
the  intermediate  picker,  the  beater  of 
this  picker  making  1,450  revolutions 
per  minute  and  the  total  weight  of  the 
lap  being  37  pounds  or  about  a  12- 
ounce  lap.  The  doublings  at  the  fin- 
isher picker  are  four  into  one,  the 
speed  of  the  beater  1.450  revolutions 
per  minute,  which  gives  the  cotton 
passing  through  it  42  beats  per  minute. 
It  is  at  this  point  that  the  cut  rov- 
ing of  peeler  stock  of  the  same  length 
is  mixed  in.  in  the  proportion  of  one 
lap  of  roving  waste  to  three  laps  of 
good  cotton.  The  total  weight  of  the 
cotton  lap  at  the  front  for  this  class 
of  goods  is  35  pounds  or  a  12i4-ounce 
lap.  The  next  machine  through  which 
the  cotton  passes  is 

THE  CARD. 

This  machine  for  this  class  of  goods 
has  a  draft  of  about  90.  The  cards 
should  be  stripped  three  times  a  day 
and  should  be  ground  at  least  once  a 


month.  The  flats  make  one  complete 
revolution  every  35  minutes.  The  pro- 
duction should  be  about  750  pounds  for 
a  week  of  60  hours.  The  weight  of 
the  sliver  at  the  front  should  be  about 
65  grains.  Use  as  large  a  doffer  as  pos- 
sible, either  of  a  26  or  27  inch  diameter. 
The  carded  sliver  is  then  put  through 
three  processes  of  drawing,  the  weight 
of  the  sliver  at  each  process  being  as 
follows:  77  grains  at  breaker  drawing, 
76  grains  at  intermediate  and  72  grains 
at  finisher  drawing,  the  doubling  at 
each  process  being  six  into  one.  On 
this  class  of  goods  metallic  top  rolls 
may  be  used  to  good  advantage.  The 
sliver  is  next  put  through  the  slubber 
and  made  into  .50  hank  roving.  The 
settings  of  the  rolls  at  the  slubber  for 
this  length  of  staple  should  be  as  fol- 
lows: Front  roll  to  middle,  1^^  inches; 
middle  roll  to  back,  2  inches.  The  cot- 
ton is  then  passed  through 

ONE  PROCESS  OF  FLY  FRAMES 
and  made  into  2  hank  roving.  The 
roving  for  warp  yarn  is  taken  to  the 
spinning  room  and  made  into  10s  yarn. 
The  following  particulars  are  used  on 
the  warp  frame:  Gauge  of  spindle, 3  in.; 
diameter  of  ring,  2  inches;  length  of 
traverse,  7  inches;  speed  of  spindles, 
8,600  revolutions  per  minute.  The  rov- 
ing for  the  filling  yarn  may  be  either 
mule  spun  or,  as  is  generally  the  case, 
ring  spun. 

When  ring  spun,  use  the  following 
particulars  for  filling  frame  spinning: 
10s  yarn,  gauge  of  spindle,  2%  inches; 
diameter  of  ring,  1%  inches;  length  of 
traverse,  7  inches  (because  the  filling 
yarn  for  this  fabric  has  sufficient  twist 
put  in  to  stand  this  length  of  traverse), 
speed  of  spindles,  6,400  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  warp  yarn  is  then 
spooled,  warped  and  run  through  a 
slasher. 


Dyeing    Particulars. 

The  fabric  is  dyed  on  the  jig  ma- 
chine. 

BLACK. 

15  per  cent  immedial  black  N  N,  15 
per  cent  sulphide  sodium,   3  per  cent 
soda  ash,   30   per  cent  Glauber's  salt; 
rinse  well,  and  give  a  soap  bath. 
BLUE. 

5  per  cent  immedial  indone  B,  5  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium,  2  per  cent  soda 
ash,  25  per  cent  Glauber's  salt;  rinse 
and  top  with  8  ounces  methylene  blue 
B,  1  pint  acetic  acid. 

BROWN. 

0  per  cent  immedial  brown  B,  4  per 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


125 


cent  immedial  yellow  D,  10  per  cent 
sulphide  sodium,  3  per  cent  soda  ash. 
30  per  cent  Glauber's  salt;  rinse  and 
give  a  soap  bath. 

GREEN. 
4  per  cent  immedial  yellow  D,  3  per 
cent  immedial  indone  B,  7  per  cent  sul- 
phide sodium,  3  per  cent  soda  ash,  30 
per  cent  Glauber's  salt;  rinse  and  give 
a  soap  bath. 


BATISTE. 


Batiste  as  the  name  implies,  is  of 
French  origin,  commercially  under- 
stood to  mean  a  light  translucent  cloth, 
made  from  a  fine  quality  of  combed 
cotton  yarn,  ranging  in  width  from  32 
inches  to  45  inches. 

There  Is  likewise  a  gradual  variation 
in  qualities,  ranging  from  a  compara- 
tively coarse  to  a  very  fine  fabric. 

The  variations  of  the  different  qual- 
ities will  be  more  apparent  when  we 
consider  their  commercial  value.  It 
may  be  of  interest  to  our  readers  to 
note  the  retail  prices. 

Cotton  batiste  retails  at  from  12% 
cents  in  32-inch  widths  to  50  cents  in 
45-inch  width  per  yard. 

The  variety  of  qualities  will  suggest 
some  idea  of  the  utility  of  the  fabric. 
Its  uses  are  even  more  varied  than  are 
the  qualities. 

The  finer  grades  of  batiste  are  used 
for  dress  goods,  all  kinds  of  lingerie 
for  summer  wear,  pillow  shams,  etc., 
while  the  cheaper  grades  are  extensive- 
ly used  for  linings  in  washable  and 
unwashable  shirtwaists. 

In  this  article  we  are  confining  our- 
selves to  bleached  cotton  batiste,  re- 
serving the  linen  and  colored  for  some 
future  discussion. 

Batiste  is  woven  in  the  gray,  that  is, 
with  yarn  direct  from  the  spinning 
frame,  with  the  exception  that  the 
warp  yam  is  well  sized,  in  order  to  bet- 
ter stand  the  strain  to  which  the 
yam  is  subjected  during  the  weaving 
process. 

We  will  consider,  first,  a  very  fine 
bleached  cotton  batiste,  of  a  quality 
made  45  inches  in  width,  and  then  a 
very  cheap  grade  of  bleached  cotton 
batiste,   made  32  inches  in  width. 

The  analysis  will  readily  show  the 
vast  difference  in  these  two  qualities. 

FINE  BLEACHED  COTTON  BATISTE 
Width  of  warp  in  leed,  47. S  inches; 


finish  at  45  inches;  ends  per  inch  in 
the  cloth  from  loom,  94;  ends  per  inch 
finished,  100;    ends  in  warp,   4,500. 

Take-up  of  warp  during  weaving,  10 
per  cent;  weight  of  fabric  per  yard 
from  loom,  1.15  ounces;  finished 
weight,  1.4  ounces. 

The  difference  in  weight  between  fab- 
ric from  loom  and  finished  fabric  is 
about  20  per  cent,  the  finished  goods 
having  taken  on  20  per  cent  of  sizing 
material. 

For  adding  weight  to  cloth,  China 
clay  is  used.  The  proportions  to  use 
depend  on  the  character  of  finish  de- 
sired. China  clay  produces  a  gritty 
feel,  which,  however,  may  be  overcome 
by  the  use  of  chloride  of  magnesium, 
which  is  a  very  powerful  softener  as 
well  as  a  weighting  material. 

Warping  plan:  body  of  warp,  1-1203 
combed  Sea  Island  cotton,  selvage  2- 
100s  cotton. 

Filling  plan:  98  picks  of  l-200s 
combed  Sea  Island  cotton. 

CHEAP-GRADE    COTTON    BATISTE. 

Width  of  warp  in  reed,  34  inches. 
Finish  at  32  inches;  ends  per  inch  in 
cloth  in  the  loom.  54;  ends  per  inch 
finished,  58;  ends  in  warp,  1,860;  54x1 
reed. 

Take-up  of  warp  during  weaving,  8 
per  cent;  weight  of  fabric  per  yard 
from  loom,  .84  ounce;  finislhed  weight 
per  yard,  1  ounce;  19  per  cent  increase 
in  weight. 

Warping  plan:  all  l-60s  combed  Sea 
Island  cotton 

Filling:  50  picks  per  inch  1-lOOs 
combed  Sea  Island  cotton. 

LOOM   REQUIRED. 

Batiste  could  be  very  profitably 
woven  on  a  Northrop  magazine  loom. 
The  fabric  is  a  plain  weave,  no  dobby 
being  required.  The  fineness  of  the 
yarn,  however,  requires  the  use  of 
string  heddles.  Wire  heddles  would 
cause  too  many  warp  breakages.  The 
high  running  speed  of  the  Northrop 
loom,  together  with  the  number  of 
looms  a  weaver  can  tend, 10  to  20  looms, 
brings  the  weaving  cost  to  a  minimum. 
The  warp  should  be  drawn  in  on  four 
harnesses,  skip  draw  as  follows:  1,  3,  2, 
4  instead  of  straight,  as  1,  2,  3,  4. 
Skip  draws  give  less  strain  to  the 
warp. 

FINISH. 

Batistes  are  given  a  Swiss  finish; 
after  the  cloth  comes  from  the  loom  it 
is  bleached.  After  the  bleaching  proc- 
ess it  is  sized,  then  sprinkled  or  damp- 
ened, and  then  calendered,  after  which 
it  is  folded;  then  it  is  ready  for  the 
market. 


126 


A   COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  division  of  mills  which  make 
"batiste"  is  the  third  of  those  mills 
which  are  eauipped  with  machinery 
for  making  fine  count  yarns.  Batiste 
is  made  up  of  extra  fine  counts  of  yam, 
although  these  counts  vary  a  great  deal 
according  to  the  grade  of  fabric  want- 
ed. In  order  to  do  this  cloth  justice 
it  will  be  better  to  first  describe  the 
processes  of  a  coarse  yarn  batiste  and 
then  a  batiste  made  up  of  fine  yarns. 
We  will  consider  the  coarse  fabric  to 
be  made  up  of  l-60s  warp  yarn  and 
1-lOOs  filling  yam.  The  finer  grade 
we  will  consider  made  up  of  l-120s 
warp  yarn  and  l-200s  filling  yam. 

THE  RAW  STOCK 
used  for  both  grades  should  be  Sea 
Island  cotton  of  from  1%  to  2  inches 
staple,  although  1%  inches  staple  is 
the  length  generally  used.  The  selec- 
tion of  the  cotton  is  one  of  the  first 
and  by  many  considered  the  most  im- 
portant points  to  look  out  for.  The  lot 
should  be  sampled  bale  by  bale  and 
all  those  bales  having  a  staple  not  up 
to  standard  should  be  thrown  out  of 
the  mixing.  Those  bales  that  are  se- 
lected as  O.  K.,  should  be  placed 
around  the  mixing  bin  and  thrown  in- 
to it  alternately  from  each  bale  until 
all  the  bales  for  the  mixing  are  in.  At 
this  point  the 

GOOD  SLIVER  AND  PICKER  WASTE 
are  mixed  in.  Care  should  be  taken  to 
see  that  the  sliver  waste  is  pulled  apart 
into  short  lengths  and  that  no  other 
waste  is  thrown  into  the  bins  by  mis- 
take, because  a  small  lot  of  short  staple 
waste  can  cause  a  great  deal  of  trouble 
later  on.  Some  overseers  use  only 
an  opener  and  one  process  of  picking, 
others  use  two  processes  of  picking 
with  the  opener.  It  is  the  general  cus- 
tom to  use  only  an  opener  and  one 
process  of  picking  for  these  fine 
counts.  The  general  instructions  that 
have  been  given  in  regard  to  openers 
should  be  followed.  The  speed  of  the 
beater  (rigid  type)  should  be  reduced 
so  that  the  cotton  should  only  receive 
29  beats  per  minute.  The  weight  of 
the  lap  at  the  front  end  of  the  picker 
(when  one  picker  is  used)  should  not 
exceed  30  pounds  and  from  this  range 
to  25  pounds. 

A  GOOD  WEIGHT 
per  yard  for  the  grade  of  fabric  under 
description  is  9  ounces.  The  machines 
should  be  carefully  looked  into  to  see 
that  they  are  all  kept  clean  and  prop- 
erly set.  The  laps  are  taken  to  the 
cards.  At  this  point,  as  at  a  great 
many  others,  overseers  differ  as  to  the 


best  means  of  procedure.  Some  use 
a  large  draft  at  the  card  and  only  one 
process  of  combing.and  others  use  lower 
drafts  and  two  processes  of  combing.  In 
this  lesson  we  will  assume  a  large  card 
draft  and  one  process  of  combing  for 
all  counts  of  yarn  in  both  grades  of 
batiste.  The  speed  of  the  licker  should 
be  reduced  from  about  350  revolutions 
per  minute  to  275  or  280  revolutions 
per  minute.  This  is  done  by  lagging 
the  licker-in  pulley.  The  wire  fillet 
used  on  the  cylinder  should  be  No.  34 
wire  (American  count,  or  110s  English 
count),  and  on  the  doffer  and  top  flats 
No.  36  wire,  or  130s  English  count. 

THE  FLATS 
should  be  speeded  up  to  take  out  as 
much  waste  as  possible.  The  cards 
should  be  stripped  three  times  a  day 
and  ground  so  as  to  keep  the  wire 
sharp.  The  settings  used  should  be 
very  close  and  care  should  be  taken  to 
see  that  the  cotton  is  not  broken  in 
staple  at  the  card.  A  great  many 
times,  if  the  cotton  is  sampled  at  the 
front  of  the  card,  it  will  be  found  to  be 
shorter  than  when  entering.  This 
may  be  and  is  generally  caused  by  an 
improper  setting  of  the  feed  plate  to 
the  licker-in.  While  this  applies  di- 
rectly to  long  staple  cotton,  still  all 
cottons  should  be  looked  into  carefully 
to  avoid  shortening  the  length  of 
the  staple.  It  is  very  important 
to  keep  the  cards  clean  so  that  as 
little  dust  and  dirt  will  go  inlo  the 
sliver  as  possible,  because,  if  this  dirt 
gets  past  the  combers,  it  will  show  up 
in  the  cloth,  as  the  thread  or  yarn  is 
so  small.     The 

PRODUCTION  FOR  A  CARD 
making  this  class  of  goods  should  not 
exceed  275  pounds  per  week,  the 
weight  of  the  sliver  being  about  30  to 
35  grains  per  yard.  The  draft  for  this 
class  of  goods  should  not  be  less  than 
150.  The  card  sliver  is  taken  to  the 
comber  room  and  doubled  14  into  1  at 
the  sliver  lap,  and  the  laps  from  this 
machine  are  taken  to  the  ribbon  lap 
machine  and  doubled  5  into  1.  The 
weight  of  a  yard  of  lap  at  the  front  of 
the  ribbon  lap  machine  should  be 
about  160  grains.  These  laps  are  pift 
up  at  the  comber  and  doubled  6  into  1. 
The  speed  of  the  comber  for  this  stock 
should  not  exceed  180  nips  per  min- 
ute. For  this  weight  of  web  a  double 
row  of  teeth  in  the  top  comb  would 
give 

THE  BEST  RESULTS. 
Care  should  be  taken    to  see  that  all 
needles  in     the  top  are     straight  and 
that  the     comber   is     absolutely  free 
from  dirt  at  all  times.     The  table  of 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


127 


the  comber  should  be  gone  over  twice 
a  day  with  whitening  so  that  the  sliv- 
er being  drawn  over  it  will  not  stick. 
The  percentage  of  waste  taken  out 
should  be  about  25.  These  processes 
will  answer  for  all  the  counts  except 
for  the  200s,  which  should  be  double 
combed,  i.  e.,  after  being  put  through 
the  combers  once  should  be  run 
through  the  sliver  lap  machine  and 
then  through  the  combers  again.  After 
passing  through  the  combers  the  sliv- 
er passes  through  two  processes  of 
drawing.  At  these  machines  the  sU.v- 
er  is  doubled  six  into  one,  the  speed  of 
the  front  rolls  at  each  frame  being  320 
revolutions  per  minute.  Be  sure  the 
sf^ttings  are  proper  for  the  staple  so 
as  not  to  "break"  the  staple,  or  too  far 
apart  so  that  uneven  drawing  will  re- 
sult. 

THE  TOP  ROLLS 
should  be  of  a  little  larger  diameter 
than  for  shorter  length  of  staple;  the 
grade  of  skin  used  for  the  top  rolls 
should  be  finer  than  that  used  for  the 
shorter  and  lower  grades  of  cotton. 
Not  only  is  this  true  in  regard  to  the 
drawing  frames,  but  also  on  all  ma- 
chines on  which  leather  top  rolls  are 
used.  Always  keep  these  rolls  in  the 
best  of  shape  and  clean  machines 
more  often  than  with  the  lower  grades 
of  raw  stock.  The  weight  of  sliver  at 
the  front  is  60  grains  per  yard.  The 
drawing  sliver  is  put  through  the  slub- 
ber, which  makes  it  into  .SO  hank. 
This  machine  also  uses  a  larger  diam- 
eter top  roll  than  is  used  on  the  lowe» 
grades.  The  slubber  roving  for  60^ 
yarn  is  put  through  three  processes  of 
fly  frames,  the  hank  roving  at  the  1st 
intermediate  being  2.25;  at  the  second, 
5  hank,  and  at  the  fine  frames  15  hank. 
From  here  it  is  taken  to  the  ring  spin- 
ning room  and  made  into  60s  warp 
yarn  on  a  frame  having  the  followir.;? 
particulars:  Gauge  of  frame,  2% 
inches;  diameter  of  ring,  1  5-16 
inches;   length  of  traverse,  5  inches. 

TO  MAKE  lOOs  YARN 
the  slubber  roving  is  the  same,  also 
the  hank  roving  at  the  first  and  second 
intermediates.  The  hank  roving  at  the 
fine  frame  is  20.  This  yarn  for  filling 
is  taken  to  the  mule  spinning  room; 
for  warp  yam  used  in  the  finer  grade 
of  batiste  is  sometimes  spun  in  the 
mule  room  and  sometimes  in  the  ring 
spinning  room.  When  spun  on  the 
ring  frame,  use  the  following  partic- 
ulars for  a  warp  frame:  Gauge  of 
frame,  2%  inches;  diameter  of  ring, 
1%  inches;  length  of  traverse,  5  inches. 
For  making  200s  yarn  the  final  yarn 
is  spun  single  at  the    mule;     if    spun 


double,  the  frames  and  hank  roving  at 
each  would  be  as  follows:  Slubber,  .80; 
first  intermediate,  2.25;  second  inter- 
mediate, 5;  roving,  20,  and  jack  30 
hank.  This  would  be  taken  to  the  mule 
room  and  spun  into  200s  yarn.  The 
warp  yarn  for  both  grades  of  fabric 
would  be  spooled  and  warped  and  run 
through  a  slasher. 

A  GOOD  MIXING 

for  60s  yarn  is  as  follows:  Water,  100 
gallons;  potato  starch,  54  pounds; 
Yorkshire  gum,  2  pounds;  soap,  1^/^ 
pounds.  A  good  sizing  mixture  for  the 
100s  would  be  as  follows:  Water,  100 
gallons:  potato  starch,  70  pounds;  tal- 
low, 7  pounds;  Yorkshire  gum,  3 
pounds;  soap,  2  pounds.  Boil  two 
hours  and  let  stand  10  hours  before 
using;  keep  agitator  running  and  keep 
size  almost  at  boiling  point.  For  sel- 
vedge, the  100s  yarn  would  have  to  be 
doubled  into  2-ply  100s  in  addition  to 
the  other  processes. 


Bleaching,  Dyeing  and  Finishing  Par- 
ticulars. 

These  goods  are  bleached  in  the  or- 
dinary way,  great  care  being  taken  to 
keep  the  goods  from  damage. 

The  pieces  are  boiled  in  caustic  soda 
at  4  degrees  Tw.  for  ten  hours,  rinsed 
well  in  water,  and  boiled  again  with 
4  degrees  Tw.  caustic  soda,  rinsed, 
and  soured  with  %  degree  Tw.  of  oil 
of  vitriol,  rinsed  and  passed  through  a 
solution  of  chloride  of  lime  at  i/^  degree 
Tw.  soured  with  Yz  degree  Tw.  oil  of 
vitriol,  and  well  rinsed,  until  all  acid 
is  washed  out. 

The  goods  are  then  dried,  and 
starched  through  a  mangle  with  8-12 
ounces  best  white  German  dextrine  to 
one  gallon  of  water,  starch  to  be  well 
boiled  one  hour  before  using. 

The  pieces  are  dried  on  a  tenter 
frame  at  full  width,  care  being  taken 
to  keep  the  warp  and  filling  straight. 

COLORS. 

If  colors  are  required  they  are  light 
blues,  pinks  and  other  light  tints  (Jyed 
in  the  mangle  or  on  the  jig. 

LIGHT  PINK. 

For  10  50-yard  pieces,  12  gallons 
water;  %  ounce  to  2  ounces  Erika 
pink;  20  pounds  Glauber's;  3  pounds 
sal  soda. 

LIGHT  BLUE. 

Dye  as  pink  with  i?^  to  1  ounce  tetra- 
zo  brilliant  blue  6B. 


128 


A   COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY. 


LIGHT  SLATE. 
2  ounces  diamine  blacli  B  H,  dye  as 
pink. 

RED. 
1-2  pounds  benzo  fast  red   4B,  dye  as 
pink.  , 

YELLOW. 
Dye  as  pink.     8  ounces  chrysophe- 
nine. 

ORANGE. 
Dye  as  pink.  1  pound  Mikado  orange 
B. 

SCARLET. 

Dye  as  pink.  1  pound  diamine  scar- 
let B. 

LIGHT  WINE. 

Dye  as  pink.  1  pound  diamine  Bor- 
deaux B. 

LIGHT  AMBER  BROWN. 
4  ounces     diamine  catechine     G;    4 
ounces  diamine  fast  yellow  B,  dye  as 
pink. 

TOBACCO  BROWN. 
Vz  pound  diamine  brown  B;  2  ounces 
diamine  fast  yellow  B,  dye  as  pink, 
LIGHT  TAN. 
Dye     as     pink.   4     ounces     diamine 
bronze  G;   2  ounces  diamine  fast  yel- 
low B. 

LIGHT    GREEN. 

Dye  as  pink.  10  ounces  diamine 
green  G:  5  ounces  diamine  fast  yellow 
B.  Top  with  fresh  bath;  6  ounces 
brilliant  green  G. 

BLACK. 

Dye  on  jig.  15  per  cent  immedial 
black  N  N;  15  per  cent  sulphide  soda; 
3  per  cent  soda  ash;  30  per  cent 
Glauber's  salt. 


ITALIAN  CLOTH. 


Italian  cloth  is  a  light,  glossy  fabric 
made  from  cotton  and  worsted,  cotton 
and  wool,  cotton  and  mohair  and  all 
cotton. 

We  will  here  consider  the  all-cotton 
fabric.  Italian  cloth  is  very  common- 
ly understood  to  mean  a  satin  fabric, 
by  some  known  as  Farmer's  satin. 

ITS  CHIEF  USE. 
It  is  used  chiefly  for  linings 
for  the  heavier  styles  of  ladies' 
dresses,  also  for  underskirts,  or  for  the 
garment  itself,  instead  of  merely  as  a 
lining;  when  used  for  such,  it  is  usu- 
ally in  solid  black.  It  is  also  used  for 
shirtwaistings,  fancy  pillow  backs  and 


so   forth,   for   these   purposes    usually 
in  fancy  colors. 

The  cloth  is  woven  "in  the  gray" 
— undyed  yams.  In  the  finer  grades 
the  warp  is  sized  so  as  to  facilitate  the 


DDDBDnnDBDnncBn 

DHQDDDHDaDnBDDn 
DDDDHaDDDBCnDDB 

DcuaaaoucoDomaa 
■aDDD«nnnDBDDaa 
DDDHannDBDa._aBD 
UBnnaaBDDGDBcaa 
naoauaaauuancam 

DDBDnnnBDDDDBOa 

■nnDDBanDDBDDna 

□DGBDDGDBnnDnBD 
DBaaaaBDDDDBDDD 
DDDDBDDDDBDanaB 
□aBDDDDBnDDDBDD 
BDCDDBDaDDBQDDC 


Fig.  1. 


□nDDDnnDnBnnDGDDDnDB 
DaDaDaDDBDDDunnnooBa 
nnnnDDDBDcoDacDDnBDn 
nnaaDQBDnaaaDnnnBDnn 
DDnaaBDnDnDnaaaBnoDn 
DDDDBDDnnDDDaDBnnnna 

nDDBaDDDDDnnDBCIDnaDD 

cnBnDDannnnDBaDDDnaa 
DBnaDanoDDnBDDDDDnDn 
■aaDDDDnnaBuDDDDDnna 


Fi§ 


Fis 


weaving  process.  The  fabric  under 
consideration  is  a  five-harness  satin 
weave.  The  satin  weave,  technically 
called  "satin."  is  one  of  the  three 
foundation  weaves.  The  object  of  a 
satin  weave  is  to  get  a  smooth-face 
fabric. 

In  plain  twill  weaves  every  pick  in- 
terlaces with  the  warp  in  the  same 
manner,  but  each  successive  pick  com- 
mences as  it  were  one  end  farther  to 
the  right  or  left,  according  to  the  di- 
rection of  the  twill.  This  will  bind 
the  cloth  in  a  regular  order. 

In   satin  weaves 

THE  INTERLACING 
is   arranged   differently;    the   intersec- 
tions of  warp  and  weft  are  distributed 
as  evenly  as  possible  over  the  surface 
of  the  fabric. 

The  smallest  and  most  common  form 
of  satin  is  the  five-harness  satin.  The 
order  of  intersections  is  1,  3,  5,  2,  4. 
(See  Fig.  1.) 

ANALYSIS  OF  FABRIC. 

Width  of  warp  in  reed,  38  inches; 
width  of  fabric,  finished,  36  inches; 
ends  per  inch  in  reed,  96;  ends 
per  inch,  finished,  102;  ends  in 
warp,  3,700;  32  dent  reed  per 
inch — 3  ends  per  dent.  Take-up 
of  warp  during  weaving  is  5  per  cent; 
weight  of  fabric,  per  yard,  from  loom, 
is  four  ounces. 

Owing  to  the  pressure  the  fabric  is 
subjected  to  in  the  finishing,  it 
stretches  slightly  in  length;  conse- 
quently the  cloth  should  be  lighter  per 
yard,  finished,    than    the    cloth    from 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


129 


loom.  The  difference,  however,  is 
made  up  by  the  sizing  materials,  al- 
though it  is  given  but  a  very  light  siz- 
ing. 

The  cloth  per  yard  finished  is  prac- 
tically of  the  same  weight  as  the  cloth 
per  yard  from  loom. 

Warp:  All  l-40s  cotton,  left  twist. 

Filling:  All  l-45s  cotton,  left  twist. 

130  picks  per  inch. 

Fig.  1  shows  three  repeats  of  the 
design;  the  weave  as  mentioned  above 
is  a  five-harness  satin,  weft  face,  with 
the  direction  of  the  twill  running  to 
the  right. 

The  fabric  in  question  has  a  very 
smooth  face,  which  is  due  in  a  great 
measure  to  the  direction  of  the  twill 
being  opposite  to  the  direction  of  twist 
of  yarn. 

Fig.  2  shows  drawing-in  draft.  The 
warp  is  drawn  on  ten  harnesses, 
straight  draw — five  harnesses  would  be 
enough;  ten  harnesses  are  used  so  as 
not  to  overcrowd  the  heddles. 

Fig.  3  shows  reeding  plan. 

The  warp  is  reeded  3  ends  in  one 
dent. 

LOOM  REQUIRED. 

This  character  of  fabric  could  be 
woven  on  any  loom  where  ten  har- 
nesses could  be  operated  without  dif- 
ficulty. The  loom  should  have  a  fair- 
ly high  running  speed. 
FINISH. 

This  fabric,  as  before  mentioned,  is 
woven  with  undyed  yarns.  After  it 
comes  from  the  loom  it  is  boiled  off, 
then  dyed,after  which  it  is  subjected  to 
a  light  sizing.  For  a  light  sizing  it  is 
not  necessary  to  use  anything  but 
wheat  flour,  farina  and  a  small  quanti- 
ty of  softening  material,  usually  tallow 
or  wax. 

After  the  cloth  is  sized  it  is  run 
through  the  calender  with  the  rolls 
well  heated,  the  glossy  face  of  the  fab- 
ric being  obtained  by  the  heated  rolls. 
The  cloth,  after  the  calendering.is  fold- 
ed, after  which  it  is  ready  for  the  mar- 
ket. 


Carding   and   Spinning    Particulars. 

Italian  cloth  is  made  in  mills  of  the 
second  division  as  given  in  a  previous 
lesson.  The  class  of  cloth  may  be 
made  up  of  several  grades  and  lengths 
of  raw  stock,  but  for  this  article  we 
will  consider  that  the  cotton  Is  of  a 
fair  grade,  the  staple  being  about  1% 
inches  in  length.  The  cotton  is  all 
sampled  before  being  put  through  this 
bale  breaker,  several  bales  being 
placed  around  this  machine,  the 
cotton    being    fed     alternately    from 


each  bale  until  all  the  cot- 
ton is  gone.  The  bagging  which  cov- 
ers these  bales  ib  thrown  into  a  pile 
and  is  again  picked  over  in  order  to 
clean  all  the  fibre  from  the  bagging. 
This  is  generally  done  by  the  yard 
hands   on   rainy  days. 

THE  BEST  METHOD 
of  conveying  the  cotton  to  the  mixing 
bins  is  by  a  blower  and  endless  lat- 
tices. When  a  blower  is  used,  the 
cotton  arrives  at  the  mixing  bins  in  a 
more  open  state  and  works  up  much 
better.  At  the  mixing  bin  the  good 
waste  cotton  from  all  the  machines  up 
to  the  slubber  is  mixed  in.  The  cot- 
ton is  fed  to  the  hopper  of  the  open- 
er which  should  always  be  kept  half 
full  and  from  here  is  passed  on  to  the 
feed  rolls  of  the  breaker  picker.  For 
this  class  of  goods  some  overseers  use 
two  and  some  use  three  processes  of 
picking.  It  is  the  general  plan  of  up- 
to-date  mills  to  use  two  processes  with 
an  opener.  After  passing  the  feed 
rolls  of  the  breaker  picker  the  cotton 
comes  under  the 

ACTION  OF  THE  BEATER. 
If  this  is  of  a  rigid  two-bladed  type 
(which  is  the  one  most  generally  used) 
the  speed  should  be  aoout  1,500  revo- 
lutions per  minute.  The  total  weight 
of  the  lap  at  the  front  of  the  breaker 
picker  is  40  pounds  or  about  16  ounces 
to  the  yard.  These  laps  are  taken 
and  put  up  at  the  finisher  picker  and 
doubled  four  into  one.  The  roving 
waste  is  mixed  in  at  this  point  in  the 
proportion  of  three  laps  of  good  cot- 
ton to  one  lap  of  bobbin  or  roving 
waste.  The  roving  waste  is  put 
through  a  special  picker  that  takes 
out  the  twist  and  delivers  it  in  a  light, 
fluffy  state.  This  is  taken  and  spread 
evenly  on  the  apron  of  a  picker  and 
made  into  a  lap,  the  weight  of  which 
corresponds  to  the  weight  of  the  laps 
of  the  same  kind  being  put  up  at  the 
back  of  the  finisher  picker.  The  speed 
of  the  beater  (two-bladed  rigid  type) 
for  this  class  of  work  is  about  1,400 
revolutions  per  minute.  This  gives 
the  cotton  passing  through  42  Ijeats 
per  inch.     The  total 

WEIGHT  OF  THE  LAP 
at  the  front  of  the  finisher  should  be 
about  35  pounds,  a  variation  of  % 
pound  being  allowed  from  standard. 
If  the  weight  is  more  than  %  pound, 
the  laps  should  be  run  over  again,  i.  e., 
placed  at  the  back  of  the  finisher  and 
run  through  with  three  other  laps.  If 
there  is  a  great  variation  in  the  laps, 
the  machine  should  be  looked  Into  to 
see  what  is  the  cause.     For  slight  va- 


130 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


nations  in  weight  there  are  adjust- 
ments to  quickly  remedy  the  defects. 
The  lap  at  the  front  for  this  class  of 
goods  should  weigh  12 1/^  ounces  to  the 
yard.  The  laps  are  put  up  at  the 
card  and  the  draft  of  this  machine 
should  not  be  less  than  100.  Medium 
card  fillet  wire  should  be  used  on  both 
the  cylinder,  doffer  and  flats,  the 
wire  on  the  doffer  and  flats  being  one 
point  finer  than  that  used  on  the  cyl- 
inder. The  speed  of  the  cylinder 
should  be  about  165  revolutions  per 
minute;  speed  of  licker-in,  about  350 
revolutions  per  minute;  the  speed  of 
the  top  fiats,  1  complete  revolution 
every  50  minutes. 

THE  CARDS 
should  be  stripped  3  times  a  day  and 
ground  surely  once  a  month.  At  the 
time  of  grinding,  the  card  wires  should 
be  all  straightened  out  and  all  reset 
properly.  Light  grinding  should  al- 
ways be  used.  The  weight  of  the 
sliver  at  the  front  should  be  about  65 
grains  per  yard.  The  production  for 
a  week  of  60  hours  (allowing  10  per 
cent  of  time  for  cleaning,  stoppage, 
etc.)  is  about  700  pounds.  The  cot- 
ton sliver  is  then  passed  on  to  the 
drawing  frames  and  through  three 
processes  of  these  machines.  The 
drawing  frames  may  be  either 
equipped  with  metallic  or  leather  cov- 
ered top  rolls,  the  speed  of  the  front 
roll  at  each  process  being  about  400 
revolutions  per  minute.  See  that  the 
drawing  frame  bottom  rolls  are  prop- 
erly set,  a  good  setting  for  this  stock 
being  as  follows:  From  centre  of 
front  roll  to  centre  of  second  roll,  1% 
inches;  second  roll  to  third  roll.  1% 
inches;  third  roll  to  back  roll,  1% 
inches. 

The  weight  of  sliver  at  the  front  of 
the  finisher  drawing  frame  should  be 
72  grains,  the  doubling  at  each  proc- 
ess being  six  into  one. 

AT  THE  SLUBBER 
the  sliver  is  drawn  into  .50  hank  rov- 
ing. From  here  it  passes  through 
three  processes  of  fly  frames,  the  hank 
roving  being  as  follows:  First  inter- 
mediate, 1.50  hank;  second  interme- 
diate, 4.00,  and  fine  frame  10.00  hank. 
At  the  fly  frame  look  cut  for  the  top 
leather  covered  rolls.  These  should 
always  be  in  the  best  of  shape.  Put 
just  enough  twist  into  the  roving  so 
that  it  will  not  break  back  at  the  suc- 
ceeding process.  Remember,  every 
extra  turn  of  twist  given  the  roving 
lessens  the  production.  On  the 
other  hand,  do  not  get  the  roving  too 
slack  twisted,  for  then  loss  of  produc- 
tion, as  well  as  poor  work,  will  result 


in  consequence  of  the  roving  breaking 
back.  The  wai"p  roving  is  then  taken 
to 

THE  SPINNING  ROOM 

and  spun  into  40s  yarn  on  a  frame 
having  the  following  particulars: 
Gauge  of  frame,  2%  inches;  diameter 
of  ring,  1%  inches;  length  of  traverse, 
6y2  inches;  speed  of  spindle,  10,000 
revolutions  per  minute.  The  roving 
for  the  filling  yarn  may  be  taken  to 
either  the  ring  spinning  or  the  mule 
room,  where  it  is  spim  into  45s  yam. 
If  taken  to  the  ring  spinning  room, 
use  a  frame  of  following  particulars: 
Gauge  of  rame,  2%  inches;  diameter 
of  ring,  1%  inches;  length  of  traverse, 
51/^  inches;  speed  of  spindles,  8,800 
revolutions  per  minute.  The  warp 
yarn  is  then  spooled  and  warped  and. 
run  through  a  slasher. 


Dyeing    Particulars. 

The  pieces  are  boiled  out  for  dark- 
shades,  and  bleached  white  for  light 
shades  and  tints. 

The  dyeing  is  done  on  a  jig  machine. 

PINK. 

8  ounces  diamine  rose  G  D,  20  pounds 
Glauber's,  1  pound  sal  soda.  All  the 
dyeings  are  for  10-12  gallons  water- 
and  10  pieces,  50  yards. 

SALMON. 

4  ounces  diamine  orange  B,  1  ounce 
diamine  scarlet  B,  15  pounds  Glauber's, 
1  pound  sal  soda. 

LIGHT  BUFF. 

4  ounces  diamine     catechine     G,     1 
ounce  diamine  fast  yellow  B,  15  pounds  - 
Glauber's,  1  pound  sal  soda. 

LIGHT  SLATE. 

4  ounces  diamine  black  B  H,  15 . 
pounds  Glauber's,  1  pound  sal  soda. 

LIGHT  GRAY. 

One-half  pound  diamine  gray  G,  15 
pounds  Glauber's,  1  pound  sal  soda. 

LIGHT  BROWN. 

One-half  pound  diamine  catechine  G, 
V2  pound  diamine  brown  B,  2  ounces 
diamine  fast  yellow  A,  20  pounds 
Glauber's,  1  pound   sal  soda. 

RED. 

3  pounds  diamine  fast  red  F,  30 
pounds  Glauber's,  2  pounds  sal  soda. 

SKY  BLUE. 
2  pounds  diamine  sky  blue  F  F,  30  ■ 
pounds  Glauber's,  2  pounds  sal  soda. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


131 


SLATE. 

1  pound  immedial  black  N  B,  4 
ounces  immedial  olive  B,  1  pound  sul- 
phide of  sodium,  20  pounds  Glauber's, 
%  pound  soda  ash. 

PEARL. 

2  ounces  immedial  black  N  R  T,  i^ 
pound  sulphide  sodium,  10  pounds 
Glauber's,  6  ounces  soda  ash. 

BLACK. 
15  pounds  immedial  black  N    N,    15 
IK)unds  sulphide    sodium,     30     pounds 
Glauber's,  3  pounds  sal  soda. 

NAVY  BLUE. 

2  pounds  immedial  indone  3B,  2 
pounds  immedial  indone  R,  5  pounds 
sulphide  sodium,  30  pounds  Glauber's, 
3  pounds  sal  soda. 

NIGHT  GREEN. 

3  pounds  brilliant  benzo  green  B,  30 
pounds  Glauber's,  3  pounds  sal  soda. 

HELIOTROPE. 

1  pound  heliotrope  B  B,  25  pounds 
Glauber's,  2  pounds  sal  soda. 

WINE. 
3    ixjunds    tetrazo    corinth      G,    30 
pounds  Glauber's,  3  pounds  saJ  soda. 

OLD  GOLD. 

2  pounds  diamine  fast  yellow  A,  1% 
pounds  diamine  brown  3G,  30  pounds 
Glauber's,  3  pounds  sal  soda. 

FINISHING. 

Cotton  Italians  are  finished  with  a 
calender  finish,  passed  through  a  cot- 
ton rolled  calender,  to  get  a  good  fin- 
ish, and  then  softened  down,  with  a 
light  beetling  on  a  beetling  machine,  or 
finished  altogether  on  a  beetling  mar 
chine. 

They  are  also  giyer>  a  hot  press  finish 
on  the  hydraulic  press  with  hot  press 
plates  and  papers,  to  imitate  the  worst- 
ed Italians. 


Beetling    Process  for   Finishing. 

The  beetling  process  for  finishing 
cotton  and  linen  piece  goods  is  one  of 
the  oldest  finishes  in  the  bleaching 
and  dyeing  trades. 

It  was  first  invented  in  the  linen 
bleacheries  of  the  north  of  Ireland  in 
the  Belfast  district.  The  first  beet- 
ling machines  were  very  crude  affairs 
compared  with  the  machines  now  in 
service. 

The  beam  on  which  the  cloth  was 
wound  was  a  large  tree  trunk  turned 
down  and  smoothed,  which  was  set 
in  motion  with  a  handle.  The  part  of 
the  machine  which  lifted  the  fallers 


was  also  turned  by  hand.  The  prin- 
ciple of  a  finish  by  a  beetling  machine 
is  simply  an  improvement  on  the  old 
mangle,  to  smooth  the  cloth,  and  fill  in 
the  spaces  between  the  threads,  mak- 
ing the  cloth  more  opaque,  and  show- 
ing the  ordinary  linen  finish.  A  good 
beetle  finish  is  also  a  permanent  fin- 
ish and  will  stand  sponging  and  Iron- 
ing. 

THE  NEW  BEETLES 
are  made  entirely  of  iron,  except  the 
fallers,  which  are  wooden.  The  cloth 
is  wound  on  the  iron  cylinder  or  beam, 
which  revolves  about  40  times  a  min- 
ute; the  fallers  are  lifted  by  cams  and 
fall  of  their  own  weight,  about  16 
inches  on  the  cloth,  from  40  to  50 
times  a  minute.  The  cloth  receives  by 
this  process  a  tremendous  hammering, 
and  where  10  or  more  machines  are  to- 
gether the  noise  is  simply  deafening. 
Goods  made  of  half  linen  and  half 
cotton  can  be  finished  to  look  like  all 
linen  goods,  and  in  some  goods  made 
of  all  cotton  the  finish  makes  the 
pieces  exactly  like  a  piece  of  linen, 
and  even 
AN  EXPERT  MAY  BE  DECEIVED 
thereby.  Some  goods  are  heavily 
starched  and  dryed,  then  sprinkled, 
put  on  the  beetles,  and  hammered  for 
four  or  five  days,  being  sprinkled  and 
turned  occasionally.  The  beetles  are 
run  night  and  day  with  two  crews.  In 
Ireland,  where  labor  is  cheap  and 
water  power  is  used,  the  finish  is  not 
very  expensive,  although  the  process 
is  very  long,  as  the  goods  are  often  on 
the  beetles  for  six  days.  Where 
steam  power  only  is  used,  the  finish  is 
almost  prohibitory  and  as  a  very  large 
and  expensive  plant  is  required  to 
turn  out  a  large  amount  of  goods,  not 
many  plants  of  any  great  capacity 
have  been  erected  in  this  country. 

The  largest  beetling  works  are 
those  of  the  Macnab  Co.,  Hurlet,  Pais- 
ley, Scotland.  There  are  about  100 
sections  of  beetles  there,  and  some 
very  fine  work  is  turned  out. 

A  GOOD  FINISH 
is  obtained  on  silesias  by  first  passing 
the  goods  through  a  calender  and  then 
giving  a  few  hours  on  the  beetle. 
Mather  and  Piatt,  of  Manchester,  have 
a  patent  beetle  with  spring  hammers 
instead  of  fallers.  This  machine  is 
said  to  be  good  for  some  finishes,  but 
many  prefer  the  old  wooden  faller  ma- 
chine. Any  width  of  cloth  can  be  fin- 
ished on  the  beetle.  Holland  shades 
of  over  ino  inches  in  width  are 
handled  with  ease,  and  the  width  of 
the  cloth  is  always  increased  during 
the  process  of  beetle  finish. 


132 


A  COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY. 


CHEESECLOTH, 


This  is  a  tliin  cotton  fabric  of  light 
weight  and  low  counts  of  yarn,  which 
for  cheapness  ranlis  among  the  first 
in  cotton  fabrics. 

The  fact  that  it  is  a  cheap  fabric  has 
much  to  do  with  its  popularity,  in  so 
far  that  it  is  used  for  innumerable  pur- 
lX)ses;  chief  among  which  we  may 
mention  that  it  is  used  for  wrapping 
cheeses  and  butter  after  they  are 
pi-essed,  for  these  purposes  only  the 
bleached  fabric  being  used.  It  is  also 
much  in  demand  for  bunting  for  fes- 
tal occasions,  for  light  curtains,  mas- 
querade dresses,  etc.  When  used  for 
buntings,  draperies  and  the  like,  it  is 
usually  in  colors.  Red,  blue,  cream  and 
yellow  bunting  seem  to  have  the 
greatest  demand. 

In  i;he  sample  which  will  now  be 
considered,  the  cheesecloth  is  of  a  fair 
quality;  the  weave  is  a  one  and  one,  or 
plain  weave;  there  is  very  little  variety 
in  the  designing. 

THE  CHIEF  OBJECT 
of  the  designer  in  constructing  a  fabric 
Off  this  character  is  to  find  the  least 
number  of  ends  and  picks  per  inch  re- 
quired, so  that  the  fabric  will  not  slip 
too  easily;  that  is,  if  the  cloth  is  taken 
between  the  thumb  and  first  finger  of 
each  hand,  and  the  thumbs  drawn 
away  from  each  other  over  the  surface 
■of  the  fabric  and  first  fingers,  the  ends, 
if  pulling  in  the  direction  of  the  filling, 
will  not  leave  their  proper  places  too 
easily,  or,  if  pulling  in  the  direction  of 
the  warp,  the  picks  or  filling  will  not 
give   too   easily. 

This  tendency  to  slip  is  entirely  due 
to  the  lack  of  material  necessary  to 
produce  a  perfect  or  firm  cloth. 
A  PERFECT  CLOTH 
may  be  defined  as  a  cloth  in  which 
the  warp  or  weft  yarns  are  equal  in 
diameter  and  the  spaces  between  the 
threads  are  equal  to  the  diameter  of 
the  yarn. 

For  instance,  let  us  construct  a  per- 
fe<"r  cloth  with  l-3Gs  cotton  yam  for 
both  warp  and  filling.  By  squaring 
tne  counts  we  find  the  diameter  of 
yarn  to  be  l-165th  part  of  an  inch; 
that  is.  165  threads  or  l-36s  will  lie 
side  by  side  in  one  inch,  and  by  sub- 
tracting one-half  of  the  165  to  allow 
for  the  space  required  for  the  inter- 
lacing with  the  weft  we  have  82  ends 
and  82  picks  necessary  for  one  inch  of 
cloth. 

In   the  sample  in   question    there  is 


only  about  half  the  number  necessary 
to  make  perfect  or  firm  cloth. 
ANALYSIS  OF  FABRIC. 

Width  of  warp  in  reed,  38  inches; 
width  of  fabric     finished,     36     inches. 

Ends  per  inch  in  reed,  42;  ends  per 
inch  in  finished  cloth,  45. 

Picks  per  inch  in  loom,  42;  picks  per 
inch,  finished,  42;  ends  in  warp,  1,620. 

Reed,  750x2. 

TaKC-up  of  warp  during  weaving,  6 
per  cent;  weight  of  cloth,  per  yard, 
from  loom,  1.7  ounces;  finished  weight 
per  yard,  practically  the  same. 

Warp,  all  l-36s  cotton  carded  peeler; 
filling,  all  l-36s  cotton  carded  peeler. 


BDBQsaan 

DBCaOBDa 

Bamauama 

nHOBOBBD 

■DBnaaaa 
L  aasaHaB 
BaaDaaaa 
Daaaaaaa 


Fis:  1. 


□DannnnanDnnnnna 

DDDDnnaDnDDDDDBa 

DDQnnBnDDDDanaDa 
□DnDBnaaDDanaDna 
DnDBaDaDDDUBDDaa 
□DaaanaDDDBDDDDa 
DBOCDnDnDannDDDa 
BaaoDDDnBQDDDDan 
Fig  2. 


Fig.  1,  design. 

Fig.   2,   drawing-in  draft. 
LOOM  REQUIRED. 

The  retail  price  of  cheesecloth,  5c. 
to  8c.  per  yard,  requires  that  it  be  wov- 
en on  a  high  running  speed  loom.  The 
Northrop  loom  would  be  about  the 
best,  running  at  about  200  picks  per 
minute.  If  the  warps  are  properly  sized 
a  weaver  can  take  care  of  10  to  16 
looms. 

FINISH. 

Cheesecloth  is  given  very  little 
finish.  After  it  comes  from  the  loom, 
it  passes  to  the  dyehouse,  where  it  is 
bleached  or  dyed  as  the  case  may  be; 
the  cloth  is  dyed  in  a  gig  dyeing  ma- 
chine. After  the  dyeing  it  is  passed 
through  a  rotary  press  with  cylinder 
slightly  heated,  after  which  it  is  folded 
and  is  then  ready  for  the  market. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  yarns  of  which  cheesecloth  are 
made  up  would  be  made  in  mills 
having  an  equipment  of  machinery  for 
making  coarse  or  medium  grade 
yarns.  There  are  several  kinds  and 
grades  of  cotton  used  for  the  manu- 
facture of  this  cloth  and  the  count  of 
yarn  varies,  but  not  to  such  a  varia- 
tion as  has  been  the  case  with  the 
cloths  that  have  been  described  in 
late  articles.  For  this  article  it  will 
be  considered  that  the  cotton  is  made 
up  of  a  medium  grade  of  cotton  of  1^ 
inches  length  of  staple  and  that  the 
count  of  the  yarn  for  both  warp 
and  filling  is  36s.        The  cotton  is  fed 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


133 


to  the  bale  breaker  (if  the  mill  con- 
tains one)  or  the  bales  are  placed 
around  the  mixing  bin  and  mixed  by 
hand. 

THE  HAND  MIXING 
does  not  give  as  uniform  a  mixing  as 
the  bale  breaker,  and  when  the  mixing 
is  done  bj^  hand  it  ought  to  stand  long- 
er before  being  used,  so  that  it  will 
drj'  out  thoroughly.  For  this  class  of 
goods  three  processes  of  picking  and  an 
opener  are  used.  The  good  waste 
cotton  is  mixed  direct  into  the  bin 
with  the  raw  stock  as  it  is  collected. 
The  cotton  is  then  fed  to  the  opener, 
which  is  generally  supplied  with  a 
porcupine  opener,  and  this  should  re- 
volve at  about  1,050  revolutions  per 
minute.  .From  the  opener  the  cotton 
is  conveyed  by  an  endless  apron  to 
teed  rolls  of  the  breaker  picker,  which 
condense  the  fluffy  mass  into  a  sheet 
and  offer  it  to  the  beater.  The  beat- 
er of  this  machine  and  also  of  the  in- 
termediate and  finisher  pickers  is  gen- 
erally of  the  rigid,  two-bladed  type. 
The  breaker  picker  makes  1,500  revo- 
lutions  per  minute,  the  total  weight  of 
the  lap  at  the  front  being  40  pounds, 
or  16  ounces  per  yard.  These  laps  are 
put  up  at  the  intermediate  picker  and 

DOUBLED  FOUR  INTO  ONE. 
The  beater  of  this  machine  should 
make  about  1,450  revolutions  per  min- 
ute, the  total  weight  of  a  lap  at  the 
front  being  37  pounds,  or  12  ounces  to 
the  yard.  The  laps  are  put  up  at  the 
finisher  picker  and  douDled  four  into 
one,  the  beater  making  1,450  revolu- 
tions per  minute,  and  the  total  weight 
of  the  lap  at  the  front  end  being  35 
pounds  or  12y2  ouuces  to  yard  of  lap. 
Keep  the  draught  of  the  pickers  on  the 
top  cage  as  this  will  help  to  prevent 
splitting  of  laps;  also  see  that  the  fly 
is  not  allowed  to  accumulate  to  any 
great  extent  under  the  machines. 
There  should  always  be  a  supply  of 
laps  ahead,  in  case  of  a  breakdown. 
Always  use  old  laps  first  and  not  the 
newly  made  ones.  The  laps  are  car- 
ried to  the  card.  The  draught  of  this 
machine  for  this  class  of  work  should 
not  exceed  100.  The  top  flats  should 
make  one  complete  revolution  every  50 
minutes.  Cards  should  be  set  for 
coarse  work,  using  No.  33  wire  on 
cvlinder  fillet,  and  No.  34  wire  on  dof- 
fer  and  top  flats.  Use  a  26  or  27  inch 
(uameter  doffer. 

THE  SLIVER 
should  weigh  65  grains  per  yard,  and 
the  production  for  a  week  of  60  hours 
should  be  750  pounds.  The  sliver  is 
put  through  three  processes  of  drawing. 
It  would  be  of  great  advantage  to  use 


metallic  rolls.  The  doublings  at  each 
process  are  six  into  one.  The  drawing 
sliver  is  put  through  the  slubber  and 
made  into  .50  hank  roving.  This 
roving  passes  through  two  processes  of 
fly  frames.  At  the  first  intermediate 
the  hank  roving  is  1.5G,  at  the  second 
intermediate  this  is  made  into  3.75 
hank,  and  at  the  fly  frame  7.50.  At  the 
fly  frame  watch  the  leather  top  rolls. 
The  bottom  steel  rolls  should  be  taken 
out  and  scoured  at  least  once  a  year. 
The  hank  roving  is  then  taken  to  the 
ring  spinning  room  or  the  roving  for 
the  filling  may  be  taken  to  the  mule 
room  and  made  into  36s  yarn.  If  taken 
to 

THE  SPINNING  ROOM, 

use  a  frame  having  the  following  par- 
ticulars (for  36s  filling):  Gauge  of 
frame,  2%  inches;  diameter  of  ring, 
1%  inches;  length  of  traverse,  6^/^ 
inches;  speed  of  spindles,  10,200  revo- 
lutions per  minute.  For  warp  yarns 
(36s),  use  2%  inches  gauge  of  frame; 
1%  inches  diameter  of  ring,  and  5i/^ 
inches  length  of  traverse,  with  spin- 
dles running  at  8,900  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  warp  yarn  is  then 
spooled,  warped  and  run  through  a 
slasher. 

Dyeing   Particulars. 

Cheesecloth  is  dyed  on  the  gig  ma- 
chine, or  in  the  starch  mangle  during 
the  starching  process. 

PINK. 
For  10  gallons  liquor,     3     pounds     8 
ounces     cornstarch     or     dextrine.     4-6 
ounces  Erika  pink,  2  pounds  Glauber's, 
1  pound  sal  soda. 

YELLOW. 
As  pink:  1  pound  chrysophenine. 

ROYAL  BLUE. 
As  pink;  2  pounds  alum,  no  sal  soda, 
1  pound  Victoria  blue  B. 
SCARLET. 

As  pink;  2  pounds  diamine  scarlet 
B. 

RED. 
As  pink;    3  pounds  benzo  purpurine 

4B. 

LIGHT  SLATE. 
As  pink;     8  ounces     diamine     black 
B  H,  1  ounce  diamine  fast  yellow  B. 
BROWN. 
As  pink;  2  pounds  benzo  fast  orange 
S,   2  pounds  chrysophenine,   %   pound 
benzo  fast  black. 

HELIOTROPE. 
As  pink;    1  pound  benzo  fast  violet 
R,  4  ounces  benzo  fast  blue   B  N. 


134 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


VELVETEEN. 


Velveteens,  also  termed  fustians  and 
velverets,  are  heavy  cotton  fabrics  in 
which  the  distinguishing  effect  is 
formed  by  the  points  of  the  fibres  in 
the  filling  yarns,  termed  the  pile,  be- 
ing presented  to   the  vision,  and  not 


Fit.  I  . 

the  sides  of  the  yarns  as  in  the  ma- 
jority of  fabrics. 

They  are  principally  used  for  dress 
and  hat  trimmings,  suitings,  and  up- 
holstery, having  exceptional  wearing 
qualities  and  showing  a  full,  deep  col- 
or. 

Corduroys  are  sometimes  termed 
velveteens,  the  same  principle  of  con- 


accomplish  this  the  goods  are  made 
with  a  comparatively  small  number  of 
ends  and  large  number  of  picks  per 
inch,  ranging  from  50  to  76  ends  and 
150  to  600  picks.  One  warp  only  is 
used. 

A  fairly  heavy  loom  is  necessary. 

Figures  1  and  2  illustrate  two  meth- 
ods of  arranging  the  whip  rolls  and 
yarn  when  weaving  some  of  the  heav- 
ier picked     goods.     In  each     figure  A 


represents  the  warp  beam  and  B  the 
whip  rolls.  The  dotted  line  indicates 
the  dire3tion  of  the  yarn. 

Standard  widths  for  velveteens  are 
19  inches,  22^^  inches,  24^^  inches  and 
2714  inches  or  28  inches.  For  the  lat- 
ter width  the  warp  is  spread  about 
33%  inches  in  the  loom.  The  weights 
for    2S-inch    goods    vary   from   one    to 


fio.4-. 


»i*.5 


struction  being  adopted  in  both  fab- 
rics, but  a  corduroy  is  distinguished 
by  having  a  corded  stripe  effect  run- 
ning lengthways  of  the  piece,  the  di- 
viding line  between  each  stripe  show- 
ing both  warp  and  filling. 

In  the  simplest  type  of  velveteens 
the  pile  filling,  after  being  cut,  hides 
the  warp  entirely  from  the  face.     To 


three  and  one-half  yards  per  pound. 

The  goods  are  usually  woven  two  or 
more  widths  in  the  loom,  with  split 
selvedges. 

In  order  that  the  fabric  may  remain 
firm  after  the  pile  picks  are  cut, 
ground  or  binder  picks  are  inserted 
regularly,  working  either  plain  or  twill 
as   may   be    desired.     The   filling   for 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


135 


these  picks  is  similar  to  that  used  for 
the  pile,  only  one  shuttle  being  used. 

Figure  3  is  a  design  tor  a  velveteen, 
arranged  one  ground  and  three  pile 
picks,  the  ground  weave  being  plain. 
The  dravi^ing-in  draft  is  straight  on  6 
harnesses,  1  to  6.  The  selvedges  are 
woven  with  a  selvedge  motion. 

The  ends  are  reeded  2  in  each  dent. 

The  chain  draft  is  similar  to  the 
weave.  Fig.  3. 

Six  ends  and  eight  picks  repeat. 

Figure  4  shows  a  sectional  view  of 
the  cloth  before  being  cut.  Figure  5 
shows  the  same  with  the  pile  cut.  Let- 
tered circles  in  these  figures  corre- 
spond to  ends,  and  numbered  lines  to 
picks,  in  Figure  3. 

An  analysis  of  two  fabrics  woven 
with  design,  Figure  3,  shows  the  fol- 
lowing: 

Sample  No.  1:  76  ends  and  192 
picks  per  inch;  28s  warp  and  40s  fill- 
ing; width  23  Inches;  weight  4.35 
5'-ards  per  pound. 

This  is  a  velveteen  of  poor  quality. 

Sample  No.  2  is  of  a  good  quality. 
It  contains  76  ends  and  375  picks  per 


8  nnnnen 
7  DDtJnca 
6  sanaan 
5  aaoBaa 
4  naaDBn 
3  naannn 
2  maaaaa 

AB  CD  EF 

Fig.  S. 


aamaum 


aaoDSDMa 

BafflDDDoa 
DBDBaaDa 

SDDnDDEaD 
DDDDffiDSD 

Fu'  7. 


□anrnnna 
DaDEBDnaa 

DDDDDDDffl 

DaaaDBoa 

DDDnEBDDD 

naDDDnffiD 
aanaaDaa 

Fig. y. 


inch,  2-ply  60s  warp  and  55s  filling, 
and  the  weight  is  3.35  yards  per 
pound. 

Some  velveteens  are  sold  by  weight, 
similar  to  men's  wear  fabrics,  so  many 
ounces  per  yard. 

Another  standard  fabric  woven  with 
design  Figure  3  is  as  follows:  74 
ends,  260  picks,  2-ply  70s  warp,  60s  fill- 
ing. 

Figure  6  shows  a  design  with  a  3- 
end  twill  ground,  arranged  one  ground 
and  three  pile  picks.  The  drawing-in 
draft  is  straight,  reed  draft,  2  ends 
per  dent,  chain  draft  same  as  weave, 
repeated  to  18  picks.     Selvedges  extra. 

Figure  7  shows  a  design  for  what  is 
termed  a  fast  back  velveteen,  arranged 
one  ground  and  four  pile  picks.  When 
each  pile  pick  is  tied  under  two  ends, 
as  in  this  example,  the  effect  is  not  so 
good  as  when  tied  only  once,  but  the 
wearing  qualities  are  improved. 

In  the  preceding  examples  it  will 
be  seen  that  the  pile  filling  is  bound 
only  on  every  other  end. 

Figure  8  illustrates  a  design  in 
which  the  pile  is  bound  In  on  every 
«nd.  This  type  makes  a  firm  texture 
but  does  not  admit  of  a  large  number 


of  piclvs,  therefore  the  pile  cannot  be 
made  very  full. 

PURPOSES. 

For  dress  and  trimming  purposes 
velveteens  are  usually  of  a  solid  col- 
or, being  piece  dyed. 

For  upholstery  purposes  the  goods 
are  dyed,  printed,  embossed  or 
stamped.  Panel  and  stripe  patterns 
are  also  made  by  cutting  a  raised  fig- 
ure on  an  uncut  ground,  or  vice  versa, 
by  painting  or  by  the  pyrogravure 
process,  burning. 

When 

STAMPING 

velveteens  the  goods  are  passed  be- 
tween two  cylinders.  The  upper  cylin- 
der is  of  iron  and  is  heated  from  the 
inside.  The  pattern  is  engraved  or 
sunk  into  this.  The  lower  cylinder  is 
of  hard  wood.  The  pile  is  compressed 
by  the  projecting  part  of  the  upper  cyl- 
inder, causing  the  pattern  to  stand 
out  in  relief  from  a  dull  ground.  Of 
vice  versa. 

PAINTING   ON  VELVETEENS 
is  essentially  a  hand  process.    The  col- 
ors have  to  be  free  from  oil  that  they 
may  not  spread  beyond  the  limits  in- 
tended. 

In  the  pyrogravure  process  of  mak- 
ing patterns  on  velveteens,  the  sketch 
is  first  made  and  placed  in  a  panto- 
graph machine.  With  a  platinum 
stylus  heated  to  redness  the  operator 
then  burns  out  the  pile  along  the  lines 
traced,  leaving  a  very  clear  pattern. 

From  the  time  a  velveteen  leaves 
the  loom  to  the  time  it  Is  ready  for 
cutting,  it  has  to  be  passed  through 
several  processes.  It  is  first  put 
through  a 

BACK  STARCHING  AND  DRYING 
MACHINE. 

After  drying,  the  better  grades  are 
raised  on  the  under  side  to  make  a 
softer  feeling  cloth.  The  lower  qual- 
ities are  not  raised  on  account  of  the 
tendency  for  the  process  to  weaken 
the  cloth. 

The  goods  are  then,  while  under  ten- 
sion, saturated  with  a  weak  milk  of 
lime,  the  solution  being  brushed  into 
them  on  the  face  side. 

The  next  process  is  drying.  This  Is 
done  by  a  device  in  which  rods  are  au- 
tomatically inserted  below  the  fabric, 
so  that  the  latter  hangs  down  In  loops. 

After  drying,  the  cloth  is  folded  and 
passed  to  the  brushing  machine.  This 
machine  removes  the  lime  and  loosens 
the  filling  floats  so  that  the  knife  can 
readily  enter  beneath  them. 

The    cutting    process    proper    now 


13C 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


takes  place,  being  done  either  by  ma- 
chinery or  by  hand. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  fabric  for  which  the  carding  and 
spinning  particulars  are  given  below 
is  made  up  in  several  grades.  For  this 
article  only  two  grades  will  be  con- 
sidered, a  coarse  one  having  a  warp  of 
l-28s  and  l-40s  filling;  and  a  fine 
grade,  the  warp  yam  of  which  is  2-70s 
and  with  a  filling  of  2-60s  yam.  This 
fabric,  all  grades,  would  be  made  either 
in  the  second  or  third  division  of  mills 
as  gi-\  en  in  a  previous  lesson.  We  will 
consider 

THE  COARSER  GRADE 
first.  This  would  be  made  from  a  me- 
dium grade  1  5-lG  inch  staple  cotton 
and  run  through  the  bale  breaker  with 
blower  and  endless  lattice  connections, 
so  that  it  will  reach  the  mixing  bins 
in  a  dry,  open  state.  When  feeding 
the  bale  breaker  do  not  feed  one  entire 
lap  before  starting  on  another.but  open 
several  laps  around  the  bale  breaker 
and  feed  from  each  bale  alternately. 
The  mixing  should  be 

AS  LARGE  AS  POSSIBLE, 
so  that  there  will  be  less  variation  in 
the  yam  than  when  small  mixings  are 
used.  The  good  waste  from  the  ma- 
chines up  to  the  slubber  is  mixed  in- 
to the  bin  as  it  is  collected.  The  cotton 
is  next  put  through  an  opener  and 
either  2  or  3  processes  of  pickers.  It  is 
the  general  custom  nowadays  to  use  2 
processes,  but  the  particulars  for  three 
processes  will  be  given.  If  one  process 
is  left  out,  use  particulars  given  for 
breaker  and  finisher  pickers.  Feed  the 
Hopper  of  the  opener  so  that  it  is  al- 
ways more  than  half  full,  because  the 
more  cotton  there  is  in  the  hopper  the 
more  cotton  will  be  taken  up  by  the 
spiked  apron  and  thus  a  more  even 
sheet  will  be  presented  to  the  beater, 
which  is  generally  of  a  porcupine  type 
and  is  speeded  up  to  1,000  revolutions 
per  minute.  The  speed  of  the  beater 
at  the  breaker  picker  is  1,500  revolu- 
tions per  minute.  The  total  weight 
of  laps  at  the  front  of  this  machine  is 
40  pounds  or  a  16-ounce  lap.  These 
laps  are 

DOUBLED  FOUR  INTO  ONE 

at  the  intermediate.  At  this  machine 
the  speed  of  the  beater  is  1,450  revolu- 
tions per  minute.  The  total  weight  of 
the  lap  at  the  front  is  37  pounds  or  a 
10-ounce  lap.  These  laps  are  doubled 
four  into  one  at  the  finisher  picker,  the 
total  weight  of  a  lap  at  the  front  be- 
ing 39  pounds  or  1414  ounce  lap.     The 


speed  of  this  beater  is  1,450  revolutions- 
per  minute,  which  gives  the  cotton 
passing  thi'ough  it  42  blows  or  beats 
per  inch.  Each  lap,  as  it  is  taken  from 
the  front  of  the  finisher  picker,  should 
be  weighed  and  all  those  laps  ranging 
over  a  half  a  pound  from  the  standard, 
either  way  (light  or  heavy),  should  be 
run  over  again.     The 

CUT   ROVING  WASTE 

is  mixed  in  at  the  back  of  the  finisher 
picker  in  proportion  of  one  lap  of  rov- 
ing waste  to  three  laps  of  raw  stock. 
The  cut  roving  waste  has  to  go 
through  a  special  process  to  take  out 
twist  and  from  here  it  is  put  through 
a  picker  which  forms  it  into  a  lap, 
then  it  is  mixed  with  the  raw  stock  as 
above.  From  the  picker  the  laps  are 
taken  to  the  card.  The  draft  of  this 
machine  should  be  about  110.  The  set- 
tings should  be  medium  and  the  wire 
fillet  used  would  be  No.  35  for  doffer 
and  flats  and  No.  34  for  cylinder.  The 
speed  of  the  top  flats  should  be  one 
complete  revolution  every  40  minutes. 
The  sliver  at  the  front  should  weigh 
65  grains  per  yard  and  the  produc- 
tion for  a  week  of  60  hours  should  be 
about  800  pounds.  The  sliver  is  then 
put  through 

THREE  PROCESSES  OF  DRAWING, 
the  doublings  at  each  process  being  six 
into  one. 

The  speed  of  the  front  roll  is  400  rev- 
olutions per  minute  at  each  process. 
The  sliver  should  weigh  about  70 
grains  per  yard.  This  is  then  put 
through  the  slubber  and  made  into  .50 
hank  roving.  The  roving  to  be  used 
for  28s  yarn  is  put  through  two  proc- 
esses of  fly  frames,  the  hank  roving  at 
the  first  intermediate  being  2  and  at 
the  second  being  6.  This  is  then 
taken  to  the  ring  spinning  room  and 
made  into  28s  yarn  on  a  warp  frame 
having  the  following  particulars: 
Gauge  of  frame,  2%  inches;  diameter 
of  ring,  1%  inches;  length  of  traverse, 
61/2  inches;  speed  of  spindles,  9,700  rev- 
olutions per  minute.  From  here  it  is 
passed  through  the  spooler,w^hich  takes 
the  yarn  from  the  cop  and  winds  it 
onto  a  spool.  From  here  it  Is  wound 
onto  a  beam  and  several  of  these 
beams  are  put  up  at  the  ends  and  run 
through  the  slasher  and  wound  on  to 
a  beam  at  the  front,  which  has  the  re- 
quired number  of  ends  required  for  the 
warp  of  the  fabric. 

THE    SLUBBER   ROVING 

for  filling  yam  is  put  through  three 
processes  of  fly  frames,  the  hank  rov- 
ing 1.50  at  the     flrst    intermediate.     4^ 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


137 


blank  at  the  second  and  8  hank  at  the 
last  frame.  This  roving  for  filling  may 
be  taken  to  either  the  mule  room  or 
the  ring  spinning  room  to  be  made  in- 
to 40s.  We  will  consider  it  to  be  taken 
to  the  ring  spinning  room  and  spun 
on  a  frame  having  the  following  par- 
ticulars: Gauge  of  frame,  2%  inches; 
diameter  of  ring,  1%  inches;  length  of 
traverse,  5%  inches. 

FOR  THE  FINER  GRADES 
of  velveteen  the  foregoing  general 
particulars  may  be  used,  but  substitut- 
ing the  following  for  60s  and  70s  yam: 
Use  lYz  inches  staple  cotton;  at  the 
pickers  the  total  weight  of  lap  at  the 
front  is  40  pounds  or  16-ounce  lap  at 
the  beater  and  35  pounds  or  12-ounce 
lap  at  finisher,  no  intermediate  picker 
being  used.  At  the  card  the  top  flats 
should  make  one  complete  revolution 
everj"-  40  minutes,  the  weight  of  sliver 
at  front  being  65  gTains  and  produc- 
tion about  500  pounds  per  week. 

THE  DRAFT 
should  not  be  less  than  120.  Sometimes 
the  filling  yarn  is  combed,  but  we  will 
consider  this  yarn  to  be  carded  and  so 
it  will  be  put  through  three  processes 
of  drawing.  At  the  slubber  the  sliver 
is  drawn  into  .55  hank  iT)ving  and  for 
both  warp  and  filling  is  put  through 
three  processes  of  fiy  frames,  the  hank 
roving  being  as  follows:  To  make  70s 
yam:  firet  intermediate.  1.50  hank; 
second,  4  hank;  and  jack  frames,  14 
hank.  To  make  60s  yaa-n:  first  inter- 
mediate, 1.50;  second,  4  hank;  and  fine, 
12  hank.  The  14  hank  i-oving  is  taken 
and  spun  into  70s  yarn  on  a 

WARP  SPINNING  FRAME 
fitted  up  as  follows:  Gauge  of  frame  2% 
inches;  diameter  of  ring,  1%  inches; 
speed  of  spindles,  10,000  revolutions  per 
minute;  length  of  traverse  5%  inches. 
From  here  it  is  spooled,  then  twisted 
into  2-ply  and  spooled  again,  warped 
and  put  through  the  slasher.  The  12 
roving  to  be  made  into  60s  yarn  may 
be  taken  either  to  the  mule  room  or 
the  ring"  spinning  room.  If  taken  to 
the  ring  frame,  use  a  frame  having  the 
following:  Gauge  of  frame  2%  inches; 
diameter  of  ring,  lH  inches;  length  of 
traverse,  5  inches.  The  yam  is  then 
twisted  into  2-60s. 


Dyeing   Particulars. 

Velveteen  is  dyed  on  the  jigger  ma- 
chine in  15  gallons  of  liquor  at  175  de- 
grees F.;  for  30  pounds  of  goods,  one- 
half  pound  soda  ash,  one-quarter  pound 
sulphide  sodium,  1  pound  salt;  boil  up 
tne  liquor,  add    the  soda,  sodium    sul- 


phide and  salt  before  adding  the  dye- 
stuff,  strain  through  a  piece  of  calico 
into  the  jigger. 

The  goods  are  run  for  30  to  GO  min- 
utes; rinse  well  in  water  after  dyeing. 

ECRU. 
4  ounces  immedial  bronze  A,  after- 
treat  with  Vz  per  cent  bichrome.  1/2  per 
cent  sulphate  copper. 

LIGHT  SLATE. 
4  ounces  immedial    black    V,    after- 
treat  %  per  cent  bichrome,  i4  per  cent 
sulphate  copper. 

PEARL. 
11/^   ounces  immedial  black  V.   l^/^ 
ounces  immedial  brown  B,  aftea-treat  as 

FAWN  DRAB. 
12    ounces    immedial    bronze     A,      2 
ounces  immedial  brown  B. 

LIGHT  BROWN. 

1  pound  immedial  brown  B,  4  ounces 
immedial  cutch  O,  1  pound  sulphide  so- 
dium. 

MEDIUM  BROWN. 
i'2  pound  immedial  yelloAv  D,  1  pound 
immedial  brown  B,  Vz  pound  immedial 
cutch  O,  1%  pounds  sulphide  sodium. 
DARK  BROWN. 
20  pounds  salt,  I/2  p«:>und  soda  ash,  5 
pounds   sulphide,    Vz    pound   immedial 
black  N  R  T  sodium,  8  pounds  imme- 
dial brown  B. 

NAVY  BLUE. 
Dye  as  ecru  with  2  pounds  immedial 
blue  C,  2  pounds  sodium  sulphide,  % 
pound  soda  ash,  10  pounds  .salt;  rinse 
and  top  with  methylene  blue  N.  and 
shade  with  methyl  violet  B. 
BLACK. 

2  pounds  immedial  black  V,  2  pounds 
sodium  sulphide,  %  pound  soda  ash,  10 
pounds  salt;  rinse  and  top  with  a  one- 
dip  black,  or  paint  with  Prussian  blue. 

INDIGO  BLUE. 

FV^r  30  pounds  goods  in  jigger,  1 
to  5  pounds  pyrogene  indigo,  1  to  5 
pounds  sodium  sulphide,  1  to  2  pounds 
soda  ash,  5  to  15  pounds  salt,  y^  to  1 
pint  mineral  oil;  rinse  and  soap,  top 
with  methylene  blue. 

A  large  number  of  one  dip  colors 
are  also  dyed  on  velveteens,  from  light 
to  daxk  shades.  Although  the  colors  are 
not  so  fast  as  sulphur  colors,  they  are 
sufficiently  fast  for  some  trades. 

After  dyeing,  the  goods  are  topped 
with  basic  colors,  as  methyl  violet  with 
methylene  blue,  Bismarck  brown  and 
other  bright  colors. 

For  30  pounds  of  goods.  3  pounds  di- 


138. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


amine  green,  20  pounds  salt,  1  pound 
sal  soda;   top  with  Malachite  green. 

SULPHUR     GREEN, 

2  pounds  immedial  Indone  B  B,  1 
pound  immedial  yellow  D,  2  pounds 
sulphide  soda,  1  pound  soda  ash,  10 
pounds  salt.  Rinse  and  top  with 
brilliant  green  or  Malachite  green. 


tion  and  a  race  in   the     other     piece 
when    returning.    Assuming     that     a 


VELVETEEN  CUTTING. 

Velveteen  cutting  is  one  of  the  proc- 
esses incident  to  making  cloth  that  is 
still,  to  a  considerable  extent,  done  by 
hand  for  practical  purposes,  although 
machines  are  now  in  constant  use  for 
accomplishing  the  same  results. 

The  object  of  cutting  is  to  present 
to  the  vision  the  points,  instead  of  the 
sides,  of  the  fibres  in  the  filling. 

Fig.  1  illustrates  the  tj^e  of  knife 
used  when  the  cutting  is  done  by 
hand.  The  guide  A  is  inserted  in  a 
race  of  the  cloth,  and  raises  the  fill- 
ing to  the  cutting  edge  B  as  it  is 
forced  along. 

The  cutting  is  generally  done  with 
the  blade  of  the  knife  held  in  a  verti- 
cal position,  so  as  to  cut  the  filling  in 
the  centre  of  the  float. 

A  STRIPE  EFFECT 

is  obtained,  either  intentionally  or  un- 
intentionally,by  varying  the  position  of 
the  knife  to  the  left,  centre  or  right, 
if  two  or  three  positions  are  held 
while  cutting  the  same  piece.  Instead 
of  cutting  with  the  knife  inclined  first 
one  way  and  then  the  other,  to  right 
and  left,  when  making  stripes  with  an 
ordinary  weave,  knives  with  two 
blades  are  sometimes  used  to  make 
both  cuts  at  once,  one  blade  being  a 
little  shorter  than  the  other. 
There  are 

TWO  METHODS 

of  cutting  velveteens  by  hand:  (a)  the 
long-frame  method;  (b)  the  short- 
frame  method.  In  both  these  the  cloth 
is  first  stretched  over  rollers  to  a  suit- 
able tension. 

In  long-frame  cutting,  two  pieces  are 
generally  arranged  parallel  to  each 
other,  about  10  or  12  yards  long,  with 
room  enough  for  the  cutter  to  pass  be- 
tween. The  cutter  cuts  one  race  in 
one  piece  when  walking  in  one  direc- 


O 


24-inch  velvet  with  900  races  is  re- 
quired to  be  cut,  the  cutter  will  have 
to  walk  900xl0,which  equals  9,000  yds.. 


A   COTTON   FABRICS   GLOcSARY. 


139' 


or  over  5  miles  to  cut  10  yards.  This  il- 
lustrates how  laborious  the  hanrl  cut- 
ting process  is. 

IN  SHORT-FRAME  CUTTING, 
about  two  yards  of  cloth  are  cut  before 
a  change  is  made.  Here  the  cutter, 
with  a  peculiar  swing  of  the  body, 
forces  the  knife  to  the  end  of  the  two 
yards. 

Considerable  skill  is  required  in  a 
good  cutter,  as  a  wrong  movement  is 
liable  to  damage  the  piece,   either  by 


tained  by  hand  cutting,  the  blades  be- 
ing inserted  below  the  filling  so  as  to 
force  the  poiats  of  the  filling  upwards 
as  they  are  cut.  The  disc  cutters  cut 
the  filling  from  the  top  of  the  cloth 
downwards,  the  resulting  pile  being 
inferior  to  that  cut  by  the  blades. 

BLADE  CUTTERS 
are  of  two  kinds,  single  and  multiple. 
The  former  have  so  far  given  the  most 
satisfactory  results  on  account  of    the 
difficulty  of  keeping  the  several  blades 


.""^ 


'Fig.  2. 


running  the  knife  through  it  or  by  cut- 
ting at  the  side  instead  of  the  centre  of 
the  race. 

The  amount  of  seconds  in  velveteens 
is  very  large,  there  being  many  of 
them  made  after  they  leave  the  loom, 
as  well  as  during  the  process,  of  weav- 
ing. The  least  imperfection  in  weav- 
ing will  cause  trouble  in  cutting. 

TWO  KINDS  OF  MACHINES. 

Machines  for  cutting  velveteens  are 

of  two   kinds,   blade   cutters,   and   disc 

or  circular  cutters.     The  blade  cutters 

most  nearly   approach   the   results   at- 


in  a  multiple  machi  ;e  in  perfect  align- 
ment with  each  other. 

The  blades  are  similar  to  those  used 
when  cutting  by  hand,  except  that 
they  are  smaller. 

With  a  single  blade  one  race  is  cut 
at  a  time,  either  in  lengths  of  12  yards 
or  the  entire  piece,  aid  it  is  necessary 
to  repeat  the  operation  for  eacli  race 
in  the  cloth.     The 

BLADE   MACHINES   PROPER 
are  of  two  kinds,  those  in  which  the 
k   ives  are  stationary,   the  full  length 
of  cloth   being   passed   through   in   an 


140 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


endless  form,  and  those  in  which  the 
cloth  is  stationary,  stretched  on  a  long 
table,  and  the  knives  have  a  horizon- 
tal movement. 

Both  of  these  types  of  machines  are 
fitted  with  either  mechanical  or  elec- 
trical stop  motions,  which  cause  them 
to  stop  immediately  a  knife  jumps  out 


Figs.  2  and  3  illustrate  a  continuous 
cutting  machine  with  four  knives. 

Cloth  cut  by  a  machine  of  this  type 
is  claimed  to  be  of  a  superior  quality, 
because  there  is  no  necessity  to  take 
the  knives  out  every  few  yards,  as  is 
the   case   in   hand   cutting. 

In  addition  to  tne  regular  tension  de- 


Fig-. 


or  meets  with  an  obstructio:i  when 
cutting,  or  when  the  end  of  the  race 
is  reached. 

Machine  cutters  require  the 
CONSTANT  ATTENTION 
of  a  skilled  mechanic  to  keep  them 
in  proper  condition.  If  they  are  are 
not  kept  sharp  and  exactly  to  gauge, 
the  pile  will  appear  stripey,  due  to 
unr-ven    cutting. 


vices  for  holding  the  piece  tight,  there 
are  special  plates  arranged  for  hold- 
ing and  supporting  the  fabric  imme- 
diately under  the  race  being  cut.  The 
mechanism  is  so  arranged  that  the 
knives,  plates,  etc.,  are  all  moved  .si- 
multaneously,   after   each   cut. 

THE   KNIVES 
are  mounted  on  hinged  arms  in  such 
a  manner  that  they  lie  upon  the  fab- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  G-LOSSARY, 


ric  as  it  is  fed  forward,  and  so  con- 
tinuously cut  it.  Thie  mounting  of 
the  l^nives  is  of  sucli  a  character  that 
in  the  event  of  an  accident,  the  worst 
that  can  happen  is  the  puncture  of  the 
fabric,  but  the  hole  so  made  is  only  a 
small  one,  as  the  knife  is  instantly  re- 
leased and  the  machine  stopped. 

When  the  end  of  a  race  is  reached 
the  knives  are  readjusted  and  another 
set  of  races  cut. 

The 

DISC    CUTTING   MACHINES 

are  fitted  with  cutting  discs  of  steel 
plate,  accurately  gauged  and  well- 
sharpened,  mounted  on  a  shaft,  run- 
ning at  a  speed  of  about  3,000  revolu- 
tions per  minute.  They  are  sharpened 
automatically,  while  the  machine  is  in 
motion.  The  number  of  these  cutters 
depends  on  the  number  of  races  to  be 
cut. 

The  discs  run  inside  small  iron  tri- 
angles, which  serve  as  guides.  These 
guides  are  placed  in  the  races  of  the 
cloth  by  hand,  and  the  piece  is  cut  as 
it  is  drawn  forward  by  the  machine. 

The 

PRODUCTION  OF  A  DISC     CUTTER 

is  much  greater  than  that  of  a  blade 
cutter. 

The  disc  machine  effects  quite  a 
saving  in  cutting  corduroys,  these  fab- 
rics not  having  as  many  races  as  vel- 
veteens. 

Devices  for  cutting  the  pile  filling 
during  the  process  of  weaving  have 
been  tried,  but  have  not  met  with  suc- 
cess. One  objection  to  this  method  is 
that  the  goods  cannot  be  finished  sat- 
isfactorily, the  pile  pulling  out,  if 
handled  too  severely. 


12  inches  and  ai'e  about   l-S(M)th   n(  an 
inch  in  diameter. 

The   wool   after   it   comes   from    the 
sheep   is   sorted   both  for   quality   and 


BRILLIANTINE. 

Brilliantine  is  a  dress  fabric,  re- 
sembling alpaca,  but  of  superior  quali- 
ty and  sometimes  finished  on  both 
sides.  Brilliantines  are  made  with  a 
cotton  warp  and  lustre  worsted  filling. 
Lustre  wool  is  grown  in  Indiana  and 
Kentucky  and  is  commonly  known  in 
the  trade  as  braid  wool. 

Lustre  wools  are  more  extensively 
grown  in  England.  The  best  qualities 
are  grown  in  Lincolnshire.  The  fibres 
of  Lincolnshire  lustre  range  from  8  to 


Fis 


lustre  and  the  higher  the  degree  of 
lustre  the  more  adaptable  it  is  for 
fancy  shades,  while  the  dull  or  semi- 
lustre  is  only  used  for  dark  colors. 


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BBBBaaaBBBLjaaaaBaaBBBBaaBaBBDD^auBaa 
BaaajaaaaGaaDaaaaaaaauaoaaBaoaDnaaBB 
■BaaaaBaaauaaaaaBBaBaai^BBaaaGaaaGBBB 
■aGGGaaaauauaaaaaaBaaaaaaaaaaLBakaaa 
aQaaBBLjuaaaaaaBBBBaaaaaaaDDaaB-aPBaa 
nGaaajaaaaaaaaaaaGaaaaaaacaaaaDaaaaa 
nnGaDaaaaaaaaaaaaaG'DGaaaaaaaDDaaaaca 
DGaGaaaaaGGaaaaaDGauaaaaaaacjLaaaaaaa 
GaaaaaaBaGaaaaDaGGGaGBaaaaaGGaBaGGaa 
BGBaaaBGaGGaBGGaaGBGBaaBBGGLaaaaGoaa 
■■■aBBaaGGaaaGGGaagaaaaaGGGcaauaGaaa 
aaaaBaaGaGBaaGaBBGGaaaBQOGaGBaaGBBaa 
■aaaGGGGGa  aaaa aGGaaaaGGGOGaGGaaaana 
■aaGGGaGaGaaaBaGGGaaaGccGGaaaaaaaGGa 

BaGGGGGBGBBaaa jaaaaBGGGGGBGBBBBBGGGD 

BGaGGGaaaaaaaaaaaaaaDaGGBGaBBBBCGGan 
DaGGBBGaaBBBaaGGaaQGCGBBcnBaBBBcaaGa 
aGaa«GaBaaBaGaGaaGnGBBBGBBBBBBa.  noaa 
BBBBaaaBBBGaGGGBGaaBaBnraaBBaaQDQgan 
BBaGGGBBBGaGGaBGaaaBanDGBBcacaGaaBaB 
aaGaaaaaGGGGaaGaaaaanraaaGGnaGGGaDaa 
BGGnaaaGaaaGaaaaaBaGGaGaaoGGaaGaaaBB 
aGanaBaaaaaaaBBBaaGGnoBBGDGCBBGBBBBB 
DGGaaGaaaaaGGaaaaa^nQGaGncaaaccBBBiig 

aaaBGGBaBBGGBBBBaGGarHCaBBBBgGBBBBgg 

GGaGB8»BBGnaBBaGGG.:^GBGBBBaBagrBBBggD 
nBGBBaaBaaGBBanGGnaaGBBBBBgcgBBBgggg 
aGaBBBBGGGnaBGaannBnBaBBBaGgcaBDgggn 
GBBBBHGG  'aaaan^naanaaBaBnGCcaaGGaaaB 
nBBaBGaannBnnnBaanaaaaaQGGnnHGGQaaag 
BBBBaGanaanpaaaaGGaaaaGaQGaaaaaaaaDg 

BBBnaGGaBGBBBBBnGGBBBaGQGGB'-^BBBBBGgg 
BBGaaQGBnBBBBBanGBBBGGaOGBGBBPBBgggB 
BGGnGGBGBBBBBGGGGBBGGnnaBGBBBBBGGaGB 

Flff.  2. 

Brilliantines  are  sometimes  woven 
with  undyed  weft  yarn  and  very  rarely 
if  ever  with  undyed  warp  yarn.     They 


142 


A   COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY. 


are  commonly  made  with  both  warp 
and  weft  yarns  dyed  previous  to  weav- 
ing. The  warp  yarn  may  be  the  same 
color  as  weft  or  it  may  be  entirely  dif- 
ferent. If,  however,,  a  one-colored  fab- 
ric is  desired  and  it  is  to  be  made  with 
undyed  weft  yarn,  the  warp  yarn  must 
be  dyed,  previous  to  weaving,  the  same 
color  as  the  weft  will  be  dyed  after  the 
fabric  is  woven.  The  warp  being  cot- 
ton will  not  take  color  in  a  wool  dye 
bath. 

Fig.  1  shows  sample  in  which  both 
warp  and  weft  are  dyed  previous  to 
weaving.  The  warp  is  light  brown 
and  the  weft  is  a  medium  shade  of 
green.  This  contrast  of  colors  in  con- 
nection with  the  weave  gives  the  fab- 
ric 

A  VERY  PRETTY  EFFECT. 

Any  combination  of  colors  may  be 
used.  A  very  important  factor  to  con- 
sider in  making  brilliantines  is  the 
weave.  The  object  is  to  have  as  much 
weft  floating  on  the  face  of  fabric  as 
warp,  and  in  figured  brilliantines  the 

c — zzzzz~z_Z-azz;Lju 

cz^zzzzzzczzBzzzzg 

C~ZZZZZZZZZHZZZ_3a 
DZZZZZZZZZBZZZZZZa 
DZZZZZZZZBZZZZZZZZl 

nnzzzzz~B~z"zzzzm 
D~zzz--Bzz-z^zzzzn 

CZZZZZBZZZ^ZZZ^ZZin 

CZZZZBZZ~ZZZZZZDDZI 

c^-ZBZZ" zz-z^^Q-zn 
czzB-zzz-zz-zzzzzz 
c~m  zzzzzzzzz-zzzc 
□■zzzczz""'"Z"^znzizDZ 
■□DaDzzzzDzaGDnaai:, 

Fig.  3. 


figure  must  in  all  cases  be  a  weft  float- 
ing figure.  The  reason  for  this  is  ob- 
vious when  a  lustrous  fabric  is  de- 
sired. 

The  design  in  Fig.  2,  of  which  two 
repeats  are  shown,  both  warp  way  and 
filling  way,  shows  the  filling  to  float 
on  the  face  of  the  fabric  in  exact  pro- 
portions to  the  float  of  waiT). 

Very  pretty  effects  are  obtained  with 
a  plain  ground  weave  with  a  small 
jacquard  figure,  and  when  a  very  lus- 
trous fabric  is  wanted,  the  warp  yam 
is  of  finer  counts  than  weft  yarn. 

ANALYSIS  OF  FABRIC. 

Width  of  warp  in  reed  (without  sel- 
vedge). 42%  inches;  width  of  fabric 
finished,  40  inches;  ends  per  inch  in 
reed,  60;  ends  per  inch  finished,  64; 
ends  in  warp,  2,535 — light  brown;  60 
ends  selvedge,  white  (30  ends  each 
side),  equals  2,395. 

Reed  30x2  equals  60  ends. 

Take-up  of  warp  during  weaving  6 
per  cent.  Weight  of  fabric     per    yard 


from  loom  5  ounces;  weight  of  fabric 
finished  practically  the   same. 

Body  of  warp  2-40s  cotton  dyed;  sel- 
vedge 2-40s  cotton  undyed. 

Brilliantines,  mohairs  and  alpacas 
are  usually  made  with  different  colored 
selvedge  yarn  than  the  body  of  warp. 

Filling  all  l-30s  lustre  worsted,  of 
about  a  ^4  blood  stock. 

Fig.  3  shows  drawing-in  draft — 
drawn  in  on  18  harnesses  straight  draw, 
pattern  repeats  on  18  ends  and  18  picks. 

LOOM  REQUIRED. 
For  small  figured  brilliantine  a 
Knowles  dobby  loom  would  be  about 
the  best.  Large  figures  require  a  jac- 
quard loom;  brilliantines  usually  re- 
quire only  one  kind  of  filling,  conse- 
quently a  box  loom  is  not  necessary, 
but  in  order  to  keep  the  shade  of  weft 
as  even  as  possible  when  using  dyed 
yarn,  two  shuttles  are  sometimes  used 
weaving  "pick  and  pick." 

FINISH. 

Brilliantines  made  with  undyed  weft, 
after  they  come  from  the  loom,  are  first 
scoured,  then  dj'ed;  after  which  they 
are  run  thi-ough  a  rotary  press,of  which 
the  cylinder  has  from  50  to  60  pounds 
of  steam  heat.  Brilliantines  shrink  a 
little  after  they  come  from  the  loom. 
The  pressure  to  which  they  are  sub- 
jected during  the  finishing  process 
stretches  them  out  to  their  original 
length.  Those  made  with  dyed  yarns 
are  given  usually  a  dry  finish,  that  is, 
they  are  simply  run  through  the  press, 
cylinder  heated,  after  which  they  are 
rolled,  then  packed. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

In  a  previous  article,  under  the  head- 
ing "Carding  and  Spinning  Par- 
ticulars," the  mills  were  sub- 
divided into  three  divisions.  For 
the  benefit  of  readers,  we  will 
repeat  how  they  were  divided  for  use 
in  these  articles.  Mills  making  low 
count  yarns,  say  from  Is  to  30s,  were 
included  in  the  first  division,  those 
making  medium  count  yarns,  or  from 
30  to  70s,  were  included  in  the  second, 
and  the  third  division  comprised  mills 
making  yarns  from  70s  up.  This  does 
not  mean  that  only  the  yarns  between 
the  counts  given  are  made  in  one  di- 
vision, but  that  the  greater  portion  of 
the  counts  of  yarn  made  in  the  divi- 
sions referred  to  are  between  the 
counts  given.     Ine 

COUNT  OF  COTTON  YARN 

used  for  brilliantine  for  this  article  is 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


143 


2-40s.  The  filling  yarn  is  lustre 
worsted  yarn  and  therefore  we  will 
only  deal  with  the  cotton  warp  yarn. 
This  class  of  yarns  is  made  in  the 
second  division  of  mills,  the  cotton 
used  being  of  a  medium  grade  and  hav- 
ing a  staple  of  about  1  3-16  inches. 
The  equipment  for  the  second  divi- 
sion of  mills  may  call  for  a  bale  break- 
er or  not.  We  will  consider  that  one  is 
included.  The  bales  of  cotton  are 
stapled  and  several  placed  around  and 
fed  to  the  bale  breaker  alternately 
from  each  bale  until  all  are  gone.  The 
bale  breaker  has  a  capacity  of  about 
80,000  pounds  per  week  of  60  hours. 
The  cotton  is  carried  by  endless  mov- 
ing aprons  so  arranged  that  they  may 
be  moved  so  as  to  allow  the  cotton  to 
be  dropped  into  its  proper  bin.  The 
bins  should  be  as  large  as  possible  so 
as  to  allow 

A  LARGE  MIXING. 
At  this  point  the  sliver  waste  from  the 
machines  up  to  the  slubber  is  mixed 
with  the  raw  stock.  The  cut  roving 
waste  of  the  same  length  and  grade  of 
staple  is  not  mixed  at  this  place,  but 
has  to  go  through  a  special  picking 
machine,  which  takes  out  the  twist, 
then  it  is  put  through  a  picker  and 
made  into  a  lap,  after  which  it  is 
mixed  with  the  raw  stock,  as  will  be 
shown  later.  The  equipment  for  this 
division  may  include  two  or  three 
processes  of  pickers.  We  will  consid- 
er that  it  contains  an  opener  and  three 
processes  of  picking. 

THE  BEATER 
used  is  generally  of  the  porcupine  pat- 
tern and  the  speed  should  be  about 
1,000  revolutions  per  minute  for  this 
class  of  work.  The  opener  is  gener- 
ally attached  to  the  breaker  picker  and 
after  passing  the  beater  of  the  opener 
the  cotton  is  passed  to  the  feed  rolls 
by  a  moving  endless  apron.  At  this 
point  the  cotton  is  in  an  open,  fluffy 
state.  The  feed  rolls  condense  the  cot- 
ton, as  it  passes  between  the  rolls. 
Into  a  sheet,  and  in  this  state  it  is  pre- 
sented to  the  beater  of  the  breaker 
picker.  This  beater  is  generally  of  a 
rigid,  two-bladed  type  and  for  the  cot- 
ton in  question  has  a  speed  of  1,500 
revolutions  per  minute.  The  cotton  is 
then  blown  on  to  a  set  of  cages  and 
compressed  into  a  sheet,  after  which  it 
passes  through  several  sets  of  calen- 
der rolls  between  which  it  is  further 
pressed.  The  total  weight  of  the  lap 
at  the  front  is  40  pounds  or  about  16 
ounces  to  the  yard.  These  laps  are 
put  up  at  the  back  of  the  intermediate 
picker  and 


DOUBLED  FOUR  INTO  ONE. 

The  speed  of  this  beater  is  about  1,- 
450  revolutions  per  minute.  The  total 
weight  of  the  lap  at  the  front  is  37 
pounds  or  a  10-ounce  lap.  These  laps 
are  put  up  at  the  finisher  picker  and 
doubled  four  into  one.  It  is  at  this 
point  that  the  cut  roving  waste  before 
spoken  of  is  mixed  in  the  proportion 
of  three  laps  of  raw  stock  to  one  lap  of 
roving  or  bobbin  waste.  The  speed  of 
this  beater  is  about  1,450  revolutions 
per  minute,  which  gives  the  cotton 
passing  it  about  42  beats  or  blows  per 
minute.  The  total  weight  of  the  lap 
at  the  front  of  this  picker  is  39  pounds 
or  about  a  14-ounce  lap.  These  laps 
are  then  taken  to  the  card,  the  draft  of 
which  for  this  class  of  work  should  not 
exceed  110.  The  fillet  on  the  cylinder 
should  be  of  No.  34  American  wire  or 
110s  English  count  and  on  the  doffer 
and  top  flats  should  be  No.  35  wire  or 
120s  English  count.  The  top  flats 
should  make  one  complete  revolution 
every  45  minutes. 

THE  CARDS 

should  be  stripped  (both  cylinder  and 
doffer)  three  times  a  day  and  ground 
at  least  once  a  month.  The  cards 
should  be  reset  after  every  grinding  in 
all  parts,  except  the  top  flats  to  the 
cylinder,  which  'should  be  reset  at 
least  four  times  a  year.  The  weight 
of  sliver  at  the  delivery  end  of  the 
card  should  be  about  65  grains  per 
yard.  The  cotton  is  next  put  through 
three  processes  of  drawing  frames. 
Metallic  rolls  may  be  used  to  good  ad- 
vantage on  work  of  this  description, 
the  speed  of  the  front  roll  at  each  proc- 
ess being  400  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  weight  of  the  sliver  at  the  finish- 
er drawing  frame  should  be  about  70 
grains.  The  cotton  is  next  put  through 
the  slubber  and  made  into  .55  hank 
roving. 

The  roving  is  then  put  through 

THREE  PROCESSES 

of  fly  frames.  At  the  first  in- 
termediate it  is  made  into  1.50 
hank  roving,  at  the  second  in- 
termediate into  3  hank  and  at 
the  jack  frame  into  9.  This  roving 
is  then  taken  to  the  ring  spinning 
room  and  spun  into  40s  yarn  on  a 
frame  with  the  following  particulars: 
Gauge  of  frame.  2%  inches;  diameter 
of  ring.  1%  inches:  length  of  traverse, 
GVo  inches:  twist  per  inch,  28.46;  rev- 
olutions per  minute  of  spindles,  10.000. 
Prom  here  it  is  passed  to  the  spooler 
and  then  to  the  twister,  where  it  is 
twisted   into   2-40s,  and   then  back  to 


341 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


the  spooler.  From  here  it  goes  to  the 
warper  and  from  the  warper  the 
beams  are  put  up  at  the  slasher,  where 
it  is  sized,  and  then  it  is  ready  for  the 
weave  room. 


Dyeing   Particulars. 

These  goods  are  dyed  in  the  piece 
if  solid  shades  are  wanted,  but  if  two- 
colored  fancies  are  made,  the  warp 
and  the  worsted  j^arn  are  dyed  in  the 
yarn,  woven  and  finished.  For  piece 
dyes  union  colors  are  used,  or  the 
wool  is  dyed  in  an  acid  bath,  rinsed 
and  the  pieces  are  cotton  dyed  cold. 

For  union  black,  5  per  cent  union 
black  A,  30  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 
Boil  till  wool  is  dyed,  and  run  without 
steam  till  cotton  is  dyed  up  to  shade; 
if  cotton  is  not'  dark  enough  add  some 
cotton  black. 

The  union  fancy  colors  are  dyed  in 
the  same  way. 

Wool  yarn  dyeing.  For  100  pounds 
yarn,  10  pounds  Glauber's  salt,  3 
pounds  sulphuric  acid.  Enter  pieces 
at  150  degrees,  bring  to  boil  and  boil 
40  minutes. 

LIGHT   SAGE  GREEN. 
1%  ounces  orange  1 1;  1^  ounces  cy- 
anole  B  B;   %  ounce  fast  yellow  S. 

MEDIUM  SAGE  GREEN. 
6  ounces  orange  II;   2  ounces  fast 
yellow  S;  1  pound  cyanole  B  B. 
DARK  SAGE  GREEN. 
10  ounces  orange  I  I;  3  ounces  fast 
yellow  S;  li^  pounds  cyanole  B  B. 
MEDIUM   OLIVE  GREEN. 
1%  pounds  fast  yellow  S;   6  ounces 
orange  II;    1  pound  cyanole  B  B. 
OLIVE   GREEN. 
21/^  pounds  fast  yellow  S;   %  pound 
orange  II;  li/^  pounds  cyanole  B  B. 
BOTTLE   GREEN. 

3  pounds  fast  green  bluish;  i/^ 
pound  fast  vellow  S;  i^  pound  formyl 
violet  S  4B. 

NAVY  BLUE. 
2    pounds  indigo    blue    S    G    N;     2 
ounces  formyl  violet  S  4B. 

DARK  NAVY  BLUE. 

4  pounds  indigo  blue  S  G  N;  i^ 
pound  orange  I  I;  y^  pound  formyl  vio- 
let S  4B. 

SLATE. 
6  ounces    alizarine  blue    SAP;   Vz 
ounce  orange  \1;  y^  ounce  fast  yellow 
G. 

RED. 
4     pounds  fast     red  N  S;  6     ounces 
orange  I  I. 


ROSE. 
3   pounds     rhodamine  B;    1     pound 
rhodamine  5G. 

SCARLET. 
3  pounds  brilliant  scarlet  IR. 

BROWN. 
214  pounds  orange  I  I;  ^^  pound  fast 
green  bluish;    3   ounces  fast  acid  vio- 
let lOB;   lA  pound  fast  yellow  G. 

The  warps  are  dyed  in  the  chain 
dyeing  machine  with  rasi  sulphur  col- 
ors if  possible.  For  100  pounds 
warp: 

BLUE. 
8    pounds   immedial   indone   3B;    16 
pounds     sodium    sulphide;     8    pounds 
glucose;  3  pounds  soda  ash;  15  pounds 
Glauber's. 

SLATE. 

3  pounds  thion  black  G;  3  pounds 
sodium  sulphide;  2  pounds  soda  ash; 
20  pounds  Glauber's. 

FAWN   DRAB. 

6  pounds  immedial  cutch  O;  6 
pounds  sodium  sulphide;  2  pounds 
soda  ash;  20  pounds  Glauber's. 

GREEN. 

4  pounds  immedial  yellow  D;  4 
pounds  immedial  indone  3B;  8  pounds 
sodium  sulphide;  2  pounds  soda  ash; 
30  pounds  Glauber's  salt. 

OLIVE. 

7  pounds  immedial  olive  3G;  2 
pounds  immedial  dark  green  B;  10 
pounds  sodium  sulphide;  30  pounds 
Glauber's  salt;   3  pounds  soda  ash. 

NAVY  BLUE.    . 

10  pounds  immedial  dark  blue  B; 
10  pounds  sodium  sulphide;  30  pounds 
Glauber's  salt;    3  pounds   soda   ash. 

The  fancy  shades  can  also  be  dyed 
with  one  dip  salt  solors  and  tannine 
basic  colors. 


CALICO. 


A  calico  may  be  defined  as  a  cotton 
cloth  with  a  figured  design  printed  on 
one  side;  generally  speaking,  any 
printed  cloth  coarser  than  muslin, 
used  principally  for  inexpensive 
dresses,  such  as  shirtwaists,  wrappers, 
and  so  on.  ^ 

The  majority  of  inexpensive  cotton 
fabrics  are  constructed  on  the  one-up, 
one-down  system,  or  plain  weave.  Cal- 
ico is  no  exception  to  the  rule.  Its 
ornamentation,  however,  is  given  it 
after  the  cloth  comes  from  the  loom. 


A  COTTON   FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


145 


As  mentioned  above,  calico  is  a  print- 
ed cloth, 

THE  PRINTING 
being  effected  by  means  of  a  printing 
machine,  which  may  be  described  as 
an  elaborate  machine  with  a  rotating 
impression  cylinder,  on  which  the  de- 
sign has  been  stamped,  or  cut.  The 
cloth,  in  passing  through  the  machine, 
comes  in  contact  with  the  impression 
cylinder.  The  cylinder,  revolving  in  a 
color  trough,  takes  up  the  color  and 
leaves  the  impression  of  the  design  on 
the  cloth.  Calicoes  may  be  seen  in  al- 
most any  color.  The  printing  machine 
is  capable  of  printing  several 

COLORS 
in  one  design.     Calicoes,  however,  are 
usually  in  but  two  colors,  that  is,  one 
color  for  ground    and  one  for  the  fig- 
ure. 

The  ground   color  in  most  cases   is 
effected   by  dyeing  the  cloth  in   some 


Fig.  1. 

solid  color.  After  the  cloth  is  dyed, 
the  design  is  printed  on  to  the  cloth. 

The  printed  designs  on  calicoes  may 
be  somewhat  elaborate  or  they  may 
be  some  simple  geometrical  figures.  In 
order,  however,  to  comply  with  the 
true  principles  of  art,  such  fabrics  as 
calicoes  should  have  but  simple  geo- 
metrical figures  for  their  ornamental 
features. 

Fig.  1  shows  a  sample  of  calico, 
with  a  printed  geometrical  figure,  the 
simplicity  of  which  is  in  harmony 
with  the  structure  of  the  fabric. 

We  may  here  mention  that  with  all 
machine  repeating  designs  the  fig- 
ures must  be  laid  out  in  confornnrv 
with  the  dimensions  of  the  priiting 
roll.  For  instance,  say,  the  printing 
roll  measures  six  inches  in  circumfer- 
ence, and  the  design  which  we  wish 
to  print  is  but  two  inches  in  its  verti- 
cal  repeat,    in    order    to    have    perfect 


repetition  we  must  have  three  repeats 
of  the  design  stamppd  o'.  the  impres- 
sion roll. 

The  circumfci  eiijt  of  the  printing 
roll  will,  therefcre,  control  the  size 
and  proporti'^;.  of  the  design.  The  de- 
sign mus^  ue  so  adjusted  that  the  re- 
peat wiW  occur  with  the  utmost  ac- 
curacy. 

Calicoes  are  made  in  comparatively 
narrow  widths.  The  one  under  dis- 
cussion is  but  231/4  inches,  finished. 

ANALYSIS   OF   FABRIC. 

Width  of  warp  in  reed,  25y2  inches; 
width  of  fabric  finished,  24  inches; 
ends  in  finished  cloth  per  inch,  72; 
ends  in  warp,  1,700;  ends  per  inch  in 
reed  66  2-3;  1,200x2  reed. 

Take-up  of  warp  during  weaving,  7 
per  cent;  weight  of  fabric,  per  yard, 
from  loom,  2  ounces;  weight  of  fabric 
nnished.  2  ounces;  warp  all  l-30s  card- 
ed peeler. 

Filling:  52  picks  per  inch  in  loom; 
■"<!'  picks  per  inch  finished. 

Design. 

■^TiBOHaaG 
I  ■Giaaaa 
■nvaarjBD 
nananaaa 
aaanaDaD 
na^anar-a 


Drawing-in-draft. 

aauaaama 
Daaaaao i 
OTODanca 
onaaoDDD 
artmanana 
oajn  'DD  1 
aancDDna 

Fiji.  3. 

Counts   l-30s   carded   peeler. 
LOOM   REQUIRED. 

The  Northrop  loom  would  be  the 
most  economical  loom  to  use  for  cali- 
coes and  similar  fabrics.  The  warp  is 
usually  sized,  in  order  to  strengthen 
the  yarn.  In  the  sizing  process  about 
10  or  15  per  cent  of  weight  of  sizing 
material  is  added  to  the  yarn,  which 
consists  chiefly  of  wheat  flour  or  po- 
tato starch. 

FINISHING. 

The  cloth,  after  it  comes  from  the 
loom,  is  sent  to  the  dyehouse.  The  first 
process  is  to  boil  it  off,  after  which  it 
is  immersed  in  the  dye  tub.  Calicoes 
are  given  what  may  be  termed  a 
"cheap  cotton  dye."  By  "cheap  cotton 
dye"  is  meant  that  the  colors  are  not 
fast,  but  will  run  or  fade  when  sub- 
jected to  water. 

After  the  fabric  is  dyed,  it  is  then 
given  to  the  printer,  who  ornaments 
the  face  of  the  cloth  with  some  geo- 


146 


A    COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY. 


metrical  design;  after  which  it  is  prac- 
tically  ready  for   the   merchant. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  yarns  that  malve  up  calico  may 
be  made  in  either  the  first  or  second 
division  of  mills,  as  givei  in  a  pre- 
vious lesson.  The  counts  of  the  yarns 
used  for  the  particular  fabric  for  this 
article  are  l-30s,  both  warp  and  fill- 
ing, and  these  are  made  out  of  1% 
inches  staple  peeler  cotton.  After  be- 
ing sampled,  several  bales  are  placed 
around  the  bale  breaker,  and  fed  to 
this  machine,  a  little  from  each  bale. 
By  doing  this  a 

MORE  EVEN  YARN 
is  apt  to  be  obtained.  After  passing 
through  the  bale  breaker  the  cotton  is 
conveyed  either  by  endless  lattices  or 
blower  and  trunking  to  the  cotton 
bins.  As  large  a  mixing  as  possible 
should  be  made  at  one  time.  The  raw 
stock  for  this  fabric  is  put  through  an 
opener  and  three  processes  of  pick- 
ing. The  opener  is  never  allowed  to 
becoine  less  than  half  full  when  ma- 
chine is  running,  for  reasons  given  in 
previous  articles.  The  beater  of  this 
machine  runs  at  a  speed  of  about  900 
revolutions  per  minute.  After  pass- 
ing through  this  machine,  which  is 
generally  connected  directly  with  the 
breaker  picker,  either  by  trunkins:  or 
by  an  endless  lattice,  the  cotton  comes 
under  the  action  of  the  feed  roUs  of 
the  breaker  picker,  which  compress 
it  into  a  sheet,  and  it  is  in  this  form 
that  it  is  presented  to  the  beater.  For 
this  class  of  work  a 

TWO-BLADED  BEATER 
is  used  and  the  speed  of  the  beater  at 
this  machine  is  1,400  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  total  weight  of  a  lap  at 
the  front  end  is  40  pounds,  or  about  a 
16-ounce  lap.  These  laps  are  put  up 
at  the  intermediate  picker  and  doubled 
four  into  one.  The  speed  of  the  beat- 
er for  this  machine  is  about  1,350  revo- 
olutions  per  minute.  The  total  weight 
of  lap  at  the  fro  it  is  37  pounds  or  12 
ounces  to  the  yard.  These  laps  are  put 
up  at  the  finisher  picker,  and  doubled 
four  into  one.  It  is  at  this  point  that 
the  cut-rovi^ig  waste  is  mixed  in  with 
the  raw  stock  in  the  proportion  of 
three  laps  of  raw  stock  to  one  lap  of 
roviig  waste.  It  is  understood  that 
the  bobbin  waste  has  to  go  through  a 
special  process  before  being  mixed 
with  the  raw  stock.  The  speed  of  the 
beater  for   this  machine   is  about   the 


same  as  that  of  the  intermediate  pick- 
er, 1,350  revolutions  per  minute.  This 
gives  the  cotton  passing  under  its  ac- 
tion about  42  beats  per  inch.  The  to- 
tal weight  of  a  lap  at  the  front  is  S3 
pounds  or  a  13-ounce  lap.  These 
laps  are  then  taken  to  the  card  room^. 
as  needed,  and  put  up  at 

THE  CARD. 
This  card  should  have  a  draft  not  ex- 
ceeding 100.  The  cylinder  fillet  for 
this  class  of  work  should  be  composed 
of  No.  33  or  100s  English  count  wire, 
and  the  doffer  fillet  and  that  of  the 
top  combs  of  No.  34  wire  or  110s  Eng- 
lish count.  The  speed  of  the  licker- 
in  is  300  revolutions  per  minute,  and 
the  top  flats  make  one  complete  rev- 
olution every  50  minutes.  The  cards 
should  be  stripped  three  times  a  day, 
and  ground  at  least  once  every  month, 
and  set  at  the  time  of  grinding.  Keep 
parts  at  the  front  of  card  cleaned  of 
all  fly  and  collect  the  fly  from  the  flats 
before  it  accumulates  and  falls  over 
the  doffer  or  goes  up  under  the  fiat 
comb  and  gets  onto  the  flats.  The 
weight  of  the  sliver  at  the  front 
should  be  65  grains  per  yard,  the 
production  about  750  pounds  per  week 
of  60  hours.  From  the  card  the  sliver 
is  put  through 

THREE  PROCESSES  OF  DRAWING. 
At  these  machines  the  doubling  is 
six  into  one.  The  draft  at  the  different 
processes  is  as  follows:  Breaker,  4.50; 
intermediate,  7;  finisher,  7.20.  The 
setting  of  the  rolls  is  as  follows:  Dis- 
tance between  front  and  second,  1%; 
between  second  and  third,l%, third  and 
back,  1%  inches.  The  front  roll  makes 
400  revolutions  per  minute.  The 
weight  of  sliver  at  the  finisher  draw- 
ing is  72  grains  per  yard.  The  drawing 
sliver  is  put  through  the  slubber 
where  it  is  drawn  into  .60  hank  roving. 
Set  rolls  as  follows:  front  to  second, 
11/^  inches;  second  to  back,  1%  inches. 
The  slubber  roving  is  put  through 
two  processes  of  fiy  frames  at  the  first 
intermediate.  The  hank  roving  is 
2.25  hank  and  at  the  next  process  it  is 
drawn  into  6.  hank.  The  lays  per 
inch  of  the  roving  on  the  bobbin  at  this 
machine  are  33.  Lools:  out  for  the 
top  rolls  to  see  that  they  are  always 
in  the  best  of  condition.  From  the 
jack  frame  the  roving  is  taken  to 

THE    SPINNING   ROOM 
where  it  is  spun  into  30s    yarn.     The 
particulars   for   a   warp   frame   are   as 
follows:    Gaug?  of  frame,   2%    inches; 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


147 


diameter  of  ring,  1%  inches;  length  of 
traverse,  6i/^;  speed  of  spindle,  9,800 
revolutions  per  minute;  twist  per  inch 
26.02.  The  yarn  is  then  taken  to  the 
siKJOler  and  then  to  the  warper.  From 
the  warper  the  beams  are  put  through 
the  slasher.  A  good  sizing  to  be  used 
for  this  fabric  is  as  follows:  Water,  100 
gallons;  cornstarch,  50  pounds;  tal- 
low, three  pounds;  turpentine,  one 
gill.  Boil  30  minutes  if  the  cloth  is 
woven  on  a  common  loom.  If  woven 
on  a  Draper  loom  use  of  water,  100 
gallons;  potato  starch,  50  pounds;  tal- 
low, three  pounds;  turpentine,  one 
gill.    Boil  30  minutes. 

The  filling  yarn  (30s)  is  made  on  a 
frame  fitted  as  follows:  Gauge  of 
frame,  2%  inches;  diameter  of  ring, 
1%  inches;  length  of  traverse,  6  in- 
ches; speed  of  spindles,  8,300  revolu- 
tions per  minute;  twist  per  inch,  19.16. 


Printing    Particulars. 

Most  of  the  designs  for  calicoes  and 
cotton  cloth  printing  are  made  in  Pa- 
ris, which  has  been  the  headquarters 
for  many  years  of  new  styles  and 
fashions. 

The  design  is  taken  by  the  sketch 
maker,and  drawn  to  scale,  so  that  the 
engraver  can  apply  it  to  the  copper 
roller.  Formerly  all  the  printing  was 
by  hand  (block)  printing.  Now  ma- 
chines are  made  to  print  from  one  to 
24  colors. 

A  12-color  machine  is  the  largest 
generally  used,  but  there  are  a  few 
24-color  printing  machines  in  Europe. 
Each  color  has  a  separate  roller  and 
the  engraver  has  to  make  the  pattern 
fit  on  every  roller,  so  that  when  the 
piece  is  printed  the  design  is  not  spoilt 
and  the  colors  mixed  up. 

ENGRAVING  THE  ROLLERS 
is  done  by  hand    or  machine,  by     the 
pentograph  or  the  die  machine. 

The  printing  machine  turns  out 
ahout  400  to  800  50-yard  pieces  a  day. 
There  have  been  times  where  1,000  50- 
yard  pieces  have  been  run  in  12  hours, 
a  one-color  pattern,  but  for  some  de- 
signs and  cloths  only  250  pieces  are 
run  ia  a  day. 

The  pieces  are  singed  and  bleached, 
then  sheared  and  brushed  to  take 
away  all  lint  from  the  face  of  the 
piece. 

The  pieces  arc  printed,  dried,  and 
steamed  to  fix  the  color,  afterwards 
soaped  and  washed,  then  finished  and 
folded,  and  made  up,  ready  for  the 
market,  being  generally  packed  in  20- 


piece  lots,  to  be  shipped  to  any  point 
of  the  compass.      There  are 

MANY  STYLES 
of  calico  printing.  At  present  the 
steam  styles  are  most  prominent.  The 
colors  are  the  fastest  and  brightest  to 
be  obtained.  The  most  important 
styles  will  now  be  considered.  First  in 
the  list  are  alizarine  colors,  of  almost 
every  hue  and  shade,  reds,  pinks,  pur- 
ples, browns,  blues,  yellows,  oranges, 
etc.  Alizarines  are  fixed  on  the  fibre 
by  chrome  mordants. 
BLUE. 
Three  pounds  alizarine  blue  S  paste. 
20  per  cent;  one  gallon  starch  thicken- 
ing; three  i)ounds  acetate  chrome.  20 
degrees  Tw.  After  printing,the  pieces 
are  steamed  for  one  hour,  four  pounds 
steam  pressure,  then  soaped  and 
washed. 

BASIC  COLORS 
are  good  bright,  fast  colors  fixed  with 
tannine:  10  ounces  auramine,  IVz  pints 
of  water,  1%  pints  of  acetic  acid,  10 
degrees  Tw.;  6  pints  gum  water,  1x1; 
2^,4  pints  acetic  acid  tannic  acid  solu- 
tion, 1x1.  Steam  and  run  through  a 
bath  of  tartar  emetic;  wash  and  dry. 
The  basis  colors  are  very  bright,  and 
consist  of  every  shade  m  the  rainbow. 
Extracts  of  various  dyewoods  are 
still  used  for  some  styles,  fixed  with 
chrome  or  alumina. 

PIGMENT  STYLES 
are  fixed  with  albumen  as  vermilion 
red,  chrome  green,  ultramarine  blue, 
etc.  Indigo  blue  is  dyed,  then  dis- 
charged white,  yellow,  orange  and 
other  colors  are  printed  on  the  dyed 
pieces.  Aniline  black  is  an  imiwrtant 
style  with  many  resist  colors  printed 
first,  the  black  padded  afterwards  and 
oxidized.     This   is   extensively  used. 

Patterns  are  printed  on  the  cloth 
with  mordants  of  iron  and  alum.  The 
cloth  is  then  aged  and  dunged,  dyed 
with  alizarine,  and  the  old  madder 
styles  produced,  which  were  in  such 
demand  50  years  ago.  Then  there 
are  turkey-red  styles,  with  discharge 
white,  yellow,  blue,  green,  black  on 
red  ground;  discharge  white  and  col- 
ors on  blues,  browns,  wines,  etc.  In- 
digo blues  are  dyed  in  the  vat  with  a 
large  proportion  of  synthetic  indigo 
and  discharges  printed  on.  There  is 
also  direct  indigo  printing  with  the 
glucose  process. 

New  styles  and  combination  of  col- 
ors are  produced  every  month  and  fast- 
er and  brighter  colors  printed  each 
season. 


148 


A   COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY. 


PERCALE, 


Percale  may  be  defined  as  a  closely 
woven  fabric,  made  with  a  good  qual- 
ity O'f  cotton  yarn.  Per-oale  is  of 
French  origin  and  was  originally 
made  with  linen  yarn, hence  the  name, 
as  it  is  sometimes  called  French  cam- 
bric. 

The  finer  qualities  of  percale  are 
used  Cor  handkerchiefs,  aprons,  etc. 
When  used  for  these  purposes  they  are 
not  printed,  but  bleached,  after  the 
fajbric  comes  from  the  loom. 


i  Vi   V 

— w — 

V 

*(     ! 

!0i' 

0 

• 

s  s 

lojo 

• 

0 

v\ ' 

0 

• 

ioj^ 

• 

0 

jol- 

^ 

• 

■  A  i  A 

A 

Fig.    1. 

Percale,  however,  is  chiefly  used  for 
dres's  fabrics,  such  as  shirt-waist  suits 
for  spring  and  summer  wear,  and  as 
such,  is  quite  common. 

Percale,  when  intended  for  dress 
fabrics,  is  usually  printed  on  one  side 
with  some  neat  geometrical  figure.  The 
printed  figure  is  usually  in  black,  al- 
though some  may  be  seen  in  red  or 
blue.  The  fabric  is  bleached  before 
it  is  subjected  to  the  printing  opera- 
tion. 

A  CHARACTERISTIC    FEATURE 

ot  percale  is  the  lack  of  gloss,  or  its 
dull  finish,  due  to  the  fact  that  it  is 
not  subjected  to  any  pressure  during 


the  finishing  process.  Percales  may 
also  be  described  as  plain  woven  fab- 
rics with  a  printed  design  on  one  side. 

The  color  used  for  the  printed  fig- 
ures is  quite  durable,  in  so  far  that  it 
will  not  readily  fade  and  will  wear 
almost  as  long  and  well  as  the  fabric. 

The  printed  designs  on  percales  are 
usually  plain  but  neat  geometrical  fig- 
ures. The  polka  dot  pattern  is  quite 
common.  It  produces  a  very  neat  ef- 
fect, especially  when  dots  are  in  black. 
Striped  designs  are  also  very  common. 
Some  very  neat  effects  may  be  ob- 
tained when  using  a  stripe  in  connec- 
tion with  some  simple  geometrical 
figure. 

Fig.  1  shows  on  an  enlarged  scale  a 
design  for  a  stripe  percale.  The  stripes 
as  a  rule  run  in  the  direction  of 
the  warp.  Stripes  running  vertically 
tend  to  increase  the  appearance  of 
height,  while  stripes  running  horizon- 
tally tend  to  decrease  the  impression 
of  height;   for  this  reason  short  per- 


n^nini"'-!    m   b  ^erfi 

BH   l^^lB'    B^^B"  B     B  1 

rT«inan"i  'B.:BC"rjB 
■TUB  nnar  a^f:^»  i 
rjnn^  ^m^ a  b  "^b 

mii  i^mTPT  pnmrnz] 

BTl  1^^-<!"''"^»'OBCBG 

'  ' jUT^'iar^.-B^BnmnB 

BIIITT*  "'■"■"O'^'B^B"! 

nsn^iiT^nB^BDwciB 
BUS  -laarDBPBnBGBa 


Fig.  2.  Weave. 


DDDBCD^BnaDBDODB 
DDBDCDBaaDBCDGBa 
DBDDDBOaaBDGDBQn 
BDDDBDDCBDDOBCQD 
No.  3 — 1  repeats. 


sons  are  advised  to  select  dress  goods 
with  the  stripe  running  vertically. 

Percale,  like  most  cotton  fabrics,  is 
made  in  several  qualities,  as  regards 
counts  of  yarn  used,  and  the  number 
of  ends  and  picks  per  inch.  We  will 
here  give  an  analysis  of  a  good  gra.de: 

ANALYSIS. 

Width  of  warp  in  reed,  SSVz  inches; 
width  of  fabric  finished, 36  inches;  eads 
per  inch,  finished,  85;  ends  in  body  of 
warp,  3,080;  20  ends  for  selvedge;  to- 
tal ends,  3,100. 

Take-up  of  warp  during  weavirg,  6 
per  cent;  weight  of  rabric  per  yard 
from  loom,  3%  ounces. 

Finished  weight,  i^V^  ounces  per 
yard;  warp,  all  l-30s  carded  peeler; 
reed,  1,400x2. 

Filling,  all  l-36s  combed  peeler,  74 
picks  per  inch  in  loom;  74  picks  per 
inch,  finished.  — 

LOOM  REQUIRED. 
Percale,  like  most  cotton  fab;1cs,  is 


J^J^-^^^f^^V^^v 


OTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


149 


T\X)ven  on  looms  with  high  running 
speed.  Percales  are  plain  woven  fab- 
rics, consequently  no  dobby  is  re- 
quired. The  Northrop  loom  would  De 
the  most  economical  loom  to  use  in  the 
manufacture  of  percale,  or  if  a  North- 
rop loom  is  not  available  use  any  plain 
weaving  loom  and  draw  warp  straight 
on  8  harness.  Considerable  care 
should  be  exercised  in  the  weav- 
ing. No  broken  picks  should  be  al- 
lowed to  pass,  as  they  will  show  quite 
distinctly  in  the  finished  fabric. 
FINISHING. 

After  the  fabric  comes  from  the  loom 
it.  is  sent  to  the  bleach  house,  where 
it  is  first  hoiled  off.  Then  it  is  bleached. 
After  the  bleaching  process  the  fabric 
is  ready  lor  the  printer.  After  the 
printing  operation  the  falbric  is  slight- 
ly stiffened,  by  being  passed  through 
a  size  trough.  The  size  used  for  stif- 
fening is  usually  corn,  wheat,  rice, 
barley,  potato  or  farina.  Any  ot 
these  will  give  the  desired  effect. 

The  fabric  passes  from  the  sizing 
trough  on  to  the  drying  cylinders, after 
which  it  is  folded;  then  it  is  ready  for 
shipment. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  counts  of  yarn  of  which  percale 
is  composed  are  made  in  mills  of  the 
second  division.  The  counts  of  yarn 
vary  according  to  the  quality  of  the 
cloth.  In  this  lesson  we  will  consider 
the  count  of  the  filling  yarn  to  be  36s 
and  the  warp  yarn  t&  be  30s.  The  fill- 
ing yam  is  combed  and  the  warp  yarn 
is  carded  peeler  of  1  5-16ths  inches 
staple.  The  cotton  is  brought  from  the 
storehouse  and  sampled,  and  all  bales 
of  the  same  length  and  grade  of  staple 
are  placed  around  the  bale  breaker. 
The  cotton  is  fed  from  each  bale  alter- 
nately to  the  breaker.  From  the 
breaker  it  is  conveyed  automatically  to 
the  so-called  mixing  bins,  either  by 
endless  lattices  or  a  blower  and  trunk- 
ing,  or  a  combination  of  both.  The  lat- 
ter method  is  the  better  one  because 
it 

HELPS  TO  DRY  OUT 
the  cotton  better.  At  the  mixing  bins 
the  sliver  waste  from  all  the  machines 
up  to  the  slubber  is  mixed  in.  The 
sliver  waste  should  not  be  thrown  in 
in  long  lengths,  but  should  be  broken 
into  short  lengths,  so  that  it  will  not 
become  wound  around  the  pin  roller 
of  the  hopper.  The  raw  stock  is  next 
put  througn  a  hopper  and  either  two 
or  three  processes  of  pickers.  The  hop- 
per should  be  kept  well  filled  so  as  to 
insure  a  uniform  amount  of  cotton  al- 
ways being  delivered  to  the  pin  roller. 
This  machine    is    generally    provided 


with  a  porcupine  beater.  The  cotton  is 
delivered  on  to  an  endless  lattice, 
which  carries  it  to  the  feed  rolls  of 
the  picker.  These  feed  rolls  compress 
it  and  present  it  to  the  beater.  This 
beater  is  generally  of  the  rigid  type, 
having  two  or  three  arms,  generaay 
two. 

SPEED  OF  BEATER 
This  beater  has  a  speed  of  1,500  revo- 
lutions per  minute,  if  of  a  2-blade<3 
type,  or  1,000  revolutions  per  minute 
if  it  has  three  arms.  The  total  weignt 
of  the  lap  at  the  front  of  the  breaker 
picker  is  40  pounds  or  a  16-ounce  lap. 
These  laps  are  put  up  at  the  intermedi- 
ate picker  and  doubled  4  into  1.  The 
speed  of  this  beater  is  about  1,450  revo- 
utions  per  minute  for  a  2-'bladed,  or 
975  revolutions  per  minute  for  a  '6- 
bladed  beater.  The  total  weight  of  a 
lap  at  the  front  is  37  pounds  or  a  12- 
ounce  (per  yard)  lap.  These  laps  are 
put  up  at  the  finisher  picker  and 
doubled  4  into  1.  At  this  picker  the 
cut  roving  waste  of  the  same  length  of 
staple  and  cotton  is  mixed  in  in  the 
proportion  of  3  laps  of  raw  stock  to 
1  lap  of  cut  waste.  The  speed  of  the 
beater  for  the  machine  is  1,200  revo- 
lutions per  minute  for  a  2-ibladed,  or 
800  revolutions  per  minute  for  a  3- 
bladed  beater  of  a  rigid  type.  The  to- 
tal weight  of  a  lap  at  the  front  is  35 
pounds  or  a  12i'^-ounce  lap.  A  varia- 
tion of  one-half  pound  from  standard  to- 
tal weight  of  lap  is  allowed  at  this 
picker.  All  laps  weigning  over  35% 
pounds  or  under  34V2  pounds  should  be 
run  over  again.     The  laps  are  taken  to 

THE  CARDS, 
where  the  draft  should  not  exceed  100 
for  this  class  of  goods.  The  speed  of 
the  various  pares  is  as  follows:  Licker- 
in,  300  revolutions  per  minute;  cylin- 
der, 160  revolutions  per  minute;  doffer 
i24  inch),  9^/4  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  top  flats  have  one  revolution  ev- 
ery 45  minutes.  The  weight  of  the 
sliver  at  the  front  should  be  about 
65  grains,  and  the  production  about 
600  pounds  per  week  of  60  hours.  At 
this  point  the  sliver  for  the  filling  yarn 
and  that  for  the  warp  yarn  separate, 
that  for  filling  yarn  being  taken  to 
the  foniber.  Before  beins  I'ut  through 
the  combers  the  sliver  has  to  go  through 
one  or  more  processes.  These  vary 
according  to  the  different  ideas  of  the 
ones  in  charge;  sometimes  the  sliver  is 
put  through  a  drawing  frame  and 
sliver  lap,  and  sometimes  through 
a  sliver  lap  alone.     The 

GENERAL  METHOD  USED 
is  _t3  put  it  through  a  sliver  lap  ma- 
chine ana  then  a  ribbon  lap  machine. 
It   is  the  general   custom  of   late   day 


150 


A   COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY. 


to  use  8  head  combers  running  a  10%- 
inch  lap.  The  following  calculations  are 
made  on  this  ba?is.  At  the  sliver  lap 
machine  the  carded  sliver  Is  doubled 
20  into  1.  The  draft  of  this  machine 
is  about  2.  The  laps  are  put  up  at  the 
ribbon  lap  machine  and  doubled  6  into 
1.  These  laps  are  put  up  at  the  comber 
and  doubled  8  into  1.  The  production 
of  this  machine  is  about  600  lbs.  per 
week  of  60  hours.  The  sliver  is  then  put 
up  and  run  through  two  processes  of 
drawing  frame  and  doubled  6  into  1. 
The  weight  of  the  sliver  at  the  front  of 
the  finisher  drawing  frame  is  65  grains 
per  yard.  The  speed  Oi.  the  front  roll  is 
350  revolutions  per  minute.  This  sliver 
is  next  put  through  the  slubiber  and 
made  into  .50  hank  roving.  This  is 
next  put  through  thro  processes  of 

FLY  FRAMES, 

the  hanks  at  the  different  processes  be- 
ing as  follows:  1st,  1.40;  2d,3,  and  jack, 
9  hank.  From  here  the  roving  is  taken 
to  either  the  mule  room  or  the  ring 
sipinning  room.  We  will  consider  that 
it  is  taken  to  the  ring  spinning  room, 
where  the  frame  for  spinning  36s  would 
he  as  follows:  Gauge  of  frame,  2%  in.; 
diameter  of  ring,  1%;  length  of  trav- 
erse, 5;  twist  per  inca,  27.96;  revolu- 
tions per  minute  of  spindl ©8,7,400.  After 
the  spinning  frame  the  yarn  is  carried 
to  the  weave  room. 

The  sliver  for  warp  yarn  after  leav- 
ing the  card  is  put  tlirough 

THREE    PROCESSES   OP   DRAWING 

the  weight  of  the  sliver  at  the  finisher 
drawing  being  70  grains  per  yard,  the 
revolutions  per  minu+c  of  the  front 
roll  being  350.  This  is  put  up  at  the 
slubber  and  made  into  .50  hank  roving, 
after  which  the  roving  is  put  through 
two  processes  of  fly  frames,  the  hank 
roving  at  each  being  as  follows:  1st,  2, 
and  jack,7  hank.  The  roving  is  taken  to 
the  spinning  room  and  spun  into  30s 
yarn  on  a  frame  having  the  following 
particulars:  Gauge  of  frame,  2%  in.; 
diameter  of  ring,  1%  in.;  length  of 
traverse,  QV2  in.;  twist  per  inch,  26.02; 
revolutions  per  minute  of  spindles,  9,- 
800.  The  yarn  is  next  taken  to  tne 
spooler,  then  to  the  warper,  and  from 
here  to  the  slasher. 


Bleaching  and   Finishing   Particulars. 

Percales  are  very  carefully  handled 
in  the  finishing  process. 

The  goods  are  fbleached  in  a  kier 
with  4  degrees  caustic  soda,  washed 
and  boiled  with  another  process  of 
4  degrees  caustic  soda,  washed  and 
chemicked  at  %  degree  Tw.  for  six  to 
eight  hours,  being  laid  in  bins.    Then 


they  are  soured  with  %  degree  sul- 
phuric acid,  and  well  washed  and 
dried.  Some  finisihers  place  each  piece 
in  the  kiers  separately,  and  also  in 
chemic  tJbs  and  souring  bins,  as, 
if  sewed  in  long  lengths,  and  run 
through  the  machinery  in  the  rope 
form,  the  pieces  are  dragged  and  the 
threads  are  not  straight  across  the 
piece.  Spots  and  small  figures  are 
printed  on  the  goods  in  navy  blue, 
brown,  black,  green  and  other  colors. 
DARK  NAVY. 

Eight  ounces  new  fast  blue  F;  2 
ounces  methyl  violet  3  R;  1^4  pints 
water;  IVz  pints  acetic  acid  10  degrees 
Tw.;  7  pints  thickening;  8  noggins  ace- 
tic acid  and  tannic  acid  (1-1). 
DARK  ROSE. 

Four  and  one-half  c mces  rhodamine 
5  G;  3  pints  acetic  acid  10  degrees  Tw.; 
5  pints  water;  3^/^  pints  mucilage  tra- 
gacanth  (70-1,000);  4  noggins  acetic 
tannic  solution  (1-1). 

IMPERIAL  PURPLE. 

Four  ounces  methyl  violet  4  R;  3 
pints  acetic  acid  10  degrees  Tw.;  3 
pints  mucilage  of  tragacanth  (70-1,000) ; 
5  pints  water;  2  noggins  acetic  tannic 
soluticn  (1-1). 

GREEN. 

Four  ounces  malachite     green;     l-i4 
pinits  acetic  acid  10     degrees    Tw.;     b 
pints  gum  water  (1-1);  4  noggins  ace- 
tic tannic  acid  (1-1) ;   2  pints  water. 
GRAY. 

Two  ounces  new  fast  gray;  5  pints 
mucilage  of  tragacanth  (70-1,000) ;  3 
pints  albumen  water  (1-1);  3  pints 
water. 

The  above  colors  are  steamed  for  one 
hour  with  five  pounds  steam.  They 
are  run  through  a  solution  of  tartar 
emetic,  2  ounces  to  gallon,  soaped 
and  rinsed,  then  dried. 

STARCHING. 

Six  to  eight  ounces  white  German 
dextrine,  1  gallon  water.  Mix  cold  and 
boil  for  20  minutes.  After  starch- 
ing, dry  on  a  tenter  frame. 


PERCALINE. 


Percaline,  like  percale,  is  a  plain 
woven  fabric  made  with  a  good  quality 
of  single  cotton  yarn  tor  both  warp 
and  filling.  The  similarity  extends 
no  further;  the  difference  between  the 
two  fabrics  lies  chiefly  in  the  weight 
and   finish. 

Percaline    is    a    lighter    fabric    and 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


]51 


has  a  very  glossy  liuisb,  or,  more 
properly  speaking,  a  muory  finish  per- 
caline  is  usually  dyed  in  solid  col- 
ors. Percale,  on  the  other  hand,  is  a 
bleached  cloth  with  a  dull  finish  and 
usually  with  a  printed  design  on  one 
side. 

Fercaline  is  uspd  chiefly  for  feminine 
wearing  apparel,  principally  for  lin- 
ings, petticoats,  etc.  Tbese  purposes 
require  th|at  the  cloth  shall  be  of 
solid  color,  the  darker  colors  being 
preferred,  such  as  daric  blues,  dark 
green  and  black,which  have  the  great- 
est sale.  It  may,  however,  also  be 
seen  in  lighter  shades,  such  as  a  me- 
dium blue,  a  light  shade  of  bro-mi  and 
various  shades  of  tan. 

Percaline,  as  mentioned  above,  is  a 
plain  woven,   single-yarn  fabric.     The 

WARP  YARN  IS  SIZED 
in  order  to  facilitate  tlie  weaviag.  A 
fabric  like  percaline  requires  very  lit- 
tle detail  work,  as  far  as  the  design- 
ing is  concerned.  The  most  attention 
is  given  to  the  finishing  process.  Ii 
order  to  get  a  good  glossy  finish  a 
certain  number  of  ends  and  picks  per 
inch  are  required. 

It  is  important,  in  laying  out  the 
ends  and  picks  per  inch,  that  the    de- 


r. 


!□» 


n 


■::a=:B=:BG 


Pig.  1. 


mm    1 

n  MB 
BBDT 
nnwB 

OC«B 

BB^:; 

Fig.    1. 


Chain   Drafts. 


n-i-ir:^3::B 
nnarDBDn  nnoBnooB 

m~inBnnn    DBODDBaa 

□nninacD  cinBODBn 

n^B-lDCDT  BDDDBDna 

Bonaanna 

Fig.   2.  Pig.   2. 

Drawing-in  Drafts. 


signer  bear  in  mind  that  unless  suf- 
ficient yarn  is  iised,  the  fabric  will 
not  acquire  the  desired  effect  in  the 
finishing. 

This  glossy  or  moory  finish  is  quite 
a  characteristic  feature  in  a  perca- 
line. The  more  ends  and  picks  per 
inch  used,  the  more  gloss  the  fabric 
will  possess  when  finished. 
ANALYSIS. 

Width  of  warp  in  reed,  37.5;  width 
of  fabric  finished,  36;  ends  per  inch, 
84;   ends  in  warp,  3,050;   1,400x2.  reed. 

Take-up  of  warp  during  weaving, 
7  per  cent;  weight  of  cloth  per  yard 
from  loom,  2.5  ounces;  weight  of  cloth 
per  yard  finished,  3  ounces;  warp 
yarn.    l-30s   combed    peeler. 

Filling,l-40s,  84  picks  per  incli  from 
loom. 

Picks  per  inch  finished,  84. 
LOOM    REQUIRED. 

Percaline  is  woven  in  the  gray  on 
high  running  speed  looms,  with  four 
or  eight  harnesses.    When  four    har- 


nesses are  used,  the  warp  is  generally 
drawn  in  the  following  order:  1,  3,  2, 
1.  (See  PMg.  2A.)  When  eight  har- 
nesses are  used,  it  is  drawn  straight. 
(See  Fig.  2  B.)  Fig.  1  A:  de3i.?ii 
for  skip  draw  four  harnesses.  Fig. 
IB:  design  for  eight  harnesses  straig  ic 
draw. 

The  Northrop  loom  would  be  about 
the  best  loom  to  use,  principally  on 
account  of  production  obtained 
with  these  looms. 

FINISHING. 

The  finishing  ]/rocess  will  Include 
fi'om  the  time  the  clotn  comes 
from  the  loom  until  the  cloth  is  ready 
for  use. 

The  first  process  to  which  the  cloth 
is  subjected  is  to  boil  it  off,  that  is, 
by  soaking  it  in  boiling  water;  this 
process  partially  relieves  it  from  any 
foreign  matter  that  it  may  have  gath- 
ered during  the  weaving  and  at  th^ 
same  time  prepares  it  for  the  dye 
tub. 

After  the  fabric  is  dyed,  it  is  sized 
in  order  to  stiffen  it  and  also  height- 
en the  gloss  on  the  cloth. 

After  the  sizing,  it  is  ready  for  the 
calender.  In  order  to  still  more  add 
to  the  gloss  on  the  face  of  the  fabric, 
the  cloth  is  usually  doubled  length- 
wise, or  sometimes  two  pieces  are 
placed  together,  back  to  back,  and 
run  through  the  calender  at  the  same 
time.  Before  the  cloth  reaches  the  cal- 
ender rolls  it  passes  between  two 
perforated  steam  pipes,  which  wet  the 
cloth  considerably,  then  between  the 
rolls  of  the  calender,  which  are  well 
heated  and  tightly  set  together.  The 
above-mentioned  processes  produce 
what  is  termed  a  moory  finish. 

The  cloth  after  it  comes  from  the 
calender  is  lapped  on  small  boards, 
after  which  it  is  ready  for  the  market. 


Carding  and  Spinning   Particulars. 

The  carding  and  spiniing  particu- 
lars applicable  to  the  manufacture  of 
Dercale,  given  in  the  last  ai-ticle  may 
be  followed  also  with  reference  to  per- 
caline, with  a  few  minor  cha\£"es: 
Thus  the  count  of  the  filling  yarn  is 
to  be  40s,  instead  of  'ZQs.  The  filling 
and  warp  yarns  are  both  carded  peel- 
er, and  the  cut  roving  is  put  through 
a  special  process  that  takes  out  the 
twist  and  delivers  it  in  a  fluffy  state. 
This  is  then  put  through  a  picker, 
which  forms  it  into  a  lap,  and  these 
laps  are  dealt  with  as  before  de- 
scribed. All  laps  weighing  over  35V^ 
pounds  or  under  34^^  pounds  should 
be   run   through  the     finisher     picker 


15: 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


again,  being  mixed  in  witti  the  otlier 
laps  in  tlie  proportion  of  one  re-run 
lap  to  three  regulai-  laps.  This  is 
done  so  that  the  weight  will  not  vary 
from  the  standard.  At  the  cards  a 
26  or  27  inch  doffer  should  be  used  it 
possible,  the  larger  the  better,  and  the 
production  should  be  650  pounds  per 
week  of  60  hours.  The  sliver  for  both 
the  warp  and  filling  yarn  is  put 
through  three  processes  of  drawing, 
and  the  roving  to  make  the  warp  yaa-n 
through  two  processes  of  fly  frames. 
The  following  size  mixing  may  be  used 
at  the  slasher:  Water,  100  gallons; 
cornstarch,  50  pounds;  tallow,  three 
pounds;  turpentine,  one  gill;  boil 
three  minutes.  The  slubber  roving 
for  filling  yarn  is  put  through  three 
processes  of  fiy  frames.  We  will  con- 
sider that  it  is  taken  to  the  ring 
spinning  worm,  where  the  frame  for 
spinning  40s  would  be  as  follows: 

Gauge  of  frame,2%  inches;  diameter 
of  ring,  1%  inches;  length  of  traverse, 
5%  inches;  speed  of  spindles,  8,800: 
twist  per  inch,  23.72. 

After  being  spun,  the  filling  yarn 
is  treated  so  that  it  is  delivered  to 
the  weave  room  in  a  moist  state.  This 
is  accomplished  by  different  methods 
in  different  mills,  some  using  a  steam 
chest,  while  others  simply  immerse 
the  filling  in  water  just  before  it  is 
carried  to  the  weave  room. 


Dyeing   Particulars. 
PEARL. 

One-quarter  per  cent  diamine  dark 
blue  B;  10  per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per 
cent  sal  soda. 

LIGHT  TAN. 

One-quarter  per  cent  diamine  fast 
yellow  B;  Va  per  cent  diamine  brown 
G;  1-16  per  cent  diamine  black  B  H; 
10  per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

LIGHT  BROWN. 

One-quarter  per  cent  tetrazo  brown 
R;  %  per  cent  tetrazo  yellow  M;  % 
per  cent  tetrazo  black  N;  10  per  ceat 
Glauber's;   2  per  cent  sal  soda. 

LIGHT  BLUE. 

One-eighth  per  cent  diamine  sky 
blue  F  F;  20  per  cent  Clauber's:  1  per 
cent  sal  soda. 

LILAC. 

Onie-quarter  percent  tetrazo  chlorine 
lilac  B;  10  per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per 
cent  sal  soda. 

ROSE. 

One-quarter   per    cent   tetrazo    chlo- 


rine rose;    10  per  cent     Glauber's;     1 
per  cent  sal  soda. 

MEDIUM  BROWN. 
One  per  cent  diamine     fast     yellow 
B;  1  per  cent  diamine  brown      B;     % 
per  cent  diamine  black    B  H;   20  per 
cent  Glauber's;   2  per  cent  sal  soda. 

ROYAL    BLUE. 
Three  per  cent  tetrazo  brilliant  blue 
B  B;  30  per  cent  GlaulDer's;  2  per  cent 
sal  soda. 

PINK. 
One-quarter  per  cent     tetrazo     pink 
G  G  N;  20  per  cent  Glauber's;       1  per 
cent  sal  soda. 

NAVY  BLUE. 
Two  per  cent  diamine  blue   B;  3  per 
cent  diamine  black    B  H;   30  per  cent 
Glauber's;    2  per  cent  sal   soda. 

DARK  GREEN. 
Five   per   cent  diamine   green   B;    1 
per  cent  diamine  black  H  W;     30  per 
cent  Glauber's;   2  per  cent  sal  soda. 

DARK  BROWN. 
Two  per  cent  diamine    fast    yellow 
B;  3  per  cent  diamine  brown  B;  i/^  per 
cent  diamine  black  B  H;   30  per  cent 
Glauber's;  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 

WINE. 
Three  per  cent     diamine     Bordeaux 
B;   30  per  cent  Glauber's;    3  per  cent 
sal  soda. 

SCARLET. 
Three  per  cent  diamine     scarlet    B; 
30  per  cent  Glauber's;   3  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

BLACK. 

Fifteen  per  cent  immedial  brilliant 
black;  15  per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  3 
per  cent  soda  ash;  30  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's. 


BEDFORD  CORD. 


Bedford  cord  is  a  name  given  to  one 
of  the  most  popular  types  of  fabrics, 
the  distinguishing  effect  of  which  is  a 
line  stripe  and  raised  cord  effect  run- 
ning lengthwise  of  the  cloth,  the  cords 
being  of  more  or  less  prominence. 

Figs.  1,  3  and  6  show  examples. 

They  are  a  standard  type  and  are 
made  in  a  large  variety  of  weights. 
The  cords  vary  in  width  from  about 
l-20th  to  1/4  inch.  Although  usually 
made  with  cotton,  the  name  refers  to 
the  weave  rather  than  to  a  combinEt- 
tion  of  weave  and  material.       Sample 


A  COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY. 


15o 


for  Fig.  3  is  a  worsted   bedford  cord. 

The  face  effect  of  bedford  cords  is 
generally  plain,  although  twill  face 
cords  are  occasionallj'  made. 

Fig.  1  illustrates  a  plain  faced  bed- 


These  ends  weave  plain  throughout 
and  have  twice  as  many  interlacings 
as  the  other  ends  in  each  repeat. 


llaiat'^^^y;?l;^^t^jg^^M:*i!?**1ff^^ 


ford  cord,  made  with  weave  Fig.  2. 
This  is  the  simplest  type  of  bedford 
cord  weave,  but  is  not  used  to  any 
extent  on  account  of  some  of  the  picks, 
A  and  B,  bringing  widely  differing 
proportions  of  warp  and  filling  on 
the  face  from  picks  C  and  D,  making 
it  hard  on  a  loom. 


Fig.    6. 


The  remainder  of  the  ends  weave 
plain  on  one-half  of  the  picks  only, 
and  are  then  raised  out  of  the  way 
and  the  filling  allowed  to  float  under 
them    for    the    other    two    picks,    the 


OffiDBDI 

OffiBBBI 
BDBBBI 


Fig. 


aS^GBGBGBaBOBDBBBBBBBBBBB 
^CBGBDBnBaBDffiDBBBBBBBBBB 
aiSBaBBBBBBBaaSaBDBDBDBDB 
SJBBBBBBBBBBSGBDBDBDBDBD 

Fig.   4. 


DffiB:^aB:^BBQBBmGSGGBaGBGGBaOB 
aOBaBBI^BBQaBSB^GBOGBGOBOGBOG 
G«GGBGGaGGBaGBGffiB:::BBnBBaBBC» 
SDBGGBGaBDaBGDajGBaBBQBBEJBBBB 


Fig. 


Fig.  3  illustrates  a  sample  made 
with  Fig.  4.  This  shows  practically 
the  same  effect  as  Fig.  1,  but  has  be^n 
made   with   an    easier  weave. 

Figs.  4  and  5  will  serve  to  show  the 
two  principal  forms  of  construction 
of  bedford  cords. 

Fig.  4  is  complete  on  24  ends  and  4 


Fig.    3. 

picks.  One  repeat  of  this  weave 
makes  two  ribs  or  cords  in  Fig.  3.  The 
line  or  cut  effect  is  formed  by  ends  1 
and  2.  and  13  and  14,  shown  in  type    s 


cords  alternating  so  that  when  one  rib 
is  weaving  plain, the  same  pick  of  fill- 
ing is  floating  under  the  next  ohe.  The 
plain  picks  of  the  succeeding  repeat 
slide  over  and  cover  these  long  floats 
of  filling,  making  the  face  effect  plain 
and   yet   striped. 

The  advisability  of  using  this  tyM 
of  weave  in  preference  to  that  shown 
in  Fig.  2  is  in  the  fact  that  it  allows 
the  ends  of  one  cord  to  be  raised  o«ft 


OSIDBDBBBGBaBBBDBGBG^DBBBDBGrranHnaaa 

fflnaaaBanB'^BBBr"GBB'?iaaaBBarw^»-»'nB'-BB 
asaBaBaBnBB*rBaBBBGffirBaBva^v''BBCanB 
BaBa~aBGBaaGB^Baa^='"-B'^B"^Baa    •     "^tbc 

DB)BBDBGBBaGBnBBaQBn'?aBG«'~-a-'R"n'^BaBOB 
SaBDBaBBBGaDBBBDBaSGBBaGBCaaaGBaiBBn 

Fig.   7. 


of  the  way,  while  the  other  is  weav- 
ing plain,  and  the  loom  is  allowed  to 
raise  the  same  number  of  ends  On  each 
pick. 

As  every  two  picks  of  filling  infei*- 
lace  only  with  the  ends  of  every  alter- 
nate rib,  and  float  at  the  back  of  the 
next  one.  solid  lines  of  color  Ipn^h- 
wise  of  the  piece  may  be  made  by  ar- 
ranging the  waiii  yams  of  one  rib  of 
one  color  and  those  of  the  other  rib  of 


154 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


a  different  color,  and  picking  the  fill- 
ing 2  and  2  so  that  each  color  inter- 
laces only  with  the  same  color  of 
warp.  A  variety  of  colored  stripes 
may  be  made  by  combining  the  types 
Figs.  2  and  4,  varying  the  number  and 
sizes  of  sections  as  desired. 

To  get  extra  weight  without  altering 
the  appearance  of  the  face,  extra  warp 
yariia,  termed  wadding  ends,  are  in- 
serted between  the  face  weave  and  the 
filling  floating  at  the  back  of  the  rib. 
When  these  wadding  ends  are  •coarse, 
they  give  a  pronounced    rounded    ap- 


coarse  reed  in  a  fairly  heavy  singl?? 
box  loom.  One  warp  only  is  re- 
quired unless  the  counts  of  the  wad- 
ding and  face  yarns  differ. 

The  question  of  dividing  the  two 
cutting  ends  with  the  reed  or  of  put- 
ting them  in  the  same  dent  depends 
upon  the  effect  desired  and  the  qual- 
ity of  the  fabric.  The  stripes  may  be 
varied  in  width  as  desired,  or  the  sizes 
of  the  different  ribs  in  one  pattern  may 
vary   within  certain   limits. 

The  construction  of  samples  for  Figs. 
1,  3  and  6  are  as  follows: 


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am  A  ■-  -s:: «   33 


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Pig-.   8. 


pearance  to  the  cord,  more  so  than  if 
several  ends  of  finer  yarns  are  used. 
Wa^idjiing  ends  are  generally  coarser 
than  tjie  face  ends. 

Fig.  5  illustrates  the  type  of  weave 
used  when  a  bedford  cord  is  re- 
quired with  a  fine  face  and  a  heavy 
weight,  or  where  a  well-rounded  cord 
is  desired.  Ends  shown  with  type  a 
are  wadding  ends.  These  are  al- 
ways raised  when  the  filling  is  float- 
in'g  at  the  back  of  the  cord  and  de- 
pressed ■when  the  filling  is  interweav- 
ing'with  the  face  ends. 

Fig;.  G  illustrates  a  bedford  cord  with 
a  twill  weave  On  the 'face.  The  twill 
runs -to  the  right  in  one  rib  and  to  the 
left  in  the  next  one,  making  a  herring- 
bone, effect.  Fig.  7  shows  the  face 
weate  for  Fig.  6,  ends  1  and  2  and  19 
and' 20    being  the  cutting  ends. 

Thfe  weave  for  this  particular  sam- 
ple lias  been  made  on  the  principle 
shown  in  Fig.  2,  but  weave  Fig.  8 
would  be  nreferahle.  In  this  figure 
type  m  indicate  cutting  ends;  n  wad- 
ding ends;  is  and  solid  hlack  type  face 
cord  ends;  solid  type  and  s  show  the 
face  weave.  The  wadding  ends  would 
be  drawn  2  in  each  heddle.  There  are 
12  o^  these  in  each  rib. 

The  cutting  ends  in  Fig.  6  might 
have  been  arranged  to  work  2  and  2, 
Instead  of  plain,  because  of  the  large 
number  of  picks  per  inch  and  the  rel- 
ative amount  of  interlacing  of  the 
other  ends.  When  the  face  weave  is 
plain,  two  plain  ends  should  separate 
the  ribs. 

Bedford  cords  are  firm  fabrics,some- 
what  heavy  on  account  of  the  large 
number  of  ends  and  picks  required  per 
inch.  They  are  usually  woven  with  a 


For  Fig.  1,  96  sley,  88  pick;  for 
Fig.  3.  116  sley,  108  pick:  for  Fig.  e. 
220  sley,  156  pick. 

No.  6  contains  132  face  ends  and  88 
wadding  ends  per  inch,  making  a  to- 
tal of  220. 


Carding  and  Spinning   Particulars. 

The  machinery  for  the  manufacture 
of  bedford  cord  will  be  found  in  the 
second  and  third  division  of  mills,  as 
given  in  a  previous  lesson.  There  are 
generally  three  counts  of  yarn  used 
for  each  piece  of  cloth,  one  for  filling, 
one  for  the  warp,  and  one  for  the 
cords.  These  counts  vary  according 
to  the  quality  of  the  fabric  being  made, 
generally  several  different  qualities 
being  made  uijider  one  management. 
The  counts  of  yarn  which  will  be 
considered  iji  Uli-S  article  as  composing 
the  cloth  will  be  number  40s  foi-  warp, 
number  6O0  for  filling  and  number  20s 
for  the  cord  or  wadding  ends.  These 
counts  are  made  up  of  a  good  quality 
of  cotton  of  about  1%  to  1%  inch 
staple.  At  the  mixing  bins  the  waste 
sliver  up  to  the  slubber  is  mixed  in  as 
collected,  which  should  be  done  at  reg- 
ular intervals  during  the  day.  The  one 
in  charge  of  the  picker  room  should  see 
that  too  much  waste  is  not  being  made 
and  also  that  the  sliver  is  well  torn  to 
pieces  before  being  put  into  the  mix- 
ing. A  good  way  to  check  how  much 
waste  is  being  made  is  to  have  the 
picker  man  weigh  it  as  it  comes  in  and 
at  the  end  of  every  week  give  his  list 
to  the  overseer.  In  this  way  the  over- 
seer may  be  sure  that  he  is  getting  a 
correct  list  of  the  amount  of  waste  be- 


A   COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY. 


155 


ing  made  and  can  act  accordingly. 
Tlie  raw  stock  is  put  through  either 
two  or  three  processes  of  picking, 

TWO  PROCESSES  OF  PICKING 

being  generally  used,  although  the 
particulars  for  three  processes  will  be 
given  here.  The  raw  stock  is  fed  to 
the  hopper  and  from  here  passes  under 
a  beater,  the  speed  of  which  is  1,050 
revolutions  per  minute.  From  here  it 
is  conveyed  to  the  feed  rolls  of  the 
breaker  picker,  in  a  fluffy  state,  by  an 
endless  lattice.  The  feed  rolls  con- 
dense it  and  present  the  sheet  of  cot- 
ton to  the  action  of  the  beater,  which 
is  generally  of  the  rigid  typ;%  having 
either  two  or  three  arms.  If  a  two- 
armed  beater  is  used,  the  speed  should 
be  about  1,500  revolutions  per  min- 
ute, and  if  a  three-bladed  beater,  the 
speed  should  be  proportionately  less. 
The  total  weight  of  the  lap  at  the 
front  should  be  about  40  pounds  or  a 
IG-ounce  lap.  These  are  put  up  at  the 
intermediate  picker  and  doubled  4  into 
1.  The  speed  of  this  beater  should  be 
about  1,400  revolutions  per  minute, 
the  total  weight  of  the  lap  at  the  front 
being  35  pounds  or  a  14i^-ounce  lap. 
These  laps  are  put  up  at  the  finisher 
picker  and  doubled  4  into  1.  It  is  at 
this  point  that  the 

CUT  ROVING  WASTE 

is  mixed  in,  it  having  first  been  made 
into  a  lap  after  passing  through  a  spe- 
cial process,  in  the  proportion  of  one 
lap  roving  waste  to  three  laps  raw 
stock.  The  speed  of  this  beater,  if  of  a 
two-bladed  rigid  type,  should  be  about 
1.350  revolutions  per  minute,  which 
gives  the  cotton  passing  through  it 
about  40  beats  per  inch.  The  total 
weight  of  the  laps  at  the  front  should 
be  about  35  pounds  or  a  1214-ounce 
lap.  A  variation  of  half  a  pound  either 
side  of  standard  is  allowed.  Laps  with 
a  variation  of  more  than  the  above 
should  be  treated  as  given  in  a  pre- 
vious article.  The  laps  are  put  up  at 
the  card,  the  draft  of  which  should 
not  be  less  than  100.  The  speed  of  the 
top  flats  should  be  one  complete  revolu- 
tion every  45  minutes.  The  wire  fillet 
used  should  be  of  medium  fineness, 
about  number  110  for  cylinder  and 
number  120  for  the  doffer  and  top 
flats. 

THE  WEIGHT  OF  SLIVER 

at  the  front  should  weigh  65  srrains 
per  yard,  the  production  for  the  40s 
and  GOs  yam  being  650  pounds  per 
week  of  60  hours,  and  for  the  20s 
yam  750  pounds  per  week.  This 
sliver        is        put        through        three 


processes  of  drawing,  six  ends 
up,  the  revolutions  per  minute  of  the 
front  roll  being  400  at  the  finisher 
drawing.  The  weight  at  the  finisher 
drawing  should  be  70  grains  per  yard. 
The  drawing  should  be  sized  three 
times  a  day,  and  if  the  variation  is 
more  than  one  grain  per  yard,  the 
draft  gear  should  be  changed  to  keep 
the  drawing  at  standard  weight.  The 
drawing  sliver  is  put  through  the  slub- 
ber and  made  into  .50  hank  roving. 

FLY  FRAMES. 

The  roving  for  40s  and  GOs  yarn  is 
run  through  three  processes  of  fly 
frames  and  for  20s  is  run  through  two 
processes.  For  GOs  yarn  the  different 
hanks  at  each  process  are  as  follows: 
First  intermediate,  1.50;  second,  4; 
jack,  12  hank.  For  40s  yam 
the  details  are  as  follows:  First, 
1.40;  second,  3.40;  jack,  10. 
For  20s  yarn:  First,  1.50;  sec- 
ond, 4.50.  The  warp  yarns  are  frame 
spun  and  for  40s  use  a  frame  the 
same  as  given  in  a  previous  lesson. 
For  20s  use  a  frame  having  a  gauge  of 
2%  inches,  diameter  of  ring  2  inches, 
length  of  traverse    7  inches. 

The  filling  yam  may  be  either  mule 
or  ring  spun;  if  the  latter,  use  a  frame 
having  a  gauge  of  2%  inches;  diam- 
eter of  ring,  1%  inches;  length  of 
traverse,  5^/^  inches;  revolutions  per 
minute  of  spindles,  8,000.  The  warp 
yarn  is  put  through  the  spooler, 
warper  and  slashing  machines  and 
then  is  ready  for  the  loom. 

A  great  many  mills  comb  their  fill- 
ing for  weaving  bedford  cords. 


Dyeing   Particulars. 

SLATE. 


Two  per  cent  immedial  black  N  B; 
2  per  cent  sodiurn  sulphide:  2  pei 
cent  soda  ash;  20  per  cent  Glauber', 
salt. 


per 

's 


PEARL. 


One-half  per  cent  immedial  direct 
blue  B;  ^  per  cent  immedial  black  N 
B;  1  per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  2  per 
cent  soda  ash;  20  per  cent  Glauber's 
salt. 

BROWN. 

Tliree  per  cent  immedial  cutch  O;  5 
per  cent  immedial  brown  R  R;  ^/i  per 
cent  immedial  black  N  B;  9  per  cent 
sodium  sulphide;  3  per  cent  soda  ash; 
30   per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 

BLACK. 

Fifteen   per  cent  immedial   black  N 


15G 


A    COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY. 


N;  15  per  cent  sodium  sulphide:  3  per 
cent  soda  ash;  30  per  cent  Glauber's 
salt. 

BOTTLE   GREEN. 
Eight  per  cent  immedial  dark  green 
B;    1  per  cent  immedial   yellow   D;    9 
per  cent  sodium  sulphide;   30  per  cent 
Glauber's;   3  per  cent  soda  ash. 

NAVY  BLUE. 
Four  per  cent   immedial   indgne   B; 
4  per  cent  immedial    indone  R;     8  per 
cent  sodium  sulphide;  3  per  cent  soda 
ash;  30  per  cent  Glauber's. 

RED. 
Six  per  cent  benzo  fast  red  4  B;   30 
per  cent  Glauber's  salt;  3  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

PINK. 

One  per  cent  erika  pink;  2  per  cent 
sal  soda;  20  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 

SKY  BLUE. 
Four  per  cent  tetrazo  sky  blue  F;   2 
per  cent  sal  soda;    30  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's salt. 

IMPERIAL    PURPLE. 
On  a  tannine  and  tartar  emetic  mor- 
dant. Dye  2  per  cent  methyl  violet  2  R. 


CHINTZ, 


Chintz  is  a  fine,  soft,  cotton  fabric, 
printed  with  elaborate  designs  of  flow- 
ers and  foliage  in  several  colors.  The 
fabric  is  used  principally  for  house- 
hold purposes,  such  as  lambrequins, 
coverings,  etc.  It  is  also  utilized  for 
such  purposes  as  masquerade  dresses 
and  the  like. 

Chintz  is  but  a  plain  woven  fabric, 
elaborately  ornamented  with  designs 
by  means  of  the  printing  machine,  sev- 
eral different  colors  being  employed. 
From  this  point  of  view  we  will  con- 
sider the  fabric. 

COLORINGS   FOR   CHINTZ. 

There  is  practically  no  combination 
of  colors  that  may  not  be  used  for  the 
ornamentation  of  a  fabric  of  this  de- 
scription. However,  the  high -cole  rod 
designs  are  most  popular.  Following 
are 

POINTS  TO  CONSIDER 

In  planning  a  design  for  chintz,  also 
colors  to  use.  In  the  first  place  it  is 
necessary  to  have  a  clear  idea  of  what 
the  main  characteristics  of  the  design 


are  to  be,  before  the  work  of  arrange- 
ment is  begun.  The  character  of  the 
design  should  be  influenced  largely  by 
the  purposes  the  fabric  is  intended  for; 
this  brings  in  the  question  of  fitness, 
which  is  the  application  of  a  certain 
class  of  design  to  certain  materials.  It 
is  evident  that  the  style  of  desigi  that 
would  be  suitable  for  a  floor  covering 
would  be  entirely  unsuitable  for  a 
printed  cotton  fabric.  The  considera- 
tion of  style  is  a  subject  that  the  de- 
signer is  bound  to  be  governed  by, 
simply  because  the  designs  are  for  a 
commercial  purpose;  consequently  in 
planning  a  design,  the  style,  scale  and 
character  of  the  design,  the  material 
it  is  to  be  applied  to,  and  its  purposes 
should  be  understood  by  the  designer. 
Chintz  is 

A  PURELY  ORNAMENTAL  FABRIC. 

The  designs,  therfore,  may  be  rich, 
both  in  colors  and  design.  In  Figure  1 
we  give  an  idea  of  the  character  of 
design  used  for  fabrics  of  this  de- 
scription. The  ground  may  be  a  light 
shade  of  blue,  the  leaves  and  stems 
in  two  shades  of  green,  while  the  flow- 
ers may  have  three  shades  of  red 
graduating  from  pink  to  dark  red;  a 
happy  blending  of  color  is  essential  ro 
the  well-being  of  a  design. 

ANALYSIS. 

Inches. 

Width  of  warp  in  reed : 36% 

Width  of  fabric  finished 35% 

Ends  per  inch  finished 72 

Ends  in  warp 2556 

Selvedge    24 

Total  ends  in  warp  2580 

Reed  1250x2 

Take-up  of  warp  during  wpaving,  •> 
per  cent;  weight  of  fabric  finished, 
1%  ounces  per  yard. 

Warp  yarn  1-44  cotton. 

Filling  56  picks — 1-80  cotton. 

LOOM  REQUIRED. 

Chintz  is  usually  woven  on  high  run- 
ning speed  looms,  such  as  a  Northrop 
loom.  The  warp  is  drawn  in  on  eight 
harnesses,  straight  drafting.  The 
warp  yam  is  well  sized  so  as  to  avoid 
breakages  of  the  warp  in  the  weaving. 

FINISHING. 

The  fabric,  after  it  comes  from 
loom,  is  sent  to  the  printing  house, 
where  it  is  boiled  off,  preparatory  to 
the  printing  operation;  chintz  is  not 
dyed;  all  the  colors  are  applied  by 
means  of  the  color  rolls  in  the  print- 
ing machine.  Several  rolls  are  re- 
quired, each     roll  having     a  separate 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


157 


portion  of  the  design  and  likewise  a  Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars 

separate  color.  The  yarns  of  which  chintz    is    com- 

After   the     printing,    the     fabric   is      posed  are  made  in     mills    having    the 


passed   through  ci    calender  press,   the  second   division  of  equipment  of  nfa- 

rolls  of  which  are  well     heated     and  chinery.     The    yarns   which   make    up 

tightly  set,  which  gives  the  glazed  fin-  the   sample   under   desci'iption   are   as 

ish  which  the  fabric  possesses.  follows:  filling  yam  No.  SOs  and  varp 


158 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


yarn  44s.  The  tilling  j'arn  is  made 
of  good  cotton  of  1^4  inches  staple. 
This  is  put  through  a  bale  breaker,  as 
has  been  previously  described.  Either 
two  or  three  processes  of  picking  rnay 
be  used,  many  overseers  claiming  the 
two-process  method  to  be  the  better. 
The  raw  stock,  after  being  allowed 
to  stand  in  the  mixing  bin  as  long 
as  possible  to  dry  out,  is  put  into  the 
hopper  of  the  opener,  and  after  be- 
ing lifted  up  by  the  spiked  apron 
comes  in  time  under  the  action  of  the 
beater.  This  beater  is  provided  with 
four  arms,  the  blades  of  which  are 
composed  of  leather.  The  speed  of  this 
beater  for  this  kind  of  stock  is  1,000 
revolutions  per  minute. 

THE  RAW  STOCK 

is  then  passed  to  the  breaker  picker 
by  an  endless  lattice.  This  lattice 
should  be  varnished  frequently  so  as 
to  make  it  smooth.  This  not  only  ap- 
plies to  this  lattice,  but  to  all  lattices 
in  the  picker  room.  The  feed  roHs  of 
this  machine  compress  che  cotton  into 
a  condensed  sheet  and  it  is  struck 
from  these  rolls  by  a  beater.  This  is 
generally  of  a  rigid  type,  having 
either  two  or  three  arms:  if  of  two- 
blade  type  it  makes  about  1,500  revo- 
lutions per  minute.  The  laps  at  the 
head  end  weigh  40  pounds  or  a  16- 
ounce  lap.  The^e  laps  are  put  up  at 
the  intermeriiate  and  doubled  4  into  1. 
The  speed  of  this  beater  is  about  1,400 
revolutions  per  minute,  the  total 
weight  of  the  lap  being  37  pounds  or 
a  12-ounce  lap.  These  laps  are  put  up 
at  the  finisher  picker  and  doubled  4 
into  1.  It  is  at  this  point  that  the 
cut  roving  is  mixed  in, as  has  been  de- 
scribed in  a  previous  article.  The 
speed  of  this  beater  is  1,350  revolu- 
tions per  minute  if  of  a  rigid  two- 
bladed  tyije;  if  The  beater  has  three 
blades  it  rotates  proportionately  slow- 
er. The  total  weight  of  a  lap  at  the 
front  is  39  pounds  or  a  12-ounce  lap. 

THE  EVENNESS  OP  WORK. 

Look  out  to  see  that  the  eveners  on 
all  the  pickers  are  in  proper  work- 
ing order,  for  remember  the  greater 
part  of  the  evenness  of  a  lap  depends 
upon  this  part  of  the  picker.  See  that 
the  drafts  are  properly  directed  and 
of  the  right  strength  to  do  the  most 
good.  Keep  the  .^y  well  cleaned  out  from 
under  the  machines  and  don't  be 
afraid  of  oil.  but  get  it  in  the  proper 
place.  Be  sure  and  have  everything 
neat  and  clean.  The  laps  are  put  up 
at  the  card.  It  has  always  been  a  bone 
of  contention  whether  it  is  proper  to 
use  a  heavy  lap  and  slow    speed     or 


light  carding  and  higher  speed.  Heavy 
carding  means  low  drafts,  and  light 
carding,  so  called,  high  drafts.  For  this 
lesson  light-weight  carding  will  be 
used.  The  draft  of  the  card  should 
be  115,  which  gives  a  45-grain 
sliver.  The  speed  of  the  flats  should 
be  one  complete  revolution  every  40 
minutes.  The  speed  of  the  licker  is 
350  revolutions  per^  minute.  Strip 
three  times  daily  an'd  clean  thorough- 
ly twice  a  day.  Keep  front  of  card 
free  from  fly  waste  all  the  time.  The 
production  of  the  card  for  a  week  of 
GO  hours  is  550  pounds.  This  is  put 
through 

THREE  PROCESSES  OF  DRAWING, 

the  weight  of  the  sliver  at  the  finish- 
er being  CO  grains  per  yard.  The 
speed  of  the  front  roll  is  400  revolu- 
tions per  minute.  The  top  rolls  of  a 
drawing  frame  should  always  be  kept 
well  varnished,  the  leather  being  free 
from  flutes,  ridges,  nicks;  in  fact, 
they  should  be  in  perfect  shape.  The 
drawing  sliver  is  next  put  up  at  the 
slubber  and  made  into. 55  hank  rov- 
ing. This  is  put  through  three  proc- 
esses of  fly  frames,  the  hank  roving 
at  each  process  being  asfollows:  First, 
1.50  hank;  second,  4.80  hank;  fine  or 
jack,  IG  hank.  This  roving  may  be 
taken  to  either  the  mule  or  ring  spin- 
ning room.  If  to  the  latter,  use  a 
frame  having  the  following  particu- 
lars for  spinning  80s  yarn:  Gauge  of 
frame,  2%  inches;  diameter  of  ring, 
1%;  length,  of  traverse,  5  inches;  rev- 
olutions per  minute  of  spindles,  7,400; 
twist  per  inch,  29.07.    The 

YARN  AFTER  BEING  TREATED 

in  some  manner  to  make  it  damp, 
is  carried  to  the  weave  room. 
What  has  been  said  of  the  cot- 
ton for  the  filling  yam  may  also  a])- 
ply  to  the  warp  yarn  with  the  follo'A'- 
ing  exceptions:  In  the  picker  room, 
length  of  staple,  1^^  inches;  weight  of 
lap  at  finisher  picker,  40  pounds.  In 
card  room  at  the  (?ards,  draft  not  over 
105;  speed  of  flats,  one  revolution  'n 
50  minutes.  Production  675  to  700 
pounds,  at  drawing  frame,  weight  of 
sliver,  70  grains  per  yard;  at  slubber  a 
.fiO  hank  roving,  which  is  put  through 
three  processes  of  fly  frames,  the 
hank  at  each  being  as  follows:  First. 
1  50  hank:  second,  4  hank:  fine,  10 
hank.  This  is  carried  to  the  ring 
spinning  room  and  made  into  44s  yarn 
on  a  frame  with  the  follow- 
ing particulars:  Gauge  of  frame, 
2^  inches:  diameter  of  rin.g, 
^^;  inches;  length  of  traverse.  6 
inches;     revolutions    per    minute    of 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


159 


spindles,  10,000;  twist  per  inch,  29.65. 
The  yarn  is  then  spooled,  beam 
warped,  and  these  are  run  through  the 
slasher,  where  the  requisite  number  of 
ends  is  run  on  a  warp  beam  at  the 
head  end.  A  good  size  mixing  is  as 
follows:  Water,  :100  gallons;  potato 
starch,  54  pounds;  Yorkshire  gum,  2 
pounds;  soap  (white),  V/^  pounds; 
parafine  wax  about  1  pound. 


Printing    Particulars. 

The  colors  for  this  style  of  goods  are 
mostly  light  bright  shades. 

LIGHT  BLUE. 

Two  ounces  methyl  blue  B;  1  pint 
acetic  acid.  10  des;rees  Tw.;  2  pints 
water;  6  piuts  gum  water,  1:1;  'hi 
pint  acetic  acid  tannic  acid  solution, 
1:1. 

LIGHT   GREEN. 

One  and  one-half  ounces  brilliant 
green  crystals;  1  pint  acetic  acid;  lO 
degrees  Tw.;  2  pints  water;  5  pints 
gum  water.  1  :  1;  ^A  pi^t  acetic  acid 
tannic  acid  solution,  1  :  1. 

LIGHT  PINK. 

One  and  one-half  ounces  rhodamine 
5  G;  3  pints  water;  IV2  pints  acetic 
acid,  6  degrees  Tw. ;  3  pints  tragacanth 
solution,  70 — 1,000;  %  pint  acetic  acid 
tannine  solution,  1  :  1. 

RED. 

Six  ounces  rhoduline  red  B;  2  pints 
water;  I'h^  pints  acetic  acid,  10  degrees 
Tw.;  6  pints  gum  water,  1:1;  1^ 
pints  acetic     acid     tannine     solution, 

1  :  1. 

LIGHT  MAUVE. 

One-half  ounce     methyl  violet    6  B; 

2  pints  water;  ly^;  pints  acetic  acid,  10 
degrees  Tw.;  6  pints  gum  water,  1  :  1; 
%  pint  aceti*  acid  tannine  solution, 
1  :  1. 

ROYAL   BLUE. 

Six  and  one-half  ounces  Victoria 
blue  B;  1^^  pints  acetic  acid, 10  degrees 
Tw.;  21,4  pints  water;  6  pints  gum 
water,  1:1;  1%  pints  acetic  acid  tan- 
nine solution.  1:1. 

LIGHT  YELI-OW. 

Five  ounces  duramine  I  I;  1%  pints 
acetic  acid,  10  degrees  Tw.;  1^  pints 
water;  6  pints  gum  water,  1:  1;  IVi 
pints  acetic  and  tannine  solution, 
1  :  1. 

ROSE. 

Four  ounces  rhodamine  6G;  iV2  pints 
water;    3  pints   acetic  acid,  9   degrees 


Tw.;  314  pints  tragacanth  solution, 
70^1,000;  1  pint  acetic  acid  tannine 
solution,  1  :  1. 

LIGHT  BROWN. 

Six  ounces  Bismarck  brown  G;  2 
pints  acetic  acid,  10  degrees  Tw.;  ^.1 
pint  glycerine,  45  degrees  Tw.;  2V^ 
pints  water;  6  pints  gum  water,  1  :  i; 
1.  pint  acetic  acid  tannine  solutio.i, 
1:1. 

LIGHT  OLIVE. 

One  pint  of  the  light  yellow  color;  1 
pint  of  light  brown  color;  V^  pint  light 
green  color;  well  mixed  and  strained 
through  a  cloth.  With  different  pro- 
portions of  these  colors  any  shade  can 
be  obtained. 

These  colors  are  well  mixed  in  a 
tub  or  copper  pan,  strained  through  a 
cloth,  and  printed  in  a  printing  ma- 
chine. The  pieces  are  dried,  steamed 
one  hour,  without  pressure,  passed 
through  a  bath  of  tartar  emetic,  soap- 
ed at  90  degrees  F. ,  washed  and  dried. 

The  pieces  are  then  run  through  a 
starch  mangle  and  starched,  then  cal- 
endered to  finish  required. 


ORGANDIE  (Plain  and  Figured). 

An  organdie  may  be  defined  as  a 
very  fine  translucent  muslin,  used  ex- 
clusively for   dress  goods. 

The  fabric  is  made  in  a  variety  of 
qualities  as  regards  the  counts  of  yarns 
used.  This  naturally  influences  the 
number  of  ends  and  picks  per  inch  in 
the  fabric.  The  fabric  is  also  made  in 
a  variety  of  widths,  ranging  from  18 
to  60  inches. 

The  fabric,  as  already  mentioned,  is 
used  exclusively  for  dress  goods.  The 
plain  organdie  is  very  popular  in  pure 
white  or  bleached,  although  considera- 
ble quantities  are  dyed  in  solid  colors 
of  light  shades,  such  as  pale  blue  and 
various  pinks,  while  the  figured  organ- 
die is  usually  bleached,  then  printed 
with  small  floral  designs.  The  printed 
design  is  usually  in  from  two  to  four 
colors  and  in  delicate  shades  in  con- 
formity with  the  material. 

The  design  itself  is  also  quite  deli- 
cate. 

In  a  design  for  a  fabric  of  this  char- 
acter, the  scale  of  the  pattern  should 
not  be  too  large.  It  should  not  ex- 
ceed 41^.  inches  in  the  repeating  of  it 
as  the  folds  of  the  dress  and  the  nu- 
merous seams  would  destroy  the  effect 


100 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


of  the  repeat   if  it  were  much,  larger. 

The  accompanying  slvetch  shows  a 
desiga  for  the  fabric  in  question;  the 
design  shows  a  rose  spray  rendered  in 
a  natural  manner.  A  color  scheme  for 
the  same  would  be  to  have  the  flowers 
pink  or  yellow,  while  the  leaves  and 
stems  may  be  in  green;  this  against  a 
white  ground  should  give  a  pleasing 
effect.  A  delicate  design  and  color 
scheme  are  essential  for  this  kind  of 
fabric.  Organdie,  considered  in  rela- 
tion to  cost,  as    a  wearing    material  is 


quite  an  expensive  fabric;  however,  the 
retail  price  apparently  seems  to  dis- 
prove this  fact.  Our  reason  for  the 
statement  that  the  fabric  is  not  an  in- 
expensive material  is  that  it  has  a 
finish  peculiar  to  itself,  so  that  when 
subjected  to  soap  and  water  it 
will  not  have  the  same  appearance  as 
before.  It  loses  its  crisp  feeling  en- 
tirely; consequently  an  organdie  is 
worn  by  many  until  soiled,  then  dis- 
carded. 

ANALYSIS. 

Width  of  warp  in  reed,  32  inches; 
width  of  fabric  finished,  30%  inches; 
ends  per  inch  in  reed,  76;  ends  in  warp, 
2,440;  ends  per  inch  finished,  80. 

Reed,  1,400x2. 

Take-up  of  warp  during  weaving,  7 
per  cent;  weight  of  fabric,  about  IE 
yards  to  one  pound. 

Warp  yarn,  1-80  combed  Sea  Island. 
Filling,  l-20s  combed  Sea  Island;  88 
picks  per  inch. 


LOOM  requirb:d. 

Organdie  is  but  a  plain  woven  fab- 
ric. The  ornamentation  of  the  figured 
fabric  is  effected  by  means  of  the 
printing  press;  consequently  any 
smooth  running  high  speed  loom  may 
be  used  in  the  weaving  of  this  cloth. 
However,  as  the  Northrop  loom  with 
warp  stop  motion  would  answer  best, 
the  warp  may  be  drawn  in  straight  on 
eight  harnesses;  in  using  a  consider- 
able number  of  ends  per  inch,  it  is  safe 
to  use  at  least  eight  harnesses,  so  as  to 
avoid  heddle  chafing:. 

The  warp  preparatory  to  weaving  is 
given  a  fair  sizing  with  white  gum  in 
order  to  give  it  strength. 

FINISHING. 
The  fabric  is  stiffened  by  sizing  it 
with  such  ingredients  as  dextrine,  dul- 
cine,  albumen,  casein,  etc.,  after  which 
it  is  run  through  the  calender,  which 
slightly  glazes  the  surface  of  the  fab- 
ric, thus  completing  the  finishing  proc- 
ess. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  yarns  of  which  organdies  are 
composed  require  the  equipment  of 
machinery  found  in  the  second  or 
third  division  of  mills,  as  given  in  a 
previous  lesson.  This  class  of  goods 
requires  a  very  fine  grade  of  cotton, 
and  generally  both  warp  and  filling 
yarns  are  made  of  combed  stock.  The 
counts  of  yarn  vary,  according  to  the 
grade  of  goods  to  he  made.  In  this 
article  it  will  be  considered  that  the 
make-up  of  the  cloth  is  as  follows:  80s 
warp  and  120s  filling  yarn.  These  are 
made  from  Sea  Island  stock  of  1%  to 
1%  inch  staple.  Sea  Island  cotton  as  a 
whole  requires  just  as  little  picking  as 
possible  and  still  get  the  dirt  out.  Sea 
Island  cotton  is  generally  put  through 
an  opener  and  one  process  of  picking, 
although  some  overseers  use  two 
processes.  This  stock  is  not  put 
through  the  bale  breaker,  but  is 

GENERALLY  MIXED  BY  HAND. 

If  any  bales  are  found  which  are  not 
up  in  grade  and  staple  they  should  be 
placed  one  side  and  not  put  into  the 
mixing.  The  mixing  should  be  made 
from  several  bales  at  once,  so  as  to  get 
the  mixing  as  even  as  possible.  At 
this  point  the  sliver  waste  from  the 
machines  up  to  the  slubber  is  mixed 
ii.  The  sliver  should  be  pulled  into 
short  lengths  so  that  it  will  not  be  so 
apt  to  become  wound  around  the  pin 
beater  of  the  opener.  The  hopper 
should  be  kept  more  than  half  full. 
The  cotton  is  passed  from  this  machine 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


IGl 


directly  to  the  finisher  picker;  the 
apron  of  this  picker  is  divided  up  into 
yard  lengths  and  the  loose  cotton  is 
spread  evenly  over  it.  About  lu 
ounces  to  the  yard  is  the  weight  used. 
The  beater  for  this  class  of  goods  is 
generally  of  a  rigid  two-bladed  type, 
the  speed  of  it  being  less  than  those 
that  have  been  previously  given.  The 
speed  of  the  beater  is  about  1,200  rev- 
olutions per  minute,  wnich  gives  the 
cotton  of  this  length  passing  through 
the  picker  about  29  beats  per  minute. 
The  total  weight  of  the  lap  at  the 
front  of  picker  is  30  pounds,  or  a  10- 
ounce  lap.  The  usual  points  that  have 
been  previously  given  should  be  looked 
out  for  and  in  addition   the 

SPEED  OF  THE  BEATER 

should  be  watched  to  see  that 
it  is  not  putting  neps  into  the 
cotton.  These  laps  are  put  up  at 
the  card,  the  draft  of  which  should  be 
high,  not  less  than  125,  and  on  some 
Sea  Island  stock  the  draft  runs  as 
high  as  ISO.  The  card  wire  fillet  used 
on  the  cylinder  should  be  No.  120s 
(English  count)  and  for  the  doffer  and 
flats  130s.  The  flats  should  be  speeded 
up  to  take  out  more  flat  waste  or,  in 
other  words,  the  card  with  HO  flats 
should  make  one  revolution  every  35 
minutes.  The  flats  are  speeded  up  by 
lagging  the  flat  pulleyon  the  main  cyl- 
inder shaft.  Close  settings  should  be 
used  and  these  should  be  gone  over 
every  time  the  card  is  ground,  which 
should  be  once  every  month.  Grind 
lightly.  Strip  three  times  a  day  and 
keep  the  cards  clean,  especially  the 
fronts.  The  weight  of  the  sliver  at 
the  front  should  be  about  45  grains  per 
yard  and  the  production  about  225  to 
300  pounds  per  week  of  60  hours.  Be 
sure  that  the  feed  plate  is  set  at  the 
proper  distance  from  the  licker-in,  so 
that  the  staple  will  not  be  broken.  On 
most  makes  of  cards  the  licker-in  is 
speeded  too  high  for  this  class  of  cot- 
ton, and  better  results  will  be  obtained 
if  the  speed  is  dropped  to  27-5  and  not 
more  than  300  revolutions  per  minute. 
It  is  claimed  that  a  high  speed  of  the 
licker-in  tends  to  put  neps  into  the 
cotton  of  long  staple. 

THE   LICKER-IN 

should  be  speeded  so  as  to  tear  the 
sheet  or  lap  apart  and  take  out  the 
seed,  etc.,  left  by  the  picker.  The  cot- 
ton is  next  taken  to  the  sliver  lap  m^- 
chines  and  made  into  a  lap.  The 
weight  of  the  lap  should  be  about  300 
grains  per  yard.  The  doublings  at 
the  sliA'er  lap  are  14  into  1  when  6- 
head  9-incli  lap  combers  are  used,  or 


20  into  1  when  8-head  lOi/^-inch  laps 
are  used.  The  laps  from  the  sliver  lap 
machine  are  doubled  6  into  1  at  the 
ribbon  lap  machine,  the  weight  of  laps 
per  yard  being  2S0  grains.  These  laps 
are  put  up  at  the  comber.  The  doub- 
lings at  the  comber  depend  on  how 
many  heads  it  has.  For  the  past  two 
or  three  years  the  comber  builders 
have  sold  practically  nothing  but  8- 
head  combers,  so  we  will  consider  that 
the  mill  is  equipped  in  tliis  manner. 
The  doublings  would  then  be  8  into  1. 
For  this  class  of  goods  from  22  to  25 
per  cent  waste  is  taken  out  and  the 
weight  of  the  sliver  at  the  front  is  48 
grains.     This  is  put  through 

TWO     PROCESSES     OF     DRAWING 

the  weight  at  the  front  of  the  finisher 
drawing  being  about  60  grains  per 
yard. 

Be  sure  to  keen  the  top  leather  rollc 
well  varnished  and  in  good  condition. 
See  that  all  parts  of  the  machine  are 
working  properly. 

The  sliver  is  next  put  up  to  the  slub- 
ber and  made  into  .80  hank  roving.  In 
some  mills  the  top  leathers  are  var- 
nished and  in  addition  to  this, on  long- 
stapled  stock,  larger  top  rolls  are  used 

This  roving  is  put  through  three 
processes  of  fly  frames  for  120s  filling 
yarn,  the  hank  roving  at  each  process 
being  as  follows:  At  the  first  inter- 
mediate 2.25  hank,  at  the  second  inter- 
mediate 6.50  hank  and  at  the  fine 
frame  24  hank.  On  this  hank  roving 
it  is  a  good  plan  to  either  have  self- 
weighted  rolls  on  second  intermediate 
and  fine  frames  or  run  them  without 
weights,  all  the  weight  being  on  the 
back  top  roll.  The  roving  is  then 
spun  on  a  mule  into  120s. 

The  slubber  roving  for  the  warp 
yarn  is  put  through  three  processes  of 
fly  frames,  the  hank  roving  being  as 
follows:  At  the  first, 2. 25;  at  the  second, 
5  hank,  and  at  the  jack,  10  hank.  Keep 
the  top  leather  rolls  in  good  condi- 
tion and  watch  the  traverse  motion. 
Look  out  for  twist  and  don't  get  too 
much  tension,  so  as  to  pull  the  roving 
when  it  is  between  the  boss  of  the  front 
roll  and  the  flyer,  as  this  tends  to  cause 
uneven  roving.  Don't  let  the  hands 
cut  the  roving  from  the  bobbin,  and 
weigh  the  cut  rc;ving.  This  roving 
is  taken  to  the  ring  spinning  room 
and  spun  into  SOs  yam  on  a  frame 
having  the  following  particulars: 
Gau.ge  of  frame,  2%  inches;  diameter 
of  ring.  1%  inches;  length  of  traverse, 
BVi^  inches;  twist  per  inch,  39.08;  speed 
of  spindles,  9.600.  From  here  it  passes 
through  the  spooler  and  warper,  and 
the  beams  for  this  machine  are  put  up 


162 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


at  the  slasher,  and  after  passing 
through  this  machine  the  required 
number  of^  ends  are  mn  on  to  a  warp 
at  the  front  end. 

A  GOOD-SIZED  MIXING 

for  80s  yam,  if  sloy  and  pick  are  high, 
is  as  follows:  Water.lOO  gallons;  pota- 
to starch,  70  to  75  pounds;  tallow,  7 
pounds;  Yorkshire  gum,  3  pounds; 
soap  (white),  2  pounds.  Boil  2  hours 
and  let  stand  10  hours  before  using. 
Keep  agitator  running  and  keep  size- 
mixing  almost  at  boiling  point. 


Dyeing   Particulars. 
Following  are  dyeing  particulars  for 


organdie: 


PINK. 


Two  ounces  rhodamine  pink  6  G;  1 
qt.  water;  l^^  pints  acetic  acid  90  de- 
grees Tw.;  3  pints  tragacanth  solution 
70  :  1.000;  %  pints  acetic  acid  tannine 
solution  .1  :  1. 

LIGHT  YELLOW. 

Four  ounces  thioflavine  T;  2  qt. 
water;  1%  pints  acetic  acid,  6  degrees 
Tw.;  3  pints  tragacanth  solution  .70: 
1,000;  1  pint  acetic  acid  tannine  solu- 
tion 1  :   1. 

PEACOCK  BLUE. 

Four  ounces  turquoise  blue  G;  2  qt. 
water;  2  pints  acetic  acid,  9  degrees 
Tw.;  3  pints  tragacanth  solution  70 
:  1,000;  1%  pints  acetic  acid  tannine 
solution  1   :   1. 

ROSE. 

Four  ounces  brilliant  rhoduline  red 
B;  2  qt.  water;  1^^  pints  acetic  acid, 
6  degrees  Tw.;  3  pints  tragacanth  so- 
lution 70  :  1,000;  1%  pints  acetic  acid 
tannine  solution  1  :   1. 

BLUE. 

Four  ounces  methylene  blue  B  B; 
2  qt  water;  2  pints  acetic  acid,  9  de- 
grees Tw.;  2  pints  tragacanth  solution; 
1%  pints  acetic  acid  tannine  solution 
1  :  1. 

GREEN. 

Four  ounces  emerald  green  crys- 
tals; 2%  pints  water;  2  pints  acetic 
acid,  6  degrees  Tw.;  3  pints  tragacanth 
solution  70  :  1,000;  11/2  pints  acetic 
acid,  tannic  acid  solution  1  :  1. 

LIGHT  BROWN. 

Four  ounces  Bismarck  brown  B;  1 
qt.  water;  2  pints  acetic  acid,  9  degrees 
Tw.;  3  pints  tragacanth  solution  70  : 
1,000;  11/^  pints  acetic  acid  tannic  acid 
solution  1:1. 


SAGE  GREEN. 

Mix  together  one  gallon  green  color; 
1/4  gallon  light  yellow;  i/^  gallon  light 
brown. 

VIOLET. 

One  ounce  methyl  violet  4  B;  1  qt. 
water;  ly^  pints  acetic  acid,  6  degrees 
Tw.;  6  pints  gum  water  i  :  1;  %  pint 
acetic  acid  tannine  solution  1   :   1. 

SLATE. 

One  gallon  blue  color;  1  pint  light. 
yellow;  well  mixed  with  Yz  gallon 
tragacanth  solution  70  :   1,000. 

The  color  is  then  strained  through  a 
cloth,  and  is  ready  to  print.  All  the 
colors  are  well  boiled  in  a  copper  pan. 
and  strained  through  a  cloth.  After 
the  printing  process,  they  are  dried, 
steamed  one  hour  without  pressure, 
passed  through  a  bath  of  tartar  emet- 
ic, and  soaped  at  90  degrees  F.,  rinsed 
and  dried.  The  goods  are  starched  and 
finished  on  a  tenter  frame. 


ALBATROSS  CLOTH. 


Cotton  albatross  cloth  is  a  plain 
fabric  made  in  imitation  of  a  worsted 
fabric  of  the  same  name.  It  is  light 
in  weight,  and  is  used  principally  for 
dress  goods.  It  is  sometimes  used 
instead  of  bunting  for  railroad  flags. 
The  ends  and  picks  per  inch  are  few 
and  the  width  of  the  cloth  is  narrow. 

The  items  of  construction  for  a  cot- 
ton albatross  are  as  follows:  Warp. 
1,024  ends  of  No.  28s  cotton;  16  ends 
have  been  allowed  for  selvedges. 

Filling,  48  picks  per  inch  of  No.  36s 
cotton;  48  sley  reed. 

Width  in  reed.  23  inches. 

Width  finished.  21  inches. 

This  fabric  can  be  made  very  read- 
ily on  an  automatic  loom,  or  on  any 
of  the  light,  fast  running,  single  box 
cotton  looms,  four  wire  heddle  har- 
nesses, or  the  regular  twine  harnesses, 
on  the  plain  cotton  loom  only  being 
required.  If  wire  harnesses  are 
used  on  a  cam  loom,  the  ends  should 
be  drawn  through  the  heddles,  1,  3,  2, 
4. 

Being  considered  a  fair  quality  of 
cloth,  it  is  necessary  to  match  the 
pick  when  weaving  it. 

The  goods  are  finished  by  being 
burled,  sheared,  washed,  singed,  dyed, 
rinsed,  dried  and  pressed;   care    being 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


163 


taken  not  to  press  them  too  hard. 

The  singeing  process  is  sometimes 
omitted. 

Albatross  cloth  is  generally  sold  in 
white,  black,  or  solid  colors,  being 
piece  dyed.  It  is  not  used  to  any  ex- 
tent for  printing  purposes. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  yarns  for  albatross  cloth  are 
made  in  mills  having  the  equipment  of 
machinery  found  in  the  second  divi- 
sion of  mills,  as  given  in  a  previous 
lesson.  For  this  article  we  will  con- 
sider the  filling  yarn  to  be  number  36s. 
This  would  be  made  of  1%-inch  sta- 
ple American  cotton.  The  warp  yarn 
is  2Ss  count  and  may  be  made  from 
the  same  state  and  grade  of  cotton. 
The  mixing  is  done  either  by  hand  or 
by  a  bale  breaker.  The  cotton,  if 
mixed  in  the  former  manner,  should 
be  allowed  to  stand  longer  than  if 
mixed  by  the  latter  method.  This  is 
to   allow   the   cotton 

TO  DRY  OUT. 
At  this  point  the  good  sliver  waste 
from  machines  up  to  the  slubber  is 
mixed  in,  care  being  taken  that  the 
sliver  is  broken  up  into  short  lengths. 
The  cotton  is  next  put  through  an 
opener  and  either  two  or  three  proces- 
ses of  picking  (generally  three).  The 
opener  hopper  should  be  kept  at  least 
half  full  in  order  to  always  have  an 
even  amount  of  cotton  fed  to  the  break- 
er picker.  This  picker  is  generally  pro- 
vided with  a  two-bladed,  rigid  beater, 
which  rotates  at  a  speed  of  1,400  revo- 
lutions per  minute.     The 

TOTAL  WEIGHT  OF  LAP 
at  the  front  end  of  this  picker  is  about 
40  pounds  or  a  16-ounce  lap.  These 
are  put  up  at  the  intermediate  picker 
and  doubled  four  into  one.  This  is  al- 
so provided  with  a  two-bladed,  rigid 
type  of  beater,  the  speed  being  1,500' 
revolutions  per  minute.  This  style  of 
beater  is  not  always  used,  as  will  be 
noted  later.  The  total  weight  of  lap 
at  the  front  is  about  38  i)ounds  or  a 
12-ounce  lap.  These  laps  are  put  up 
at  the  finisher  picker  and  doubled  four 
into  one.  At  this  point  the  laps  of  cut 
roving  waste  are  mixed  in  in  the  pro- 
portion of  one  lap  of  cut  roving  to 
three  laps  of  raw  stock.  The  cut  rov- 
ing is  treated  as  before  stated. 

THE  FINISHER  PICKER 
is  equipped  with  either  a  rigid  or  what 
is  called  a  pin  heater.  A  great  many 
mills  are  putting  in  this  pin  beater  on 
stock  up  to  1  9-16-inch,  claiming  that 
the  stock  is  more  thoroughly  cleaned. 
The  speed  of  the  pin     beater   (which 


has  three  arms)  is  higher  tha:i  that  of 
the  rigid  type,  being  1,500  revolutions 
per  minute,  whereas  a  two-armed 
rigid  type  would  be  run  about  1,450 
revolutions  per  minute.  The  pin  beat- 
er can  be  run  at  a  greater  speed  be- 
cause it  does  not  strike  the  cotton  a 
blow  but  rather  tears  it  apart.  If  a 
two-bladed,  rigid  type  of  beater  is 
used,  it  should  be  speeded  up 
so  as  to  give  about  42  beats  to  each 
inch  of  cotton  passing  through.  The 
total  weight  of  lap  at  the  front  should 
be  about  38  pounds.  Laps  varying 
more  than  one-half  a  pound  either  side 
of  this  standard  should  be  run  over 
again.  Observe  the  general  i)oint:s 
about  the  picker  room  that  have  been 
given  before.  The  laps  are  put  up  at 
the  card.    For  this  grade  of  goods 

THE  DRAFT 
should  not  be  less  than  100.  Use  me- 
dium wire  filled,  i.  e..  No.  120s,  for 
cylinder  and  No.  130s  for  doffer  and 
flats.  Speed  of  licker-in,  320,  flats  one 
revolution  every  45  minutes;  use  26- 
inch  or  large  diameter  dolTer.  Strip 
three  times  a  day  and  grind  cards  all 
over  once  a  month.  Groove  setting 
points  frequently  and  WtUch  the 
dead  roller  grinding  wheel  to  see  that 
it  is  straight. 

The  weight  of  the  sliver  at  the  front 
should  be  about  65  grains,  the  pro- 
duction being  700  pounds  per  week  of 
60  hours.  The  card  sliver  is  put 
through  three  processes  of  drawing, 
the  weight  at  the  front  being  70  grains 
per  yard. 

WATCH  THE  CLEARERS 

to  see  that  they  are  in  proper  condi- 
tion. Metallic  rolls  may  be  used  on 
this  class  of  work  to  great  advantage. 
If  leather  top  rolls  are  used,  keep 
them  up  in  good  shape.  The  drawing 
sliver  is  run  through  the  slubber  and 
made  into  .55  hank  roving.  This  is 
put  through  three  processes  of  fly 
frames  for  the  filling  yam,  the  hank 
roving  at  each  process  being  as  fol- 
lows: 1st,  1.50;  2d,  3.50.  and  jack,  8.25 
hank. 

We  will  consider  that  the  filling 
yarn  is  taken  to  the  ring  spinning 
room,  where  it  would  be  spun  In  368 
yarn  on  a  frame  having  the  following 
particulars:  Gauge  of  frame,  2% 
inches;  diameter  of  ring,  1'^  inches; 
length  of  traver.se,  5%  inches;  speed 
of  spindles,  8,900  revolutions  per 
minute.  After  being  treated  to  make 
it  damp,  the  filling  is  taken  to  the 
weaA'e  room  and  woven  a?  given 
above.  The  roving  for  the  warp  yarn 
'"^  is  put  through  two  processes  of  f.y 
"*  frame?    the   hank   roving   at   the  first 


104 


A    COTTON    FABRICS    GLOSSARY. 


intermediate  being  1.75  and  at  ttie 
jack  5.50  hank.  This  yarn  is  spun  in- 
to 2Ss  yarn  on  a  ring  frame  having 
the  following  particulars:  Gauge  of 
frame,  2%  inches;  diameter  of  ring,  1% 
inches;  length  of  traverse,  61/2  laches; 
speed  of  spindles,  9,700  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  warp  yarn  is  then  taken 
to  the  spoolers;  from  here  to  the 
warpers,  aid  the  warps  are  put  up  at 
the  slasher,  the  required  number  of 
ends  being  run  upon  a  beam  at  the 
head  end. 


Dyeing   Particulars. 
LIGHT  PINK. 
One-half     pound     Erika     pink;      20 
pounds  Glauber's;    2   pounds  sal  soda. 

SKY  BLUE. 
One  pound  diamine  sky  blue  F  F;  20 
pounds  Glauber's;  2  pounds  sal  soda. 
LIGHT    SLATE. 
One  per  cent  katigen  blue  black  B; 
3  per  cent  soda  ash;  20  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's;   1  per  cent  sodium  sulphide. 
OLD  GOLD. 
Two  per  cent  diamine  catechine  3  G; 
2  per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow  B;    Vs 
per   ceit  diamine  black  B   H;    30  per 
cent  Glauber's;    2  per  cent  sal  soda. 
LIGHT   SAGE    GREEN. 
One-half    per  cent    chloramine    yel- 
low M;  116  per  cent  benzo  fast  orange, 
S;  Vs  per  cent  benzo  fast  blue  B  N;  L-0 
per  cent  Glaubers;  2  per  ce  it  sal  soda. 
LIGHT  BROWN. 
One-half   per   cent    diamine     brown 
B;   V2  per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow  B; 
14  per  cent  diamine  catechine  3  G;  20 
per  cent  Glauber's:  2  per  cent  sal  soda. 
LIGHT  GREEN. 
One  per  cent  diamine  sky  blue  F  F; 
1  per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow  F  F; 
30  per  cent  Glauber's;   2  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

PEARL. 

Oie-quarter  per  cent  immedial  di- 
rect blue  B;  Vi  per  cent  immedial 
black  N  G;  %  per  cent  sodium  sul- 
phide; 20  per  cemt  Glauber's;  2  per 
cent  soda  ash. 

BLACK. 

Fifteen   per   cent    immedial   black   N 
N;  15  per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  3  per 
cent  soda  ash;  30  per  cent  Glauber's. 
NAVY  BLUE. 

Twelve  per  cent  thiogene  blue  B;  22 
per  cent  sodium  sulphide;    3  per  cent 
soda  ash;  30  per  cent  Glauber's. 
DARK  BROWN. 

Ten   per  cent   Ihiogene  brown   G;    6 


per  cent  sodium  sulphide;   30  per  cent 
Glauber's;   3  per  cent  soda  ash. 
BOTTLE  GREEN. 

Ten  per  cent  pyrogene  green  B;    12 
per  cent  sodium  sulphide;    3  per  cent 
soda  ash;  30  per  cent  Glauber's. 
ROSE. 

Mordant  for  200  gallons  water;  31-3 
pounds  tannic  acid;  run  through,  on 
jig  machine,  for  one  hour.  Pass 
through  a  clean  bath  of  two  pounds 
tartar  emetic  for  200  gallons  water 
half  hour;  wash  and  dye.  Two  pounds 
rhodamine  5  G. 

ROYAL  BLUE. 

Mordant  as  rose.  Dye,  l^/^  per  cent 
Victoria  blue  B. 

ROYAL  PURPLE. 

Mordant  as  rose.  Dye,  '%,  per  cent 
methyl  violet  R. 


TARLTON, 


Tarlton  is  a  fine,  open,  transparent 
muslin,  somewhat  similar  to  an  organ- 
die in  the  feel  and  finish,  though  a 
much  coarser  fabric.  The  cheaper  grade 
of  tarlton  resembles  a  mosquito  netting. 
Mosquito  netting,  however,  is  in  a  leno 
weave,  while  tarlton  is  but  a  plain 
woven  fabric.  The  goods  are  piece 
dyed  and  may  be  seen  m  any  color; 
some   are  finished   in  pure     white     or 


-    f 1 T 

---i — t 7 

—-^ )k jf- 

— -! * Hr- ■ -^ 


Fig-    1.    Drawing--in    Draft. 
l2    repeats.) 

bleached.  The  fabric  is  used  for  va- 
rious purposes,  the  finer  qualities  for 
women's  wear.  The  fabric  is  princi- 
pally used  for  draping  and  decorating 
purposes,  for  foundations  for  ladies' 
hats,  for  bunting  around  bird  cages, 
for  a  twofold  purpose — first  to  prevent 
the  birdseed  from  being  scattered  to 
the  floor,  and  second,  as  a  decorative 
feature.  Briefly  we  may  say  that  the 
fabric  is  intended  chiefly  for  drap- 
i'\g  and  decorating  purposes,  especial- 
ly the  cheaper  grades,  tlie  meshes  of 


A   COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY. 


1C5 


which  are  so  open  that  hardly  any 
lady  would  care  to  wear  a  dress  made 
of  it,  unless  she  were  anxious  to  exhib- 
it the  garments  which  she  would  be  ob- 
liged to  wear  under  it.  The  grade  of 
tarlton  under  consideration,  of  which 
an  analysis  will  follow,  is  entirely  too 
flimsy  for  a  dress  fabric.  If  the  goods 
are  taken  between  the  thumb  and 
forefinger  with  any  degree  of  firmness 
and  the  surface  of  the  fabric  is  drawn 
between  them,  the  threads  will  readily 


Doaa 
■■□c 

DDB* 

■■DC 

■■GO 


Fig.   2. 

give,  or  leave  their  original  place.  This 
would  certainly  be  a  poor  feature  in 
a  fabric  intended  for  dress  goods.  The 
fabric  is  woven  in  compai-atively  wide 
widths;  the  coarser  qualities  are  cnm- 
monly  58  inches  in  reed,  including 
selvedge.  The  seLvedge  is  about  %  of 
an  inch,  two  ends  in  one  heddle,  while 
the  body  of  goods  is  drawn  one  end  in 
one  heddle,  and  each  end  into  a  sep- 
arate dent  in  the  reed. 


harnesses,  in  the  following  order:  1,  3, 
2,  4,  the  chain  being  built  accordingly 
so  as  to  give  a  plain  weave.  The  warp 
is  sized  before  it  is  put  on  the  warp 
beam. 

ANALYSIS. 

Width  of  warp  in  reed.  58  inches. 
Finished  width,  521,4  Inches;  ends  per 
inch  finished.  20;  picks  per  inch  finish- 
ed, IS. 

Heed,  650x1. 

Ends  in  warp,  1,010;  SO  ends  sel- 
vedge, two  ends  in  one  heddle;  total, 
1,090  ends. 

The  take-up  during  the  weaving  is 
very  little;  the  take-up  in  the  finished 
goods,  about  1  per  cent.  After  the 
fabric  is  finished  the  threads  lie  prac- 
tically straight;  this  is  due  to  the 
openness  of  the  mesh.  This  readily  il- 
lustrates that  the  closer  the  weave, 
the  more  take-up  of  warp  yam. 

Warp  yarn,  l-:30s  cotton.  Filling, 
l-SOs  cotton.  Finished  weight,  10 
yards  equal  7  ounces.  The  finished 
fabric  carries  about  12  per  cent  of  siz- 
ing. 

FINISHING. 

After  the  fabric  is  taken  from  the 
loom,  it  is  sent  to  the  dyehouse.      The 


TARLTON. 


The  goods  in  v.-eaving  have  a  tend- 
ency to  roll  up.  that  is,  the  selvedges 
roll  toward  the  middle  of  the  fabric; 
this  is  overcome  by  holding  out  the 
selvedges  by  means  of  the  temple.  The 
temple  also  prevents  the  chafing  of 
the  warp  during  weaving. 

LOOM  REQUIRED. 

Any  Hght-built  loom  with  a  compar- 
atively high  running  speed  will  answer 
for  weaving  tarltons,  providing  it 
is  wide  enough  in  the  reed  space. 
The  warp  is  usually  drawn  in  on  four 


first  process  is  to  boil  it  off,  in  order 
to  rid  it  of  all  foreign  matter  possible; 
then  it  is  dyed  or  bleached  as  required. 
After  this  process  and  ;tfter  the  fabric 
is  dried,  it  is  then  immersed  in  size. 
Sizing  the  fabric  is  usually  dons  in 
front  of  the  drying  cylinders.  The  goods 
pass  from  the  size  trough  on  to  the 
drying  cylinder,  which  practically  com- 
pletes the  finishing  process. 

The  goods  are  then  doubled  and  put 
on  to  boards  in  the  form  of  rolls,  after 
which  they  are  ready  for  the  market. 


166 


A   COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  machinery  required  to  malve  the 
counts  of  yarn  of  which  tarlton  is 
made  v/ill  be  found  in  the  second  di- 
vision of  mills,  as  give;!  in  a  previous 
article.  The  counts  used  for  this  class 
of  goods  differ  slightly,  but  for  this 
article  we  will  consider  the  counts  to 
be  l-50s  for  the  warp  yarn  and  1-SOs 
for  the  jailing  yara.  These  yarns  are 
made  of  American  cotton  of  about  1%- 
inch  staple.  This  cotton  is  first  mixed 
by  hand,  as  large  a  quantity  being 
mixed  -it  one  time  as  possible.  In  fact, 
two  large  mixings  should  be  made  so 
that  one  batch  may  be  drying  out 
while  the  other  is  being  used.  At  this 
lX)int  the  good  sliver  from  all  the  ma- 
chines up  to  the  slubber  is  mixed  in, 
it  being  collected  at  regular  intervals 
from  the  machines.  An  eye  should  be 
kept  on  this 

WASTE 
by  the  one  in  charge  to  see  that  too 
much  waste  is  not  being  made  at  any 
one  machine  and  also  to  see  that  it  i.s 
broken  up  into  short  lengths  before  be- 
ing put  into  the  mixings.  Long  lengths 
of  sliver  v/aste  are  apt  to  wind  around 
the  various  rotating  parts  of  the  open- 
er and  cause  a  "bung  up,"  which  re- 
quires time  to  remove  and  also  is  apt 
to  cause  a  fire. 

If  trunking  is  used  to  connect  the 
opener  to  the  breaker  picker,  be  sure 
that  no  scraps  of  iron  or  other  m.etal 
are  around  where  they  can  work  into 
the  cotton,  as  this  is  also  apt  to  cause 
a  fire  by  x-^.oming  in  contact  with  the 
metallic  parts  of  the  r.Tachine  and 
striking  a  spark,which  ignites  the  oth-  ' 
er  cotton  very  quickly  and  often  causes 
a  fire  on  account  of  the  currents  of  air 
which  fan  it  into  a  flame.  Keep  the 
hopper  full  of  cotton  for  reasons  pre- 
A'iously  given.    The 

SPEED  OF  THE  BEATER 
(two-bladed  rigid  type)  of  the  opener 
is  1:500  revolutions  per  minute;  the 
total  weight  of  lap  at  the  front  is  40 
pounds.  These  are  doubled  four 
times  at  the  intermediate  picker.  The 
beater  of  this  mechine  may  be  either 
of  a  rigid  type  or  a  pin  beater.  If  of 
a  rigid  type  it  makes  1,400  revolutions 
per  minute;  if  a  pin  beater,  1,450  rev- 
olutions per  minute.  The  total  weight 
of  lap  at  the  front  of  this  machine  is 
38  pounds  or  a  12-ounce  lap.  These  laps 
are  put  up  at  the  finisher  picker  and 
doubled  4  into  1.  At  this  machine  the 
cut-roving  waste  is  mixed  in  with  the 
raw  sto-ck  in  the  proportion  of  one 
lap  of  cut  waste  to  three  laps  of 
raw  stock.  The  cut-roving  is  first  put 
through  a  process  to     take     out     the 


twist  and  then  run  through  a  picker  to 
form  it  into  a  lap.  The  beater  of  this 
machine  may  be  either  a  rigid  or  a  pin 
type.  If  the  former,  it?  speed  should 
be  1,450  revolutions  per  minute;  if  the 
latter,  1,500  revolutions  per  minute. 
The 

TOTAL  WEIGHT  OF  LAP 
at  the  front  of  this  machine  should  be 
3S  pounds  or  a  14i/^-ounce  lap.  At  this 
)nachine  all  laps  are  weighed,  and  if 
they  A'-ary  one-half  pound  from  the 
standard  weight  they  should  be  put  up 
at  the  back  and  run  over  again.  Al- 
ways keep  a  supply  of  laps  ahead  in 
case  of  breakdowns,  etc.  The  laps  are 
then  put  tip  at  the  caras.  The  speed 
of  the  licker-in  should  be  about  325 
revolution.s  per  minute;  flats  should 
make  one  complete  revolution  every  55 
minutes.  The  card  clothmg  should  be 
110s  for  cylinder  and  120s  for  doffor 
and  floats.  Use  a  large  doffer  (either 
26  or  27  inch  diameter).  Strip  cards 
three  times  a  day  and  see  that  they  are 
ground  all  over  once  a  month  a  whole 
day  (twice  a  month  grinding  half  a 
day    is  better). 

ALWAYS  GRIND  LIGHTLY. 

The  card  clothing  should  be  looked  af- 
ter at  intervals  to  see  that  it  is  not 
faced  or  hooked.  Before  grinding,  all 
jams  should  be  taken  and  flats  should 
be  kept  free  from  cotton  embedded  in 
the  wire  fillet.  After  grinding,  the 
parts  should  be  set  in  proper  rela- 
tion to  each  other.  The  sliver  at  the 
front  for  the  class  of  goods  under  de- 
scription shotild  weigh  65  grains  per 
yard  and  the  production  should  be 
about  700  pounds  per  week  of  60  hours. 
The  cotton  should  be  run  through 
three  processes  of  drawing  frames.  It 
will  be  found 

A  GREAT  ADVANTAGE 
to  run  metallic  top  rolls  for  this  grade 
of  goods.  The  weight  of  the  sliver  at 
the  finisher  drawing  should  be  about 
65  grains, the  doublings  at  each  process 
of  drawing  being  6  into  1.  The  hank 
roving  at  the  slubber  should  be  about 
.55.  The  slubber  roving  for  both  the 
warp  and  filling  roving  should  be  put 
through  three  processes  of  fly  frames, 
the  hank  roving  being  as  follows:  .^or 
warp,  first,  1.5''  hank:  second,  :i.50 
hank;  jack,  10  hank;  for  filling  yarn, 
first,  1.50;  second,  4  hank;  jack,  16 
hank. 

The  roving  for  warp  yam  should  be 
taken  to  the  ring  spinning  room  and 
spun  into  50s  coimt  on  a  frame  having 
the  following  particulars:  Gauge  of 
frame, 2%  inches;  diameter  of  ring,  V/2 
inches:  length  of  traverse.  6  inches; 
revolutions  per  minute  of  spindle,  10,- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


167 


000.  The  yarn  is  then  spooled  and 
warped  and  several  warps  put  up  at 
the  slaslier  and  the  required  number  of 
ends  run  on  to  a  beam  at  the  front. 
The  filling  yarn  is  spun  into  80s  on  a 
fran'.e  having  the  following  particu- 
lars: Gauge  of  frame,  2^,4iiiches;  di- 
ameter of  ring,  VA  inches;  length  of 
traverse,  5  inches;  revolutions  per 
minute  of  spindle,  7,400. 


Dyeing   Particulars. 

Tarltons  are  dyed  on  the  jig  ma- 
chine, or  the  color  is  boiled  up  in  the 
starching  process  with  the  starch.  The 
dyed  colors,  being  faster,  are  mostly 
used.  The  following  color  is  an  ex- 
ample of  a  starched  dyeing: 

ORANGE. 
One  gallon  of  water;  6  ounces  dex- 
trine; 2  ounces  tetrazo  orange  C  R. 
Mix  cold.  Boil  for  30  minutes.  Pass 
the  pieces  through  a  starch  mangle, 
and  dry  on  tenter  frame.  All  one-dip 
colors  can  be  dyed  after  this  formula 
and  any  shade  produced  by  varying 
the  amount  of  color. 

RED. 

Three  per  cent  tetrazo  red  B;  20  per 
cent  Glauber's;   2  per  cent  sal  soda. 
PINK. 
Four  ounces  benzo  fast  pink  2  B  L; 
10  per  cent  Glauber's;    1  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

LEMON  YELLOW. 
One-half  per  cent  chrysophenine;   10 
per  cent  Glauber's;  1  per  cent  sal  soda. 
GREEN. 
Three  per  cent  brilliant  benzo  green 
B;    20  per  cent  Glauber's;    2  per  cent 
saJ  soda. 

WINE. 
Two  per  cent  diamine  Bordeaux  B; 
20  per  cent  Glauber's;   2  per  ceat  sal 
soda. 

SCARLET. 
Two  per  cent  diamine  soarlet  B;   :i5 
per  cent  Glauber'^';  2  per  cent  sal  soda. 
LIGHT  BROWN. 
One-half  per  cent  diamine  catechine 
G;    ^4   per  cent  diamine  brown  B;    20 
per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal  soda. 
SLATE. 
One  per  cent  diamine  black  B  H;  20 
per  cent  Glauber's;   2  per  cent  sal  so- 
da. 

SKY  BLUE. 
One  per  cent  diamine  sky  blue  F  F; 
20  per  cent  Glauber's;    2  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

NAVY  BLUE. 
Three  per  cent  diamine  blue  R  W; 


20  per  cent  Glauber's;   2  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

BLACK. 
Five  per  cent  diamine  jet  black  0  O; 
20  per  cent  Glauber's;    2  per  cent  sad 
soda. 

MAUVE. 
One-half  per  cent  diamine  violet  N; 
20  per  cent  Glauber's;   2  per  cent  saJ 
soda. 

GRAY. 
One  per  cent  diamine  gray  G;  20  per 
cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal  soda. 
ROSE. 
One-half  per  cent  diamine     rose     B 
D;  15  per  cent  Glauber's;  1  per  cent  sal 
soda.     The  pieces   are     starched     and 
dried  on  a  tenter  frame. 


BROCATELLE. 


Brocatelle  is  a  coarse  brocaded  or 
figured  fabricof  cotton  and  wool  or  silk 
and  linen  or  cotton,  used  for  tapestry 
and  upholstery  and  sometimes  used 
for  dresses.  The  brocatelle  used  for 
dresses  is  much  finer  and  necessa*rily 
lighter  in  weight  than  the  fahric  used 
for  upholstery  purposes. 

We  will  here  consider  the  fabrics 
used  for  upholstery  purposes  only. 
This  may  be  classed  as  a  double  clo'Ui 
fabric,  with  two  warps  and  two  fill- 
ings, a  face  warp  and  weft  and  a  back 
wiarp  and  weft.  These  vrarps  and  fill- 
ings, however,  interweave  with  one  an- 
other, thereby  binding  together  the 
two  sets  of  warp  and  filling  threads, 
with  this  peculiarity,  that  the  face 
warp  threads  do  not  shov/  on  the  back 
of  the  fabric  nor  does  the  back  filling 
show  on  the  face  of  the  fabric,whiIe,on 
the  contrary,  the  fax:e  filling  shows  on 
the  bacJv  and  the  back  warp  threads 
show  on  the  face. 

The  face  war]-)  threads  give  body  to 
;md  also  form  the  ornamental  fea- 
ture of  the  fabric,  which  is  the  raised 
or  brocaded  figure  in  the  cloth. 

These  threads,  when  not  forming  the 
figure,  lie  buried  between  the  face  and 
back  filling  picks.  The  figure  thus 
formed  is  usxially  of  an  eight  harneris 
sateen  v.^eave,  the  end.s  floating  over 
seve  1  back  filling  picks  and  under  one. 
while  the  back  filling  is  used  princi- 
pally to  give  weight  to  the  fabric  and 
accentuate  the  raised   figure. 

Brocatelle,  as  already  mentioned,  is 
made  with  silk  and  wool,  linen  or  cot- 
ton; the  face  is  of  silk,  while  the  back 
has  wool,  linen  or  cotton,  depending 
on  the  quality  of  fabric  desired,as  does 


Il38 


A   COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY. 


also  the  quality  of  silk  used  in  the  fab- 
ric. 
The  yams  in  all  instances  are 
DYED  BEFORE  WEAVING. 
The  colors  and  number  used  depend 
upon  the  prevailing  fashion.  Some 
brocatelles  are  made  up  of  several  ool- 
ors  on  the  face  of  the  goods,  while 
again  others  have  but  two — ^the  figure 
and  ground  colors.  The  figure  color 
ip.  usually  darker  than  tiie  ground.  For 
example,  a  dark  olive  may  be  used  for 
figure  color,  that  is,  the  faoe  warp 
threads,  while  the  ground  color,  face 
fiUinc  picJis,  may  be  a  light  salmon. 
The  hack  warp  is  usually  the  same  a.i 
the  face  filling,  while  tlie  back  filling 
usually  blends  off  to   a  lighter  shade 


Dressing,  1  ends  olive  50-2  silk; 
].  end  salmon  2-llOs  coiton;  total,  5 
ends  per  warp  pattern. 

190  ends  per  inch  in  reed;  reeded  S 
ends  50-2  silk  and  2  ends  2-llOs  cotton 
in  one  dent;   19x10  denL  reed. 

Ends  per  inch  finished  200;  fin- 
ished width  of  fabric,  49.4  inches. 

Filling:  116  picks  per  inch;  5S.  21s 
silk  salmon;  58,  28s  linen  light  olive; 
total  116. 

Linen  300  yards  per  pound;  lOs*  cot- 
ton. 

Filling  arrangement:  1  pick  21s 
silk  face;  1  pick  2Ss  linen  back;  total, 
2  picks,  repeat. 

Weight  per  jarcl  of  finished  fabric, 
14.83  ounces. 


Fis 


of  olive.  The  object  is  to  have  the 
colors  blend  well  together  and  at  the 
same  time  form  a  harmonious  contrast. 
The  ornamental  feature  of  broca- 
telles is  elaborate  conventionalized 
floral  figures  which  cover  the  greater 
portion  of  the  surface  of  the  fabric, 
about  75  per  cent.  The  figures  are  hold 
and  rich,  repeating  about  iVz  times 
across  the  width  of  the  fabric.  Fig.  1 
gives  an  idea  of  the  character  of  de- 
sign used.  This  is  about  one-half  the 
gize  it  would  be  in  the  fabric. 

THE  CONSTRUCTION 
is  as  follows: 

7,904  ends  50-2  silk  face  v^arp. 
1,970  ends  2-nOs  rotton  back  warp. 
16  ends  4-20s  white  cotton  selvedge. 


Weight  of  various  j'amis  used: 
6.04  ounces  face  warp. 
2.60  ounces  face  filling. 

.70  oimce  back  warp. 
5.46  ounces  back  filling. 

.03  ounce  selvedge. 


9,896  ends  in  warp. 


14.83  ounces. 

LOOM  REQUIRED. 
Brocatelle  requires  a  heavy  jacquard 
loom.  A  Cromptuu  &  Knowles  com- 
bined broad  loom,  slow  speed,  would 
be  a  good  one.  The  patterns  require 
from  400  to  1,200  ends  and  over,  in 
order  to  repeat.  Consequently,  a  ma- 
chine that  can  operate  the  required 
number  of  ends  is  essential  for  the 
production  of  these  fabrics.  When  a 
jixeat  number  of  ends  are  required  for 
the  repeat  of  the  pattern,     two     ma- 


A   COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY. 


1(;9 


chines  are  combined;  foi-  exan)plp.2-G00 
maoliines  wiill  operate  a  1,200  end  pat- 
tern, but  usually  a  French  or  fine  in- 
dex machine  is  used  that  will  operate 
the  required  number  of  ends. 

The  pattern  to  be  woven  is  first 
stamped  on  cards  by  means  of  a  card 
cutting  machine.  This  machine  con- 
sists of  a  piunch  box,  containing  13 
punches;  if  a  600  machine,  25;  if  a  1,- 
200  machine,  24  for  cutting  the  small- 
er holes  and  one  for  the  peg  holes. 
These  cards,  when  placed  on  the  jac- 
Quard  machine  over  t!he  loom,  bear  a 
direct  relation  to  the  v>'arp  threads, 
raising  and  dropping  them  according 
to  the  pattern.  The  warp  threads  in 
the  drawing  in  are  Irept  separate  fro'in 
each  other;  that  is,  the  face  warp 
threads  are  drawn  throug'h  certain 
}niails  as  likewise  are  the  back  warp 
threads,  although  both  sets  of  threads 
are  represented  on  the  one  card. 

FINISHING. 

These  fabrics  reouire  no  finishing. 
They  are  smoothed  and  folded  and 
tiien    are  ready  for  the  'jpholsiterer. 


Carding   and    Spinning    Particulars. 

The  mills  which  make  the  cotton 
yarns  for  brocatelle  wili  be  foimd  in 
the  second  and  sometimes  the  first  di- 
vision of  mills,  as  given  in  a  previous 
lesson.  Brocatelle  is  a  fabric  made  up 
in  many  different  fibres,  but  the  fabric 
under  description  is  composed  of  silk 
and  cotton,  the  back  wurp  and  sel- 
vedge lieing  composed  of  cotton  jiarns. 
It  is  these  yams  that  we  will  describe. 
The  cotton  back  warp  yams  are  2-il')s 
cotton  yarns. while  theselvedge  is  com. 
posed  of  4-20s  cotton  yarns.  The  cot- 
ton used  for  the  back  warp  of  this 
count  would  he  of  a  good  American 
cotton  of  about  1  9-16  inch  staple.  This 
yarn  should  be  put  through  a  bale 
breaker  and  carried  to  ihe  bins  by 
means  of  a  blower  and  trunking.  Thrs 
will  insure  the  cotton  at  this  point  be- 
ing dry,  anr;  in  a  more  "picked  out" 
state  than  when  hand  mixing  is  done. 
The  cotton  is  mixed  at  the  bale 
breaker  in  the  usual  manner.each  bale 
being  first  stapled  to  make  sure  that 
the  cotton  is  all  up  to  standard. 

COTTON  1\TUST  BE  DRY. 

If  the  mixing  is  done  by  hand  it 
should  be  allowed  to  stand  as  lon,'^?  as 
possible  before  using,  so  that  it  will  be 
thoroughly  dry.  Too  much  care  cannot 
be  taken  at  this  point  as  all  carders 
know  what  trouble  damp  cotton  makes. 
The  srood  sliver  wa.=;te  from  the  ma- 
chines up  to  the  slubber  is  mixed  in  at 


this  point,  care  lieing  taken  to  see  that 
only  ihe  cotton  of  the  same  grade  and 
length  of  staple  is  thrown  into  the  bin. 
This  waste  should  not  be  put  all  in 
one  place,  but  should  be  distributed  all 
OA'^er  the  top  and  front  or  back  of  the 
mixing.  The  cotton  is  next  run 
through  an  opener  and 

THREE  PROCESSES     OF     PICKING 

At  the  opener  the  hopper  should  be 
Icept  well  filled  so  as  to  feed  the  break- 
er picker  an  even  sheet.  The  breaker 
pic]:er  beater  is  generally  of  the  rigid 
type,  either  two  or  three  blades  being 
used. 

If  two  bliades  are  used,  the  speed 
should  be  about  1,500  revolutions  per 
minute;  if  three  blade.".,  the  sp?ed 
shoiild  be  proportionately  slower.  The 
total  weight  of  the  lap  at  the  front 
is  37V2  pounds  or  a  14-ounce  lap.  These 
laps  are  doubled  four  times  at  the  in- 
termediate. This  picker  is  generally 
provided  with  a  iwo-bladed  beater,  the 
speed  of  which  for  this  class  of  cotton 
should  not  exceed  1,450  revolutions  per 
minute.    Some  overs.eers 

PRPJFER  A  PIN  BEATER 

at  the  machine  and  a  rigid  beater  at 
Ihe  finisher  and  some  just  the  reverse. 
If  a  bin  beater  is  used,  the  fan  does 
not  have  to  be  run  at  such  a  high  r?.te 
of  speed,  as  this  beater  creates  consid- 
erable draught  itself.  The  total  ^\eight 
of  the  lap  at  this  picK'er  is  ?>6  pounds 
or  a  13-ounce  lap.  These  are  put  up 
at  the  finisher  picker  and  doubled  4 
into  1.  The  speed  of  this  beater,  two- 
bladed  rigid  type,  is  1.400  revolutions 
per  minute.  The  total  weight  of 'the 
lap  is  35  pounds  or  a  12% -ounce  lap. 
The  cotton  at  this  picker  receives  42 
beats  per  minute.  The  lai»s  are  put 
up  at  the  card.  The  licker-in  srjeed 
should  be  about  350  revolutions  ])er 
minute.  The  top  flats  i-iake  one  cam- 
plete  revolution  in  40  minutes.  The 
cards  should  be  ground  and  set  once  a 
month,  stripped  three  limes  a  day  and 
cleaned  and  oiled  twice  a  day;  keep  the 
front  of  the  cards  always  clean  fro?n 
fiy,  etc.  Collect  flat  strips  at  regular 
intervals,  not  too  long  ap.art,  so  that 
they  will  fall  over  the  doffer  and  not 
get  into  the  good  work.  The  sliver  fl.t 
the  front  should  weigh  60  grains  per 
yard,  and  the  production  should  be  550 
pounds  per  week  of  60  hours.  This 
sliver  is  put  throu.gh 

THfiEE  PROCESSES   OF  DRAWING. 

The  ton  rolls  used  may  be  either  me- 
tallic or  leather  top  rolls.  These  sihOuld 
be  looked  out  for  at  all  times,  but 
esper-ially  so  in  hot  weather  to  see  that 
they    are    in    perfect   condition.    Keep 


170 


A   COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY. 


sweaty  hands  off  of  the  varnish 
on  the  rolls.  Varnish  rolls  frequently. 
A  small  piece  of  borax  in  the  mixture 
will  help  harden  the  varnish.  The 
weight  of  the  sliver  at  the  finisher 
drawiis  Is  60  grains  per  yard.  "When 
the  v/-eight  ?s  kept  at  the  drawings, 
They  should  be  sized  at  least  three 
times  a  day.  This  is  then  put  through 
the  slubber  and  made  into  .55  hank. 
The  roving;  is  then  put  through  three 
processes  of  fly  frames,  the  hank  rov- 
ing at  each  process  being  as  follows: 
First.  2.25;  second,  6.50,  and  jack.  IS.bO, 
The  roving  is  next  spun  into  110s  on 
a  frame  having  the  following  particu- 
lars: Diameter  of  ring,  1%  inches: 
longth  of  traverse,  5  inches;  speed  of 
spindle,  9,400  revolutions  per  mintite. 
This  is  then  spooled,  and  twisted  Into 
2-ply  yarn  and  then  run  on  a  warper 
and  through  a  slasher. 

COTTON  USED  FOR  SELVEDGE. 

The  cotton  to  make  the  selvedge 
yarn  is  1^,4-inch  staple.  At  the  pickers 
the  changes  from  the  above  are  as  fol- 
lows: Speed  of  beater,  breaker,  1,500 
revolutions  per  minute;  intermediate, 
1,450  revolutions  per  minute  and  fin- 
isher, 1,450  revoltttious  per  minute. 

The  weights  of  the  laps  are  as  fol- 
lows: Breaker,  40  pounds  or  a  16-ounce 
lap:  intermediate,  37  pounds  or  a  12- 
ounce  lap;  finisher,35  pounds  or  a  ViVz- 
ounce  lap.  At  the  cards  note  the  fol- 
lowing changes  from  the  back  warp 
yarn:  Speed  of  top  flats.  1  revolution 
every  50  minutes;  weight  of  sliver,  65 
grains  per  yard;  production  per  week 
of  60  hours,  750  pounds. 

Draft  of  card  should  not  be  over  100. 
At  the  finisher  drawing  the  weight  of 
sliver  at  the  finisher  is  70  grains  per 
yard.     It  is 

AN  ADVANTAGE 

to  use  metallic  top  rolls  on  this  stock 
at  the  drawing  frame.  Slubber  roving 
should  be  .55  hank.  There  should  be  two 
processes  of  fly  frames,  the  hank  rov- 
ing at  each  process  being  as  follows: 
First  intermediate,  1.75  hank;  second, 
5  hank.  The  moving  is  then  taken  to 
the  spinning  ix)om  and  spun  into  20s 
yam  on  a  frame,  the  particulars  of 
which  have  been  given  before.  The 
yarn  Is  then  spooled  and  t-wisted  into 
4-ply  20s. 


ber's  salt  and  3  per  cent  sulphuric  acid. 
For  100  pounds  wool  yarn: 

LIGHT  SLATE. 
Four  ounces     patent     blue     B;      % 
ounce  orange  I   I. 

OLIVE  BROWN. 
One  per  cent  orange  II;     %    ounce 
lanafuchsine  S  B;  4  ounces  fast  yellow 
S;  1  ounce  indigo  blue  N. 

LIGHT  BROWN. 
Two  per  cent  orange  II,  iy2  per  cent 
fast  yellow  extra;   4  ounces  azo  crim- 
son L;  6  ounces  fast  green  B. 
OLIVE  GREEN. 
One  and  three-quarters  per  cent  in- 
digo blue  N;   1  per  cent  tropaeoline  O 
O. 

GREEN. 
Two  and  one-half     per  cent    indigo 
blue  N;  V2  per  cent  fast  yellow  S;  1% 
tropaeoline  O    O. 

BLACK. 
Five  per  cent  palatine  black  4  B. 

VIOLET. 
Two  per  cent  acid  violet  4  B  N. 

SCARLET. 
Two  per  cent  palatine  scarlet  4  R. 

SA.LMON. 
One   and     one-half     ounces     rlioda- 
raine  5  G;   20  grains  eosine  yellowish. 
ROSE. 
Five  per  cent  rhodamine  G. 
LAVENDER. 
One  ounce  aoid  violet  4     B     N;     30 
grains  orange  I  I:  100  gi-ains  fast  acid 
violet  10  B. 


Dyeing   Particulars. 

The  colors  aiv  d\  td  on  the  silk,  wool, 
o-r  cotton,  in  the  yam.  The  colore 
used  dppeni  on  the  prevailing  fashion. 

The  following  v,-ool  colors  are  dyed 
in   the  acid  hath  of  20  per  cent  Glau- 


SILK  COLORS. 
Silk  yarn  is  dyed   in  the  soap  bath 
with  the  addition  of  acetic  aoid. 
SALMON. 
One  ounce  rhodamine  5  G. 

LIGHT  TiAVENDER. 
One-quarter  acid  violet  4  B  N;   100 
grains  rhodamine  G. 

OLIVE  GREEN. 
One  per  cent  fast  green  B;     1     per 
cent  fast  yellow  Ex.;  4  ounces  orange 
I  I. 

ROSE. 
One  per  cent  rhodamine  5  G. 

NAVY   BLUE. 
Two   per   cent    indigo     blue     N;      4 
ounces  acid  violet  2  B  N. 
RED. 
One  per  cent  fast  red  R. 
LIGHT  GREEN. 
One  per  cent  acid  Victoiia  green  S  N. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


171 


LIGHT   YELLOW. 
Four  ounces  tartarzine  S. 

COTTON    COLORS. 
BLUE. 
Four  per  cent  brilliant  benzo  blu<3  6 
B;    20  per  oeait  Glauber's;   2  per  cent 
sal  soda. 

LIGHT  BROV/N. 
Two   per   cent  diamine  brown  E;    1 
per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow  B;  20  per 
cent  Glauber's;   2  per  cent  sal  soda. 
OLIVE  BROWN. 
Three  per  cent  chloramine  yellow  M; 
'^/z  per  cent  benzo  dark  greea  B;  V^  per 
cent  benzo  brown  B. 
TAN. 
One-half  per  cent  benzo  fast  orange 
S;  2  per  cent  chrysophenine;  2  ounces 
benzo  fast  black. 

GREEN. 
Eight  per  cent  immedial  green  G  G; 
S  per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  3  i)er  cent 
sofla  ash;  30  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 
NAVY  BLUE. 
Ten  per  cent  immedial  in  done  3  B; 
10  per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  3  per  cent 
soda  ash;   30  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 
OLIVE. 
Five   per   cent  pjTogene  olive  G:    5 
per  cent  sodium  sulphide;   2  per  cent 
soda  ash:  20  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 
RED. 
Five  per  cent  r)enzo  Tast  red  4  B  S; 
?.0  per  cent  Glauber's;   2  per  cent  sal 
soda. 


TERRY  PILE  FABRICS, 


Terry  is  a  fabric  in  which  the  dis- 
tinguishing effect  is  small  loops  of 
warp  yarn,  uncut  pile,  projecting  from 
one  or  both  sides  of  the  cloth,  these 
loops  being  tied  to  the  ground  cloth  in 
regular  or  irregular  order  as  desired. 

The  terry  principis  of  construction. 
which  has  been  developed  with  the  pow- 
er loom,  is  used  extensively  in  the 
manufacture  of  cotton  terry  toweling, 
known  generally  as  Turkish  toweliig. 

These  towels  are  made  in  various 
sizes  and  grades  from  the  cheap  fab- 
rics made  almost  entirely  from  waste 
yarns  to  tht)se  made  of  the  best  qual- 
ity of  cotton  obtainable. 

Terry  pile  is  the  simplest  of  the 
many  types  of  warp  pile  goods,  the  ef- 
fect being  obtained  without  the  use  of 
wires. 


Two  warps  are  required:  (a)  the 
ground   warp;    (b)    the  pile  warp. 

The  ground  warp  contains  the  sel- 
vedge and  ground  ends,  and  is  wound 
on  the  regular  loom  beam.  This  beam 
is  heavily  weighted  in  the  loom.  The 
pile  warp  is  usually  wound  on  a  light 
beam  and  is  allowed  to  let  off  the  warp 
very  easily. 

The  reason  for  the  difference  in  ten- 
sion on  the  warps  is  to  allow  the 
ground  warp  to  remain  tight    and  the 


FIG  *■ 


®3)<®X 


no  s 


pile  warp  to  go  forward  easily  when  it 
is  required  to  loop. 

Figs.  1,  2  and  3  will  serve  to  illus- 
trate the  relation  of  a  terry  design  to 
tlte  cloth.  Circles  indicate  picks; 
dotted  lines,  ground  ends;  continuous 
lines,  pile  ends.  The  numbered  ends 
in  each  figure  correspond. 

Assuming  F  to  represent  the  fell  of 
the  cloth,  and  the  last  pick  of  a  re- 
peat. Fig.  2  shows  how  the  three  suc- 
ceeding picks  A,  B  and  C  would  appear 
when  about  to  be  driven  to  the  fell  of 
the  cloth,  and  Fig.  3  a  section  of  the 
cloth  with  the  loop  completed. 

Figs.  4,  5  and  6  illustrate  a  design 
and  sectional  view  of  a  terry  cloth  In 
which  the  pile  is  distributed  on  one 
side  of  the  cloth  only.  Cloth  of  this 
type  is  used  for  furniture  coverings 
and  as  a  ground  for  embroidered  ef- 
fects. 

Figured  terry  goods  are  made  by 
com  hi  Ting  colored     yarns     and     terry 


172 


A   COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY. 


effects,  the  terry  being  thrown  on  eith- 
er side  when  the  other  is  weaving  a 
ground  weave.  The  face  and  bacli  are 
reversible. 

LOOM    REQUIRED. 

In  order  to  weave  terry  toweling  a 
dobby  loom  differing  from  the  ordi- 
nary loom  is  required.  The  principal 
point  of  difference  is  in  Its  having 
mechanism  to  allow  two  (ia  three-pick 
terry)  out  of  three  picks  to  be  beat- 
en up  to  within  a  certain  distance  of 
the  fell  of  the  cloth,  this  distance  de- 
pending upon  the  length  of  pile  de- 
sired, then  forcing  these  two  picks, 
along  with  every  third  pick,  to  the 
fell  of  the  cloth. 

The  object  of  this  is  to  allow  the 
first  two  picks  to  fasten  themselves 
into  the  pile  ends,  say  one-half  inch 
from  the  cloth,  so  that  when  the  three 
picks  are  driven  home  together  the 
pile  ends  will  go-  along  with  them,mak- 
ing  a  loop  slightly  less  than  v...  inch. 
At  the  same  time  the  three  picks  will 
slide  over  the  ground  ends,  these  in- 
terlacing with  the  filling  as  in  an  or- 
dinary cloth. 

To  accomplish  the  three-pick  move- 
ment to  form  the  loop  one  of  two 
methods  is  adopted:  (a)  By  a  rocking 
or  oscillating  reed  which  is  held  back 
or  forced  to  the  fell  of  the  cloth  as  de- 
sired; (b)  by  a  rocking  whip  roll  and 
back  roll  terry  motion.  With  this  de- 
vice the  reed  Is  held  firm,  the  cloth  be- 
ing moved  back  toward  the  rear  of  the 
loom  every  third  pick.  A  backward 
and  forward  movement,  similar  to  that 
of  the  cloth,  is  imparted  to  the  temples. 
The  length  of  pile  can  be  varied  as  de- 
sired, or  the  weave  caa  be  changed 
from  terry  to  regular,  or  from  regular 
to  terry  as  required. 

A  loom  for  weaving  terry  towels,  be- 
sides having  mechanism  for  making 
the  pile,  contains  mechanism  for  one 
or  more  of  the  following:  (a)  A  box 
motion,  for  inserting  different  colors 
or  kinds  of  filling;  (b)  a  fringe  motion, 
for  making  fringe  at  the  end  of  each 
towel;  (c)  a  motion  for  changing  the 
weave  from  terry  to  re'gular  construc- 
tion or  vice  versa  at  the  beginning  and 
end  of  each  towel.  This  is  usually  ac- 
complished with  a  multiplier  or  re- 
peater, or  with  a  measuring  device 
which  automatically  brings  into  play 
the  pattern  chain  reqaiviMi. 

Terry  looms  are  usually  heavily  built 
ana  contain  stands  for  at  least  two- 
warp  beams. 

FINISHING. 

Some  toweling  is  sold  in  the  gray, 
but  most  of  it  is  bleached.  First  proc- 
ess: Boiled  with  4  per  cent  caustic  soda, 


boil  for  12  hours,  rinsed  through, 
water;  teco.id,  again  bf»iled  with  \  per 
cent  caustic  soda,  boil  for  10  hours; 
third,  passed  through  acid  bath,  % 
degree  Tw.  sulphuric  acid,  rinsed  with 
water;  fourth,  passed  through  chlorine 
water  at  %  degree  Tw.  aad  laid  down 
in  bin  until  white, ;  fifth,  passed 
through  acid  bath  of  %  degree  Tw. 
sulphuric  acid  and  rinsed  well  with 
water,  dried  and  cut  up  into  towels. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

ThQ  yarns  of  which  terry  cloth  are 
made  vary  from  those  made  of  waste 
stock  to  those  made  of  long  staple 
combed  stock  and  it  would  be 
hard  to  describe  one  particular  grade 
to  make  it  cover  all  terry  cloth.  For 
this  article  we  will  suppose  the 
average  count  of  the  yarn  is  l-45s 
and  will  give  the  carding  and  spin- 
ning particulars  for  this  count  of 
yarn  in  both  warp  and  filling  yarns. 
We  will  also  consider  that  the  stock 
is   carded. 

THE  MACHINERY  USED 
would  be  found  in  the  equipment  found 
in  the  second  division  of  mills,  as  giv- 
en in  a  previous  article.  The  cotton 
would  be  brought  from  the  cotton 
shed  and  sampled  by  the  one  in 
charge  of  this  job;  sometimes  it  is 
the  overseer,  sometimes  the  "super," 
and  sometimes,  in  large  mills,  a  cot- 
ton sampler  is  employed.  All  bales 
containing  cotton  not  up  to  grade  or 
length  of  staple  should  be  placed  at 
one  side  and  not  put  into  the  mixing. 
The  mixing  should  be  as  large  as  pos- 
sible and  may  be  done  either  by  hand 
or,  as  is  more  generally  the  custom,  by 
a  bale  breaker.  One  bale  breaker  is 
able  to  take  care  of  a  great  many 
bales  of  cotton  per  week.  The  cotton 
is  fed  to  the  bale  breaker  from  several 
bales  of  cotto'n,  a  little  being  taken 
from  each.  This  is  so  that  the  cotton 
from  all  the  bales  will  be  intermixed, 
and  in  this  manner  a  more  even  yarn 
is  apt  to  result.  After  passing  the 
bale  breaker  the  cotton  is  conveyed  to 
the  mixing  bins  by  an  arrangement  of 
endless  lattices,  which  may  be  moved 
when  it  is  desired  to  drop  the  cotton 
into  another  bin. 

THE  MIXING 
should  be  allowed  to  stand  as  long  as 
possible,  especially  if  the  mixing  is 
done  by  hand.  The  cotton  is  then 
put  through  a  bale  breaker  and  three 
processes  of  picking.  The  hopper  of 
the  opener  or  feeder  should  always  be 
kept  more  than   half  full   so   that  the 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


173 


spiked  lifting  apron  will  always  be 
carrying  a  load  to  the  pin  beater.  In 
this  manner  an  even  amount  of  cotton 
is  fed  to  the  feed  rolls  of  the  break- 
er picker.  The  breaker  picker  is  pro- 
vided with  either  a  two  or  three  armed 
rigid  type  of  beater.  If  two  bladed, 
the  speed  should  not  exceed  1,500  rev- 
olutions per  minute  for  this  grade  and 
staple  of  cotton  (1%-inch  peeler). 
The  total  weight  of  the  lap  at  the 
front  end  of  the  breaker  picker  is  40 
pounds  or  a  16-ounce  lap.  These  laps 
are  put  up  at  the  intermediate  picker 
and  doubled  4  into  1.  This  picker  may 
be  provided  either  with  a  rigid  or  pin 
type  of  beater.  They  both  have  a 
great  many  favorites  among  the  trade. 
The  speed  of  a  rigid  two-bladed  type 
should  be  about  1,450  revolutions  per 
minute. 

THE   FAN   SPEED 

should  be  about  1,050  revolutions  per 
minute.  If  a  pin  beater  is  used,  the 
speed  of  the  fan  may  be  reduced.  This 
is  on  account  of  the  amount  of  draft 
that  this  beater  creates  itself.  The 
total  weight  of  the  lap  at  the  head  end 
of  this  machine  is  37  pounds  or  a  12- 
ounce  lap.  These  laps  are  put  up  at 
the  finisher  picker  and  doubled  4  into 
1.  What  has  been  said  of  the 
beater  at  the  intermediate  picker  ap- 
plies here,  except  that  the  speed  of  a 
two-bladed  rigid  type  should  be  1,400 
revolutions  per  minute.  This  gives 
the  cotton  passing  through  it  about  42 
beats  or  blows  per  inch.  The  cut  rov- 
ing is  brought  to  the  picker  room  and 
put  through  a  special  picker  (to  take 
out  the  twisf)  and  then  is  run  through 
a  breaker  picker  to  form  it  into  a  lap, 
and  these  laps  are  mixed  with  the  raw 
stock  at  the  finisher  picker  in  the  pro- 
portion of  three  laps  raw  stock  to  one 
lap  cut  waste.     The  total 

WEIGHT  OF  THE  LAP 
at  the  front  of  the  finisher  picker 
should  be  about  35  pounds  or  a  12^- 
ounce  lap.  These  laps  are  put  up  at 
the  card;  the  draft  of  which  should 
not  exceed  110.  The  card  clothing 
used  should  be  for  carding  medium 
counts.  This  should  be  ground  at 
least  once  a  month  all  over,  after 
which  the  card  should  be  reset.  Use 
gauges  that  are  straight  and  not  bent 
all  out  of  shape.  The  cards  should 
be  stripped  three  times  a  day  and  kept 
clean.  The  speed  of  the  licker-in 
should  be  about  300  revolutions  per 
minute  and  the  flats  should  make  one 
complete  revolution  every  50  minutes. 
The  weight  of  the  sliver  should  be  65 
grains  per  yard,  with  a  production  of 
700    pounds   for   a    week  of   CO   hours. 


Use  as  large  a  doffer  as  possible.  This 
sliver  is  put  up  at  the  drawing  frame 
and  doubled  G  into  1.  The  sliver 
should  be  run  through 
THREE  PROCESSES  OF  DRAWING. 
Either  metallic  or  leather-covered  top 
rolls  may  be  used  to  good  advantage. 
Whichever  top  roll  is  used,  it  should 
be  kept  in  the  best  of  shape.  The 
weight  of  the  sliver  at  the  front  of  the 
finisher  drawing  should  be  about  70 
grains  per  yard.  This  is  put  up  at 
the  slubber  and  made  into  .55  hank 
roving.  This  is  put  through  three 
processes  of  fly  frames  and  made  into 
9  hank,  the  hank  roving  at  each  proc- 
ess being  as  follows:  1st,  1.25  hank; 
2d,  3.50  hank,  and  fine,  9  hank.  This  is 
then  taken  to  the  ring  spinning  room 
and  made  into  45s  warp  yarn  on  a 
frame  with  the  following  particulars: 
Gauge  of  frame,  2%  inches;  diameter  of 
ring,  iy2  inches;  length  of  traverse,  6 
inches;  speed  of  spindles,  10,000  rev- 
olutions per  minute;  twist  per  inch, 
30.19.  This  is  then  spooled  and 
warped  and  the  required  number  of 
warps  put  up  at  the  slasher  to  give  the 
required  number  of  ends  at  the  front 
warp.  For  making  45s  filling  yarn 
use  a  frame  having  the  following  par- 
ticulars: Diameter  of  ring,  1%  inches; 
length  of  traverse,  5l^  inches;  twist 
per  inch,  25;  speed  of  spindles,  8,500 
revolutions  per  minute. 


SATINE,  or  SATEEN. 


Satine,  or  sateen,  is  a  cotton  fabric 
with  a  smooth,  lustrous  surface  resem- 
bling satin.  The  latter  is  made  of 
silk.  The  weaves  for  satins  and  sat- 
ines  are  similar. 

Satines,  which  are  of  two  kinds, 
warp  satines  and  filling  satines,  are 
made  in  a  great  variety  of  weights  and 
qualities,  and  are  used  for  many  pur- 
poses. 

The  bulk  of  the  goods  are  made  on 
the  filling  satin  principle  and  are 
used  for  linings,  corset  covers,  dress 
goods,  etc.  These  are  usually  woven 
white  and  are  bleached,  or  piece  dyed 
in  varying  colors. 

Warp  satines  are  used  for  mattress 
and  furniture  coverings. 

Stripe  effects  are  made  by  using  a 
warp  containing  different  colors  and 
a  warp  satine  weave.  Warp  and  filling 
satines  are  also  printed,  to  a  consid- 
erable  extent,    the   smooth    face   lend- 


174 


A   COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY. 


ing  itself  very  readily  to  this  process. 

COLORED  EFFECTS 
made  in  the  loom  are  confined  to 
stripes  made  when  a  warp  satine 
weave  is  used,  because  the  warp  cov- 
ers the  filling  almost  entirely.  In  a 
filling  satine  the  filling  practically  cov- 
ers all  the  warp,  and  color  inserted 
here  would  show  in  harry  effect  across 
the  cloth. 

The  smooth,  lustrous  effect  of  sat- 
ines  is  due  in  large  measure  to  the 
weave  used.  Briefly  stated,  satine 
weaves  are  made  on  from  five  ends  up- 
wards; they  are  complete  on  the  same 
number  of  ends  as  picks;  each  end 
and  each  pick  interlaces  only  twice 
in  each  repeat;  the  interlacings  do  not 
support  each  other,  at  least  one  end 
or  one  pick  separating  them. 

In  filling  satines  each  end  is  raised 
over  one  pick  only  in  eacli  repeat; 
warp  satiaes.  vice  versa. 

Figs.  1  and  2  illustrate  the  only  two 
filling  satine  weaves  that  can  be  made 
on  five  ends.    Both  of  these  weaves  are 


■■■DIH 

■■■■■■a 

BBDBBBB 

BBBBOBB 

OnDBD 

nnann 

■■DHBI 

BBBBBBG 

DBoaa 

DDQaB 

■■■■■DB 

BOBBBBB 

ODDDB 

Daaoa 

■DBBBBB 

BBBDBBB 

DDBaa 

DDDBD 

BBBBDBfl 

BBMBBQB 

maaaa 

■  GDDn 

DBBBBBB 

DBBBBBB 

used  in  the  trade,  some  buyers  prefer- 
ring one  to  the  other,  according  to  the 
effect  desired. 

Figs.  3  and  4  show  warp  satine 
weaves  on  seven  ends  each. 

The  constructions  of  filling  satine 
fabrics  vary  from  about  64  to  over  100 
sley  and  120  to  300  or  more  picks. 

The  following,  which  show  results 
of  the  analyses  of  five  different  satine 
fabrics,  will  serve  to  show  that  the 
satine  principle  of  construction  is  used 
in  fabrics  of  widely  differing  qualities. 

Sample  No.  1.  Colored  warp  satine 
stripe  cloth  for  upholstery;  96  ends 
and  52  picks  per  inch;  7s  cotton  yam 
for  warp  and  14s  for  filling.  Woven 
with  weave  Fig.  5,  a  5-end  warp  satine 
weave. 

The  filling  in  this  particular  sam- 
ple is   twisted  harder  than  the  warp. 

Sample  No.  2.  A  fine  warp  satine  of 
good  quality,  made  with  a  7-end  weave; 
152  sley  and  80  picks;  2-50s  warp  and 
30s  filling. 

Samples  1  and  2,  as  well  as  almost 
all  warp  satines,on  account  of  the  large 
proportion  of  warp  on  the  face,  would 
be  woven  face  down  in  the  loom. 

Sample  No.  3.  A  filling  satine  of 
fair  quality;  72  sley  and  150  picks;  45s 
warp  and  70s  filling.     Weave  Fig.  1. 

Sample  No.  4.  96  sley  and  280  picks; 
45'S  warp  and  97s  filling.  Weave  Fig.  1. 

Sample  No.     5.     104     sley    and     210 


picks;  60s  warp  and  75s  filling.  Weave 
Fig.  1. 
Samples  4  and  5  are  of  good  quality. 

KIND  OF  LOOM  REQUIRED. 

Satines,  whether  warp  or  filling,  are 
usually  woven  on  single  box  cam  looms 
of  heavier  build  than  plain  sheeting 
looms.  The  selvedges  are  actuated  by 
a  selvedge  motion.  If  woven  on  dob- 
by  looms,  the  selvedge  motion  is  dis- 
pensed with. 

One  warp  only  is  required.  The 
ends  are  drawn  through  the  harnesses 
in  straight  order. 

In  practice  it  has  been  found  ad- 
visable, when  weaving  heavily  picked 
satines,  to  use  a  reed  that  is  no  deep- 
er than  is  necessary.  For  warp  satine, 
on  account  of  the  large  number  of 
ends  and  comparatively  few  picks  per 
inch,  deeper  reeds  are  used,  so  that  the 
wires  will  give,  to  some  extent,  for 
knots. 

FINISHING   SATINES. 

Satine  tickings  are  sheared  and  then 
calendered  with  hot  steam  rollers,  the 
steaming  being  done  in  front  of  the 
machines;  the  appearance  is  improved 
by  gas  singeing.  A  method  of  finish- 
ing ordinary  satines  is  to  first  saturate 
them  with  a  mixture  of  corn  or  potato 
starch,  China  clay  or  baryta  and  tal- 
low. To  this  is  added  soap  or  oleine, 
with  wax  and  glue  size.  Tliey  are  then 
mangled,  dried,  damped,  calendered, 
folded  and  pressed. 

For  printed  or  dyed  satines,  starch 
with  a  small  portion  of  soda  crystals 
for  a  stiff  finish,  and  soluble  oil  with 
soda  for  a  soft  finish  are  used. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Satines  are  made  up  of  various 
counts  of  yarns,  the  different  samples 
analyzed  being  only  a  few  of  the  va- 
rious grades  made,  but  they  illustrate 
the  various  grades  very  well.  For  the 
carding  and  spinning  particulars  of  a 
satine.sample  No.  5  will  be  taken  as  an 
example.  This  is  made  up  of  combed 
yarns  of  60s  for  vsnarp  and  75s  for  fill- 
ing. The  cotton  used  would  be  Egyp- 
tian of  1%-inch  staple.  This  grade  of 
satine  is  made  in  either  the  second  or 
third  division  of  mills  as  give"n  in  a 
previous  lesson.     Of  course 

THE  EQUIPMENT 
will  have  to  include  combers.  The  cot- 
ton is  first  sampled  and  then  mixed  In 
a  manner  that  has  been  described  in 
previous  lessons.  It  is  better  to  use 
a  bale  breaker,  but  cotton  may  be 
mixed  by  hand.  If  mixed  by  hand,  let 
the  mixing  stand  a  little  longer  to  dry 
and  open  out  as  the  cotton  is  com- 
pressed very     tightly     in     the     bales. 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


175 


These  bales  weigh  considerably     more 
than  the  American  bales. 

The  good  waste  from  the  machines 
up  to  the  slubber  should  be  mixed  in 
at  the  mixing  bin.  The  cotton  is  next 
put  through  an  opener  and  three  proc- 
esses of  picking.  The  hopper  of  the 
opeuer  should  always   be  kept 

OVER  HALF  FULL, 
so  that  an  even  amount  of  cotton  will 
be  fed  to  the  breaker  picker.  The 
breaker  picker  is  provided  with  either 
a  two  or  three  bladed  beater  of  a  rigid 
type.  If  the  former,  the  speed  should 
be  about  1,350  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  total  weight  of  the  lap  at  the  front 
should  be  40  pounds  or  a  16-ounce  lap. 
These  laps  are  put  up  at  the  interme- 
diate picker  and  doubled  4  into  1.  'ine 
beater  of  this  picker  is  either  a  two 
or  three  bladed  rigid  or  a  pin  beater. 
If  the  former,  the  speed  of  it  should  be 
1,250  revolutions  per  minute.  If  a 
pill  beater  is  used,  the  fan  speed  should 
be  reduced  for  reasons  given  in  a  pre- 
vious article.  The  total  weight  of  the 
lap  at  the  front  should  be  36  pounds 
or  a  12-ounce  lap.  These  laps  are 
doubled  4  into  1  at  the  finisher  picker. 
At  this  picker  the  cut  roving  waste, 
which  has  previously  been  put  through 
a  roving  picker,  to  take  out  the  twist, 
and  a  breaker,  to  form  the  fluffy  mass 
into  a  lap,  is  mixed  in  in 

THE  PROPORTION 
of  three  laps  of  raw  stock  to  one  lap  of 
cut  roving  waste.  If  the  equipment  of 
machinery  does  not  include  a  roving 
picker,  the  cut  roving  is  mixed  in  at 
the  mixing  bin,  care  being  taken  to 
spread  it  over  the  entire  mixing.  The 
speed  of  the  finisher  picker  beater  of  a 
rigid  two-bladed  type  is  1,200  revolu- 
tions per  minute.  The  total  weight  of 
the  lap  at  the  front  is  35  pounds  or  a 
1214-ounce  lap.  These  laps  are  put  up 
at  the  card.  The  wire  fillet  used 
should  be  120s  for  cylinder  and  130s  for 
doffer  and  flats.  Use  a  26  or  27  inch 
diameter  doffer.  The  speed  of  the  cyl- 
inder should  be  160  revolutions  per 
minute;  licker-in,  300  revolutions  per 
minute.  Top  flats  should  make  one 
complete  revolution  in  35  minutes.  The 
draft  of  the  card  01  this  stock  should 
not  be  less  than  125. 

THE  CARDS 
.  should  be  stripped  three  times  a  day 
and  ground  at  least  once  a  month,  at 
which  time  the  various  settings  should 
be  gone  over.  Set  doffer  to  cylinder 
with  a  5  gauge.  The  sliver  at  the  front 
weighs  55  grains  per  yard  and  the 
production  is  about  475  pounds  per 
week  of  60  hours.  This  sliver  is  taken 
to  the  sliver  lap  machine  and  doubled 


14  into  1  for  an  S%-inch  lap  (wide)  or 
20  into  1  for  a  10%-inch  lap.  These  laps 
are  generally  put  through  a  ribbon  lap 
machine,  the  weight  of  them  being  330 
grains  per  yard  for  an  8%-inch  lap  or 
380  grains  for  a  lOi^-inch  lap.  The 
laps  are  doubled  6  into  1  at  the  ribbon 
lap,  the  weight  at  the  front  being  265 
for  an  8%-inch  lap  and 320  grains  for  a 
1014-inch  lap.  These  laps  are  put  up 
at  the  comber  and  doubled  either  6  or 
8  into  1,  according  to  whether  the 
comber  is  a  six  or  eight  head  comber. 

THE  EIGHT-HEAD  COMBER 
is  the  one  that  is  being  put  in  nowa- 
days, very  few  of  the  six-head  being 
sold.  The  speed  of  the  comber  should 
be  at  least  90  nips  per  minute,  and 
may  run  up  as  high  as  105.  The  per- 
centage taken  out  should  be  about  20. 
The  weight  of  the  sliver  at  the  front 
is  40  grains  per  yard.  The  comjDed 
sliver  is  next  put  through  two  processes 
of  drawing,  the  speed  of  the  front 
roll  being  400  revolutions  per  minute. 
Either  metallic  or  leather-covered  top 
rolls  may  be  used,  generally  the  latter. 
These  should  be  varnished  frequently 
and  those  that  are  damaged,  fluted, 
loose  or  not  true  should  not  be  run. 
If  the  latter,  they  may  be  buffed,  as 
may  also  the  leather  rolls  at  the 
comber.  See  that  the  stop  motions 
are  all  in  working  order,  and  that  the 
traverse  motion  is  set  and  working  so 
that  the  whole  surface  of  the  leather 
rolls  is  used. 

THE  SETTING 
or  spread  of  the  rolls  for  this  stock 
should  be  1%  inches  front  roll  to  sec- 
ond: I'l/^  inches  second  roll  to  third, 
and  1%  or  1%  inches  third  to  back  roll 
according  to  bulk  of  cotton  being  fed. 
The  doublings  at  the  drawing  frames 
are  6  into  1.  The  weight  of  the  sliver 
at  the  front  is  60  grains  per  yard.  This 
sliver  is  put  through  the  slubber  and 
made  into  .70  hank  roving,  after 
which  it  is  put  through  three  processes 
of  fly  frames  and  made  into  the  follow- 
ing hank  roving  at  each  frame:  First 
intermediate. 1.75;  second  intermediate, 
4.50;  and  fine,  15:  at  the  fine  frame  the 
lays  per  inch  on  the  bobbin  being  48. 

The  standard  for  twist  for  this  kind 
of  cotton  is  1.2  multiplied  by  the 
square  root  of  the  count.  For  ex- 
ample, the  count  or  hank  is  15.  The 
square  root  of  15  is  3.87,  which,  mul- 
tiplied by  12,  equals  4.64.  If  the  stand- 
ard for  twist  on  this  frame  was  94.9. 
the  twist  gear  used  would  be  20.  The 
method  by  which  this  is  found  is  by 
divldins:  the  constant  v'or  twist  by  the 
standard  for  twist  (American  frames). 
Look  out  for  the  leather  top  rolls, 
traverse  and  clearers  to  see  that  each 


176 


A     COTTON     FABRICS     GLOSSARY. 


is  performiag  its  duty  properly.       Of 
course    the 

SPEED  OF  THE  ROLLS 
is  very  important,  the  general  method 
being  to  gain  1-16  of  an  inch  over 
stock  at  each  roll.  The  production 
should  be  about  33  hank  per  spindle 
per  week  of  60  hours.  The  15-hank 
roving  is  taken  to  the  ring  spinning 
room  and  made  into  60s  warp  yarn  on  a 
frame  having  a  gauge  of  2%  inches; 
ring  diameter  of  IVz  inches,  and  length 
of  traverse,6  inches;  with  spindle  speed 
of  10,000  revolutions  per  minute.  The 
yarn  is  then  put  through  a  spooler  and 
warper  and  then  a  slasher.  The  filling 
yarn  is  made  from  the  15-ha'ik  roving 
on  a  frame  having  a  li/4-inch  diameter 
ring,  5-inch  traverse  and  spindle 
speed  of  7,400  revolutions  per  min- 
ute. The  roving  for  the  filling  yarn 
may  be  taken  to  the  mule  room,  but  for 
this  class  of  goods  is  generally  taken 
to  the  ring  frame  spinning  room. 


Dyeing   and   Finishing   Particulars. 

PINK. 
One-half  per  cent  Erika    pink;     20 
per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal  soda. 
HELIOTROPE. 
One  per  cent  tetrazo    chlorine    lilac 
B;    20  per  cent  Glauber's;    2  per  cent 
sal  soda. 

NAVY  BLUE. 
Three  per  cent  tetrazo  blue  Rx;    25 
per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal  soda. 
GRAY. 
One-half  per  cent  thio  gray  B;  10  per 
cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal  soda. 
LIGHT  SLATE. 
One-half  per  cent  direct  black  S;  20 
per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal  soda. 
PEACOCK  BLUE. 
Two  per  cent  Eboli  blue  B;   20     per 
cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal  soda. 
RED. 
Three  per  cent  direct  red  B;   20  per 
cent  Glauber's;    2  per  cent  sal  soda. 
SLATE. 
Two   per  cent  katigen   black   S  W; 
2  per  cent  sodium  sulphide;     20     per 
cent  Glauber's;   2  per  cent  soda  ash. 
ROYAL  BLUE. 
Three  per  cent  brilliant  benzo  blue 
6  B;   1/4  per  cent  benzo  fast  violet  R; 
25  per  cent  Glauber's;   2  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

TAN  BROWN. 
Three  per  cent  benzo  fast  orange  S; 
2  per  cent  chrysophenine;   ^/^  per  cent 
benzo  fast  black;   30  per     cent    Glfi- 
ber's;  2  per  cent  sal  soda. 


SKY  BLUE. 

One  and  three-quarters  per  ce:t  dia- 
mine sky  blue  F  F;   25  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's; 2  per  cent  sal  soda. 
BROWN. 

Three  per  cent  diamine  brown  B;  30 
per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal  soda. 
WINE. 

Three  per  cent  diamine  Bordeaux  B; 
30  per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

SCARLET. 

Two  and  one-half  per  cent  diamine 
scarlet  B;  25  per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per 
cent  sal  soda. 

Satines  are  finished  by  passing 
through  a  calender  machine  to  give  a 
fine  lustre  finish  and  are  sometimes 
placed  on  a  beetle  machine  and  beetled 
for  two  hours.  They  are  starched 
first  with  a  very  light  sitarch,  and  a  lit- 
tle white  soluble  softening,  to  give  a 
soft,  soiiooth  feel. 


MUSLIN-BUTCHER'S  MUSLIN. 

Muslin  is  commercially  understood 
to  mean  a  soft  cotton  fabric,  used  for 
various  purposes,  but  principally  for 
dress  goods,  underwear,  sheetings,  etc. 
Some  muslins  are  named  from  their 
place  of  production,  as  Asoreem,  Dac- 
ca, India,  Madras  and  Swiss  muslin, 
while  some  are  named  from  the  use 
to  which  they  are  chiefly  put,  as 
butcher's  muslin,  which  derives  its 
name  from  the  fact  that  it  is  chiefly 
used  by  grocery  men  and  butchers  in 
the  form  of  aprons  and  coverings.  It 
is  a  strong  bleached  fabric,  well  suited 
for  the  purposes.  Muslin  is  so  called 
from  Mosul,  a  city  on  the  banks  of  the 
Tigris,  where  was  once  the  chief  seat 
of  its  manufacture,  but  to-day  large 
quantities  are  manufactured  in  the 
United  States. 

The  quality  of  muslin  is  as  varied 
as  are  the  names  by  which  it  is  known. 
Butcher's  muslin  is  but  a  substitute  for 
butcher's  linen.  Cotton  is  cheaper  and 
almost  as  durable,  ana  because  of  this 
it  has  forced  itself  to  the  front.  Butch- 
er's muslin  is  easily  distinguished 
from  the  others  by  its  coarseness. 
However,  considerable  quantities  are 
used  for  summer  outing  dresses,  for 
which  purposes  the  bleached  fabric 
only  is  used.  The  unbleached  is  used 
principally  for  sheetings  and  some- 
times for  pillow-cases.  The  un- 
bleached fabric  is  preferred  where  du- 


^:Mi^m,  /*^^' 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


177 


xability  is  the  chief  object.  It  i.s  a 
common  fact  that  unbleached  fabrics 
will  wear  better  than  bleached. 

Muslin  is  used  only  i:i  the  bleached 
or  unbleached  state.  The  fabric  is 
not  dyed. 

As  previously  mentioned,  there  are 
various  kinds  of  muslin;  in  fact,  any- 
thing in  the  line  of  soft  cotton  fabrics 
may  be  termed  muslin.  The  name  by 
which  a  particular  kind  is  commonly 
known  may  vary  likewise  in  quality, 
as,  for  example,  there  are  several 
qualities  of  butcher's  muslin,  as  an 
analysis  would  prove. 

Analysis  of  a  fair  grade  of  butcher's 
muslin,  which  retails  at  15  cents  per 
yard:  Width  in  reed,  0IV2  inches;  fin- 
ished width,  36  inches;  ends  in  warp, 
1,900:  1.84-1  in  body;  28  ends  each 
feide  equal  56,  selvedge;  total,  1,900;  900 
X  2  reed;  52  ends  per  inch  fin- 
ished; warp,  l-12s  cotton;  take-up 
during  weaving,  8  per  cent;  filling,  40 
picks  per  inch  in  loom:  42  picks  per 
inch  finished;  l-15s  cotton;  weight  per 
yard  in  the  gray,  5  ounces. 

LOOM   REQUIRED. 

Muslin  is  a  plain  woven  fabric;  con- 
sequently any  loom  may  be  used  in 
the  weaving  of  these  goods.  The  cost 
of  production  is  of  course  reduced  in 
proportion  to  the  speed  of  the  loom  and 
the  number  of  looms  a  weaver  can 
take  care  of.  The  least  expense  would 
be  incurred  by  using  a  Northrop  loom. 

THE  WARP 

should  be  sized  so  as  to  withstand  the 
chafing  during  weaving.  As  a  rule 
all  single  yarns  are  sized  before  they 
are  beamed.  The  warp  is  drawn  in  on 
eight  harnesses,  straight  drafting. 
Fig.   1   shows   design. 

DBoaaaaa 
upmamuua 
auauamam 

■aiGBDBD 

amamamam 
mamnmama 
amauamuu 
uamumamzi 

Fig-.    1. 

FINISHING. 

The  unbleached  receives  little  or  no 
finishing.  After  it  comes  from  the 
loom,  it  is  simply  boiled  off,  dried, 
made  up  into  rolls  and  then  shipped. 

When  the  fabric  is  to  be  bleached, 
it  is  first  boiled  off,  then  subjected  to 
the  bleaching  chemicals,  after  which 
it  is  sometimes  subjected  to  a  very 
light  sizing,  composed  of  corn,  or 
wheat,  glycerine,  bees'  or  Japan  wax, 
after  which  it  is  run  through  a  rotary 
press,  then  made  up  into  rolls,  and 
shipped. 


Carding  and   Spinning   Particulars. 

The  yarns  of  which  Dutcher's  mus- 
lin is  made  are  of  a  low  count  and  are 
made  in  mills  of  the  first  division. 
The  grade  of  cloth  is  sometimes  made 
up  of  raw  stock  and  a  certain  percent- 
age of  waste.  The  raw  stock  used 
very  rarely  exceeds  %  inch  in  staple 
and  is  of  a  low-grade  American  cotton. 
While  the  same  care  is  not  taken  of 
this  class  cotton  at  the  different  proc- 
esses for  this  cloth,  still  care  should 
be  take  1  to  see  that  each  machine  is 
working  properly  to  its  best  advan- 
tage for  production.  In  this  class  of 
goods  production  is 

THE  FIRST  CONSIDERATION 
and  quality  the  second.  This  does  not 
mean  that  quality  should  be  sacrificed 
wholly  for  production,  but  thau  the 
machines  should  be  driven  to 
a  greater  extent  and  the  best 
possible  work  turned  off  of  them 
under  these  conditions.  For  ex- 
ample, at  the  card  the  top  flats 
should  not  be  set  or  driven  at  ine 
same  speed  as  when  finer  goods  are 
made,  and  so  it  is  with  all  the  ma- 
chines. The  cotton  mixings  should 
always  be  as  large  as  possible  and 
should  be  allowed  to  stand  as  long  as 
possible  before  being  used.  This  gives 
the  cotton  a  chance  to  dry  out.  A  bet- 
ter plan  (if  there  is  room  enough) 
is  to  have  two  large  mixings  and  use 
the  cotton  from  one  while  the  other  is 
drying  out.  If  cotton  is  very  damp, 
the  heat  should  be  turned  on  to  help 
dry  it  out.  This  is  generally  done  at 
night  or  over  Saturday  and  Sunday. 
It  is  at  this  point  that  the  good  waste 
from  all  the  machines  is  mixed  in, 
care  being  taken  to  see  that  the  waste 
is  spread  as  evenly  as  possible  over 
the  mixing.  As  the  cotton  is  gener- 
ally quite  dirty,  it  is  put  through  an 
opener  and  three  processes  of  picking. 
The  hopper  of  the  opener  should  al- 
waj^s  be  kept  full  of  cotton.  The  open- 
er is  connected  directly  with  the 
breaker  picker  and  this  machine  is 
provided  with  either  a  two  or  three 
bladed  rigid  beater.  If  of  a  two-blade 
type 

THE    SPEED 

should  be  about  1,550  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  total  weight  of  the  lap 
at  the  front  should  be  about  40  pounds, 
or  a  16-ounce  lap.  These  laps  are 
put  up  and  doubled  four  into  one 
at  the  intermediate  picker.  This 
beater  is  generally  of  a  two  or  thret 
bladed  rigid  type  and  if  the  former  its 
speed  is  1.500  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  lans  at  the  front  of  this  machine 
weigh  38  pounds   total   weight  and  10 


¥ 


178 


A   COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY. 


ounces  per  yard.  The  laps  are  put  up 
at  the  finisher  picker  and  doubled  four 
into  one.  This  machine  is  generally 
provided  with  a  two-bladed  rigid  type 
of  beater  having  a  speed  of  about  1,- 
500  revolutions  per  minute.  The  laps 
at  the  head  end  weigh  40  pounds  or 
14%  ounces  to  a  yard.  An  allowance 
of  10  ounces  either  side  of  standard  is 
made  with  this  staple  cotton.  If  the 
lap  varies  more  than  this,  it  should  be 
run  oyer  again.  These  laps  are  put 
up  at 

THE  CARD. 
This  should  be  set  coarse  and  have  No. 
100  wire  fillet  on  cylinder  and  top 
flat,  the  doffer  fillet  being  No.  110. 
The  draft  of  card  should  not  exceed 
100.  Strip  cards  at  least  three  times 
a  day.  The  cards  on  this  stock  need 
more  stripping  than  when  long-stapled 
stock  is  used,  because  of  the  greater 
bulk  passing  throug'h  and  also  on  ac- 
count of  the  short  staple,  which  fills 
up  the  wire.  The  card  sliver  weighs 
65  grains  per  yard  and  the  production 
should  be  about  1,000  pounds  per 
week  of  60  hours.  This  is  put  through 
two  processes  of  drawing  frames.  It 
is  of  great  advantage  to  use  metal- 
lic rolls  on  this  class  of  goods.  The 
speed  of  front  rolls  is  400  revolutions 
per  minute.  Keep  rolls  free  from  dirt 
and  fly.  The  sliver  is  put  through  the 
slubber  and  made  into  .40  hank  roving. 
This  is  put  through  two  processes  of 
fly  frames,  having  the  following  hank 
roving:  3.30  at  the  first  and  3.25  hank 
at  second.  The  roving  ic  then  taken 
to  the  spinning  room  and  made  intp 
15s  on  the  filling  frame  and  12s  on  the 
warp  frame.  Use  a  warp  frame  with 
3-inch  gauge,  2i'^-inch  ring  and  7-inch 
traverse,  with  a  16.45  twist  per  inch 
and  spindles  revolving  at  9,000  revolu- 
tions per  minute.  This  yarn  is  then 
spooled  and  wound  on  a  warper. 
Enough  beams  are  put  up  at  the  back 
of  the  slasher  to  give  a  beam  with  the 
required  number  of  ends  m  front.  To 
make  15s  filling  yarn,  use  a  frame 
having  2%-inch  gauge,  li/^-inch  diam- 
eter ring,  61/i-inch  traverse,  12.59  twist 
per  inch  and  spindle  speed  of  6,900 
revolutions  per  minute. 


HENRIETTA  CLOTH, 

Henrietta  cloth  is  a  light-weight 
fabric  for  women's  wear,  made  in  all 
colors  from  single  worsted  yarn,  with 
silk  mixture  in  the  best  qualities. 

The  cheaper  qualities  are  made  with 
cotton   and  worsted,  the  cotton     yam 


being  for  the  warp,  while  the  worsted 
is  used  for  filling.  Henriettas  are 
made  in  various  qualities;  for  exam- 
ple, the  "all  worsted"  from  various 
grades  of  fine  worsted  yarn;  the 
worsted  and  silk  mixture  from  various 
grades  of  each;  the  "cotton  and  worst- 
ed" made  up  in  various  qualities  of 
cotton  and  worsted  yarn. 

When  the  fabric  is  made  with  differ- 
ent qualities  of  yarn,  that  is,  the  warp 
differing  from  the  filling  in  quality  or 
kind,  the  cheaper  quality  or  kind  is  in 
all  instances  used  for  warp.  The  rea- 
son for  this  is  readily  understood, 
when  the  character  of  the  wea-ve  is 
taken  into  consideration.  The  weave 
for  this  fabric  is  a  one  up,  two  down 
twill,  the  weave  repeating  on  three 
ends  and  three  picks.       Fig.  1     shows. 

namanmnam 

maam  jDbgq 
uamaamaam 
amoomaama 
maanaamao 
inmaamaam 
Dmnnmaama 
maamaamaa 
Fig.  1. 

DDDncDDaa 
nnGaDLBDD 
noDDnBDnD 
aaaaBDDna 
nnamDDoaa 

DDBDnDDDD 

DBnnnDDGD 

■naaDDDCD 

Fig.  2. 

nine  repeats  of  the  weave;  Fig. 
2,  drawing-in  draft.  This  weave 
will  show  but  one-third  of  the  warp 
on  the  face  of  the  fabric  and  two- 
thirds  of  the  filling;  the  filling  is 
usually  of  a  slightly  coarser  count 
than  the  warp,  especially  when  cotton 
warp  is  used,  consequently  the  filling, 
to  a  certain  extent,  covers  the  warp 
yarn.      The   two     factors,   the  weave, 

viz.,  — 5  twill  and  the  coarser 
count  of  filling,  give  to  the  face  of 
the  fabric  a  much  finer  feel  than  the 
back.  The  feel  or  handle  of  lienri- 
ettas  is  very  important,  consequently 
the  above-mentioned  particulars 
should  be  kept  in  view  when  construct- 
ing a  fabric  of  this  character,  as  its 
commercial  value  is  largely  influenced 
by  the  feel  of  the  fabric. 

PIECE  DYED. 

The  cloth  is  dyed  after  it  is  woven. 
Considerable  quantities  of  cotton  and 
worsted  henriettas  are  bleached  or 
fi-^lshed  in  the  gray;  when  the  cotton 
and  worsted  fabric  is  to  be  dyed,  the 
cotton  yarn  is  prepared  so  as  to  take 
color  in  a  worsted  dye.  otherwise  two 
dyeing  processes  would  be  necessary — 
one  for  the  cotton  yarn  and  one  for 
the  worsted.  The  one  dip  or  union 
dye  makes  the  cost     of  finishing     but 


A   COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY. 


179 


normal.  Preparing  the  cotton  yarn  for 
the  worsted  dye  is  accomplished     be- 
fore the  yarn  is  warped  or  beamed. 
ANALYSIS. 

Width  of  warp  in  reed,  38  inches. 

Width  of  fabric  finished,  35  inches. 

Ends  per  inch  in  reed,  70. 

Ends  per  inch  finished,  76. 

Reed,  35x2. 

Ends  in  warp  2620,  plus  40,  20  ends 
each  side  selvedge;  total  ends  in  warp, 
2,660. 

Warp  yarn,  l-oOs  cotton. 
FILLING. 

l-40s  worsted. 

64  picks  per  inch  in  loom. 

66  picks  per  inch  finished. 

Finished  weight  per  yard,  three 
ounces. 

WEAVING. 

Henriettas  are  usually  woven  on 
dobby  looms,  the  speed  of  which  is 
from  120  to  140  picks  per  minute;  it 
ib  essential  that  the  warp  is  well  sized, 
adding  about  15  per  cent  of  weight  to 
the  yarn;  wheat,  flour,  sago  or  potato 
starch  may  be  used;  in  connection 
with  this,  a  small  quantity  of  chloride 
of  magnesium  should  be  added  to  give 
the  yarn  the  necessary  moisture  and 
pliability. 

FINISHING. 

First  process:  After  the  fabric  is 
woven,  it  is  scoured,  then  bleached, 
dyed  or  left  in  the  gray  as  the  case 
may  be,  after  which  the  fabric  is  sub- 
jected to  a  very  light  singeing  in  order 
to  slightly  stiffen  the  cloth,  after 
which  it  is  pressed,  then  made  up  in- 
to rolls. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  yams  which  make  up  henrietta 
cloth  are  made  up  of  two  fibres,  worst- 
ed for  the  filling  and  cotton  for  the 
warp  yarn.  The  count  of  the  warp 
yam  is  1-50  and  this  count  of  yam 
would  be  made  up  in  mills  of  the  sec- 
ond division,  as  given  in  a  previous  ar- 
ticle. This  equipment  should  include 
combers,  as  this  yarn  in  most  grades 
of  the  cloth  under  description  is 
combed.  The  cotton  is  mixed  in  the 
usual  method,  which  has  been  de- 
scribed several  times.     It  is 

OF  GREAT  ADVANTAGE 
to  use  a  bale  breaker  for  this  class  of 
yams.  The  cotton  is  put  through 
three  processes  of  picking,  the  breaker 
picker  being  combined  with  an  open- 
er. The  breaker  picker  is  provided 
with  a  three-bladed  beater,  the  speed 
of  which  is  1,200  revolutions  per  min- 
ute.    The  lap  at  the  front   weighs  39 


pounds  Lo  the  lap  or  10  ounces  to  the 
yard.  These  are  doubled  4  into  1  at 
the  intermediate  picker.  .T^his  picker 
has  a  pin  beater,  the  speed  of  which 
is  1,300  revolutions  per  minute,  the 
fan  speed  being  reduced  on  account  of 
the  extra  draft  caused  by  the  pin  beat- 
er.    The  total 

WEIGHT  OF  LAP 
at  the  front  end  of  this  picker  is  37 
pounds  or  a  12-ounce  lap.  These  laps 
are  put  up  at  the  finisher  picker  and 
doubled  4  into  1.  At  this  point  the 
cut  roving  waste  is  also  mixed  in  in 
the  proportion  of  1  lap  cut  waste  to 
3  laps  raw  stock.  This  picker  is  gen- 
erally provided  with  a  two-bladed 
beater,  the  speed  of  which  is  1,400  rev- 
olutions per  minute.  Keep  the  beater 
blades  sharp  and  properly  adjusted. 
This  speed  of  the  beater  gives  the  cot- 
ton passing  through  the  picker  about 
40  beats  or  blows  to  the  inch.  The  to- 
tal weight  of  lap  at  front  is  35  pounds 
or  a  121/^-ounce  lap.  The  lap  for  this 
class  of  work  is  allowjed  half  a 
pound  variation  either  side  of  stand- 
ard weight;  if  more  than  this,  it 
should  be  run  over  again  because,  if 
put  up  at  the  card,  it  would  have  a 
tendency   to  make  uneven  work. 

AT   THE   CARD 

the  following  particulars  should  be 
observed:  Draft  of  card  not  less  than 
110:  wire  fillet  for  cylinder,  120s;  for 
doffer  and  top  flats,  130s.  Use  large 
doffeT.  Strip  three  times  a  day. 
Grind  all  fillet  once  a  month,  leaving 
grinding  rolls  on  all  day.  Grinding 
twice  a  month  is  better,  leaving 
grinding  rolls  on  half  a  day.  The 
speed  of  the  licker-in  is  300  revolu- 
tions per  minute;  flats,  1  revolution  in 
35  minutes.  The  weight  of  the  sliver 
at  the  front  should  be  about  50  grains 
per  yard;  production,  550  pounds  per 
week  of  60  hours.  This  sliver  is  tak- 
en to  sliver  lap  machines^  and  doubled 
14  intoJL  for  ss^-inch  lap  or  20  into  1 
for  10%-inch   lap.     The    •• 

SPREAD  OF  ROLLS, 
for  this  stock  (peeler  li/^inch  staple) 
should  be  as  follows:  Front  to  mid- 
dle, 1%  inches;  middle  to  back,  1% 
inches.  The  weight  per  yard  of  lap  at 
the  front  is  300  grains  for  8%-inch 
lap  or  350  grains  for  a  10%-inch  lap. 
These  laps  are  put  up  at  the  ribbon 
lap  machine  and  doubled  6  into  1.  The 
weight  per  yard  of  lap  at  the  front  Is 
265  grains  for  8%-inch  lap  or  315 
grains  for  lOi/^-inch  lap.  This  gives  a 
draft  of  about  7  for  this  machine. 
These  laps  are  put  up  at  the  comber 
and  doubled  either  6  or  8  into  1,  ac' 


J80 


A   COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


■carciing  lo  the  number  OL  Heads  on  tJie 
coujuer.  it  6  heads,  the  lays  should  be 
iuy2  inches  wide  and  set  as  follows: 
Cua-mon  plate  to  half  lap,  18  gauge; 
top  combs  to  segment,  20  gauge.  Feed 
at  oy2,  top  comb  set  to  29  degrees  an- 
Sle;  a  double  row  of  needles  is  used 
on  top  comb;  18  per  cent  waste 
should   be   taken  out. 

THE  SPEED 
should  be  100  nips  per  minute;  dra;ft 
about  40;  weight  of  sliver,  50  grams 
Ijer  yard.  The  speed  of  rolls  in  draw 
box  should  be  as  follows:  Front  to 
middle,  i%  inches;  middle  to 
back,        1%        Inches.  This        sliv- 

er is  put  up  at  the  drawing  frames 
and  doubled  6  into  1  and  put  through 
two  processes,  the  speed  of  front  roll 
at  each  process  being  380  revolutions 
per  minute,  the  spread  of  the  rolls  be- 
ing as  follows:  Front  to  second,  1% 
inches;  second  to  third,  1%  inches; 
third  to  back,  1%  inches.  Use  leather 
top  rolls  on  this  class  of  drawing  and 
keep  them  well  varnished  and  in  per- 
fect condition.  The  weight  of  sliver 
at  the  front  of  the  finisher  drawing  is 
65  grains  per  yard.  This  is  put  up  at 
the  slubber  and  made  into  .50  hank 
roving. 

AT  THE  SLUBBER 
the  front  rolls  for  this  class  of  goods 
are  sometimes  varnished,  but  this  is 
not  often  done,  they  being  varnished 
when  running  on  Sea  Island  stock. 
The  slubber  roving  is  put  through 
three  processes  of  fly  frames,  the 
hank  roving  at  each  process  being  as 
follows:  First  intermediate,  1.50; 
second  intermediate,  3.50,  and  jack, 
10  hank.  Look  out  for  the  traverse 
motion  and  do  not  lay  roving  too  close 
to  make  triangular  roving.  This  rov- 
ing is  then  spun  into  50s  yarn  on  a 
ring  spinning  warp  frame  with  a  2%- 
inch  gauge  of  frame,  li/^-inch  diameter 
ring  and  a  6-inch  traverse.  The 
speed  of  the  spindles  is  10,000  revolu- 
tions per  minute,  the  twist  per  inch, 
31.81.  This  yarn  is  next  put  through 
a  spooler,  then  a  warper  and  from 
here  to  a  slasher.  A  good-sized  mix- 
ture for  this  class  of  goods  is  as  fol- 
lows: Water,  100  gallons;  potato 
starch,  54  poimds;  Yorkshire  gum,  2 
pounds;   white  soap,  li/^  pounds. 


water  to  120  degrees  F.  Rim  the 
goods  for  20  minutes;  heat  to  200  de- 
grees F.  Run  for  30  minutes.  If  wool 
is  not  dark  enough,  boil  for  some  min- 
utes more;  when  wool  is  only  a  shade 
too  light,  turn  off  steam  and  run  for 
oO  minutes  or  till  the  cotton  is  col- 
ored to  shade.  If  the  goods  are  boiled 
too  long  the  wool  will  be  too  dark  and 
the  cotton  thin. 

UNION   BLACK. 
5  per  cent  union  black  B  F;   25  per 
cent  Glauber's  salt;  5  per  cent  salt. 


Dyeing   Particulars. 

This  cloth  is  dyed  with  union  colors, 
the  wool  and  cotton  being  dyed  in  the 
same  bath.  The  goods  are  entered 
into  the  dye  kettle;  after  the  color  has 
been  boiled  up  with  from  20  to  30  per 
cent   of  Glauber's   salt,   cool   off  with 


LIGHT  BROWN. 
iy2  per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow  B; 
yo  per  cent  diamine  orange  B;  %  per 
cent  diamine  brown  M;  6  ounces  un- 
ion black  B  F;  30  per  cent  Glauber's; 
2  per  cent  salt. 

NAVY  BLUE. 
3  per  cent  diamine  black  B  H;  1  per 
cent     union  black    B  F;    4  per     cent 
naphthoi  blue  black;    %  per  cent  for- 
myl  violet  S  4  B;    30   per  cent  Glau- 
ber's;  5  per  cent  salt. 
RED. 
5   per   cent  benzo  fast  red   S  4  B; 
30  per  cent  Glauber's;  5  per  cent  salt. 
LIGHT  TAN. 
100   pounds  goods:      1   ounce   tetra^ 
zo  orange  G;    %   ounce  union  tetrazo 
black  B;  i/4   ounce  tetrazo  Bordeaux  G; 
%  ounce  tetrazo  brown  R;  20  per  cent 
Glauber's   salt. 

SLATE. 

1  per  cent  diamine  black  BH;  ^4  per 
cent  diamine  fast  yellow  B;  20  per 
cent  Glauber's. 

PURPLE. 

2  per  cent  diamine  violet  N;  %  per 
cent  union  black;  1  per  cent  formyl 
violet  S  4  B;  30  per  cent  Glauber's. 

SCARLET. 

3  per  cent  diamine  scarlet  B;  30  per 
cent  Glauber's  salt;  .5  per  cent  salt. 

PEA   GREEN. 
Yz   per     cent  diamme     green   B;    1 
ounce  diamine  sky  blue;   30  per  cent 
Glauber's. 

ROYAL  BLUE. 
3%   per  cent  diamine  brilliant  blue 
G;   Yz  per  cent  diamine  violet  S  4  B; 
30  per  cent  Glauber's;  5  per  cent  salt. 
DARK  GREEN. 
2Y2  per  cent  diamine  black  H  W;  2 
per  cent  diamine  green  B;  30  per  ceat 
Glauber's;    5   per  cent  salt. 
RUBY. 
3  per    cent  diamine     fast  red  F;   1^ 
per  cent  diamine  Bordeaux  B;  30  per 
cent  Glauber's;    5  per  cent  salt. 


j^rj^M^.*-^^^^*^' 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


181 


CAMBRIC. 


Ootton  cambric  is  a  fabric  woven 
with  a  plain  weave,  the  distinguishing 
effect  being  a  heavily  glazed,  smooth 
surface.  The  glossy  effect  is  obtained 
in  the  finishing  process.  The  goods 
are  somewhat  lighter  in  weight  than 
French  percale. 

When  finished  white  or  in  solid  col- 
ors they  are  used  very  extensively 

FOR  LINING  PURPOSES. 
The  name  cambric,  like  many  other 
names  of  dry  goods,  does  not  signify 
any  special  construction  or  quality  of 
fabric,  being  made  in  both  linen  aud 
cotton   materials. 

The  name  is  said  to  have  been  origi- 
nally given  to  a  very  fine,  thin  linen 
fabric  made  at  Chambrey,  or  Cam- 
brai,  in  the  department  of  Nord, 
French   Flanders. 

Cambric  is  known  in  France  as  ba- 
tiste, so  called,  it  is  said,  from  its  in- 
ventor, a  linen  weaver  named  Baptiste, 
of  Chan^brey.  One  authority  states 
that  French  canibric  is  the  finest  linen 
fabric  made. 

"  Cotton  imitations  of  the  original 
cambric  are  of  the  muslin  type  and  are 
sometimes    termed    cambric-muslin. 

The  finer  grades  of  cotton  cambrics 
are  made  from    hard     twisted    cotton 
yarns,  and  are  of  good  quality. 
LOOM   REQUIRED. 

Any  of  the  light,  single-box,  fast- 
running  looms  are  suitable  for  weav- 
ing cambrics,  the  goods  being  woven 
white,  then  bleached  or  piece-dyed  as 
required. 

The  finest  grades,  where  mispicks 
tend  to  make  second  quality  goods, 
are  woven  on  the  regular  looms.  De- 
vices have  been  invented  and  tested 
which  change  the  filling  before  it  is 
entirely  spent,  but  they  have  not  been 
successful  on  fine  filling  because,  com- 
ing in  contact  with  the  filling  every 
second  pick,  in  practically  the  same 
spot,  they  wear  it  out  before  it  can  be 
run  off  the  shuttle. 

Little  attention  is  paid  to  mispicks 

when   weaving  the  lower  qualities  of 

goods,  and    these    can  be  made    most 

economically  on  the  automatic  looms. 

ANALYSIS. 

An  analysis  of  a  black  cambric  of 
only  fair  quality  shows  the  following 
data:  Finished  width,  36  inches;  fin- 
ished weight,  4  yards  per  pound;  ends 
per  inch,  finished,  70;  picks  per  inch, 
finished,  54. 

The  average  number  of  the  yams  in 
the  finished  sample  is  24,  but    on  ac- 


count of  the  starch,  clay,  or  other  fill- 
ing substance  used  in  the  finishing 
process,  the  gray  yarns  would  be  finer 
than  24. 

To  obtain  the  fabric  just  mentioned, 
the  following  might  be  adopted,  both 
as    to    construction   and    finish: 

Width  of  warp  in  reed,  38%  inches. 

Warp   yarns,   26s   cotton. 

Pilling  yarns,  28s  cotton. 

Eight  double  ends  on  each  side  for 
s/elvedges. 

Total   ends.   2,536. 

Seventy  sley  reed,  2  ends  per  dent. 

Fifty-six  picks  per  inch. 

Weight,  4.3  yards  per  pound  from 
loom. 

The  finished  and  unfinished  weights 
do  not  bear  a  direct  proportion  to  the 
average  counts  of  yarns  in  each  case 
on  account  of  the  increase  in  length  of 
the  cloth  during  the  proc'ess  of  finish- 
ing. 

FINISHING. 

After  dyeing,  open  the  goods  out  to 
the  full  width  and  run  through  a  man- 
gle containing  the  filling  substance; 
then  dry. 

After  drying,  dampen  in  a  damping 
machine  and  run  through  a  calender. 

For  a  fine  white  cambric  the  goods 
would  be  bleached,  opened  out  to  the 
full  width,  run  through  a  starch  man^ 
gle,  containing  a  light  starch  or  fill- 
ing substance,  the  starch  being  blued 
to  give  the  shade  required,  dried, 
dampened  and  run  through  a  5-bowl 
calender  twice,  the  same  side  of  the 
cloth  being  presented  to  the  surface  of 
the  brass  or  steel  roll  each  time. 


Carding  and  Spinning   Particulars. 

The  yarns  of  which  cambric  is  made 
are  spun  in  mills  having  the  equip- 
ment of  the  first  and  second  division 
of  mills  as  given  in  a  previous  article. 
Cambric  is  made  ia  mills  or  sets  of 
mills  where  only  this  grade  of  cloth 
or  perhaps  two  or  three  other  styles 
of  cloth  of  the  same  grade  of  fabric  axe 
made  and  after  the  proper  gears  hank 
roving  are  once  found  they  are  never 
changed.  In  fact,  a  machine  or  set  of 
machines  may  run  on  this  grade  of 
goods  its  whole  lifetime,  the  only 
changes  made  being  in  case  of  a  break- 
down, or  parts  and  gears  becoming 
worn  out.  Cambric  is  made  from 
American  cotton,  the  length  of  the 
staple  used  being  from  %  to  1^/4  inches. 
For  this  article  we  will  coasider  the 
staple  to  be  1%  linches  in  length  and 
the  count  of  the  yarn  to  be  as  follows: 
26s  for  warp  and   28s  for  filling. 

THE   MIXING 
is    generally    done    by    hand,   and    the 


182 


A   COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY. 


mixings  are  always  as  large  as  possi- 
ble. In  some  mills  two  large  mixings 
are  made  so  that  one  can  be  drying 
out  while  the  other  is  being  used. 
Better  results  are  obtained  by  the  latter 
method.  The  good  sliver  waste  from 
machines  up  to  the  slubber,  as  well 
as  the  cut  roving,  is  mixed  in  at  the 
mixing  bin.  The  cotton  is  then  put 
through  an  opener  and  either  two  or 
three  processes  of  picking,  three 
processes  being  the  general  method. 
The  opener  is  either  directly  connected 
with  the  breaker  picker  or  is  connect- 
ed by  trunking;  if  by  trunking,  keep 
it  clear,  so  as  not  to  cause  fire.     The 

SPEED  OP  THE  BEATER, 
which  is  of  either  a  two  or  three 
bladed  rigid  type,  is  1,500  revolutions 
per  minute  for  the  two-bladed,  or  1,000 
revolutions  per  minute  for  the  three- 
bladed  type.  The  total  weight  of  the 
lap  at  the  front  of  breaker  picker  is 
40  pounds  or  a  16-ounce  lap.  These 
are  doubled  four  into  one  at  the  in- 
termediate picker.  The  speed  of  this 
beater,  which  is  generally  of  a  rigid, 
two-bladed  type,  is  1,450  revolutions 
per  minute,  the  total  weight  of  lap  at 
the  front  being  38  pounds  or  a  12-ounce 
lap.  These  laps  are  put  up  at  the  fin- 
isher picker  and  doubled  four  into  one. 
This  picker  is  equipped  with  a  two- 
bladed  rigid  style  of  beater,  and  makes 
1.450  revolutions  per  minute,  which 
gives  the  cotton  passing  through 
about  42  blows  or  beats  per  inch,  the 
total  weight  of  lap  at  front  being  39 
pounds  or  a  1414 -ounce  lap.  Tlie  cot- 
ton is  next  put  up  at  the  card. 

THE  CARDS 
on  which  cambric  was  formerly  made 
are  to  some  extent  now  used  and  are 
known  as  the  top  flat  card.  These  are 
fast  going  out  of  date,  so  that  the 
particulars  given  below  refer  to  the  so- 
called  English  card.  The  draft  for 
this  card,  for  these  goods,  should  not 
exceed  90.  The  wire  fillet  used  should 
be  100s  for  cylinder  and  110s  for  dof- 
fer  and  top  flats.  The  speed  of  the 
cylinder  should  be  160  revolutions  per 
minute;  licker-in,  400  revolutions  per 
minute,  and  top  flats  should  make  one 
complete  revolution  in  50  minutes. 
Grind  once  a  month.  Strip  three  times 
a  day  and  if  running  an  extra  heavy 
production,  strip  once  more.  Set  top 
flats  to  cylinder  to  a  12-lOOOths  gauge 
and  doffer  to  cylinder  to  a  7-lOOOths 
gauge.  Use  large  doffer.  The 
WEIGHT  OF  SLIVER 
at  the  front  of  the  card  should  be 
65  grains  per  yard  and  the  production 
about  750  pounds  for  a  week  of  60 
hours.       The   card   sliver  is   next  put 


tlirough  either  two  or  three  processes 
of  drawing,  generally      three.  The 

doublings  are  generally  six  into  one. 
The  speed  of  the  front  roll  is  400  rev- 
olutions per  minute.  On  this  class  of 
goods  some  overseers  prefer  the  me- 
tallic top  rolls.  In  calculating  the  pro- 
duction of  a  drawing  frame  with  me- 
tallic top  rolls,  it  is  the  general  rule 
to  allow  one-third  more  than  that  fig- 
ured for  leather  rolls.  It  is  found, 
however,  that  this  is  too  great,  and  if 
the  allowaace  is  cut  down  to  i/4  or  25 
per  cent,  it  will  be  found  about  right. 
Keep  metallic  rolls  clean  and  well 
oiled.       In  figuring 

DRAFT    OP   FRAME 

with  metallic  top  rolls,  add  7  per  cent 
when  draft  does  not  exceed  3.75,  and  & 
per  cent  when  draft  is  between  4.60  to 
7.  If  leather  top  rolls  are  used,  care 
should  be  taken  to  see  that  they  are 
properly  oiled  and  free  from  flutes; 
they  should  be  level,  without  breaks 
in  leather,  and  the  leather  cot  should 
be  tight  and  last  should  be  varnished 
frequently.  A  good  recipe  for  a 
cooked  varnish  is  given  below:  One 
quart  vinegar,  seven  ounces  glue,  two 
teaspoons  gum  tragacanth,  borax,  size 
of  walnut,  one  teaspoon  brown  sugar. 
Cook  about  an  hour.  Thicken  with 
lampblack  and  Princess  metallic.  One 
that  does  not  need  cooking  is  as  fol- 
lows: Three  ounces  glue,one  ounce  ace- 
tic acid,  one-half  teaspoon  brown  sugar, 
one-half  teaspoon  oil  origanum.  Dis- 
solve and  add  color;  add  one-half  tea- 
spoon of  borax  in  hot  weather.  The 
bottom  steel  rolls  should  be  set  as 
follows:  Front  roll  to  second,  1^/4 
inches;  second  to  third,  1%  inches; 
third  roll  to  back,  1%  inches.  The 
weight  of  sliver  at  the  front  of  the 
flnisher  drawing  should  be  70  grains 
per  yard.  This  is  put  through  the 
slubber  and  made  into  .40  hank  roving. 
The 

SLUBBER  ROVING 

is  put  through  two  processes  of  fly 
frames,  the  hank  roving  at  each  being 
as  follows:  First  intermediate,  1.75,and 
second  intermediate,  5;  the  setting  of 
the  bottom  steel  rolls  at  each  process 
being  1  3-16  inches  from  front  to  mid- 
dle and  1%  inches  from  middle  to  back. 
The  roving  is  taken  to  the  ring  spin- 
ning room  and  spun  into  26s  yarn  on  a 
warp  frame  having  the  following  par- 
ticulars: Gauge  of  frame.  2%  inches; 
diameter  of  ring,  1%  inches;  twist  per 
inch,  24.22;  length  of  traverse,  6%; 
revolutions  per  minute  of  spindles,  9,- 
200.  The  yarn  is  next  spooled  and 
then  warped,  after  which  it  is  put 
through  a  slasher.     On   this  class     of 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


183 


goods  a  heavy  sizing  is  used.  The 
roving  is  spun  into  2Ss  yarn  on  a  fill- 
ing irame  with  a  2%-inch  gauge  of 
frame;  1%-inch  diameter  ring;  6- 
inch  traverse;  17.20  twist  per  inch; 
revolutions  per  minute  of  spindle,  7,- 
300.  This  yarn  is  then  taken  to  the 
stream  chest  or  put  through  some  other 
process  which  prepares  it  for  weaving. 

Dyeing   Particulars. 

Cambrics  are  dyed  in  the  jig  ma- 
chine or  the  continuous  machine.  The 
fancy  colors  are  dyed  on  the  jig.  After 
dyeing,  the  pieces  are  starched  with  a 
light  starch  and  calendered  through  a 
heavy   calender. 

BLACKS. 
One  dip  salt  black,  6  per  cent  oxy- 
diamine  black  SAT;  30  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's;  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 

SULPHUR  BLACK. 
Ten  per  cent  immedial  black  N  N; 
10  per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  5  per  cent 
soda  ash;  20  per  cent  Glauber's. 

BOTTLE  GREEN. 
Ten  per  cent  thionol  dark  green.;   2 
per   cent   thionol   yellow;    15   per   cent 
sulphide  sodium;  3  per  cent  soda  ash; 
30  per  ce.it  common  salt. 
PEA  GREEN. 
Two  per  cent  immedial  green  B  B; 
2  per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  2  per  cent 
soda  ash;  20  per  cent  salt. 
NAVY  BLUE. 
Three  per  cent  direct  indigo  blue  B 
E   M;    15   per  cent  salt;    2^/^   per  cent 
frankhansine. 

DARK    SLATE. 
One  per  cent  Pluto  black  S  S;  40  per 
cent   Glauber's  salt;    2   per   cent  soda 
ash. 

BROWN. 
Three  per  cent  tetranil  brown  O;  30 
per   cent   Glauber's;    3   per   cent   soda 
ash. 

LIGHT   BROWN. 
One-half  per  cent  tetrazo  yellow  M; 
1  per  cent  tetranil  brown  O;  30  percent 
Glauber's;   3  per  cent  soda  ash. 
OLD   GOLD. 
Three  per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow 
B;   y2  per  cent  diamine  bronze  G;    30 
per  cent  Glauber's;   3  per     cent    soda 
ash. 

SLATE. 
Two  per  cent  diamine  black  B  H;  2 
ou.Tces  diamine  yellow  B;  30  per  cent 
Glauber's;  3  per  cent  soda  ash. 
MAROON. 
Ten  per  cent  immedial  maroon  B;  10 


per  cent  sulphide  soda;  5  per  cent  soda 
ash:    85  per  cent  salt. 

GREEN. 
Ten  per  cent  immedial  green  G  G;  10 
per  cent  sulphide  sodium;    3  per  cent 
soda  ash;  35  per  cent  salt. 
BLUE. 
Ten  per  cent  immedial  new  blue  G; 
20  per  cent  sulphide    sodium;     5     per 
cent  soda  ash;   40  per  cent  salt. 
ECRU. 
Three  per  cent  immedial  cutch  G;  4 
per  cent  sulphide  soda;  3  per  cent  soda 
a.sh;   20  per  cent  salt. 

SCARLET. 
Five  per  cent  diamine  scarlet  B;   30 
per  cent  salt. 

WINE. 
Four  per  cent  benzo  fast  scarlet  8 
B  S;  1  per  cent  benzo  fast  violet  R;  30 
per  cent  Glauber's;  3  per  cent  sal  soda. 
PINK. 
One-half  per  cent  Erika  pink;  20  per 
cent  Glauber's;   2  per  cent  sal  soda. 
SKY  BLUE. 
One  per  cent  diamine  sky  blue  F  P; 
25  per  cent  Glauber's;    2  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

HELIOTROPE. 
One  per  cent  diamine    violet  N;     30 
per  cent  Glauber's;  3  per  cent  soda. 


TIRE  FABRICS. 


Tire  fabrics  are,  as  the  name  implies, 
used  for  automobile,  bicycle  and  other 
vehicle   tires. 

They  are  not  actually  tires  them- 
selves, but  form  the  base  or  founda- 
tion of  some  kinds  of  composition  and 
pneumatic  rubber  tires. 

Like  other  terms  denoting  the  use 
to  which  the  fabric  is  to  be  subjected, 
as  quiltings,  bedspreads,  shirtings,  etc., 
the  term  tire  fabrics  covers  a  wide 
range  of  weights  and  qualities. 

The  stock  used  in  the  warps  for 
these  goods  is  of  good  quality.although 
the  si;:gle  yarns  used  are  not  of  very 
high  counts. 

The  weights  vary  considerably.rang- 
ing  from  about  three  to  20  ounces  per 
square  yard.  In  one  type  of  goods  this 
excessive  variation  is  due  almost  ex- 
clusively to  the  ply  warp  yarns,  which 
vary  from  2  to  12  ply,  from  single 
yarns  varying  from  about  8s  to  40s, 
according  to  the  weight  required.  Thia 


184 


A   COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY. 


type   of   tire   fabric   is   termed    thread 
fabric. 

ANALYSIS. 

The  analyses  of  two  tire  (thread) 
fabrics  of  widely  varying  weights  show 
the  following  data: 

Sample  No.  1.  Warp  ends  per  inch 
in  reed,,  16.  Reed,  16;  one  end  in  each 
dent. 

Warp  yarn,  11-ply  9s  cotton. 

Filling:  One  pick  per  inch  of  sin- 
gle 40s  cotton. 

Finished  weight  per  square  yard,  13.5 
ounces. 

The  weave  is  plain.  The  drawing  is 
in  straight  order. 

One  peculiarity  of  this  class  of  tire 
fabrics,  which  will  be  noticed  from  the 
preceding  data,  is  that  the  filling  is 
used  merely  to  keep  the  warp  yarns 
in  position,  not  being  needed  to  give 
strength  to  the  cloth. 

Sample  No.  2.  Warp  ends  per  inch  in 
reed,  68. 

Reed,  17;  4  ends  in  each  dent. 

Warp  yarn,  2-ply    24s  cotton. 

Filling:  One  pick  of  40s  filling  ev- 
ery three-quarters  of  an  inch. 

Finished  weight  per  square  yard,  3.9 
ounces. 

The  ends  in  Sample  No.  2  were 
drawn  2  as  1  through  each  heddle  eye, 
in  straight  order,  two  picks  complet- 
ing the  weave  as  in  an  ordinary  plain 
cloth. 

For  a  better  quality  of  fabric  with 
the  same  construction  the  yarns  would 
have  been  drawn  in  straight  order, 
reeded  two  ends     in     each     dent,     as 


Fig. 


shown  by  the  vertical  lines  in  Fig.  1, 
and  actuated  as  indicated  by  chain 
draft  Fig.  2. 


Fig.    2. 

By  this  arrangement  the  ends  work- 
ing together  would  have  been  split  or 
separated  with  the  reed  and  prevented 
from  rolling  over  each  other. 

If  woven  on  a  cam  loom  working 
four  harnesses,  the  drawing  in  and 
reeding  would  be  as  indicated  in  Fig. 


1 

Fig.    3. 

3,  and  the  lifting  of  the  harnesses  as 
indicated   in  Fig.  4. 


Fig.    4. 


Reed  ends  at  lines  in  Fig.  3,  two 
ends   in  each  dent. 

LOOM    REQUIRED. 

Tire  fabrics  may  be  woven  on  ordi- 
nary one-shuttle  cam  or  dobby  looms, 
there  being  but  one  warp  and  one  fill- 
ing, provided  provision  is  made  for  the 
proper  regulation  of  the  let-off  and 
take-up  motions. 

On  the  heavy  grades  of  goods,  it  is 
advisable  to  fold  the  woven  fabric  as 
it  is  made,  instead  of  running  it  on  a 
cloth  roller,  on  account  of  the  large 
yardage  produced  in  a  short  time. 

The  two  samples  analyzed  were  wov- 
en on  a  heavy  loom  running  about  90 
picks  per  minute. 


Carding  and  Spinning   Particulars. 

In  a  previous  article  the  >:otton  n:ills 
were  divided  into  three  divisions,  each 
division  having  a  different  equipment 
of  machinery.  The  yarns  that  make 
tire  fabrics  do  not  come  under  the 
head  of  any  of  these  divisions,but  may 
be  classed  among  those  having  a  spe- 
cial equipment.  This  is  on  account  of 
the  extra  length  of  staple  used, 
which  is  very  rarely  less  than  1% 
inches,  and  from  this  up  to  the  long- 
est staple  grown,  2i/i  inches.  The 
stock  is.  of  course.  Sea  Island.  It  will 
therefore  be  readily  understood  that 
the  machines  in  use  in  the  other  divi- 
sions of  mills,  having  drawings  rolls, 
such  as  drawing  frames,  slubbers,  fly 
frames,  etc.,  could  not  spread  the  bot- 
tom steel  rolls  the  required  distance, 
so  as  not  to  break  the  staple.  In  or- 
der to  do  this,  specially  constructed 
frames  have  to  be  obtained,  which  al- 
low   this   spread   of   rolls. 

ANOTHER  POINT 
is  that  the  one  main  object  sought  is 
strength  and  this  is  the  chief  reason 
why  long  staple  is  used,  the  counts  of 
yarn  being  extremely  low  for  the 
length  of  the  stock,  i.  e.,  2-24s  warp  and 
40s  filling,  so  that  the  additional  points 
that  should  be  looked  out  for,  besides 
those  that  will  be  given  below,  are  to 
see  that  the  top  clearers  cover  all  the 
top  rolls,  that  the  spread  of  the  rolls 
is  enough  so  that  the  staple  will  not 
be  broken,  and  that  the  traverse  mo- 
tion is  in  perfect  shape  and  working 
properly. 

As  it  is  strength  that  is  sought,  the 
cotton  is 

GENERALLY  COMBED 
to  get  all  short  staple  out,  but  some- 
times the  stock  is  only  carded.  When 
carded,  the  carding  should  be  ligbt  or, 
better  still,  double  carding  should  be 
used.  In  this  article  we    will    consider 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


185 


the  yarn  to  be  combed.  The  mixing 
should  be  done  by  hand,  the  cotton  be- 
ing first  stapled  to  see  that  it  is  up  to 
standard,  whica  lor  this  article  \vili  be 
considered  as  two  inches.  The  cotton, 
after  being  allowed  to  dry  out,  is  put 
through  an  opener  and  either  one  or 
two  processes  of  picking.generally  one. 
If  one  process  is  used,  the  lattice  Is 
marked  off  into  sections  of  one  yard 
each  and  an  equal  amount  of  cotton  put 
on  to  each  section  to  make  the  required 
weight  lap  in  front.  If  two  processes 
are  used,  the  opener  is  combined  with 
the  breaker  picker.  The  speed  of  the 
beater  of  the  breaker  picker  should  be 
about  850  revolutions  per  minute  for 
a  two-bladed  rigid  type.  The  total 
weight  of  the  lap  at  the  front  should 
be  32  pounds  oran8l^-ounce  lap.  These 
laps  are  doubled  four  into  one  at  the 
finisher  picker;  the  speed  of  this  beat- 
er should  be  800  revolutions  per  min- 
ute. The  total  weight  of  lap  at  the 
front  should  be  27  pounds  or  a  9-ounce 
lap.  A  variation  of  not  over  6  ounces 
either  side  of  standard  should  be  al- 
lowed. All  laps  outside  this  variation 
should  be  run  over.  The  picker  laps 
are  put  up 

AT  THE  CARD. 
On  tnis  class  of  work  the  draft  of  the 
card  should  not  be  less  than  140  and 
from  this  up  tO'  180.  The  wire  fillet 
used  should  be  No.  120s  forthecylinder 
and  No.  130s  for  the  doffer  and  top 
flats.  The  speed  of  the  cylinder  should 
be  IfiO  revolutions  per  minute,  licker- 
in  200  revolutions  per  minute,  and  top 
flats  should  make  one  complete  revolu- 
tion everj'  35  minutes.  Cards  should 
be  stripped  three  times  a  day,  al- 
though some  overseers  claim  that 
stripping  the  cylinder  twice  and  the 
doffer  three  times  a  day  is  plenty.  The 
cards  should  be  ground  once  a  month 
or  oftener  if  wire  is  dull.  For  this  class 
of  goods  keep  wire  fillet  as  sharp  as 
possible.  Use  close  settings,  except 
that  of  the  feed  plate  to  the  licker-in, 
which  should  be  set  so  as  not  to  break 
the  staple.  Pull  the  staple  at  the 
back  and  front  of  card  at  least  once  a 
day  to  see  that  the  length  of  staple  is 
the  same  in  both  places.  The  weight 
of  the  sliver  at  the  front  should  be 
from  35  to  45  grains  per  yard,  45 
grains  being  a  good  weight. 

THE  PRODFCTION 
should  be  about  300  pounds  per  week 
of  60  hours.  Keep  front  of  card  clean, 
so  that  the  short  fly,  etc.,  will  not  get 
into  the  good  carded  cotton.  The  cot- 
ton is  next  put  through  the  sliver  lap 
machine,  where  it  is  doubled  20  into  1 
for  a  10V2-inch  lap,  or  14  into  1  for  an 
8%-inch  lap.     We  will     consider    that 


the  lap  being  made  is  a  lOi/^-inch  lap 
used  on  an  eight-head  comber.  Set 
the  bottom  steel  rolls  as  follows: 
Front  roll  to  middle,  2^/4  inches;  mid- 
dle roll  to  back,  2%  inches.  In  comb- 
ing this  cotton  the  instructions  given 
in  a  previous  lesson  may  be  followed 
with  the  following  exceptions:  The 
weight  of  the  sliver  lap  per  yard  is  275 
grains;  at  the  ribbon  lap  260  grains 
per  yard.  The  cotton  lap  is  next  put 
through  the  comber.     The 

SPEED  OF  THE  COMBER 
for  this  stock  should  be  about  85  nips 
per  minute.  The  doublings  are  8  into 
1  (for  an  eight- head  comber).  The 
percentage  of  waste  taken  out  is  from 
25  to  30.  Use  close  settings,  18  from 
half  lap  to  segment  and  21  from  top 
comb  to  segment.  The  sliver  at  the 
cam  should  weigli  45  grains.  After 
the  comber  use  three  processes  of 
drawing,  the  spread  of  the  rolls  being 
as  follows:  2%  inches  from  front  to 
second;  2^^,  inches  from  second  to 
third  roll;  21/2  inches  from  third  to 
back  roll.  Look  to  the  top  leather  cov- 
ered rolls  to  see  that  they  are  in  per- 
fect shape  and  properly  varnished.  The 
weigfht  of  the  sliver  at  the  front  of  the 
finisher  drawing  should  he  GO  grain.s 
per  yard.  The  doublings  a.t  the  draw- 
ing should  be  6  into  1.  At  the  slubber 
this  drawing  should  be  made  into  .70 
hank  roving.    At  this  frame 

SEVERAL  CHANGES 
are  made,  which  are  as  follows:  The 
top  leather  rolls  are  varnished,  some- 
times all  three  sets,  and  sometimes 
only  the  front  rolls.  The  size  of  the 
front  leather  roll  is  sometimes  in- 
creased to  11/2  inches,  or  even  to  2 
inches  in  diameter.  This  is  to  help 
prevent  the  roving  "licking  up"; 
when  this  is  done,  top  clearers  simi- 
lar to  those  used  on  mules  are  used. 
The  slubber  roving  is  put  through 
two  processes  of  fly  frames  and  made 
into  the  following  hank  roving:  2.25 
at  the  first  intermediate  and  5  at  the 
second'  for  the  40s  cotton,  and  for  the 
24s  cotton  the  hank  roving  at  each 
frame  is  as  follows:  2.25  at  the  first 
and  8  at  the  second  intermediate. 

The  spread  of  the  rolls  should  be  as 
follows:  Front  to  middle,  2  inches; 
middle  to  back,  2%  inches.  It  should 
be  understood  that  when  giving  the 
spread  of  the  rolls,  the  distance  is 
from  centre  to  centre.  The  warp  yarn 
is  then  spun  into  24s  on  a  warp  frame 
having  a  2-inch  diameter  ring  and  a 
7-inch  traverse.  Some  overseers  give 
a  little  more  than  standard  twist  to 
this  yarn.  The  yarn  is  then  put 
through  the  spooler  and  from  here  to 


186 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


the  twister  where  it  is  made  into  2- 
ply  yarn.  Prom  here  it  is  put  through 
the  warper  and  the  slasher.  The  fill 
ing  yarns  may  be  either  mule  or  ring 
spun;  if  spun  on  a  ring  frame  for  40s 
yarn,  use  a  1%-inch  ring  and  5i/^-inch 
traverse.  This  yarn  is  then  conditioii- 
ed    when  it  is  ready  to  weave. 


PLAIN  and  PLAIDED  NAINSOOK 

Nainsook  is  a  light  cotton  fabric, 
utilized  for  numerous  purposes.such  as 
infants'  clothes,  women's  dress  goods, 
lingerie,half  curtains  for  dining  rooms, 
bathrooms  and  for  various  other  pur- 
poses. The  striped  or  plaided  nainsook 
is  used  for  the  same  purposes  as  the 
plain  fabric,  depending  upon  the 
tastes  of  the  consumer.  Where  the 
fabric  is  required  for  lingerie  and  in- 
fants' wear,  the  English  finished  fab- 
ric is  selected  because  of  its  softness. 
When  intended  for  curtains  or  dress 
fabrics  the  French  finished  fabric  is 
chosen;  the  latter  finish  consists  of 
slightly  sitiffendng  and  calendering  the 
fabric.  * 

The  name  nainsook  is  derived  from 
the  Hindoo  Nainsukh  and  was  orgi- 
nally  defined  as  a  stout  India  muslin, 
manufactured  in  India. 

The  fabric  as  manufactured  to-day 
/may  t)e  distinguished  from  fine  lawns, 
fine  grades  of  batiste  and  fine  cam- 
brics from  the  fact  that  it  has  not  as 
firm  construction,  or  as  much  body, 
and  the  finished  fabric  is  not  as 
smooth  nor  as  stiff,  bu:  inclines  to 
softness,  principally  because  it  has 
not  the  body  to  retain  the  finishing 
materials  used  in  finishing  the  fabric; 
consequently  it  must  needs  be  a 
cheaper  article  than  the  fabrics  above 
mentioned.  Nainsook,  like  most  cot- 
ton fabrics,  is  made  in  several  grades, 
the  different  grades  being  affected  by 
the  counts  of  yarns  used,  which  in  turn 
influence  the  ends  and  picks  per  inch 
in   the  construction. 

ANALYSIS. 

Width  of  warp  in  reed,  30^^  inches; 
width  of  fabric  finished,  28 4  inches; 
ends  per  inch  in  reed,  82,  reeded  2  in  1 
dent;  ends  per  inch  finished,  86,  ends 
in  body,  2,460,  plus  40  ends  selvedge, 
equals  2,500,  total  ends  in  warp;  take- 
up  during  weaving,  5  per  cent;  weight 
of  fabric,  11/2  ounces  per  yard;  warp 
yam,  l-50s  cotton:  filling  yarn,  l-64s 
cotton;   66  picks  per  inch  in  loom;   68 


picks  per  inch  finished.  Fig.  1,  de- 
sign; fig.  2,  chain  draft;  fig.  3,  draw- 
ing-in  draft. 

LOOM  REQUIRED. 

Nainsook,  like  various  other  one- 
filling  fabrics  of  the  character 
under  discussion,  may  be  woven  on 
any  light,  single  box,  high  speed 
loom. 

Plaided    nainsook    seerhs  to    imply 


QaBBaaDBoaDBDaDa 
aaaDBsanaDBDaDaa 
aaDaaaaaaaaBDaaa 
Ti:jaDa  anaa 


Dl 


■DaaauaDani 


aaaaaavjaDaGBcaa 
aaziiiaBZiaDauBGBDB 
BGaaaDSGaaaaaaan 
DaaaaaGaGaaQDaaa 
aaaGaaaGBDaDDGaa 
aaGaGaGGDDnBDDDn 
BnaaaGanDcacDDDa 

DaaBBBGa  GGpaCCGQ 
BBBGaaaGGCDCBCGG 
BBGajBGa ' MGDLBGB 
BGBBa  M  B     U     UGCG 

DaaaaBGB  b~b:.bcb 
BflBGa<iaGc^.aGCfc'G 

BHGaGBGE_c::BL  EZB 
BG9aaGB~^B"B:~ElEG 
GBHaaaGBGaCEGB^B 
BaaGBBBGBLBGBGCG 
aaGB laGGCBCCCCGB 
BGBaaaDDBGGaGGBG 
DBflBBaGGGGaaDGaD 

BBBGBBoaaaBGnGaa 
aaGBGaDBaDGGGBaa 
aaaaBDBaaDaDBGi.a 


Fig.  1. 


OBaBGBGBGB 
BaaGBGBGBG 
BBGBGGGBGB 
BGBaaGBGBG 
GBaBGBGBCB 
BBUGBGBDBD 
BBGBGBGBGB 
BGBBSGBGBG 

ooaBGacBGa 

BBBGGDBana 
BBGBGGGGGB 

BGBaaaGGBa 
aaaaaaGGGa 

BaaGBGDGGD 
BBGBGisrHaB 
BGBBBGBGBD 
DBBBGBGBGB 
BRBGBCBGBG 
BBGanBGBOB 
ZGBBBClBGBn 
GBMBGBGBGB 
BBBGBGBGBG 
BBCBOGGBGa 
BnBBGDBGGG 
GBBBGCGGGB 
BBBGGGGGBD 
BBGBGBGGaa 
BGBBBGGDaa 

Fig.  2. 


naaoanannaDBGaaa 

□DQGGaaaaCBGGGGG 

nGGGGGGGnaGGcanB 

DDDanaDGBGGGDGBG 
DDDGaQCBaGGGGBGG 

nGaanGBaaaaGBGGG 

DDGBaGDaGaaGaGGG 
DGBaaGGaDGGGGGGa 
DBGaGBGaCGGGGGGn 
■DDGGaDanGGDCGDa 

Fig.  3. 

the  use  of  more  than  one  filling,  the 
plaid,  however,  is  formed  by  the 
weave.  See  design  Fig.  1. 
FINISHING. 
This  fabric  is  given  either  wliat 
may  be  termed  an  English  or  a 
French  finish.  By  the  former  finish 
the  fabric,  after  it  comes  from  the 
loom,  is  boiled  off,  then  bleached,  af- 
ter which  it  is  softened  by  im- 
mersing in  a  light  solution  of 
glycerine,  or  cocoanut  oil,  and  flour  or 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


187 


farina,  after  which  it  is  dried  by  paiss- 
ing  over  heated  cylinders,  then  run 
through  a  rotary  press  with  very  light 
pressure.  In  the  French  finish, after  the 
fabric  is  bleached,  it  is  sitiffened  by 
immersing  in  a  solution  of  size,  com- 
posed of  the  following  ingredients: 
11  our,  wax  and  gelatine,  after  which 
the  fabric  is  dried,  then  slightly 
sprinkled  with  water,  then  run 
through  the  calender,  which  completes 
the  finishing  process. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

One  mill  making  the  above  style  of 
fabric  makes  its  warp  and  filling  yarn 
as  described  below.  This  mill  is  in- 
cluded in  the  second  division  as  given 
in  a  previous  article.  Its  equip- 
ment includes  both  combers  and  a 
bale  breaker.  The  stock  used  is  1^- 
inch  good  quality  Allen  seed  cotton. 
The  cotton  is  put  through  three 
processes  of  picking  and  an  opener. 
The  opener  is  connected  with  the 
breaker  picker.  This  picker  is  pro- 
vided with  a  two-bladed  rigid  type  of 
beater,  which  rotates  at  1,500  revodu- 
tions  per  minute.  The  weight  of  the 
lap  at  the  front  of  this  beater  is  40 
pounds  or  a  16-ounce  lap.  These  laps 
are  put  up  at  the  intermediate  picker 
and  doubled  4  into  1.  This  picker  is 
also  provided  with  a  two-bladed,  rigid 
beater,  \,ne  speed  of  which  is  1,450 
revolutions  per  minute.  The  total 
weight  of  the  lap  at  the'  front  of  this 
picker  is  88  pounds  or  a  12l^-ounce 
lap.  These  laps  are  put  up  at  the 
finisher  picker  and  doubled  4  into  1. 
It  is  at  this  point  that  the  cut  roving 
waste  is  mixed  in,  it  having  first  been 
put  through  a  roving  picker  and  a 
picker  to  form  it  into  a  lap. 

THESE  ROVING  LAPS 
ajre  mixed  in  with  the  raw  stock  in 
proportion  of  three  laps  raw  stock  to 
one  lap  cut  waste.  The  beater  used  on 
this  picker  is  a  two-bladed,  rigid  type 
and  its  speed  is  1,400  revolutions  per 
minute.  This  gives  the  cotton  passing 
through  the  picker  about  42  beats  or 
blows  per  inch.  The  total  weight  of 
the  lap  at  the  front  is  3G  pounds  or  a 
12%-ounce  lap.  The  laps  are  next  put 
up  at  the  card.  This  card  is  provided 
with  a  2 6 -inch  doffer.  The  speed  of 
the  licker-in  is  350  revolutions  per 
minute,  flats  one  revolution  every  43 
minutes.  The  draft  is  100.  Cards  are 
stripped  three  times  a  day,  ground 
twice  a  month,  and  the  wire  fillet  used 
is  No.  34s  for  the  cylinder  and  36s  for 
the  doffer  and  flats.  The  weight  of 
the  sliver  at  the  front  of  the  card  is 
.50    grains   and    the    production    is    600 


pounds  per  week  of  60  hours.  This 
mill  is  equipped  with  6-head,  8%-inch 
lap    combers. 

THE  SLIVER 

from  the  card  is  doubled  14  into  1  at 
the  sliver  lap  machine  and  the  weight 
of  the  lap  is  320  grains.  These  laps 
are  put  up  at  the  ribbon  lap  and  dou- 
bled 6  into  1,  the  weight  per  yard  at 
the  front  being  275  grains.  These  are 
put  up  at  the  comber  and  doubled  6 
into  1,  the  weight  of  the  lap  at  the 
can  being  40  grains  per  yard.  The 
speed  of  the  comber  is  90  nips  per 
minute  and  IS  per  cent  of  waste 
is  taken  out.  The  sliver  is  then  put 
through  two  processes  of  metallic 
top  roll  drawing  frames,  the  weight  of 
the  sliver  at  the  finisher  drawing  be- 
ing 70  grains  per  yard.  The  speed  of 
the  front  roll  is  375  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  drawing  is  then  put  up 
at  the  slubber  and  drawn  into  .55  hank 
roving.  This  is  then  put  through 
three  processes  of  fiy  frames  and  made 
into  the  following  hank  roving  at 
each  frame:  First  intermediate  1.50, 
second  4,  and  jack  frame  12  hank.  The 
bottom   steel   roll 

SETTINGS 
are  as  follows:  Front  to  second,  1% 
inches;  second  to  back,  1%  inches. 
The  front  top  rolls  of  the  slubber  are 
varnished.  The  roving  is  next  taken 
up  to  the  ring  spinning  room  and 
made  into  64s  for  filling  and  50s  for 
warp.  For  spinning  50s  warp  yarn 
use  a  frame  having  23/4-inch  gauge, 
li^-inch  diameter  ring,  6-inch  traverse, 
and  put  in  31.71  turns  or  twists  per 
inch.  The  spindle  speed  is  10,000  rev- 
olutions per  minute.  This  yarn  is  then 
put  through  a  spooler  and  a  warper 
and  then  a  slasher.  The  filling  frame 
to  spin  64s  should  have  a  2%-inch 
gauge,  1%-inch  diameter  ring,  5-inch 
traverse,  27  twists  per  inch  and  a  spin- 
dle speed  of  7,700  revolutions  per  min- 
ute. This  yarn  is  taken  to  the  condi- 
tioning room  and  then  it  is  ready  to 
be  woven. 


SPOT  and  STRIPES 


As    Produced    by      Means   of   an    Extra 
Warp. 

The  spot  or  stripe  may  be  effected 
by  the  weave  alone  or  by  means  of  ex- 
tra warp  and  filling.  The  latter  meth- 
od of  constructing  these  fabrics  will 
be  considered.  Fabrics  of  this  charac- 
ter are  made  in  a  variety  of  qualities 


188 


A   COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY. 


— from  an  "all  cotton"  to  a  very  fine 
woolen  or  worsted  fabric.  The  elabo- 
ration of  the  spot  or  stripe  is  largely 
influenced  by  the  material  used  in 
the  body  of  the  fabric.     The  rule  with 


few  exceptions  is,  the  finer  the  quali- 
ty of  the  material,  thvs  more  elaborate 
is  the  stripe  or  spot. 

THE   SPOT   PATTERN. 

The  spot  is  effected  by  floating  the 
extra  warp  or  filling  yarn  on  the  back 
of  the  goods  for  a  given  space,  then 
raising  the  extra  yarn  to  the  face  of 
the  fabric  for  a  given  number  of 
picks.  The  size  of  the  spot  depends 
on  the  number  of  picks  or  ends  which 
the  extra  yarn  floats  over,  which  may 
be  only  one,  two  or  more  picks  or 
ends.  This,  of  course,  is  the  simplest 
form  of   the  spot  pattern. 

The  simplicity  of  this  method  of 
construction  lends  itself  readily  to 
some  very  neat  effects,  in  small  spot  pat- 
terns; for  example,  by  using  different 
colored  yarns  for  the  spot,  arranged  in 
some  order,  on  a  ground  composed  of 
a  4x4  herringbone  weave,  with  ground 
color  scheme  as  follows:  4  ends  green, 
4  ends  black,  4  ends  brown,  4  ends 
black,   with   the   same   arrangement  in 


the  filling.  The  spot  yarn  may  be  com- 
posed of  several  colors,  as,  for  in- 
stance, red,  white  and  yellow. 

In  making  the  spot,  with  extra  warp 
yarn  only,  the  spot  yarn  is  usually  di- 
rectly under  the  lightest  ground  color 
and  forms  the  spot  at  the  junction  of 
light  ground  colors,  referring  to 
ground   color   scheme   given   above. 

The  spot  yarn  comes'  to  the  face 
of  the  fabric  where  green  crosses 
green  for  two  picks,then  floats  on  back 
until  the  alternate  crossing  of  green. 
This  form  of  spot  is  operated  on  but 
two  harnesses.  The  more  elaborate 
spot  is  formed  on  the  same  principle 
as  the  small  two-pick  spot,  just  men- 
tioned; the  elaboration  consists  of  the 
use  of  more  ends.  These  ends  are  wov- 
en in,  in  the  form  of  a  figure,  which 
requires  the  use  of  from  4  to  12  har- 
nesses and  more,  in  order  to  form  the 
spot.  These  large  spots  are  usually 
woven  on  a  plain  ground  weave.  The 
pattern  would  be  read:  1  end  of  ground. 
1  end  of  figure  or  extra  yarn.  The 
figure  could  be  removed  without  affect- 
ing the  ground  weave,  by  reason  of 
the  fact  that  the  spot  is  formed  en- 
tirely by  extra  yarn.  The  spots  are 
woven  in  the  cloth  in  some  order;  for 
instance,  they  may  be  based  on  any 
satin,  broken  twill,  or  plain  weave  or- 
der. 

Fig.  1  is  a  sample  of  spot  pattern 
formed  by  extra  warp  yarn. 

RAISED   STRIPE    PLAID. 

These  fabrics  are  much  in  use  as  a 
dress  fabric  for  children  and  are  made 
in  all  cotton,  worsted  and  cotton,  and 
all  worsted,  with  the  exception  of  the 
raised  stripe,  which  is  usually  mer- 
cerized cotton  or  silk. 


Fig.   2. 

The  raised  stripe  is  formed  by  the 
use  of  partially  extra  yarn  in  both 
warp  and  filling,  that  is  to  say,  if  a 
stripe  is  formed  with  12  ends,  these  12 
ends  would  be  reeded  so  as  to  take 
the  place  of  only  .8  ground  ends;  for 
example,  if  ground  is  reeded  2  in  1 
dent,  the  stripe  is  reeded  3  in  1  dent. 

If  we  use  for  ground  weave  — ^ 
twill,  the  i-aised  stripe  must  be  a 
weave  that  is  divisible  by  3 — the  num- 
ber of  ends  in  the  repeat  of  ground 
weave;  in  order  to  produce  perfect 
stitching,a  6-end  irregular  satin  would 
be  required. 

In   laying  out   the  pattern,  or  color 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


18» 


arrangement,  it  should  be  observed 
that  the  pattern  is  divisible  by 
6,  and  that  the  number  of  ends  be- 
tween the  raised  stripes  in  both  warp 
and  filling  is  divisible  by  6,  otherwise 


Top. 


198 


11 


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Fig.    3. 


imperfect  stitching  will  result  when 
using  a  —r,  twill  for  ground  weave. 
These  fabrics  are  made  ia  various 
widths;  the  cotton  goods  are  set  usual- 
ly at  38  inches  in  reed,  and  finish  at  36 
mches. 


1,000—2  reed; 
take-up. 


ANALYSIS, 
picks  54, 


WARP   AND   FILUNG   PATTERN. 

36  ends   bleach  cotton. 
4 — 6  ends   blue  cotton  mercerized 

6  ends   bleach. 
4 — 6  ends  blue. 

6  ends  bleach. 
4 — 6  ends  blue. 
30  ends  scarlet. 
12  ends  green,    start   12. 
4  ends  black. 
2  ends  bleach. 
4—6  ends  scarlet. 


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2  ends    bleach. 
4  ends   black. 
12  ends   green,    end   12. 
30  ends   scarlet. 
4 — 6  ends   blue. 

6  ends  bleach. 
4 — 6  ends   blue. 

6  ends  bleach. 
4 — 6  ends  blue. 

198 
14  ends  extra  yarn  for  stripe. 

184 

3  required  chain   draft. 

4  drawing-in  draft. 


190 


A   COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY. 


Einds   In   waxp.  Snds    In   pattern. 

708  bleach  64  2-40  cotton. 

660  Bcarlet  60  2-40  cotton. 

288  green  24  2-40  cotton. 

396  blue  36  2-40  mercerized  cotton. 
72  scarlet  6  2-40  mercerized  cotton. 

144  black  8  2-40  mercerized  cotton. 

2,268  198  ends   In   1  pattern. 

2,268  total  ends  in  warp. 

The  pattern  shows  that  we  have 
198  ends  and  picks  taking  up  the  space 
required  for  184,  or  14  ends  and  picks 
of  extra  yarn  in  each  pattern  require 
average  piclcs  per  inch  in  fabric:  54 
pick  wheel— 198  in  place  of  184;  184  : 
198  :    :  54  :  X  equals  58  picks. 

To  calculate  filling  material  re 
<iuired  for  10  yards  of  cloth: 


64  A 
60  B 
24  C 
36  D 
6  E 
8  F 

198 


38  Inches  in  reed. 
54  pick  wheel. 


2,052  divided  by  184  =  11.15  average  yards  of  yam 
of  colors  in  1  yd. 


111.50 
6.58  6%  added  for  waste. 


117.08 


64 


Weight 
of  each 

-^-——  color. 

7,493.12  yds.  of  color  A—  7.13  ozs. 
7,024.80  yds.  of  color  B—  6.66  ozs. 
2,809.92  yds.  of  color  C —  2.66  ozs. 
4,214.88  yds.  of  color  D—  4.01  ozs. 
702.48  yds.  of  color  E —  .70  ozs. 
936.64  yds.  of  color  F —    .90  ozs. 


22.06  ozs.   of  fllling  for  10 
yds.  of  cloth. 
2-40s  mercerized  fllling  =  16,800  yards  to  1  lb. 

LOOM   REQUIRED. 

These  fabrics  require  the  use  of  box 
looms;  a  4x1  or  6x1,  or  pick  and  pick 
loom,  that  is,  a  4x4  box  loom,  is  much 
used.  If  6  colors  are  in  the  warp  pat- 
tern, a  Gxl  box  dobby  loom  should  be 
used.  In  the  cheaper  grade  of  plaids  a 
6  color  warp  pattern  is  sometimes 
filled  with  only  4  colors;  this  necessi- 
tates that  one  filling  color  covers  two 
warp  colors.  A  little  discretion  along 
this  line  will  enable  the  manufactur- 
er to  use  a  4x1  box  loom  where  a  6x1 
should  be  used.  This,  however,  is  only 
practiced  in  the  cheaper  grade  of  fab- 
rics. 

FINISHING. 

These  fabrics,  if  made  with  worsted 
are  given  a  light  scouring,  then 
pressed.  In  the  large  spot  patterns 
the  extra  yarn  that  floats  on  the  back, 
when  not  forming  the  spot,  is  cut  off 
by  means  of  a  shearing  machine.  The 


cotton  fabrics  are  usually  given  a  dry 
finish — simply  rua  through  a  rotary 
press  with  slightly  heated  cylinders, 
and  slightly  steamed  before  passing 
over  the  cylinder  of  the  press — after 
which  they  are  made  up  into  small 
rolls,  then  shipped. 


Carding    and    Spinning    Particulars. 

The  mills  making  the  yarn  for  these 
fabrics  will  be  found  in  either  the 
first  or  second  division  of  mills,  as 
given  in  a  previous  article. 

The  yarns  of  which  this  class  of 
goods  is  made  vary  a  great  deal,  some 
of  the  finer  ones  being  combed.  For 
this  article  we  will  consider  the  warp 
and  filling  to  be  carded  2-40s  yarn 
made  from  a  1  5-16-inch  staple  peeler 
cotton  of  a  good  grade.  The  raw  stock 
is  mixed  by  hand,  although,  if  done 
by  a  bale  breaker,  it  is  better,  as  has 
been  before  stated;  especially  is  mis 
true  in  rainy  or  muggy  weather.  The 
mixings  should  be  as  large  as  possible 
and  the  hands  mixing  the  cotton 
should  break  the  bale  into  as  small 
parts  as  possible. 

IN  HAND  MIXING 
several  bales  should  be  opened  at 
once,  and  the  cotton  from  each  mixed 
together.  At  this  point  the  sliver 
waste  is  mixed  in  with  the  raw  stock. 
This  should  be  thoroughly  spread  over 
the  entire  mixing.  The  cotton  is  put 
through  an  opener  and  three  processes 
of  picking.  Always  keep  hopper  of 
opener  more  than  half  filled  with 
cotton,  so  as  to  obtain  as  even  a  feed 
as  possible. 

After  passing  through  the  opener 
the  cotton  is  fed  on  to  an  endless  lat- 
tice, which  carries  it  to  the  feed  rolls 
of  the  breaker  picker.  These  con- 
deise  the  cotton  and  present  it  to  the 
action  of  the  beater.  This  beater  is 
generally  the  two-bladed  rigid  type 
of  beater  and  its  speed  is  1,550  revolu- 
tions per  minute.     Look  at  the 

GRID  BARS 

to  see  that  they  are  properly  spread 
and  the  dirt  is  going  through  them 
and  not  being  drawn  into  the  cotton 
again  after  being  knocked  out  by  the 
beater.  Do  not  allow  the  dirt  to  col- 
lect under  picker,  especially  under  the 
grid  bars,  as  it  is  liable  to  be  drawn 
into  the  cleaned  cotton  by  the  draft. 
The  total  weight  of  lap  at  the  front  of 
the  breaker  is  40  pounds  or  a  16^- 
ounce  lap.  These  laps  are  put  up  at 
the  intermediate  picker  and  doubled  4 
into  1.  This  picker  is  also  generally 
provided  with  a  two-bladed  rigid  type 
of  beater,  whose  speed  is  1,500  revolu- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


191 


tions  per  minute.  The  total  weight 
of  the  lap  at  the  front  of  this  picker 
is  3S  pounds,  or  a  12i/^-ounce  lap. 
These  laps  are  put  up  at  the  finisher 
picker  a.id  doubled  4  into  1.  It  is  at 
this  point  that  the 

CUT  ROVING  WASTE  * 

is  mixed  in.  If  the  mill  contains  a 
cut  roving  waste  picker  the  propor- 
tion of  mixing  is  as  follows:  Three 
laps  raw  stock  to  one  lap  cut  roving. 
If,  however,  there  is  no  such  machine, 
the  two  centre  laps  are  taken  out  and 
the  cut  roving  spread  evenly  over  the 
surface  of  the  last  lap.  This  will,  of 
course,  bring  the  waste  between  two 
laps  of  raw  stock.  The  beater  of  this 
machine  is  a  rigid  two-bladed  beater 
and  makes  1,450  revolutions  per  min- 
ute, which  gives  the  cotton  passing 
through  the  machine  41^^  beats  per 
minute.  The  total  weight  of  this  lap 
at  the  front  is  SQVz  pounds  or  a  12- 
ounce  lap.  The  variation  allowed  for 
this  kind  of  work  is  one-half  pound 
either  side  of  standard.  Laps  weigh- 
ing over  or  under  this  variation  are 
put  back  to  be  run  over  again.  These 
laps  are  put  up 

AT  THE  CARD. 
This  card  should  have  a  draft  of  not 
less  than  100.  The  end  is  set  for  me- 
dium work  and  uses  the  medium  count 
of  wire  fillet  for  wiring  doffer 
flats  and  cylinders.  Set  the  doffer 
(which  should  be  as  large  as  possible) 
from  the  cylinder  with  a  7-1,000-inch 
gauge.  The  flats  of  the  cards  should 
make  one  complete  revolution  every 
45  minutes.  The  cards  should  be 
cleaned  thoroughly  twice  a  day  and 
the  front  wiped  off  many  times  more, 
to  keep  fly  from  falling  back  into 
good  work.  Strips  should  be  collected 
at  regular  intervals  which  should  not 
be  so  long  apart  as  to  allow  the  fly  to 
accumulate  so  that  it  is  liable  to  fall 
over  on  the  doffer  or  be  drawn  up  In- 
to the  flats.  This  it  cannot  do  if 
cards  are  equipped  with  a  Thompson 
waste  roll.  The  sliver  at  the  front 
should  weight  60  grains  per  yard  and 
the  production  should  be  about  750 
pounds  for  a  week  of  60  hours.  Strip 
cards  three  times  a  day  (twice  in 
morning  and  once  in  afternoon)  and 
grind  all  over  once  every  three  weeks. 

DRAWING. 

The  cotton  is  next  put  through 
three  processes  of  drawing  frames. 
These  frames  may  be  equipped  with 
leather  top  rolls  or  metallic  top  rolls. 
If  the  former,  be  sure  to  see  that  the 
rolls  are  well  covered  and  in  perfect 
condition  and     well     varnished.      The 


frames  should  at  least  receive  a  set 
of  front  top  rolls  every  week.  The 
speed  of  the  front  roll  should  be  about 
350  revolutions  per  minute.  The 
frames  may  be  equipped  with  metallic 
rolls  to  good  advantage  and,  if  they 
are,  care  should  be  taken  to  keep  the 
flutes  free  from  dirt  of  all  kinds.  The 
weight  of  the  drawing  sliver  at  the 
front  of  the  finisher  drawing  frame 
should  be  75  grains  per  yard.  The 
cans  of  sliver  are  put  up  to  the  slub- 
ber and  spun  into  .50  hank  roving. 
Varnish  the  front  loose  top  rolls  of  the 
slubber.  The  other  sets  of  top  rolls 
may  also  be  varnished,  but  they  are 
not  so  important.  Keep  rolls  properly 
covered,  oiled  and  weighted.  Look 
out  to  see  that  no  cut  work  is  being 
made.  After  passing  through  the 
slubber  the  cotton  is  put  through 
three  processes  of 

FLY  FRAMES 

and  made  into  the  following  hank  rov- 
ing: at  each  first  intermediate,  1.50; 
second  intermediate  or  roving  frame, 
4,  and  jack  frame  10  hank.  Be  careful 
to  see  that  proper  twist  is  being  put  in, 
just  enough  so  that  the  roving  will  not 
break  back  at  the  succeeding  process. 
The  method  of  finding  the  standard  for 
twist  has  been  given  in  a  previous  ar- 
ticle. Another  point  is  to  see  that 
the  tension  is  right,  because,  if  it  is 
too  much,  the  roving  will  be  apt  to  be 
strained,  while,  if  too  slack,  a  soft 
bobbin  will  be  made.  Keep  top  leath- 
er rolls  in  good  condition,  as  well  as 
spindles  well  oiled  for  good  roving. 
After  having  passed  the  fly  frames 
the  roving  is  taken  to  the 

RING  SPINNING  FRAME 

and  spun  into  40s  yarn.  If  spun  on  a 
warp  frame,  use  a  frame  having  a  1%- 
inch  diameter  ring,  6%  inches  trav- 
erse, twist  per  inch  of  28.46,  and  spin- 
dle speed  of  10,000  revolutions  per 
minute.  If  spun  on  a  filling  frame 
use  a  frame  having  a  li/4-inch  diam- 
eter ring,  5%-inch  traverse,  twist  of 
23.72  and  spindle  speed  of  8,800  revo- 
lutions per  minute.  The  yam  is  next 
twisted  into  2  ply  at  the  twister  and 
then  the  warp  yarn  is  run  on  a  chain 
warper;  from  here  it  is  taken  and 
dyed,  after  which  it  has  to  be  warped 
again  on  a  beam. 


Dyeing    Particulars. 

Following  are  the  dyeing  particulars 
on  cotton  yarn  and  mercerized  yam: 

SCARLET. 
Four  per  cent   direct  scarlet  A;    30 
per  cent  common  salt. 


192 


A   COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY. 


MAROON. 

Three  and  one-half  per  cent  direct 
maroon  B;    30  per  cent  common  salt. 

PINK. 

Three-quarters  per  cent  direct  pink 
7  B;  20  per  cent  salt. 

YELLOW. 

Three  per  cent  chromine  G;  30  per 
cent  salt. 

GREEN. 

One  and  one-half  per  cent  naphta- 
mine  green  4  B;  25  per  cent  salt. 

NAVY  BLUE. 

Pour  per  cent  naphtamine  blue  2  B; 
30  per  cent  salt. 

LIGHT  BROWN. 

One-half  per  cent  naphtamine  brown 
N  cone;  i/^  per  ceit  naphtamine  yel- 
low N  N  cone;  20  per  cent  salt. 

SKY  BLUE. 

One  per  cent  diamine  sky  blue  F  F; 
30  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 

ORANGE. 

One  per  cent  naphtamine  orange  O; 
30  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 

LIGHT  OLIVE. 

Three-quarters  per  cent  direct  olive 
R;  %  per  cent  naphtamine  yellow  N 
N  cone;  30  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 

BROWN. 

One  per  cent  naphtamine  brown  6  B: 
2  per  cent  naphtamine  yellow  N  N;  30 
per  cent  salt. 

SLATE. 

One  and  one-half  per  cent  naphta- 
mine black  N;   20  per  cent  salt. 

BOTTLE  GREEN. 

Five  per  cent  naphtamine  black  2  G; 
1  per  cent  naphtamine  yellow  N  N;  30 
per  cent  salt. 

BLACK. 

Five  per  cent  naphtamine  black  D; 
30  per  cent  salt. 

HELIOTROPE. 

One-quarter  per  cent  heliotrope  B 
B;  20  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 

ECRU. 

One  ounce  naphtamine  brown  N;  2 
ounces  naphtamine  yellow  N  N;  20 
per  cent  salt. 


TARTANS. 


Tartans,  also  termed  tartan  plaids, 
or  Scotch  plaids,  are  highly  colored 
fabrics,  the  distinguishing  effect  being 
large  plaid  or  check  effects  formed  by 
two  or  more  colors  of  warp  and  filling, 
more  particularly  containing  such 
prominent  colors  as  red,  yellow,  blue, 
orange,  green,  purple,  primary  and 
secondary  colors  and  other  showy  col- 
ors, to  a  greater  or  less  degree.  Pure 
blacks  and  whites  are  also  used. 

THE  MATERIALS 
used    are    yarn    dyed.      The    weaves 
used  are  usually  the  plain,       ^  twill, 

—^  basket,   — g      twill,      ^     basket, 

and  rearrangements  of  or  combina- 
tions of  these  weaves,  which 
distribute  the  warp  and  filling  in  equal 
proportions  on  both  sides  while  re- 
taining a  firm  structure  of  cloth. 

The  Mayo  or  Campbell  weave.  Fig. 
1,   and  the   C-end  twill  and   C-end   bas- 


o^BODBaa 

DBaaaaaa 

■aananaa 

BGaaaaaa 

annaaaaa 

GBDaaDBa 

DBDGaaBa 

BDaaaDBO 

DBBaaDaa 

DDBBaaaa 

DDa«BaDB 

aaaaBaaa 

BBDnanaa 

aaaanaaG 

aBBGoaaD 

aoaaaaaa 

Fig.  1. 


Fig.  2. 


ket  are  used  for  the  finer  grades  of 
goods. 

Tartans,  altbough  sometimes  made 
with  cotton  yarns,  are  more  extensive- 
ly made  with  worsted.  They  are  also 
made  with  other  fibres. 

References  to  tartans  being  used  for 
wearing  apparel  are  found  in  litera- 
ture, dating  back  to  the  15th  century. 

At  the  present  time  tartans  are  used, 
as  of  old,  for  ladies'  dress  goods,  and 
also  for  a  certain  type  of  garment  for 
men,  well  known  where  Scotchmen 
have  found  their  way. 

The  word  tartan  is  of  doubtful  ori- 
gin, some  historians  claiming  one  and 
some  another.  For  several  hundred 
years  it  has  been  connected  with  cloths 
made  and  worn  principally  by  people 
in  the  Scottish  highlands.. 

The  Highlanders  were  formerly  di- 
vided into  sections,  or  clans,  each  of 
which  had  its  own  special  tartan,  the 
latter  varying  in  the  arrangement  oi 
colors,  or  of  the  colors  themselves,  or 
of  both,  from  those  used  by  the  other 
clans. 

The  Scottish  clans  and  their  tartans 
have  been  ably  and  extensively  dealt 
with  in  literature,  books  having  been 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


193 


published  on  the  subject,  to  which  the 
reader  is  referred  for  more  detailed  in- 
formation. In  some  of  these  publica- 
tions the  illustrations  show  the  princi- 
pal tartans  in  their  several  colors. 

A  collection  of  tartans  of  good  qual- 
ity is  one  of  the  besit  aids  in  studying 
pure  color  combinations  that  can  be 
obtained. 

It  is  said  that  the  tartan,  no  matter 
of  what  colors  or  arrangement  of  col- 
ors the  plaid  may  be  composed,  signi- 
fies the  brotherhood  of  the  various 
Scottish  clans. 

THE  SIMPLEST  FORM 
of  tartan  is  in  two  colors,  arranged  so 
many  ends  of  one  color  and  an  equal 
number  of  ends  of  another  color  in  the 
warp,  the  arrangement  of  filling  being 
similar  to  the  warp,  making  blocks  of 
equal  size. 

The  combinations  of  colors,  or  ar- 
rangements of  yarns,  may  vary  as  de- 
sired. 

From  this  base  an  infinite  variety 
of  variations  can  be  made;  4,  5  and  6- 
color  tartans  are   commonly  made. 

In  a  tartan  made  in  six  colors,  red, 
yellow,  blue,  green,  black  and  white, 
with  the  exception  of  the  yellow  and 

White  ends,  which  work  - — | ,  the 
weave  is  as  shown  in  Fig.  2. 

A  tartan  with  a  prominent  weave  ef- 
fect, as  in  this  instance,  is  something 
unusual.  The  idea  here  seems  to  have 
been  to  get  a  stripe  effect. 

To  produce  said  tartan,  IC  har- 
nesses would  be  required,  8  for  the 
ground,  6  for  the  warp  float  and  2  for 
the   selvedges.     The   sections   worTcing 

- — 'j  work  in  8-end  sateen  order;  the 
largest  contains  6  ends,  therefore  6 
harnesses  only  are  required. 

Being  a  fabric  characterized  by  col- 
or effect,  tartans  are  made  to  vary  in 
quality,  width,  weight  and  finish  to  a 
considerable  degree,  according  to  re- 
quirements. In  cotton  goods  they  are 
usually  developed  in  medium  counts  of 
yarn,  from  say  20s  to  40s. 

LOOM  REQUIRED. 
One  requisite  for  weaving  tartan  fab- 
rics is  a  loom  with  two  or  more  shuttle 
boxes  at  one  end.  For  almost  all  of 
the  patterns  a  single  box  will  answer 
at  the  other  end. 

The  harness  motion  of  the  loom 
will  differ  according  to  the  weave  re- 
quired. P\)r  a  plain  weave  tartan,  an 
ordinary  2-cam  gingham  loom  will  an- 
swer; in  fact,  about  the  only 
difference  between  a  tartan  and 
a  gingham  is  that  the  colors  of 
the  former  are  brighter  than  those 
of  the  latter,  and  yarns  of  oniy 
one     count    are     generally    used,  one 


warp  only  being  required,  whereas  in 
a  ginghrm  it  is  quite  common  to  have 
yarns  of  varjnng  counts  in  both  warp 
and  filling. 

A  tartan  plaid  is  also  larger,  as  a 
rule,  than  a  gingham  check. 

A  cam  box  loom  would  also  suffice  for 
weaviuc  4-harness  twill  and  derivative 
weaves,  although  it  might  be  prefer- 
able in  the  case  of  the  latter  to  use  a 
dobby  loom  on  account  of  the  cross 
dra wing-in  that  would  be  necessary. 

For  fancy  weave  tartans,  which  are 
in  the  minority,  a  box  loom  with  a 
dobby  head  is  required. 


LONG  CLOTH, 


Long  i.loth  is  a  fine  cotton  fabric 
of  superior  quality,  made  with  a  fine 
grade  of  cotton  yarn  of  a  medium 
twist.  Originally,  the  fabric  was  man- 
ufactured in  England  and  subsequent- 
ly imitated  in  the  United  States. 

The  fabric  is  used  exclusively  for 
lingerie  and  long  dresses  for  infants, 
from  which  it  has  apparently  derived 
its  name.  -^^^ 

Long  cloth  to  some  extent  resembles    \ 
such  fabrics  as  batiste,  fine  grades  of 
muslin,  India  linen  and  cambrics.  It  is       \ 
distinguished  from  these  fabrics  by  the       \ 
closeness  of  its  weave  and    when    fin-       ' 
ished.  the  fabric    possesses    a    whiter 
appearance,  due  to  the  closeness  of  the        i 
weave   and   the   soft   twist   yarn.     The         I 
fabric,   while   possessing  fair   weaving        t 
qualities,    is,    however,    not  used   as   a 
dress  fabric,  chiefly  because  of  its  fin- 
ished  appearance  which  is  similar  in        ' 
all  respects  to  fabrics    which  we  have       / 
been  accustomed  to  see  that  are  used 
solely  for  lingerie,  night  gowns,  etc. 

Long  cloth,  like  the  fabrics  enu- 
merated above,  is  made  in  a  variety  of 
grades  or  qualities.  It  is  a  very  com- 
mon thing  in  textile  manufacturing  to 
vary  the  grade  of  a  fabric;  not  sim- 
ply because  the  manufacturer  loves  to 
do  so,  but  because  of  necessity,  com- 
petition, etc. 

THE  SOLE  PURPOSE 
of  the  manufacturer  is  to  produce  a 
fabric  that  will  sell  and  in  order  for 
a  fabric  to  sell,  it  must  be  attractive 
and  reasonable  in  price;  the  price 
which  a  manufacturer  can  command 
determines  precisely  how  he  must  con- 
struct any  fabric  which  he  may  offer 
to  the  consumer;  if  he  finds,  for  in- 
stance, that  long  cloth  is  more  sal- 
able at  12%  cents  a  yard  than  at  15a, 


194 


A   COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY. 


it  follows  that  he  must  make  it  at 
the  former  price.  In  order  to  make  it 
profitable  at  12i/^  cents  per  yard  he 
must  either  use  a  cheaper  grade  of 
yam  or  make  a  slightly  lighter  fabric, 
by  using  a  fine  count  of  yarn,  which 
will  produce  more  yards  of  cloth  per 
pound  of  yarn;  thus  are  brought 
about  the  various  grades  and  quali- 
ties of  fabrics. 

The  public  is  sometimes  badly  mis- 
taken when  it  imagines  it  buys  pre- 
cisely the  same  fabric  at  12% c.  which 
some  other  concern  is  offering  at  15c. 
per  yard. 

Following  is  an 

ANALYSIS   OF   A   FABRIC 
which  sells  at  15c.  per  yard. 

Width  of  warp  in  reed,  incluaing 
selvedges.  37%  inches.  Width  of  fabric 
fmished,  36  inches;  ends  per  inch  fin- 
ished, 100;  ends  per  inch  in  reed, 
9G;  ends  in  warp  without  selvedges, 
3,600;  ends  in  selvedges,  40;  total  ends 
in   warp,    3,640. 

Take-up  of  warp  in  weaving  8  per 
cent;  weight  of  finished  fabric  2.5 
ounces;  warp  all  l-50s  cotton;  filling 
all   l-60s  cotton. 

Picks  per   inch  finished,  92. 

Picks  per  inch  in  loom,  90. 

LOOM  REQUIRED. 

A  factor  of  supreme  importance  in 
the  production  of  light  cotton  fabrics 
is  the  loom  facilities  available;  such 
fabrics  as  long  cloth  and  fabrics  close- 
ly allied  in  character  are  woven  most 
profitably  on  high-speed  looms,  such 
as  a  self-filling  Northrop  loom. 

Long  cloth  is  but  a  plain  woven  fab- 


naaBnacB 

■OBDHUBO 
aBaBGBDB 

mamaaaaa 

DBaBDBUB 
BaBOBCBD 
DflDSaBOB 
BZIBDBOBO 
Fig.  1 

OaDDDDDB 
DDaDDaBD 
□DDDCBDn 

nnaDBDDQ 

DDDBDnDO 

aoBDDGna 

DBDaDDDD 

■DDnnDDD 

F,g.  2 


ric  (Fig.  1  design;  Fig.  2  drawing-in 
draft)  and  is  usually  woven  with  eight 
harnesses,  owing  to  the  number  of 
ends  per  inch,  which  would  overcrowd 
the  heddles  and  cause  the  yarn  to 
chafe  and  break  if  less  harnesses  were 
used.  The  yarn  is  sized  before  the 
warp  is  beamed.  The  sizing  is  merely 
to  strengthen  the  yarn.  For  light  siz- 
ing it  is  not  necessary  to  use  anything 
but  wheat  flour,  farina,  or  sago  and  a 
small  quantity  of  softening  material, 
usually  tallow  or  wax. 


FINISHING. 

After  the  fabric  is  woven  it  is  sent 
to  the  bleaching  house.  The  first 
process  is  to  boil  it,then  it  is  bleached. 
After  the  bleaching  process  the  fabric 
is  subjected  to  a  very  light  sizing.  The 
most  prominent  of  the  sizing  ingredi- 
ents is  the  softening  material  used, 
which  may  be  glycerine,  paraflBne,  co- 
coa oil,  olive  oil  or  bees'  or  Japan  wax. 

After  the  fabric  is  sized  it  is  run 
through  a  rotary  press,  the  cylinders 
of  which  are  only  slightly  heated.with 
equally  as  little  pressure  on  the  fabric. 
The  cloth  is  then  folded,  after  which  it 
is  ready  for  the  market. 


Carding   and    Spinning    Particulars. 

The  yarns  for  this  fabric  are  made  in 
the  second  division  of  mills,as  given  in 
a  previous  article.  Long  cloth  is  also 
sometimes  made  in  the  better-equipped 
mills  of  the  first  division.  The  raw 
stock  used  is  generally  Allen  or  peel- 
er cotton,  the  average  length  of  staple 
of  which  does  not  exceed  1%  inches 
in  length.  In  some  grades  of  long 
cloth  the  filling  yarn  is  combed,  but 
as  it  is  the  more  general  custom  to 
use  a  carded  yarn,  we  will  work  on 
this  basis.  Make  the  mixings  as  large 
as  possible.  After  being  mixed  the 
cotton  is  put  through  three  processes 
of  picking  and  an  opener.  Keep  the 
opener  hopper 

WELL  FILLED, 

so  that  the  pin  beater  will  always  have 
to  strike  some  of  it  back.  A  well- 
filled  spiked  lifting  apron  means  an 
even  amount  of  cotton  being  fed  to 
the  breaker  picker  and  therefore  a 
more  even  breaker  lap.  For  this  class 
of  cotton  a  three-bladed  rigid  type 
of  beater  is  best.  The  speed  of  this 
beater  should  be  about  1,050  revolu- 
tions per  minute,  as  this  class  of  cot- 
ton is  generally  very  dirty  and  re- 
quires an  extra  amount  of  beating  in 
the  breaker  aad  intermediate  pickers 
so  as  to  get  a  good,  clean  lap.  The 
weight  of  lap  at  the  front  of  the  break- 
er picker  should  be  40%  pounds. 
These  iaps  are  put  up  and  doubled  4 
into  1  at  the  intermediate  picker.  The 
beater  used  on  this  picker,  to  get 
good  results,  should  be  a  two-bladed, 
rigid,  type,  the  speed  of  which  should 
be  1,500  revolutions  per  minute.  The 
weight  of  the  lap  at  the  front  should 
be  38  pounds  or  a  12-ounce  lap.  These 
laps  are  put  up  at  the  intermediate 
picker  and  doubled  4  into  1.  It  is  at 
this  picker  that  the 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


195 


CUT  ROVlNCi  WASTE 
is  mixed  in  in  the  proportion  of  three 
laps  raw  stock  to  one  lap  roving 
waste.  If  the  mills  are  not  provided 
with  a  roving  picker,  the  third  lap  is 
taiven  out  and  the  rovmg  fed  on  top  of 
the  sheet  that  comes  from  the  fourth 
lap.  Do  not  use  too  much  waste  be- 
cause it  tends  to  make  split  laps  which 
cause  trouble  in  licking  and  making 
.single  at  the  card.  The  beater  of  the 
finisher  picker  is  generally  a  two-blad- 
ed rigid  type,  the  speed  of  which 
should  be  about  1,500  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  total  weight  of  the  lap 
at  the  front  should  be  36  pounds  or. a 
13-ounce  lap.  A  variation  of  one-hajf 
pound,  either  standard,  is  allowed  for 
this  work.  The  cotton  passing  through 
the  finisher  picker  receives  42  beats  or 
blows  per  inch.    Put  these  laps  up 

AT  THE  CARD 
which  should  have  wire  nilet  for  spin- 
ning medium  counts  of  yam.  The 
draft  of  this  machine  should  not  ex- 
ceed 115.  The  speed  of  the  licker-in  Is 
375  revolutions  per  minute  and  the 
flats  make  one  complete  revolution 
every  50  minutes.  The  percentage  of 
waste  and  fly  taken  out  is  about  3.75 
to  4.  Use  medium  settings  and  be 
sure  that  the  feed  plate  is  not  set  too 
close  so  as  to  break  the  staple.  The 
cards  should  be  stripped  as  follows: 
Three  times  for  cylinders  and  four  for 
doffers  per  day.  Grind  cards  all  over 
at  least  once  every  three  weeks,  light- 
ly, and  set  after  having  ground.  The 
weight  of  the  sliver  at  the  front 
should  be  60  grains  per  yard.  The  pro- 
duction on  this  class  of  goods  should 
be  700  to  750  pounds  per  week  of  60 
hours.  This  sliver  is  put  through 
three  processes  of  drawing  frames 
which  may  be  either  equipped  with 
metallic  or  leather-covered  top  rolls. 
If  leather  top  rolls  are  used  a  good  re- 
ceipt for 

VARNISH, 
which  differs  from  those  already  giv- 
en, follows:  8  ounces  best  flake  glue, 
8  ounces  ground  or  flake  gelatine,  3 
pints  acetic  acid,  1  pound  burnt  or  raw 
sienna,  1  ounce  oil  of  origanum.  In 
many  mills  trouble  is  often  found  with 
the  laps  of  the  leather  rolls  breaking 
or  splitting  apart  when  varnish  is  first 
put  on.  If  the  laps  are  painted  with 
formaldehyde,  using  a  fine  brush  for 
the  purpose,  it  will  be  found  to  over- 
come this  trouble.  This  not  only  ap- 
plies to  drawing  frame  top  leather 
rolls  but  to  all  leather  rolls  that  have 
to  be  varnished. 

ANOTHER   POINT 
to  look  out  for  is  when  sending:  rolls 


u,tvay  to  be  covered,  all  waste  sliould 
ue  removed  from  the  bearings,  lor,  it 
ihis  is  not  done,  a  rust  spot  will  be  on 
tnem  when  they  are  returne<l  trom  the 
roll  coverer.  On  the  drawing  frame 
on  this  class  of  work  it  will  be  found 
advantageous  to  use  metallic  top  roils. 
If  used,  keep  the  flutes  clean  and 
smooth.  The  speed  of  the  front  roll 
should  be  375  revolutions  per  minute 
on  all  processes.  The  doublings  are 
6  into  1  and  the  weight  of  sliver  at  the 
front  is  70  grains  per  yard.  Size  the 
■drawing  frames  at  least  three  times  a 
day.  The  sliver  is  n6xt  put  up  at  the 
slubber  and  made  into  .55  hank  rov- 
ing. From  here  it  is  put  through 
three  processes  of  fly  frames  and  made 
into  11.50  hank  roving  at  the  jack 
frames.  The  hank  roving  at  the  dif- 
ferent processes  is  as  follows:  First, 
1.50;  second,  4  and  fine  11.50.  From 
here  it  is  taken  to  the  ring  spinning 
room  and  spun  into  50s  yam  on  a 
warp  frame  having  a  2% -inch  gauge, 
1%-inch  diameter  ring,  6-irLch  traverse, 
31.81  twist  per  inch  and  a  spindle 
speed  of  10,000  revolutions  per  minute. 
From  here  it  is  spooled  and  warped 
and  the  required  number  of  beams 
put  up  at  the  slasher  to  give  sufllcient 
end  for  the  warp  at  the  front.  A  good 
slasher  size  is  as  follows:  Water,  100 
gallons;  potato  starch,  65  pounds; 
tallow,  6  pounds;  Yorkshire  gum, 
three  pounds;  soap  (white)  two 
pounds.     Boil  1%  hours. 

For  the  filling  yarn  the  roving  is 
spun  into  60s  on  a  frame  having  2%- 
inch  gauge,  1^4  diameter  ring,  5-inch 
traverse,  27  twist  per  inch  and 
spindle  speed  of  8,000  revolutions  per 
minute.  This  yarn  should  be  condi- 
tioned. 


BUCKRAM. 


Buckram  may  be  dascribed  as  a 
coarse,  glue-sized  fabric  made  with 
cotton,  linen,  hemp  or  cotton  and  hair, 
the  name  in  most  cases  being  acquired 
by  the  finish  which  the  fabric  re- 
ceives after  it  is  woven.  Some  quali- 
ties of  buckram  are  but  plain  woven 
cotton   fabrics. 

Buckram  is  used  principally  for  stiff- 
ening garments,  being  much  in  de- 
mand by  tailors,  who  use  the  fabric  for 
stiffening  and  to  give  shape  or  form  to 
a  garment.  The  fabric  is  inserted  be- 
tween the  lining  and  the  surface  cloth 
of  the  garment  in  particular  parts, 
such  as  the  lapel,  cuff  or  wherever  the 


196 


A   COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY. 


sshape  of  the  garment  is  essential  to  its 
appearance.  Buckram  is  manufactured 
in  several  kinds;  the  fabric  used  for 
Oken's  wear  is  usually  made  with  lin- 
■en,  hemp  or  hair  and  cotton;  the  lat- 
ter combination,  namely,  hair  and 
cotton,  is  supposed  to  b©  th©  beat,  inso- 
far that  when  bent  or  twi»t#d  it  will 
spring  back  to  its  original  position; 
this  feature  cannot  be  attributed  to 
hemp  or  linen.  The  hair  and  cotton 
buckram  is  a  loosely  -woven  fabric,  the 
hair  figuring  as  warp,  and  Che  cotton 
as  filling.  It  is  usually  woven  in  plain 
twills  or     herring-bone     weave.      The 

DDBH3GaanGHGnBB::cBBonB 

DaBBDaBBaGaGLBBDDBBaDa 

oaajDaaauaaM^zaauGaacD 
GaaG3aaGGaaa„3aa~::Baza 
BajZjaaDnaa^.aBZ^aaccaaG 
■a=iziaa::Gaa~aH^zaai.LaaG 

ar^GBBJGaa^: ■■c^BBaLBB 

aG2BBJGBa_^-Ba  zmb-Cbb 

CrBaUGBB-ZB ■■-ZBBCDB 

aiiJBGaaa-JG^czfcB:  cbbccb 

OaajaBBGZBBBZCBBCaBBGa 

GaBGaaaGGBa  aGcaaGcaaGG 
naGGBBGGaBGaa. cbbggbbg 

■  AGGBBGDBaGa  BZGBBGCBBG 
BGGBBGGBBG-JZBBCGBBZGBB 

BjGBBGGBB~~"BBGGBBC^BB 
GGBBGGBBZGBGZBBG  BBZZB 
GGBBaGBB^-B~'"BBZZB«ZGB 
C»BGGB«GZBBBZrB»Z-  BB-G 
QBBGZBBGZBBBZ-BB  ZBBZG 
BB_ZBB  ZBBZBBZZBBZZBBG 
BBG^BBGZBBZZB-^ZBB'^-ZBBG 

■  3GBBZGBB-ZZBBCGBB^  GBB 
■GGBBGZBBGGGBBGGBBGGBB 

Fig.  1. 

ODBBGaaa 

BBGGBBGa 
DGBaaGBB 
BBGGBBGa 
CZaaGGBB 
BaGGBBGD 
□CBBGGBB 
BBGGBBGa 

Fig.    2. 

filling  is  usually  two  picks  in  one  shed. 
(See  P"'ig.  1,  design.) 

Buckram  also  figures  largely  in  the 
millinery  trade,  where  it  is  made  up 
into  hats.  These  hats  are  covered 
with  chenille,  plumes,  flowers  or  what- 
ever finery  may  be  desired. 

The  buckram  used  for  this  purpose 
is  a  plain  woven  cotton  fabric  heavily 
sized,  increasing  its  weight  from  50 
per  cent  to  100  per  cent.  The  odd  fea- 
ture of  milli-'ery  buckram  is  that  two 
separate  fabrics  are  made  into  one 
during  the  finishing  process  by  means 
of  gluing  or  sizing  them  together; 
these  two  fabrics  are  of  different  tex- 
ture. The  top  or  face  fabric  closely 
resembles  a  fine  cotton  voile, while  the 
back  or  bottom  fabric  might  be 
termed  a  coarse  tarlton. 

Millinery  buckram  is  a  piece-dyed 
fabric,  usually  in  sombre  colors,  such 
as  dark  red.  garnet,  dark  green  and 
black.  In  the  hair  and  cotton  fabric, 
which  is  principally  used  for  men's 
wear,  the  cotton  is  dyed  before  it  is 
woven. 

COTTON  BUCKRAM   ANALYSIS. 
Face  or  top  fabric:     Width  of  warp 
in  reed.  38  inches:  width  of  fabric  fin- 


ished, 36  inches;  ends  per  inch  fin- 
ished, 40;  ends  per  inch  ia  reed,  38; 
ends  in  warp,  1,440;  19x2  reed;  take-up 
of  warp  during  weaving,  8  per  cent; 
warp,  l-22s  cotton;  filling,  l-26s  cot- 
ton; 34  picks  per  inch;  weight  from 
loom,   2.22  ounces. 

Back  or  bottom  fabric:      Width    of 
warp  in  reed,  41  inches;  width  of  fab- 
ric finished,  36  inches;   ends  per  inch 
finished,  16;  ends  per  inch  in  reed,  14 
ends  in  warp,  576;   ends  selvedge,  24 
total  ends  in  warp,     600;     14x1    reed 
take-up  of  warp  during  weaving,  5  per 
cent;   warp,  l-12s  cotton;   filling,  1-lOs 
cotton;    12  picks  per  inch;    weight  of 
fabric  from  loom,  1.86  ounces. 

Weight  of  two  fabrics  after  finish- 
ing, as  one,  6.38  ounces;  nearly  60  per 
cent  added  by  sizing  materials. 

LOOM    REQUIRED. 

These  fabrics  may  be  woven  on  any 
light-built  loom,  the  speed  of  which 
should  be  from  150  to  170  picks  per 
minute.  The  warp  for  face  fabric  is 
usually  drawn  on  eight  harnesses;  the 
back  fabric  may  be  drawn  in  on  four 
harnesses  in  the  order  of:  1,  3,  2,  4. 
The  chain,  if  a  dobby  loom  is  used, 
must  be  built  accordingly.  (Fig.  2.) 
Chain  reauired:  2  repeats. 

FINISHING. 

These  fabrics,  as  previously  men- 
tioned, depend  a  great  deal  on  the 
finishing  which  they  receive.  The 
men's  wear  buckram  requires  less  siz- 
ing by  reason  of  the  strenuous  ordeal 
to  which  it  is  subjected  in  the  fulfill- 
ment of  its  purposes,  and  also  because 
the  warp,  which  is  composed  of  hair, 
is  in  itself  quite  stiff. 

Millinery  buckram  requires  more  at- 
tention. After  the  fabrics  are  woven, 
they  are  dyed:  the  finisher  then  must 
observe  that  the  fabrics  finish  the 
same  mdth,  so  that  when  sized  or 
glued  together  one  fabric  will  not  ex- 
tend beyond  the  other.  To  insure 
that  the  fabrics  lie  evenly,  they  are 
stitched  at  the  selvedges  by  means  of 
a  sewing  machine. 

The  fabrics  are  then  subjected  to 
the  sizing  process,  with  the  back  cloth 
to  the  roller,  which  revolves  in  the 
size:  this  allows  the  size  to  penetrate 
more  readily,  as  the  meshes  of  the 
back  cloth  are  larger  than  the  meshes 
of  face  fabric;  the  fabric  is  usually 
subjected  two  or  three  times  in  suc- 
cession before  it  is  finally  dried. 

The  ingredients  used  in  sizing  are 
glue,  flour  and  China  clay.  These  in- 
gredients are  used  in  various  propor- 
tions, the  following  being  an  example: 
40  parts  glue,  20  parts  clay.  40  parts 
flour. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


197 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  yarns  which  make  up  buckram 
vary  according  to  the  quality  of  fab- 
ric, but,  generally  speaking,  the  yarns 
are  what  are  called  coarse.  The 
yarns  of  this  class  of  goods  would  be 
made  in  mills  of  the  first  division  as 
given  in  a  previous  lesson.  In  coarse 
yarns  quantity  is  the  end  sought  for 
rather  than  quality.  Of  course,  this 
does  not  mean  that  everything  is 
dropped  for  quantity,  but  that  as 
great  a  production  as  possible  is  made 
at  each  machine  and  still  get  the  de- 
sired quality  for  the  class  of  goods 
being  made.  In  fact,  the  machines 
are  set  to  produce  this  result.  For 
this  article  we  will  consider  the 
buckram  to  be  what  is  called  "cotton 
buckram"  and  made  up  of  all  cotton 
yarn.  Other  kinds  of  buckram  are 
made  which  have  only  one  or  both  fill- 
ing and  warp  back  yarns  of  cotton 
fibre.  The  latter  are  made  up  of  very 
coarse  counts  of  yarns,  generally 
about  1-lOs.  Cotton  buckram  is  made 
up  of  finer  yarns  and  for  this  article 
we  will  consider  the  count  to  be  l-22s 
for  the  warp  and  l-26s  for  the  filling 
yarns.  Both  these  yarns  are  made  up 
of  the  same  staple  cotton,  generally 
a  low  grade  of  American  cotton  be- 
ing used  of  about  three-quarters-inch 
staple. 

MIXINGS. 
Waste  is  sometimes  mixed  with 
the  raw  stock,  but  we  will  con- 
sider that  only  good  sliver  waste  is  to 
be  mixed  with  the  raw  stock.  Large 
mixings  are  made  by  hand,  generally 
enough  to  last  a  week  or  longer  if  the 
mixing  bin  is  large  enough.  Mixing 
is  done  in  the  same  manner  as  in  the 
case  of  finer  grades  of  cotton,  making 
as  uniform  a  mixing  as  possible,  so 
that  all  the  bales  of  cotton  used  will 
be  distributed  throughout  the  mixing. 
For  this  class  of  goods  an  opener  and 
three  processes  of  picking  are  used. 
The  speed  of  the  breaker  picker, 
which  generally  has  three  blades  and 
is  of  a  rigid  type,  is  1,550  revolutions 
per  minute.  The  total  weight  of  the 
lap  at  the  front  is  40  pounds  or  a  16- 
ounce  lap.  These  laps  are  doubled 
four  into  one  at  the  intermediate  pick- 
er. This  picker  is  provided  with  a 
two-bladed  rigid  type  of  beater,  the 
speed  of  which  is  1,550  revolutions 
per  minute.  The  total  weight  of  the 
lap  at  the  front  is  39  pounds  or  a  14- 
ounce  lap.  The  laps  from  the  inter- 
mediate picker  are  put  up  at  the  fin- 
isher picker  and  doubled  four  into 
one.  This  picker  is  also  provided 
with  a  two-bladed     beater  of  a  rigid 


type,  the  speed  of  which  is  1,500  revo- 
lutions per  minute.  Great  care  should 
be  taken  to  see  that  the  cotton  mixing 
is  free  from  all  foreign  substances, 
for,  if  the  beaters  should  strike  any 
hard  substances  while  going  at  this 
rate  of  speed,  a  spark  is  sure  to  be 
struck,  which  may  cause  considerable 
damage.  The  total  weight  of  the  laps 
at  the  finisher  picker  is  38  pounds,  or 
a  14-ounce  lap.  A  variation  of  10 
ounces  either  side  of  the  standard 
weight  is  allowed  for  this  class  of 
goods;  all  laps  varying  more  than 
this  are  run  through  the  finisher 
picker  again. 

THE  CARD. 
The  laps  are  put  up  at  the 
card,  which  is  covered  with  a 
coarse  wire  fillet  on  doffer,  flats 
and  cylinder,  the  wire  on  the  cylin- 
der being  gauged  coarser  than  that 
used  for  the  doffer  and  top  flats.  The 
draft  of  the  card  should  not  exceed 
85  and  the  speed  of  the  flats  should  be 
one  complete  revolution  in  60  minutes 
on  a  110  top  flat  card.  The  cards 
should  be  stripped  four  times  a  day 
and  ground  once  a  month.  For  this 
class  of  work  look  out  for  the  dof- 
fer comb  to  see  that  it  is  set  right  and 
is  making  the  correct  number  of  vi- 
brations to  clean  the  doffer.  The  pro- 
duction of  the  card  is  '900  pounds  or 
even  975  pounds  for  a  week  of  60 
hours  with  a  70-grain  sliver.  The  sliv- 
er is  put  through  two  processes  of 
drawing  frames. 

THE  DRAWING  FRAMES 
for  this  class  of  work  are  generally, 
although  not  always,  equipped  with 
metallic  top  rolls.  Keep  the  flutes 
cleaned  and  the  rolls  well  oiled.  If 
leather  top  rolls  are  used,  keep  them 
well  varnished,  using  a  little  heavier 
varnish  than  the  recipe  given  in  the 
article  on  long  cloth.  The  weight  of  the 
sliver  at  the  finisher  drawing  is  75 
grains  per  yard.  The  doublings  at 
the  drawings  are  8  into  1.  This  sliver 
is  put  through  the  slubber  and  made 
into  .40  hank  roving.  This  is  then 
put  through  two  processes  of  fly 
frames.  At  the  nrst  it  is  made  into  1.00 
hank  rovin":;  and  at  the  second  2.50 
hank.  Look  out  to  see  that  the  full 
bobbins  iue  i)ro|)erly  shaiied  and  that 
the  frames  are  changing  right,  so 
that  the  roving  will  not  run  over  or 
under,  as  this  will  make  a  great  deal 
of  unnecessary  waste.  The  roving  is 
taken  to  the 

RING   SPINNING  ROOM 
and  spun     into  22s  warp     yarn  on  a 
frame  with  a  2% -inch  traverse,  2-inch 


198 


A   COTTON   FABRICS 


GLOSsiUY. 


diameter  ring,  7-incti  traverse,  22.28 
twist  per  inch  and  spindle  speed  of 
9,500  revolutions  per  minute.  This 
yarn  is  spooled  and  warped  and  these 
beams  put  up  behind  a  slasher  and 
sized  and  run  on  a  beam  at  the  front 
on  which  the  required  number  of  ends 
are  run.  The  filling  yarn  is  spun  in- 
to 26s  on  a  frame  having  2% -inch 
gauge,  1%-inch  diameter  ring,  6-inch 
traverse,  17.84  twist  per  inch  (3.25  x 
square  root  of  count)  and  a  spindle 
speed  of  8,000  revolutions  per  minute. 


Dyeing   Particulars. 

The  goods  are  piece  dyed  on  the 
jigs  or  padding  machines  with  one-dip 
colors. 

BLACK. 

5  per  cent  oxydiamine  black  A  K; 
30  per  cent  Glauber's  salt;  3  per  cent 
sal  soda. 

Navy  blues  are  also  dyed  in  the 
same  manner.  The  goods  are  very 
heavily  starched  with  dextrine  or  an- 
imal glues  of  various  kinds.  The 
goods  are  run  through  a  starch  man- 
gle, or  starched  by  hand  in  a  tub,  and 
dried  on  a  tenter  frame.  The  starch- 
ing process  is  repeated  until  a  suffi- 
cient stiffness  is  obtained. 

STARCH  SOLUTION. 

1  gallon  water,  10  ounces  dextrine, 
mixed  cold  and  boiled  for  one  hour. 
The  addition  of  a  little  color,  to  color 
the  starch,  is  sometimes  required. 


INDIGO  PRINTS. 


Indigo  print  cloth  is  one  of  the 
standard  types  of  cotton  fabrics  that 
are  run  with  more  or  less  success  all 
the  time,  no  matter  what  the  trend  of 
fashion  or  style  may  be. 

An  indigo  print  is  distinguished 
from  a  regular  print  by  having  a  print- 
ed figure,  of  any  desirable  type  or  de- 
sign, on  a  solid  indigo  blue  ground, 
the  latter  varying  in  depth  of  shade, 
according  to  requirements,  whereas 
the  ground  of  an  ordinary  print  cloth 
pattern  is  white  or  a  light  color. 

An  indigo  print  pattern  is  obtained 
by  one  of 

THREE  METHODS: 

indigo    blotch     printing,     indigo     dis- 
charge    printing     or     indigo       resist 
printing. 
The  basis  of  an  indigo  print  may  be 


any  of  the  many  types  of  plain  cotton 
fabrics,  according  to  weight  and  fijie- 
ness  desired,  although  what  is  known 
as  a  standard  print  cloth  is  general- 
ly used. 

A   "STANDARD  PRINT"  ^ 

is  supposed  to  be  constructed  as  fol- 
lows: 28s  warp,  36s  filling,  28  inches 
wide,  64  ends  and  64  picks  per  inch,  7 
yards  per  pound. 

28  inches  x  64  ends  per  inch  equals 
1,792  ends  in  the  warp,  not  allowing 
extras  for  selvedges. 

As  a  matter  of  fact,  a  great  many 
so-called  standard  prints  made  in  Fall 
River,  the  centre  of  the  print  cloth  in- 
dustry, contain  only  1,720  ends  in  the 
warp  and  62  picks  per  inch  in  the  fill- 
ing. 

IN   NEW   BEDFORD 

print  cloths  are  made  from  yarns  two 
numbers  finer  than  the  above,  being 
made  of  30s  warp  and  38s  filling.  There 
are  1,790  ends  in  the  warp  and  62  or  63 
picks  per  inch  in  the  filling. 

Another  print  cloth  made  in  Fall 
Riiver  is  28  inches  wide  and  contains 
28s  warp,  32s  filling,  64x64  (shy).  The 
weight  is  6.44  yards  per  pound. 

Although  28  inches  is  the  usual 
width  of  these  goods,  they  are  also 
made   in 

OTHER  WIDTHS, 

generally  wider.  A  certain  wide  Fall 
River  print  is  constructed  as  follows: 
34s  warp,  36s  filling,  46  inches  wide, 
56  ends  and  52  picks  per  inch,  5.4  yaxds 
per  iMDund. 

On  account  of  the  large  number  of 
standard  print  fabrics  used,  by  far 
the  largest  quantity  of  any  type  of  cot- 
ton fabric  made,  many  mills  are  run 
on  these  goods  entirely. 

THE  LOOM  REQUIRED 

for  weaving  print  cloths  is  of  the  or- 
dinary plain  2-harness  cam  type. 
From  a  general  consideration  of  the 
subject  it  would  appear  that  the  au- 
tomatic looms  would  be  the  most  eco- 
nomical to  use. 

With  a  plain  loom  the  drawing-in 
and  reeding  plans  are  similar  to  those 
previously  explained  when  considering 
other  plain  weave  goods — skip  shaft, 
draw  on  two  twine  harnesses,  which  is 
equal  to  4  wire  heddle  harnesses,  reed 
2  ends  per  dent;  selvedge  end,  double. 

In  consequence  of  the  colors  or  de- 
sign of  a  print  cloth  being  the  princi- 
pal salable  features  of  the  cloth,  and 
those  that  appear  to  the  eye  the  most 
readily,  more  attention  is  paid  to  quiaji- 
tity  than  quality  when  weaving  them, 
the  idea  being  that  the  printing  and 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY, 


199 


finishing  processes  will  obliterate,  or 
at  least  reduce, any  cloth  structural  de- 
fects that  may  be  made  in  the  loom. 
Cloth  defects  are  allowed  to  pass  for 
prints  that  would  not  be  allowed,  oniy 
as  second  quality  goods,  to  be  finished 
by  any  of  the  other  cotton  finishing 
processes. 

Carding  and  Spinning   Particulars. 

The  mills  which  make  yarn  used 
for  print  cloth  comprise  the  larger  per- 
centage of  all  the  mills  and  would 
belong  to  the  first  division  of  mills,  as 
given  in  a  previous  article.  While  the 
equipment  of  machinery  is  about  the 
same  in  all  mills  making  yarns  for 
print  cloth,  still  they  differ  in  a  great 
many  cases  as  to  the  number  of  proc- 
esses used.  For  example,  one  mill 
uses  two  processes  of  drawing  and  an 
extra  process  of  fly  frames;  another 
may  use  a  railway  head  and  cut  out 
one  process  of  drawing,  some  mills  us- 
ing this  machine  before  the  drawing 
frame  and  some  after.  Some  mills  may 
only  use  two  processes  of  pickers  and 
an  opener,  whereas  other  mills  use 
three    processes. 

ANOTHER  FEATURE 

about  mills  making  print  cloth  yarns 
is  that  there  is  very  little  if  any  chang- 
ing, according  to  the  usual  custom;  as 
one  overseer  puts  it,  one  set  of  gears 
is  nailed  on  when  the  machine  is 
started  and  left  on  until  worn  out,when 
another  set  of  the  same  number  of 
teeth  is  substituted  for  the  old  ones. 
In  this  article  it  will  be  the  general 
machines  and  number  of  processes 
which  will  be  given,  for  carding  and 
spinning  the  standard  print  yarns,  28s 
warp  and  3Gs  filling.  First  comes  the 
mixing,  which  may  be  done  either  by 
hand  or  by  machine  (bale  breaker). 
The  usual  methods  that  have  been  ex- 
plained in  previous  articles  may  be 
followed.  Next  the  sliver  waste  from 
the  different  processes  up  to  the  slub- 
ber is  mixed  in  at  the  bins  or  is 
sometimes  placed  in  the  hopper  of  the 
feeder  a-d  fed  to  it  a  little  at  a  time 
along  with  the  raw  stock. 

PICKERS. 

After  passing  the  opener  the  cotton 
is  put  through  three  processes  of  pick- 
ers, the  beaters  used  on  all  three  being 
generally  the  two-bladed  rigid  type. 
The  speed  of  these  beaters  at  the  dif- 
ferent processes  is  as  follows:  Breaker. 
1.500  revolutions  per  minute,  interme- 
diate and  finishers, 1.450  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  beats  per  inch  at  the 
finisher  picker  should  be  40  to  43  for 
this  staple  cotton.  The  total  weight  of 


the  laps  is  as  follows:  Breaker,  40 
pounds  or  a  16-ounce  lap;  intermediate, 

38  pounds  or  a  10-ounce  lap;   finisher, 

39  pounds  or  a  14V^-ounce  lap. 

A  variation  from  the  total  standard 
weight  of  the  lap  of  half  a  pound  either 
side  is  allowed.  All  laps  weighing 
more  or  less  are  run  through  the  fin- 
isher picker  again.  The  doublings  at 
the  last  two  processes  are  4  into  1. 
Mix  cut  roving  waste  at  finisher  proc- 
ess. 

THE  CARDS 

are  set  for  coarse  work  and  while 
there  are  still  many  of  the  old-style 
American  cards  in  use,  for  this  article 
the  newer  card  or  the  English  card  is 
much  used,  particulars  of  which  will 
be  given.  The  speed  of  the  cylinder 
is  IGO  to  165  revolutions  per  minute; 
the  licker-in,  350  revolutions  per  min- 
ute. The  feed  plate  should  be  set  to  the 
licker-in  one-eighth  inch  longer  than  the 
staple  of  the  cotton,  i.e.,  from  bite  of 
feed  roll  to  licker-in  teeth,  and  the  feed 
plate  should  have  a  fairly  pointed 
nose.  The  licker-in  should  be  set  with 
a  10-l,000ths  inch  gauge  from  cj'linder 
wire.  The  back  side  of  cylinder  screen 
should  be  set  l-32d  of  an  inch  away 
from  cylinder  wire,  directly  under- 
neath (in  centre),  with  a  28-l,O0Oths 
inch  gauge  and  at  the  front  one-quar- 
ter inch  away  from  cylinder  wire.  The 
doffer  should  be  set  to  the  cylinder 
loose  to  a  5-l,000ths  inch  gauge;  the 
doffer  comb  set  with  a  12-l,000ths  inch 
gauge  from  doffer  wire;  the  top  flats 
to  cylinder  wire  with  a  10-l,000ths  inch 
gauge  and  the  back  and  front  knife 
plates  should  be  set  the  same  as  for 
leno  cotton  fabrics.  The  top     flats 

make  one  complete  revolution 
every  45  minutes.  Strip  three  times 
a  day  and  grind  as  before  stated. 
The  production  for  a  week  of 
60  hours  is  750  to  850  pounds.  The 
weight  of  the  sliver  is  65  grains  per 
yard.  This  sliver  is  next  put  through 
three  processes  of 

DRAWING  FRAMES, 
the  speed  of  the  front  roll  being  400 
revolutions  per  minute.  Use  either 
metallic  or  leather-covered  top  rolls. 
The  advantages  of  both  kinds  have 
been  given  previously.  The  weight 
per  yard  of  the  drawing  is  70  grains. 
The  doublings  at  each  process  are  6  in- 
to 1.  At  the  slubber  the  drawing 
sliver  is  made  into  .55  hank  roving. 
The  top  rolls  for  this  staple  of  cotton 
are  not  generally  varnished.  The  slub- 
ber roving  is  next  put  through  two 
processes  of  fly  frames.  At  the  differ- 
ent processes  the  hank  roving  is  as 
follows:   First,  2  hank;     and  second  7 


200 


A    COTTOX   FABRICS   GLOSSARY. 


liank  for  the  warp  yarn.  The  different 
processes  up  to  the  last  fly  frame  for 
making  3Cs  filling  yarn  are  the  same. 
Here  the  roving  is  spun  into  8.50  hank. 
The  yarn  is  then  taien  to 

THE   SPINNING   ROOM 

and  made  into  28s  warp  yarn  on  a 
frame  with  a  6V2-inch  traverse,  2%~ 
inch  gauge,  1%-inch  diameter  ring,  25.- 
13  twist  per  inch,  and  9,700  revolutions 
per  minute  of  spindle.  This  yarn  is 
spooled  and  warped  and  then  put 
through  a  slasher.    A 

GOOD  SLASHER  MIXING 

to  use,  if  prints  are  to  be  woven  on  a 
common  loom,  is  as  follows:  Water, 
100  gallons;  cornstarch,  50  pounds; 
tallow,  3  pounds;  turpentine,  1  gill; 
boil  30  minutes.  If  woven  on  a 
Draper  loom,  use  the  following  size: 
Water,  100  gallons;  potato  starch,  50 
pounds;  tallow,  3  pounds;  turpentine, 
1  gill;  and  boil  30  minutes.  The  rov- 
ing for  filling  yarn  may  be  either  mule 
or  frame  spun.  It  is  the  general  cus- 
tom to  have  it  ring  spun  in  mills  built 
lately.  For  this  count  of  yarn  use  a 
frame  with  a  5%-inch  traverse,  1%- 
Inch  diameter  ring,  22.50  twist  per 
inch,  8,900  revolutions  per  minute  of 
spindle.  This  yarn,  after  being  con- 
ditioned, is  ready  for  use. 


Dyeing    Particulars. 

The  pieces  are  first  bleached  to  get 
a  good  white,  and  then  dyed  in  the 
continuous  vat. 

THE   HYDROSULPHITE   VAT. 

The  water  is  corrected  by  the  ad- 
dition of  one  quart  of  hydrosulphite  to 
every  250  gallons  of  water.  A  stock 
liquor  is  made  up  in  a  barrel: 

Fifty  pounds  synthetic  indigo  paste; 
2%  gallons  warm  water;  3%  gallons 
caustic  soda,  76  degrees  Tw.,  and 
stirred;  temperature  is  raised  to  105 
degrees  F.,  and  S  gallons  of  hydrosul- 
phite added.  The  temperature  is  kept 
at  about  105  degrees  F.  for  two  hours. 
If  the  solution  is  not  clear  yellow,  a 
further  addition  of  one  gallon  of  hy- 
drosulphite is  made.  The  vat  is  made 
up  from  the  stock  liquor  and  the  pieces 
are  passed  through  a  sufficient  num- 
ber of  times  till  the  required  shade  is 
obtained. 

The  pieces  are  washed  and  dried 
and  printed  with  a  discharge  paste. 

WHITE  DISCHARGE. 

Four  and  one-half  pounds  bichro- 
mate of  potash;  9  pints  hot  water;  lYz 
pounds  soda  calc,  thei  GV^  pounds  No. 


11  gum;   5  pints  water;    heated  to  140 
degrees  F.,  cooled  and  strained. 

COLORED   DISCHARGE. 

Eight  pounds  discharge  pigment;  10 
pounds  discharge  thickening;  71/2 
pounds  tragacanth,  8  ounces  to  gallon. 

DISCHARGE  THICKENING. 

Eight  pounds  tragacenth,  8  ounces  to 
gallon;  2%  pounds  bichromate  potash; 
3%  pints  hot  water;  after  dissolving 
add  20  ounces  ammonia,  25  per  cent; 
when  cold  add  1  gallon  blood  albumen, 
8  pounds  to  gallon;  after  printing  and 
drying,  the  material  is  passed  through 
the  following  acid  bath  at  140  degrees 
F.;  4  pounds  sulphuric  acid, 168  degrees 
Tw.;  4  pounds  oxalic  acid;  10  gal- 
lons water.  The  goods  should  be  im- 
mediately well  washed  and  dried. 


LENO  COTTON  FABRICS. 


Leno  fabrics  constitute  a  division  of 
textile  fabrics  characterized  by  partic- 
ular warp  threads  crossing  over  one  or 
more  warp  threads,  instead  of  lying 
parallel  to  one  another  as  in  ordinary 
or  plain  weaving. 

These  fabrics  possess  two  distinct 
sets  of   warp    threads,    the   regular  or 


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ground  warp  and  the  douping  warp  or 
warp  that  crosses  over  the  ground 
warp  and  forms  the  ornamental  fea- 
ture that  characterizes  the  fabric. 

Leno  fabrics  are  woven  upon  a  sys- 
tem quite  apart  from  ordinary  or  plain 
weaving. 

THE    DIFFERENCE 
lies  chiefly  in  the  fact  that  two  sets  of 
harnesses  are  required  to  operate  the 
warp,  the  ground  harness  and  the  doup 
harness  set. 

The  ground  harness  is  the  same  as 
in  ordinary  weaving;  the  doup  har- 
ness set  consists  of  two  harness  frames, 
if  .string  doup  is  used,    known  as    the 


A    COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY. 


201 


standard  and  skeleto  i  harness.  When 
wire  doupi.ig  heddles  are  used,  it  re- 
quires three  harness  frames.  We  will 
for  convenience  deal  with  the  string 
doup;  this  douping  heddle  is  but  a 
half  heddle,  so  to  speak.  This  half 
heddle  is  usually  fastened  at  the  bot- 


Flg.    1. 

torn  of  the  skeleton  harness  frame 
and  connected  with  the  stand  and 
harness  heddle  by  passing  through  the 
upper  opening  of  the  standard  hed- 
dle, then  through  the  eye  of  the  stand- 
ard heddle,  then  fastened  at  the  bot- 
tom of   the   skeleto  1     harness     frame. 


side  of  the  ground  warp  threads,  ihac 
is,  it  will  cross  under  the  gjounu 
threads;  if,  however,  only  the  doup 
heddles  are  raised,  the  douping  thread 
will  remain  in  its  noa-'Uial  position; 
that  is,  it  will  not  cross  under  the 
ground  threads.  We  must,  however, 
bear  in  mind  that  in  no  case  can  the 
standard  heddle  be  raised  without  also 
raising  the  doup  heddle;  whea  the 
standard  and  doup  are  raised  together, 
we  must  also  slacken  or  ease  up  on  the 
doup  warp  threads  in  order  'to  allow 
them  to  cross  under  the  ground  warp 
threads.     This  is  done  by  means  of  a 


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slackener  or  easing  rod.  This  rod  is 
similiar  to  what  is  known  as  the  whip 
roller  in  ordinary  weaving.  The  doup 
threads  pass  under  this  rod  into  the 
eye  of  the  doup;  this  rod  is  so  ar- 
ranged that  it  will  let  up  or  relieve  all 
tension  from  doup  threads  by  moving 
toward  the  loom.  When  doup  threads 
are  required  to  cross  under  ground 
warp  threads  the  easing  up  of  the  doup 
threads  must  be  indicated  on  chain 
draft.       (See  Fig.  5.) 

Fig.  3  shows  drawing-i:i  plan.  Fig.  4 
reeding  plan.     All    leno    fabrics    have 


(See  Fig.  1.)  The  secret  of  leno 
weaving  will  be  readily  understood  if 
it  is  borne  in  mind  that  it  consists  of 
but  two  movements  of  the  standard  and 
douping  heddles;  these  two  move- 
men'ts  are  that  if  the  standard  and 
doup  heddles  are  raised  at  the  same 
time, the  douping  thread  will  be  on  one 


special  reeding  plans;  the  reed  is 
sometimes  plucked,  that  is,  a  wire  tak- 
en out  of  reed,  so  ivS  not  to  overcrowd 
the  threads.  This  is  usually  done 
when  doup  threads  cross  under  six  or 
more  ground  threads;  the  doup  threaxl 
must  be  in  same  dent  with  the  ground 
threads  under  which  it  crosses. 


202 


A   COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY. 


ANALYSIS. 

1,400  reed  special  denting;  70  picks 
per  inch;  38  inches  in  reed.  Finished 
36  inches. 

WARP. 
9  white. 

2  medium    blue. 
6  white. 
2  medium  blue. 
9  white. 
2  darl£   blue. 

1  white — 2-ply. 

2  darli  blue. 

1  white — 2-ply. 

2  dark   blue. 

36 
As  the  warp  lay  out  is  on  S6  ends  the  cloth  con- 
tains two  repeats  of  the  same  to  one  repeat  of  the 
weave. 

Draw  the  2-ply  yarn  from  the  top 
beam. 

FILLING. 
■JO  white  l-.'i(K. 


Pins. 
659  Black 
233  Dark   blue 
56  Black 


Ends. 
48  1-40S. 
20  1-40S. 
4  2-40S. 


h4SPii]«.i   i-luiliiigselvedj;i'>..    Si'h  t'df;es-J-40s 

Diack. 

Take-up  during  weaving  ground 
warp  10  per  cent. 

Take-up  during  weaving  doup  warp 
65  per  cent. 

LOOM    REQUIRED. 

These  fabrics  are  usually  woven 
on  a  dobby  loom,  the  speed  of 
which  is  from  120  to  130  picks  per 
minute;  a  higher  speeded  loom  usually 
causes  consideirable  trouble  with  the 
doup   warp. 

The  loom  must  necessarily  carry 
two  warp  beams,  ground  warp  a^d 
doup  warp  beams.  Great  care  should 
be  given  to  the  setting  of  the  harness- 
es as  they  should  be  perfectly  even 
and  form  a  perfect  ched  when  in  op- 
eration. 

FINISHING. 

These  fabrics  are  principally  used 
for  shirts  and  shirtwaistings.  This  re- 
quires that  tlie  i>at terns  be  not  too 
large  and  that  the  warp  stripe  be 
more  prominent  than  the  filling  stripe 
wihen  fabric  is  made  with  filling  stripe; 
leno  fabrics  are  principally  yarn  dyed 
fabrics.  After  the  fabric  leaves  the 
loom  it  is  boiled  off,  then  given  a  light 
sizing,  preissed,  then  made  up  into 
rolls,  after  which  it  is  ready  for  the 
merchant. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Leno  fabrics,  like  all  fabrics  having 
a  trade  name  covering  a  certain  class 
of  goods,  are  made  up  of  various 
counts  of  yam  and  of  course  the  meth- 
ods used  in  making  the  different 
counts  va^ry  as  to  the  processes  used, 
also  the  kind  and  staple  of  cotton  and 


the  speed  and  setting  of  the  different 
parts  of  the  machines.  A  great  many 
times  changing  the  speed  or  setting  of 
one  part  of  a  machine  may  improve 
the  unevenness  of  the  yarn  or  roving, 
or,  if  made  at  the  picker,  stop  licking, 
so  that  it  is  very  bard  or  almost  im- 
possible to  give  a  hard  and  fast  rule  of 
speed  or  settings  for  the  machines  that 
will  cover  the  whole  of  leno  fabrics. 
The  particulars  which  are  given  may 
be  taken 

AS  A  FOUNDATION 
fro>m  which  to  work  and  a  little  vari- 
ation one  way  or  the  other  only  will 
be  needed.  For  an  example  of  leno 
yarns,  we  will  consider  the  fabric  to 
be  made  up  of  l-40s  and  2-40s  warp 
and  l-50s  filling  yams.  For  these 
counts  of  yarn  the  equipment  of  the 
second  division  of  mills  will  be  needed. 
The  cotton  generally  used  is  Allen 
seed  or  peeler  (American  cotton)  of 
1%-inch  staple.  Some  mills  comb 
both  warp  and  filling  yarns,  while  oth- 
er mills  comb  only  the  filling  yarns. 
In  this  article  we  will  consider  that 
only  the  filling  yarn  is  to  be  combed, 
although,  if  both  are  co-mbed,  the  par- 
ticulars given  below  may  be  used.  The 
mixing  is  made  as  has  been  previous- 
ly described,  it  being  pointed  out  that 
the  use  of  a  bale  breaker  in  connection 
with  a  blower  will  help  the  cotton  to 
a  great  extent.    An  opener  and 

TWO  PROCESSES  OF  PICKING 

are  used.  The  sliver  waste  from  all 
the  machines  up  to  the  slubber  is  mix- 
ed in  at  the  bins.  At  the  opener  use 
the  particulars  that  have  been  given 
ill  previous  articles.  The  breaker  pick- 
er has  a  two-bladed  rigid  type  of  beat- 
er, and  the  speed  of  the  beater  is  1,450 
revolutions  per  minute.  Care  should 
be  taken  to  clean  all  seeds,  etc.,  from 
under  the  bars  at  regular  and  frequent 
intervals.  The  total  weight  of  the 
lap  at  the  front  of  this  picker  is  38 
pounds,  or  a  13-ounce  lap.  These  laps 
are  put  up  at  the  finisher  picker  and 
doubled  4  into  1.  The  speed  of  tlie 
beater  of  this  machine  is  1,450  revolu- 
tions per  minute;  the  fan  speed  being 
1,100  revolutions  per  minute;  the 
driving  sihaft  of  the  picker  making  375 
revolutions  per  minute.  Cut  roving 
waste  is  mixed  in  at  the  finisher  pick- 
er in  the  proportion  of  1  lap  cut  waste 
to  3  laps  raw  stock,  the  cut  roving 
having  been  treated  as  described  in 
previous  articles.  The  total  weight  of 
the  lap  at  the  front  end  of  the  finisher 
picker  should  be  35  pounds  or  a  12^- 
ounce  lap.     The  laps  are  put  up 

AT  THE  CARD, 

the  draft   of  wihich  should  not  be  less 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


203 


'than  100.  The  wire  fillet  generally 
used  for  this  class  of  goods  is  34s  on 
cylinder  and  35s  on  doffer  and  top 
fiats.  Set  feed  plate  from  lick- 
•er-in  with  20-l,000ths  of  an  inch 
gauge;  lickeT  knives  from  licker-in 
12-l,000ths  of  an  inch;  cylinder  under 
screen  from  cylinder  22-l,00Oths  inch 
in  centre  and  one-quarter  of  an  inch 
at  each  end  of  screen;  top  fiats  from 
cylinder,  with  a  12-l,000'th3  inch 
gauge,  licker-in  from  cylinder  with  a 
1-1, 000th  of  an  inch  gauge,  doffer 
from  cylinder  with  7-l,00Oths  of  an 
inch  gauge.  Always  set  to  high  places. 
Set  the  back  edge  of  the  back  plate 
knife  17-l,000ths  of  an  inch  from  the 
cylinder.  The  front  plate  knife  has  its 
upper  edge  adjustable  in  order  that  the 
amount  of  stripping  to  be  taken  from 
the  fiats  may  be  regulated.  Setting 
this  plate  closer  to  cylinder 

MAKES  LIGHTER  STRIPPING, 
and  the  farther  away  it  is  set,  the 
heavier  stripping  it  produces.  The 
lower  edge  of  this  plate  is  set  to  a 
17-l,000ths  of  an  inch  gauge.  Grind 
and  strip  card  as  previously  described. 
The  top  fiats  should  make  one  com- 
plete revolution  every  45  minutes.  The 
percentage  of  waste  taken  out  at  the 
card  for  this  class  of  goods  should  be 
about  4%  to  4%.  The  production  for  a 
week  of  GO  hours  is  700  pounds  with  a 
<55  grain  sliver.  Use  a  large  diameter 
■doffer.  The  sliver  for  the  filling  yarn 
is  taken  to  the  sliver  lap  machine  and 
doubled  14  into  1  for  an  S%-inch  lap 
or  20  into  1  for  a  10-inch  lap.  The 
weight  of  the  lap  at  the  front  is  300 
grains.  These  laps  are  put  up  at  the 
ribbon  lap  machine  and  doubled  ti 
into  1.  The  weight  of  a  lap  at  the 
front  end  of  a  ribbon  lap  machine  is 
2C0  grains  per  yard  for  an  S%-inch  lap. 
Get  weight  for  a  10-inch  lap  by  pro- 
portion. Size  both  ribbon  and  sliver 
lap  machines  once  a  day. 

THE  DOUBLINGS 
at  the  comber  depend  on  the  number  of 
heads  of  the  machine;  recent  machines 
are  generally  provided  with  eight  heads 
with  a  10-inch  lap.  The  speed  of  the 
comber  for  this  class  of  stock  is  85 
nips  per  minute  for  old  machines  and 
100  nips  for  those  of  recent  construc- 
tion. Varnish  rolls  once  a  week,  us- 
ing one  of  the  recipes  given  in  pre- 
vious articles;  in  sticky  or  dog-day 
wea.ther  use  a  little  ground  charcoal 
and  gum  arable  dissolved  in  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  vinegar.  This  swells  to  five  times 
its  bulk.  Take  out  IS  per  cent  waste. 
After  passing  the  combers,  the  sliver  is 
put  through  two  processes  of  drawing, 
being  doubled  6  into  1.  The  speed  of 
the  front   roll   at  each   process   is   350 


revolutions  per  minute.  The  weight 
of  the  sliver  at  the  finisher  drawing  is 
70  grains  per  yard.  The  card  sliver  for 
the  warp  yarn  is  put  through  three 
processes  of  drawing,  the  speed  of  the 
front  roll  being  380  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  weight  of  this  sliver  is 
also  70  grains  per  yard.  The  sliver  is 
next  put  up  at  the  slubber  and  made 
into  .55  hank  roving.  From  here  it  is 
put  through  three  processes  of 

FLY  FRAMES, 
the  hank  roving  at  each  process  being 
as  follows:  First  intermediate,  1.50; 
second,  4,  and  jack,  12.  Keep  your 
leather  rolls  in  good  condition  and  see 
that  all  parts  of  machine  are  well  oiled 
and  that  top  and  boittom  rolls  are  prop- 
erly set.  which  for  this  length  of  sta- 
ple should  be  for  fly  frames  as  follows: 
Front  roll  to  middle,  1%  inches;  mid- 
dle roll  to  back,  1%  inches.  From  nere 
the  roving  is  taken  to  the  spinning 
room,  although  some  prefer  mule  spun 
yarn.  There  is  a  great  difference 
in  the  opinion  of  mill  men  as 
to  the  advantages  and  disadvantages  of 
both  systems,  one  mill  building  with 
no  mules  and  another  including  them 
in  its  equipment.  We  will  consider 
both  yarns  to  be 

FRAME  SPUN. 
For  a  warp  frame  spinning  40s  use  a 
frame  having  a  2%-inoh  gauge,  1%- 
inch  diameter  ring,  6i/^-inch  traverse, 
28.46  twist  per  inch,  10,000  revolutions 
per  minute  of  spindles.  The  l-40s 
warp  yarn  is  spooled,  warped  and  put 
through  the  slasher,  a  good  mixing  for 
which  has  been  previously  given.  The 
2-40s  yarn  is  put  through  a  twisting 
frame  and  spooled.  Enoug'h  spools 
are  put  up  at  the  warper  and  the  ends, 
after  which  run  on  to  a  specially  con- 
structed beam. 

For  the  filling  yarn  1-oOs,  use  a 
ring  frame  having  a  2%-inch  gauge, 
lJ?4-inch  diameter  ring,  5y2-inch  trav- 
erse, 2G.52  twist  and  spindle  speed  of 
8,200  revolutions  per  minute.  This 
yarn  is  conditioned  and  then  is  ready 
to  be  woven. 


Dyeing   Particulars  for  Yarn. 
BLACK. 

Ten  per  cent  immedial  black  N  N; 
10  per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  3  per  cent 
soda  ash;   30  per  cent  Glauber's. 

LIGHT  BLUE. 
Three  per  cent    diamine     sky     blue 
F  F:   3  per  cent  sal  soda;   30  per  cent 
Glauber's  salt. 

LIGHT   SLATE. 
One  per  cent  diamine  black;  B.  H;  1 


204 


A    COTTON   FABRICS    GLOSSARY. 


ounce  diamine  fast  yellow     A;     1  per 
ce.t  sal   soda;    20  per  cent  Glauber's. 

LIGHT  BROWN. 

One-half  per  cent  naphtamine  brown 
6  B;  1  per  cent  naphtamine  yellow  N 
N;  1  per  ce.it  sal  soda;  30  per  cent 
Glauber's. 

MEDIUM  GREEN. 

Six  per  cent  thion  green  G;  2  per 
cent  thion  yellow  G;  8  per  cent  sul- 
phide sodium;  3  per  cent  soda  ash;  30 
per  cent  Glauber's. 

MEDIUM    BROWN. 
Three  per  cent  tetrazo  dark  brown; 
3  per  cent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent  salt. 

MEDIUM  SLATE. 
One  per  cent  tetrazo  black  G;  1  per 
cent  sal  soda;  25  per  cent  salt. 
WINE. 
Three  per  cent  tetrazo  Corinth;  1  per 
cent  sal  soda;  25  per  cent  salt. 
RED. 
Three  per  cent  benzo  fast  red  4  B; 

1  per  cent  sal  soda;   25  per  ce.it  Glau- 
ber's. 

DARK  GREEN. 
Seven  per  cent  thion  green  B;   8  per 
cent    sulphide    soda;    3    per    cent   soda 
ash;  30  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 
ECRU. 
One  per  cent  thion  brown  G;    1  per 
cent   sulphide   soda;    2   per   cent   soda 
ash;    20  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 
FAWN   BROWN. 
One  per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow  A; 

2  per  cent    diamine   brown   M;    ±   per 
oent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent  salt. 

NAVY  BLUE. 
Five  per  cent  diamine  dark  blue  B; 
2  per  cent  sal  soda;  30  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's salt. 

•*  »  » ■ 

BEDSPREADS -Crochet  Quilts, 

Bedspreads,  also  termed  bed  quilts, 
coverlets  and  counterpanes,  are,  as 
the  names  imply,  used  as  coverings 
for  bed  clothing. 

Being  primarily  decorative  fabrics, 
most  of  them  show  elaborate  jacquard 
designs  of  a  type  peculiar  to  this  class 
of  fabric,  the  use  to  which  they  are 
subjected  necessitating  a  design  of  a 
large,  bold  character  that  is  complete 
in  itself  in  each  quilt. 

Quilts  are  of  various  sizes,  ranging 
from  crib  quilts.  28x03  inches,  to  large 
quilts,  92x108  inches. 


For  metal  beds  the  quilts  are  some- 
times cut  at  the  four  corners  so  they 
will  hang  better  and  make  a  neater 
appearance. 

Being  a  type  of  fabric  of  universal 
use  in  civilized  countries,  for  all  class- 
es of  people,  quilts  are  necessarily 
made  in  widely  varying  qualities. 
They  are  also  made  in  varying  single 
and  compound  structures  of  cloth,  and 
in  varying  types  of  designs. 

THREE  PRINCIPAL  TYPES. 

Three  of  the  principal  types  of 
structures  are  seen  in  quilts  known  as 
crochet,  Marseilles  and  satin.  The 
first  is  a  single  fabric,  where  all  yarns 
used  show  on  one  side  or  the  other. 

The  second  is  a  compound  fabric,  in 


which  the  extra  yarns  are  generally 
used  for  the  purpose  of  adding  weight 
and  at  the  same  time  producing  an  em- 
bossed pattern  on  the  face. 

The  third  is  a  double  cloth,  reversi- 
ble, with  some  types  of  designs  in 
which  each  of  the  single  cloths  alter- 
nate from  one  side  of  the  quilt  to  the 
other,  according  to  the  pattern  re- 
quired. 

These  three  types  will  be  considered 
in  the  above  order. 

It  may  be  mentioned  here  that  there 
are  other  names  of  quilts,  as  Toilet, 
Albany,  Mitcheline,  Duree,  Grecian, 
Embroidery,  Tapestry,  Kensington,  Al- 
hambra  and  Honeycomb,  but.  these 
may  be  included  in  one  or  other  of  the 
three  principal  types  mentioned. 
CROCHET    QUILTS. 

The  term  crochet  quilt  does  not 
mean  that  said  fabric  is  crocheted 
with  needles,  but  refers  to  the  simplest 
type  of  woven  single  cloth  quilt  made 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


20r 


with  medium  or  fine  counts  of  yarns. 
Honeycomb  and  Alhambra  quilts  are 
of  ttie  same  class,  differing  principally 
in  the  type  of  design  used. 

This  class  of  quilt,  for  full  size 
quilts,  shows  variations  in  size  from 
about  GSx82  inches  to  80x90  inches, 
and  in  weight  from  about  one  pound  12 
ounces  to  three  pounds  9  ounces,  per 
quilt. 

THE  ANALYSIS 
of  an  unbleached  crochet  crib  quilt 
shows  the  following  data:  Width,  31 
inches;  84  ends  and  72  picks  per  inch; 
24s  warp,  12s  soft  twisted  filling.  The 
warp  contains  2,600  ends  and  is  reed- 
ed three  ends  per  dent  in  a  26-dent 
reed.  The  cloth  will  finish  about  28 
inches  wide. 

By  reference  to  Fig.  1,  it  may  be 
seen  that  the  pattern  is  a  stripe  com- 
posed of  four  sections  in  each  repeat, 
as  follows:  First,  a  section  of  honey- 
comb effect,  formed  by  weave  Fig.  2, 

■□■□DD 

amamnm 

■■■OBD 

□■aaoB 
■DBDnn 

OBDDDD 

Fig.  2. 

5S5PSP5SH5G"°"°°"°"0"nB«DBnBD«nD 

BDBgBDBBDBnBaBDDBDBDBDBBDBnBDBOD 

□BDgBgBGBOBBaBDaBDBaaBDaBDaBDBaa 

□BaBDaqaBDBDBQBBaBaBDBDaBaaOBGBB 

□anaaBqaBaaaBaaBDaoaaBnoBaaDBDBB 

BaBBnBDnBgBBDBDaaBDDBDaDBnBBDBDa 

fRS2SyS5H59S°B°°"D"D»cBBGBDBnBnn 

DBnBDBDaBDBDBnBBDBnBDBDnBnBDBDBB 
RSaBDBnnBnBnBnBBnBnBDBDDBHBnBDBB 
QBnDBQBBaaaDBDBDBDBBDBDBaBaaBDBa 

Fig.  3. 

on  6x6;  second,  a  continuous  floral  ef- 
fect, filling  flush  weaves;  third,  a 
crepe  effect,  formed  by  weave  Fig.  3 
on  32x12;  fourth,  like  the  second  sec- 
tion, but  dropped  78  picks,  one-half 
the  number  in  each  repeat. 

There  are  a  little  more  than  12  re- 
peats in  the  entire  width.  The  sel- 
vedges are  each  one-half  inch  wide, 
reeded  the  same  as  the  ground,  and 
show  an  angled  twill  weave  effect. 

The  length  of  the  pattern  filling  way 
is  2  3-16ths  inches  and  requires  156 
picks  for  a  repeat. 

As  there  are  200  ends  in  a  repeat  of 
the  design,  a  400-hook  jacquard  might 
be  used,  each  pick  of  the  pattern  be- 
ing read  twice  on  each  card. 

THE  LOOM  REQUIRED 
for  this  type  of  fabric  is  of  medium 
weight.  The  pattern  being  small,  a 
small  jacquard  head  of  the  ordinary 
rise  and  drop  type,  or,  if  the  weave 
is  not  required  to  be  changed  to  form* 
the  headings  of  the  quilt,  a  double  ac- 
tion head  may  be  used. 


For  the  sample  shown,  if  required 
to  have  headings  at  both  ends  to  com- 
plete the  quilt,  differing  in  weave 
from  the  ground,  what  is  termed  a 
double  or  single  acting  automatic  aux- 
iliary cylinder  jacquard  would  be  the 
most  economical  to  use. 

If  the  ground  weave  was  required 
to  be  repeated  25  times  between  head- 
ings, an  ordinary  jacquard  attachment 
would  require  25x156  picks  in  repeat, 
equalling  3,900  cards  for  the  ground, 
whereas  with  the  auxiliary  cylinder 
machine  156  cards  only  would  be  re- 
quired for  this  same  section. 

For  larger  patterns,  the  capacity  of 
the  jacquard  would  be  required  to  cor- 
respond, i.  e.,  with  more  than  400  ends 
in  a  repeat. 

FINISHING. 

The  goods  are  generally  woven 
white  from  unbleached  yarn,  and  are 
bleached  and  finished  after  they  leave 
the  loom.  A  quilt  will  shrink  in  width 
about  10  per  cent  from  the  gray  to  the 
finished  state,  and  increase  about  1 
per  cent  in  length. 

After  bleaching,  starching  and  blu- 
ing, they  are  cut,  hemmed  or  fringed 
as  desired,  inspected,  rolled  or  folded, 
tagged  and  papered. 

It  is  not  advisable  to  leave  finished 
quilts  unpapered  for  any  length  of 
time  if  in  the  same  building  as  the 
bleach  house,  because  the  fumes  from 
the  bleaching  liquors  take  out  the  blu- 
ing in  a  short  time.  If  this  is  done 
after  the  quilt  is  folded,  the  bluing 
is  taken  from  the  outer  layers  only, 
and  uneven,  poor-looking  quilts  result. 


Carding  and  Spinning   Particulars. 

The  yarns  of  which  bedspreads  are 
composed  are  made  in  mills  of  the 
second  division.  There  is  one  feature 
about  the  filling  yarn  which  is  not 
comiXnon  to  all  fabrics,  and  that  is,  it 
is  what  is  called  soft  twisted.  The 
counts  of  yarn  which  make  up  the 
fabric  to  be  described  in  this  article 
are  24s  warp  and  12s  filling. 
THE  WARP  YARN 
is  made  from  1%-inch  staple  Ameri- 
can cotton,  while  the  filling  yarn  is 
made  from  a  good  grade  of  1-inch  sta- 
ple American  stock.  The  mixing  is 
done  in  the  usual  manner,  which  has 
been  described  many  limes  before, 
separate  bins  being  used  for  the  two 
staples.  The  good  sliver  waste  from 
all  machines  up  to  the  slubber  is  mix- 
ed in  at  the  bins.  This  sliver  should 
be  spread  over  the  entire  mixture  and 
not  bunched  in  one  place;  it  should 
also   be  broken   into  short  lengths  so 


206 


A   COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY. 


that  it  will  not  be  so  apt  to  become 
tangled  around  the  spikes  of  the  hop- 
per. This  hopper  should  be  kept  full 
so  as  to  feed  an  even  amount  of  cot- 
ton to  be  struck  off  by  the  pin  roller 
at  the  top  of  the  lifting  apron. 

The  raw  stock  for  both  warp  and 
filling  yams  is  put  through  three  proc- 
esses of  picking,  the  breaker  picker 
being  generally  connected  directly  to 
the   opener.    Many   different  kinds  of 

BEATERS 
are  used  by  different  mills,  each  claim- 
ing certain  advantages  over  the  other, 
but  the  style  of  beater  in  most  generaJ 
use  throughout  the  mills  is  what  is 
known  as  the  two-bladed  or  armed 
rigid  type  of  beater,  although  many 
mills  use  a  three-bladed  beater  of  the 
same  style  for  the  breaker  picker.  To 
sharpen  the  edge  of  this  beater  its  side 
is  planed.  The  speed  of  the  beater  used 
for  the  same  stock  and  weight  lap  va- 
ries greatly  in  different  mills  and  the 
speeds  given  below  are  the  ones  used 
in  a  mill  making  this  class  of  goods. 
For  the  breaker  picker  the  speed  of 
the  beater  (two  bladed)  is  1,500  revo- 
lutions per  minute,  for  the  interme- 
diate, 1,450  revolutions  per  minute, 
and  for  the  finisher  1,350  revolutions 
per  minute.     The  total  weight  of 

THE  LAP 
at  the  breaker  is  40  pounds  or  a  16- 
ounoe  lap,  at  the  intermediate  37 
pounds,  or  a  10-ounce  lap,  and  at  the 
finisher  39  pounds  or  a  14%-ounce  lap. 
At  the  intermediate  and  finisher  pick- 
ers the  laps  are  doubled  four  into 
one.  The  draft  of  the  finisher  picker 
does  not  exceed  three.  At  this  picker  it 
is  customary  to  mix  in  the  roving 
waste  both  cut  and  uncut.  The  roving 
waste  that  has  not  been  cut  from  the 
bobbin  consists  of  that  which  is  made 
by  the  speeder  tenders  when  they  are 
putting  in  new  sets  of  roving  and  tak- 
ing off  single  and  double.  Speeder 
tenders  should  never  be  allowed  to  cut 
off  roving;  all  bad  work  being  sorted 
out,  charged  and  given  to  them  to  fix. 
All  marks  should  he  made  small 
and  near  the  bobbin. 

The  laps  from  the  picker  are  next 
put  up 

AT  THE  CARD, 
the  draft  of  which  for  this  fabric  should 
not  exceed  100.  The  wire  fillet  used 
should  be  No.  33s  for  cylinder  and  35s 
for  doffer  and  top  flats.  The  settings 
of  the  card  should  he  the  same  as  giv- 
en for  leno  cotton  fabrics,  although 
some  overseers  use  a  little  wider  set- 
tings for  this  class  of  stock.  The  speed 
of  the  licker-in  should  be  375  revolu- 
tions per  minute,  cylinder  165  revolu- 


tions per  minute,  and  the  flats  should 
make  one  complete  revolution  every  50 
minutes.  The  card  should  be  stripped, 
ground  and  cleaned.  The  weight  per 
yard  of  the  sliver  at  the  front  should 
be  about  65  grains  per  yard,  the  pro- 
duction for  a  week  of  60  hours  being 
750  pounds.  This  sliver  is  next  put 
through  three  processes  of 

DRAWING  FRAMES, 
the  doublings  at  each  process  being  6 
into  1.  For  this  class  of  goods  metal- 
lic rolls  may  be  used  to  great  advan- 
tage. If  leather  top  rolls  are  used, 
they  should  be  varnished  frequently 
and  kept  in  good  repair.  See  that  all 
parts  are  working"  properly,  especially 
those  parts  which  coil  the  sliver  into 
the  cans,  because  if  these  are  not 
working  properly,  the  sliver  cannot  be 
run  out  at  the  next  process  without  a 
great  deal  of  breaking  back  of  the 
sliver.  Imperfect  coiling  of  the  sliver 
is  a  great  many  times  caused  by  the 
cans  themselves,  they  being  out  of 
true  or  having  broken  parts  sticking 
out  and  coming  in  contact  with  part 
of  the  machine  and  stopping  the  can 
from  turning.  The  only  remedy  for 
imperfect  coiling  is  to  run  it  over 
again. 

The  spread  of  the  front  roll  of  the 
drawing  frame  at  each  process  is  375 
to  400  revolutions  per  minute.     The 

WEIGHT  OF  THE  SLIVER 
for  warp  yarn  is  70  grains  and  for  the 
filling  yam,  80  grains  per  yard.  These 
slivers  are  put  up  to  the  slubber  and 
made  into  .40  hank  for  the  1-inch 
stock  and  .60  hank  for  the  1%-inch. 
stock.  The  process  of  fly  frames  for 
the  li^-inch  stock  and  the  hank  roving 
made  at  each  process  are  as  follows: 
First,  2  hank,  and  second,  6.  From 
here  it  is  taken  to  the  ring  spinning 
room  and  made  into  24s  yarn  on  a 
frame  having  a  2%-inch  gauge  of 
frame,  2-inch  diameter  ring,  a  7- 
inch  traverse,  23.27  twist  per  inch  and 
a  spindle  speed  of  9,600  revolutions 
per  minute.  The  yam  is  then  spool- 
ed and  put  through  a  warper  and  these 
warps  put  up  at  the  slasher,  the  re- 
quired number  of  ends  being  run  on 
a  beam  at  the  front. 

The  slubber  roving  for  the  filling 
yarn  is  put  on  the  first  intermediate 
fly  frame  and  made  into  1  and  then 
into  2.5  hank  at  the  next  process,  after 
which  it  is  taken  to  the  muTe  room 
and  sipun  into  12s  yam  with  a  twist 
per  inch  of  2.75. 

After  leaving  the  loom,  quilts 
are  first  boiled  for  10  hours  with  a 

CAUSTIC    SODA     SOLUTION 
at  4  degrees  Tw.,     rinsed     well     with 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


207 


water  and  boiled  agaia  with,  a  4  de- 
gree Tw.  caustic  soda,  10  hours;  rinsed 
well  with  water,  soured  with  one-half 
degree  Tw.  oil  vitriol,  rinsed  with  wa- 
ter, chemicked  with  one-half  degree 
Tw.  chloride  of  lime  solution,  soured 
with  1  degree  Tw.  oil  of  vitriol  and 
rinsed  two  or  three  times  with  water. 
The  goods  are  placed  in  the  kiers,  each 
piece  separate,  and  handled  very  care- 
fully throughout  the  whole  operation. 


BEDSPREADS-MarseillesQDilts 

Marseilles  quilts  are  characterized 
by  large  embossed  effects,  usually  of 
elaborate  floral  or  geometrical  design, 
each  pattern  occupying  an  entire  quilt. 
The  general  effect  is  similar  to  what 
would  be  fbrmed  by  stitching  a  pat- 
tern on  a  fine  plain  cloth,  which  effect 
is  made  more  prominent  in  the  better 


used  reverses  from  the  centre  in  both 
directions,  warp  way  and  filling  way, 
as  in  Fig.  1. 

When  designing  for  this  type  it  is 
necessary  to  make  only  one-quarter  of 
the  figuring  design,  the  same  occupy- 
ing only  one-sixth  of  the  total  num- 
ber of  ends  in  the  warp,  or  one-half 
of  the  stitching  ends.      The    jacquard 


Figl 


tie-up  is  on  the  point  or  centre  draft 
principle,  /y  ,  which  doubles  the 
capacity  of  the  machine  as  compared 
to  a  straight  tie-up,  and  there  is  an 
attachment  on  the  loom  by  which  the 
cards  are  reversed  when  the  centre  of 
the   quilt  is  reached  filling  way. 

When  considering  the  plan  for  the 
card  cutter  only  one-half  of  the  stitch- 


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grades  of  goods  by  weaving  a  coarse 
plain  cloth  at  the  back  and  insert- 
ing wadding  between  the  face  and 
back  cloths.  When  wadding  is  used 
the  stitching  points  form  deep  furrows, 
which  indicate  the  pattern. 
One  of  the  principal  types  of  designs 


ing  ends  and  one-half  the  back  picks 
in  each  quilt  are  considered,  1.  e., 
when  there  are  two  face  picks  to  one 
back  pick. 

There  are  two  types  of  Marseilles 
weaves,  known  as  ordinary  Marseilles 
and  fast-back  Marseilles.    The    latter 


208 


A    COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY. 


type  is  used  for  almost  all  but  the 
lowest  qualities  of  goods. 

Design  Fig.  2  illustrates  the  princi- 
ple upon  which  an  ordinary  Marseilles 
weave  is  constructed,  in  which  the 
wadding   lies   between  the   face   cloth 

nannaB 
oamama 

DDDBDD 

DDaaaD 
amaaam 

BDDDDD 

Fig.  3. 

and  the  stitching,  also  termed  binder, 
figuring,  or  black,  ends.  These  ends 
when  not  required  to  be  raised  to  form 
the  pattern,  remain  at  the  back  of  the 
cloth  and  are  not  interlaced  with  the 


forcing  the  face  cloth  up.  or  embossinj 
it.  When  these  picks  are  inserted,  all 
the  face  ends  are  raised. 

Fig.  3  shows  the  motif  or  order  of 
stitching  in  Fig  2. 

FAST-BACK  WEAVES. 

A  fast-back  differs  from  an  ordinary 
Marseilles  weave  in  having  the  fine 
filling;  besides  interlacing  with  the 
face  ends,  it  also  interlaces  with  the 
stitching  ends  when  the  latter  are  at 
the  back  between  stitdhing  points.  In 
this  way  a  double  plain  cloth  is  form- 
ed, either  of  which  could  be  taken 
away  and  still  leave  a  perfect  single 
cloth. 

In  fast-back  Marseilles  quilts,  both 
face   and   back  weaves   are  plain,   the 


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filling.  On  this  account  the  distance, 
filling  way,  between  the  stitohing 
points  is  necessarily  limited. 

In  Fig.  2  the  ends  marked  S  are 
stitching  ends,  raised  over  the  face 
cloth  at  O  on  the  face  picks  and  at  # 
on  the  wadding  picks. 

The  picks  marked  W,  shown  in  type 
/,  indicate  wadding,  inserted  for 
the  purpose  of  adding  weight  and  of 


pattern  being  formed  by  the  stitching 
points. 

In  Fig.  4,  which  shows  a  fast-back 
weave  completed  to  form  the  motif 
Fig.  3,  ends  S  indicate  stitching  ends; 
W  indicate  wadding  picks,  and  B  in- 
dicate back  picks. 

Marks  /  show  all  face  ends  raised 
when  wadding  picks  are  inserted; 
stitching  ends  are  all  down  on  these 


A   COTTON  FABRICS   GLOSSARY. 


209 


same  picks  except  where  they  are  re- 
^luired  to  be  brought  through  the  face 
<;loth  to  form  a  stitching  point. 

When  the  back  picks  are  inserted, 
all  face  ends  are  raised,  as  indicated  at 
0  ,  and  one-half  of  the  stitching  ends, 
as  at  X,  forming  a  plain  weave  at  the 
back. 

The  ends  and  picks  not  marked  S, 
W  or  B  form  a  plain  weave  on  the 
face, 

Marks  O  show  where  stitching  ends 
are  brought  over  the  face  cloth,  each 
stitching  point  covering  two  face 
picks,  to  define  the  pattern. 

A  standard  make  of  cloth  made 
with  suitable  designs  on  the  principle 
shown  in  Fig.  4  is  as  follows:  Warp, 
40s  yarn  for  face,  20s  for  stitching,  ar- 
ranged 1  end  of  40s,  1  of  20s  and  1  of 
40s;  80  face  and  40  back  ends  per  inch, 
120  average  sley. 

Filling  60s  yarn  for  face  and  back, 
12s  yam  for  wadding,  picked  1  pick 
of  60s,  2  of  12s,  4  of  60s,  2  of  12s,  1  of 
•60s,  repeated;   200  picks  per  inch. 

The  reason  why  the  picks  are  ar- 
ranged as  here  shown  in  preference  to 
arranging  them  2  face,  2  wadding,  1 
back,  is  to  enable  an  even  number  of 
picks  of  one  count  of  filling  to  be  in- 
serted before  the  shuttles  are  changed. 
This  can  be  done  on  a  loom  having  a 
single  box  at  one  end  and  a  multiple 
box  at  the  other. 

When  a  pick  and  pick  loom  is  used, 
which  is  in  the  majority  of  cases,  4 
picks  instead  of  5  complete  the  round 
of  filling,  one  pick  of  6s  taking  the 
place  of  2  of  12s  for  the  wadding. 

The  yarns  in  both  warp  and  filling 
are  usually  arranged  2  face  to  1  back, 
making  a  fine  effect  on  the  face  and 
a  coarse  one  on  the  back;  this  in  addi- 
tion  to   the   wadding   picks. 

Two  warp  beams  are  required,  one 
of  which,  that  containing  the  stitching 
yarn,  is  more  heavily  weighted  than 
the  other  in  order  to  pull  down  the 
stitching  points  and  make  the  em- 
bossed effect  as  prominent  as  possible. 
This  warp  may  be  of  equal  or  of  dif- 
ferent counts  from  the  face  warp.  It 
is  usually  of  lower  counts. 

LOOM   REQUIRED. 

The  patterns  being  large  and  elab- 
orate, a  jacquard  head  is  of  necessity 
used,  although  not  of  such  a  large 
capacity   as   would   at  first   appear. 

The  cards  for  this  head  control  the 
action  of  the  stitching  ends  only. 

An  examination  of  Fig.  4  will  show 
that  only  2  ends  are  necessary  to 
complete  the  face  weave,  every  alter- 
nate face  end  working  similarly. 

The  face  ends,  two-thirds  of  the  en- 
tire  number,   are     worked  most     eco- 


nomically by  harness  shafts,  generally 
placed  at  the  rear  of  the  comber  board. 

These  shafts  are  worked  from  the 
head  in  a  positive  manner,  independ- 
ently of  the  pattern  cards. 

To  weave  a  quilt  like  the  one  under 
consideration,  say  90  inches  wide,  an 
1,800  hook  head  would  be  required, 
tied  up  point  draft. 

The  20s  warp  would  contain  3,600 
ends,   and    the  40s   warp     7,200     ends. 


« ■j,?' 


^v 


Sc<^i': 


Fig.    5. 

making  a  total  of  10,800  ends  in  the 
quilt. 

The  Crompton-Knowles  Loom  Co. 
builds  pick  and  pick  box  looms,  with 
rise  and  drop  jacquard  heads,  with 
figuring  capacities  up  to  1,800  hooks, 
containing  features  or  attachments 
specially  designed  for  weaving  these 
goods. 

On  this  type  of  loom  Fig.  4  could  be 
woven  with  8  instead  of  10  picks  in  a 
repeat,  the  action  being  as  follows: 
First  pick,  jacquard  rises,  carrying  the 
hooks  selected  for  stitching  by  pattern 
card;  all  face  warp  raised:  wadding 
filling.  Second  pick,  jacquard  up; 
one-half  of  face  warp  up  and  the  other 


210 


A    COTTON   FABRICS    GLOSSARY. 


half  down;  fi.ie  filling;  face  pick. 
Third  pick,  jacquard  up;  face  ends  re- 
verse positions;  fine  filling;  face  pick. 
Fourth,  pick,  jacquard  drops  and  then 
rises  again,  carrying  with  it  one-half 
every  alternate  one,  of  the  stitching 
ends;  aJl  face  warp  raised;  fine  filling; 
back  pick. 

ihe  fifth,  sixth  and  seventh  picks 
are  a  repetition  of  the  first,  second  and 
third,  with  perhaps  the  exception  that 
a  fresh  selection  of  stitching  ends 
have  been  raised. 

Eighth  pick,  jacquard  drops,  then 
rd;is€s  the  half  of  the  stitching  ends 
not  raised,  and  leaves  down  the  ends 
that  were  raised  on  the  fourth  pick; 
face  ends  all  raised;  fine  filling;  back 
pick. 

The  principal  advantage  claimed  for 
this  machine  over  others  is  that  the 
attachment  for  raising  the  stitching 
ends,  one-half  every  fourth  pick,  dis- 
penses with  one-half  of  the  number  of 
cards  ordinarily  required. 

Two  other  methods  are  used  for  ac- 
tuating the  stitching  ends  when  back 
picks  are  inserted.  First,  by  bringing 
jacquard  cards,  called  plain  cards,  into 
play  to  work  them;  this  method  re- 
quires double  the  number  of  cards 
required  for  the  same  pattern  on  the 
Crompton-Knowles  loom. 

Second,  by  using  2  comber  boards, 
drawing  the  odd  numbered  ends 
through  one  and  the  even  numbered 
ends  through  the  other,  and  raising 
each  board  alternately  every  fourth 
pick. 

When  this  plan  is  adopted  knots  are 
put  on  the  harness  oords  immediately 
above  the  comber  boards  so  that  when 
the  boards  rise  the  cords  and  ends 
are  also  raised. 

Light-weight  Marseilles  quilts  are 
known  as  Toilet  quilts.  They  vary  in 
weight  from  about  2.5  pounds  to  4 
pounds  per  quilt. 

Heavy-weight  quilts  vary  from  3.5 
pounds  in  narrow  quilts  to  6  pounds 
for  wide  goods. 

In  the  lightest  and  cheapest  grades 
of  fabrics  wadding  picks  are  omitted, 
but  when  made  on  the  fast-back  prin- 
ciple the  back  filling  is  considerably 
coarser  than  the  face  filling. 

The  processes  of  finishing  are  some- 
what similar  to  those  explained  in  the 
article  dealing  with  crochet  quilts. 

Carding   and  Spinning   Particulars. 

Marseilles  quilts  are  of  a  better 
quality  than  the  quilts  described  in 
the  precedina;  article,  but  are  made  in 
the  same  division  of  mills.  The  quilts 
under  description  require  four  differ- 
ent sizes  of  yarn, which  are  as  follows: 


40s  and  20s  for  warp  and  GOs  and  12s- 
for  the  filling.  For  12s  yarn  use  cotton 
of  from  %  to  1  inch  in  staple;  for  the 
20s  and  40s  use  1%  inch  stock  and  for 
60s  1^^  to  1%  inch  stock,  all  Ameri- 
can cotton.  For  the  filling  yarn  a  soft 
twist  is  used  and  it  is  generally  mule 
spun.  Mix  raw  stock  by  usual  method, 
of  course  the  different  staples  being, 
mixed  in  separate  bins.  Hand  mixing 
is  generally  used  on  this  class  of 
goods,  but  it  would  be 

OF  GREAT  ADVANTAGE 
to  use  a  bale  breaker  or  willow  to  pre- 
pare the  cotton  before  it  is  fed  to 
openers.  All  stocks  are  put  through 
an  opener  and  three  pi-ocesses  of  pick- 
ing. The  speed  of  the  beater  (rigid 
two-'bladed  style)  for  all  stocks  except 
the  7/s-inch  is  1,500  revolutions  per 
minute.  For  the  short  stock  the  speed 
should  be  increased  so  as  to  take  out 
the  extra  amount  of  dirt  which  is  al- 
ways in  short  staple  coitton.  The  to- 
tal weight  of  the  laps  at  the  front  for 
all  staples  should  be  40  pounds  or  a 
16-ounce  lap.  At  the  intermediate  the 
speed  of  the  beater  is  1,450  revolu- 
tions per  minute  for  all  stocks,  except 
the  short  stock,  where  speed  should 
be  increased.  The  total  weight  of  lap 
at  the  front  is  37  pounds  or  a  12-ounce 
lap  for  the  finer  yarns  and  a  10-ounce 
lap  for  the  stocks  for  12s  and  20s  yam. 
These  are  put  up  at 

THE  FINISHER  PICKER 
and  doubled  4  into  1.  At  this  picker 
the  cut  roving  is  mixed  in  in  propor- 
tions that  have  been  described  in  pre- 
vious articles.  The  speed  of  this  beat- 
er varies  from  1,400  to  1,500  revolu- 
tions per  minute,  according  to  the 
yiam  being  put  through,  the  higher 
speed  being  used  for  the  stock  for  the 
12s  yarn.  This  gives  the  stock  for  20s, 
40s  and  60s  about  42  beats  or  blows 
per  inch.  The  total  weight  of  the  lap 
at  the  front  is  as  follows:  35  pounds 
for  the  GOs  and  40syarnsand  39  pounds 
for  the  12s  and  20s  yarns,  or  a  I2V2- 
ounce  lap  for  1%-inch  stock,  and  14- 
ounce  lap  for  the  other  stocks.  A  va- 
riation of  one-half  pound  either  side 
of  standard  is  allowed  for  all  the 
stock,  except  the  %-inch  staple,  for 
which  a  variation  of  10  ounces  either 
side  of  staple  is  allowed.  Follow  in- 
structions about  oiling,  cleaning,  etc., 
that  have  been  given  in  previous  arti- 
cles. 

THE  CARDS 
should  be  fitted  up  with  34s  wire  fillet 
for  cylinder  and  36s  for  top  flats  and 
doffer.  The  draft  of  the  card  should 
be  as  follows:  110  for  60s  and  40s 
varus  and  not  over  100  for  the  shorter 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


211 


staples.  Speed  of  licker-in  is  about 
325  for  long  staple  and  375  for  %-inich 
s/tock.  a^he  speed  of  the  flats  for  the 
different  stocks  is  as  follows:  1  com- 
plete revolution  in  40  minutes  for  60s 
yam,  50  minutes  for  40s  yarn,  55  min- 
utes for  20s  yarn  and  60  minutes  for 
12s  yarn.  Strip  cards  three  times  a 
day,  except  for  the  %-in.  stock,  when 
an  extra  stripping  of  both  cylinder 
and  doffer  should  be  made,  although 
some  overseers  strip  only  three  times, 
while  others  strip  the  doffer  only  an 
extra  time.     Use  same 

SETTINGS 

for  card  as  were  give.i  in  the  last  ar- 
ticle except  for  the  %-inch  stock, 
when  those  for  indigo  prints  should 
be  used.  The  production  for  a 
week  of  60  hours  should  be  as  fol- 
lows: 1,000  pounds  for  %-inch  stock, 
800  pounds  for  the  20s  yarn,  750  for 
40s  yarn  and  700  pounds  for  60s  yarns. 
The  weight  of  the  sliver  is  65  grains 
for  all  staples. 

The  cotton  for  60s  is  combed  and  the 
instructions,  weights,  etc.,  given  in 
the  lasit  article  may  be  used  for  the 
40s  and  20s.  The  card  sliver  is  put 
through  three  processes  of  picking  and 
for  the  12s  only  two  processes  are 
used.  Either  metallic  or  leather  top 
rolls  may  be  used.  We  should  recom- 
mend metallic  rolls  for  the  coarser 
work. 

The  weight  per  yard  at  the  finisher 
drawing  should  be  70  grains  for  all 
staples  except  the  %-inch,  which 
should  be  SO  grains  per  yard.  The 
speed  of  the  front  roll  should  be  about 
400  pounds  for  coarse  work  and  350 
for  finer  staples. 

THE   DRAWING 

is  put  up  at  the  slubber  and  made  in- 
to .60  hank  for  20s,  40s  and  60s  yarns 
and  .40  hank  for  12s  yarn.  The  roving 
for  60s  and  40s  yarns  is  put  through 
three  processes  of  fly  frames  and  for 
20s  and  12s  yams  two  processes  are 
used.  The  hank  roving  for  each  yarn 
and  the  hank  roving  at  each  process  is 
as  follows:  For  60s  yarn,  first  inter- 
mediate, 1.50;  second,  4.50;  and  fine, 
12.50  hank.  For  40s  yarn  first  interme- 
diate, 1;  second,  3;  and  fine,  8  hank. 
For  20s  yam,  first  intermediate,  1.50; 
second,  4.  For  12s  yarn,  first  interme- 
diate 1,  and  second,  3  hank. 

THE  ROVING 

for  the  filling  yarns  is  generally  mule 
spun,  because  a  soft  twist  is  put  in, 
about  2.75  x  square  root  of  j^am  being 
used.  For  the  warp  yam  a  ring  frame 
is  used.  Of  course  if  this  fabric  is 
made  in   a     mill     having     only     ring 


frames  both  yarns  will  have  to  be  ring 
spun.  The  yarns  for  filling  after  be- 
ing spun  at  the  mule  are  all  ready  to 
be  woven  after  being  conditioned. 
For  spinninig  40s  on  a  ring  frame  use 
a  frame  with  2%-inch  gauge,  1%-inch 
diameter  of  ring,  6i/^-inch  length  of 
traverse,  28.46  twist  per  inch  and 
spindle  speed  of  10,000  revolutions  per 
minute;  for  20s  use  a  frame  with  2%- 
inch  gauge,  2  inches  diameter  of  ring, 
7  inches  length  of  traverse,  21.24  twist 
per  inch  and  spindle  speed  of  9,400 
revolutions  per  minute.  After  pass- 
ing the  ring  frame  the  yarn  is  spooled 
and  warped  and  the  40s  yarn  is  put 
through   the  slasher. 


BEDSPREiU)S -Satin  Quilts. 

Satin  quilts,  so  called,  are  distin- 
guished by  having  a  fine,  smooth 
ground,  from  which  the  pattern  ap- 
pears to  stand  up.  This  pattern  is 
made  with  coarse  filling  interlaced 
with  a  comparatively  fine  warp.  The 
latter  is  almost  lo'st  to  view  in  the 
coarse  filling,  unless  examined  close- 
ly. 

The  coarse  filling  floats  over  the 
ground  yarns  to  form  the  pattern,  and 
under  them  when  not  required  to  form 
the  Diattern,  being  bound  with 
binding  yarns,  so  called,  generally  in 
plain  cloth  order.  The  binding  warp 
is  all  down  when  the  ground  filling  is 
inserted. 

The  ground  yarns,  warp  and  filling, 
are  of  medium  counts. 

Fig.  1  illustrates  the  effect. 

The  term  satin  is  probably  used  on 
account  of  the  fine  appearance  of  the 
ground,  and  not  from  any  reference  to 
the  weave,  as  both  ground  and  figuring 
weaves  are   generally   plain. 

MINOR    VARIATIONS 

in  weave  have  been  made  from  time  to 
time,  and  patents  granted  for  them, 
with  the  result  that  these  goods  are 
now  sold  in  the  market  under  differ- 
ent names.  In  1868  a  patent  was 
granted  for  this  type  of  quilt,  known 
then  and  now  as  Mitcheline.  in  which 
a  bold  figure  is  generally  woven  on  a 
plain  ground,  the  figure  being  plain, 
twill  or  satin  as  desired. 

Other  names  now  used  for  practi- 
cally the  same  type  of  quilt  are  Duree, 
patent  satin,  embroidery  and  Kensing- 
ton. 


212 


A   COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY. 


Although  generally  woven  white, 
some 

VERY  GOOD  EFFECTS 
are  obtained  in  satin  quilts  by  using 
colored  ends  in  stripe  form     for     the 
ground,  as  in  Fig.  2. 

An  analysis  of  the  sample  illus- 
trated in  Fig.  2  shows  the  following 
da/ta:  Ground  warp,  30s;  binding  warp, 
20s;  ground  filling,  30s;  coarse  filling, 
3s. 

All  binding  ends  are  white  ends. 

The  ground  warp  yarns  are  ar- 
ranged 3  white,  3  blue,  alternately. 

There   are   C9   ends   per  inch,   46   of 


The  complete  weave  is  illustrated 
in  Fig.  4,  where  ends  B,  every  third 
end,  are  binding  ends;  picks  C  are 
coarse  picks.  Solid  squares  show 
where  these  ends  and  picks  interlace 
to  form  a  plain  weave.  Marks  x  show 
where  the  ground  ends  and  ground 
picks   weave  plain. 

Marks  .  (dots)  show  where  the 
ground  warp  is  raised  wh.en  coarse 
filling  is  iniserted,  leaving  the  latter 
at  the  back  as  not  being  required  to 
form  the  pattern. 

On  the  sajme  picks  in.  wMch  tliese 
marks  occur  it  may  be    noticed     that 


PiR.    1- 


30s  and  23  of  20s,  arranged  2  of  30s  and 
1  of  20s  alternately. 

The  warp  yarns  are  usually  arrang- 
ed 2  ground,  1  binder,  although  other 
arrangements  are  used.  The  filling  is 
arranged  2  of  ground  and  2  of  coarse, 
or  1  pick  of  each  alternately. 

The  principle  of  construction  of  sat- 
in quilt  weaves  is  illustrated  in  Figs. 
2,  3,  and  4. 

The  effect  seen  in  Fig.  2  is  like  the 
motive  Fig.  3,  each  end  of  which  rep- 
resents 18  ends  in  the  cloth;  each  pick 
In  Fig.  3  corresponds  to  8  picks  in  the 
cloth. 


some  of  the  ground  ends,  indicated  by 
^  =,  are  down,  allowing  the  coarse 
filling  to  float  over  them.  It  is  at 
these  places  tliat  the  latter  forms  the 
figure.  In  Fig.  4  these  marks  indi- 
cate filling.  All  other  marks  indi- 
cate warp. 

Two  beams  are  required.  The 
ground  beam  is  more  heavily  weighted 
than  the  other,  the  idea  being  to  al- 
low the  coarse  filling  to  show  as 
prominently  as  possible.and  tlhis  filling 
passing  first  to  one  side  of  the  cloth 
and  then  the  other,  and  lying  practi- 
cally flat,  not  being    bent    out    of    a 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


213 


straight  line  by  the  warp,  necessitates 
the  binder  warp  being  held  somewhat 
slack. 

The  goods  vary  in  weight  from 
about  3  to  5  pounds. 

LOOM   REQUIRED. 

Satin     quilts,     although     containing 
fewer  ends  than  Marseilles  quilts,  re- ' 
quire  a  much  larger  number  of  hooks, 
usually  from  2,400  to  3, GOO. 

Sometimes  it  is  necessary  to  use 
two  jacquard  heads  over  one  loom. 
The  loom  part  itself  is  somewhat  sim- 
ilar for  both     types     of     quilts.     Two 


Fig.    2. 

shuttles  are  used,  one  for  each  count 
of  filling,  picking  1  and  1  or  2  and  2 
alternately  as  required. 

The  Crompton-Knowles  Loom  Co. 
build  a  jacquard  head  designed  espe- 
cially for  weaving  satin  quilts.  It  is 
built  straight-lift,  or  rise-aad-drop  as 
desired. 

With  this  machine  the  ground 
picks  are  woven  plain,  satin,  or  twill 
as  desired,  without  the  action  of  the 
oards  or  cylinder.  This  saves  labor 
in  making  the  design  and  cutting  the 
cards  because  in  making  a  design  the 
figure  only  need  be  dealt  with.  The 
binder  ends,  working  plain  all  the 
time  with  the  coarse  picks,  may  be 
drawn  through  harness  shafts  and 
worked  from  the  head,  irrespective  of 


the  cards,  as  in  Marseilles  weaving. 
The  cards  actually  need  actuate 
only  the  ground  ends  on  the  coarse 
picks,  the  remainder  of  the  ends  and 
picks  being  actuated  in  a  positive 
manner  by  the  head. 

FINISHING. 

The  finishing  of  white  quilts  is 
about  the  same  for  all  types,  with  the 
exception  that  some  need  more  blue 
and  starch  than  others.  Briefly,  they 
are  bleached,  washed  to  remove  the 
acid,  run  through  blue  mangle, 
starched,  dried,  cut,  hemmed,  or 
fringed,  inspected,  folded,  ticketed, 
bundled  and  packed. 

In  some  mills  it  is  the  custom  to 
weave  the  number  of  the  loom  on  each 
quilt  as  it  is  being  woven,  so  that  if 
any  defect  shows  up  in  any  of  the  sub- 
sequent processes  it  can  be  readily 
traced  to  its  source. 


Carding  and  Spinning   Particulars. 

Satin   quilts  are  made  in  the   same 
division  of  mills  as     the     fabric     de- 


□■DBOa 
GDOBBB 
BBBDGO 

BDBaBa 

BBBOOD 


Fig.   3. 

scribed  in  the  last  article.  The  cotton 
used  is  similar.  The  make-up  of  satin 
quilts  differs  in  different  mills  and  even 
in  the  same  mill  different  grades  of 
this  fabric  are  made.  The  quilt  that 
has  been  analyzed  for  this  article  is 
made  up  of  the  following  couUs  of 
yarns:  30s  and  20s  warp  yarn  and  3s 
and  30s  filling  yam.  As  stated  above, 
all  the  yarns  except  the  3s  would  be 
made  up  of  cotton  of  1%  to  1  5-16  inch 
staple.  The  3s  would  be  made  from  a 
shorter  staple,  say  %  to  %  inch,  and 
mixed  with  waste,  as  will  be  shown 
later. 

THE    MIXING. 

The  cotton  for  the  warp  and  filling, 
except  the  3s,  is  mixed  in  the  usual 
manner  and  after  being  allowed  to 
stand  as  long  as  possible  (in  order 
that  it  may  dry  out),  the  good  waste 
from  the  machines  up  to  the  slubber, 
which  is  collected  at  regular  intervals, 
is  mixed  in  at  this  point,  care  being 
used  to  break  up  sliver  waste  into 
small  lengths  and  to  spread  the  sliver 
throughout  the  entire  mixing,  so  that 
it  will  not  all  be  fed  to  the  feeder  at 
o?ce.  In  some  mills  a  very  small  per- 
centage of  comber  waste  is  mixed  in 


214 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


at  this  point,  but  it  is  not  the  general 
custom  to  use  a  mixture  of  this  Ivind. 
For  the  3s  yarn  the  mixing  is  made 
up  of  a  certain  per  cent  of  waste,  the 
exact  percentage  depending  upon  the 
mill  making  the  quilts;  it  may  be  from 
25  to  60  per  cent.  Generally  speaking, 
card  and  comber  waste  is  used. 

PICKING. 

The  finer  mixture  is  put  through  an 
opener  and  three  processes  of  picking, 
the  speeds  and  other  particulars  be- 
ing the  same  as  given  in  our  last  arti- 
cle for  the  number  yarn.  For  the  coars- 
er yarn  only  two   processes  of     pick- 


would  be  the  same  as  that  used  for 
bedspreads  as  given  in  the  last  arti- 
cle. 

The  other  particulars  given  in  that 
article  may  also  be  used.  Care  should 
be  taken  to  see  that  the  wire  fillet  on 
the  top  flats  does  not  become  choked 
up  with  the  fly.  In  cards  that  have' 
been  in  use  for  some  time  it  is  the  rule 
rather  than  the  exception  to  find  fly 
at  this  point.  Sometimes  an  adjust- 
ment of  the  brush  up  may  entirely 
remedy  the  defect,  but  if  not  the  fly 
has  to  be  picked  out  by  hand;  or  a 
better  way  is  to  put  the  stripping 
brush  on  the  grinding     brackets     and 


ing  are  used,  the  speed  of  the  beater 
at  the  breaker  being  1,500  revolutions 
per  minute,  and  at  the  finisher  being 
1,400  revolutions  per  minute.  The  to- 
tal weight  of  the  lap  at  the  breaker 
is  40  pounds  and  at  the  fiaisher  39 
pounds,  or  a  16-ounce  lap  at  breaker 
and  a  15-ounce  lap  at  fimsher.  A  va- 
riation of  12  ounces  either  side  of 
standard  weight  is  allowed  for  these 
laps.  Look  out  to  keep  your  drafts 
so  regulated  that  they  will  not  cause 
the  laps  to  split  and  lick.  These  laps 
are  next  put  up 

AT    THE    CARD 

and  as  it  is  the  custom  to  use  but 
one  count  of  wire  fillet  in  a  mill,  ,the 
count   used  for   this  style     of     quilts 


•drive  it  at  a  slow  rate  of  speed  until 
the  flats  have  made  either  two  or 
three   complete  revolutions. 

ANOTHER  POINT 
to  look  out  for  is  to  see  that  the 
top  flats  are  ground  perfectly  even. 
A  great  many  overseers,  if  they  look 
at  the  flats  sharply,  will  be  surprised 
to  see  that  they  are  grinding  more  off 
of  the  back  of  the  fiat  than  at  the 
front.  This  may  not  be  the  grinder's 
fault,  but  may  be  due  to  a  defective 
grinding  device,  the  main  point  being 
that  they  are  not  grinding  in  the 
same  manner  as  they  are  working.  It 
is  just  as  well  to  grind  the  flats  at 
least  once  a  year  on  a  fiat  grinding 
machine,  the  flats  having  to  be  taken 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


215 


oft"  to  do  this;  which  of  course  means 
the  loss  of  production  for  that  card 
for  a  certain  length  of  time,  but  it  will 
mean  a  better  quality  of  sliver,  which 
will  more  than  oftset  the  former,  as 
a  great  deal  closer  settings  may  be 
used. 

THE  PRODUCTION 

for  a  week  of  60  hours  for  all  counts 
of  yarn  (in  this  article)  except  the 
3s  should  be  S25  pounds  and  for  the 
coarse  yarn  950  pounds.  The  weight 
of  the  card  sliver  is  65  grains  for  all 
stocks.  The  yarn  is  next  put  through 
three  processes  of  drawing  for  the 
finer  counts  and  two  processes  for  the 
coarse  yarn.  The  top  rolls  used  may 
be  either  leather  covered  or  metallic. 
The  advantages  of  both  have  been  pre- 
viously stated.  The  speed  of  the  front 
rolls  for  the  longer  staple  cotton  is  400 
revolutions  per  minute,  and  for  the 
short  staple425,if oonveniB'.it;  oritmay 
be  run  on  the  same  line  of  machines 
as  the  longer  staple  cotton,  when  the 
speed  of  the  front  roll  would  have  to 
be  the  same.  The  weig'ht  of  the  sliver 
for  the  30s  and  20s  yarn  should  be  70 
grains  per  yard  and  for  the  3s,  80  or  85 
grains  per  yard.  The  sliver  is  put 
through  the  slubber  and  made  into  .60 
hank  roving  for  fine  counts  and  .40 
hank  roving  for  the  coarser  count. 
The  roving  for  the  30s  is  put  through 
two   processes  of 

FLY  FRAME, 

the  hank  roving  being  as  follows:  Two 
hank  for  first  intermediate  and  6.25 
hank  for  the  next  process;  for  the  20s 
the  hank  roving  would  be  just  the 
same  at  the  first  intermediate,  but  4.50 
at  the  last  process.  For  the  3s  the  rov- 
ing would  be  put  through  only  one 
more  process,  where  it  would  be  made 
into  1  hank  roving.  It  is  the  general 
custom  to  spin  the  yarn  for  this  class 
of  fabric  on  mules  on  account  of  the 
soft  twist  being  put  into  it,  but  in 
some  cases  the  yarn  is  spun  on  the 
ring  frame.  The  particulars  given  in 
previous  articles  for  20s  and  30s  yarn 
may  be  used,  with  the  exception  of  the 
twist,  which  should  be  less  than  that 
givei.  If  mule  spun,  the  standard  for 
twist  used  should  be  2.75  times  the 
square  root  of  the  count.  If  the  3s  are 
spun  on  a  ring  frame,  a  frame  should 
be  used  with  a  2%-inch  gauge,  1% 
Inch  diameter  ring,  6y2-inch  trav- 
erse. After  passing  through  the  ring 
frame  the  warp  yarn  is  put  through 
the  spooler  and  warper  and  theit 
through  the  slasher,  and  finally  run  up- 
on a  beam  which  has  the  required 
number  of  ends  to  make  the  quilt. 


Dyeing    Particulars. 

SKY   BLUE   FOR   STRIPES. 
One  per  cent  diamine  sky  blue  F  F; 
2  per  cent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's salt. 

PINK. 
One-half  per  cent  diamine  rose  B  D; 
2  per  cent  sal  soda;   20  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's salt. 

LIGHT  YELLOW. 
One  per  cent  chromine  yellow  G;   2 
per  cent  sal   soda;    20  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's salt. 

LIGHT   BROWN. 
One-half      per      cent      naphtamine 
brown  N;  %  per  cent  naphtamine  yel- 
low N  N;  2  per  cent  sal  soda;  20    per 
cent  Glauber's  salt. 
RED. 
Four  per  cent  benzo  fast  red  4  B;  30 
per  cent  Glauber's;   2  per  cent  sal  so- 
da. 

LIGHT  SLATE. 
One  per  cent  diamine  black  B  H;   2 
ounces   diamine   fast  yellow   B;    2   per 
cent  sal  soda;   20  per    cent     Glauber's 
salt. 

LIGHT    GREEN. 

One  per  cent  diamine  sky  blue  F  F; 
Wi  per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow  F  F; 
2  per  cent  sal  sodd,  20  per  cent  ijfiau- 
ber's  salt;  aftertreat  with  2  per  cent 
sulphate  of  coipper. 

PEARL. 

One-quarter  per  cent  diamine  dark 
blue  B;  14,  ounce  diamine  fast  yellow 
B;  2  per  cent  sal  soda;  15  per  cent 
Glauber's  salt;  aftertreat  with  V2  per 
cent  bichrome;  1/2  per  cent  sulphate  of 
copper. 

-*  »  » 


RMNCLOTH. 


Raincloth,  commonly  so-called,  has 
no  particular  style  of  construction  or 
character  of  weave,  the  name  being 
acquired  from  the  fact  that  the  fab- 
ric is  waterproofed  during  the  finish- 
ing process. 

The  most  popular  and  best  grades 
of  raincloth  may  be  defined  as  closely 
woven,  smooth-face  fabrics,made  with 
twist  warp,  that  is,  cotton  and  wool, 
of  cotton  and  worsted  twisted 
together,  and  with  all  worsted  or  wool 
filling.  The  weave  used  for  this  fab- 
ric is  what  may  be  termed  a  five-har- 
ness satin  '■ — :,  ,  see  Fig.  1.  This  fab- 
ric, as  the  name  implies,  is  exclusively 


2ic,  A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 

made  up  into  raiacoats  or  Cravenettes,  loom,  speed  from  14U  to  150  picks  per 
worn  principally  as  a  covering  in  minute,  may  be  used;  tor  the  five-har- 
damp  or  rainy  weather.  The  fabric,  ness  satin  weave  the  warp  is  usually 
after  it  is  finished,  is  impervious  to  drawn  in  on  10  harnesses  straight 
^.^j.gj.  -  draw,  so  as  not  to  overcrowd  the  hed- 
Raincloth  is  a  piece  dyed  fabric.  Such  dies  and  prevent  chafing  of  the  warp; 
shades  as  drabs,  fawns,  light  and  dark  for  fancy  raincloth  the  Knowles  box, 
browns  and  black  are  the  prevailing  pick  and  pick  loom  is  the  one  best 
colors.  The  warp  yarn,  as  already  suited  for  these  fabrics, 
mentioned,  is  a  two-ply  thread,  com-  FINISHING, 
posed  of  a  ver>'  fine  cotton  thread  and  -pj^g  better  quality  of  raincloth  re- 
coarser  count  of  worsted  or  woolen  quires  considerable  attention  in  the 
thread.  The  fabric  is  given  a  wool  finishing  process.  After  the  fabric 
dye.  The  cotton  does  not  take  on  col-  comes  from  the  loom,  it  is  dyed,  the 
or.  The  finished  fabric  presents  what  ^.^qj  ^j.  ^.Qj-sted  only  taking  color,  the 
is  termed  a  powdered  effect,  that  is,  cotton  in  the  warp  yarn  remaining 
little  specks  of  white  show  over  the  ^^^ite.  Twist  yarn  is  more  or  less  ir- 
entire  surface  of  the  fabric.  regular,  that  is,  the  cotton  may  be 
The  fabric  may  be  elaborated  by  more  prominent  in  some  places  than 
means  of  mercerized  cotton  threads  j^  others;  this  requires  the  fabric  to 
being  inserted  at  regular  intervals  in  ^^  examined  and  where  the  cotton  is 

found  to  be  too  prominent,  it  is  dark- 

r!DiS5"i!  ened  or  inked  in  conformity  with  the 

S*bSE!"»!H    1  ground   color,  after  which  follows  the 

■=J="?~"I5    .  waterproofing  process.      This  consists 

SS^5*iS=!"   ^  °^  immersing  the  fabric  in  a  combina- 

■-■"■■^■'«  ^^^^    °^    ingredients,    such    as    greasy 

"~  Fig.  1.  ~  matters  of  all  natures,  resin,  paraffin, 

tannic  acid,  drying  oils,   salts  of  alu- 

cQ-z--=cnB  mina,    alums   and    carbonate   of   mag- 

Hj=-5=S|iR  nesia.     After    it    is    waterproofed,    the 

R=---,5-5^  fabric  is  pressed,  made  up  into  rolls, 

cbzji=i=3z  then  made  up  into   garments. 

rzH~-3:rzr::  

Fig   2.    ^  Carding  and  Spinning   Particulars. 

Drawing-in  Draft.  As  has  been  Stated  in  the  analysis 

of  raincloth  given  above,  the  material 

both  warp  and  filling,  producing  check  ^^^^  j^  ^j^g  construction  of  the  yarns 

or  plaid   effects,  or  by   using  a   given  jg  ^.^^^  ^nd  cotton.    As  in  the  carding 

number  of  solid  worsted  threads  and  ^nd  spinning  particulars  only  the  con- 

a  given   number  of  twist   threads   ar-  struction  of  the  cotton  varn  has  been 

ranged   in   some  order      producing     a  described  we  wall  follow  the  usual  cus- 

stripe   effect.     The   fabric   is   also   va-  ^q^^  ^nd  give  the  processes,  with  the 

Tied  as  regards  quality,  in  so  far  that  particulars   at     each     stage,     through 

it  is  made  with  coarser  counts  of  yam,  ^.^ich  the  cotton  passes  to  produce  the 

and  less  ends  and  picks  per  inch;   m  finished  yarn.     The  count  of  the  cot- 

the  cheaper  qualities  the  plain  weave  ^^^   ^.^^^   described   for  this   fabric   is 

and     ^     twill  are  much  in  evidence.  lOOs.  This  may  be  made  from  either  a 

Analysis  follows  of  a  first-class  fab-  fine,   long-stapled   Egj-ptian   cotton   or 

pjg.  from  a  Sea  Island  cotton  of  a  staple 

Width  of  warp  in  reed,    60     inches;  of  1%  to  1%  inches,  the  latter  being 

width  of  fabric  finished.     56     inches;  the  one  most  generally  used.  The  bales 

ends  per  inch  in  reed,     84;     ends     in  of  cotton  are  first  stapled  and  graded 

warp    5  040  ^^^  ^^^   those     not     up     to     standard 

21x4  reed*  length   and   quality   are  put  one   side, 

Take-up  of  warp  during  weaving,  8  while  the  rest  are  mixed  by  hand. 

per  cent.  A  LARGE  MIXING 

Weight  per  yard  finished,  10  ounces.  jg  made  so  that  there  will  be  as  few 

Warp  yam     2-50s     worsted     counts,  changes  as  possible  in  the  yarn  made 

composed  1  end  of  l-30s  worsted,  1  end  fj-om  the  different  batches.     It  will  be 

1-lOOs  cotton.  understood   that  it   is  often   necessary 

Pilling,   80  picks  per  inch  in   loom,  ^^  change  certain  partsof  different  ma- 

l-35s  worsted  yam.  chines  for  almost  every  mixing  so  as 

LOOM  REQUIRED.  to  suit  some  peculiarity  of  the  mixing 

For  plain  raincloth,  that  is,  a    one-  being  made.     These   changes   are   gen- 
filling  fabric,  a  broad  Knowles  dobbyerally   slight   and   many     times     only 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GL,OSSARY. 


217 


mean  the  changes  of  certain  speeds  or 
settings,  but  whe:i  running  the  dif- 
ferent mixings  the  first  lot  run 
through  should  be  carefully  watched 
to  see  that  it  compares  exactly  with 
the  foregoing  mixture. 

SEA   ISLAND   COTTON 

of  a  long  staple  is  put  through  only 
two  processes  of  picking  and  an  open- 
er. Some  overseers  put  the  cotton 
through  only  one  process.  The  beater 
used  is  generally  of  a  two-bladed  rigid 
type  and  if  two  processes  are  used  the 
speed  of  the  breaker  is  1,300  revolu- 
tions per  minute  and  the  speed  of  the 
second,  1,100  revolutions  per  minute. 
As  will  be  seen,  this  speed  is  reduced 
considerably  from  that  of  the  other 
cottons  that  have  been  previously  de- 
scribed and  the  reason  is  that  a  great- 
er speed  of  the  beater  puts  in  neps, 
which,  as  every  one  knows,  is  the  one 
thing  to  be  most  feared,  because  dirt 
can  be  taken  out,  but  it  is  almost  im- 
possible to  take  out  neps.  To  be  sure, 
a  greater  portion  of  them  are  taken 
out,  but  it  means  much  extra  work 
and  care  to  do  it,  so  it  is  always  best 
to  see  that  none  are  put  in. 
The  beats  per  inch  given  to  the 
cotton  as  it  is  passing  through  the 
finisher  picker  are  29.  The  total  weight 
of  the  finished  lap  is  28  i>ounds  or  a 
9% -ounce  lap. 
These  laps  are  put  up 

AT  THE  CARD. 

The  settings  used  for  this  card  should 
be  close,  a  12-l,000ths-inch  gauge  be- 
ing used  to  set  the  flats  from  the  cylin- 
der and  a  5-l,000ths-inch  gauge  to  set 
the  doffer  from  the  cylinder.  The  wire 
fillet  used  should  be  No.  34s  for  cylin- 
der and  3Gs  for  doffer  and  flats.  The 
card  should  have  as  many  working  as 
possible  and  the  speed  should  be  one 
complete  revolution  every  35  minutes. 
The  draft  of  the  card  should  never  be 
less  than  130  and  some  overseers  in- 
crease this  to  175  or  180  on  this  class 
of  work.  The  stripping  should  be 
done  three  times  a  day  and  grinding 
as  usual.  The  card  should  be  kept 
unusually  free  from  fly  and  dirt  and 
should  produce  from  250  to  300  pounds 
per  week  of  60  hours.  The  weight  of 
the  sliver  should  be  40  grains  per 
yard.  Another  part  of  the  machine 
that  is  changed  differently  from  all 
other  stock  is  the  speed  of  the  licker- 
in.  This  should  be  a  great  deal  less 
than  that  used  for  other  stocks  for  the 
same  reason  as  given  for  the  low  speed 
of  the  beater.  The  speed  of  the  licker- 
in  should  be  dropped  from  350  to  40(* 
revolutions  per  minute  (the  usual 
speed)   to  about  275     revolutions     per 


minute.     The      card      sliver      is      next 
combed.     The  differe:it 

COMBING  PROCESSES 
vary,  but  those  in  most  general  use 
are  as  follows:  sliver  lap  machine, 
ribbon  lap  machine  and  comber.  The 
width  of  the  lap  is  another  part  that 
has  also  been  changed  so  that  now  it 
is  10%  laches,  whereas  formerly  an 
S%-inch  lap  was  almost  universal.  The 
following  particulars  will  be  given  for 
an  8%-inch  lap;  when  a  IQi/^-inch  lap 
is  used  the  proper  weights  may  be 
calculated  by  proportion:  The  dou- 
blings at  the  sliver  lap  are  14  for  an 
S%-inch  lap  and  20  for  a  10y2-inch  lap. 
The  weight  of  a  yard  of  lap  at  the 
front  is  280  grains.  These  are  put  up 
at  the  ribbon  lap  machine  and  doubled 
G  into  1.  The  weight  of  a  yard  of  lap 
at  the  front  of  this  machine  is  265 
grains.  The  laps  are  put  up  at  the 
comber  and  doubled  according  to  the 
number  of  heads  that  the. comber  con- 
tains; formerly  it  was  the  custom  to 
have  six  heads,  but  within  the  last 
few  years  a  comber  of  eight  heads  is 
used.     The 

PERCENTAGE  OF  WASTE 
taken  out  should  be  not  less  than  20 
for  this  class  of  stock  and  the  trim- 
mings and  settings  should  be  as  fol- 
lows: Combing  starts  at  5.  Nippers 
open  at  3^/2,  close  at  9%.  Lifters  down 
at  6%  and  up  at  S%  to  914.  Top  combs 
down  at  5.  Feed  roll  commences  to 
move  forward  at  514.  The  start  of  the 
feed  roll  to  a  certain  degree  controls 
the  percentage  of  waste  taken  out  and 
is  the  part  that  is  changed  after  the 
settings  of  the  comber  have  been  made. 
A  later  feeding  means  an  increased 
amount  of  waste.  The  detaching  roll 
moves  forward  at  5%.  There  is  a  great 
deal  of  difference  in  settings,  of  the  top 
combs  to  segment  and  cushion  plate 
to  needles  or  cylinder,  among  comb- 
er men,  but  good  settings  even  for  this 
grade  of  stock  are  with  an  18  gauge 
from  cushion  plate  to  half  lap  and  a  21 
gauge  from  top  comb  to  segment. 
Either  a  double  or  single  row  of 
needles  in  top  comb  may  be  used,  both 
having  their  advantages  and  disad- 
vantages. The  weight  of  the  sliver 
should  be  about  35  grains  per  yard. 
The  sliver  is  next  put  through  two 
processes  of 

DRAWING  FRAMES, 
the  weight  of  the  drawing  at  the  fin- 
isher drawing  being  CO  grains  per 
yard.  Leather  covered  top  rolls  are 
generally  used  for  this  stock  and 
should  be  kept  in  perfect  shape  and 
frequently  varnishe<3,  as  should  the 
leather  detaching  rolls  of  the  comber 


218 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


and  the  top  rolls  of  the  sliver  lap  and 
ribbon  lap  machines.  Several  good 
recipes  for  varnish  have  been  given 
in  previous  articles,  one  of  which  may 
be  used.  The  sliver  is  put  through 
the  slubber  and  made  into  .80  hank 
roving.  The  front  top  rolls  of  this 
machine  are  generally  varnished  and 
some  mills  use  rolls  of  a  larger  diame- 
ter, claiming  less  licking.  The  twist 
put  in  is  the  square  root  of  hank  be- 
ing made.  The  slubber  roving  is  next 
put  through  three  processes*  of  fly 
frames,  the  hank  roving  at  each  proc- 
ess being  as  follows:  First  interme- 
diate, 2.25;  at  the  second  intermediate, 
5,  and  at  the  jack  frames,  20  hank.  The 
standard  twist  per  inch  is  the  square 
root  of  hank  times  1.10  at  first  and 
second  intermediates  and  1.20  at  fineor 
jack  frames.  Care  should  be  taken 
to  see  that  the  roving  is  properly  laid 
on  the  bobbin  and  that  the  bobbin, 
when  full,  is  properly  built;  also  that 
the  settings  of  the  rolls  and  traverse 
are  correct.  This  yam  is  either  mule 
or  ring  spun.  If  ring  spun  the  partic- 
ulars for  a  fraime  making  100s  yarn 
are  as  follows:  Gauge  of  frame,  2% 
inches;  diameter  of  ring,  1%  inches; 
length  of  traverse,  5  inches;  speed  of 
spindles,  9,400  revolutions  per  minute. 
This  yarn  is  then  spooled  and  then  is 
in  shape  to  be  twisted  with  the  worst- 
ed yarn. 


Dyeing    Particulars — Piece    Dyeing. 

LIGHT  OLIVE  BROWN. 

One-half  per  cent  anthracene  acid 
brown  G;  6  ounces  anthr.acene  blue  C; 
2  per  cent  sulphuric  acid;  aftertreated 
with  1  per  cent  chrome. 

MEDIUM    BROWN. 

One  and  one-half  per  cent  anthra- 
cene chrome  brown  D;  Y2  per  cent  an- 
thracene yellow  B  N;  %  per  cent  an- 
thracene acid  blue  D;  2%  per  cent  sul- 
phuric acid;  aftertreat  with  2  per  cent 
chrome. 

NAVY  BLUE. 

Four  per  cent  anthracene  acid  blue 
D;  %  per  cent  anthracene  chrome  vio- 
let B;  3  per  cent  sulphuric  acid;  after- 
treat  with  %  per  cent  chrome. 

SLATE. 

One-half  per  cent  anthracene  blue  C ; 
%  per  cent  anthracene  chrome  brown 
D;  1  per  cent  sulphuric  acid;  after- 
treat  with  %  per  cent  chrome. 

OLIVE. 

One   and  one-half  per  cent  anthra- 
cene acid  brown  G;   %     per  cent     an- 


thracene brown;  1^  per  cent  anthra- 
cene yellow  B  N;  1  per  cent  sulphuric 
acid;  aftertreat  with  1  per  cent 
chrome. 

DRAB. 

Six  ounces  anthracene  blue  C;  %  per 
cent  anthracene  chrome  brown  D;  1 
per  cent  sulphuric  acid;  aftertreat  with 
1  per  cent  chrome. 

BLACK. 

Six  per  cent  anthracene  chrome 
black  F  E;  4  per  cent  acetic  acid;  2 
per  cent  sulphuric  acid;  aftertreat 
with  2  per  cent  chrome. 

DARK  BROWN. 

One  per  cent  anthracene  yellow  B 
N;  3  per  cent  a.ithracene  chrome 
brown  D;  li/^  per  cent  anthracene  acid 
blue  D;  3  per  cent  sulphuric  acid;  2^/^ 
per  cent  chrome. 

DARK    GREEN 

Three  per  cent  anthracene  yellow 
B  N;  1  per  cent  anthracene  chrome 
brown  D;  3  per  cent  anthracene  blue 
C;  3  per  cent  sulphuric  acid;  after- 
treat  with  3  per  cent  chrome. 


COTTON  CASSIMERE. 


Cassimere  was  originally  understood 
to  mean  a  woolen  cloth  used  for  men's 
wear.  This  fabric  differs  from  casti- 
mere  in  so  far  as  the  latter  is  finer 
and  used  principally  for  ladies'  dress 
goods.  Cashmeres  are  usually  in  solid 
colors  only,  and  were  originally  made 
in  Cashmere  and  nearnby  regions  from 
yam  hand-spun  from  the  flossy  wool 
of  the  Casihmere  goat. 

"About  the  year  1816,  a  small  herd 
was  imported  into  France  with  the 
view  to  acclimatize  them  and  breed 
them  for  the  sake  of  their  wool,  but 
the  enterprise  failed.'^  The  foregoing 
facts  will  suggest  that  this  fabric  is 
quite  costly,  consequently  cheaper 
grades,  cotton  and  wool  imitations, 
have  a  liberal  demand. 

In  varying  the  quality  of  a  fabric, 
the  manufacturers  have  two  objects  In 
view:  first,  to  reduce  the  cost;  second, 
to  retain  the  same  general  appearance. 
It  then  follows  that  the  change  effect- 
ed is  of  degree,  notof  kind,consequent- 
ly  the  variations  usually  consist  in 
changing  the  number  of  ends  and 
picks  per  inch,  or  substituting  a  high.- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


219 


«r  or  lower  grade  of  yarn  as  the  case 
•maj'^  be. 

ANALYSIS. 


—     XXX 

25    1—1—1 

FACE   WARH. 

3 

ends 

Black. 

7 

—    ] 

;  Black  and  drab. 

—    ] 

^  Black  and   white 

2 

— 

Black. 

1 

— 

Black  and  white. 

1 

— 

Black. 

1 

— 

Black  and  white. 

2 

— 

Black. 

7 

—    1 

Black   and   drab. 

—    1  Black  and   white. 

1 

— 

Black. 

x2 

— 

Black. 

xl 

28 

Bleach. 

BACK   WARP. 

1 

Green     x. 

2 

Black. 

Drab. 

Black. 

Drab. 

Black. 

Drab. 

Black. 

Drab. 

Black. 

Drab. 

Black. 

Drab. 

Black. 
Drab. 

Black. 
Drab. 

Black. 

2S 
X  Alternate  garnet. 


PACK   WARP. 
11  ends  Black    2/30. 
8  ends  Black  and  drab  2/30. 
8  ends  Black  and  white  20/60 
1  end     Bleach   2/40. 


BACK   WARP. 
19  ends  Black  2/30. 
8  ends  Drab  2/30. 
1  end     Green  2/30. 


ENDS  IN  FACE  WARP. 
726  ends  Black. 
528  ends  Black  and   drab. 
52S  ends  Black  and  white 

66  ends  Bleach. 

1.848 

40  ends  selvedge. 

1.888 

ENDS  I.V  BACK  WARP. 
1.254  ends  Black. 
528  ends  Drab. 
33  ends  Green. 
33  ends  Garnet. 

1,848 

40  ends  selvedge. 

Pilling  60  picks'  per   inch.    2/263   black   cotton 

Width  Of  warp  in  reed,  34  inches. 
Width  of  fabric finished,31  inches-  out- 
side ends  per  inch,  111;  500x8  reed- 
ends  in  face  warp,  1,848;  20  ends  2-30s 
white  selvedge;  total  ends  in  face  warp, 
1,888;  ends  in  back  warp,  1,848;  20 
ends  2-30s  white  selvedge;  total  'ends 
in  back  warp,  1,888;   total  ends  in  face 


and  back  warp,  3,776;  take-up  of  face 
warp  during  weaving,  10  per  cent; 
take-up  of  warp  during  weaving' 
6  per  cent.  ' 

Weight  of  fabric  per  yard  from  loom 
7.85  ounces.  Weight  of  fabric  per  yard 
finished,  7  ounces. 

When  both  warp  and  fillinig  are 
changed  from  wool  to  cotton,  as  with 
the  cassimere  under  consideration,  the 
general  appearance  may  be  retaiaed 
but  the  feel  or  handle  of  the  fabric  will 
be  entirely  different— so  much  so  that 
it  will  be  apparent  to  the  buyer. 

When  such  radical  changes  are 
made  in  fabrics  as  to  substitute  cot- 
ton for  woo'l,  it  oan  no  longer  be  sold 
under  the  same  name;  it  therefore  fol- 
lows that  the  fabric  be  designated,  as, 
for   instance,   cotton   cassimere. 

In  making  these  cheaper  grade  fab- 
rics the  methods  of  manufacturing  are 


cgnnBnBDDCDDBaBn 
Sqjt^nnnaoBDBLDa 
■nBDagaGB-sBDnaan 

nqnpBa«aa.zianBD«a 

■^■nnnDDBn»coDDa 

■^□□□□■SBanDDDBD 

i-  Jag»DBnaDDaHS3Ba 
□  _,Bg«nnnnaBnponD 
■pjSSSannBSBDnDnn 
■agmpBaBaacnDBa 

DgBaaaaaDDBSBGDa 
■s^BgaDnoBDBnDDaa 
maaDDammmnnaaama 


nODDOBDa 
I^DBDDDDn 

onnnoDDB 
annnBaDD 
nBananan 
DnnnannB 
rDDBnnna 
BncnDDDa 


I'iK.  1. 


Simplified  as  much  as  possible,  chiefly 
because  the  profit  will  not  admit  of 
any  unnecessary  expense.  No  intricate 
weaves  are  used;  such  weaves  as  ~ 
twill,  :^  basket  weave  and  common 
rib  weave  are  principally  used  for  op- 
erating face  warp.  These  fabrics  are 
.generally  made  with  two  warps.  The 
back  warp  interlaces  with  filling  on 
the  S-harness  satin  order 

(See  Fig.  1.)  These  fabrics  are 
confined  to  16  harness,  8  harness 
for  face  warp  and  8  for  back 
warp;  the  warp  is  drawn  in  one  end 
face,  and  one  end  back,  the  first  end 
of  face  warp  on  the  first  harness,  the 
first  end  of  back  warp  on  second  har- 
ness. (See  draft,  Fig.  2;  Fig.  3,  chain 
ai-aft.) 

The   back  warp  for  these  fabrics  is 
usually   plain   yarn,    twist  yarn    being 
too   expensive  and  the  pattern  of  the 
back  warp  usually  differs  from  the  face 
warp   in   regard  to   the  color  arrange- 
ment, but  the  number  of  ends  must  be 
the   same,   if  one   end   face   warp  and 
one  end  back  warp  fabric  is  required. 
LOOM    REQUIRED. 
These  fabrics  may  be  woven  on  any 
box,    harness    loom.      The     Crompton 
and    Knowles   would    probably    be    the 
most  economical.      The     loom     should 


220 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


have  stands  for  two  warp  beams,  one 
for  face  warp  and  one  for  back  warp; 
in  some  instances  both  warps  are 
beamed  oa  one  beam,  the  back  warp 
beamed  tight  because  of  less  take-up. 

FINISHING. 

After  the  fabric  comes  firom  the 
loom,  it  is  burled,  examined  and  mend- 
ed if  necessary.  The  face  of  the  fab- 
ric is  sheared,  after  which  it  is  run 
through  a  rotary  press.  The  fabric,  in 


off.  This  beater  should  be  so  adjusted 
that  the  proper  amount  of  cotton  is 
passed  to  the  breaker  picker,  which  is- 
generally  either  directly  connected 
or  is  connected  by  trunking  or  lattice 
work  to  the  opener.  The  beater  of  the 
breaker  picker  for  this  kind  of  stock  is 
generally  of  a  two-bladed  rigid  type 
and  its  speed  is  1,550  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  total  weight  of  the  lap 
at  the  front  is  40  pounds  or  a  16-ounce 
lap.     These  laps  are  put  up  at  the  in- 


?!  tart  of    second    paCtera.         Four 
li^items  to  repeat. 


3  equals  faoe  ends 
I  equals  back  ends 


Fig.    2. 


p>assing  through  the  press,  runs  over 
a  perforated  steam  pipe,  which  par- 
tially saturates  the  fabric,  then  it  is 
pressed  by  passing  through  heated  cyl- 
inders, after  which  it  is  made  up  into 
rolls,  then  shipped. 


Carding   and   Spinning   Particulars. 

Different  mills  make  cotton  cassi- 
mere  out  of  different  counts  of  yam, 
but  the  fabric  under  description  is 
composed  of  2-30s  warp  and  2-26s  fill- 
ing. These  yams  would  be  made  in 
a  mill  belonging  to  the  second  division 
as  given  in  a  previous  article.  The 
yam  would  be  made  from  American 
cotton  of  a  fair  grade,  having  a  staple 
of  about  1%  inches.  The  mixing 
should  be  done  by  one  of  the  various 
methods  that  have  been  given  in  pre- 
vious articles.  The  only  point  to  be 
looked  out  for  is  to  see  that  the  cot- 
ton is  thoroughly  dry  and  aired  out 
before  being  put  through  the  opener. 
For  this  class  of  fabric  the  raw  stock 
is  put  through  three  processes  of  pick- 
ing and  an  opener.  The  good  waste 
from  all  machines  up  to  the  slubber  is 
miixed  in  before  the  cotton  is  fed  to 
the  opener.  This  waste  should  be 
picked  up  at  regular  and  frequent  in- 
tervals and  spread  throughout  the  en- 
tire mixing,  and  snould  not  be  allowed 
to  accumulate  in  large  lots,  but  should 
be  run  up  as  fast  as  collected.     The 

LIFTING   APRON 
should   always  be  carrying  up  a  load 
of  cotton  for  the  pin  beater  to  strike 


termediate  picker  and  doubled  four  in- 
to one.  The  beater  of  this  machine  is 
also  generally  of  a  two-bladed  rigid 
type,  the  speed  of  which  is  1,500  rev- 
olutions per  minute.  The  total  weight 
of  the  lap  at  the  front  of  this  picker  is 
37  pounds  or  a  10-ounce  lap.  These 
laps  are  put  up  at 

THE  FINISHER  PICKER 
and  doubled  four  into  one.  It  is  at 
this  point  that  the  cut  roving  waste 
is  mixed  in  with  the  raw  stock.  This 
is  done  by  two  methods,  both  of  which 
have  been  described  in  a  previous  ar- 
ticle. If  done  by  hand,  care  should  be 
taken  to  see  that  the  percentage  of  cut 
waste  mixed  is  not  too  great,  because 
this  is  apt  to  cause  licking  of  the 
laps  when  they  are  being  run  at  the 
card.  The  beater  of  this  machine 
may  be  either  a  two-bladed  rigid  or 
a  pin  beater,  either  of  which  has  its 
advantages.  If  of  the  twfl)-bladed  rig- 
id type,  the  speed  should  be  1,450  rev- 
olutions per  minute.  This  gives  the 
cotton  passing  under  its  action  42 
beats  per  inch.  Care  should  be  taken 
to  see  that  all  the  drafts  in  the 
pickers  are  properly  directed  where 
they  will  do  the  most  good.  The  total 
weight  of  a  lap  for  this  class  of  goods 
should  be  39  pounds  or  a  14i^ -ounce 
lap.  A  variation  of  the  standard  of  half 
a  pound  (either  side)  is  allowed.  All 
laps  varying  more  than  this  are  ruu 
through  the  finisher  picker  again. 
The  picker  laps  are  put  up 
AT  THE  CARD. 
the  draft  of  which  for  this     class     of 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


221 


work  should  not  exceed  100.  The  wire 
fillet  used  should  be  No.  33  for  cylin- 
der and  35s  for  doffor  and  flats.  This 
is  the  American  count  of  the  wire; 
the  equal  English  count  is  No.  xOOs 
for  cylinder  and  No.  120b  for  doffer 
and  top  flats.  The  settings  of  the 
card  should  be  the  same  as  given  in 
connection  with  the  article  on  "Indigo 
Prints."  Strip  cylinder  and  doffer 
three  times  a  day  and  grind  lightly 
at  least  once  a  month — twice  a  month 
is  better — and  then  leave  the  grinder 
on  half  a  day.  The  teeth  should  al- 
ways be  kept  sharp  and  never  allowed 
to  run  faced.  It  is  the  general  rule  of 
grinders  to  set  cards  after  grinding  in 
large  rooms  where  several  grinders 
are  employed.  It  is  better  to  have  one 
grinder  or  boss  grinder  to  set  all  the 
cards  and  hold  him  responsible.  Keep 
cards  clean,  especially  the  front  end 
around  and  over  the  doffer  bonnet. 
The  speed  of  the  licker-in  should  be 
375  revolutions  per  minute.  The  flats 
make  one  complete  revolution  every  45 
minutes.  The  sliver  at  the  front 
weighs  65  grains  per  yard  and  the  pro- 
duction is  800  pounds  per  week  of  60 
hours. 

THE    SLIVER 

at  the  cards  should  be  sized  at  least 
once  a  week  to  see  how  it  is  compar- 
ing with  previous  sizings.  The  sliver 
is  next  put  through  three  processes  of 
drawing  frames,  which  may  have  ei- 
ther metallic  or  leather-covered  top 
rolls.  If  metallic  rolls  are  used,  keep 
them  clean,  because  if  dii-t  and  waste 
collect  in  the  flutes  of  either  the  top 
or  bottom  rolls,  cut  roving  is  almost 
sure  to  result.  Keep  top  and  bottom 
rolls  well  oiled.  If  top  rolls  are  not 
kept  oiled  and  are  allowed  to  become 
dry,  bad  work  is  sure  to  result.  Also 
see  that  the  calender  rolls  have 
enough  pressure  on  them  to  cause 
them  to  condense  the  sliver  properly. 
Look  out  to  see  that  the  tnimpets 
have  the  right  size  hole  at  the  small 
end.  The  drawing  frame  sliver  should 
be  sized  at  least  three  times  a  day, 
and  if  sized  four  times  it  keeps  the 
work  a  great  deal  evener.  The  sliver 
from  at  least  four  heads  of  each 
frame  is  taken  and  sized  separately 
and  then  averaged;  a  variation  of  not 
more  than  5  grains  either  side  of 
standard  is  allowed;  if  more  than 
this,  the  draft  gear  is  changed. 

THE  DOUBLINGS 

at  the  drawing  for  this  kind  of  work 
are  6  into  1  at  each  process.  The 
speed  of  the  front  roller  is  400  revolu- 
tions per  minute.  The  weight  of  the 
sliver  is  70  grains  per  yard.  The  draw- 


ing is  next  put  through  the  slubber 
and  made  into  .GO  hank  roving.  It  is 
not  customary  to  varnish  the  slubber 
top  leather  rolls  for  this  kind  of  work. 
See  that  the  traverse  is  working  prop- 
erly and  that  the  top  rolls  are  in 
perfect  condition  and  set  properly. 
Keep  slubber  as  clear  as  possible  and 
it  will  make  returns  many  times  over 
in  extra  production,  which  is  often  af- 
fected by  dirt,  fly,  etc.,  getting  be- 
tween the  gears  and  filling  up  the 
teeth. 

THE  SLUBBER  ROVING 

is  put  through  two  more  processes  of 
fly  frames,  the  hank  roving  being  made 
at  each  as  follows:  First  interme- 
diate, 2.00,  and  second  intermediate, 
6.00  hank  for  the  warp  yarn  and  5.25 
hank  for  the  filling  yarn.  Try  to 
keep  the  roving  a  little  on  the  heavy 
side  of  the  standard  and  don't  put 
more  twist  into  roving  than  is  actu- 
ally needed  to  draw  it  so  that  it  won't 
break  back  at  the  next  process.  Re- 
member that  every  extra  tooth  of 
twist  put  in  cuts  into  the  produc- 
tion to  that  extent.  Keep  the  top 
rolls  in  good  condition  and  change 
them  frequently.  Keep  the  chains 
clean  and  look  out  for  bunches.  Look 
out  for  single  and  double  and 
watch  the  tension  and  the  taper  of 
the  bobbin.  Do  not  let  the  help  fill 
up  the  bobbin  after  the  frame  has 
knocked  off,  but  first  be  sure  that  the 
frame  will  knock  off  at  the  proper 
place.  Keep  frames  well  oiled  and 
don't  run  bare  spindles. 

ANOTHER  THING 

to  watch  is  jumping  bobbins;  set  the 
gear  properly  to  remedy  this.  Re- 
place all  broken  bolsters  as  soon  as 
possible.  After  changing  a  frame 
over,  use  up  all  pieces  from  it  as  soon 
as  possible.  The  roving  for  the  warp 
yarn  is  spun  on  a  ring  frame  having 
the  following  particulars  for  30s  yarn: 
Gauge  of  frame,  2%  inches;  diameter 
of  ring,  1%;  twist  per  inch,  26.02,  and 
speed  of  spindle,  9,800  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  yarn  is  then  spooled, 
twisted  into  2-ply  yarn,  spooled,  and 
then  warped,  after  which  it  is  put 
through  the  slasher  and  run  on  to  a 
beam  with  the  required  number  of 
ends.  The  roving  for  filling  may  be 
either  mule  or  ring  spun;  if  the  latter, 
use  a  frame  with  a  2%-inch  gauge, 
1%-inch  diameter  ring  and  spindle 
speed  of  8,000.  This  yarn  is  then 
twisted  into  2-ply  26s,  after  which  it 
is  conditioned  and  then  is  ready  to  be 
used. 


222 


A  COTTOX  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


Dyeing    Particulars. 

BLACK. 

Ten  per  cent  thion  black  T  B  C;  20 
per  cent  sulpihide  sodium;  2  per  cent 
soda  ash;  30  per  cent  salt. 

BROWN. 

Ten  per  cent  thion  brown  R;  2  per 
cent  thion  violet  black  A;  1  per  cent 
thion  yellow  G;  10  per  cent  sodium 
sulphide;  2  per  cent  soda  ash;  25  per 
cent  saJt. 

DARK  GREEN. 

Bight  per  cent  thion  green  B;  8  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;   2  per  cent  soda 
ash;  20  per  cent  salt. 
PEARL. 

four  ounces  thion     violet    black  A; 
1  per  cent  thion  black  T    B    C:   1  per 
cent  sodium  sulphide;  i/^  per  cent  soda 
ash;  10  per  cent  salt. 
DRAB. 

Three  per  cent  thion  green  G;  3  per 
cent  thion  orange  N;  6  per  cent  sodi- 
um sulphide;  2  per  cent  soda  ash;  20 
per  cent  salt. 

NAVY  BLUE. 

Six  per  cent  thion  navy  blueR;  2  per 
cent  thion  blue  B;  8  per  cent  sodium 
sulphide;  3  per  cent  soda  ash;  30  per 
cent  salt. 

SLATE. 

One  and  one-quarter  per  cent  thion 
black  T  B  C;  li/^  per  cent  sodium 
sulphide;  2  per  cent  soda  ash;  10  per 
cent  salt. 

RED. 

Twenty  per  cent  thiogene  rubine  O; 
10  per   cent  sulphide  sodium. 
BLUE  BLACK. 

Ten  per  cent  thion  blue  black  B;  10 
per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  3  per  cent 
soda  ash;   30  per  cent  salt. 


weave  them  to  the  best  advantage; 
second,  the  demand  is  small  and  un- 
certain. 

Fig.  1  illustrates  the  effect  formed  in 
warp  ondules,  in  which  the  filling  re- 
mains in  straight  lines,  as  in  any  or- 


Fig.  1. 

dinary  fabric.    The  warp  forms  the  un- 
dulations. 

This  type  has  not  been  developed  to 
any  extent  in  cotton  goods  on  account 
of  the  reasons  mentioned,  and  for  an- 
other reason.  Some  of  the  ends 
curve  considerably  more  than  others, 
necessitating  the  use  of  several  warp 
beams  in  order  to  have  the  ends  at 
such  a  tension  that  some  will  not  be 


ONDDLE  FABRICS, 


Ondule  fabrics  are  characterized  by 
having  one  or  both  series  of  yarns, 
warp  or  filling,  drawn  out  of  a  straight 
line,  while  yet  remaining  in  the  same 
relative  positions,  i.  e.,  the  curving  of 
the  yarns  is  not  made  by  certain  yarns 
crossing  over  others  as  in  leno  and 
similar  fabrics. 

They  may  be  placed  in  the  novelty 
class.  As  such,  the  production  is  lim- 
ited in  quantity  in  cotton  goods  by 
^several  factors,  among  which  may  be 
mentioned:  First,  costly  loom  attach- 
ments have  to  be  applied  in  order  to 


slack  in  the  shed,  while  others  are 
tight.  The  sample  in  question,  al- 
though containing  only  two  different 
counts  of  warp  yarns,  one  fine  and  one 
coarse,  required  five  warps. 

It  will  be  understood  readily  that  a 
greater  length  of  warp  will  be  re- 
quired for  a  curved  end  than  for  a 
straight  end  in  a  given  length  of  cloth. 

The  white  warp  yarn  in  Fig.  1  is 
cotton. 

When  woven  in  only  one  color  or 
one  count  of  warp  the  stripe  effect  is 
very  faint. 

The  ondule  principle  of  construc- 
tion   is    not    of   recent    origin,    similar 


A    COTTON   FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


22-i 


goods  having  been  made  to  some  ex- 
tent in  the  early  part  of  the  19th  cen- 
tury. 

Filling  ondules  ai:e  of  more  lecent 
origin  than  warp  ondules,  and  may  be 
made  much  cheaper,  one  warp  only  be- 
ing required.  Fig.  2  illustrates  the  ef- 
fect of  a  good  filling  ondule,  in  which 
the  filling  yarns  form  curved  or  wavy 
effects,  the  warp  yarns  remaining 
parallel  to  each  other.  The  filling  is 
considerably  coarser  than  the  warp, 
which  accentuates  the   desired  effect. 

Fabrics  like  Figs.  1  and  2,  or  of 
combinations  of  these  two  effects,  may 
be  made  with  similar  loom  attach- 
ments or  devices.  The  attachment 
generally  used  consists  of  a  suitable 
mechanism,  varying  in  detail  with  dif- 
ferent makers,  for  imparting  to  the 
reed,  which  is  very  deep,  an  up  and 
down  movement,  so  as  to  bring  a  dif- 
ferent part  of  it  to  the  fell  of  the  cloth 
at  each  pick. 

The  reeds  used  are  of  special  con- 
struction. In  those  used  for  warp  on- 
dules the  dents  are  arranged  some- 
what like  Fig.  3. 


^  3 


The  top,  bottom  and  face  of  the 
reeds  are  straight,  as  in  oramary 
reeds. 

For  weaving  filling  ondules  the 
same  device  may  be  used  for  actuating 
the  reed.  The  reed  itself  is  made 
after  the  form  shown  in  Fig.  4.  The 
solid  line  indicates  the  top,  and  the 
dotted  line  the  bottom  of  the  reed. 
The  dents  are  equal  distances  apart, 
both  at  the  top  and  bottom.  When 
this  type  of  reed  is  used,  a  false  reed  is 
also  used  as  a  guide  for  the  shuttle,  as 
in  lappet  weaving.  Another  type  of 
reed  used  is  made  fast  at  one  end,  and 
in  loose  sections  at  the  other.  These 
sections  contain,  say,  three  or  four 
dents.  An  engraved  or  grooved  roller 
is  made  to  separate  and  change  the 
positions  of  the  sectional  end  of  the 
reed  as  desired. 

Fig.  5  illustrates  a  cotton  fabric  in- 
tended to  imitate  the  high-class  fill- 
ing ondules.  To  obtain  this  effect 
two  leno  easers  or  slackeners  have 
been  used  instead  of  the  reed  motion. 
There  are  30  ends  in  each  pattern,  15 
of  which  were  placed  over  the  first 
and  15  over  the  second  easer.  The  eas- 


ers were  then  actuated  so  that  the 
yarn  over  one  of  them  wove  slack  for 
eight  picks  while  the  yarn  over  the 
other  was  held  tight,  then  vice  versa 
for  eight  picks.  The  selvedge  ends 
were  placed  over  the  regular  whip 
roll.  Two  warp  beams  were  used,  al- 
though one  would  perhaps  have  an- 
swered better.    This  is  a  simple  raeth- 


■^4. 


of  obtaining  the  waves,  but  the  effect 
obtained  is  not  as  good  as  when  a  spe- 
cial reed  is  used;  nor  can  it  be  de- 
pended on,  not  being  a  positive  mo- 
tion. The  easers  have  to  be  adjusted 
to  a  nicety  and  kept  in  that  condition 
or  each  alternate  section  will  appear 
more  prominent  than  the  others. 

Fabrics  showing  a  much  better  ef- 
fect than  that  shown  in  Fig.  5  may  be 
produced  by  the  yarn  easing  method. 

The  construction  data  for  the  sam- 
ple is  as  follows: 

Ends  per  inch,  48;  picks  per  inch, 
48;  width,  27  inches;  warp  yarn,  50's 
cotton,  combed  American;  filling 
yarn,  2-40s  cotton.  Sea  Island,  mercer- 
ized ;  696  ends  on  number  1  beam — this 
includes  48  for  selvedges;  648  ends  on 
number  2  beam,  total,  1,344  ends: 
weight,  8  yards  per  pound;  reed,  1  end 
in  each  dent;  the  weave  is  plain  on 
4  harnesses.     The  attachments  can  be 


Fig.  5. 

applied  to    and  these  goods  made  on 
any  ordinary  dobby  loom. 


Carding  and   Spinning   Particulars. 
There    are    a   great   many    different 
styles  of     ondules     and     these     com- 


224 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


prise  many  different  counts  of  j-arn 
according  to  tbe  grade  and  quality 
of  the  fabric  being  made.  This  class 
of  fabric  is  made  in  mills  of  the  third 
division,  as  given  in  a  previous  article, 
or  at  least  those  plants  whose  equip- 
ment of  machinery  includes  combers. 
The  fabric  that  has  been  selected  out 
of  this  class  of  goods  is  made  up  as 
follows:  For  the  warp,  50s  yarn  is 
used  and  is  made  of  an  American  cot- 
ton, generally  the  kind  called  peeler, 
having  a  staple  of  1%  to  1  5-16 
inches,  being  used,  and  for  this  fabric 
is  combed.  For  the  filling  yarn  a  Sea 
Island  cotton  of  li^  inches  is  used. 
This  is  also  a  combed  yarn,  the  count 
of  which  is  2-40s.  For  th.is  article  we 
will  take  each  yarn  and  treat  it  sep- 
arately,  starting  with  the  mixing. 

MIXING. 
First  take  the  American  yarn.  This 
is  mixed, as  has  been  previously  stated, 
at  the  mixing  bin;  the  sliver  waste 
from  the  machine  up  to  the  slubber  is 
used.  Care  should  be  taken  to  see  that 
too  great  an  amount  of  this  is  not  be- 
ing made  at  the  different  machines.  It 
is  impossible  to  avoid  making  this 
waste  altogether,  but  a  large  percent- 
age of  it  may  be  saved  if  watched 
carefully.  This  cotton  is  put  through 
an  opener  and  three  processes  of  pick- 
ing. Keep  the  hoppers  of  the  open- 
ers well  filled  so  as  to  obtain  as  even 
a  feed  as  possible  at  the  breaker  pick- 
er. The  speed  of  the  beater  at  this 
machine  is  1,050  revolutions  per  min- 
ute. See  that  the  pin  beater  is  set 
properly  to  obtain  the  required  weight 
per  yard  of  cotton  being  fed  to  the 
breaker  picker.  This  picker  is  gener- 
ally provided  with  a  two-bladed  rigid 
type  of  beater,  the  speed  of  which  is 
1,550  revolutions  per  minute  for  this 
class  of  work.  The  total  weight  of 
lap  at  the  front  is  40  pounds  or  a  16- 
ounce  lap.  These  laps  are  put  up  at 
the  Intermediate  picker  and  doubled 
4  into  1.  The  beater  of  this  picker  is 
like  that  of  the  breaker,  and  its  speed 
is  1,450  revolutions  per  minute.  The 
total  weight  of  the  laps  at  the  front  of 
this  picker  is  37  pounds  or  a  12-ounce 
lap.  The  laps  are  put  up  at  the  fin- 
isher picker  and  doubled  4  into  1. 
The  speed  of  the  beater,  if  a  rigid,  two- 
bladed  type,  is  1.450  revolutions  per 
minute,  which  gives  the  cotton  pass- 
ing through  it  about  42  beats  or  blows 
per  inch.  The  total  weight  of  the  lap 
at  the  front  is  37  pounds  or  a  121^- 
ounce  lap.  A  variation  of  one-half  a 
pound  is  allowed  either  side  of  stand- 
ard; laps  over  or  under  this  weight 
are  run  through  the  finisher  again.  At 
the  finisher  picker  the  cut  waste  from 


the  fly  frames  is  mixed  ia  in  the  pro- 
portion of  one  lap  of  cut  waste  to  three 
laps  of  raw  stock.  Be  careful  not  to 
use  too  much  cut  waste,  as  it  is  apt 
to  cause  the  laps  to  kick;  also  be  care- 
ful to  see  that  the  drafts  of  the  pickers 
are  properly  directed  for  the  same  rea- 
son. At  the  card  the  draft  is  not  less 
than  100,  a  good  draft  being  120.  The 
speed  of  the  cylinder  is  IGO  revolu- 
tions per  minute;  licker-in,  300  revolu- 
tions per  minute;  and  the  top  flats 
make  one  complete  revolution  every  34 
minutes. 

DOFFER  AND  CYLINDER. 
The  doffer  should  be  as  large  as  dos- 
sible  and  clothed  with  a  No.  35s  wire 
fillet,  as  should  the  top  flats;  the  cyl- 
inder is  clothed  with  No.  34  wire  fillet, 
the  equivalent  English  count  being 
120s  for  doffer  and  110s  for  cylinder. 
Keep  this  wire  sharp  at  all  times,  as 
dull  wire  is  apt  to  cause  kinked  yarn. 
Grind  at  least  once  a  month  and  reset 
all  points  after  grinding.  It  is  a  good 
plan,  although  one  not  generally 
used,  to  brush  out  cylinder  and  dof- 
fer after  »Tinding  and  before  setting 
up.  See  that  the  grinding  brackets 
for  the  top  flats  are  'set  so  as  to  grind 
the  flats  evenly  across  their  face, 
when  in  their  working  position.  This 
is 

A  GREAT  FAULT 
with  most  of  the  grinding  devices  and 
should  be  carefully  looked  into.  See 
that  the  doffer  stripping  comb  is  set 
to  clean  the  doffer  of  the  web  proper- 
ly. Strip  cards  three  times  a  day  and 
keep  front  free  from  dirt  and  fly.  The 
total  production  for  a  week  of  60 
hours,  allowing  10  per  cent  time  for 
stoppages,  etc.,  is  550  pounds  and  the 
sliver  weighs  45  grains  per  yard.  The 
sliver   is   then  combed. 

BEFORE  BEING  COMBED 
it  has  to  be  run  through  several  dif- 
ferent processes.  The  order  of  these, 
as  well  as  the  machines  themselves, 
differs,  but  it  is  most  general  to  have 
the  machines  as  follows,  esipecially 
for  this  class  of  work:  Sliver  lap  ma- 
chine, at  which  the  doublings  for  an 
8%-inch  lap  are  14  into  1,  the  draft  of 
this  machine  being  small,  less  than  2; 
the  weight  per  yard  is  285  grains;  for 
larger  width  laps  the  doublings  and 
weight  per  yard  may  be  found  by  pro- 
portion; this  is  also  true  at  the  ribbon 
lap  machine.  At  the  ribbon  lap  ma- 
chine the  doubling  is  6  into  1,  and 
the  weig'ht  of  the  lap  is  265  grains  per 
yard.  These  laps  are  put  up 
AT  THE  COMBER 
and  doubled  according  to  the  number 
of  heads,  6  or  8  being  generally  used,  a 


A  COTIOX  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


225 


•6-head  comber  generally  using  an  8%- 
inch  lap  and  an  8-head  comber  a  10y2- 
inch  lap.  These  particulars  are  given 
for  the  Heilmann  combers  and  not 
the  later  foreign  makes,  which  have 
been  tried  with  varying  success  the 
last  four  or  five  years.  For  this  stock 
take  out  15  per  cent  waste  and  set 
time  as  given  in  a  previous  article. 
The  speed  should  be  about  95  nips  per 
minute.  Keep  all  the  leather  top  rolls 
of  sliver  and  ribbon  lap  machines  as 
well  as  those  of  the  dra\f  box  and 
detaching  rolls  of  the  comber  in  per- 
fect condition  and  well  varnished.  It 
is  a  good  plan  to  varnish  the  leather- 
covered  detaching  rolls  once  a  week. 
A  little  trouble  in  this  direction  is  well 
repaid.  Look  out  to  keep  the  per- 
centages of 

WASTE 
at  the  different  machines  uniform. 

If  two  or  more  ends  break  down  on 
the  table,  break  end  running  into  the 
can,  and  before  piecing  up  again,  see 
that  all  the  ends  are  running.  Combers 
should  be  scoured  at  least  once  a  year, 
when  they  should  be  taken  down  and 
all  parts  reset  and  timed.  Keep  table 
smooth  and  polished  and  do  not  touch 
with  the  hands  those  parts  over  which 
the  combed  sliver  is  running.  The 
weigh  per  yard  of  the  combed  sliver  is 
40  grains.  This  sliver  is  put  through 
two  processes  of  drawing,  being  dou- 
bled 6  into  1  at  each  process.  Leather- 
covered  top  rolls  are  generally  used 
for  this  class  of  stock  and  they  should 
be  looked  out  for  to  see  that  they  are 
well  oiled  and  varnished  and  in  per- 
fect condition.  See  that  all  stop-mo- 
tions are  in  working  order  so  that 
single  and  double  may  be  prevented 
as  far  as  possible.  The  weight  of 
the  drawing  is  70  grains  per 
yard.  This  is  put  through  the  slub- 
ber and  made  into  .50  hank  roving, 
after  which  it  is  run  through  three 
processes  of 

FLY  FRAMES, 
the  hank  roving  at  each  being  as  fol- 
lows: First,  1;  second,  3,  and  jack, 
10  hank.  Watch  the  leather  rolls, 
also  the  shape  and  lay  of  the  roving 
on  the  bobbins.  Mark  all  roving 
small  and  distinctly  near  bobbins,  and 
do  not  allow  pieces  to  accumulate.  This 
roving  is  taken  to  the  ring  spinning 
room  and  made  into  50s  on  a  frame 
having  a  gauge  of  2%  inches,  diameter 
of  ring,  11/^  inches,  length  of  traverse, 
6  inches,  and  spindle  speed  of  10,000 
revolutions  per  minute.  The  yarn  is 
then  spooled  and  warped,  after  which 
it  is  put  through  the  slasher,where  in 
addition  to  being  slashed  the  re- 
quired number  of  ends  are  run  on  to 


one  beam,  and  then  it  is  ready  for  the 
weave  room. 

The  Sea  Island  cotton  for 

THE  FILLING  YARN 
is  put  through  either  one  or  two  proc- 
esses of  picking,  generally  two.  The 
speed  of  a  two-bladed  rigid  type  of 
beater  at  the  breaker  is  1,350  revolu- 
tions per  minute,  and  the  total  weight 
of  lap  is  30  pounds  or  a  10-ounce  lap. 
These  laps  are  doubled  4  into  1  at 
the  finisher  picker.  The  speed  of  the 
two-bladed  rigid  type  is  1,250  revolu- 
tions per  minute,  or  about  29  blows 
or  beats  per  inch  of  cotton  passing 
through.  The  total  weight  of  this  lap 
is  28  pounds  or  a  9i/^-ounce  lap.  At 
the  card  the  draft  should  not  be  less 
than  120,  the  speed  of  the  licker-in, 
275  revolutions  per  minute.  The  top 
flats  make  one  complete  revolution 
every  35  minutes.  The  production  is 
300  pounds  per  week  of  60  hours,  and 
the  weight  of  the  sliver  40  grains  per 
yard. 

THE  SETTINGS 
for  the  card  should  be  somewhat 
closer  than  when  carding  peeler  cot- 
ton; for  example,  the  doffer  should  be 
set  to  the  cylinder  with  a  5  gauge  in- 
stead of  a  7  gauge,  and  the  flats  should 
be  set  with  a  10  gauge  instead  of  a  12 
gauge,  which  is  used  to  set  peeler  cot- 
ton. The  other  particulars  given 
above  may  be  also  used  with  Sea 
Island  cotton.  This  sliver  is  next  put 
through  the  same  machines  as  given 
above  for  combing.  The  weight  of  the 
sliver  lap  machine  is  240  grains  per 
yard  and  the  ribbon  lap  220  grains 
per  yard.  The  settings  at  the  comber 
should  be  closer  than  those  used  on 
peeler  cotton  and  the  percentage  of 
waste  taken  out  should  be  20  per  cent. 
The  weight  of  the  sliver  is  35  grains 
per  yard. 

This  sliver  is  put  through  two  proc- 
esses of 

DRAWING, 
being  doubled  6  into  1.  The  speed  of 
the  front  roll  should  be  350  revolutions 
per  minute,  and  the  weight  of  the 
sliver  60  grains  per  j'ard.  It  is  im- 
portant that  extra  care  be  taken  with 
the  top  rolls,  stop-motions,  etc..  when 
ninning  this  kind  of  stock,  otherwise 
the  particulars  given  with  peeler  cot- 
ton may  be  followed.  The  leather  top 
rolls  of  the  slubber  are  varnished  for 
this  stock  and  it  is  better  to  use  rolls 
of  a  little  larger  diameter  than 
those  used  for  peeler  cotton.  The  hank 
roving  made  at  the  slubber  is  .65, 
which  is  put  through  two  processes  of 
fly  frames,  the  hank  roving  being 
made  at  each  process  beinsr  as  fol- 
lows:   First   intermediate,     2.25;     and 


22G 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


second,  8  hank.  Use  a  finer  grain 
leather  for  the  roll  covering  than  that 
used  for  peeler  cotton  and  look  out 
for  all  the  particulars  given  above, 
except  that  extra  care  should  be 
given  to  the  Sea  Island  stock.  This 
roving  is  taken  to  the  mule  room  and 
spun  into  40s  yarn,  after  which  it  is 
generally  mercerized  under  tension 
and  twisted  into  two-ply  40s,  when  it 
is  ready  to  be  woven. 


Dyeing    Particulars. 
LIGHT  SKY  BLUE. 
Two  ounces  diamine  sky  blue  F  F; 
20  per  cent  Glauber's;   aftertreat  with 
Vz  per  cent  sulphate  copper. 
LIGHT   PEA    GREEN. 
One-quarter  per  cent     diamine     sky 
blue  F  F;  1/^  per  cent  diamine  fast  yel- 
low F  F;   20  per  cent  Glauber's  salt; 
1  per  cent  sal  soda;   aftertreat  with  1 
per  ceat  sulphate  copper. 
PEARL. 
Two  ounces  diamine  brilliant     blue 
G;    15  per   cent  Glauber's  salt;    after- 
treat  with  Yz  per  cent  sulphate  of  cop- 
per. 

PINK. 
One-half  per  cent  erika  pink;  10  per 
cent  Glauber's;  1  per  cent  sal  soda. 
CREAM. 
One-thirty-second      ounce      diamine 
fast  yellow  B;     l-64th  ounce  diamine 
catechine  3  G;   10  per  cent  Glauber's; 
1  per  cent  sal  soda. 

LIGHT    BROWN. 
One-half  per  cent  diamine  brown  M; 
1  per  cent  diamine  catechine  3  G;   20 
per  cent  Glauber's;  1  per  cent  sal  so- 
da; aftertreat  with  1  per  cent  chrome. 
GREEN. 
Two  per  cent  diamine  green  G;    20 
per  cent  Glauber's;   2  per  cent  sal  so- 
da. 

LIGHT  SLATE. 
Two  ounces  diamine  dark  blue  B; 
l-16th  ounce  diamine  fast  yellow  B; 
10  per  cent  Glauber's;  1  per  cent  sal 
soda;  aftertreat  with  i/^  per  cent 
chrome  and  i/^  per  cent  sulphate  of 
copper. 

LIGHT    SNUFF    BROWN. 
Six  ounces  diamine  catechine  3   G; 
6  ounces  diamine  catechine  B;   after- 
treat  with  %  per  cent  chrome  and  % 
per  cent  sulphate  of  copper. 
SLATE. 
One  per  cent  diamine  black  B    H;  2 
ounces  diamine  fast  yellow  B;   20  per 
cent  Glauber's;    1   per   cent  sal   soda; 
aftertreat  with  Vz  per  cent  chrome;  % 
per  cent  sulphate  of  copper. 


UMBRELLA  CLOTHS, 

The  name  given  to  these  fabrics 
indicates  the  use  to  which  they  are 
subjected.  It  stands  for  cloths  of 
widely  different  qualities,  materials 
and  weaves.  The  weaves,  with  the 
exception  of  those  used  for  umbrella 
ginghams,are  of  small  repeating  types,, 
as  plain,  three-end  twill,  and  five  and 
six  end  twills  of  four  interlacings  in 
a  repeat. 

Being  subjected  to  extremes  of 
weather,the  constructions  of  the  cloths 
are  necessarily  good. 

All-cotton  umbrella  cloths  are  usu- 
ally woven  white,  then  piece  dyed  in 
solid  colors.  For  cotton  warp  and 
worsted  filling  goods  the  warp  yam 
is  usually  dyed  before  being  woven. 
This  is  especially  the  case  in  colors 
other  than  black.  It  is  much  harder 
to  get  a  fast  color,  one  of  the  essential 
features  of  a  good  umbrella  cloth,  on 
union  piece  dyed  goods  than  on  yarn- 
dyed  goods.  Black  is  the  principal  col- 
or used. 

IN  THE  BETTER  GRADES 
of  umbrella  cloths  it  is  common  to  find 
silk  or  wool  in  combination  with 
cotton.  These  materials  are  some- 
times combined  in  the  same  yarn,  be- 
ing mixed  before  being  spun.  In 
other  cases  the  yarns  on  a  beam  are  all 
of  one  material,  and  yarns  of  different 
materials,  from  separate  beams,  are 
used  in  one  fabric. 

The  analysis  of  a  good  grade  of  um- 
brella cloth  shows  it  to  have  been 
made  of  silk  and  cotton,  the  selvedges 
being  of  silk  and  the  body  of  the 
wai'p  arranged  two  ends  of  cotton  and 
one  end  of  silk  alternately.  The  fill- 
ing is  cotton.  This  is  a  so-called 
silk  umbrella  cloth. 

A  good  cotton  umbrella  fabric  with 
a  twill  weave  is  constructed  as  fol- 
lows: Ends  per  inch,  84;  picks  per 
inch,  112;  width  in  reed,  28%  inches; 
width  of  cloth,  27  inches;  ends  in 
warp,  2,312;  reed,  2  ends  per  dent; 
warp,  60s  combed  American  cotton; 
filling,  40s  combed  Egyptian  cotton; 
weave  yiT  twill.  Plain  selvedges. 
The  cloth  was  woven  on  12  harnesses, 
2  for  selvedges  and  10  for  ground. 

One  of  the  most  essential  features  of 
a  good  umbrella  cloth  is  a  good  sel- 
vedge, as  upon  such  depends  not  only 
the  appearance  of  the  cloth,  but  its 
utility.  A  cloth  between  two  ribs  of 
an  umbrella  would  be  worthless  if  It 
contained  a  broken  selvedge. 

We  will  consider  a  plain  weave  um- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


227 


brella  cloth,  containing  a  good  sel- 
vedge, where  2  picks  work  as  one  and 
2  picks  are  inserted  in  each  shed.  The 
ground  is  reeded  2  ends  in  eaoh  dent 
and  the  selvedges  4  ends  per  dent. 

The  oonstruction  of  this  fabric  is  96 
ends  per  inch  of  60s  warp  yarn:  104 
picks  per  inch  of  56s  filling;  American 
warp  and  Egyptian  filling,  combed 
stock. 

An  ordinary  single  box  dobby  loom 
is  geinerally  used  when  making  these 
goods,  the  large  number  of  ends  per 
inch  necessita^^ing  a  greater  number  of 
harnesses  than  are  usually  run  on  cam 
looms. 

Oare  has  to  be  exercised.when  weav- 
ing, to  make  the  goods  as  near  perfect 
as  possible,  because  defects  made  in 
the  loom  have  to  be  remedied  after- 
wards, or  the  goods  have  to  be  sold  as 
seconds. 

FINISHING. 

On  account  of  the  combinations  of 
materials  found  in  mixed  umbrella 
fabrics  the  finishing  and  dyeing  proc- 
esses are  of  great  importaniceand  have 
to  be  done  with  care  in  order  tliat 
each  material  will  look  the  same 
when  finished,  and  retain  its  color  un- 
der severe  usage.  Especial  care  has  to 
be  taken  with  silk  selvedge  goods  be- 
cause, if  the  selvedges  are  damaged, 
the  goods  have  to  be  sold  for  other 
purposes,  with  a  consequent  loss  in 
price. 

Cotton  umbrella  cloths  are  singed  or 
sheared,  crabbed  and  steamed.  If  they 
contain  silk  selvedges,  the  latter  are 
moistened  slightly  just  before  they 
reach  the  singe  plates  or  flames. 

When  the  goods  are  required  to  be 
sheared,  they  are  first  thoroughly 
burled,  all  knots  and  other  uneven  im- 
perfections being  removed  so  that  the 
cloth  will  present  an  even  surface,free 
from  holes,  after  shearing.  When 
steaming  and  drying  the  goods,  it  is 
necessary  to  have  them  started  and 
kept  straight,  that  the  warp  yarns 
may  be  straight  and  the  width  uniform 
throughout  the  piece. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  goods  considered  in  this  article 
are  made  in  the  same  kind  of  mill  and 
from  the  same  grade  of  yarns  as  on- 
dule  fabrics,  which  were  dealt  with 
in  the  previous  article.  The  card- 
ing apd  spinning  data  of  the  one 
will  therefore  apply  equally  well  to 
the  other,  and  need  not  be  repeated 
here. 


100  gallons;  8  pounds  immedial  black 
N  N;  10  pounds  sodium  sulphide;  3 
pounds  soda  ash;  25  pounds  common 
salt;  run  the  pieces  through  for  oni6 
hour,  take  off  to  a  washing  machine- 
and  give  a  good  rinsing  with  water; 
aftertreat  with  3  per  cent  chrome;  3 
per  cent  acetic  aOid  for  30  minutes  at 
180  degrees  F.;  soap  with  10  pounds 
soap;  2  pounds  olive  oil;  4  pounds  sal 
soda;  50  gallons  water  at  180  degrees 
F.,  and  rinse.  Boil  the  soap,  olive 
oil  and  sal  soda  together  for  one  hour 
before  using.  For  subsequent  lots  2 
per  cent  soda  ash,  7  per  cent  immedial 
black  N  N,  8  per  cent  sodium  sul- 
phide, 6  per  cent  common  salt  will  be 
sufficient  for  the  dyeing  process. 

A  SULPHUR  BLACK 
is  the  fastest  to  light,  washing  and 
general  wear.  Another  black  can  be 
dyed  with  sulphur  black  topped  with 
logwood:  Six  per  cent  immedial 
black  N  G;  10  per  cent  sulpihide  soda; 
2  per  cent  soda  ash;  20  per  cent  salt; 
rinse  well,  and  aftertreat  with  2  per 
cent  chrome;  rinse  and  dye  with  5  per 
cent  extract  logwood;  rinse  and  soap 
at  150  degrees  F.;  Yz  ounce  soap  to  1 
gallon  water. 

And  again  a  good  black  can  be  dyed 
with  a  one-dip  black  fixed  with 
chrome  which  is  very  fast  to  light  ami 
washing,  but  not  so    fast    as    sulphur 

A  ONE-DIP  BLACK. 
Ten  per  cent  diamine  fast  black  F; 
2  per  cent  sal  soda;  30  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's salt;  dye  at  the  boil  for  one 
hour;  rinse  and  aftertreat  with  2  per 
cent  chrome;  2  per  cent  sulphate  coj)- 
per  at  175  degrees  F. ;  3  per  cent  acetic 
acid;  rinse  well  and  soap  with 
weak  soap  solution  at  150  degrees  F. 


HUCKABACK  TOWELS. 


Dyeing  Particulars. 
FAST  BLACK. 
Dyed  on  the  jig  machine.  First  bath, 


Huckaback,  or  huck,  is  a  name  given 
to  a  certain  type  of  weave  which  is 
extensively  utilized  in  the  manufac- 
ture of  towels,  being  excellently 
adapted  for  that  purpose. 

Two  of  the  principal  features  de- 
sired in  a  towel  are^  first,  strength; 
second,  a  readiness  to  absorb  moisture. 

An  examination  of  huckaback.  Figs. 
1  and  2.  will  show  that  it  is  com- 
posed for  the  greater  part  of  plain 
weave;  this  gives  strength  to  the  fab- 
ric. 

The  moisture-absorbing  qualities  of 
a  huck  towel  are  aided  by  the  long 
floats  of  yarn  which  appear  regularly. 


228 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


as  on  ends  and  picks  2,  4,  7  and  9  of 
JT'ig  2.  as  well  as  in  the  light  twist  or 
small  number  of  turns  per  inch  put  In 
the  yarns.  The  softer  twisted  the 
yarns,  the  better  they  are  adapted  for 
toweliag. 

The  selvedge  ends,  which  are  re- 
quired to  bear  the  greatest  amount  of 
friction  of  any  of  Ihs  yams  in  the 
loom,  are  usuajiy  of  2-ply  yarns, 
whereas  the  yaras  ia  tiie  body  of  the 
cloth  are  single, twisted  not  any  hard- 
er than  is  necessary  to  enable  them 
to  weave  well. 

Huckaback  toweling  is  sold  to  the 
consumers  in  various  ways,  by  piece. 


■DBDacanan 

DaDDDBDBQ" 

mamamDmaao 

aaaadMaBDH 
KDaDiinziDnG 
aBOBGaDaaa 


Fig.  1. 


EniDBDaDBD 
■DaCBDBGaU 

DaGnnaaaDa 

DGGGDBGaaa 
feGBGBGhDBG 

aDaaaoBGao 

GBDBOaGBnB 

DaaaGBGBr  a 
ananaGLGDu 

^""IGGGGn 


BTIBDBGDC^BG 

DGDaGBDBGB 
BGUGSiCaGKG 
DCCDCHGBGa 
BGHCaGaGBG 
DKuBGaGBGB 

BDanaaQDoa 
GRaBDaDHaa 

aQBOaDDQDG   ^^ssf^b 

DBDBGa_aGa  caaaGaaaaa 


DaGBGaaaaa 
Fig.  3. 


Fig.  2. 

BGaDaaaaan 
unaDDBDBDa 
DDaanaDBDa 
■DBGaoBGaa 
uaaaoaoaaa 
BGanaDDDna 
B  anaDDana 

DBDaGBGaUB 

Fig.  4. 

yard  and  towel.  The  cloth  sold  by  the 
piece  or  yard  is  generally  white. 
Completed  towels,  which  are  usually 
hemmed,  hemstitched,  or  fringed,  vary 
in  size  from  about  17  by  32,  to  25  by  45 
inches  for  general  use.  A  favorite 
size  for  barbers'  use  is  14  by  26  inches. 
These  are  all  white,  or  are  white  in 
the  body  of  the  towel  and  colored  on 
the  borders,  usually  wiith  light  red  or 
blue. 

Towel  borders  usually  consist  of  al- 
ternate stripes  of  colored  and  white 
filling,  varying  relatively  in  size  as  de- 
siired,  and  of  weaves  other  than  tliose 
of  the  huckaback  type. 

.A.n  analysis  of  a  huckaback  towel 
shows  the  following  construction  da- 
ta: Ends  per  inch,  50;  picks  per  inch, 
44;  width  of  cloth,  llVz  inches;  warp 
yam,  14s;  filling  yarn,  10s;  ends  in 
warp,  854  of  149  for  the  body  of  the 
cloth,  40,  i.  e.,  20  on  each  side,  of  2-2Ss 
for  selvedges;  23  reed,  2  ends  of  14s 
per  dent;  selvedges,  each  20  ends, 
drawn  as  10  in  5  dents;  the  weave  is 
shown  in  Fig.  3.  The  drawing-in 
draft  for  reproduction  on  a  dobbyloom 
is  straight,  with  Fig.  1  as  a  chain 
draft.  Weave  Fig.  3  differs  from  the 
chain  draft  Fig.  1  in  having  two  picks 
in  a  shed. 

To  enable  a  greater  length  of  cloth 
to  be  woven  in  a  short  time,  in  fact,  in 
one-half  the  running  time  ordinarily 
required,  two  strands    of    filling    are 


wound  together  as  one  on  a  bobbin  and 
run  ofi!  together  in  the  loom.  In  reality, 
although  the  cloth  contains  44  picks 
per  inch,  the  shuttle  traverses  the 
loom  lay  only  22  times  to  weave  one 
inch  of  cloth. 

Another  method  of  inserting  two 
picks  in  a  shed  at  once  is  by  the  use 
of  a  shuttle  containing  two  bobbins  of 
filling.  Objections  to  this  method  are 
that  it  is  necessary  to  use  a  shuttle 
of  a  greater  length  than  can  be  run 
on  an  ordinary  loom,  and  extra  waste 
is  made  if  the  filling  from  both  bob- 
bins does  not  end  at  the  same  time. 

Huckaback  towels  are  usuallj'  made 
of  linen,  cotton,  or  a  combination  of 
linen  and  cotton.  A  cloth  under  con- 
sideration of  the  latter  type,  of  a  good 
quality,  is  18  inches  wide  and  contains 
58  ends  and  37  picks  per  inch  finished. 
The  yams  in  both  warp  and  filling, 
with  the  exception  of  the  selvedge 
ends,  are  single.  There  are  8  ends  of 
2-ply  yarn  for  each  selvedge. 

Fig.  4  is  the  weave    used     for    thds 
cloth;  12  harnesses  are  required.  10  for 
ground  and  2  for  selvedges. 
LOOM  REQUIRED. 

For  plain  white  huckahack  toweling 
an  ordinary  dohby  loom  is  used,  one 
warp  beam  and  one  shuttle  only  being 
required.  Coarse  cloth  is  usually  wov- 
en on  4  harnesses,  with  a  cross  draw. 

When  colored  borders  are  required 
a  dobby  box  loom  containing  a  re- 
peater or  multiplier  motion  is  the  best 
to  use.  A  fringe  motion  is  added  to 
this  when  both  borders  and  fringe  are 
required.  This  motion  automatically 
pulls  the  cloth  forward  several  inches 
between  each  two  towels,  the  distance 
being  regulated  as  desired. 


Carding  and   Spinning   Particulars. 

Huckaback  towels  are  made  uo  of 
various  counts  of  yarns  which  differ 
according  to  the  mills  in  which  they 
are  made,  and  also  several  grades  may 
be  made  in  a  single  mill,  but  the  di- 
vision of  mills  that  they  are  made  in 
is  the  second.  The  fabric  under  de- 
scription is  made  up  of  14s  warp  yarn 
and  10s  filling:  the  selvedge  yarns  are 
2-28s. 

THESE  YARNS 
are  all  made  up  of  American  cotton, 
the  warp  and  filling  yarns  being  made 
from  a  li/i-inch  staple  and  the  sel- 
vedge yarn  of  1  5-16-staple  cotton. 
The  cotton  for  these  mixings  is  mixed 
by  hand,  large  mixings  being  made. 
They  are  put  through  an  opener  and 
three  processes  of  picking.  Only 
those  openers  that  have  the  best 
means     of  cleaning     the   pin     beater 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


229 


should  be  used,  as  there  are  several 
on  the  market  which  do  not  clean  the 
pins  properly.  Especially  is  this  the 
case  when  running  sliver  waste,  the 
waste  becoming  wound  around  the 
beater,  which  will  be  seen  to  be  a 
great  detriment. 

THE   BEATERS 

of  all  three  of  the  pickers  are  general- 
ly of  the  two-bladed  rigid  type  and  the 
particulars  given  below  will  be  ap- 
plied to  them.  The  speed  of  the 
breaker  picker  beater  for  this  stock  is 
1,550  revolutions  per  minute  and  the 
total  weight  of  the  lap  at  the  front  is 
40  pounds  or  a  16-ounce  lap.  These 
laps  are  doubled  four  into  one  at  the 
intermediate  picker  and  pass  to  the 
beater,  the  speed  of  which  is  1,450  rev- 
olutions per  minute.  The  total  weight 
of  the  lap  at  the  front  of  this  machine 
is  olYz  pounds  or  a  10-ounce  lap.  From 
the  intermediate  picker  the  laps  are 
put  up  at  the  finisher  picker  and  dou- 
bled four  into  one.  The  speed  of  this 
beater  is  1,400  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  total  weight  of  the  laps  at  the 
front  of  this  picker  is  39  pounds  or  a 
1414-ounce  lap.  The  laps  are  allowed 
a  variation  of  one-half  a  pound  either 
side  of  the  standard  weight.  When 
more  than  this,  they  are  put  up  at  the 
back  and  run  through  the  picker 
again. 

WATCH  THE  EVENER 

motion  to  see  that  it  is  working  prop- 
erly. The  cotton  at  the  finisher  pick- 
er receives  42  blows  or  beats  per  inch 
fed.  This  cotton  is  generally  a  very 
dirty  cotton  and  care  should  be  taken 
to  get  all  the  dirt  out  possible,  so  that 
the  cards  will  not  have  to  do  picker 
work.  The  laps  from  the  picker  are 
put  up  at  the  card,  the  di'aft  of  which 
is  generally  not  more  than  95.  The 
speed  of  the  licker-in  is  generally  300 
revolutions  per  minute  and  the  top 
flats  make  one  complete  revolution 
every  50  minutes.  The  settings  of  the 
card  should  be  the  same  as  those  giv- 
en in  the  article  on  "Indigo  Prints." 

THE  STRIPPING 
should  be  done  three  times  a  day  and 
cards,  especially  the  fronts,  should  be 
kept  clean.  The  cards  should  be 
ground  at  least  once  a  month,  when 
the  grinding  rolls  should  be  allowed 
to  stay  on  half  a  day.  Always  grind 
lightly  and  it  is  a  good  plan  to  have 
traverse  grinding  rolls  send  the  grind- 
ing disk  across  the  surface  of  the  wire 
fillet  as  quickly  as  possible  and  not  in 
the  slow  manner  in  which  it  is  gener- 
ally done.     Look  out  for  the  emery  on 


the  grinding  disk  to  see  that  it  does 
not  become  greasy.  The  emery 
should  be  cleaned  frequently  with 
some  fluid  that  will  remove  the 
gi'ease.  The 

WEIGHT  OF  THE  SLIVER 
should  be  65  grains  per  yard  and  the 
production  for  a  week  of  60  hours  750 
pounds.  As  these  yarns  are  carded 
they  are  put  up  at  the  drawing  frame 
and  run  through  three  processes,  the 
doublings  being  6  into  1  at  each  proc- 
ess. The  drawing  frames  may  be 
equipped  with  metallic  or  leather  top 
rolls.  If  the  latter  are  used,  keep  the 
flutes  clean ;  and  if  the  former,  see  that 
the  top  rolls  are  always  well  covered 
and  varnished.  No  matter  which  top 
rolls  are  used,  it  is  important  to  see 
that  the  stop  motions  are  all  in  per- 
fect working  order,  especially  those 
operating  the  spoons,  for  it  is  here  a 
great  deal  of  trouble  is  caused  by 
single  and  double  if  they  are  out  of 
order.     The  speed  of 

THE  FRONT  ROLL 
should  be  about  350  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  weight  of  the  sliver  at 
the  front  of  the  finisher  should  be  75 
grains.  This  sliver  is  put  up  at  the 
slubber  and  made  into  .60  hank  rov- 
ing. From  the  slubber  it  is  put 
through  one  process  of  fly  frames  for 
the  warp  and  filling  yarns  and  two 
processes  for  the  selvedge  yarn.  The 
hank  roving  being  2.25  for  warp  and 
filling  and  1.50  for  selvedge  at  the 
second  intermediate,  the  hank  roving 
for  the  latter  yarn  is  5.50.  At  these 
frames  be  sure  that  the  top  rolls  are 
in  good  condition  and  that  the  traverse 
motion  is  working  properly.  The  top 
rolls  should  be  cleaned  frequently,  at 
least  twice  a  week,  and  new  rolls  put 
in  at  regular  intervals,  these  being 
determined  by  various  conditions 
which  are  different  in  every  mill. 
Never  run  loose,  fluted,  bruised  or 
uneven  top  rolls.  Watch  to  see  that 
all 

THE  TENDERS 
mark  their  roving  correctly  and  that 
they  do  not  let  single  and  double  go. 
Do  not  allow  pieces  to  collect,  but  use 
them  up  as  fast  as  possible.  Keep 
floor  of  card  room  clean  at  all  times, 
as  nothing  creates  so  poor  an  impres- 
sion on  a  visitor  as  an  untidy  card 
room  floor.  From  the  card  room  the 
roving  is  taken  to  the  ring  spinning 
room  and  made  into  14s  warp  on  a 
frame  having  a  gauge  of  three  inches, 
diameter  of  ring,  21/8  inches,  length  of 
traverse,  7  inches,  twist  per  inch,  17.77, 
and  spindle  speed  of  9,000  revolutions 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY, 


per  minute.  The  10s  filling  yarn  is 
made  on  a  frame  having  a  2%-inch 
gauge,  1%-inch  diameter  ring,  7- 
inch  traverse,  10.28  twist  per  inch  and 
spindle  speed  of  6,400  revolutions  pe'- 
minute.  The  selvedge  yarn  is  spun  on 
a  frame  having  2%-inch  gauge,  1%- 
inch  diameter  ring,  6%-inch  trav- 
erse, 25.13  twist  per  inch  and  spindle 
speed  of  9,700  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  warp  yarn  is  put  through  a  spool 
er  and  warper  and  from  here  pu' 
through  a  slasher.  The  selvedge  i;; 
put  through  a  spooler  and  then  twisted, 
spooled  again,  and  run  on  to  a  se.- 
vedge  beam  after  being  put  through  a 
slasher. 


A  four  and  four,  or  five  and  five 
mock  leno  is  based  on  the  same  prin- 
ciple as  the  three  and  three  described 
above:  lin  the  four  and  four  the  ends 
are  reeded  four  i  i  one  dent,  whiJe  in 


IMITATION  GADZE-Mock  Lenc, 


These  weaves  are  very  extensively 
used  in  cotton  manufacture. 

The  imitation  of  leno  or  gauze  fab- 
rics can  be  made  extremely  close;  in 
some  cases  the  deception  has  even  im- 
posed on  experienced  buyers. 

These  weaves  are     commonly     used 

DaDIDBDaUBDa 
■■■DDDaHaDG 

uaaaDaaaoaDa 
aaaaaaaaaaan 
ODaaaaaanaaa 
B^aDaaaoaGaa 
DanaoaaaaauB 
aaaaaDBaaaDa 
aanaaaDaaaDB 
BaaaBDaDBDaa 
DnaaaaaaDBBB 
aaaaaDaaaaao 
Fig-.  1. 

for  such  fabrics  as  dress  goods,  cur- 
tains, ladies'  aprons,  men's  shirts, 
canvas  cloth,  etc.  These  fabrics  are 
charaoterized  by  three  or  more  warp 
threads  and  three  or  more  filling  picks 
interlacing  with  each  other  very 
loosely,  while  the  following  warp  and 
filling  threads  form  a  complete  break 
aaid  so  can  readily  be  kept  apart  for 
small  spaces. 

In  the  warp  these  breaks  are  aug- 
mented by  the  reed  by  leaving  one, 
two,  three  or  more  dents  empty  (if, 
for  example,we  use  a  plain  six-haniess 
imitation  gauze  weave,  as  shown  in 
Fig.  1,  ends  one,  two  and  three  would 
be  drawn  in  one  dent,  while  ends  four, 
five  and  six  would  fill  another  dent) 
and  by  leaving  one,  two  or  more  dents 
empty  between  the  first  group  of  three 
ends  and  the  second  group  of  three 
ends.  The  number  of  dents  to  be  left 
empty  depends  upon  the  space  desired 
between  each  group  of  ends. 

Diagram  Fig.  2  shows  the  character 
of  fabric  woven  with  weave  shown  in 
Fig.  1. 


the  five  and  five  the  ends  are  reeded 
five   in  one   demt. 

The  four  and  four  and  the  five  and 
five  end  patterns  produce  a  slightly 
more  open  effect  than  the  three  and 
three  end  pattern. 

The  former  is  also  suitable  for  a  fin- 
er make  of  cloth,  as  the  open  effect 
can  be  made  with  a  larger  number  of 
ends  per  inch. 

In  the  five  and  five  end  or  ten-har- 
ness weave  (see  Fig.  3)  the  second, 
fourth,  seventh  and  ninth  ends  serve 
to  pull  the  picks  together  in  fives  and 
make  a  decided  opening  in  the  cloth 
between  the  fifth  and  sixth  picks;  in 
the  pattern  the  same  thing  takes  place 
with  the  ends — they  are  pulled  togeth- 
er in  fives  by  the  second,  fourth  and 
seventh   and   ninth    picks,    and    if   two 


aaDananaaB 
aaaaaaDDDg 
aaaanaaaDB 
BaaaaaDaaa 
DBDaaaDaaa 
BDaaaDBDaa 
nanDDaaaaa 
a"«aaaanaa 
□anoaaaaaa 
aca^BDaDaa 


Fi£ 


dents  be  skipped  between  each  group 
of  five  ends  it  will  produce  the  effect 
in  fabric  shown  in  Fig.  4.  In  addition 
to  plain  gauze  fabrics, as  shown  in  Fig 
2,  these  weaves  are  used  in  connec- 
tion with  plain  woven  fabrics  in  the 
form  of  a  pattern  (see  Fig.  4)  and  also 
in  the  form  of  checks.  The  fabric 
shown  in  Fig.  4  shows  a  series  of  ends 
working  gauze  or  mock  leno  through- 
out the  entire  pattern, forming  a  stripe 
through  the  entire  length  of  the  fab- 
ric.    In  the  check  effects     these     ends 


A  COTTON  FABRIC'S  GLOSSARY. 


231 


are  made  to  weave  plain  or  otherwise 
as  may  be  desired.  Fig.  5  illxistrates 
a  mock  leno  three  and  three  check 
pattern,  showing  18  ends  working 
gauze  for  IS  picks  and  the  next  18  ends 
work  plain  for  18  picks,  these  two  se- 
ries of  ends  alternating  into  a  plain 
weave  at  the  end  of  the  IS  picks.  These 
check  pattern  fabrics  in  nearly  all  in- 


width  of  fabric  finished,  36  inches; 
ends  per  inch  finished,  68;  reed, 
1,200;  take-up  of  warp  (ground 
warp)  during  weaving,  10  per 
cent;  take-up  of  leno  warp  during 
weaving,   20   per  cent. 


Fi£ 


stances  are  given  a  wet  finisli.  By 
reason  of  the  fact  that  the  warp  is 
reeded  three  in  one  dent,  skipping  one, 
two  or  more  dents  between  each  three 
ends  will  cause  the  plain  woven  part 
of  the  fabric  to  show  more  or  less 
streaky;  that  is,  it  will  show  each  of 
the  three  ends  lying  close  together 
instead  of  being  evenly  distributed 
across  the  fabric.  When  subjected  to 
the  wet  finish  these  ends  will  take 
their  proper  places.  When  making  a 
gauze  stripe  fabric  as  shown  in  Fig.  4, 
the  ends  operating  the  gauze  weave 
are  on  a  separate  beam  because  of  the 
difference  of  take-up  in  warp  during 
weaving. 

Another  method  of  producing  a 
mock  leno  is  to  have  two  ends  appear 
as  if  they  were  twisted  around  sever- 
al other  ends,  that  is,  not  resting  par- 
allel to  one  another.  This  is  readily 
produced  by  allowing  the  two  ends  to 
come  together  for  two  picks. then  grad- 
ually spreading  them  for  six  or  eight 
picks,  then  allowing  them  to  gradually 
come  together  again  for  two  picks. 
These  two  ends  in  the  pattern  are  of 
coarser  counts  than  the  body  of  warp, 
usually  a  three-ply  thread,  and  are  on 
a  separate  beam  from  the  body  of  the 
warp. 

Fig.  6  shows  design  and  reeding 
plan  for  a  fabric  of  the  above  descrip- 
tion. 

ANALYSIS. 

Width  of  warp  in  reed,  ST^^  inches; 


DRESSING. 

12  ends  white. 

8  ends  blue. 

B  ends  white. 

4  ends  blue. 

2  ends  white. 

2  ends  blue. 

10  ends  white. 

8  ends  blue. 

16  ends  white. 

1  end   dark   blue   mercerized 

cotton 

8  ends  white. 

1  end   dark   blue   mercerized 

cotton 

16  ends  white. 

8  ends  blue. 

10  ends  white. 

2  ends  blue. 

2  ends  white. 

4  ends  blue. 

6  ends  white. 

8  ends  blue. 

134  ends  in  pattern. 

Ends  in  pattern:  88  ends  white 
1-lOs;  44  ends  blue  l-40s;  2  ends  dark 
blue   3-30s;    total,   134  ends. 

Filling,  70  picks  per  inch  1-503 
bleiached  cotton. 

LOOMS  REQUIRED. 

These  fabrics  are  mostly  woven  witlh 
but  one  color  filling;  comsequently  any 
ordinary  harness  loom  would  answer 
for  weaving  these  fabrics.  Competition 
and  economy  are  factors  that  have 
caused  the  discarding  of  the  old  roller 
loom,  using  instead  the  Crompton  and 


lamnmamnmamamauama 

BDSiDfflaffiDtaDfflLjfi)D*D«D«CJ«u«uBaHDBa«n»UBD 

DaQ'BntfiDffla'SGfflD^U'ijacMUBUHLjBLjBaBOBaBnBaB 

Ha!i!Dffla>BD*nfflaffiDaUfflUil«BUUD»«BDLCjBBBLLD 
DfflDaCJ-aU!ilDS<JmJfflJl«afflD«aBu«n«DBD«aBDBDB 
EBDSGffl3*aaaaGSJLJSafflnBDBDBDBDBDBDBGBnBa 

aasGsnflafflGtaGaaiGffiafflaauBBBGQGBBBaDUBBB 

fflGfflGeBQfflaa?GfflaaGffiG(ilQBGBa«LjBGBLjBQBCBGBQ 

afflGsatacsaaaafflafflQfflaaLB.jBGBGBaBuBGBQBGB 

ffl  tBG«G!BaiBGaaE&GS)GfflCB«Bu^GBBBDGGBBBnCG 
□fflGfflGfflGaathGfflDSafflGeGnaBaBGBGBGBQBQBGB 
ffiDiBGfflGeBUt2G*afflG*ati)aBGBGBaBQBDB.  BOBGHQ 
GfflG'BaSafflafBOiBGaaaLj&GauBBBGQaBBBGaUBBB 
fflGfflGaGaaaaaGfflQfflGfflGBuiiLB^BnBDBaB  BQBG 
G^^GSG'SaeQ&G^aaaEaafflQBGBDBnBnBDBGBaBGB 
SSQ.SG'aGaasafflGfflGHGfflDBBBGDGBBBDDaBBBGGG 
GSGfflG-SGaGtaGSGaGfflDfflDBGBaBDBDBGBaBOBGB 
BGBJB IBGBGBGBGBaBaffinffiCSGfflflffiGfflDfflDfflasa 
aaCBBBGGGBBBanaBBBafflCfflaffiGffiDfflGSGEaGffiDffl 

BaBaBGBaBaBDBGBnBnsaan»pasnfflGn<GfflaBCffla 
DB  ■■GBGBDBnBnBnBDBGsi''saffiai?Gffia»Gfficeqg 

BBBGrjaBBBGGGBBBGGDfflnanfl-naGS'GSGffiasaffla 
DBGBQBGBGBnBQBGBuBaBCfflQfflGfflGfflDSIGffiagnffl 
BaBGBaBaBGBaBnBGBDBGffiafflGSDfflafBDgDffigffin 
GaaBBBGGGBBBnGnBBBGfflafflnS'asnfflDagffiDBDffl 
BaBGBGBr^BaBnBGBGBGfflGfflGffafflGaaaBDEBafflDBn 

DBaBGBaBGBaBaBnBaBG5)nffinE8GffiaanaDfflnfflDg 

BBBGG  BBBGaGBBBnGiSGfflGIBDfflDBDBnffinfflG^D 
GBGB  BGBGBnBPBGBGBafflnPBnfflafflGfflDfflGBDffing 
BGBGBGXGBGBGBGB ''  BGfflGHIGfflnfflDfflGfflnfflrSaSD 

DOGBBBnaGBBB'~GaBBBGaGBnEBnfflafflafflGffinsag 
BQBGBnBGBaBaBaBaBnfflGfBGfflnBnBnfflCBnffiDEn 

OBOB  "  BGBGBr  BaBnBGBGBaSinfflGaafflOfflDHiDffiDffl 
BBBGCGBBBnGnBBBGODBGfflGfflGffiGBGfflnBDfflDFPD 
GBGBaBGBGBGBGBGBGBaSCEBafflnfflafflDfflafflDfflDffl 

Fig-.   5. 


Knowles    dobby     or     Ingham     patent 
harness  motion  loom. 

FINISHING. 
These  fabrics  are  sometimes  given 
a  dry  finish,  depending  chiefly  upon 
the  weave  and  pattern.  In  some  quali- 
ties in  which  only  one  color  warp  and 
filling  is  used,  the  fabric  is  bleached, 


232 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


hot  pressed,  then  made  up  into  rolls 
ready  for  shipment.  When  two  or 
more  colors  are  used,  the  fahric  in 
most  cases  is  boiled  off,  then  subjected 
to  a  light  sizing,  pressed,  and  then 
made  up  into  rolls. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  yarns  of  which  mock  lenos  are 
composed  are  made  up  in  mills  of  the 
second  division  as  given  in  a  previous 
article.  These  yarns  may  be  either 
combed  or  just  carded,  according  to 
the  grade  of  the  fabric  to  be  made. 
For  the  fabric  under  description  in 
this  article  we  will  consider  the  fill- 
ing yarn  to  be  combed  and  the  warp 
yarn  to  be  carded.  The  filling  yarn  is 
made  from  an  American  cotton  of  1  5- 
16-inch  staple,  while  the  warp  yarn  is 
made  out  of  cotton  of  1%-inch,  the 
cotton  used  for  both  purposes 
being  of  a  good  grade.  Both  cottons 
are  generally  mixed  by  hand,  being 
kept  in  separate  bins,  of  course.  The 
mixings  should  be  as  large  as  possible, 


DCiaasamammamamanoaamamamDmDmD3samama 
aaaaamomaamamacaaamamaaamnanmasDBaB 
DaaamamommamnmaaDaamDBasamamnaamDBa 
DaaaamamDamcjmoDDaamDBiDmDmasDmaBamam 
DnDaffiaBaB«n«nffinanDDffiDacfflnsDBDffin»DfflD 

nnanfflBaBDDBDBfflCiDaDSDffiDSDffiDffiDffiGBDSDffl 

mamamamammDmaBamamcma&aaasnmDma'snmD 
nmammDaaaaanaBmamamnmamnBsDsasasnmam 
mamasaDaaanaaasamamDBasamamumijmDmnma 
nmamDDaaaaaacnmamamDmnmnmDmDBDmDmaB 
mamasaaaDuaDDBDmamamDBDaamnmDsnBamD 

mamasDaciDDaaDsamomamamaBamaBamamnmn 
DBaBfflDDDannoafflBDBDsnffloanfflDfflDfflnfflnaDffl 
■□■□QQBDaaDBDBaaDaasasD^CEBDSoffiDSDSc 


Fig-.    6. 

each  batch  being  calculated  to  last  ax 
least  a  week. 

A  GOOD  PLAN 
to  follow  is  to  have  a  batch  of  the 
same  stock  always  on  hand  drying  out 
while  one  is  being  used.  This  insures 
a  dry  and  fluffy  cotton  being  mixed. 
At  the  mixing  bins  the  good  sliver 
waste  from  all  machines  up  to  the 
slubber  is  mixed  in.  This  waste  should 
be  spread  throughout  the  entire  mix- 
ing and  not,  as  is  sometimes  done, 
piled  up  in  one  place  and  fed  to  tht. 
opener  all  at  once.  The  mixing  is  put 
through  an  opener  and  three  processes 
of  picking.  Follow  the  rules  that  have 
been  given  in  previous  articles  in 
connection  with  the  opener.  At  the 
breaker  picker  the  beater  used  is  gen- 
erally of  a  two-bladed,  so-called  rigid 
type  and  for  both  stocks  makes  1,500 
revolutions  per  minute.  See  that  the 
beater  is  properly  set  to  the  feed  rolls 
and  that  the  grid  and  grate  bars  are 
properly  spaced  so  that  they  will  al- 


low all  foreign  matter  to  drop  through. 
Look  out  for  all 

THE  DRAFTS 
to  see  that  they  are  properly  directeu 
to  the  best  advantage  to  make  a  good, 
clean,  even  lap  that  does  not  split. 
The  weight  of  the  lap  at  the  front  of 
the  breaker  picker  is  40  pounds.  At 
the  intermediate  picker  the  speed  ot 
the  beater  (two  bladed)  is  1,450  revo- 
lutions per  minute,  and  the  total 
weight  of  the  lap  is  37  pounds  or  a  12- 
ounce  lap  for  the  1  5-16-inch  stock  and 
a  10-ounc9  lap  for  the  1 1^4 -inch  stock. 
These  laps  are  doubled  four  into  one 
at  the  finisher  picker.  On  this  picker 
the  speed  of  the  beater  is  also  1,450 
revolutions  per  minute.  The  total 
weight  of  the  lap  at  the  front  is  35 
pounds  for  the  1  5-lG-inch  stock  and 
39  pounds  for  the  li/4-inch  stock,  or  a 
13-ounce  lap  for  the  longer  stock  and  a 
141/^-ounce  lap  for  the  shorter  staple. 
The  laps  are  put  up  at  the  card  and 
the  draft  of  the  card  for  the  warp 
yarn  is  not  more  than  95.  The  speed 
of  the  licker-in  should  be  about  300 
revolutions  per  minute.  The  top  flats 
make  one  complete  revolution  every 
50  minutes.  The  sliver  weighs  65 
grains  per  yard  and  the  production  for 
a  week  of  60  hours  is  750  pounds.  For 
the  filling  yarn  the  draft  of  the  card 
should  not  be  less  than  110.  The  top 
flats  make  one  complete  revolution 
every  35  minutes,  the  speed  of  the 
licker-in  being  300  revolutions  per  min- 
ute. The  weight  of  tne  sliver  is  55 
grains  per  yard  and  the  production 
550  pounds  for  a  week  of  60  hours. 
The  counts  of  the  wire  fillet  used  for  all 
parts  would  be  similar  for  carding 
both  staples  of  cotton  or  110s  for  cyl- 
inder and  120s  for  doffer  and  top  flats. 
Strip  three  times  a  day  and  grind  at 
least  once  a  month.  Always  gauge  the 
setting  points  after  grinding  and  set 
to  high  places.     Use 

THE  SETTINGS 
given  in  a  previous  article  on  "Bed- 
spreads." The  sliver  for  the 
warp  yarn  is  put  through  three 
processes  of  drawings,  the  doub- 
lings being  6  into  1,  the  speed  of 
the  front  roll  being  350  revolutions  per 
minute  at  each  process.  A  good  weight 
for  the  sliver  at  the  different  process- 
es is  as  follows:  77  grains  at  front  of 
breaker,  76  grains  at  front  of  middle 
and  70  grains  at  front  of  finisher. 
Either  metallic  or  leather  covered  top 
rolls  may  be  used  on  this  stock.  Ei- 
ther one  used  will  give  good  results  if 
properly  cared  for.  If  leather-covered 
rolls  are  used,  use  one  of  the  recipes 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


given  in  a  previous  article  and  don't 
use  rolls  that  are  not  in  perfect  con- 
dition. If  the  damage  is  in  the  cover- 
ing, send  it  to  be  recovered  and  always 
examine  the  returned  rolls  to  see  that 
they  are  level  and  have  the  right  grade 
of  sliver  covering.  Look  out  for  all 
the  knock-off  motions  to  see  that 
they  are  in  perfect  working  order; 
for  remember,  that  one  of  the  two  du- 
ties of  a  drawing  frame  is  to  even  the 
sliver,  and  if  the  knock-off  motions  do 
not  work  they  will  allow  single  to  go 
through,  which  is  a  serious  fault  thai, 
is  not  corrected  while  passing  through 
the  slubber  where  the  end  is  put 
through  single.  The  drawing  sliver  is 
put  through  the  slubber  and  drawn 
into  .60  hank  roving.  From  here  it 
passes  through  two  processes  of 

FLY  FRAMES, 
the  hank  roving  at  the  first  in- 
termediate being  2  for  the  30s,  and  2y2 
for  the  40s  yarn;  at  the  second  inter- 
mediate the  hank  roving  is  G  for  the 
SOs  and  8.50  for  the  40s  yarn.  These 
rovings  are  then  spun  on  a  ring  frame 
into  30s  and  40s  yarn.  For  30s  yarn 
the  frame,  to  get  best  results,  should 
be  fitted  as  follows:  Gauge  of  frame, 
2%  inches;  diameter  of  spindle,  1% 
inches;  length  of  traverse,  6l^  inches; 
twist  per  Inch,  26.02,and  spindle  speed, 
9,800  revolutions  per  minute.  For  40s 
yam  use  a  2%-inch  gauged  frame,  a 
1%-inch  diameter  ring;  6i/^-inch  trav- 
erse, 28. 4G  twist  per  inch  and  spindle 
speed  of  10,000  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  yarns  are  spooled  and  twisted,  3 
ends  of  30s  being  twisted  together,  and 
then  2  ends  of  the  3-30s  twisted  with 
1  end  of  the  40s  yarn.  The  yarns  are 
then  warped  and  slashed. 

The  card  sliver  for  the  filling  yarn 
is  generally  put  through  a  sliver  lap, 
ribbon  lap  and  then  a  comber.  At  the 
sliver  lap  the  doublings  are  14  into  1, 
the  weight  of  a  yard  of  lap  being  280 
grains  per  yard.  These  are  doubled  at 
the  ribbon  lap  machine  6  into  1.  The 
weight  of  the  laps  at  the  front  of  this 
machine  is  265  grains  per  yard.  These 
laps  are"  put  up  at  the  comber  and 
doubled  according  to  the  number  of 
heads  on  the  comber,  either  six  or 
eight  into  1.  The  particulars  given  for 
the  sliver  and  ribbon  lap  machines  are 
for  an   S%-inch  lap. 

AT  THE  COMBER 
a  percentage  of  16  per  cent  should  be 
taken  out  of  the  lap  being  fed.  The 
settings  should  be  the  same  as  given 
in  a  previous  article  and  this  is  true 
of  the  trimmings.  As  the  combers  are 
not  equipped  with  stop-motions,  single 
and  double  should  be  looked  for.  and 


it  is  a  general  rule,  if  two  or  mure 
ends  break  down  on  the  table,  to  break 
the  sliver  entering  the  can  and  to  re- 
move all  single  from  can  before  piec- 
ing up  end  again.  This  rule  should  be 
rigidly  enforced  so  as  to  prevent,as  far 
as  possible,  single  going  to  the  draw- 
ing frame.  Keep  the  leather  detach- 
ing rolls  in  perfect  condition  as  to  cov- 
ering and  varnish.  It  is  a  good  plan 
to  varnisih  all  detaching  rolls  at  least 
once  a  week.  Varnish  leather  covered 
rolls  in  draw  box  as  often  as  neces- 
sary. Take  percentages  of  at  least  six 
combers  a  day  to  see  just  what  they 
are  doing.  The  comber  sliver  is  put 
through  two  processes  of  drawing.  1  he 
speed  of  the  front  roll  at  each  process 
is  350  revolutions  i>er  minute.  A  good 
weight  for  the  sliver  is  68  grains  per 
yard  at  the  breaker  and  75  grains  per 
yard  at  the  finisher.  The  sliver  is  then 
put  through  the  slubber  and  made  in- 
to .50  hank  roving.  From  here  it  is 
put  through  three  processes  of  fly 
frames,  the  hank  roving  at  each  proc- 
ess being  as  follows:  First  intermedi- 
ate 1;  second  intermediate  3,  and  fine 
12  hank.  This  roving  may  be  either 
mule  or  ring  spun.  If  the  latter,  use  a 
frame  with  the  following  particulars: 
Gauge  of  frame,  2%  inches;  diameter 
of  ring,  1%  inches;  length  of  traverse. 
5%  inches;  twist  per  inch,  26.52,  and 
speed  of  spindle,  8,200  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  yarn  is  then  taken  and 
conditioned  and  is  ready  for  weaving. 

Dyeing  Particulars. 
AMBER. 
One-half  per  cent  diamine  catechine 
G;  15  per  cent  Glauber's  salt:  1  per 
cent  sal  soda;  aftertreat  with  Vz  per 
cent  bichromate  of  potash;  V2  per 
cent  sulphate  of  copper. 

SKY  BLUE. 
One-half  per  cent  diamine  sky   blue 
F  F;  15  per  cent  Glauber's  salt;  1  per 
cent  sal  soda;   aftertreat  with  V^     per 
cent  sulphate  of  copper. 

LIGHT  PEA  GREEN. 
Six  ounces  diamine  sky  blue  F  F;  8 
ounces  diamine  fast  yellow  F  F;  10 
IKmnds  Glauber's;  1  pound  sal  soda; 
aftertreat  with  1  per  cent  sulphate  of 
copper. 

PINK. 

One-half  per  cent  erika  pink  G;  10 
per  cent  Glauber's  salt;  1  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

LIGHT     SLATE. 

Four  ounces  benzo  fast  black;  1-16 
ounce  chrysopheni"^e;  5  pounds  Glau- 
ber's salt;    Vs  pound  sal  soda. 


:a 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


PEARL. 

Four  ounces  naphthamine  black  N; 
u  pounds  Glauber's;   1  pound  sal  soda; 
aftertreat  with  y2  pound  bichrome. 
NAVY. 

Four  per  cent  naphthamine  blue     2 
B;    20  per  cent  Glauber's;   2  per  cent 
sal  soda;  aftertreat  witli  1  per  cent  bi- 
chrome;  1  per  cent  sulphate  copper. 
NAVY  BLUE. 

Two  per  cent  diaminogene  blue  B 
B;  2  per  cent  diaminogene  blue  N  A; 
25  per  cent  Glauber's  salt;  3  per  cent 
sal  soda. 

Diazotize:  Two  and  one-half  pesr  cent 
nitrite  soda;  5  per  cent  sulphuric  acid; 
turn  for  15  minutes  and  rinse. 

Develop:  Dissolve  14 1/^  pounds  beta 
naphthol;  18  pounds  soda  lye  at  77  de- 
grees Tw.;  20  gallons  boiling  water; 
for  100  pounds  yarn  add  ll^  g'allons  of 
developing  solution,  turn  for  15  min- 
utes, rinse  and  give  a  good  soaping. 
RED. 

Six  per  cent  primuline;   20  per  cent 
Glauber's;   2  per  cent  sal  soda;   diazo- 
tize and  develop  as  the  navy  blue. 
LIGHT  YELLOW. 

Four  ounces  chromine  G;   5  pounds 
salt;   1  pound  sal  soda. 
GREEN. 

Three  per  cent  diamine     green     G; 
3  per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow  A;   af- 
tertreat with  3  per  cent  bichrome. 
BLACK. 

Fifteem  per  cent  immedial  black  N 
N;  1^  per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  3  per 
cent  soda  ash;  30  per  cent  Glauber's 
salt. 


FILLING  REVERSIBLES. 

Filling  reviersibles  is  a  term  given  to 
a  class  of  cotton  fabrics  used  exten- 
sively in  the  manufacture  of  dressing 
sacques,  kimonos,  bath  robes,  etc.  In 
cotton  warp  and  shoddy  or  woolen 
filling  goods  the  same  principle  of  con- 
struction is  adopted  for  goods  for 
horse  blankets,  rugs,  etc. 

THE  RESULT  DESIRED 
is  to  have  a  cloth  containing  two  col- 
ors, each  color  being  in  solid  blocks  or 
effects,  and  to  have  one  side  the  re- 
verse of  the  other.  In  low-price  goods 
this  is  ohtained  by  a  combination  of 
we'ave,  color  and  finishing. 

Fig.  1  illustrates  a  cloth  of  this  type 
showing  solid  blocks    of     brown     and 


white  runningwarp  way.  Where  brown 
appears  on  the  face,  white  appears  op- 
posite on  the  back.  In  this  particular 
sample  the  white  bar  across  the  cloth 
shows  white  on  both  sides.  Brown 
shows  opposite  white  at  all  other 
places. 

Fig.  2  illustrates  the  weave  for  cloth 
Fig.  1,  being  on  80  ends  and  96  picks. 
Sections  A  correspond  to  brown  sec- 
tions on  the  face  of  the  cloth,  and  sec- 
tions B,  indicated  on  picks  marked 
White,  to  the  white  sections.  The 
weave  is  really  complete  on  eight 
picks,  the  coloring  indicating  the  ex- 
tent of  the  pattern. 

In  Fig.  2  the  dots  indicate  the  face 
weave,  i.  e.,  at  these  places  the  filling 


Fig.  1. 

which  is  always  considerably  coarser 
than  the  warp,  almost  covers  the  lat- 
ter. On  account  of  the  large  number 
of  picks  as  compared  to  warp.the  rela- 
tive sizes  of  the  yarns  and  the  pecul- 
iarity of  the  weave,  the  filling  on  the 
picks  indicated  by  the  dots  comes  to- 
gether, covering  the  picks  indicated 
by  the  crosises.  The  picks  marked  in 
crosses  come  together  on  the  under 
side  of  the  cloth. 

In  the  section  bracketed  and  indi- 
cated as  containing  80  picks,  the  filling 
is  picked  two  brown  and  two  white  al- 
ternately, making  40  brown  picks  on 
the  face  and  40  white  picks  on  the 
back  in  sections  A  and  the  reverse  col- 
ors in  sections  B.  The  fabric  is  really 
double  in  the  filling  and  single  in  the 
warp. 

Sections  A  form  a  left-hand  twill  on 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


the  face  and  a  right-hand  twill  on  the 
back;   sections  B  vice  versa. 

The  construction  of  the  fabric  under 
consideration  is  42  ends  and  62  (31 
face  and  31  back)  picks  per  inch  finish- 
ed. The  warp  is  15s  and  the  filling 
7^4s.  The  latter  contains  very  little 
twist.  The  warp  is  all  white.  The 
filling  is  two  brown  and  two  white  for 


80  picks,  16  white;  total,  96  picks  per 
pattern.  The  width  is  27  inches  fin- 
ished. The  harness  draft  requires 
eight  harnesses,  four  for  sections  A 
and  four  for  sections  B,  in  addition  to 
two  for  selvedges.  Reed  2  or  4  ends 
per  dent.  The  chain  draft  is  shown 
in  Fig.  3.  The  box  chain  would  be  re- 
quired to  be  built  for  96  picks,  and  a 
loom  with  a  repeater  or  multiplier 
motion  would  be  the  best  to  use. 


LOOM    REQUIRED. 

The  simpler  types  of  filling  reversi- 
bles  can  be  woven  readily  on  any  ordi- 
nary dobby  loom  arranged  with  a  two 
by  one  box  motion.  As  the  warp  is 
hidden  entirely  after  finishing,  one 
warp  only  is  required.  On  account  of 
the  coarseness  of  the  filling.large  shut- 
tles are  necessary.  For  rugs  a  jac- 
quard  head  is  usually  used. 
FINISHING. 

Practically  all  the  finishing  these 
goods  receive  is  in  raising  the  fibre  to 
form  a  nap.  This  nap  entirely  oblit- 
erates the  weave  effect.  The  soft- 
twisted  filling  is  readily  raised  by  the 
card  wire  of  the  cotton  raising  ma- 
chines. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  mills  that  make  the  yarns  of 
which  filling  reversibles  are  made, 
will  be  found  in  the  first  and  sec- 
ond division  of  mills  as  given  in  a  pre- 
vious article.  The  filling  yarn  is  slack 
twisted  and  for  the  fabric  to  be  de- 
scribed is  a  number  TYz  yarn.  This  is 
made  from  various  stocks;  some- 
times only  straight  cotton  is  used, 
but  more  generally  it  is  composed  of  a 


DBnnnaDBBB 
■DiaDaaaBa 

nBBBDBaBDa 
BGBBBDBODD 
DBDBQGBBDB 
BDaaBDBaBB 
nBDBBBDDDB 

aaaDBBaaaa 
Fig.  3. 


certain  percentage  of  waste,  sometimes 
as  high  as  60  per  cent  waste  being 
used. 

THE  WASTE 
used  also  differs,  some  using  card 
waste,  some  comber  and  some  both. 
It  is  generally  safe  to  say  if  waste  is 
used  that  it  will  be  card  waste,  for  the 
mills  making  this  class  of  goods  are 
not  generally  equipped  with  combers. 
The  stock  with  which  the  waste  is 
mixed  is  of  from  %  to  1  inch  staple, 
according  to  the  quality  of  the  fabric 
required.  A  fine  average  staple  to  take 
is  one  of  %-inch  length.  The  mixing 
would  be  done  by  hand  and  it  is  al- 
most needless  to  state  that  large  mix- 
ings should  always  be  made  for  va- 
rious reasons  that  have  been  given 
previously.  The  stock  of  which  the 
warp  yarn  is  made  is  %  to  1  inch  in 
length,  generally  the  former  length  be- 
ing used.  While  the  stock  for  this 
yarn  is  sometimes  mixed  with  waste, 

THE    PERCENTAGE 
of  waste  does  not  run  as  high  as  that 
used  for  the  filling  stock.     The  stock 


23U 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


is  put  through  three  processes  of  pick- 
ing, before  which  it  passes  through  an 
opener.  Keep  the  hopper  of  this  open- 
er well  filled  w^ith  cotton  so  that  the 
fitting  or  spiked  apron  will  always 
have  a  full  load.  The  beaters  generally 
used  for  ihe  pickers  for  this  class  of 
goods  are  of  the  two-bladed  rigid  type 
and  the  speed  of  that  in  the  breaker 
picker  should  be  about  1,550  revolu- 
tions per  minute.  The  weight  of  the 
lap  at  the  front  should  be  40  pounds 
or  a  IG-ounce  lap.  These  laps  are 
doubled  four  into  one  at  the  interme- 
diate picker.  The  speed  of  this  beat- 
er for  both  warp  and  filling  yarns  is 
1,500  revolutions     per   minute.       The 

WEIGHT  OF  THE  LAP 
at  the  front  of  this  picker  is  38  pounds 
or  a  14-ounce  lap.  These  laps  are 
doubled  at  the  back  of  the  finisher 
picker  four  into  one.  The  speed  of 
this  beater  is  1,500  revolutions  per 
minute,  which  gives  the  cotton  passing 
through  about  43  beats  per  inch.  The 
total  weight  of  the  lap  at  the  front  of 
this  machine  is  39  pounds  or  a  14%- 
ounce  lap.  A  variation  of  one-half 
pound  either  side  of  standard  weight 
for  lap  is  allowed.  Those  having 
more  of  a  variation  than  this  are  put 
at  the  back  of  the  finisher  picker  and 
run  over  again,  although  care  should 
be  taken  not  to  run  two  of  these  laps 
at  the  same  time,  for  this  would  be 
more  than  apt  to  throw  the  weight  of 
the  lap  being  made  out.  Look  out  for 
the  direction  of  the  air  currents  and 
see  that  an 

EVEN  AND  UNIFORM  LAP 
is  being  made  at  the  front.  Do 
not  fool  with  the  lap  weight 
adjustments  too  much,  for  too  much 
is  worse  than  not  enough,  for 
the  former  will  keep  the  weight  of 
the  lap  jumping  all  around,  whereas 
the  latter  is  more  apt  to  get  the  same 
weight  of  laps.  These  laps  are  put  up 
at  the  card  where  the  draft  should  not 
be  more  than  90.  The  settings  of  the 
card  used  should  be  the  same  as  those 
given  In  connection  with  the  ar- 
ticle on  indigo  prints,  except  that 
of  the  feed  plate  to  the  licker- 
in.  which  should  be  set  just  a  trifle 
farther,  longer  than  the  length  of  the 
staple.  The  flats  and  doffer  should  he 
covered  with  No.  34s  wire  and  the  cyl- 
inder No.  32s  wire  fillet.  The  speed  of 
the  licker  should  be  350  revolutions  per 
minute,  Avhile  the  flats  should  make 
one  complete  revolution  every  55  min- 
utes. The  cards  should  be  stripped  at 
least 

THREE  TIMES   A  DAY 
and  an   extra  stripping  would   greatly 


improve  the  yar.:,  but  is  not  generally- 
done.  The  weight  of  the  sliver  is  65 
grains  per  yard  and  the  production  is 
975  to  1,050  iMDunds  per  week  of  60 
hours.  This  sliver  is  next  P'Ut  through 
two  processes  of  drawing  where  the 
doublings  are  6  into  1.  The  speed  of 
the  front  roll  is  400  revolutions  per 
minute  for  each  stock,  the  draft  of 
the  breaker  frame  is  5.25,  the  weight 
of  the  sliver  being  72  grains.  The  draft 
at  the  finisher  is  5.60,  the  weight  of 
the  drawing  being  72  graiins  per  yard. 
For  this  class  of  work  either  leather 
covered  or  metallic  top  rolls  may  ho- 
used. But  the  metallic  top  rolls  are  con- 
sidered by  many  to  have  a  great  many 
advantages,  one  of  the  principal  ones 
being  that  more  production  is  turned 
out  with  the  same  speed  of  roll.  No 
matter  which  top  roll  is  used,  thej^ 
should  be  watched  carefully  to  see 
that  they  are  in  perfect  condition 
FOR  MAKING  GOOD  WORK. 
It  is  also  a  good  policy  to  watch  the 
sjtop-motions.  for  it  is  these,  if 
they  are  not  in  proper  working 
order,  that  cause  single  to  be  made. 
The  sliver  for  the  filling  yarn  is  made- 
into  .40  hank  slubber  roving,  while 
that  for  the  warp  yarn  is  made  into  .50 
hank  roving.  The  filling  yarn  is  put 
through  one  more  process  of  fly  frames 
and  made  into  1  hank  roving,  which  is 
taken  to  the  mule  room  and  spun  into 
IVzS,  having  a  2.80  twist  per  inch.  The 
slubber  yarn  for  the  warp  yarn  is  put 
through  two  processes  of  fly  frames,  at 
the  first  being  made  into  1  hank  and  at 
the  second  into  3i/^  hank.  This  yarn 
is  then  taken  to  the  ring  spinning 
room  and  spun  into  15s  on  a  frame 
having  a  3-inch  gauge;  2%-inch  diam- 
eter ring;  7-inch  traverse,  IS  turns 
per  twist  and  a  spindle  speed  of  9,200 
revolutions  per  minute.  This  yarn  is 
then  spooled.  w?rped  and  then  put 
through  a  slasher. 


Dyeing  Particulars. 
HAVANNA  BROWN. 
Three  per  cent  immedial  brown  R  Rr 
3   per  cent   immedial    cutch   O;    6   per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;       30     per     cent 
Glauber's  salt;  3  per  cent  soda  ash. 
NAVY  BLUE. 
Eight   per  cent  pyrol  navy   blue;    8 
per  cent  sodium  sulphide;   3  per  cent 
soda  ash;    25  per  cent  salt. 
BOTTLE    GREEN. 
Ten  per  cent  pyrol  green  B;   10  per 
cent  sodium  sulphide;   3  per  cent  soda 
ash;  25  per  cent  salt. 
PEARL. 
One-half     per  ce^t     immedial     black 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


237 


N  R  T;  5  per  cent  salt;  1  per  cent  so- 
dium sulphide;  2  per  cent  soda  ash;  10 
per  cent  salt. 

SKY  BLUE. 

One  per  cent  tetrazo  brilliant  blue 
6  B;  2  per  cent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent 
Glauber's  salt. 

RED. 

Five  per  cent  primuline  Y;  2  per 
cent  sal  soda;    20  per  cent  Glauber's, 

Diazotize:  ly^.  per  cent  nitrite  soda; 
5  per  cent  spirits  salt. 

Develop:  2  per  cent  beta  naphthol;  2 
per  cent  soda  ash. 

SLATE. 
One  per  cent  immedial  black  N  B;  i/i 
per  cent  immedial   direct   blue  B;    20 
per  cent  salt;   2  per  cent  soda  ash;   2 
per  cent  sulphide  soda. 

ECRU. 
One-half   per   cent   immedial    yellow 
D;  1/2  per  cent  immedial  cutch  G;  1  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;  1  per  cent  soda 
ash;   10  per  cent  salt. 

BROWN. 
Eight  per  cent  katigen  brown  V;    2 
per  cent  katigen  yellow  G  G;     10    per 
cent  sodium  sulphide;  2  per  cent  soda 
ash;   30  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 

HELIOTROPE. 

Eight  per  cent  thiogeae  violet  B;  8 
per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  2  per  cent 
soda  ash;   30  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 

BLACK. 

Ten  per  cent  immedial  black  N  N; 
10  per  cent  sulphide    sodium;     3     per 
cent  soda  ash;  30  per  cent  salt. 
PINK. 

One  per  cent  erika  pink;  3  per  cent 
sal  soda;   20  per  cent  salt. 


DHOOTIES. 


Dhootie  cloths  are  a  class  of  fabrics 
used  very  extensively  in  Zanzibar,  Af- 
rica., Egypt  and  India,  for  scarfs,  tur- 
bans, and  girdle  or  body  cloths. 

They  vary  in  width  from  18  inches 
to  50  inches,  and  in  length  from  two 
to  six  yards.  The  cut  lengths  vary 
from  12  to  40  yards. 

They  are  distinguisihed  by  gaudy, 
highly  colored  borders,  running 
lengthwise,  and  headings  running 
across  the  piece  between  which  both 
warp  and  filling  yarns  are  of  gray, 
white  or  other  light  color.  Both  sides 
of  the  cloth  are  similar,  the  fabric  be- 
ing reversible.     The     borders     length- 


wise   range  from  about  one-half  inch 
to  tour  inches  in  width. 

THE  REAL  DHOOTIE 
is  a  native  eastern  hand-woven  fabric, 
in  which  the  colored  filling  interlaces 
only  with  the  border  warp  yarns.  To 
weave  such  a  fabric  the  services  of 
three  persons  are  required,  one  to 
take  care  of  the  centre  and  one  for 
each  of  the  borders. 

It  is  practically  the  only  article  of 
apparel  used  by  many  of  the  poorer 
classes  in  the  eastern  countries. 

Referring  to  these  goods  an  Indian 
textile  journal  states  that  the  follow- 
ing are  standard  sizes:  22  inches  to 
23  inches  wide,  2  yards  long;  24  inches 
to  25  inches  wide,  2%  yards  long;  26 
iriche's  to  28  inches  wide,  3  yards  long; 
29  inches  to  32  inches  wide,  3%  yards 
long;  29  inches  and  upwards  wide,  4 
to  5  yards  long. 

THE   YARNS 
employed  vary  from  SOs  to  40s  in  the 
warp,  and  from  36s  to  60s  in  the  filli.ig. 

A  great  many  of  the  goods  are  made 
with  34s  warp  and  40s  filling  in  the 
centre  of  the  goods,  the  borders  being 
about  2-50s  and  2-60s. 

Although  not  usually  the  case,  they 
are  sometimes  made  with  several  col- 
ored stripes  in  the  width  of  the  piece, 
in  addition  to  those  forming  the  bor- 
ders. 

The  cross  borders,  or  headings,  are 
sometimes  very  elaborate,  varying  in 
length  up  to  about  20  inches.  In  the 
longer  types  these  headings  are  in- 
serted every  few  inches,  whereas 
in  the  shorter  types  they  are  woven 
only  at  the  beginning  and  end  ?'f 
each   scarf.     The 

BORDERS  AND  HEADINGS 
are  intended  to  be  made  so  that  the 
colors  of  which  they  are  composed 
will  appear  as  prominent  or  solid  as 
possible.  To  accomplish  this  on  the 
side  borders  the  method  usually 
adopted  is  to  arrange  the  colors  in  the 
warp  yarns,  and  crowd  them  in  the 
reed  so  that  they  will  cover  the  filling 
as  nearly  .as  possible.  In  this  class  of 
dhooties  the  filling  is  of  the  same  color 
as  the  warp  of  the  centre  of  the  goods. 
This  filling  necessarily  shows  to  a 
greater  or  less  degree  in  the  borders 
and  is  regarded  as  an  objectionable 
feature. 

When  weaving  the  better  grades  of 
goods,  those  nearly  approaching  in 
appearance  the  native  hand-made 
goods,  another  method  is  adopted  to 
make  the  prevailing  color  in  the  bor- 
ders, ustially  red,  as  bright  as  possi- 
ble. They  are  made  on  a  loom  con- 
taining three  shuttles,  one  of  which  is 
a  fly  shuttle  and  carries  the  filling  for 


238 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


the  centres  of  the  cloth;  the  other  two 
are  small  shuttles,  made  to  work  on 
one  of  the  positive  motion  principles, 
as  on  narrow  ware  looms.  These 
two  shuttles 

WORK  ON  OPPOSITE  SIDES 
of  the  loom  and  interweave  only  with 
the  warp  yarns  constituting  the  bor- 
ders. The  small  shuttles  cross  the 
ends  at  the  same  time  as  the  fly  shut- 
tle, so  that  the  amount  of  production 
is  not  affected  either  way  by  them. 

Three  filling  forks  are  used,  one  for 
each  shuttle,  so  that  if  any  of  the  fill- 
ings break,  the  loom  is  stopped  in- 
stantly. 

The  border  shuttles  run  in  a  differ- 
ent plane,  and  move  in  the  opposite 
direction  to  the  fly  shuttle,  so  that 
only  one  pick  of  filling  passes  in  front 
of  the  filling  forks  on  the  pick  required 
to  actuate  the  stop-motion.  Catch 
threads  are  used  to  connect  the  bor- 
ders and  centres. 


LOOM  REQUIRED. 

For  plain  dhooties,  in  which  the 
borders  as  well  as  the  centres  weave 
plain,  an  ordinary  single  box  loom  is 
U9ed,uniess  cross  borders  are  required, 
when  a  box  motion  becomes  neces- 
sary. In  England,  where  these  goods 
are  extensively  manufactured,  side 
cam,  revolving  box  looms  are  usually 
used. 

For  the  better  grades,  where  the 
borders  are  interlaced  with  colored 
and  the  centres  usually  with  white  or 
gray  filling,  a  loom  of  a  special  type, 
previously  referred  to  as  having  posi- 
tively acting  and  fly  shuttles,  is  used. 
This  contains  a  dobby  or  other  head 
motion. 

Whether  for  low  or  high  grades, 
plain  or  fantcy,  the  border  warp  yarns 
are  usually  run  from  small  rollers  or 
spools,  on  account  of  being  reeded 
differently,  and  are  often  of  different 
counts  from  the  centre  yarns. 


When  the  goods  are  required  to  be 
made  with  colored  headings,  the  box 
motion  of  the  loom  is  actuated  to  in- 
sert different  colors  of  filling  as  may 
be  necessary,  the  loom  weaving  the 
cross  borders,  or  headings,  and  centre 
automatically.  If  a  fringe  is  desired, 
It  is  made  in  the  usual  manner. 

The  figure  ilustrates  one  border 
and  part  of  the  white  centre  of  a  cheap 
dhootie  cloth,  in  which  the  white  fill- 
ing interlaces  with  both  centre  and 
border. 

The  border  is  2  5-16  inches  wide  and 
contains  five  colors,  red,  green,  yel- 
low, white  and  orange.  The  outer 
stripe  of  red  is  1  3-16  inches  wide. 
The  count  of  the  centre  cloth  is  52x46, 
and  is  reeded  two  ends  per  dent.  The 
fancy  weave  portion  is  arranged  one 
end  of  green  and  one  end  of  red,  alter- 
nately, and  is  reeded  five  ends  per 
dent.  The  remainder  of  the  border  is 
reeded  four  ends  per  dent.  With  the 
exception  of  the  32  ends  working  as 
extra  warp  the  weave  of  the  fabric 
is  plain.  Eight  white  ends  working 
as  four  divide  the  border  from  the 
centre.  The  border  ends  are  ply 
yarns.  The  centre  ends  and  the  fill- 
ing are  single. 


Carding  and   Spinning   Particulars. 

The  yarns  of  which  dhooties  are 
made  would  be  manufactured  in 
mills  having  the  equipment  of  ma- 
chinery found  in  the  second  division 
of  mills  as  given  in  a  previous  article. 
The  dhootie  which  is  taken  for  an 
example  will  be  supposed  to  be  com- 
posed of  34s  warp  and  40s  filling  for 
the  centre  and  2-60s  for  the  borders. 
These  yarns  are  made  from  the  fol- 
lowing cottons:  The  2-60s  is  made 
from  1%-inch  American  cotton  and  is 
combed.  The  40s  and  34s  are  made 
from  a  1  3-16-'inch  staple  American 
cotton  and  may  be 

EITHER  COIMBED  OR  CARDED. 
For  this  article  we  will  consider  that 
they  are  carded,  but  as  it  is  desirable 
that  the  yarn  shall  be  as  free  as  pos- 
sible from  neps  the  speeds  and  set- 
tings of  the  card  will  be  different  from 
those  genierailly  used  for  this  count  of 
carded  yarn.  All  three  cottons  may 
be  either  mixed  by  hand  or  by  ma- 
chine; the  advantages  of  machine  mix- 
ing (by  means  of  a  bale  breaker)  have 
been  already  previously  given.  Each 
mixing  should  of  course  be  in  separate 
bins  and  as  large  as  possible,  so  as  to 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


239 


cause  as  little  variation  ao  possible  in 
tlie  finished  yarn.  It  is  also  an  im- 
portant point  to  se©  ttiat  thei  different 
bales  are  intermixed.  The  cottons  are 
put  through  an  opener  and  three  proc- 
esses of 

PICKING  MACHINERY. 
The  good  waste  is  mixed  in  with  the 
raw  stock  as  it  is  oo'llected,  but  care 
should  be  used  to  scatter  the  waste,  so 
that  it  w'il'l  be  eivenly  divided  all  over 
the  mixing.  The  hopper  of  the  opener 
sihould  be  kept  full  of  raw  stock  all 
the  time  for  reasons  given  in  previous 
articles.  The  cotton  sihoudd  leave  the 
opemer  and  be  delivered  on  the  lattice 
ajpron  of  the  breaker  in  a  fluffy  state, 
and  if  the  hopper  has  been  kept  full 
all  the  time  it  will  alsoi  be  fairly  evem, 
i.  e.,  if  ea,oh  yard  of  cotton  passed  to 
the  feed  roll  is  weighed,  a  great 
deal  of  variation  will  not  be  found. 
The  beaters  of  the  pickers  used  for  this 
class  of  goods!  are  generally  of  the  rig- 
id two-bladed  type,  althougtu  a  great 
many  are  using  the  pin  heater.  When 
the  latter  is  used,  it  does  not  require 
as  high  a  fan  speed  as  the  rigid  form 
of  beater;  this  is  due  to  its  wide  arms, 
and  as  it  has  three  of  these,  it  makes 

CONSIDERABLY    MORE    DRAFT 
than  the  two-bladed  type     of     beater. 

The  speed  of  the  beater  for  1  3-16- 
inch  stock  for  this  class  of  goods  is  1,- 
550  revolutions  per  minute,  and  for 
the  1%-inch  stock  is  1,450  revolutionis 
per  minute.  The  total  weight  of  lap 
at  the  breakeir  is  40  pounds  for  all 
staples  or  a  16-ounce  lap.  These  laps 
are  put  up  at  the  intermediate  picker 
and  doubled  4  into  1.  The^  speed  of 
the  beater  of  this  machine  is  1,475  rev- 
olutions per  minute  for  1  3-16-inch 
stock  and  1,425  for  1%-inch  stock.  The 
total  weight  of  the  lap  is  37%  pounds 
or  a  12-ounce  lap  for  l%-'inch  stock, 
and  a  10-ounce  lap  for  1  3-16-inch 
stock.  These  laps  are  put  up  at  the 
finisher  picker  and  doubled  as  before, 
4  into  1.  The  speed  of  this  beater  is 
1,475  revolutions  per  minute  for  1  3-16- 
inch  staple,  and  1,400  revolutions  per 
minute  for  1%-inch  staple.  The 
total  weight  of  the  lap  is  39  pounds 
for  1  3-16-inch  staple  stock  and  35 
pounds  for  1%-inoh  staple.  A  variation 
of  half  a  pound  either  side  of  stand- 
ard weight  is  allowed.  All  finished 
laps  that  vary  from  their  standard 
weig'ht  more  than  this  are  put  back 
and  run  through  the  finis'her  picker 
again.  At  this  machine  tne  cut  rov- 
ing waste  is  also  mixed  in.  Sometimes 
this  is  done  by  taking  out  two  laps 
at  the  back,  the  two  middle  ones,  and 
the  cut  waste  spread  evenly  over  the 
space    thus    made.     It    is 


A  BETTER  METHOD 
to  use  a  roving  waste  picker,  as  then 
all  the  twist  is  taken  out  of  the  rov- 
ing. After  passing  through  this  rov- 
ing picker  the  cotton  is  made  into  a 
lap  at  the  breaker  or  intermediate 
machine  and  is  then  put  through  the 
finisiher  picker,  whien  it  is  used  as  fol- 
lows: three  laps  of  raw  stock  to  one 
lap  cut  roving  waste.  The  weight  per 
j'ard  at  the  front  of  the  finisher  picker 
is  as  follows:  for  1%-inoh  stock,  12i/^ 
ounces;  for  1  3-16-inch  stock,  14 
ounces  yer  yard.  The  cotton  next 
passes  to  the  card.  The  cards  for  all 
lengths  of  staples  will  be  set  alike  for 
reasoins  previously  given.  Set  doffer 
to  cylinder  with  5-l,000th&-inich  gauge. 
Set  under  screen  as  follows:  at  licker- 
in  with  12-l,000ths-in)ch.  gauge;  middle 
to  34-l,000ths  and  front  V4,  of  an  inch. 
Licker-in  to  cylinder  w'ith  7-l,000ths 
of  an  inch.  Licker-in  screen  to  lick- 
er-in, 3-16ths  of  an  inch.  Set  bottom 
licker-in  knife  with  5-l,000ths  gauge, 
top  knife  to  10-l,000ths  of  an  inch 
gauge.  Set  feed  plate  to  licker-in  to 
7-l,000ths  of  an  inch  gauge,  and  top 
flats  to  12-l,000ths  of  an  inch  gauge. 
The  speed  of  the  licker-in  should  be 
300  revolutions  per  minute.  The  flats 
make  one  complete  revolution  every  40 
minutes  for  all  sitock.  The  iroduction 
should  be  500  pounds  for  2-60s  yarn 
and  600  pounds  for  the  other  yarns. 
Cards  should  be  stripped  three  times 
a  day  and  ground,  at  least  once  a 
month,  when  the  grinders  should  be 
allowed  to  stay  on  at  least  half  a 
day.  The  cards  should  be  reset  after 
grinding.  Special  care  should  be  tak- 
en to  see  that  the  top  flats  are  sharp 
and  are  ground  evenly  and  do  not 
have  more  taken  off  the  toe  than 
the  heel,  as  is  generally  the  case  un- 
less great  care  is  taken.  The  weight 
of  the  sliver  is  50  grains  per  yard  for 
each    staple.    After    passing    the   card 

THE  PROCESSES 
of  the  stocks  differ.  We  will  first  fol- 
low the  course  of  the  carded  staples. 
These  are  put  through  three  processes 
of  drawing,  the  front  roll  speed  at 
each  process  being  350  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  weight  of  the  sliver 
at  the  front  is  70  grains  per 
yard.  Great  care  should  be  taken  to 
see  that  the  stop-motions  are  in  per- 
fect working  order,  otherwise  a  great 
deal  of  trouble  will  result  in  single 
and  double.  At  the  slubber  the  sliver 
is  made  into  .60  hank  roving.  This 
roving  is  then  put  through  two  proces- 
ses of  fly  frames.  At  the  first  interme- 
diate it  is  made  into  2  hank  roving 
and  at  the  second  into  7  hank  for 
the  34s  warp  and  8  hank  for  40s  filling. 


240 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


The  card  sliver  "for  the  2-60s  yarn  is 
combed  and  the  general  sequence  of 
processes  is  as  follows:  Sliver  lap  ma- 
oMne,  where  it  is  doubled  14  into  1 
and  has  a  draft  of  about  2;  a  yard  of 
lap  aJt  the  front  weighing  300  grains 
per  yard  for  an  8%-inch  lap.  Six  of 
these  laps  are  put  up  at  the  ribbon 
lap  machine  and  made  into  a  260 
grain  lap  at  the  front.  Keep  top  leath- 
er rolls  in  good  condition  and  well 
varnished.  Six  laps  from  the  ribbon 
lap  machine  are  put  up  at  the  comber, 
if  it  is  a  six-head  machine,  or  eight 
laps  if  it  is  an  eighit-ihead  machine, and 
the  weight  of  the  finished  sliver  is  45 
grains  per  yard.      The 

SPEED  OF  THIS  COMBER 

is  90  nips  per  minute,  the  per  cent  of 
waste  taken  out  being  IG.  Keep  the 
detaching  rolls  well  varnished,  recipes 
for  which  have  been  given  in  previous 
articles  as  well  as  a  means  for  keep- 
ing the  laps  of  the  leather  from  split- 
ting. After  passing  the  comber  the 
sliver  is  put  through  two  processes  of 
leather  covered  top  roll  drawing 
frames,  the  doublings  being  8  into  1 
at  the  breaker  and  6  into  1  at  the  fin- 
isher. The  weight  of  the  sliver  at  the 
finisher  drawing  is  70  grains  per  yard. 
This  is  made  into  .50  han.k  roving  at 
the  slubber  and  is  then  put  through 
three  processesi  of  fly  frames,  the  hank 
ro\'ing  at  each  being  as  follows:  First, 
1  hank;  second,  3l^  hank,  and  fine 
frame,  12  hank.  This  is  then  taken  to 
the  ring  spinning  room  and  spun  into 
60s  on  a  frame  with  a  1%-inch  diame- 
ter Ting,  5-inch  traverse,  and 
a  spindle  speed  of  8,000  revolu- 
tions per  minute;  after  w*hich  it  is 
doubled  into  2-60s.  The  roving  for 
the  40s  filling  is  spun  on  a  r'ing  frame 
having  a  1%-inch  diameter  ring,  5V2- 
inch  traverse  and  a  spindle  speed  of 
8,800  revolutions  per  minute,  and  then 
six)oled  and  warped  and  put  through  a 
slastier.  The  roving  for  warp  is  spun 
into  34s  on  a  warp  spinning  frame 
with  a  1%-incli  diameter  ring,  6i/^-inch 
tra.verse,  and  a  spindle  speed  of  10,200 
revolutions  per  minute,  after  whicli  it 
is  taken  to  the  conditioning  room. 


Dyeing   Particulars. 

BLUE. 

Three  per  cent  immedial  indone  B; 
2  per  cent  immedial  indone  3  B;  5  per 
cent  sodium  sulphide;  2  per  cent  soda 
ash;   30  per  ceni  Glauber's. 

GREEN. 

Five  per  cent  immedial  yellow  D;  5 
per  cent  immedial   indone   B;    10  per 


cent  sodium  sulphide;  3  per  cent  soda 
as'h;   30  per  cent  Glauber's. 
RED. 
Six  per  cent  primuline;   30  per  cent 
Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal    soda,  rinse; 
diazotize:  2^/^  per    cent    nitrite    soda; 
rinse;    develop:   2  per  cent  beta  naph- 
thol,  rinse  and  soap  at  150  degrees  F. 
YELLOW. 
Mordant  with   tannine     and     tartar 
emetic,  rinse;    dye  with  3V^   per  cent 
thioflavlne  T  and  rinse. 

LIGHT  GREEN. 
Dye  yellow  with  thioflavlne  T;   and 
dj^e  on  top  with  2  per    cent    brillianl: 
green  Y;  rinse  and  give  a  weak  soap- 
ing. 

ORANGE. 

Dye  with  6  per  cent  primuline  after- 
treat  with  Vz  degree  Tw.  solution  of 
chloride  of  lime. 

LIGHT  BROWN. 

Four  per  cent  thion  orange  N;  4 
per  cent  Sulphide  soda;  2  per  cent  so- 
da ash;  30  per  cent  Glauber's  salt;  of- 
tertreat  with.  2  per  cent  sulphate  of 
copper. 

MYRTLE  GREEN. 

Eight  per  cent  thion  green  G;  2  per 
cent  thion  yellow  G;   2  per  cent  thion 
green  B;  10  per  cent  sulphide  soda;  3 
per  cent  soda  ash;  25  per  cent  salt. 
WINE. 

Eight  per  cent  thiogene  red  0;  8  per 
cent  sulphide  soda;  3  per  cent  soda 
ash;  25  per  cent  salt. 

BLUE  BLACK. 

Ten  per  cent  immedial  brilliant 
black  B;  10  per  cent  sulphide  soda;  3 
per  cent  soda  ash;   25  per  cent  salt. 


DNEQDALLY  REEDED  STRIPES 

Under  the  above  heading  may  be  in- 
cluded an  extensive  type  of  co^tton  fab- 
rics, variously  known  as  satin  or  sat- 
een stripes,  doria  stripes,  etc. 

They  are  made  in  all  grades,  from 
medium  to  fine,  and  used  for  many 
purposes,  such  as  dress  fabrics,  cur- 
tain hangings,  etc.,  and  are  iisually 
shown  in  all  white  or  solid  colors. 

They  are  characterized  by  promi- 
nent stripe  effects  which  appear  to 
stand  up  from  the  ground  of  the  cloth. 

The  raised  stripes  are  produced  by 
crowding  more  ends  in  a  given  space 
than  are  contained  in  an  equal  space 
occupied  by  the  ground  ends  and  by 
weaving   them    differently.    As   a  rule 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


241 


the  yarns  forming  the  raised  stripes 
are  woven  in  satin  or  twill  order, 
warp  flush  weaves,  while  those  form- 
ing the  grouad  weave  plain. 

Theoretically,  warp  ends  weaving 
plain  should  take  up  or  contract  in 
length  faster  than  ends  weaving  twill 
or  satin,  on  account  of  the  greater 
number  of  interlacingis.  This  applies 
to  cloths  in  which  each  dent  contains 
the  same  numiber  of  ends  throughout 
the  entire  width  of  cloth. 

It  has  been  found  in  practice  that 
when  weaving  a  fabric  containing  sec- 
tions reeded,  say,  two  ends  per  dent, 
and  others  four  or  five  ends  per  dent, 
the  yanus  that  are  crowded  in  the  reed 
will  contract  more  than  those  reeded 
two  ends  per  dent.      For    example,  a 

A       B    A   C   A    B 

DiDaaBDa  naaBiiB  na  anaa  cia  aaaaaa 
aaaGaaaa  aaaaaa  an  aaaa  aa  aaaaaa 
aaaaaaaa  aaaaaa  aa  aaaa  aa  aagaaB 
aaaaaaaa  aaaaao  aa  aaaa  aa  aaaaag 
oaaaaaaa  aaaaaa  aa  aaaa  am  anaaaa 
a  jaaaaao  aaaaaa  aa  aaaa  aa  aaaaaa 
aaaaaaaa  uaaaaa  na  aaaa  aa  naaaaa 
aaaaaaaa  aaaaaa  aa  aaaa  ma  Baaaga 
aaaaaaaa  aaaaaa  na  aaaa  db  aagaBB 
Baaaaaaa  aaaaaa  aa  aaaa  aa  aaaaag 
aaaaaaaa  aaaaaa  aa  aaaa  ga  agaaaa 
aaaaaaaa  aaaaaa  aa  aaaa  aa  aaaaaa 
6  times   2  times  5  times    2  times 

Fig  1. 

warp  stripe  interlaced  in  five  ends  sat- 
in order  and  reeded  five  ends  per 
dent  would  contract  in  length  aboiut 
as  fast  as  the  yarn®  weaving  plain  in 
the  same  fabric,  if  the  latter  were  of 
the  same  counts  of  yam  and  reeded 
two  ends  per  dent.  This  fact  explains 
the  reason  why  satin  stripe  fabrics  are 
usually  woven  from  one  beam. 

A  characteristic  weave  is  shown  in 
Fig.   1. 

The  warp  lay-out  of  one  repeat  of 
the  pattern  is  as  follows: 

Ends.  Dents.                         Harnesses. 

48  24                          1  to  6 

12  2                          7  10  i-i 

2  11  and  2  i 

4  1                          13  to  16  J    5     times. 

2  11  and  z 

12  2                          7  to  12 

Selvedges  on   harnesses  1   and   2. 

The  chain  draft  is  shown  in  Fig.  2. 

In  Fig.  1  sections  A  weave  plain,  sec- 
tions B  weave  6  end  warp  satin,  and 
sections  C  weave  broken  crow,  warp 
face. 

When  combining  weaves  in  this 
manner  one  of  the  principal  points  to 
consider  is  to  bring  the  warp  float 
of  one  section  opposite  the  filling  float 
of  the  adjoining  section,  or,  as  it  is 
termed,  they  shcmld  be  made  to  "cut" 
each  other  as  well  as  possible.  When 
this  is  done,  the  stripes  have  a  more 
distinct  and  cleaner  cut  appearance 
than  when  it  is  ignored. 

The  construction  data  of  the  sample 
under  consideration  are:  warp,  45s; 
filling,    40s   Egyptian;    finished    width, 


28  inches;  width  in  reed,  29.9  inches; 
ends  in  warp,  2S5G;  sky  reed,  76. 
This  represents  the  proportional 
number  of  ends  per  inch  in  the  plain 
section.  Average  sley,  102.  This  in- 
dicates the  average  number  of  ends 
per  inch  in  the  entire  width  of  cloth. 
Picks  per  inch,  80. 

These  goods  may  be  woven  on  a 
single  box  dobby  loom,  the  warp  yarns 
being  of  one  count,  and  one  filling 
only  being  required. 

The  fabrics  are  found  in  many  va- 
riations of  patterns  and  qualities,  and 
are  subjected  to  suitable  methods  of 
finishing,  according  to  the  use  to 
which  they  are  intended  to  be  put. 


Carding  and  Spinning   Particulars. 

The  mills  that  make  unequally  reed- 
ed stripes  will  be  found  in  the  second 
division,  and  while  the  count  of  yarn 
varies  to  a  great  extent  for  this  class 
of  goods,  a  good  average  count  would 
be  45s  wairp  yarn  and  40s  filling.  It  is 
not  our  intention  to  say  much  about 
the  cotton  warp  yarn  otherwise  than 
a  few  general  remarks,  i.  e.,  that  the 
yarn  is  of  11^4  to  1%  inch  American 
stock  and  carded,  the  hank  .  rovings 
being  as  follows:  for  the  slubber  .55 
hank,  first  intermediate,  2.50,  and  for 
the  fine  fly  frame  10  hank,  and  is  ring 
spun  into  45s  yarn.  Further  partic- 
ulars for  making  this  count  of  yarn 
may  be  found  in  previous  articles  deal- 
ing with  the  same  length  of  stock  and 

Top. 

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BaBaBaBBBaaaaaaa 
aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa 
anaaaaaaaaaaaaaa 

aaGBaB>a"""""'=>*> 
■nBaaaaaBaBaaaaa 
aaaaaaaaaaaagBBB 
BaaGaaaaBaaaaaaB 
naaaaaBaaaBBBaBB 
BaBaaaaaBBagaBBg 
naaaDaanaaBBgaBB 
BOBaBaBBBDBBaaaa 

Fis:  2. 

making  counts  of  yarn  from  35s  to  50s. 
In  this  article  it  is  our  intention  to 
deal   with 

THE  FILLING  YARN 
which  is  made  from  Egyptian  cotton 
of  1%-inch  staple.  On  account  of  its  pe- 
culiar nature  EgA'ptian  cotton  is  es- 
pecially adapted  for  tilling  yarns  and 
it  is  a  general  custom  lo  make  the 
filling  yarns  of  this  kind  of  cotton,  al- 
though it  is  not  done  in  all  styles  of 
fabrics,  and  while  the  filling  yams  of 
fabrics  previously  described  might 
equally  as  well  have  heen  made  out  of 
Egj^ptian  cotton,  still  for  some  special 
reason  the  kind  of  cotton  given  for 
filling  yarns  has  been  selected.  The 
Egyptian  bale  is  about  ?>00  pounds 
heavier    than    the    American    bale,    so 


242 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


that  so  large  a  number  will  not  be  re- 
quired in  tbe  mixing,  which  may  be 
done  by  hand  or  by  the  use  of  a  bale 
breaker.  It  will  also  be  found  that 
Egyptian  cotton  is  much  more  easily 
handled  than  other  kinds  of  cotton. 
By  this  we  mean  that  it  gives  less 
trouble  to  oiperate  it  at  the  different 
processes.  The  mixing  should  be 
made  in  the  same  manner  as  described 
in  previous  articles.  The  cotton  for 
this  stock  is  put  through  three  proc- 
esses of  picking  and  an  opener.  The 
beater  used  at  each  process  is  gener- 
ally the  two-bladed  rigid  type.     The 

SPEED  OF  THE  BEATER 
at  the  breaker  picker  is  1,450  revolu- 
tions per  minute;  at  the  intermediate 
picker  1,375  revolutions  per  minute, 
and  at  the  finisher  picker  1,200  revo- 
lutions per  minute.  The  total  weight 
of  a  lap  at  the  breaker  picker  is  40 
pounds  or  a  20-ounce  lap;  at  interme- 
diate picker,  38  pounds  or  a  12-ounce 
lap,  and  at  the  finisher  picker,  35 
pounds  OT  a  12%-ounce  lap.  The  in- 
structions given  in  previous  articles 
for  picking  should  be  followed.  At 
the  card  the  draft  for  this  stock  should 
not  be  less  than  120.  The  flats  shoula 
make  one  complete  revolution  every 
30  minutes,  and  the  speed  of  the  lick- 
er-in  should  be  about  300  revolutions 
per  minute.  The  weight  of  the  sliver 
at  the  front  should  be  45  grains  and 
the  production  for  a  week  of  60  hours 
should  be  niO't  more  than  500  pounds. 
The  setting  points  should  be  set  to  the 
same  gauges  as  given  in  last  article, 
while  the  particulars  given  for  grind- 
ing, cleaning,  stripping  and  oiling  that 
have  already  been  given  for  the  same 
length  of  staple  of  American  stock 
may  be  used.  Egyptian  cotton  is  eas- 
ily combed  and, as  one  overseer  puts  it, 
might  be  combed  with  a  rake;  still 
considerable  care  should  be  given  to  it 
to  see  that  it  is  properly  done.  The 
particulars  for  sliver  lap  machine,  rib- 
bon lap  machine  and  six-head  comber 
for  an  8%4nch  lap  are  as  follows: 
Sliver  lap  machine  doubles  14  into  1 
and  weight  per  yard  of  lap  is  295 
grains;  at  the  ribbon  lap  machine  the 
doubling  is  6  inito  1,  the  weight  per 
yard  being  260  grains;  at  the  comber 
the  doubling  isi  6  inito  1,  the  weight 
of  the  silver  is  47  grains.  The 
percentage  of  waste  taken  out  at  the 
comber  for  this  stock  fbr  fabric  named 
is  16.  Use  settings  and  turnings  giv- 
en in  a  previous  article. 

THE  COMBER  SLIVER 
is  next  put  through  two  processes  of 
drawing,  the  v/eight  per  yard   at  the 
front  being  70   grains   per   yard   with 
doublings  of  C  into  1  at  each  process. 


Use  either  metallic  or  leather  top  cov- 
ered rolls,  this  stock  running  equal- 
ly well  on  each.  At  the  slubber  the 
sliver  is  made  into  .50  hank  roving 
and  from  here  it  passes  through  three 
processes  of  fly  frames,  the  hank  rov- 
ing at  each  being  as  follows:  First 
intermediate,  1  hank;  second  interme- 
diate, 3  hank,  and  fine  frame,  10  hank. 
The  twist  gear  used  at  each  process 
should  be  one  tooth  smaller  than  that 
used  for  the  same  hank  of  roving 
made  from  American  cotton.  Watdi 
the  rolls,  both  top  and  bottom,  to  see 
that  they  are  properly  seit.  After  leav- 
ing the  fine  frame  the  roving  may  be 
either  mule  or  ring  spun,  sometimes 
one  and  sometimes  the  other  being 
preferred  for  certain  reasons.  For 
this  fabric  the  roving  is  generally  ring 
spun.  For  sipinning  40s  filling  yam  of 
1  5-16-inch  staple  Egyptian  cotton  use 
a  frame  with  a  2%-inch  gauge,  IVz- 
inch  diameter  ring,  and  a  5%-inch 
traverse,  and  spindle  speed  of  8,800 
revolutions  per  minute. 


Dyeing   Particulars. 
PEARL. 
Four  ounces  immedial  black  N  R  T: 
y2   per  cent  sulphide  sodium;     1     per- 
cent soda  ash;  10  per  ceot  Glauber's. 
SLATE. 
One  per  cent  diamine  black  B  H;  4 
ounces  diamine  fast  yellow   B;    1  per 
cent  sal  soda;   20  per    cent     Glauber's 
salt. 

FAWN. 
One  per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow  B; 
4   ounces  diamineral     brown     G;      Vz 
ounce  diamine  brown  B;    1  pound  sal 
soda;    20    per   cent   Glauber's. 
SCARLET. 
Five  per  cent  diamine  scarlet  B;   2 
per  cent  sal  soda;  30  per    cent    Glau- 
ber's. 

RED. 

Four  per  cent  diamine  fast  red  F; 
2  per  cent  sal  soda;  30  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's. 

MYRTLE   GREEN. 
Four  per  cent  benzo  green  G  G;   % 
per   cent   chrysophenine;    %    per   cent 
benzo  fast  bl'ack;  3  per  cent  sal  soda; 
30  per  cent  Glauber's. 

HELIOTROPE. 
Two  per  cent  tetrazo  lilac  B;   2  per 
cent  sal  soda;  25  per  cent  Glauber's. 
LIGHT    BROWN. 
Two  and  one-half  per  cent  diamine 
brown  3  G;  2  per  cent  sal  sOda;  25  per 
cent  Glauber's. 

DARK  BROWN. 
Three  per  cent  diamineral  brown  G; 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


243 


%  per  cent  diamine  brown  M;  1  per 
cent  diamine  catechine  B;  2  per  cent 
sal  soda;  30  per  cent  Glauber's. 
NAVY  BLUE. 
Six  per  cent  diamine  dark  blue  B; 
2  per  cent  sal  soda;  25  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's salt 

WINE. 
Five  per  cent  diamine  Bordeaux  B; 
yz  per  cent  diamine  fas.t  red  F;   3  per 
cent  sal  soda;  30  per  cent  Glauber's. 
PINK. 
One-balf  per  cent  Erika  pink  G;    1 
per  cent  sal  soda;  10  per  cent  salt. 
SKY  BLUE. 
One  per  ceat  diamine  sky  blue  F  F; 
%  per  cent  sal  soda;  15  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's. 

BLACK. 
Ten  per  cent  immedial  black  N  N;  2 
per  cent  soda  ash;  10  per  cent  sodium 
sulphide;  30  per  cent  Glauber's. 


STOP  PEG  CHECKS, 


The  above  term  is  used  in  cotton 
mills  to  indicate  a  type  of  fabric  ex- 
tensively made  for  dress  goods  and 
decorative  purposes.  In  the  dry  goods 
trade  the  goods  are  found  under  va- 
rious names. 

They  are  an  extension  of  the  type  of 
goods,  unequally  reeded  stripes,  ex- 
plained in  the  last  article, and  are  char- 
acterized by  certain  yarns  in  both  warp 
and  filling  appearing  to  stand  up  from 
the  ground  cloth  in  regular  or  irregu- 
lar block  effects.  They  are  usually 
woven  white  and  bleached  or  dyed  as 
may  be  required. 

This  article  is  really  supplementary 
to  the  last  one,  the  points  referred  to 
there  applying  equally  as  well  here. 

A  check  is  almost  always  formed  by 
a  crossover  effect  in  the  filling  in  con- 
nection with  a  distinguishing  stripe  in 
the  warp.  If  the  effect  warp  way  is 
not  as  prominent  or  more  prominent 
than  the  effect  filling  way,  a  barry  pat- 
tern is  produced,  objectionable  in  al- 
most all  classes  of  textile  fabrics. 

In  stop  peg  checks  the  effect  warp 
way  is  formed  by  crowding  some  of 
the  ends  and  weaving  them  in  a  differ- 
ent manner  from  the  others,  as  in  un- 
equally reeded  stripes.  The  effect  fill- 
ing way  is  formed  by  interlacing  the 
yarns  in  a  certain  manner,  say  plain, 
for  a  certain  number  of  picks,  then 
changing  the  order  of  interlacing  to 
another  weave,  say  a  filling  sateen, 
for  a  definite  number  of  picks. 

When  weaving  the  plain  section,  the 


take-up  motion  of  the  loom  works  in 
the  ordinary  manner,  whereas  when 
weaving  the  filling  satin  section  it  Is 
disconnected,  as  required,  so  that 
more  picks  will  be  inserted  in  a  given 
space. 

The  device  used  for  disconnecting 
the  take-up  motion  is  usually  connect- 
ed to  one  of  the  levers  of  the  dobby 
and  called  into  action  by  pegs  placed 
in  the  pattern  chain;  hence  the  term, 
stop  peg  checks. 

A  friction  let-off  is  preferable  to  a 
positive  let-off  motion  for  this  class 
of  goods.  Fig.  1  illustrates  an  exam- 
ple of  the  simpler  type,  consisting  of 
sections  of  plain,  warp  sateen  and  fill- 
ing sateen.  The  analysis  of  the  sam- 
ple under  consideration  shows  the  fol- 
lowing data:  Warp,  60's;  filling,  90's; 
cloth  width,  27.5  inches.  In  the  plain 
sections   there   are,   in   proportion,    72 


T! 


Fig.    1. 

ends  and  72  picks  per  inch.  The  av- 
erage number  of  ends  and  picks  per 
inch  is  114  each. 

The  warp  lay-out  for  one  pattern  Is 
as  follows: 

Ends.      Dents. 

24  12    =    2  ends  per  dent 

30  5    =    6  ends  per  dent 

34  12    =    2  ends  per  dent 

30  5    =    6  ends  per  dent 

108  34 

One  warp  only  has  been  used. 
The  harness  draft  is  shown  at  Pig. 
2\ 


244 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY, 


The  chain  draft,  exclusive  of  sel- 
vedge, is  shown  in  Fig.  S.  In  this  fig- 
ure marks  \  correspond  to  the  plain 
sections  in  the  cloth;  dots  corre- 
spond to   the   warp  satin   sections   in 


/  /  /  /  /' 

I  /  4  /      / 

/  /  //• 

'  /  /  /  / 

/  /  /  /  /  X 

o  /  /■  /  /  4  n 
/  /  /   // 
/  //   // 

//  /  /  / 

^  ///  /  * 

9/  /  /  /  /      > 

/  /  /  /      • 

/  /  /  /  / 
//  /•/ 
/  /   /// 

/  f  /  t  /  < 


V.   \   •   •••••-'•••• 

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f  /  i    /  • 

///    /  / 

/    /  //  / 

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■    /  /  /■/    / 

//    /// 

/  /    /  /  / 

/  /  /  / 1 

*  /  /  /  1 

/  /  /    /  / 

/  /  /    /  / 

K  /  /■  f  f  / 

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TWt» 


\      >•      ••      •••••      • 

s      s      •••••       ••••• 

s.     V     •••     ••»•»     •• 

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s       \       •       •••••       ••«• 

V        V        ••••«         •«•#« 

N        \        0       •«••«        •*«• 

\      V«««t      ••••«      • 

X       V       »•        ••*•#        »«• 

V     \     •«#♦#      ••«•• 

\       V       t**        •«•••       •« 

V       %       «       •••••       4«       • 


I 
I 


I   V  J  4    s  6  7   a  <j        «       /J       'S'      /? 

'0     <i     /♦     IS     ra 

Pigr.  3. 


the  cloth;  circles  correspond  to  the 
filling  satin  sections  in  the  cloth; 
crosses  correspond  to  the  filling  satin 


sections  in  the  cloth  where  the  same 
cross  over  the  ends  crowded  in  the 
reed,  this  is  a  filling  satin  with  two 
picks  in  a  shed;  marks  /  correspond 
to  the  warp  satin  sections  in  the  cloth 
where  the  same  cross  over  the  picks 
forming  filling  satin  with  the  other- 
wise plain  ends;  solid  marks  indicate 
stop  pegs. 

The  warp  satin  sections  are  woven 
two  picks  in  a  shed  when  the  other 
sections  of  ends  are  weaving  filling 
satin.  On  these  picks  the  take-up  mo- 
tion is  out  of  connection  on  20  out  of 
30  picks,  the  entire  30  picks  occupying 
only  as  much  space  as  10  picks  in  the 
plain  sections. 

The  positions  of  the  stop  pegs  can- 
not always  be  determined  before  the 
cloth  is  being  woven.  When  a  change 
is  made  from  plain  to  filling  satin  it  is 
not  necessary  to  insert  stop  pegs  for 
a  few  picks  because  the  picks  go  in 
easier  in  the  filling  satin  sections. 

LOOM  REQUIRED. 

An  ordinary  single  box  dobby  loom 
fixed  with  device  referred  to  may  be 
used  when  weaving  these  goods.  One 
warp  only  is  required. 

Unequally  reeded  stripes  and  stop 
peg  checks  may  be  placed  in  the  novel- 
ty class,  being  in  demand  one  season 
and  out  of  demand  the  next;  also  on 
account  of  varying  considerably  in 
pattern  and  quality.  As  such  they  are 
usually  woven  on  looms  fitted  up  for 
weaving  from  two  or  more  warp 
beams. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  yarns  for  stop  peg  checks  are 
made  in  mills  of  the  second  and  third 
divisions  of  mills  ais  given  in  a  pre- 
vious article.  The  counts  of  yam  used 
for  this  fabric  differ  according  to  the 
quality  of  the  fahric  desired,  and  for 
the  carding  and  spinning  particulars 
we  will  consider  the  sample  to  be 
made  up  of  60s  warp  and  90s  filling 
yarns.  Both  of  these  counts  of  yarn 
will  be  combed,  the  wajrp  yarn  being 
made  from  1%-inch  Allen  or  peeler 
cotton  and  the  filling  yarn  from  either 
Egyptian  of  li/4-inch  staple  or,  as  is 
more  general,  from  Sea  Island  cot- 
ton of  1%-inch  staple.  The  processes 
used  for  the  Sea  Island  cotton  will  first 
be  described,  and  as  the  processes  for 
1%-inch  American  cotton  have  already 
been  described  only  tflose  points  that 
differ  from  those  already  explained 
will  be  given.     In  mixing    Sea     Island 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


245 


cotton  a  great  deal  of  care  should 
be  taken  to  see  that  all  bales  put 
into  the  mixture  staple  the  same. 
At  the  mixing  bins  the  good  sliver  and 
picker  waste  fro^m  the  machines  up  to 
the  slubber  will  be  mixed  in.    As 

SEA   ISL.\ND   COTTON 

has  to  be  handled  as  Idttle  as  possible, 
on  account  of  the  easewith which  neps 
are  put  in,  generally  only  one  process 
of  picking  and  an  opener  is  used,  al- 
though some  mills  use  two  processes. 
If  only  one  process  is  used,  the  speed 
of  the  beater  should  be  just  high 
enough  to  beat  out  the  dirt,  and  this 
varies  according  to  the  grade  and 
quality  of  the  raw  stock.  For  a  fair 
average  a  two-bladed  rigid  type  of 
beater  should  make  about  1,200  revo- 
lutions per  minute,  w'hich  will  give 
the  cotton  passing  through  about  29 
beats  or  blows  per  inch.  The  lattice 
apron  of  this  machine  is  measured  off 
and  marked  imto  yard  spaces,  and  the 
cotton  as  it  comes  from  the  apron  is 
weighed  and  spread  evenly  over  this 
space.  The  lap  at  the  front  end 
weighs  30  pounds  or  a  lO-ounce  lap 
per  yard.  A  variation  of  only  six 
ounces  either  side  of  standard  weight 
is  allowed  for  this  cotton.  At  the 
card  the  same  care  is  taken  to  prevent 
neps  and  the  speed  of  certain  warts  is 
changed  to  help  this  result.  The 
speed  of  the  llcker-in  is  reduced  about 
50  revolutions  per  minnte  from  that 
when  American  cotton  is  used.    The 

SPEED  OF  THE  FLATS 

is  increased  to  make  one  complete 
revolution  every  35  minutes;  the  flats 
are  also  set  to  a  No.  10  gauge  in- 
stead of  a  No.  12,  as  comipared  with 
American  cotton.  The  cylinder  and 
doffier  are  only  stripped  twice  a  day, 
but  the  card  wire  is  always  kept 
sharp  and  in  perfect  condition.  The 
weight  of  the  sliver  at  the  front  is 
45  grains  per  yard  and  the  production 
for  a  week  of  60  hours  should  not  be 
over  400  pounds  per  week.  The  sliver 
is  next  taken  to  the  sliver  lap  ma- 
chine or  in  some  cases  a  drawing 
frame  is  used  first  and  a  sliver  lap 
machine  afterwards.  If  the  former 
method  is  used,  the  weight  of  the  lap 
shonkl  be  about  230  grains  per  yard, 
the  doublings  being  14  into  1  for  an 
8%-inch  lap.  These  laps  a^re  doubled 
at  the  ribbon  lap  machine  6  into  1.  the 
weight  of  the  lap  at  tlie  front  being 
220  grains  per  yard.  If  a  drawing 
frame  is  used  after  the  card,  the  rib- 
bon lap  machine  is  not  used,  and  the 
weiight   of  lap  at   the   sliver   lap   ma- 


chine should  be  220  grains  per  yard. 
The  laps  at  both  the  ribbon  and  sliver 
lap  machines  should  be  sized  once  a 
day.  The  laps  are  ruext  put  up  at  the 
comber  and  doubled  according  to  the 
number  of  heads  that  it  contains,  eith- 
er six  oir  eight.  The  percent  of  waste 
taken  out  at  this  machine  for  this 
stock  varies  according  to  the  over- 
seers' ideas,  but  a  good  average  per- 
cent is  22. 

THE   WASTE    PERCENTAGE 

should    be   taken   from     six     different 
combers  every  day.      Keep    the    rolls 
well    varnished   and  other   parts   well 
polished  and  as  free  from  dirt  as  pos- 
sible.   Watch   the   piecing     and     also 
for    single.     Keep   your   setting  points 
to  gauge  and  time.     The  sliver  at  this 
machine  weighs  35  grains.     This  sliv- 
er is  put  through     two     processes    of 
drawing  frames,    the   revolutions     per 
minute  of  front    roll    being    320,    the 
doublings   6  into  1  at  both  processes, 
and  the  weight  of  sliver  at  the  finish- 
er being  60  grains  per  yard.     Follow 
instructions  given  for  drawing  frames 
in  previous  articles.    The  sliver  at  the 
drawing  frame  should  be  sized  4  times 
a  day,and  a  variation  of  only  one  grain 
per  yard  allowed.     The  drawing  sliver 
is  next  put  up  to     the     slubber     and 
made  into  .80  hank  roving,  after  which 
it  is  put  through  three     processes    of 
fly  frames,  the  hank  roving  at  each  be- 
ing  as    follows:       First    intermediate, 
2.25   liank;    second.    5   hank,    and    fine, 
18  hank.     At  the  fine  frames  the  rov- 
ing is  sized  once  a  day.     The     usual 
care   that  has     been     previously     ex- 
plained   should  be  given  to   all   parts 
of  the  fly  frames,  and  in  a"cldition  the 
top  leather  rolls  of  the  slubber  should 
be  varnished.     It  is  best,   but  not  al- 
ways convenient,  to  have  the    slubber 
rolls  used  of  a  little  larger  diameteir 
than    when  other     cottons     are  used. 
This  is  on  account  of  the  length  of  the 
staple,  to  help  prevent  "lickiLg."    The 
roving  is  next    spun,     either    a    ring 
frame  or  mule  being     used,  generally 
the  latter.     If  a  ring  frame    is    used, 
the  gauges  sihould  be  as  follows:     For 
90&  yam   from     this     stock,     li^-inch 
diameter   ring,      5-inch      traverse,      31 
turns  per  inch  and  a  spindle  speed  of 
7,400.    After     being    conditioned,     tbe 
yam  is  ready  to   use.     For  the  warp 
yarn     use     the    particulars    given     in 
the  article    on     dhooties,  except    that 
the  yarn  is  not  twi.sited.     A  good     siize 
mixture  for  slasher  is  as  follows:  Wa- 
ter,  TOO   gallons;      potato     starch,     54 
pounds;     Yorkshire  gum,     2     iponnds; 
white  soap,  1%  pounds. 


2^G 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


SUSPENDER  WEBBING, 

Suspender  webbing  is.  as  the  name 
implies,  used  for  suspenders.  It  is 
of  two  types,  elastic  and  non-elastic. 
Ttie  non-elastic  type  is  made  into  sus- 
penders in  connection  with  elastic 
sitraps  connected  to  th©  buckles.  An 
advantage  claimed  for  this  webbing  is 
that  there  is  no  friction  on  the  cloth- 
ing at  the  shoulders,  the  rubber  at  the 
front  and  back,  Oin  the  part  between 
the  buttons  and  the  buckles,  taking 
care  of  variable  tensions  caused  by 
the  different  movements  of  the  body. 

Being  subjected  to    hard    usage,  the 


By  comparing  Figs.  1  and  2  it  will  be 
seen  that  the  web  is  a  multiple  or  com- 
pound fabric,  all  face  ends  being 
raised  when  back  picks  ai"e  inserted, 
all  back  ends  depressed  when  face 
picks  are  inserted,  all  lubber  ends 
raised  on  back  picks  and  depressed  on 
face  picks,  thereby  being  between  the 
face  and  back  fabrics. 

The  binders  tie  the  fabrics  into  one 
compound  fabric. 

LOOM  REQUIRED. 

Suspender  looms  are  made  with 
more  or  less  attachments  according  to 
requirements.  They  are  capable  of 
running  upwards  of  40  webs  at  the 
same  time,  so  the  production  of  one 
loom  is  considerable.  The  shuttles, 
one  for  each  web  in  the  simpler  type. 


5    5    5 
4    4    4 
3    3 

■1 
7 
6 
5 
4 
3      3 
2 

1 

4 
7 

G 
5      5 
4 
3 
2 
1 

6 
5 
4       i 
3 
2 
1 

C 

''  4 

3      3 

2 

1 

7 

« 
5      5 
4 
3 
2 
1 

7 

6 
5 
4      4 

i 

1 

7 

5        5 

4 

3       3 

2 

5     5 
4    4    4 
3    3     3 

Fig.   1. 


goods  are  made  firm  in  the  loom,  of 
strong  materials.  They  are  of  vary- 
ing grades  and  qualities.  In  width 
they  varj'  from  1  to  1%  inches. 

The  analysis  of  a  cotton  webbing  of 
a  cheap  grade  shows  the  following 
data:  warps,  117  ends  of  2-40s  cotton 
for  face  and  edges;  50  ends  of  2-20s  for 
back;  24  ends  of  2-30s  for  binders  or 
stitchers;   25  ends  of  42  rubber. 

There  are  90  picks  of  2-16s  filling  per 
inch,  finished.  As  these  goods  are 
held  tight  in  the  loom  on  account  of 
the  rubber  warp,  60  picks  per  inch 
only  would  be  put  in  in  the  loom,  the 
webbing  co^ntracting  50  per  cent  in 
length  after  being  woven. 

The  width  of  the  web  is  1  7-lG 
inches. 

The  full  layout  is  shown  in  the  har- 
ness draft.  Fig.  1,  the  various  warps 
being  drawn  as  follows:  binder  ends 
through  harness  No.  1,  rubber  ends 
through  hames®  No.  2,  face  and  edge 
ends  through  harnesses  Nos.  3,  4  and 
5,  and  the  back  ends  through  har- 
nesses Nos.  6  and  7.  The  daggers 
indicate  where  the  ends  are  divided 
by  the  reed,  the  entire  web  occupying 
27  dents  of  a  reed  containing  17  dents 
per  inch. 

E'ach  binder  end  works  between  two 
back  ends.  To  add  bulk  to  the  fab- 
ric, coarse  ends  are  sometimes  insert- 
ed in  the  centre  of  the  cloth;  these 
are  drawn  through  the  same  harnesses 
as  the  rubber. 

The  chain  draft  is  shown  in  Fig.  2. 


are  actuated  on  the  rack  and  pinion 
principle  in  a  positive  manner.  On 
some  goods,  where  silk  filling  is  used 
for  figuring  purposes,  threfj  or  foui 
Shuttles  are  required  for  each  web. 

Goods  like  the  one  under  considera- 
tion would  be  ■v^'oven  on  a  positively 
acted  side  cam  loom,  actuated  by  in- 
terchangeable sectional  cams.  The 
cams  are  12  picks  to  the  round  or  re- 
peat. One  shuttle  only  is  required  for 
each  web. 

For  more  elaborate   goods   a   dobby 


■uaaaaa 

OBBBBDa 

■DCBBaa 

DBBBBBQ 
BOBBDOa 
aBBflBOB 

BaaoBDa 
aflBBBaa 
aDDBaaa 

□BBBBDa 
BGBBDDD 
12  3  4  6  6  7 

Fig.  2. 


or  jacquard  head  is  used  in  connec- 
tion with  the  caiLS,  the  latter  work- 
ing the  ha'messies  for  the  ground,  and 
the  head  motion  actuating  the  figuring 
yarns. 

Separate  warp  beams,  or  spools,  are 
required  for  each  different  count  of 
warp  yam,  for  each  web. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Like  other  fabrics  that  have  been 
already  described  in  these  articles,  the 
yarns  of  which  the  webbing  for 
suspenders      is      made      vary    as    tO' 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


247 


count,  but  in  this  especial  case  there 
is  also  a  wide  I'ange  of  the  stock  used 
and  also  as  to  whether  it  shall  be 
cai'ded  or  carded  and  combed.  The 
higher  grades  of  webbing  are  com- 
posed of  the  longer  stapled  cottons, 
even  the  longest  staple  Sea  Island 
cotton  being  used  for  the  very  fine 
grades,  this  cotton  being  of  course 
combed,  and  from  this  down  to  the 
short  stapled  carded  cotton.  The  sam- 
ple that  has  been  taken  for  this  arti- 
cle is  of  medium  grade  and  is  com- 
posed of  four  different  counts  of 
yarn,  which  are  as  follows:  2-40s  warp 
for  face  and  ends  and  2-20s  for  the 
back;  2-oCs  is  used  for  the  binder  and 
2-16S  for  the  filling  yarns.  The  2-40s 
and  2-30s  yarns  would  be  constructed 
from  the  same  staple  and  stock,  or 
American  cotton  of  1  5-16-inch  staple 
and  the  2-20s  and  2-16s  would  be  made 
from  peeler  cotton  of  l^-inch  staple. 
The  picking  particulars  that  have  been 
given  in  previous  articles  may  be  used 
for  these  counts  and  staple  cottons 
may  be  used,  the  following  exceptions 
being  noted.  The  total  weight  of  the 
lap  at  the  different  processes  for  the 
1  5-16-inch  stock  is  as  follows: 
breaker  picker,  40  pounds  or  a  16- 
ounce  lap;  intermediate  picker,  38 
pounds  or  a  12-ounce  lap  and  at  the 
finisher  picker  35  pounds  or  a  12i/^- 
ounce  lap.  For  the  1%-inch  stock  the 
weights  would  be  as  follows:  40 
pounds  or  a  16-ounce  lap  at  the  break- 
er, 39  pounds  or  a  12%-ounce  lap  at  the 
intermediate  and  39  pounds  or  a  141^- 
ounce  lap  at  the  finisher  picker.  The 
beater  speeds  used  would  be  the  same 
for  both  cottons,  i.  e.,  1,500  revolu- 
tions per  minute  at  breaker  and  in- 
termediate and  1,450  revolutions  per 
minute  at  the  finisher,  which  gives  the 
cotton  passing  through  the  finisher 
picker  about  42  beats  or  blows  per 
inch.  At  the  card  the  draft  of  the 
1  5-16-inch  stock  should  be  not  less 
than  100  and  the  speed  of  the  licker-in 
350  revolutions  per  minute,  while  the 
flats,  110,  make  one  complete  revolu- 
tion ever?'  50  minutes.     The 

WEIGHT  OF  THE  SLIVER 
should  be  about  60  grains  per  yard 
and  the  production  750  pounds  per 
week  of  60  hours.  The  draft  for  the 
l^^-inch  stock  should  not  exceed  95 
and  the  speed  of  the  licker-in  is  about 
375  revolutions  per  minute,  while  the 
flats  make  a  revolution  every  55  min- 
utes. The  weight  of  the  sliver  should 
be  65  grains  per  yard  and  the  produc- 
tion 850  to  900  pounds  per  week.  For 
all  other  particulars,  see  previous  arti- 
cles. The  main  point  of  difference  in 
the  setting  points  would    be     at     the 


licker-in  and  feed  plate,  which  should 
be  set  to  accommodate  each  staple. 
The  slivers  are  next  put  through  three 
processes  of  drawings,  the  doublings  at 
each  process   being  6  into  1. 

The  weight  of  the  sliver  at  the  fin- 
isher drawing  should  be  70  grains  per 
yard  for  both  staples  and  the  speed  of 
the  front  roll  350  revolutions  per  min- 
ute. Either  metallic  or  leather  cov- 
ered top  rolls  may  be  used,  but  should 
favor  the  metallic  rolls  for  these 
stocks.  The  drawings  should  be  sized 
four  times  a  day,  and  kept  within  two 
grains  either  side  of  standard  weight. 
Watch  your  stop-motions  and  also 
the  drawing  as  it  is  being  delivered 
to  see  that  no  cut  work  is  made, 
for  this  causes  a  lot  of  trouble 
in  subsequent  processes.  All  drawing  as 
it  is  delivered  in  full  cans  at  the  fin- 
isher drawing  should  be  marked  with 
chalk  so  that  it  may  always  be  dis- 
tinguished from  other  staples,  kinds 
and  weights.  These  slivers  are  then 
put  through  the  slubber  and  made  in- 
to .50  hank  roving,  after  which  they  . 
are  made  into  the  following  hank  rov- 
ing at  the  different  processes  named: 
For  the  2-40s  yarn,  first  intermediate, 
2  hank,  and  second,  8  hank;  for  2-30s 
yarn,  first  intermediate,  2  hank,  and 
second,  6  hank;  for  2-20s  yarn,  first 
intermediate,  1.25  hank,  and  second.  4 
hank;  for  2-16s  yarn,  first  intermedi- 
ate, l,and  3  at  the  second  intermediate. 
These  rovings  should  be  sized  once  a 
day,  six  bobbins  being  sized  from  each 
different  hank. 

WATCH  YOUR  TWIST 
to  see  that  you  are  putting  in  neither 
too  much  nor  too  little,  and  also  your 
tension  to  see  that  you  are  not  putting 
too  great  a  strain  on  the  yarn  and 
thus  making  strained  or  unevenly 
drawn  roving.  The  layers  per  inch  are 
also  another  important  point  and  for 
the  hank  rovings  given  above  a  good 
number  is  as  follows:  For  the  3  hank, 
20  layers  per  inch;  for  4  hank,  25  lay- 
ers; 6  hank,  33  layers,  and  for  8  hanks, 
38  layers.  The  top  leather  rolls  should 
always  be  k^t  in  good  condition  and 
if  not  should  be  sent  to  be  recovered. 
In  putting  in  new  rolls  always  put  two 
new  rolls  on  the  same  arbor  and  not, 
as  is  sometimes  done,  one  old  roll  and 
one  new  roll.     Keep 

ROLLS  WELL  OILED 
and  also  the  spindle  stops,  which 
should  be  oiled  at  least  once  a  month. 
The  roving  is  next  spun  on  spinning 
frames  into  40s,  30s,  20s,  and  16s.  re- 
spectively. The  particulars  for  these 
frames,  with  the  exception  of  the  16s, 
have  been  previously  given.  For  spin- 


\248 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


ning  16s  filling  use  a  frame  having  a 
2%-incli  gauge,  1%-inch  diameter  ring 
and  a  6i/2-inch  traverse  with  a  spindle 
speed  of  7,000  revolutions  per  minute 
of  the  spindles.  The  yarn  is  then  pui 
through  several  special  processes  dif- 
ferent from  the  machinery  used  for 
regular  cloth  warp  and  filling,  when  it 
is  ready  for  the  suspender  loom. 


Dyeing    Particulars. 

SKY  BLUE. 
One  per  ceat  diamine  sky  blue  F  F; 
2  per  cent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's. 

PINK. 

One-half  per  cent  erika  pink  G;  1 
per  cent  sal  soda;  10  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's. 

LIGHT  GREEN. 

One-half  per  cent  diamine  fast  yel- 
low B;  %  per  cent  diamine  green  G; 
1  per  cent  sal  soda;  10  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's. 

YELLOW. 

One  per  cent  chrysophenine ;  2  per 
cent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent  Glauber's. 

RED. 

Two  per  cent  diamine  fast  red   F; 

1  per  cent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's. 

SCARLET. 

Three  per  cent  benzo  fast  red  4  B; 

2  per  cent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's salt. 

SLATE. 

One  per  cent  diamine  black  B  H; 
1/4  per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow  A;  1 
per  cent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's salt 

BROWN. 

Two  per  cent  diamine  brown  B;  V^ 
per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow  A;  2  per 
cent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent  Glauber's 
salt. 

NAVY  BLUE. 

Th^ee  per  cent  diamine  dark  blue 
B;  1  per  cent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent 
Glauber's. 

BLACK. 

Five  per  cent  cxydlamiue  black  N 
A;  2  per  cent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent 
Glauber's;  aftertreat  with  formalde- 
hyde. 

BRONZE. 

Three  per  cent  diamine  broijze  G;  2 
per  cent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's. 

ECRU. 

Two  ounces  diamine  catechine  G;  Vz 
pound  sal  soda;   10  per  cent  Glauber's. 


INDIAN  DIMITY, 

Under  the  head  of  dimity  are  a  va- 
riety of  cotton  fabrics  characterized  by 
Btripes  and  cords,  in  both  warp  and 
filling  way  of  the  fabric,  but  more  com- 
monly the  stripes  and  cords  are  in  the 
warp  only. 

Dimity  originally  was  understood  to 
mean  a  stout  cotton  fabric  with  raised 
stripes,  cords,  crimps  or  ridges  in  the 
warp  way  of  the  fabric.  These  fabrics 
were  further  ornamented  by  being 
printed  in  various  colors  lengthwise  of 
the  fabric,  in  small  patterns.  This  fab- 
ric was  principally  used  for  furniture 
covering  and  for  like   purposes. 

Under  the  head  of  Indian  dimity  is  a 
class  of  fabrics  somewhat  similar  to 
the  dimiiy  desci'ibed  above,  but  made 
with  finer  yarn  and  used  principally  as 
a  dress  fabric. 

The  stripes  and  cords,  however,  con- 
stitute 

THE  CHARACTERISTIC  FEATURE- 
of  the  fabric;  the  fabric  without  these 
stripes  and  cords  would  in  all  respects 
resemble  a  fair  quality  of  lawn,  batiste 
or  muslin. 

The  cords  in  an  Indian  dimity  ap- 
pear in  the  fabric  at  regular  intervals 
across  the  entire  width.  These  cords 
may  be  effected  by  working  two  or 
more  ends  on  the  same  harness  or  by 
using  a  coarser  thread  than  the  body 
of  the  warp.  The  cord  usually  inter- 
laces with  the  filling  in  the  same  man- 
ner as  the  ground;  that  is,  on  the 
plain  weave  order.  In  addition  to  these 
cords,  the  fabric,  after  it  is  woven,  is 
printed  in  stripes  in  the  direction  of 
the  warp,  with  high  colors.  The  pat- 
terns of  these  stripes  are  usually  con- 
ventionalized floral  figures.  These 
floral  stripes  may  alternate  with  an  ap- 
propriate geometrical  figured  stripe.  In 
the  latter  stripe  the  colors  are  usually 
more  subdued,  thus  producing  contrast 
and  variety',  a  very  desirable  feature  in 
a  dress  fabric,  especially  so  in  the 
cheaper  grades  of  printed  dress  fabrics. 

Varying  the  quality  of  cotton  fabrics 
is  such  a  general  practice  and  is  car- 
ried to  such  an  extent  that  some  fab- 
rics lose  their  individuality;  a 
fabric  such  as  an  Indian  dimity,  that 
has  features  in  addition  to  its  construc- 
tion, has  considerable  scope  for  varia- 
tion, consequently  we  find  various 
grades  and  styles  of  Indian  dimity — 
some  in  which  the  cords  are  much  far- 
ther apart  than  in  others,  or  suflBcient- 
ly    spaced    to   allow   the    stripe   to   be 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


249 


printed  between  the  raised  cords,  and 
others  in  which  the  cords  are  very  close 
together,  with  but  two  or  three  ends 
between  each  cord.  (See  weave  Fig.  1.) 
In  printed  fabrics  of  this  character, 
where  the  printed  patterns  are  in  the 
form  of  a  stripe,  the  cords  should  not 
be  too  prominent,  or,  if  they  must  be 
prominent,the  printed  stripe  should  be 
of  such  a  design  that  the  outline  is  of 
an  indefinite  character,  so  that  if  any 
inaccuracy  occurs  in  the  printing,  that 
is,  if  the  cloth  does  not  run  perfect- 
ly straight  through  the  printing  ma- 
chine, and  the  printed  stripe  interlaces 
too  much  with  the  cord, it  appears  as  if 
the  printed  stripe  was  promiscuously 
placed  on  the  fabric.  The  happiest 
patterns  are  those  in  which  the  ends 
are  not  very  prominent  and  the  stripe 
is  printed  over  them  at  apparently  reg- 
ular intervals.  Fig.  2  represents  the 
drawing-in  draft;  Fig.  3  the  reeding 
plan. 

ANALYSIS   OF  FABRIC. 
Width  of  warp  in  reed,  30i/^  inches; 

nnanBDOBaB 
mmauaumama 
aamamaamDm 
maamammama 
oamDmaauam 
■■oaaBBDBa 

DDBDBOQBDB 
BBOBDIBaBa 

Fig.  1. 

DDDnnnDDDB 
DDDnnnDDBD 

DDDanDnBDn 

DDnnDBBDDn 
DDnGBDDDna 

DDDBDDnana 
DDBaannDDn 
muaaoaaaan 

Fig.  2. 

BBBODBBBnn 
DaDBBDGDBB 

Fig.  3. 

width  of  fabric  finished,  29  inches; 
ends  per  inch  finished,  94;  1,300x2 
reed;    ends  in  warp,   2,724. 

Dressing:    1-2  E.  white  in  1  hed. 
1  E.  white. 
1  E.  white. 
1  E.  white. 

4-e 

Take-up  of  warp  during  weaving,  8 
per  cent;  warp  yarn,  1-80;  filling  yarn, 
1-100.     Picks  per  inch,  76. 

LOOM  REQUIRED. 

Light-weight  cotton  fabrics,  such  as 
an  Indian  dimity,  may  be  woven  on  any 
light  built  single  box  loom.  The  prin- 
cipal consideration  should  be  given  to 
the  speed  of  the  loom,  as  fabrics  of 
this  class  require  large  production  in 
order  to  amply  compensate  the  manu- 
facturers for  making  them.  High-speed 
Crompton  gingham  looms  would  an- 
swer for  weaving  this  class  of  goods. 
FINISHING. 

The  fabric,  after  it  is  woven,  is 
bleached,  then  slightly  stiffened  by 
immersing  in  a  light  solution    of   size. 


The  size  may  be  composed  of  the  fol- 
lowing ingredients:  Hour,  wax  and  gel- 
atine. After  the  sizing  the  fabric  is 
dried,  then  slightly  spiinkled  with 
water,then  run  through  a  rotary  press, 
after  which  follows  the  printing  proc- 
ess. The  fabric  is  then  again  slightly 
pressed  in  order  to  take  out  the 
ci-eases  which  it  contracted  during  the 
printing;  then  it  is  made  up  into  laps 
or  rolls. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  yarns  that  make  up  Indian 
dimity  are  made  in  mills  of  the  third 
division,  as  given  in  a  previous  article. 
The  fabric  is  generally  made  from  Sea 
Island  cotton  of  from  1%-inch  to  1%- 
inch  staple.  The  sample  under  de- 
scription is  composed  of  1-lOOs  filling 
yarn  and  1-SOs  warp  yarn  and  for  this 
article  we  will  consider  both  yarns  to 
be  made  from  1%-inch  staple,  Florida 
Sea  Island  cotton.  Particular  care 
should  be  paid  to  the  mixing  of  this 
cotton  and  all  bales  not  up  to  grade 
and  staple  should  not  be  used.  At  the 
mixing  bin  the  good  sliver  fi-om  the 
machines  up  to  the  slubber  should  be 
mixed  with  the  raw  stock.  Too  much 
waste  should  not  be  mixed  on  account 
of  making  the  lap  fleece.  As  this  cot- 
ton is  of  a  long  staple  it  is  very  easy  to 
put  neps  into  it,  and  thus  too  great  a 
speed  of  the  beater  of  the  picker  should 
not  be  allowed.  The  beater  should  be 
run  just  fast  enough  to  take  out  the 
dirt.  This  speed  varies,  on  different 
stocks  of  the  same  length  of  staple, 
from  800  to  1,350  revolutions  per  min- 
ute. A  good  average  speed  of  a  two- 
bladed  rigid  type  of  beater  for  the 
breaker  is  1,200  revolutions  per  min- 
ute, and  for  the  finisher,  1,025  revolu- 
tions per  minute.  This  latter  speed 
gives  the  cotton  passing  through  it 
about  29  beats  or  blows  per  inch.  Sea 
Island  cotton  is  genei-ally  put  through 
only  two  processes  of  pickers  and 
sometimes  does  not  even  pass  through 
an  opener,  although  this  is  an  excep- 
tion rather  than  a  rule.  At  the  break- 
er picker  the  lap  at  the  front  end  weighs 
30  pounds  or  a  12-ounce  lap.  These 
are  put  up  and  doubled  4  into  1  at  the 
finisher  picker,  and  the  total  weight 
of  lap  at  this  machine  is  29%  pounds, 
or  a  10-ounce  lap.  A  variation  of  one- 
half  pound  either  side  of  standard 
weight  is  allowed.  These  laps  are  put 
up  at  the  card.    The 

DRAFT  OF  THIS  MACHINE 
for  this  stock  varies  according  to  the 
idea  of  the  one  in  charge,  but  should 
not  be  less  than  125.       The    top    flats 
should  be   clothed  with   No.   36s  wire 


250 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


and  should  make  one  complete  revolu- 
tion every  35  minutes.  The  speed  of 
the  licker-in  should  be  less  than  that 
used  lor  shorter  and  coarser  cottons 
and  should  not  exceed  300  revolutions 
per  minute,  as  it  is  claimed  that  this 
speed  is  high  enough  to  tear  it  apart 
and  clean  it  thoroughly  and  still  not 
put  neps  into  it.  The  doffer  should  be 
of  as  large  a  diameter  as  possible  and 
should  be  clothed  vi^ith  No.  36s  wire 
fillet.  The  cylinder  fillet  should  be 
No.  34s.  The  weight  of  the  sliver 
should  be  about  37  grains  and  the 
production,  per  week  of  60  hours,  350 
pounds.  Clean,  strip,  and  grind  cards, 
as  has  been  already  stated  in  previous 
articles.  The  sliver  is  then  taken  to 
the  sliver  lap  machine  and  for  an  8%- 
inch  lap  is  doubled  14  into  1.  The 
weight  of  the  sliver  at  the  front  of  this 
machine  is  230  grains  per  yard  of  lap. 
Watch  your  stop-motions  on  this 
machine.  The  laps  are  put  up  at  the 
ribbon  lap  machine  and  doubled  6  into 
1,  although  some  mills  make  a  heavier 
lap  at  the  sliver  lap  machine,  and  only 
double  5  into  1  at  the  ribbon  lap  ma- 
chine. The  weight  per  yard  of  lap  at 
the  front  of  this  machine  is  210  grains. 
The  rolls  of  the  sliver  lap  machine  for 
this  stock  are  set  as  follows:  Front  to 
middle,  1%  inches;  middle  to  back,  2 
inches  and  for  the  ribbon  lap,  front  to 
second,  1%  inches;  second  to  third, 
1%  inches;  third  to  back,  2  inches.  The 
laps  are  put  up  at  the  comber  and 
doubled  either  6  or  8  into  1,  according 
to  the  number  of  heads  that  the  comb- 
er contains,  which  we  will  consider  to 
be  6.  The  sliver  from  this  machine 
weighs  35  grains  per  yard;  25  per  cent 
waste  is  taken  out  and  the  speed  of  the 
machine  is  90  nips  per  minute.  Use 
setting  and  timing  previously  given 
for  this  grade  of  stock.  The  cotton  is 
next  put  through  two  processes  of 

DRAWING  FRAMES, 

the  speed  of  the  front  roll  being  350 
revolutions  per  minute,  and  the  weight 
of  the  sliver  at  the  finisher  drawing  be- 
ing 60  grains  per  yard.  It  is  an  im- 
portant point  to  prevent  all  singles  and 
doubles  at  this  machine  and  to  help 
make  perfect  drawing  all  stop-motions 
should  be  in  perfect  condition.  An- 
other important  part  to  watch  is  the 
setting  of  the  rolls.  For  this  stock  a 
good  rule  is  as  follows:  Front  to  sec- 
ond, 1%  inches;  second  to  third,  1% 
inches;  third  to  back,  2  inches.  These 
settings  may  be  used  at  both  drawings, 
although  if  settings  are  closed  up 
1-16  of  an  inch  between  each  roll  at 
the  finisher  drawing  it  will  not  injure 
the  staple. 


The  top  leather  rolls  of  the  sliver 
lap,  ribbon  lap,  comber,  and  drawing 
frames  should  be  kept  in  perfect  condi- 
tion and  always  well  varnished.  A 
stock  of  new  and  newly  varnished 
rolls  should  always  be  kept  on  hand 
and  the  rolls  on  the  machine  examined 
frequently  to  see  that  they  are  perfect. 
Good  recipes  for  varnish  have  been 
previously  given.  A  part  of  the  ma- 
chines which  it  is  not  a  general  cus- 
tom to  give  much  notice  to  is  the  clear- 
ers.  Now  this  is  an  important  part  and 
they  should  be  looked  after  carefully 
to  see  that  they  are  doing  their  duty 
properly.  This  refers  to  both  top  and 
bottom  clearers  on  all  machines  on 
which  they  are  used. 

At  the  slubber  the  drawing  is  made 
into  .80  hank  roving.  At  this  machine 
watch  the  top  rolls,  the  build  of  the 
bobbin,  the  lay,  twist,  tension  and 
traverse  motion.  For  this  stock  the 
front  rolls  are  generally  varnished  and 
if  it  is  in  a  mill  made  to  run  this 
length  of  stock  the  top  and  bottom 
front  rolls  are  of  a  larger  diameter  so 
that  the  stock  will  not  lick  up  so 
easily.  The  roller  settings  for  the 
slubber  are  as  follows:  front  to  middle, 
1  11-16  inches;  middle  to  back,  1% 
inches. 

THE  SLUBBER  ROVING 

is  then  put  through  three  more  proc- 
esses of  fly  frames,  the  hank  roving 
made  at  each  process  being  as  follows: 
First  intermediate,  2.25;  second,  5,  and 
fine,  IS  hank  for  warp  yarn  and  20 
hank  for  filling  yarn.  The  warp  yarn 
is  ring  spun  on  a  frame  having  a  1%- 
inch  diameter  ring,  5i/4-inch  traverse, 
39.08  twist  per  inch  and  a  spindle 
speed  of  9,600  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  yarn  is  then  spooled  and  warped 
and  then  run  through  a  slasher,  after 
which  it  is  drawn  in  and  is  then  ready 
to  weave.  A  good  slasher  size  for  this 
yarn  is  as  follows:  Water,  100  gallons; 
potato  starch,  70  pounds;  tallow,  7 
pounds;  Yorkshire  gum,  3  pounds; 
white  soap,  2  pounds.  Boil  two  hours 
and  let  stand  10  hours  before  using. 
Keep  agitator  running  and  keep  size 
almost  at  a  boiling  point  when  sizing. 
The  yarn  for  filling  is  generally  mule 
spun,  after  which  it  is  conditioned  and 
then  is  ready  for  weaving. 


Colors  for  Printing. 

PALE   VIOLET. 

Prepare  ten  gallons  of  printing  paste 

with  one  pound  chrome  violet     M  for 

printing;  60  pounds  gum  solution  1:1; 

two  pounds     glycerine;     33%     pounds 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


251 


water.  Heat  to  about  160  degrees  F., 
allow  to  cool,  then  add  21/2  pounds 
formic  acid  90  per  cent;  1  pound  ace- 
tate chrome,  32  degrees  Tw. 

DEEP  VIOLET. 

For  10  gallons  paste,  10  pounds 
chrome  violet  M  for  printing;  50 
pounds  starch  tragacanth  65:1,000;  34 
pounds  water.  Heat  to  about  160  de- 
grees F.,  allow  to  cool;  add  ly^  pounds 
formic  acid,  90  per  cent,  3V^  pounds 
acetate  of  chrome,  32  degrees  Tw. 

BLUE. 

For  10  gallons  paste,  Wy^  pounds 
chrome  fast  blue  F  R  for  printing;  3^ 
pounds  chrome  violet  M  for  printing; 
45  pounds  starch  tragacanth  thickening; 
12  pounds  water;  heat  to  about  160  de- 
grees F. ;  allow  to  cool  then  add  three 
pounds  hyraldite  A,  dissolved  in  3^^ 
pounds  water;  one  pound  formalde- 
hyde, 40  per  cent;  21/2  pounds  formic 
acid;  15  pounds  acetate  of  chrome; 
Steam  through  Mather  &  Piatt.  The 
pieces  are  then  left  exposed  to  the  air 
for  several  hours,  passed  through  a 
weak  chrome  bath,  washed,  soaped, 
rinsed  and  dried. 

SKY    BLUE. 

Two  and  one-half  ounces  alizarine 
"blue  S  P;  2V2  pints  gum  thickening;  1 
quart  water;  V2  pint  acetate  chrome  32 
degrees  Tw.  Print  and  steam  and 
soap. 

PEA  GREEN. 

Two  pints  alizarine  green  D  G  paste; 
1%  gallons  tragacanth  thickening;  1 
gill  acetate  of  chrome  32  degrees  Tw.; 
2  quarts  water.  Print,  steam  and  soap. 

PINK. 

Four  ounces  rhodamine  6G;  l^  pint 
water;  xy^  quart  tragacanth  thicken- 
ing; ^/4  pint  acetic  acid,  9  degrees  Tw.; 
^4  pint  acetate  chrome,  32  degrees  Tw. 
Print,  steam  and  soap. 

RED. 

One  pound  brilliant  Rhoduline  red 
"B  D;  1  gill  glycerine;  2  pints  water; 
1%  pounds  acetic  acid,  9  degrees  Tw.; 
1  gallon  gum  water.  1:1;  2  pints  acetic 
acid  tannic  acid  solution,  1:1.  Print, 
«team  one  hour,  soap. 

PURPLE. 

Five  ounces  methyl  violet  2  R;  2^4 
quarts  water;  3  pints  acetic  acid.  9 
degrees  Tw. ;  li/4  gallons  gum  water 
1:1;  \y2,  pints  acetic  acid,  tannic  acid 
solution  1:1.  Print,  steam  one  hour, 
£oap. 


GRENADINE. 


Grenadine  is  a  fine  gauzy  dress  fab- 
ric made  with  various  combinations  of 
materials,  such  as  silk  and  cotton,  silk 
and  wool,  or  cotton  and  wool,  and 
some  of  the  cheaper  grades  are  made 
with  all  cotton  yarns. 

The  fabric  is  plain  and  loosely  woven 
and  invariably  ornamented  by  stripes, 
sometimes  in  both  warp  and  filling, 
but  usually  in  the  warp  only.  These' 
stripes  may  be  of  an  ordinary  satin  or 
uneven  sided  twill  weave.  In  the  bet- 
ter grades  of  grenadine  the  ornamen- 
tation is  more  intricate,  that  is,  the 
figuring  is  of  such  a  character  that  it 
requires  a  special  loom,  such  as  a 
lappet  or  swivel  loom.  If  the  figuring 
is  to  be  effected  by  means  of  an  extra 
tilling,  the  swivel  loom  is  used.  With 
the  use  of  this  loom  the  figuring  is  in 
the  form  of  spots  or  set  figures  over 
the  entire  fabric. 

The  grenadine  of  which  the  analysis 
will  follow  is  a  cotton  warp  and  silk 
filling  fabric,  ornamented  with  a  zigzag 
warp  stripe,  effected  by  the  lappet 
attachment  to  the  loom. 

This  method  of  forming  stripes  on  a 
fabric  was  in  use  prior  to  the  introduc- 
tion of  the  swivel  loom.  The  method 
of  operation  in  this  class  of  weaving 
consists  of  passing  an  independent  set 
of  threads  through  a  series  of  needles 
set  in  a  frame.  This  frame  is  situated 
between  the  reed  and  shuttle  race  way 
of  the  lay. 

This  frame  is  arranged  so  as  to  slide 
horizontally  to  and  fro.  This  sliding 
is  regulated  by  the  pattern  chain,  and 
the  needles  are  lowered  at  the  proper 
time,  so  as  to  allow  the  figuring 
threads  to  interlace  with  the  ground 
cloth,  by  passing  the  filling  over  the 
fig-uring  threads,  thereby  binding  the 
figuring  threads  into  the  ground  struc- 
ture of  the  fabric.  The  movements  of 
the  needles  may  be  timed  so  as  to  inter- 
weave with  the  ground  cloth  at  each 
throw  of  the  shuttle  or  otherwise,  as 
may  be  desired.  The  figuring  threads, 
however,  must  be  on  a  separate  warp 
beam  on  account  of  the  difference  of 
take-up  during  weaving. 

Diagram,  Fig.  1,  illustrates  the  meth- 
od of  interlacing  the  figuring  threads 
into  the  ground  structure  of  the  fab- 
ric. 

This  fabric,  as  mentioned  above,  is 
of  an  openwork  texture.  The  construc- 
tion, that  is,  the  ends  and  picks  per 


252 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


inch  in  the  ground  structure  of  the  fab- 
ric, should  be  of  such  a  number  as  to 
make  the  fabric  firm  enough  to  fulfill 
its  purposes.  As  the  fabric  is  used  en- 
tirely for  dress  goods,  it  is  subjected  to 
considerable  wear.  In  order  to  retain 
its  characteristic  feature,  that  is, 
transparency  or  openness  of  texture, 
the  ends  and  picks  per  inch  should  be 
of  such  a  number  that  in  the  finished 
fabric  the  meshes  will  be  no  larger 
than  the  diameter  of  the  yarn  used  in 
the  fabric;  otherwise  the  fabric  will 
not  wear  satisfactorily. 

From  the  above  it  will  be  observed 
that  in  order  to  produce  a  fabric  that 


inch  finished,  92.  Reed,  42x2;  take-up> 
of  ground  warp  during  weaving,  5  per 
cent;  take-up  of  figuring  warp  during 
weaving,  12  times  the  length  of  fabric 
woven;  ground  warp,  1-COs  cotton;  fig- 
uring warp,  2-40s  mercerized  cotton. 

In  the  drawing-in,  the  ground  warp 
only  is  drawn  through  the  heddles  in 
the  harness;  the  figuring  warp  passes 
over  the  harness  into  the  eyes  of  the 
needles,  the  needles  being  in  front  of 
the  reed.  The  figuring  warp  is  not 
drawn  through  the  reed,  but  is  guided 
entirely  by  the  needles. 

Filling:  IV^  dram  silk,  picks,  90  per 
inch  finished. 


Pig.  1. 


is  satisfactory  in  all  its  aspects,  viz., 
appearance,  feel  or  handle  and  wearing 
qualities,  absolute  accuracy  is  required 
in  calculating  for  the  construction  of 
such  a  fabric.  Grenadine  may  be  wov- 
en in  the  gray,  then  dyed  any  color  de- 
sired, or  the  warp  may  be  dyed  in  the 
hank  and  the  filling  dyed  after  it  is 
woven  into  the  fabric.  In  the  better 
grades  these  fabrics  are  usually  woven 
with  dyed  yarns.  The  prevailing  color 
for  grenadines  is  solid  black. 
ANALYSIS. 
Width  of  warp  in  reed,  30  inches; 
width  of  fabric  finished,  27.5  inches- 
ends  per  inch  in  reed,  84;     ends     per 


Fig.  2     shows     ground     and     figure- 
weave. 
Fig.  3  ground  warp  drawing-in  draft. 

LOOMS  USED. 
These  fabrics  are  woven  on  variousj. 
looms,  various  makes  of  dobby  looms, 
lappet,  swivel  or  jacquard,  depending 
entirely  on  the  character  of  figure  to 
be  woven.  The  jacquard  loom  is  used 
when  the  fabric  is  to  be  ornamented  by 
large  broken  plaids,  requiring  too- 
many  ends  to  be  conveniently  handled 
on  a  dobby  loom. 

FINISHING. 
The  finer  grade  of  grenadine  requires 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


263 


very  little  attention  as  regards  fin- 
ishing. After  the  fabric  comes  from 
the  loom  it  is  examined  for  broken 
threads  or  picks.  The  finishing  is  prac- 
tically in  the  weaving.  If  the  fabric  is 
perfect  when  it  comes  from  the  loom, 
it  is  run  through  the  rotary  press,  sub- 
jected to  a  little  steaming  and  slight 
pressure,  and  then  made  up  into  laps 
ready    for    the    consumer. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The   counts     of  yarn   used     for  the 
warp    in    the    sample   described   above 


500  revolutions  per  minute;  interme- 
diate, 1,400  revolutions  per  minute,  and 
finisher,  1,400  revolutions  per  minute. 
The 

WEIGHTS  OF  THE  LAP 

for  this  fabric  would  be,  at  the  break- 
er, 40  pounds  or  a  16-ounce  lap,  inter- 
mediate, 38  pounds  or  a  12-ounce  lap, 
and  at  the  finisher,  a  38-pound  or  a  13- 
ounce  lap.  For  the  Sea  Island  stock 
there  would  be  an  opener  and  two 
processes  of  pickers,  the  speed  of  a 
rigid  two-bladed  beater  being  as  fol- 
lows:    1,300  revolutions  per  minute  at 


Fig.  2. 


for  grenadine  are  l-60s  ground  warp 
and  2-40s  for  figuring  warp.  The  sta- 
ple cotton  used  for  the  ground  warp 
would  be  about  1%  inch  for  Allen 
or  peeler  cotton,  while  that  used 
for  the  figuring  warp,  which  is 
mercerized,  would  be  made  from 
a  Sea  Island  cotton,  which  is 
especially  adapted  for  mercerizing 
purposes,  of  1%-inch  staple.  The  1%- 
inch  peeler  cotton  would  be  put 
through  an  opener  and  three  processes 
of  pickers,  the  speed  of  a  two-bladed 
beater  being  as  follows:     Breaker,  1,- 


breaker  and  1,200  revolutions  per  min- 
ute at  finisher;  the  weight  of  the  lap 
would  be  34  pounds  or  a  10-ounce  lap 
at  breaker,  and  at  the  finisher  a  30- 
pound  lap  or  a  IQi/^-ounce  lap.  For 
general  instructions  for  mixing  and 
picking,  use  those  that  have  been  pre- 
viously given.  At  the  card  the  partic- 
ulars used  for  the  peeler  cotton  are: 
A  draft  of  not  less  than  110,  with  a 
licker-in  speed  of  300  revolutions  per 
minute,  flats  (110)  making  one  com- 
plete revolution  every  35  minutes. 
The  speed  of  the  cylinder  is  160  revo- 


254 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


lutions  per  minute  The  production 
should  be  500  pounds  with  a  45-grain 
sliver  for  60  hours  per  week. 

FOR  SEA  ISLAND   STOCK 

the  draft  should  not  be  less  than  130. 
The  speed  of  the  licker-in  is  275  revolu- 
tions per  minute,  flat  1  revolution  in 
35  minutes,  the  weight  of  sliver  40 
grains  per  yard  and  the  production  350 
pounds  per  week.  The  wire  fillet  used 
for  both  stocks  should  be  34s  for  cylin- 
der and  36s  for  top  flats  and  doffer.    Use 


comber  sliver  is  next  put  through  two 
processes  of  drawing  frames,  the 
doublings  being  8  into  1  at  the  breaker 
for  peeler  and  6  into  1  for  Sea  Island, 
while  at  the  breaker  the  doubling  is  6 
into  1  for  both  stocks.  If  metallic 
rolls  are  used  they  should  be  spread 
Vs  of  an  inch  farther  apart  than  when 
leather  top  rolls  are  used.  Watch 
the  stop-motions.  The  weight  of  the 
drawing  sliver  at  the  finisher  drawing 
is  75  grains  per  yard  for  the  peeler 
and  60  grains  for  the  Sea  Island  stock. 


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DanDDaBaDnajGnBGDDaQaniiDannaaaBjnaananBaaaajaaBaaDaanaHannannDDn 
DnDnDaDnaDDanBDnanaDGHnaDnaGDHaaaaaaaBnaDaDnnHnnanDaDBaanDcnaDnn 
DDGaHDDDDnnDHaaaannaBaanaaDDBaDaanaaiiaDDannaHnDnanaaBDDDmnaDDan 
DDDinaannnaBmGnanDBQGDZiaGaBaDGDaniiBnnDaanaBunjnnnaBDDaunnDBDaDn 
DD"GaGGGaG»GGaaGaGHaaaGGGGBGGGGGGaBGanGaaGBaaGaaGGBG:]GaaGa«GaGDa 
DlQaaGGaGBGGGaaaGHanGGGaGHGGGGaGGBGcaGaaaBGGGGGGGBGaaGaaGBGGanan 
■aDaGGaGBDaaaDGaBGaGGaDG«GGGGGGG«aaGGanG«aGGaGGG«aaGaaaaHaGGaaaD 

Fig.  3. 


as  large  a  doffer  as  possible.  The  set- 
ting points  have  been  given  pre- 
viously for  these  stocks.  Strip  three 
times  a  day  and  grind  each  card  at 
least  a  day  every  month.  Both  the 
Sea  Island  and  the  peeler  cottons  for 
this  class  of  goods  are  combed  and  for 
this  article  we  will  suppose  that  an 
8%-inch  lap  is  use.    For 

THE  PEELER  STOCK 
the  ends  are  doubled  14  into  1  at  the 
sliver  lap  machine  or,  as  it  is  some- 
times called,  the  small  doubler,  the 
weight  per  yard  of  the  lap  being  300 
grains,  and  at  the  ribbon  lap  or  large 
doubler  these  laps  are  doubled  6  in- 
to 1,  the  weight  of  the  lap  being  280 
grains  per  yard.  These  laps  are  put 
up  at  the  comber  and  doubled  6  into 
1.  The  percentage  of  waste  taken  out 
is  16  and  the  weight  of  the  sliver  is 
45  grains  per  yard.  Use  settings  and 
timings  previously  given.  For  the 
Sea  Island  stock  the  weight  at  the 
sliver  lap  is  220  grains  per  yard  and 
these  laps  are  doubled  6  into  1  at  the 
ribbon  lap  machine,  the  weight  of  the 
lap  being  215  grains  per  yard.  At  the 
comber  the  doublings  are  6  into  1  and 
the  weight  of  sliver  is  35  grains  per 
yard;  20  per  cent  of  waste  is  taken 
out  and  the  settings  and  timings  used 
are  the  same  as  those  given  in  the  ar- 
ticle on  Indian  dimity. 
VARNISH. 
Do  not  use  the  same  varnish  for  the 
sliver  lap,  ribbon  lap  and  draw  box 
rolls  and  the  leather  detaching  rolls  of 
the  comber.  For  the  latter  use  a  varnish 
that  has  less  glue  and  a  dead  finish, 
while  for  the  former  rolls  use  a  roll 
with  a  smooth,  glossy  finish,  but  use 
a  varnish  that  does  not  peal  or  crack 
easily.  Always  keep  rolls  well  var- 
nished  and   in     good  condition.     The 


AT    THE    SLUBBER 

the  sliver  for  60s  yarn  is  made  up  into 
.50  hank  roving,  after  which  it  passes 
through  three  processes  of  fly  frames 
or  speeders,  being  made  into  the  fol- 
lowing hank  roving  at  each  process: 
1st  intermediate,  1  hank;  2d  interme- 
diate, 3  hank  and  fine  frame,  12  hank. 
The  Sea  Island  stock  is  made  into  .70 
hank     at     the     slubber     and     passes 


Fig.    4. 

through  two  processes  of  fly  frames, 
where  it  is  made  into  2.25  hank  roving 
at  1st  intermediate  and  8  hank  at 
finisher  frame.  Use  all  the  precau- 
tions given  in  previous  lessons  as  to 
rolls,  etc.,  and  remember  that  the  Sea 
Island  stock 

REQUIRES  LESS  TWIST 
per  inch  than  the  peeler.  The  peeler 
cotton  is  made  into  60s  hank  on  a 
warp  spinning  frame,  the  particulars 
of  which  have  been  given  in  a  pre- 
vious article,  while  the  Sea  Island  is 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


made  in  40s  yarn  on  a  warp  frame 
having  a  1%-incli  diameter  ring  with 
a  6-inch  traverse  and  a  spindle  speed 
of  10,000  revolutions  per  minute;  this 
is  then  twisted  and  put  through 
the  mercerizing  process,  after  which  it 
is  ready  for  use. 

A  good  slasher  sizing  for  60s  yarn 
for  light-weight  cloth  is  as  follows: 
Water,  100  gallons;  potato  starch,  54 
pounds;  Yorkshire  gum,  2  pounds,  and 
white  soap,  li/^  pounds. 

Dyeing    Particulars. 

Dyed  in  jig  machine. 
BLACK. 

8  per  cent  thion  black  T  G  C;  8  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;  3  per  cent  soda 
ash;  20  per  cent  salt. 
BLUE. 

6  per  cent  thion  blue  B;  10  per  cent 
sulphide  sodium;  3  per  cent  soda  ash; 
20  per  cent  salt. 

Dye  and  rinse  well.  Aftertreat  with 
2  per  cent  peroxide  sodium;  8  per 
cent  sulphate  magnesia;  S  per  cent 
acetic  acid,  8  degrees  Be.  Dissolve 
the  sulphate  of  magnesia  first,  then 
put  in  the  peroxide  of  sodium  in  small 
quantities,  and  enter  the  goods;  work 
for  20  minutes  first;  then  run  the  ace- 
tic acid  into  the  bath,  and  gradually 
increase  the  heat  to  about  180  degrees 
F. 

BROWN. 

4  per  cent  thion  brown  R;  4  per  cent 
thion  brown  O;  2  per  cent  thion 
orange  N;  12  per  cent  sulphide  so- 
dium; 3  per  cent  soda  ash;  30  per  cent 
salt. 


BRILLIANTE. 


Brilliante  is  a  cotton  fabric  of  light 
or  medium  weight,  distinguished  by 
small,  detached  figures,  usually  of  geo- 
metrical or  simple  character,  arranged 
on  a  plain  ground.  The  figures  are 
formed  with  the  filling,  which  is  soft 
twisted. 

The  object  sought  is  to  cover  the 
warp  with  the  filling  as  much  as  pos- 
sible, both  in  the  ground  and  figure. 
It  is  obtained  by  using  warp  yarns  con- 
siderably finer  than  those  used  for  the 
filling  in  the  same  piece,  aided  by  the 
slack  twist   in   the   filling. 

The  goods  are  used  principally  for 
shirtwaists  and  dress  goods. 

Fig.  1  illustrates  a  typical  brilliante 


fabric,  the  analysis  of  which  shows  the 
following  data:  88  sley,  66  picks,  50s 
warp,  30s  filling;  finished  width,  26%. 
inches.  The  pattern  is  complete  on 
100  ends  and  84  picks.  The  figures  are 
arranged  in  irregular  positions,  8  in  a 
repeat. 

One  of  the  figures  is  illustrated  in 
Fig.  2;  marks  represent  filling. 

Like  many  other  cotton  fabrics.goods 
under  this  name  are  made    in  various 


Fig.  1. 

grades,  variations  in  the  counts  of 
yarns  necessitating  corresponding 
variations  in  the  counts  of  cloth. 
A  fabric  under  consideration,  shown 
in  Fig.  3,  has  a  filling  so  coarse, 
as  compared  with  the  warp,  that  it  has 
the  appearance  of  a  poplin  ground. 
This  is  a  dobby  pattern,  the  spots  be- 
ing arranged  in  a  4-end  sateen  or  brok- 
en crow  order.  Each  spot  is  made  by 
the  filling  covering  nine  ends  on  two 
liicks,  as  in  Fig.  4.     The  float    of    the 


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naDDaaBBBaaDDDDDDDDL  CD 

Danan»B«ii«anDDnDCGDCcLi 

DGaa'MBBBIlHBDDDDDL  nCDD 
DBSaasaBBBBBBBODDDr  CDD 

BaBaaaBaaaBBBMBaDCDDCD 
DBaBaBBaaaaBBBBBDDCDrn 
aJaaaaaaa  iBBaaaGDcpGca 
DGaaaaaBBBaaBaannDaccn 
nn33BaBBaBacBDGCi»rcccq 
naDaaaaBBBaaaDnBBBrprG 
DcnaaaaaBaBanGBBaBBCcn 
DaaanaaaaancGBBBBBBBrn 
DannaaDGBaGrBBiiaBBBBBn 
Dmaanona  -aBBBBBBajaa 
DDoaaonGnDGaaBBBBBB»Bn 

•  DnDDDDGnDnCDaaaBBBBBCD 
DnaDnDGDDDDDGGBBBBBCGn 

DnDnDGnnrncr-GCCBBarrm 

nDaaDCDGGnaCCGL'CBGLLCD 
FIsr.  2. 


second  pick  of  each  alternate  spot  is 
moved  over  two  ends. 

LOOM  REQUIRED. 
Most  brilliante  patterns  necessitate 
the  use  of  a  jacquard  head.  A  machine 
of  300  or  400  hooks  gives  ample  scope 
for  designs.  The  goods  being  of  firm 
structure,  with  all  the  ends  taking  up 


256 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


practically  evenly,  they  could  be  wov- 
en most  economically  on  a  light  run- 
ning single  box  loom  fitted  with  a 
double  lift,  single  cylinder  jacquard. 
One  warp  and  one  filling  only  are  re- 
quired. 

There  being  but  little  scope  for  de- 
veloping other  than  small  designs  of 
this  type,  on  dobby  looms,  they  are 
made  to  but  little  extent  on  these 
looms.    Experience   has     taught     that 


Fig.  3. 

patterns  like  Fig.  3  require  too  many 
harnesses  on  a  dobby  loom  for  weav- 
ing plain  to  the  best  advantage. 
FINISHING. 

These  goods  are  usually  subjected  to 
the  English  or  French  nainsook  finish- 
es, mercerized  or  printed.  By  the 
English  finish  the  fabric,  after  it 
leaves  the  loom,  is  boiled  off,  then 
bleached,  after  which  it  is  softened  by 
immersing  in  a  light  solution  of  glyc- 
erine, or  cocoanut  oil,  and  flour  or 
farina,  after  which  it  is  dried  by  pass- 
ing over  heated  cylinders,  then  run 
through  a  rotary  press  with  very  light 
pressure.  In  the  French  finish,  after 
the  fabric  is  bleached  it  is  stiffened  by 
immersing  in  a  solution  of  size,  com- 
posed of  the  following  ingredients: 
flour,  wax  and  gelatine,  after  which  the 
fabric  is  dried,  then  slightly  sprinkled 
with  water,  then  run  through  the  cal- 
ender, which  completes  the  finishing 
process. 

The,  fabric  illustrated  in  Fig.  1  has 
imdergone  the  mercerizing  process  of 
finishing,  having  been  mercerized  in 
the  piece.  Brilliante  is  a  type  of  goods 
in  which  the  essential  qualities  of  the 
pattern  are  improved  by  the  mercer- 
izing  process. 

When  they  are  printed,  the  printed 
patterns  are  secondary  to  the  weave 
effects  and  usually  consist  of  small 
detached  sprig  or  floral  effects  ar- 
ranged a  great  distance  apart. 


and  third  divisions  as  given  in  a  pre- 
vious lesson.  The  yarns  used  in  the 
sample  under  consideration  are  50s  for 
warp  and  30s  for  filling.  Both  of  these 
yarns  are  combed  and  made  from  the 
sam.e  grade  and  staple  of  cotton.  The 
filling  is  coarser  and  according  to  es- 
tablished rules  should  be  made  of  a 
shorter  length  of  staple,  and  this  would 
be  true  if  it  were  not  for  the  fact  that 
in  order  to  produce  certain  effects  in  the 
cloth  this  yarn  is  required  to  have  a 
softer  twist  than  that  genei'ally  em- 
ployed for  this  count  of  yarn.  The  cot- 
ton used  may  be  a  peeler  of  1%-inch 
staple. 

THE  MIXING 
would  be  done  as  described  in  previous 
articles,  the  good  sliver  waste  from  the 
machines  up  to  the  slubber  being 
thrown  into  the  mixing  bin.  If  the 
equipment  of  machinery  does  not  in- 
clude a  roving  waste  machine,  a  good 
way  to  mix  the  roving  waste  is  as  fol- 
lows: Run  the  roving  waste  through 
a  picker,  allowing  il  to  run  on  the  floor 
at  the  front,  and  not  formed  into  a  lap 
as  is  generally  done;  this  is  then 
gathered  up  and  scattered  over  the  mix- 
ing. This  is  a  very  good  method,  but 
is  not  generally  used  on  account  of  the 
pickers  having  all  they  can  do  to  keep 
up  with  the  cards.  This  class  of  work 
is  put  through  an  opener  and  three 
processes  of  pickers.  The  pickers,  if 
supplied  with  a  rigid  type  of  beater 
having  two  blades,  have  the  following 

SPEEDS 
at  each  process:  Breaker  picker,  1,500 
revolutions  per  minute;  the  fan  speed 
1,400  revolutions  per  minute;  interme- 
diate picker,  1,450  revolutions  per  min- 
ute;   fan   speed,    1,050   revolutions  per 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  yarns  of  which  brilliante  is  com- 
posed are  made  in  mills  of  the  second 


minute;  finisher  picker,  1,450  revolu- 
tions per  minute;  fan  speed,  1,100  revo- 
lutions per  minute.  The  weights  of  the 
lap  at  the  different  processes  are  as 
follows,  the  doubling  at  each  process 
after  the  breaker  picker  being  4  into  1: 
breaker  picker,  total  weight,  40 
pounds;  weight  per  yard,  16  ounces;  in- 
termediate picker,  39  pounds  or  a  12- 
ounce  lap,  and  finisher  picker,  36 
pounds  or  a  12i/^-ounce  lap.  Of  course 
the  laps  should  be  kept  of  as  even  a 
weight  as  possible,  a  variation  of  only 
S  ounces  either  side  of  the  standard 
weight  being  allowed  at  the  finisher 
picker.     These  laps  are  put  up 

AT  THE  CARD 
and   for  this   fabric  the     draft  should 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


257 


-not  be  less  than  110.  The  licker-in 
speed  should  be  300  revolutions  per 
minute.  Flats  should  make  one  com- 
plete revolution  every  38  or  40  min- 
utes. The  weight  per  yard  of  the  sliver 
at  front  is  50  grains  per  yard  and  pro- 
duction for  a  week  of  60  hours  is  550 
pounds.  Set  doffer  to  cylinder  to  a 
o-l,000th-inch  gauge;  licker-in  to  cylin- 
der to  a  7-l,000th-inch  gauge.  Set  cylin- 
der screen  at  licker-in  to  12  gauge,  at 
centre  to  a  34  gauge,  and  at  front,  i/4 
inch. 

Set  back  plate  to  cylinder  at  10  gauge 
at  bottom  and  at  22  at  top;  licker-in 
screen  to  licker-in,  3-16ths  inch  from 
licker-in.  Set  licksr-in  knives,  top 
knife  at  12  gauge,  bottom  knife  at  5 
gauge;  if  only  one  knife,  set  at  5 
gauge.  Set  feed  plate  to  cylinder  ac- 
cording  to   length   of   staple.     This   is 

AN  IMPORTANT  POINT 
many  times  overlooked  by  men  in 
charge.  The  general  rule  is  to  set 
at  this  point  the  same  for  all  lengths  of 
staple.  This  is  wrong,  because  in  short- 
staple  cotton  the  feed  plate  should  be 
set  closer  than  for  long  stock.  For  ex- 
ample, suppose  the  feed  plate  is  set 
to  licker-in  at  7  gauge  for  1%-inch 
stock  and  we  will  say  that  this  gives 
the  distance  from  bite  of  feed  roll  to 
licker-in  1%  inches.  Now  we  change 
to  1 34 -inch  Sea  Island  stock.  If  we  do 
not  reset  the  feed  plate  we  are  almost 
sure  to  break  the  fibre,  and  if  the  cot- 
ton is  stapled  at  the  front  of  card  and 
compared  with  the  staple  at  the  back, 
it  will  be  seen  that  this  is  what  is  be- 
ing done.  Of  course  the  proper  remedy 
for  this  is  to  get  a  feed  plate  with  the 
proper  shaped  nose  for  each  length  of 
staple,  but  it  is  not  always  possible 
to  do  so;  the 

NEXT  BEST  REMEDY 
is  to  set  the  feed  plate  farther  back  or 
to  slow  down  the  speed  of  your  licker- 
in.  so  that  the  fibres  will  not  be  struck 
away  from  the  feed  roll  so  quickly. 
If  the  setting  at  this  point  is  the  same 
for  all  staples  and  gives  a  variation 
of  i/^-inch  length  in  staple  at  front  and 
back,  note  result.  If  the  staple  breaks, 
it  is  weakened  so  much.  Set  top  flats 
to  12  gauge  at  back  and  to  10  gauge  at 
other  setting  points.  Set  front  strip- 
ping plate  to  22  gauge  at  bottom  and  at 
top  set  from  a  7  to  a  12  gauge,  accord- 
ing to  the   strip  wanted. 

At  the  sliver  lap  machine  the  doub- 
lings are  14  into  1  for  an  8%-inch  lap, 
the  weight  of  a  yard  of  lap  being  295 
grains.  These  are  doubled  6  into  1  at 
ribbon  lap,  the  weight  being  275  grains 
per   yard.    At   the   comber  these   laps 


are  doubled  either  six  or  eight  into 
one  according  to  the  number  of  heads. 
For  a  G-head  comber  the  sliver  at  coil- 
er  should  weigh  45  grains  per  yard; 
speed  of  comber,  90  nips  per  minute; 
percentage  of  waste,  15;  and  draft 
about  27.50.  Use  same  setting  and 
timing  as  given  in  previous  articles. 
At 

THE  DRAWING  FRAME 
two  processes  are  used,  the  doublings 
being  6  into  1  at  each  process.  The 
speed  of  front  roll  at  each  process 
should  be  400  revolutions  per  minute, 
and  the  weight  of  the  sliver  at  the 
finisher  drawing  should  be  70  grains 
per  yard.  At  the  slubber  this  is  made 
into  .60  hank  roving  and  is  put  through 
two  processes  of  fly  frames,  the  hank 
roving  at  each  process  for  the  50s  warp 
being  2.50  at  first  intermediate,  and  10 
hank  at  second  process.  For  the  SOs 
the  hank  roving  at  the  first  intermedi- 
ate is  2  and  at  the  second  process  6 
hank.  Look  out  for  the  points  that 
have  been  explained  in  previous  arti- 
cles. At  the  spinning  room  the  rov- 
ing for  warp  yarn  is  spun  into  50s  un- 
der the  following  conditions:  diameter 
of  ring,  IVz  inches;  length  of  traverse, 
6  inches;  twist  per  inch,  31.80;  spin- 
dle speed,  10,000  revolutions  per  min- 
ute. The  filling  yarn  is  mule  spun, 
with  2.75  times  the  square  root  of 
count  for  standard  twist. 


Dyeing   Particulars. 
NAVY  BLUE. 
Four  per  cent  naphtamine  blue  2  B; 
25  per  cent  Glauber's;   3  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

PINK. 
One-half  per  cent  Erika  pink  G;    20 
per  cent  Glauber's;  1  per  cent  sal  soda. 

SKY  BLUE. 
One-half  per  cent  diamine  sky  blue 
F  F;  10  per  cent  Glauber's;  1  per  cent 
sal  soda, 

PEA  GREEN. 
One  per  cent  diamine  sky  blue;    ^ 
per  cent  chrysophenine;     20    per    cent 
Glauber's;  1  per  cent  sal  soda. 

ECRU. 
One-half    ounce    naphtamine    brown 
N;  iy2  ounces  naphtamine  yellow  N  N; 
10  pounds  salt;  1  per  cent  sal  soda. 

YELLOW. 
One  per  cent  direct  yellow  G  cone;  20 
per  cent  salt;  1  per  cent  sal  soda. 

RED. 
Three  and   one-half  per  cent  direct 


258 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


scarlet  B  cone;  25  per  cent  salt;  2  per 
cent  sal  soda. 

BROWN. 

Four  per  cent  naphtamine  brown  R 

G;  30  per  cent  salt;  2  per  cent  sal  soda. 

GREEN. 

Four  per  cent  diamine  green  G;   % 

per   cent    diamine   fast   yellow   B;    25 

per   cent    salt;    3    per    cent    sal    soda. 


BOOK  MUSLIN, 

Book  muslin  is  a  textile  term  that  is 
somewhat  of  a  misnomer,  not  having 
any  connection  with  fabrics  used  for 
book  coverings.  The  goods  are  used 
very  extensively  for  stiffening  and 
lining  clothing  and  for  the  foundation 
work  of  ladies'  hats;  they  are  distin- 
guished more  by  the  feel  or  finish  than 
by  appearance.  They  vary  in  appear- 
ance from  plain  weave  to  small  checks. 
Being  made  more  for  utility  than  ef- 
fect, fancy  weaves  are  not  called  for  or 


DBOaDDaDBDBDBBBa 
DBGBDDDDBDBDBBBB 
DBaBDaDDBaaDBBBB 
BnBaBBBBDBDBaaOD 
DBDBaDnDBnBDBBBB 
BDBaBBBBaBDBaODD 
DBDBDODDBDBaBBBB 
BDBDBBBBDBDBCGDD 
FiR.l. 

I'l'iiii'i'i 
Fig.  2. 

nBDBDnDDBDBDi 


IDBOI 


IDBDBnDDn 

Fifr.  3. 

QBDB 

mnam 

OBDB 


BQBD 
DBDB 
BDBD 
Fig.  4 


necessary.  One  of  the  principal  weaves 
used  is  a  leno,  one  end  crossing  one. 

An  analysis  of  a  book  muslin  sam- 
ple showsthe  following  data:  Finished 
width,  32  inches;  24s  yarn  in  both 
warp  and  filling,  54  ends  and  45  picks 
per  inch. 

The  weave  is  shown  in  Fig.  1,  being 
on  16  ends  and  8  picks.  The  general 
effect  is  shown  by  8  ends  and  8  picks, 
the  next  8  ends  differing  only  in  the 
plain  weave  being  reversed.  Fig.  2 
shows  the  harness  draft  and  Fig.  3, 
the  reed  draft.  The  warp  yarns  aver- 
age 8  ends  in  5  dents,  there  being  16 
ends  in  10  dents  per  pattern.  The  4 
ends  working  as  1  are  drawn  through 
one  heddle.  The  chain  draft  is  shown 
at  Fig.  4,  the  working  of  the  first 
two,  or  selvedge,  harnesses  being 
plain. 


Stop  pegs  are  not  required,  the  J 
picks  in  1  shed  coming  into  contact 
with  each  other. 

Another  book  muslin  fabric  under 
consideration  contains  the  same 
counts  of  yarns  as  the  other  sample. 
The  count  of  this  cloth  is  43x38,  and 
the  width  35  inches  finished.  The 
weave  is  plain. 

Book  muslins     are     usually     wovea 
white  and  piece  dyed  in  solid  colors. 
LOOM    REQUIRED. 

Any  of  the  three  classes  of  weaves 
mentioned  may  be  woven  on  single 
box,  fast,  light  running  looms.  Tbe 
sample  analyzed  would  require  a  dob- 
by  loom.  The  leno  and  plain  weave 
samples  could  be  woven  best  on  cam 
looms.  One  beam  only  is  required, 
FINISHING. 

Before  finishing,  the  goods  feel  very 
sleazy.  The  effect  obtained  by  finish- 
ing is  to  change  this  cloth  into  a  very 
stiff,  board-like  fabric.  Goods  for  lin- 
ings are  sized  the  least;  those  for  stif- 
fening and  millinery  purposes  are  sized 
heavily. 

After  being  woven,  the  cloth  is 
washed,  dyed,  dried,  sized,  dried  and 
folded  as  desired.  No  burling,  singeing 
or  shearing  is  required,  as  perfect 
cloth  is  not  absolutely  essential  apd 
the  glue  or  size,  combined  with  the 
pressing,  lays  the  loose  fibres. 

In  sizing,  the  cloth  passes  through 
the  size  box  and  on  to  the  drying  cyl- 
inders. If  a  glazed  finish  is  required, 
it  is  svibjected  to  pressure  by  the  heat- 
ed T'ollers  of  the  calender  machine. 

The  sizing  substances  are  usually 
glue,  gum,  flour  and  size,  of  variable 
proportions,  mixed  with  water  to  the 
desired  consistency.  The  weight  of 
size  in  a  piece  will  vary  from  about 
5  per  cent  to  40  per  cent  of  the  entire 
weight. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  yarns  that  make  up  book  mus- 
lin are  made  in  mills  of  the  first  ;md 
second  divisions.  For  this  class  of  fab- 
ric a  short-staple  medium  grade  of 
cotton  is  used.  The  general  staple  is 
about  one  inch.  In  the  better  quali- 
ties of  this  fabric  only  the  raw  stock 
is  used  in  the  mixture,  but  the  poorer 
qualities  contain  a  certain  percentage 
of  waste,  either  comber  or  card  being 
used  according  to  the  quality  required. 
For  this  article  we  will  consider  that 
the  mixture  is  made  up  without  waste. 

THE  MIXING 
for  this  class  of  cotton  should  be  as 
large  as   possible  because   production 
is  looked  to  more  than  quality,  but  the 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


259 


quality  should  be  as  good  as  possible. 
The  cotton  is  put  through  an  opener 
and  three  processes  of  pickers.  The 
speed  of  the  beater  of  the  opener 
should  be  1,050  revolutions  per  minute, 
the  fan  on  this  machine  making  350 
revolutions  per  minute.  This  opener 
is  generally  directly  connected  to  the 
breaker  picker.  This  picker  may  be 
provided  with  either  a  pin,  or,  as  it  is 
sometimes  called,  a  carding  beater,  or 
a  rigid  tj^pe  having  either  two  or  three 
blades.  If  a  two-bladed  rigid  beater, 
the  speed  should  be  1,500  revolutions 
per  minute;  if  a  three-bladed  beater, 
the  speed  should  be  reduced  to  1,000 
revolutions  per  minute.  The  fan  speed 
should  be  1,400  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  draft  of  this  picker  should  be 
about  1.85.     The 

WEIGHT  OF  THE  LAP 
at  the  front  should  be,  total,  40 
pounds;  weight  per  yard,  16  ounces. 
These  laps  are  put  up  and  doubled  4 
into  1  at  the  intermediate  picker.  The 
beater  of  this  picker,  if  a  two-bladed 
rigid  type,  makes  1,450  revolutions  per 
minute  with  a  fan  speed  of  1,050  revo- 
lutions per  minute  and  a  draft  of  2.80. 
The  total  weight  of  lap  at  the  front  is 
38  pounds  or  a  10-ounce  lap.  These 
laps  are  put  up  at  the  finisher  picker 
and  doubled  4  into  1.  The  speed  of 
this  beater,  if  two  bladed,  should  be 
1,450'  revolutions  per  minute;  fan 
speed,  1,100  revolutions  per  minute; 
draft,  2.80;  weight  of  laps  at  front,  39 
pounds  or  a  1414-ounce  lap.  The 
stock  passing  through  this  machine 
with  these  speeds  receives  about  41 
blows  or  beats  per  inch.  At  the  card 
the  speed  of  the  licker-in  varies  from 
300  to  350  revolutions  per  minute,  ac- 
cording to  make  of  card.  The  speed 
of  flats  is  1  revolution  every  45  min- 
utes (110  flats), 

THE  CARDS 
should  be  stripped  at  least  three 
times  a  day  and  the  doffer  should  be 
stripped  an  extra  time  if  a  very  large 
production  is  being  turned  off.  Use  a 
coarse  wire  fillet  for  both  doffer  and 
cylinder  for  cards  on  this  stock,  and 
use  settings  given  for  indi- 
go prints  in  a  previous  article.  The 
draft  of  the  card  should  not  ex- 
ceed 100  for  this  class  of  goods.  The 
weight  of  the  sliver  should  be  65 
grains  per  yard  and  the  production 
850  pounds  for  a  week  of  60  hours. 
Grind  cards  as  previously  stated.  The 
card  sliver  is  next  put  through  two 
processes  of  drawing,  the  doublings 
being  6  into  1  at  each  process.  The 
speed  of  the  front  roll  is  400  revolu- 
tions per  minute  for  leather  top  rolls 


and  375  for  metallic  top  rolls.     Metal- 
lic top  rolls  will  be  found  to  be 

AN  ADVANTAGE 
on  this  class  of  stock,  but  should  be 
looked  after  to  see  that  they  are  prop- 
erly set.  Generally  speaking,  metallic 
rolls  should  be  set  3-16ths  of  an  inch 
farther  apart  than  leather  top  covered 
rolls.  If  metallic  rolls  are  used,  care 
should  be  taken  to  see  that  they  are 
the  same  distance  apart  their  entire 
length,  because  if  they  have  sprung, 
cut  work  will  be  the  result.  The  flutes 
of  these  rolls  should  be  kept  clean  and 
the  bearings  well  oiled  and  clean  or 
bad  results  will  be  obtained.  The 
weight  of  the  sliver  at  the  front  of 
both  breaker  and  finisher  drawings 
should  be  72  grains  per  yard.  Draw- 
ings should  be  sized  four  times  a  day. 
The  drawing  should  be  put  up  to  the 
slubber  and  made  into  .50  hank  roving 
and  put  through  two  processes  of 

FLY  FRAMES. 
At  the    first  intermediate  it    is  made 
into  2  hank  roving  and  at  the  second 
5  hank.    Of  course  these  hank  rovings 
will  depend  a  great  deal  on  the  way  a 
room  is  balanced  and  the  amount  of 
production    to   be   turned    off.      Some- 
times two  different  stocks  of  the  same 
length  of  staple  will  be  run  together 
at  the  slubber  and  first  intermediate 
frames  that     are   going  to     be   made 
into  two  different  counts  of  yarn.  This 
is  often  done  in  rooms  where  there  are 
not  enousrh  frames  to  have  each  frame 
run  a  different  stock,  so  that  it  may  be 
necessary  to  alter  the  draft  and  hank 
roving  of  one  or  both  stocks  to  the  best 
advantage  of   each.     Thus   it  will   be 
seen  that  the  hanks  and  drafts  given 
here  may  be  used  as  a  foundation  from 
which  to  work,  and  used  if  each  ma- 
chine is  using     this  one  staple,     and 
gi-ade  and  kind  of  cotton.     The  roving 
is   taken   to   the   spinning   frame   and 
made     into  24s  yarn.       At  the     warp 
frame   use  a  2-inch   diameter  ring,   7- 
inch  traverse,  23.27  twist  per  inch  and 
9,400   revolutions   per   minute    spindle 
speed.       For  a  filling  frame  use  1%- 
inch  diameter  ring,  614-inch  traverse, 
15.9    twist     per   inch    and    a     spindle 
speed  of  7,600  revolutions  per  minute. 
A  heavy  sizing  is  used  for  this  class 
of  goods. 


Dyeing  Partitulars. 
Dyed  on  the  jig  machine. 

BLACK. 
Five  per  cent  oxy diamine  black  A  T; 
per  cent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent  salt. 

BROWN. 
Five  per  cent  diamine  brown  B;    1 


2C0 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow  B;  2  per 
cent  sal  soda;  25  per  cent  salt. 
SLATE. 
One  and  one-half  per  cent  diamine 
black  B  H;  2  ounces  diamine  fast  yel- 
low B;  2  per  cent  sal  soda;  25  per  cent 
salt;  make  up  a  starch  liquor  with  10 
ounces  dextrine;  1  gallon  water;  mix 
cold.  Add  a  little  color  to  match  shade 
required,  and  boil  well  for  one  hour. 
Starch  on  mangle  and  dry  on  the  ten- 
ter frame. 


MULL, 


Mull  may  be  defined  as  a  thin,  plain 
woven  fabric,  of  which  there  are  sev- 
eral varieties,  as  Swiss,  India,  starched, 
China  or  silk.  The  China  or  silk  mull 
is  a  union  fabric,  usually  with  cotton 
warp  and  silk  filling.  This  is  the 
finest  fabric  of  the  above-mentioned 
varieties  and  is  used  exclusively  for 
dress  goods. 

The  Swiss  and  India  mulls  are  fine, 
soft-bleached  cotton  fabrics,  principal- 
ly used  for  dress  goods. 

THE    STARCHED    MULL 
is   somewhat   coarser   than   the    Swiss 
or  India  mull  and  is  used     principal- 


DBnaaaoa 
mau   BGHG 

DBGBGBDa 
■JBGBOBG 
DBGBGBQB 
BGBGBGBG 
DBGBGBGB 
BGBGBGBG 

Fig.  1. 
Design. 


DGGGGGGB 
G3Z~ZZBG 

CGGGBGGG 
DGGBGnGG 
GGBCGGGG 
□BGGGGGG 
BDGGGGGQ 

Fig.  2. 
Draft. 


ly  for  stiffening  in  various  parts  of 
a  dress,  usually  dresses  of  unwashable 
material,  and  is  also  used  as  a  founda- 
tion for  ladies'  silk  trimmed  hats,  cur- 
tains, etc.  Starched  mull  is  a  plain, 
loosely  woven  fabric  and  is  stiffened 
in  the  finishing  process  by  sizing. 

These  various  qualities  of  mull  dif- 
fer in  point  of  texture  considerably 
from  one  another;  the  silk  mull  is  in 
point  of  texture  twice  as  fine  as  some 
grades  of  cotton  mull. 

The  China  or  silk  mull  and  also  the 
cotton  mull  used  for  dress  purposes 
are   characterized  by   their 

SOFTNESS. 
This  feature  is  partially  brought  about 
by  the  materials  used  and  partially  by 
the  finish  which  the  fabric  receives. 
The  silk  mull  requires  less  attention 
in  finishing,  as  the  materials  used  in 
the  coHStruction  of  the  fabric,  the  silk 
filling  in     particular,     and     the     high 


grade  of  the  cotton  warp,  are  in  them- 
selves conducive  to  producing  a  soft 
fabric. 

In  the  cheaper  grades  of  cotton  mull, 
wherein  the  coai'ser  counts  of  yarn 
are  used,  the  warp  yarn  must  first  be 
well  sized  so  as  to  withstand  the  ten- 
sion and  strain  incurred  during  the 
process  of  weaving.  This  sizing, 
while  it  strengthens  the  warp  yarn, 
imparts  to  the  fabric  a  harsh  handle 
or  feel,  due  to  the  ingredients  used  in 
the  size,  which  may  be  wheat,  flour, 
farina  or  sago  and  a  small  quantity  of 
softening  materials,  usually  tallow  or 
wax.  The  softening  materials  are 
necessary  in  order  to  make  the  yarn 
pliable;  otherwise  it  would  be  inclined 
to  be  too  brittle  to  weave  readily.  Af- 
ter the  fabric  is  woven  and  ready  for 
the  finisher  it  is  subjected  to  a 
WASHING  PROCESS, 
which  takes  out  all  the  sizing  mate- 
rials in  the  warp  yarn,  after  which  the 
fabric  is  subjected  to  a  combination  of 
sizing  materials  for  the  sole  purpose 
of  softening  the  fabric.  The  above 
process  applies  more  particularly  to 
the  all-cotton  fabrics. 

This  class  of  fabrics — mull — requires 
very  little  ingenuity  on  the  part  of 
the  designer  to  produce,  there  being  no 
ornamental  features  or  fancy  weaves. 
The  goods  are  plain  woven,  depending 
for  their  beauty  or  attractiveness  en- 
tirely on  the  finishing.  Mull  made  for 
dress  goods  is  of  fine  texture,  and  is 
finished  very  soft,  while  the  fabric  in- 
tended for  lining  or  decorative  pur- 
poses is  much  coarser  in  texture  than 
the  dress  fabric,  and  is  stiffened  in  the 
finishing  and  commonly  known  as 
starched  mull. 

The  goods  are  usually 

WOVEN  IN  THE  GRAY 
and  the  bulk  of  them  are  finished  pure 
white  or  bleached,  although  these  fab- 
rics  may   be   obtained   in   almost   any 
color  desired. 

The  China  or  silk  mull  is  usually, 
like  the  all-cotton  fabric,  finished  un- 
dyed.  In  the  former  case,  however, 
the  cotton  yarn  is  bleached  in  the 
hank.  The  silk  filling  used  in  this  fab- 
ric is  raw  silk,  viz.,  tram  silk.  This  is 
soft  and  very  pliable  and  lends  itself 
readily  to  the  production  of  a  soft  fab- 
ric. The  filaments  of  raw  silk  cannot 
be  spun  into  a  thread  like  wool  and 
cotton,  as  they  have  no  peculiarities  of 
surface  that  correspond  to  the  scales 
on  the  surface  of  the  wool  fibres;  the 
wool  fibres,  when  spun  into  a  thread, 
are  arranged  so  that  these  scales  are 
opposed  to  one  another  as  much  as  pos- 
sible  and   thereby   interlock   and   hold 


j^;  lofi  lio.foo.li-"" 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


261 


fast  to  one  another,  and  the  more  the 
threads  are  spun,  the  closer  they 
engage  one  another  and  in  conse- 
quence produce  a  stronger  thread.  The 
peculiarities  of  the  cotton  fibre  are  its 
twists.  The  cotton  fibre  under  the  mi- 
croscope appears  as  a  thin  flat  tube  or 
ribbon,  considerably  twisted;  these 
twists  in  the  fibres  give  strength  to 
the  thread  by  interlacing  with  one  an- 
other somewhat  on  the  order  of  the 
scales  in  the  woolen  threads.  In  silk, 
however,  the  filaments  can  only  be 
made  into  a  thread  by  twisting  a  num- 
ber of  the  filaments-  into  fine  threads, 
and  these  threads  are  again  twisted  un- 
til a  thread  of  the  desired  count  is  ob- 
tained. Following  is  an 
ANALYSIS 
of  a  cotton  and  silk  fabric: 

Width  of  warp  in  reed,  2S%  inches; 
width  of  fabric  finished,  27  inches; 
ends  per  inch  in  reed,  76;  ends  per  inch 
finished,  SO;  ends  in  warp  including 
selvedges,  2,200;  reed,  1,400x2;  warp 
yarn,  l-60s  cotton. 

Filling,   one  dram     silk,     tram;      54 
picks. 
ANALYSIS   OF  STARCHED   MULL. 

Width  of  warj)  in  reed,  33%  inches; 
width  of  fabric  finished,  30  inches; 
ends  per  inch  in  reed,  36;  ends  per 
inch  finished,  40;  ends  in  warp  includ- 
ing selvedge,  1,220;  reed,  1,300x1;  warp 
l-50s  cotton. 

Filling,   l-54s  cotton;    36  picks. 
LOOM     REQUIRED. 

Any  ordinary  single  box  loom  may 
be  used  for  weaving  this  fabric.  The 
speed  of  the  loom  is  the  most  impor- 
tant consideration  if  the  selection  of 
loom  be  optional;  the  finer  grades  of 
mull  are  usually  woven  on  eight  har- 
nesses, straight  draft,  while  the  coars- 
er grades  are  confined  to  four  har- 
nesses, drawn  in  the  following  order: 
1,  3,  2,  4. 

FINISHING. 

Mull  made  for  dress  goods  is  of  a 
very  fine  texture  and  softened  in  the 
finishing.  This  is  accomplished  by 
immersing  the  fabric  in  a  solution  of 
oily  matters,  the  ingredients  being 
composed  of  a  liberal  percentage  of 
glycerine  or  cocoanut  oil  and  a  very 
small  quantity  of  farina.  Chloride  of 
magnesium  may  be  used  with  good  re- 
sults. This  is  a  very  powerful  soft- 
ener, as  well  as  a  weighting  material, 
and  has  a  great  affinity  for  water,  and 
has  the  power  of  attracting  moisture 
to  the  cloth  in  which  it  is  used.  This 
attraction  of  moisture  really  constitutes 
the  softening  effect.  The  above  meth- 
od of  softening  applies  in  particular  to 


all-cotton  mull.  In  the  silk  filling 
goods  the  fabric  is  usually  only  boiled 
off,  then  run  through  a  rotary  press. 
For  stiffening  the  fabric,  the 
goods,  after  they  are  bleached,  are  im- 
mersed in  a  solution  of  size  composed 
of  flour,  tallow,  and  gum  arable;  this 
stiffening  is  done  in  front  of  the  dry- 
ing cylinders,  the  goods  running 
through  the  sizing  trough  on  to  the 
cylinders,  which  completes  the  finish- 


Bleaching  Particulars. 

Boil  with  4  degrees  Tw.  caustic 
soda  in  a  kier  for  12  hours,  and  run 
through  washing  machine. 

Give  a  second  boil  with  4  degrees 
Tw.  caustic  soda. 

Wash  through  machine  and  run 
through  solution  of  chloride  of  lime  at 
Vz  degree  Tw.  Place  in  bin  for  two 
hours.  Pass  through  a  solution  of  sul- 
phuric acid  %  degree  Tw.  Pass 
through  washing  machine  till  all 
trace  of  acid  is  eliminated. 


Starching   Particulars. 

One  gallon:  4  ounces  dextrine,  4 
ounces  cornstarch.  Boil  for  one  hour 
and  starch  through  mangle. 

Dry  on  the  tenter  frame. 


LINON, 


Linon,  usually  termed  India  linon 
or  India  linen,  is  a  fine,  closely  woven 
plain  fabric  well  known  for  its  excel- 
lent wearing  and  washing  qualities.  It 
is  made  from  combed  cotton  yarns  of 
long-stapled  stock. 

It  is  made  in  various  widths,  from  27 
inches  to  36  inches,  and  in  slightly 
varying  constructions  and  qualities. 
The  goods  are  made  to  resemble  as 
closely  as  possible  fine  linen  fabrics. 
The  cloth  structure  is  firmly  made  in 
the  loom. 

The  analysis  of  a  good  quality  India 
linon  fabric  shows  the  following  data: 
Ends  per  inch,  108;  picks  per  inch, 
110;  finished  width,  36  inches;  warp, 
90s;  filling,  110s.  Each  selvedge  con- 
sists of  16  ends  of  2-90s. 

The  yarns  v/ere  reeded  2  ends  per 
dent  in  the  loom.  The  selvedges  were 
also  reeded  2  ends  per  dent,  i.  e.,  2-ply 
yarns.  Two  of  these  would  be  equal  to 
4  of  the  single  yarns. 

Woven  with  about  94  ends  per  inch 
in  the  loom,  it  will  be  seen  that  a  very 


262 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY, 


fine  reed  has  been  used.  This  was  nec- 
essary in  order  that  an  even  surface, 
practically  free  from  reed  marks, 
should  result. 

LOOM  REQUIRED. 
The  goods  may  be  woven  on  a  single 
box  plain  loom  of  not  too  light  con- 
struction. On  account  of  the  fairly 
large  number  of  picks  per  inch  and  the 
fine  quality  of  cloth,  a  firm,  steady 
take-up  motion  on  the  loom  is  neces- 
sary. 

The  ends  are  drawn  in  in  the  regu- 
ular  1,  3,  2,  4  skip  shaft  order,  on 
twine  harnesses.  One  warp  beam  only 
is  required.  Practically  all  fabrics 
usually  woven  on  cam  looms  may  also 
be  woven  on  dobby  looms,  if  necessary. 
To  weave  the  fabric  under  consid- 
eration, on  a  dobby  loom,  the  ends 
should  be  drawn  in  straight  on  at  least 
S  harnesses  to  prevent  overcrowding 
of  the  heddles. 

FINISHING. 
A  good  finish  for  these  goods  is  to 
singe,  wash,  bleach,  size  or  starch  with 
a  light  Indian  corn  or  potato  starch, 
the  former  material  being  preferable; 
then  calender,  dry  and  make  up  as  re- 
quired. A  second  dampening  and  cal- 
endering, following  the  first  calender- 
ing, improves  the  quality  of  the  finish. 
Very  little  stiffening  or  starch  is  used 
because  the  goods  are  intended  to  be 
washed  frequently.  When  finished, 
the  goods  have  the  appearance  of  a 
smooth  linen  finished  lawn.  They  are 
slightly  glossy. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  division  of  mills  that  make  the 
yarns  that  India  linon  is  composed 
of  is  the  third.  This  division  of  mills, 
as  given  in  a  previous  article,  is  the 
one  that  makes  the  finest  yarns  and 
is  equipped  with  machinery  suitable 
to  do  this.  India  linon  is  made  from 
a  good  quality  of  Sea  Island  cotton  of 
about  1%  to  1%  inch  staple.  For  this 
class  of  goods  it  is  quality  and  not 
quantity  that  is  the  main  considera- 
tion. The  cotton  is  mixed  as  has  been 
described  in  previous  articles,  the 
good  sliver  being  mixed  in  at  this 
point,  as  well  as  laps  that  are  too  light 
and  cut  sliver  waste,  if  any  is  made 
at  any  of  the  processes.  Some  over- 
seers put  cut  sliver  through  the  last 
process  again,  and  let  it  go  at  that, 
but  the  only  proper  method  to  remedy 
this  kind  of  work  is  to  put  it  back  in- 
to the  mixing. 

FOR  THIS  FABRIC 
the   cotion    is   put   through   two   proc- 


esses of  pickers,  and  an  opener.  The 
opener  should  be  kept  as  full  as  possi- 
ble so  that  as  even  a  feed  as  possible 
will  be  obtained.  The  breaker  picker 
is  generally  equipped  with  a  two- 
bladed  rigid  type  of  beater,  the  speed 
of  which  is  1,200  revolutions  per  min- 
ute. Some  overseers  prefer  a  pin  beat- 
er, but  others  claim  that  it  puts  neps 
into  long-staple  cotton.  This  is  un- 
doubtedly due  to  improper  setting  as 
well  as  not  running  it  at  the  proper 
speed.  The  weight  of  the  lap  at  the 
front  of  this  picker  is  32  pounds  or  a 
9% -ounce  lap.  These  laps  are  doubled 
4  into  1  at  the  finisher  picker.  This 
picker  has  a  two-bladed  beater,  whose 
speed  is  1,050  revolutions  per  minute, 
or  about  29  beats  per  minute.  The 
speed  of  this  beater  should  be  just 
high  enough  to  get  the  dirt  out  of  the 
cotton  and  not  injure  it.  The  total 
weight  of  the  lap  at  the  front  of  the 
picker  is  30  pounds  or  a  9%-ounce  lap. 
A  variation  of  6  ounces  either  side  of 
standard  is  allowed;  if  laps  weigh  out- 
side of  this  they  are  either  put  through 
the  finisher  picker  again  or  if  a  great 
deal  too  light  or  too  heavy  they  are  put 
back  into  the  mixing  again.  These ' 
laps  are  put  up  at  the  card.  The 
cards  used  for  this  stock  should  be  kept 
free  of  all  dirt,  etc.,  and  the  card  fillet 
should  be  kept  sharp  and  parts  proper- 
ly set  to  each  other.  The  flats  should 
make 

ONE  COMPLETE  REVOLUTION 
every  35  minutes,  the  licker-in  speed 
should  not  exceed  280  revolutions  per 
minute,  and  the  weight  of  the  sliver  at 
the  front  should  be  40  grains  per  yard. 
It  is  an  important  point  that  the  cards 
should  be  kept  extra  clean.  The  pro- 
duction of  a  card  for  a  week  of  60 
hours  should  not  exceed  275  pounds. 
The  draft  should  be  not  less  than  130. 
After  passing  through  the  cards,  the 
sliver  is  generally  put  through  sliver 
lap,  ribbon  lap  and  comber  processes. 
At  the  sliver  lap  the  doublings  for  an 
8%-inch  lap  are  14  into  1.  The  weight 
of  a  yard  of  lap  at  the  front  of  this  ma- 
chine is  220  grains.  These  laps  ai-e  put 
up  at  the  ribbon  lap  machine  and 
doubled  6  into  1.  The  weight  of  a 
yard  of  sliver  at  the  front  of  this  ma- 
chine is  210  grains.  These  are  put  up 
at  the  comber  and  doubled  6  into  1  if  a 
six-head  comber,  or  2  into  1,  if  comb- 
er is  an  eight-head  comber.  Set  and 
time  the  comber  for  this  stock  the 
same  as  given  in  a  previous  article  on 
Sea  Island  cotton.  Keep  all  parts 
of  comber  that  the  cotton  comes  in 
contact  with  well  polished  and  free 
from   dirt.     If   more     than     one     end 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


2C3 


breaks  on  the  table  the  sliver  at  the 
front  should  be  broken  before  entering 
the  coiler  and  the  broken  ends  pieced 
up  before  the  sliver  is  allowed  to  en- 
ter can.  If  any  single  has  entered  the 
can,  it  should  of  course  be  removed 
and  the  end  properly  pieced  again;  be 
sure  and  make  a  good  piecing,  not  one 
that  will  break  back  at  the  succeeding 
process  or  one  that  will  not  draw  out. 
The  sliver  is  then  put  through  three 
processes  of  drawing,  the  doublings  of 
which  are  all  6  into  1.  The  weight  of 
the  drawing  at  the  front  of  the  finish- 
er drawing  should  be  65  grains  per 
yard.    For 

THIS  CLASS  OF  WORK 
leather  top  rolls  are  generally  used. 
These  should  be  kept  well  oiled  and 
varnished  and  in  perfect  order.  The 
drawings  should  be  sized  four  times 
a  day  and  the  ribbon  lap  at  least  once 
a  day.  Look  out  to  see  that  your  stop- 
motions  are  all  in  perfect  order  and 
working.  Be  sure  that  there  are  no 
laps  on  the  third  bottom  steel  roll  or 
in  fact  on  any  roll,  as  this  will  tend  to 
produce  cut  sliver  as  well  as  throw 
the  size  out.  Keep  drawing  on  heavy 
size  of  standard  weight.  This  sliver  is 
next  put  up  at  the  slubber  and  drawn 
into  .80  hank  roving.  The  bottom  steel 
rolls  should  be  a  little  larger  in  diam- 
eter than  when  used  for  shorter  staple. 
This  is  in  order  to  prevent  licking. 
•The  clearers  on  the  slubber  should  be 
picked  frequently  and  not  allowed  to 
collect  until  they  drop  down  and  pass 
into  the  work.  The  hank  roving  at  the 
fly  frame  is  as  follows:  for  filling  first 
intermediate,  2.25  hank;  second  inter- 
mediate, 5  hank;  fine,  20  hank;  for 
warp  yarn,first  intermediate,2.25hank; 
second.  5  hank,  and  fine,  18  hank;  for 
the  selvedge  yarn  use  the  same  hank 
roving  as  for  the  warp  yarn.  On  this 
grade  of  stock  the  slubber  rolls  should 
be  varnished  and  some  overseers  var- 
nish the  front  rolls  of  their  first  inter- 
mediate frame.  The  leather  top  rolls 
should  be 

IN  PERFECT  CONDITION 
and  special  care  should  be  given  to 
the  rail  or  carriage  and  the  parts  that 
operate  it  to  see  that  they  change 
sharply  and  that  there  is  no  dwell  at 
the  top  and  bottom  of  the  bobbin,  for 
this  may  cause  it  to  run  over  or  under 
and  make  a  bad  bobbin,  or  if  this 
does  not  happen,  it  will  break  back  at 
the  spinning  frame  or  mule  every  time 
it  gets  to  the  top  or  bottom  of  the  bob- 
bin, thus  causing  a  lot  of  trouble,  be- 
sides -the  liability  of  singles,  which 
should  be  looked  out  for  at  all  proc- 


esses. Full  bobbins  should  never  be 
thrown  into  the  boxes,  but  should  be 
packed.  The  roving  for  filling  may  be 
taken  to  either  the  mule  or  spinning 
room;  if  the  latter,  use  a  frame  having 
a  5-inch  traverse,  li/4-inch  diameter 
ring  and  a  spindle  speed  of  7,400  revo- 
lutions per  minute.  This  yarn  is  then 
conditioned.then  it  is  ready  to  use.  The 
warp  yarn  is  frame  spun  on  a  frame 
having  a  2%-inch  diameter  ring;  5-inch 
traverse,  and  a  spindle  speed  of  9,400 
revolutions  per  minute.  This  yarn  is 
put  through  the  spooler  and  warping 
processes  and  from  here  to  the  slasher, 
where  sufiicient  beams  are  put  up  at 
the  back  to  give  the  required  number 
of  ends  at  the  front.  For  this  class 
of  goods  the  following  size  mixture 
may  be  used:  Water,  100  gallons;  pota- 
to starch,  70  pounds;  tallow,  7  pounds; 
Yorkshire  gum,  3  pounds;  white  soap, 
2  pounds;  boil  two  hours  and  let  stand 
ten  hours.  Before  using,  keep  agitator 
lunning,  and  keep  size  at  almost  boil- 
ing point. 

Dyeing    Particulars. 
PINK. 
Two    ounces   diamine   fast   scarlet   4 
B;   1/2  pound  sal    soda;     20    per    cent 
Glauber's  salt. 

PEARL. 
Two  ounces  thion  violet  black  A;   3 
ounces  thion  black  T  B  C;   1  per  cent 
sulphide  sodium;  1  per  cent  soda  ash; 
20  per  cent  salt. 

NAVY  BLUE. 
Ten  per  cent  immedial  indone  B  B; 
10    per    cent   sulphide    sodium:    2    per 
cent  soda  ash;   20  per  cent  salt. 
LIGHT  BLUE. 
Five  per  cent  immedial  sky  blue  F; 
5  per  cent  sulphide  soda;    1  per  cent 
soda  ash;    20  per  cent  salt. 
ECRU. 
Four  ounces  thion  brown  G;    1  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;  2  per  cent  soda 
ash;    20  per   cent  salt. 

SAGE    GREEN. 
One  per  cent  thion  green  G;   Vz  per 
cent  thion  yellow  G;   \>k  Per  cent  sul- 
phide sodium;  2  per  cent  soda  ash;  20 
per  cent  salt. 

BROWN. 
Eight  per  cent  thion  brown  G;  2  per 
cent  thion  brown  O;   10  per  cent  sul- 
phide sodium;  2  per  cent  soda  ash;  30 
per  cent  Glauber's. 

MYRTLE  GREEN. 
Two  per  cent  thion  yellow  G;   6  per 
cent   thion   green   G;    8   per   cent  sul- 


264 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


phide  sodium;  2  per  cent  soda  ash;  30 
per  cent  Glaubers  salt. 
SLATE. 
Four  ounces  thion  black  T  R;  i^  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;   1  per  cent  soda 
ash:   15  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 


TAFFETA   SILK  LINING  OR 
TAFFETINE. 

This  is  a  fabric  made  with  a  silk 
warp,  cotton,  linen  or  wild  silk  filling. 
Taffetine  is  a  term  variously  used  at 
different  times;  specifically  it  is  a  fine, 
glossy,  closely  woven,  uncorded  and 
untwilled  fabric,  used  entirely  for 
ladies'  wear  in  the  form  of  a  lining, 
underskirts,  etc.  Taffetine  derives  its 
name  from  the  more  costly  fabric, 
taffeta.     This  fabric  is  of 

QUITE  ANCIENT  ORIGIN, 
being  in  use  as  early  as  the  16th  cen- 
tury as  a  dress  fabric  for  both  men 
and  women.  Taffeta  of  the  16th  cen- 
tury was  a  thick,  costly  fabric,  made 
with  silk  and  wool.  In  the  17th  cen- 
tury the  fabric  was  defined  as  a  soft, 
thin  fabric.  In  the  transition  the 
goods  have  undergone  a  complete 
change  of  texture  and  in  the  ISth  cen- 
tury taffeta  was  a  very  lustrous  silk 
fabric,  sometimes  checked  or  flowered 
or  striped  with  gold  and  silver. 

The  taffetine  under  consideration  is 
a  fine,  plain-woven  fabric  with  warp 
threads  per  inch  greatly  in  excess  of 
filling  threads  per  inch  and  the  warp 
of  a  much  finer  count  than  the  filling. 

THE  FINEST  QUALITIES 
of  fabrics  are  made  on  this  basis.  The 
warp  yarn  for  these  goods  is  inva- 
riably raw  silk,  technically  known  as 
organzine  or  thrown  silk,  and  the  fill- 
ing may  be  cotton,  linen  or  artificial 
silk. 

The  raw  silk  used  for  filling  in  silk 
fabrics  is  technically  known  as  tram 
silk.  This  is  similar  to  the  organzine; 
the  difference  lies  in  the  twisting  of 
the  filaments.  These  filaments  are  put 
together  very  loosely  with 

LITTLE   OR   NO   TWIST; 
consequently,    they   are  not   as   strong 
as  the  more  firmly  twisted  fibres,  but 
sufficiently  strong  to  answer  as  filling. 

When  the  filaments  cannot  be  drawn 
from  the  cocoon  in  one  continuous 
thread,  due  generally  to  the  cocoon 
being  damaged  by  the  worm  in  eating 
Its  way  out.  these  cocoons  are  torn  up 
and  the  filaments  are  combed  and  laid 


parallel  to  one  another,  and  the  thread 
made  from  the  damaged  cocoons  is 
known  as  spun  silk. 

The  spun  silk  is  not  as  smooth  or 
as  fine  as  the  raw  silk  thread,  although 
some  of  the  fibres  are  of  considerable 
length  and  strong  enough  to  be  used 
for  warp  threaas.  Spun  silk  is  cal- 
culated by  the  weight  of  1,000-yaid 
same  basis  as  cotton,  namely,  840 
yards  to  1  hank,  or,  840  yards  of  No. 
Is  equal  one  pound.  Raw  silk  is  cal- 
culated as  to  the  size  of  thread,  on  the 
hanks  in  drams  avoirdupois;  thus,  if 
one  hank  weighs  1  dram,  it  is  known 
as  1  dram  silk,  or  256,000  yards  equal 
1  pound. 

THE  FILLING 
for  these  fabrics  is  either  cotton,  lin- 
en or  wild  silk.  Linen  filling  is  used 
in  the  best  grades  of  taffetine;  linen 
yarn  is  prepared  similarly  to  worsted 
thread,  notwithstanding  that  linen  is 
a  vegetable  fibre.  The  raw  flax  is  first 
beaten  or  crushed  in  order  to  make  it 
pliable;  then  it  is  combed,  or  passes 
through  the  process  technically 
known  as  scutching.  Flax  fibres  must 
be  of  a  certain  length  in  order  to  work 
properly.  If  too  long,  they  are 
broken  in  a    machine    called    a    saw. 

After  the  fibres  are  combed  they  are 
carded  and  the  long  fibres  are  spun  in- 
to linen  yarn,  while  the  short  fibres 
are  converted  into  what  is  known  as 
tow  yarn.  Taffetine  is  sold  in  both 
narrow  and  wide  widths.  The  nar- 
row fabric  is  usually  about  19  inches 
wide.  This  narrow  fabric  is  common- 
ly 

WOVEN    DOUBLE    WIDTH, 
then  cut     in  two     after     the  fabric  is 
woven. 

In  order  that  the  ends  may  not  fray 
out  after  the  fabric  is  cut,  the  goods 
are  made  with  a  fast  centre  selvedge. 
In  warping,  extra  ends  are  allowed  just 
as  in  an  ordinary  outside  selvedge.  In 
the  centre  of  the  warp,  these  ends  are 
reeded  double  as  is  the  common  prac- 
tice for  reeding  selvedges,  leaving  one 
or  more  dents  empty  where  the  fab- 
ric is  to  be  cut. 

Fast  centre  selvedges  are  extensive- 
ly used  in  the  manufacture  of  ribbons, 
scarfs,  cheaper  grades  of  cassimeres 
and,  in  fact,  any  fabric  characterized 
by   its  narrowness. 

The  fast  centre  selvedge  consists  of 
crossing  one  thread  over  two  or  more 
threads,  similarly  to  the  douping  of 
threads   in   leno   weaving. 

See  diagram.  Fig.  1. 

The  douping  or  crossing  of  threads 
is  effected  by  an  attachment  on  the 
back  of  the  loom,  directly  in  the  cen- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


2C5 


tre  of  the  loom  if  but  two  pieces  are 
to  be  woven;  the  threads  that  are 
crossed  rest  stationary  in  the  attach- 
ment, while  the  crossing  threads  cross 
over  from  one  side  to  the  other  at  each 
pick  or  every  two  picks  as  may  be  de- 
sired. The  crossing  thread  and  the 
threads  over  which  it  crosses  must  be 
reeded  in  the  same  dent,  as  in  leno 
weaving. 

ANALYSIS. 

Width  of  warp  in  reed,  40  inches, 
double  width;  width  of  fabric  finished, 
19  inches,  single  width;  ends  per  inch 
finished,  106;  ends  per  inch  in  reed, 
100. 

Reed,  50x2;  ends  in  warp,  double 
width,  3,920;  outside  selvedges,  80; 
centre  selvedges,  80;  equals  total  of 
4,080  ends  in  warp. 

Take-up  during  weaving,  10  per 
cent;    warp,  1^4:   dram  organzine   silk. 


in  the  second  division  of  mills  as  given 
in  a  previous  article.  These  mills  are 
equipped  with  combers.  The  warp 
yarn  of  the  fabric  under  description 
is  silk  and  the  filling  yarn  is  cotton. 
For  this  class  of  fabric  two  kinds  of 
raw  stock  may  be  used,  either  a  medi- 
um staple  Sea  Island  cotton,  or  an 
Egyptian  cotton.  We  will  assume  that 
an  Egyptian  cotton  of  good  grade  and 
of  1%-inch  staple  is  used.  As  Egyptian 
cotton  is 

MORE  EASILY  WORKED 
than  American  cotton,  the  speeds  at 
which  the  different  machines  are  run  are 
higher,  as  will  be  noted  by  comparing 
this  article  with  some  of  the  other  ar- 
ticles in  which  an  American  cotton  of 
the  same  grade  and  length  of  staple 
has  been  described.  Egyptian  bales  of 
cotton  are  baled  better  and  compressed 
more   tightly     than   American     bales. 


Dotted    line    indicates   where   fabric    is    to   be    cut. 


Filling,      l-50s      combed      and      gassed 
cotton;  88  picks  per  inch. 

LOOM  REQUIRED. 

Plain  woven  silk  warp  fabrics  may 
be  woven  on  any  light  smooth-running 
loom.  The  essential  consideration  is 
the  heddles.  For  this  class  of  fabrics 
the  French  string  heddles  are  consid- 
ered the  best,  as  they  are  less  liable  to 
break  or  chafe  the  warp  during  the 
process  of  weaving  in  comparison  with 
the  ordinary  wire  heddle. 
FINISHING. 

The  goods  require  little  in  the  way 
of  finishing.  After  the  fabric  is  dyed 
It  is  slightly  stiffened  by  immersing  in 
a  light  solution  of  size.  The  stiffen- 
ing and  the  materials  used  in  the  con- 
struction of  the  fabric  produce  a  crisp 
and  rustling  effect. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 
Taffetine  is  composed  of  yarns  made 


the  average  weight  being  800  pounds, 
instead  of  500  pounds,  as  compared 
with  the  American  bales.  The  cotton 
should  be  allowed  to  stand  in  the  bins 
a  little  longer  than  the  American  bales, 
so  as  to  allow  the  cotton  to  expand. 
The  good  waste  from  the  machines  up 
to  the  slubber  is  put  into  the  mixing. 
The  cotton  is  then  passed  through 
either  two  or  three  processes  of 

PICKING 

and  an  opener.  Keep  the  opener  well 
filled  with  raw  stock  so  that  as  even 
a  feed  as  possible  may  be  obtained. 
The  speed  of  the  beater  at  the  breaker 
picker  is  1,500  revolutions  per  minute 
and  the  total  weight  of  the  lap  at  the 
front  is  40  pounds  or  a  20-ounce  lap. 
These  laps  are  doubled  4  into  1  at  the 
intermediate  picker.  The  speed  of  this 
beater  is  1.450  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  total  weight  of  the  lap  at  the  front 
is  0TV2  pounds  or  a  12-ounce  lap.  The 


266 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


doublings  at  the  finisher  picker  are  4 
into  1,  the  speed  of  the  picker  being 
1,450  revolutions  per  minute.  The  total 
weight  of  a  lap  at  the  front  of  the 
picker  is  35  pounds  or  a  12%-ounce 
lap.  These  laps  are  put  up  at  the  card. 
The  licker-in  speed  is  350  revolutions 
per  minute.  The  flats  make  one  com- 
plete revolution  every  30  minutes,  and 
the  cylinder  160  revolutions  per  min- 
ute. The  draft  of  the  card  for  this 
class  of  goods  is  135.  The  sliver  at  the 
front  weighs  45  grains  per  yard  and 
the  nroduction  for  a  week  of  60  hours 
is  550  pounds.    Use  the  same 

SETTINGS  AT  THE  CAUD 

as  have  been  previously  given  for  1%- 
inch-staple  American  cotton.  The  grind- 
ing and  stripping  times  are  also  the 
same.  The  sliver  is  next  put  through 
a  sliver  lap  machine,  when  it  is  dou- 
bled 14  into  1  for  an  8%-inch  lap.  The 
draft  of  this  machine  is  about  2.  The 
bottom  steel  rolls  are  spread  as  fol- 
lows for  this  staple  of  cotton:  Front 
to  middle,  1%  inches;  middle  to  back, 
1%  inches.  The  weight  of  a  yard  of 
lap  at  the  front  is  295  grains.  These 
laps  are  doubled  6  into  1  at  the 

RIBBON  LAP  MACHINE. 
The  bottom  steel  rolls  of  this  ma- 
chine are  spread  as  follows:  Front  to 
second,  1%  inches;  second  to  third, 
1%  inches;  third  to  back,  1%  inches. 
The  weight  of  a  yard  of  lap  at  the 
front  of  this  machine  is  27.'^  grains.  A 
size  of  the  lap  at  this  machine  should 
be  taken  once  a  day.  A  variation  of  2 
grains  either  side  of  the  standard  is 
allowed  before  changing  the  draft  gear. 
These  laps  are  put  up  at  the  comber 
and  doubled  according  to  the  number 
of  heads  that  the  comber  contains — 
generally  6  or  8.  If  a  six-head  comber 
is  used,  six  laps  would  be  put  up  at 
the  back.  The  percentage  of  waste 
taken  out  for  this  stock  is  18.  The  set- 
tings of  the  draw  box  i-olls  are:  Front 
to  middle,  1  7-16  inches;  middle  to 
back.  1%  inches.  The  speed  of  the 
comber  is  90  nips  per  minute.  The 
timings  and  settings  are  the  same  as 
given  in  a  previous  article.  The  per- 
centages of  the  combers  should  be  tak- 
en regularly,  the  general  method  being 
to  take  so  many  combers  a 
day.  Keep  needles  in  good  condi- 
tion and  straight  and  free  from 
•waste.  See  that  the  half  lap  neeciles 
are  in  good  condition,  and  that  the 
timings  and  settings  are  as  they 
should  be.  About  two  combers  a  week 
should  be  scoured  by  a  comber  man 
and  his  helper.  The  weight  of  a  yard 
of  sliver  at  the  coiler  of  this  machine 


is   40  grains.     This   sliver  is  next  put 
through  two  processes  ol 

DRAWING  FRAMES, 
the  doubling  being  either  6  ends  up  at 
both  processes  or,  as  is  often  done,  8 
ends  up  at  the  breaker  and  6  ends  at 
the  finisher.  The  weight  per  yard  of 
the  sliver  at  the  finisher  drawing  is 
74  grains.  The  top  rolls  used 
may  be  either  metallic  or  leather.  The 
settings  of  the  rolls  are  as  follows: 
Front  to  second,  ll^  inches;  second  to 
third,  1%  inches  and  third  to  back,  1% 
inches.  This  setting  is  for  leather 
rolls.  If  metallic  rolls  are  used,  set  Vs 
of  an  inch  wider.  Size  at  the  drawing 
frame  four  times  a  day.  At  the  slub- 
ber the  sliver  is  drawn  into  .50  hank 
roving,  after  which  it  is  put  through 
three  processes  of  fly  frames,  the  hank 
roving  at  each  proress  being  as  fol- 
lows: First  intermediate,  1.25;  second 
intermediate,  3;  and  fine  frame,  10 
hank.  This  cotton  requires  1  tooth 
more  twist  than  American  cotton  for 
the  same  hank  roving.  Set  the  jack 
frame  bottom  steel  rolls  as  follows: 
PYont  to  middle,  1  7-16  inches  and  mid- 
dle to  back,  lYz  inches.  Size  10  hank 
roving  once  a  day.  "Watch  the  usual 
points  at  the  speeders  that  have  been 
already  pointed  out  in  previous  arti- 
cles, 

THE  FILLING 
is  either  mule  or  frame  spun,  general- 
ly mules  being  used  for  this  class  of 
goods.  If  frame  spun,  the  require- 
ments of  a  frame  are  as  follows: 
Gauge  of  frame, 2%  Inches;  diameter  of 
ring,  11,4  inches;  length  of  traverse, 
51/2  inches;  speed  of  spindles,  8,200 
revolutions  per  minute.  The  yarn  is 
then  run  over  or  through  a  gas  flame 
to  take  off  all  fuzz  and  give  it  a  lus- 
tre. 


Dyeing    Particulars. 

The  dyeing  of  goods  composed  of 
silk  and  cotton  is  generally  done  in 
open  vats  provided  with  a  winch,  in 
some  cases  also  on  a  jigger  if  the  ma- 
terial to  be  dyed  requires  it.  Colors 
which  dye  silk  and  cotton  are  used, 
dyeing  first  with  the  substantive  color, 
with  soap  and  phosphate  of  soda,  or 
common  salt  and  a  little  sal  soda.  Should 
the  silk  require  colors  to  be  made  a 
little  brighter,  acid  colors  are  used  in 
a  bath  of  soap  and  acetic  acid,  or  a 
basic  color  is  dyed  in  a  soap  bath  with 
acetic  acid,  the  color  dyeing  both  the 
cotton  and  silk  a  brighter  shade.  For 
pale  shades:  10  gallons  liquor;  5  ounces 
soap;  V2  ounce  sal  soda;  3  ounces  phos- 
phate soda.  For  heavy  shades:   10  gal- 


^';/^7<>^x^'"p 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


267 


Ions  liquor;  6  ounces  soap;  14  ounce 
sal  soda;  G  ounces  phosphate  soda;  10 
ounces  Glauber's  salt.  The  temperature 
of  the  dye  bath  is  generally  about  195 
degrees  F.  After  dyeing,  the  pieces 
must  be  well  rinsed,  and  raised  with 
acetic  acid,  in  cold  water:  10  gallons 
water;    IVo  pints  acetic  acid. 

BLACK. 

Eight  per  cent  union  black  S;  1  per 
cent  diamine  fast  yellow  A;  30  per  cent 
Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal  soda;  2  per 
cent  soap.   Top  with  alizarine  black  4 


SEA  GREEN. 

One-half  per  cent  diamine  black  H 
W;  4  ounces  diamine  fast  yellow  B; 
topped  with  new  methylene  blue  N; 
new   phosphine  G. 

For  10  gallons  dye  liquor:  6  ounces 
soap;  l^  ounce  sal  soda;  3  ounces 
phosphate  soda. 

NAVY  BLUE. 

Three  per  cent  diamine  dark  blue  B 
1  per  cent  diamine  brilliant  blue  G 
topped  with  new  methylene  blue  N  X 
metaphenylene  blue  B;   indigo  blue  N. 

PEARL. 

Two  ounces  diamine  gray  G;  1-16 
ounce  diamine  brown  M;  topped  with 
aniline  gray  B. 

SLATE. 

Ten  ounces  diamine  gray  G;  % 
ounce  diamine  brown  M;  topped  with 
cyanol  extra,  orange  extra. 

LIGHT  MAUVE. 

One  ounce  diamine  violet  N;  i/^ 
ounce  diamine  brilliant  blue  G;  topped 
with  methyl  violet  B  I. 

VIOLET. 

One  per  cent  diamine  violet  N;  Vz 
per  cent  diamine  brilliant  blue  G; 
topped  with  methyl  violet  B  I. 

PINK. 

Two  per  cent  diamine  rose  B  D; 
topped  with  rhodamine  G. 

RED. 
Three  per  cent  diamine  fast  red  F; 
topped  with  safranine  S  150;   acid  vi- 
olet 4  R  S. 

SKY  BLUE. 
Four  ounces  diamine  sky  blue  F  F; 
topped  with  cyanol  extra. 

LIGHT  BROWN. 
One  per  cent  diamine  brown  B;    V^ 


per  cent  diamine  yellow  B;  topped 
with  Bismarck  brown  F  F;  thioflavine 
T. 

MYRTLE  GREEN. 

Two  per  cent  diamine  black  H  W;  2 
per  cent  diamine  green  B;  1  per  cent 
diamine  fast  yellow  B;  topped  with 
brilliant  green;  new  methylene  blue 
N. 

SCARLET. 

Three  per  cent  diamine  fast  scarlet 
G  B;  V2  per  cent  diamine  orange  D  C; 
topped  with  safranine  G  G  S;  tannine 
orange  R. 

CREAM. 

One-quarter  ounce  diamine  gold;  % 
ounce  diamine  orange  B;  1-16  ounce  di- 
amine fast  j^ellow  B. 

STEEL. 

One-eighth  ounce  diamine  gray  G; 
topped  with  cyanol  extra;  aniline  gray 
B. 


VICTORIA  LAWN, 


Victoria  lawn  is  a  fabric  resembling 
to  a  great  extent  a  fabric  previously 
explained,  linon.  It  is  usually  made 
with  slightly  heavier  yarn  in  the  warp 
and  contains  a  greater  n amber  of  ends 
and  picks  per  inch.  It  is  very  firmly 
woven. 

It  is  especially  used  for  aprons  and 
ladies'  heavy  undergarments,  having 
excellent  wearing  and  washing  quali- 
ties. 

The  usual  widths  are  from  32  inches 
to  36  inches. 

They  are  made  in  different  grades. 
Retail  prices  for  some  are  12  and  15 
cents  for  the  32-inch  width,  23  cents, 
27  cents,  32  cents  and  38  cents  for  the 
36-inch   width. 

A  typical  fabric,  weighing  about  8% 
square  yards  per  pound,  is  constructed 
as  follows:  124  ends  per  inch,  120  picks 
per  inch,  3G  inches  wide,  finished. 
CALCULATIONS. 

Thirteen  square  inches  of  the  cloth 
under  consideration  weigh  8  grains. 
To  find  the  number  of  yards  per 
pound: 


13   (sq.    In.)   X  7,000  (grs.   per  lb.) 
8   (grs.)    X   3f   (cloth   width)    x   36   (Inches  per  yard) 


=  8.7T7  yards  per   pound. 


268 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


To    find    the     average     number     or      firmly  made,  one  beam,  is  the  best  to 
count  of  jarn  in  the  cloth:  use.       Dobby  looms,  although  capable 


124  (ends  per  inch)  +  120  (picks  per  inch)  =  244. 


244  X  8.777  (yds.   per  lb.)  X  86  In. 


764  (10%  aUowed  for  contraction  and  size  764  used  Instead  of  840) 


=  lOO  average  number. 


ANOTHER  METHOD 
of  finding  the  average  number,  without 
taking  into  consideration  the  number 
of  yards  per  pound,  is  as  follows: 

Multiply  the  sum  of  the  slay  and 
pick  by  the  number  of  square  inches 
weighed  and  by  .254  and  divide  by  the 
weight  in  grains. 

This  is  a  simpler  method,  as  will  be 
seen  by  comparing  the  number  of  fig- 
ures that  have  to  be  used  in  the  two 
methods: 


244  X  13  X  .254 


=   100  average   number. 


.254  in  the  above  example  is  a  con- 
stant obtained  by  dividing  7,000 
(grains)  by  36  (inches)  and  by  764 
(yards  per  hank).  The  latter  is  used 
instead  of  S40,  allowing  10  per  cent. 

The  counts  of  the  yarns  are:  warp, 
85s;  filling,  130s. 

The  weight  of  the  warp  yarns  may 
be  obtained  as  follows:  124  (ends  per 
inch)  times  36  inches  (finished  width) 
equals  4464.  4464  plus  40  for  selvedges 
equals  4504,  total  number  of  ends  in 
warp. 


of  weaving  goods  of  this  class,  are  not 
usually  run  at  as  high  a  rate  of  speed 
as  cam  looms. 

FINISHING. 

The  finishing  process  includes  singe- 
ing, washing,  bleaching,  very  light 
starching,  drying  and  pressing,  or  cal- 
endering. 

STARCHING. 

After  a  bleaching  process,  the  pieces 
are  given  a  very  good  starching  with. 
4  ounces  of  German  white  dextrine  to 
a  gallon  of  water,  boiled  for  one  hour, 
and  starched  through  a  mangle,  and 
dried  over  a  tenter  frame,  care  being 
taken  to  have  the  goods  perfectly 
straight. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  counts  of  yarn  of  which  Victo- 
ria lawn  is  composed  are  made  in  the 
second  and  third  divisions  of  mills  as 
given  in  a  previous  article.  The  counts 
of  yarn  of  which  the  sample  under  de- 
scription is  made  are  S5s  warp  and 
130s    filling.      Both    warp    and    filling 


4504  X  105   (length  of  warp) 
85  (counts  of  warp)  x  840 


=  6.623  lbs.  of  warp  In  100  yards  of  cloth. 


6.623  plus  5  per  cent  for  size  equals 
6.954  pounds,  weight  of  warp  and  size. 

To  find  weight  of  filling:  120  (picks 
per  inch)  times  40  inches  (width  in 
reed)  equals  4,800  yards  of  filling  in 
one  yard  of  cloth. 


yarns  are  combed.  The  cotton  used 
for  the  filling  yarn  is  1%-inch  staple 
Sea  Island  stock  and  that  used  for  the 
filling  is  either  a  long-staple  peeler 
or  a  1%-inch  Sea  Island.  We  will  as- 
sume that  both  3'arns  are  made  from 


4,800   X    100   (cloth    length) 
130  (filling  counts)  x  840 


=  4.392  lbs.   of  fllUng  In  100  yards  of  cloth. 


6.954  lbs.  warp  and   size. 
4.392  lbs.  filling. 

11.346  lbs.,  weight  of  100  yard  piece. 

100  divided  by  11.346  =  8.8  yards  per  pound. 

The  fabric  under  consideration,  if 
woven  on  a  dobby  loom,  could  be 
woven  on  about  8  harnesses,  straight 
draw,  the  ends  in  the  body  of  the 
cloth  being  reeded  4  in  a  dent.  The 
selvedge  ends  work  2  as  1,  2  doubles 
in  1  dent.  The  weave  is  plain  through- 
out. A  12-harness  straight  draw,  the 
ends  reeded  3  in  a  dent,  could  be  sub- 
stituted. 

LOOM     REQUIRED. 
The  remarks     made     in     connection 
with  the  preceding  article,  linon,  also 
apply  here.    A   single  box   cam   loom. 


Sea  Island  stock.  The  cotton  would 
first  be  opened,  as  has  been  previous- 
ly explained,  and  put  through  an  open- 
er, and  either  one  or  two  processes  of 
picking,  generally  two  processes  being 
used;  but  it  is  the  opinion  of  a  great 
many  carders  that 

ONE    PROCESS   IS   BETTER 

because  of  the  fact  that  the  more  pick- 
ing this  cotton  is  given,  the  more  nepS 
are  liable  to  be  put  in.  The  mixing 
is  generally  done  by  hand  and  not  by 
machine,  for  the  same  reason.  The 
cotton  should  be  passed  through  the 
opener  in  the  usual  manner  and 
should  pass  on  to  the  lattice  apron  of 
the  breaker  picker,  if  two  processes 
are     used,     and     from     here     passed 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


2(i!) 


through  the  feed  rolls  and  to  the  ac- 
tion of  the  beater.  This  beater  is  gen- 
erally of  the  two-bladed,  or  armed, 
type,  and  for  this  cotton  there  should 
only  be  made  sufficient  revolutions 
per  minute  to  take  out  the  dirt.  The 
speed  of  the  beater  is  1,150  revolu- 
tions per  minute,  if  two  processes  of 
picking  are  used.  The  weight  of  the 
lap  at  the  front  of  this  picker  is  32 
pounds,  or  a  10-ounce  lap.  These  laps 
are  put  up  and  doubled  4  into  1  at  the 
finisher  picker,  the  speed  of  the  beat- 
er being  950  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  beats  per  minute  for  this  stock 
are  29.  The  total  weight  of  the  lap 
at  the  front  is  2S  pounds  or  a  9%- 
ounce  lap  to  the  yard  for  the  1%-inch 
stock  and  a  lO^^-ounce  lap  for  the  1%- 
inch  stock.  A  variation  of  ^  pound  is 
allowed  either  side  of  standard  for 
1%-inch  stock  and  Yz  pound  for  1%- 
inch  stock.  It  is  understood  that 
every  lap  must  be  weighed.  The  lap 
is  next  put  up 

AT  THE  CARD 
and  the  draft  for  the  longer  staple 
should  not  be  less  than  150  and  for 
the  shorter  staple  135.  The  flats 
should  make  one  revolution  every  35 
minutes  and  the  speed  of  the  beater 
should  be  reduced  to  275  revolutions 
per  minute  for  the  same  reason  as 
given  for  the  reduction  of  the  speed  of 
the  beater  of  the  picker.  The  counts 
of  the  wire  used  for  the  fillet  should  be 
35s  for  cylinder  and  37s  for  doffer  and 
top  flats.  Special  care  should  be  given 
to  the  setting  and  grinding  of  the  fil- 
let for  these  cards,  the  wire  being 
always  kept  sharp.  Use  the  same  set' 
tings  as  given  in  a  previous  article 
for  this  same  grade  of  stock.     The 

WEIGHT  OF  THE  SLIVER 
should  be  about  35  grains  per  yard  for 
the  1%-inch  stock  and  32  for  the  1%- 
inch  stock.  The  production  is  250 
pounds  per  week  of  60  hours  for  1%- 
inch  stock  and  275  to  325  pounds  for 
1%-inch  stock.  Both  card  slivers  are 
taken  to  the  sliver  lap  machines  and 
doubled  14  into  1  for  an  8%-inch  lap. 
The  weight  of  a  yard  of  sliver  lap  at 
this  machine  is  220  grains.  These 
laps  are  doubled  6  into  1  at  the  ribbon 
lap  machine,  the  weight  of  the  lap  be- 
ing 210  grains  per  yard  for  both 
stocks.  The  laps  of  the  ribbon  lap  and 
sliver  lap  machines  should  be  weighed 
once  a  day  and  the  weights  changed 
at  the  ribbon  lap  machine  to  keep  the 
laps  at  standard  weight.  The  laps  are 
next  put  up 

AT  THE   COMBER 
and  doubled  either  6     or     8     into     1, 


according  to  the  number  of  heads  that 
the  comber  contains.  The  setting  and 
timing  of  the  comber  for  this  stock 
have  been  previously  given.  The 
draw  box  rolls  should  be  set  from  the 
1%-inch  stock  as  follows:  Front  to 
middle,  1  13-16  inches,  middle  to  back, 
1%  inches.  It  sometimes  happens  that 
the  draw  box  will  not  allow  the  rolls 
to  be  spread  this  distance  and  about 
the  only  method  to  overcome  this  de- 
fect in  this  machine,  as  well  as  in 
other  machines  where  a  like  diffi- 
culty occurs,  is  to  reduce  the  draft  be- 
tween the  middle  and  back  rolls  so 
that  the  speed  of  the  rolls  will  be 
equal,  and  set  rolls  just  to  staple, 
which  will  avoid  breaking  the  cotton; 
but  this  has  the  fault  of  bringing  all 
the  draft  between  the  middle  and  front 
rolls.  The  weight  of  the  sliver  at  the 
comber  for  this  stock  is  35  grains  per 
yard  for  both  stocks.  The  percentage 
of  waste  taken  out  for  the  1%-inch 
staple  is  25  per  cent  and  for  the  1%- 
staple  is  22  per  cent.  This  sliver  is 
next  put  through  two  processes  of 

DRAWING. 
These  drawings  should  be  equipped 
with  leather  top  rolls  and  especial 
care  should  be  given  to  the  leather  top 
rolls  of  the  sliver  lap,  ribbon  lap, 
comber  and  drawing  frame  machines. 
The  leather  detaching  rolls  of  the 
comber  require  a  somewhat  rougher 
varnished  roll  than  the  others,  the 
leather  rolls  used  for  the  other  ma- 
chines having  a  smooth,  glossy  finish. 
The  varnish  used  for  all  the  rolls 
should  be  that  which  will  prevent  all 
licking.  The  weight  of  the  sliver  at 
the  finisher  drawing  snould  be  60 
grains  per  yard  for  both  stocks,  the 
doublings  at  each  process  being  6  into 
1.  At  the  slubber  this  is  made  into  .SO 
hank  roving.  The  front  top  rolls 
should  be  of  a  larger  diameter  than 
those  used  for  shorter  staples  and 
should  be  varnished  with  a  varnish 
which  will  give  them  a  smooth,  glossy 
finish.  The  settings  should  be  1% 
inches  from  front  to  middle  and  2  inch- 
es from  middle  to  back.  The  slubber 
roving  is  then  put  through  three  proc- 
esses of  fly  frames  and  made  into  18 
hank  roving  for  1%-inch  stock,  the 
hank  roving  at  each  process  being  as 
follows:  1st  intermediate,  2.25  hank; 
2d,  5  hank:  and  fine  IS  hank.  Some- 
times the  front  rolls  of  the  1st  inter- 
mediate fly  frame  are  varnished.  This 
yarn  is  next  put  through 

THE  SPINNING  FRAME 
and  made  into  85s  on  a  frame  having 
a    5-inch    traverse,    1%-inch    diameter 


270 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


ring  and  a  spindle  speed  of  9,400  rev- 
olutions per  minute.  From  here  it  is 
spooled  and  warped  and  put  through 
a  slasher.  The  roving  for  the  filling 
yarn  is  put  through  three  processes  of 
fly  frames,  the  hank  •  roving  at  each 
process  being  as  follows:  1st,  2.25 
hank,  second  7.75  hank  and  fine  24 
hank.  This  is  mule  spun  into  130s 
and  from  here  is  taken  to  the  condi- 
tioning room. 


BIAZ,   OR  LINEN   FINISH 
SUITING. 


Biaz  is  a  medium-grade  cotton  fab- 
ric resembling  linen  in  appearance. 
This  effect  is  usually  obtained  on  or- 
dinary cotton  yarns  in  the  finishing 
process,  or  in  somewhat  easier  form, 
by  using  mercerized  yarns  or  mercer- 
izing the  fabric  in  the  piece.  They  are 
usually  shown  white. 

The  term  biaz  is  an  uncommon  one 
in  this  country.    It  is  an    Asiatic    na- 
tive name,  pronounced  be'az. 
ORIGIN. 

The  goods  are  said  to  have  originated 
at  Biaz,  a  place  in  the  central  part  of 
Asia,  and  to  be  still  manufactured 
there  for  home  use  and  for  export  to 
Russia.  The  goods  bearing  this  name 
are  better  known  in  America  as  "linen 
finish  suitings,"  and  are  principally 
used  for  ladies'  summer  suitings.  The 
eastern  goods  are  more  heavily  filled 
with  foreign  matter  than  ours  and  are 
used  for  various  purposes, 
ANALYSIS. 

The  analysis  of  a  typical  biaz  fabric 
shows  the  following  data:  Ends  per 
inch,  56;  picks  per  inch,  44;  finished 
width,  32.5  inches;  weight.  4.57  yards 
per  pound;  warp,  19s;  filling,  20s;  the 
ends  were  reeded  2  in  each  dent.  The 
weight  would  probably  be  considered 
4%  yards  per  pound. 

CALCULATIONS. 

To  find  number  of  yards  per  pound. 


The  sizes  of  the  yarns  are  about  equal. 
For  practical  purposes  a  warp  of  198 
and  a  filling  of  20s  would  answer. 

LOOM  REQUIRED. 
This  fabric  may  be  made  on  any  of 
the  light,  fast  running  cam  looms.  On 
account  of  the  small  number  of  ends 
per  inch  a  set  of  two-twine  harnesses 
would  be  preferable.  One  warp  and 
one  shuttle  only  are  required. 

FINISHING. 

The  finishing  of  biaz  is  really  the 
principal  characteristic  which  distin- 
guishes it  from  many  other  plain  wov- 
en cloths.  It  has  a  more  glossy  effect 
than  Indian  linen,  one  finishing  process 
being  somewhat  similar  to  that  of  the 
latter  fabric,  with  the  beetling  process 
added. 

A  finish  suitable  for  this  cloth  is  as 
follows:  Bleach,  mangle  and  dry;  fill 
with  a  light  starch  on  the  starch  man- 
gle; stretch  and  dry.  After  drying  and 
cooling,  it  is  run  through  the  damp- 
ing machine;  then  through  the  glazed 
calender  on  both  sides,  under  very 
heavy  pressure.  The  cloth  is  then 
dampened,beetled,  changed  and  turned, 
and  again  beetled  and  made  up  as  re- 
quired. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

For  biaz  the  same  instructions 
may  be  followed  as  were  given  in  the 
article  on  indigo  prints,  with  the  fol- 
lowing exceptions: 

The  slubber  roving  is  .50  hank  and 
this  is  put  through  two  processes  of 
fly  frames.  At  the  first  intermediate 
the  roving  is  made  into  1.20  hank  and 
at  the  second  into  3.50  hank.  This  is 
then  passed  directly  to  the  spinning 
room  and  spun  into  19s  warp  yarn  on 
a  frame  having  a  2%-inch  gauge,  two- 
inch  diameter  ring,  7-inch  traverse; 
20.71  twist  per  inch  and  a  spindle 
speed  of  9,400  revolutions  per  minute. 
This  is  then  spooled  and  warped,  after 
which  several  warps  areput  up  and  run 
through  the  slasher  and  run  upon  a 
beam   having  the  required   number  of 


A  small  piece  4  In.  z  3  In.   weighs  15.7  gra.       4x3  =  12  sq.   inches. 
12  (sq.   in.)   x  7,000   (grains) 


15.7   (grains)    x  32.5   (width)   x  36   (Inches  per  yard) 


=  4.57  yards  per  pound. 


To   find   average   counts   of   yarn   in      ends  wanted  for  weaving.      The  filling 
the  cloth:  yarn  is  spun  into  20s  on  a  frame  hav- 


56  ends  +  44  picks  =  100. 

100  X  32.5  (width)  x  4.57   (yds.  per  lb.) 


=  19.4  average  count. 


100  X  12  <sq.   in.)  x  .254  (constant) 


15  I   (grains) 


=   19.4  average   counts. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


271 


ing  a  2%-inch  gauge,  1%-inch  diame- 
ter ring,  6V2-iiich  traverse,  14.53  twist 
per  inch,  and  a  spindle  speed  of  7,300 
revolutions  per  minute,  after  which 
the  yarn  is  conditioned. 


Dyeing   Particulars. 
OLIVE. 

Five  per  cent  pyrol  olive  G;  5  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;  2  per  cent  soda 
ash;  20  per  cent  salt. 

BRONZE. 
Five  per  cent  pyrol  bronze  G;   5  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;   2  per  cent  soda 
ash;  20  per  cent  salt. 

BLACK. 
Ten  per  cent  thiogene  black  M  cone; 
10  per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  2  per  cent 
soda  ash;  25  per  cent  salt. 
SLATE. 
One  per  cent  thion  black  T  B  C;   1 
per  cent  sulphide  sodium;    1  per  cent 
soda  ash;   10  per  cent  salt. 
ECRU. 
Three-quarters  per  cent  thion  brown 
G;   1  per  cent  sulphide  sodium;   1  per 
cent  soda  ash;   10  per  cent  salt. 
RED. 
Six  per  cent  diamine  fast  red  B  B;  2 
per  cent  sal   soda;    25   per  cent  Glau- 
ber's. 

BROWN. 
Five  per  cent  immedial  brown  B;   5 
per  cent  immedial  cutch  O;  10  per  cent 
sulphide  sodium;  3  per  cent  soda  ash; 
30  per  cent  salt. 

SKY  BLUE. 
One  and  one-half  per  cent  thion  blue 
B  cone;  IVz  per  cent  sulphide  sodium; 
1  per  cent  soda  ash;   20  per  cent  salt. 
Develop  with  peroxide  of  hydrogen. 
NAVY   BLUE. 
Eight  per  cent  thion  navy  blue  R; 
8  per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  2  per  cent 
soda   ash;    20   per   cent   salt.    Develop 
with  peroxide  of  sodium. 


COBDRG  SUITING, 


Coburg,  of  which  there  are  several 
varieties,  may  be  defined  as  a  thin 
dress  fabric  made  from  cotton  and 
worsted  or  cotton  and  silk. 

Coburg  derives  its  name  from  the 
city  of  Coburg,  in  Germany,  where  it 
was  first  manufactured.  The  all-cot- 
ton fabric  known  as  coburg  is  an  inex- 
pensive dress  fabric  imitating  the  gen- 


uine fabric  principally  in  the  charac- 
ter of  the  weave  only. 
The   weave   for   these  fabrics   is   an 

UNEVEN-SIDED  TWILL, 
giving  the  face  of  the  goods  a  very 
pronounced  twill  effect.  'I  he  accentua- 
tion of  the  twill  is  in  part  due  to  the 
number  of  ends  per  inch  used  in  the 
construction  of  the  goods.  The  ends 
per  inch  in  the  sample  under  consider- 
ation equal  twice  the  number  of  picks 
per  inch. 

This  is  somewhat  in  excess  of  the 
number  of  ends  required  to  make  per- 
fect cloth.  A  pei'fect  cloth  is  under- 
stood to  mean  a  cloth  in  which  the 
warp  and  filling  yarns  are  equal  in 
diameter,  and  the  space  between  the 
threads  is  equal  to  the  diameter  of  the 
yarn.  This  principle  of  construction 
applies  particularly  to  plain  woven 
cotton  fabrics.more  so  than  to  any  oth- 
er class  of  fabrics.  In  fabrics  of  a  spe- 
cial construction,  such  as  coburg,  the 
ends  per  inch  are  more  or  less  crowded, 
with  the  consequent  result  of  a  pro- 
nounced twill  effect  on  the  face  of  the 


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DHaDBBDM 

■aaaaaaDB 
aanaaaaaa 
Daanaaoaa 
BDaanaaaa 
BaDBBDaaa 

DBBDaBDM 

Fig.  1. 


□nnnanDDB 
nnDDDnDBD 
□naanDBDn 
DnDDDBnaa 

DDDDBGDna 

DDDBaDaaa 

aDBDnDDDD 
nBQDGDDDa 
BDnaDDDDQ 

Fig.  2. 

fabric,  which  characterizes  the  goods. 
Cotton  coburgs  are  commonly  made 

with  a  three-harness  twill  weave     — 

The  ends  per  inch  required  in  order  to 
produce  a  perfect  cloth,  according  to 
the  above  principle  of  constructing  a 
perfect  fabric,  with  the  given  counts 
of  yarn,  would  be  as  follows: 

Weave  repeats  on  three  ends  with 
two  intersections.  Three  ends  plus  two 
intersections  equals  5;  as  5  :  3  ::  120, 
the  number  of  ends  that  will  lie  side  by 
side  of  l-20s  cotton  in  one  inch. 

Formula:   5  :   3  : :   120  :  x  equals  72. 

The  calculation  shows  that  72  ends 
and  72  picks  of  l-20s  would  give  a  per- 
fect cloth. 

In  some  fabrics  an  analysis  will 
show  120  ends  and  54  picks  in  the  fin- 
ished fabric.  The  inequality  of  ends 
and  picks  per  inch  charapterizes  cloths 
of  special  construction,  as  the  fabric 
in  question.  Cotton  coburgs  are  prin- 
cipally used  for  dress  goods,  made  up 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


into  wrappers,  shirtwaists,  shirtwaist 
suits,  etc.  The  goods  are  woven  in  the 
gray,  then  dyed  and  in  most  cases 
printed  or  bleached  and  then  printed. 
The  goods,  however,  have  no  particu- 
lar coloring  scheme  or  style  of  print- 
ed patterns.  Some  are  finished  in 
pure  white  or  bleached  without  any 
printed  pattern.  Again  they  may  be 
dyed      any      color        desired.  In 

most  cases  the  goods  are  dyed  and 
printed.  The  characters  of  patterns 
that  are  most  popular  in  this  class  of 
goods  are  small  geonjetrical  figures  or 
small  conventionalized  floral  figures  in 
but  one  or,  at  the  most,  two  colors. 


ANALYSIS. 
Width  in  reed,  37%     inches; 


width, 


i  0  i  o  i  0 


:   0  :   0   :  0  ; 

•  •             ••             •  • 

**t                             ••!                            •*• 
•.     »                              •     •                               »     • 
»•                                  »•                                   •• 

U  i  0  i  0  i 

Fig.   3. 

finished,  36  inches.  Reed,  1,400x3; 
number  of  ends  in  warp,  4,374;  26 
ends  selvedge;  equals  4,400  number  of 
ends. 

Number  of  ends,  per  inch,  finished, 
120;  number  of  picks  per  inch,  finish- 
ed, 54;  take-up  in  weaving,  about  10 
per  cent;  warp  yarn,  l-20s  cotton;  fill- 
ing yarn,  l-26s  cotton. 

Fig.  1.  Three  repeats  of  weave; 
twill  running  to  the  left. 

Fig.  2.     Drawing-in  draft. 

The  warp  may  be  drawn  in  on  6 
harnesses;  9  harnesses  would  avoid 
crowding  of  the  harnesses  and  give  bet- 
ter results  in  weaving. 

Fig.  3.  A  sample  of  printed  pattern. 
LOOM    REQUIRED. 

Common  cotton  fabrics  as  a  rule  may 
be  woven  on  almost  any  light  running 
high  speed  loom.    Twill     weaves,     in 


which  more  than  four  harnesses  are 
required,  are  usually  woven  on  dobby 
looms.  A  Northrop  dobby  loom  would 
answer  for  the  class  of  goods  analyzed. 
Broken  or  miss  picks  in  these  fabrics 
are  hardly  noticeable,  the  filling  show- 
ing very  little  of  itself  on  the  face  of 
the  fabric. 

FINISHING. 
The  goods  are  first  all  boiled  off, 
then  dyed  or  bleached,  as  may  be  re- 
quired, after  which  they  are  slightly 
stiffened  by  running  through  a  light 
solution  of  size,  then  printed,  after 
which  they  are  made  up  into  laps  and 
then  shipped. 

Carding  and  Spinning   Particulars. 

Under  most  conditions  the  same  in- 
structions given  for  indigo  prints 
may  be  followed.  The  main  point 
of  difference  is  that  of  the  hank 
rovings  at  the  slubber  and  fly  frames 
or  speeders.  At  the  slubber  the  hank 
roving  is  .40  and  at  the  first 
intermediate  1.50,  while  at  the 
second  intermediate  it  is  made  into 
5.25  hank  roving.  This  roving  is  then 
ring  spun  into  26s  for  both  the  warp 
and  filling  yarns.  For  the  warp  yarn 
use  a  frame  having  a  6i^-inch  traverse; 
134-inch  diameter  ring;  2%-inch  gauge 
of  spindle  and  a  spindle  speed  of  9,700 
revolutions  per  minute. 

THIS  YARN 
is  then  run  on  a  spooler,  after  which 
the  spools  are  put  up  and  run  on  to 
a  beam.  Several  beams  are  then  put 
up  at  the  slasher,  being  run  through 
this  machine  to  be  sized  and  run  on  to 
a  beam  at  the  head  end.  The  filling 
frame  has  a  2%-inch  gauge;  1%-inch 
diameter  ring;  6-inch  traverse;  17.84 
twist  per  inch,  and  a  spindle  speed  of 
S.OOO  revolutions  per  minute.  After  be- 
ing made,  the  yarn  should  be  condi- 
tioned by  putting  it  into  a  steam  chest 
or  some  similar  compartment,although 
some  mills  merely  immerse  the  full 
boxes  of  yarn  into  a  tank  of  water  and 
take  them  out  immediately. 


Dyeing    Particulars. 

For  cotton  warp  coburgs: 

BLACK. 
Five  per  cent  union  black  S;  30  per 
cent  Glauber's  salt. 

WINE. 
Three  and  one-half  per  cent  diamine 
Bordeaux  B;     30  per    cent     Glauber's 
salt. 

LIGHT  BLUE. 
One  and  one-half  per    cent    diamine 
sky  blue  F  F;  i/^  per  cent  diamine  steel 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


273 


blue  L;    S  ounces  thiocarmine  R  pow- 
der;  30  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 
NAVY  BLUE. 
Two  per  cent  diamine  black  B  H;   % 
per  cent  naphthol  blue  black;    14  per 
cent  formyl  violet  S  4  B;    y^,  per  cent 
union  black  S;  30  per  cent  Glauber's. 
BROWN. 
One  per  cent   diamine  orange  B;    1 
per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow  B;  i/^  per 
cent  union  black  S;  1  per  cent  diamine 
brown  M;  y^  per  cent  Indian  yellow  G; 
35  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 
GREEN. 
Three  per  cent  diamine  green  G;    1 
per   cent   diamine   black   H   W;    1  per 
cent  diamine  fast  yellow  B;  30  per  cent 
Glauber's. 

SCARLET. 
Four  per  cent  diamine  scarlet  B;   1 
per  cent  fast  scarlet  B;   30     per    cent 
Glauber's  salt. 

SLATE. 
Six  ounces  union    black;     2    ounces 
naphthol  blue  black;    1  ounce  diamine 
Bordeaux  B;   2  ounces  diamine  orange 
B;  30  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 


For  coburgs,   all  wool: 
For      100      pounds      piece      goods: 
Dye  with  15  per  cent  Glauber's  salt,  4 
per  cent  sulphuric  acid,  for  light  and 
medium  shades;  for  dark  shades  add  a 
little  more  if  required. 
SLATE. 
Four    and    one-half    ounces    cyanole 
green  B;   %  ounce  acid  yellow  A  T;  1 
ounce  azo  orseille  B  B. 
RED. 
Five  per  cent  naphthol  red  P    B;     1 
per  cent  orange  extra. 
OLIVE. 
Two  per  cent  cyanole  green  6  G;  V-fz 
per  cent  acid  yellow  A  T. 

PEACOCK    BLUE. 
Two  per  cent  indigo  blue  S  G  N;   1 
per  cent  cyanole  extra. 
BROWN. 
Two  and  one-half  per  cent  acid  yel- 
low A  T;  2  per  cent  lanafuchsine  S  G; 
%  per  cent  cyanole  green  6  G. 
SKY  BLUE.    * 
One  ounce  cyanole  F  F  pat.;  y^  ounce 
acid  violet  6  B  S. 

MAUVE. 
One  per  cent  azo  wool  violet  7  R;  1 
ounce  cyanole  extra  pat. 
NAVY   BLUE. 
Three  per  cent  azo  navy' blue  3  B;  l^/i 
per  cent  azo  navy  blue  B. 
BLACK. 
Five  per  cent  azo  merino  black  B  E. 


KID  FINISH  CAMBRIC. 

Kid  finish  cambric  is  a  name  given 
to  a  soft-finished  plain  cloth  which  is 
fairly  lustrous  on  both  sides,  but  more 
so  on  the  face  than  on  the  back.  It  is 
used  exclusively  for  dress  linings.  It 
varies  in  width  from  about  24  to  27 
inches,  and  is  shown  in  black  and  sta- 
ple shades. 

The  fabric  derives  its  name  from  Its 
appearance  after  being  subjected  to 
the  finishing  process. 

The  cloth  itself  before  finishing 
does  not  differ  from  many  other  plain 
cloths  now  shown  on  the  market.  It 
is  fairly  well  filled  with  foreign  sub- 
stances; the  retail  price  at  which  it  is 
sold,  about  5c.  per  yard  for  goods  Ji4 
inches  wide,  and  the  firm  feel  neces- 
sary, preclude  the  possibility  of  put- 
ting very  much  cotton  into  it. 

The  analysis  of  a  sample  under  con- 
sideration shows  the  following:  Fin- 
ished width,  251/^  inches;  ends  per 
inch,  64;  picks  per  inch,  54;  warp 
yarn,  34s;  filling  yarn,  38s;  weight, 
8  1-3  yards  per  pound. 

CALCULATIONS. 
A  sample  4  inches  x  3  inches  in  size 
weighs   11  grains,   indicating  a  fabric 
weighing    approximately    8    1-3    yards 
per  pound. 


2,333.33 


11  grs.  X  25.5  in. 


=   8.31   yards  per  pound. 


Allowing  20  per  cent  for  size  and 
contraction,  the  average  counts  of 
yarns  ii§ed  jnay  be  found  as  follows: 


118  X  25.5  X  8.31  x  1.20 


Pd^ 


=   35.6   average  number. 


In  the  above  calculation  118  repre- 
sents the  sum  of  the  sley  and  pick,  25.- 
5  the  width  of  the  cloth,  and  8.31  the 
number  of  yards  per  pound. 

Assuming  the  counts  of  the  warp 
yarns  to  be  34s,  the  counts  of  filling 
required  to  make  the  given  weight  of 
cloth  may  be  found  as  follows: 


^ 


118  (sum  of  sley  and  pick) 

35.6  (average  counts) 

64  (sley) 


54  (pick) 


34  (warp  counts) 

3.31  —  1.88  =  1.43. 


?' 


1.43 


=   37.78  counts  of  filling  required. 


38s  filling  would  be  used. 

LOOM  REQUIRED. 
As  these  goods  are  not  noticed  very 


274 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


closely  after  being  made  into  gar- 
ments, being  hidden  when  in  use,  lit- 
tle attention  is  paid  to  picking  out  or- 
dinary misweaves  in  the  loom.  Those 
that  are  made  are  covered  to  a  more 
or  less  extent  in  the  finishing  process. 
The  chief  consideration,  therefore, 
is  a  large  production,  which  can  best 
be  obtained  from  light  running  cam 
looms.  Ordinary  or  automatic  looms 
may  be  employed,  one  warp  beam  and 
one  shuttle  only  being  required.  The 
cloth  is  reeded  one  end  per  heddle 
and  two  ends  per  dent. 

FINISfflNG. 
This  process  is  really  the  principal 
one  in  making  these  goods,  giving 
them,  as  it  does,  the  characteristic 
name.  It  gives  to  the  cloth  a  some- 
what leathery  feel,  not  too  harsh  or 
stiff,  while  yet  adding  a  fair  amount 
of  foreign  matter. 

After  bleaching,  dyeing  and  man- 
gling, the  cloth  is  dried  on  the  drying 
machine  and  allowed  to  cool.  It  is 
then  conditioned  on  the  damping  ma- 
chine and  allowed  to  lie  for  about  two 
hours,  after  which  it  is  hot  swiss  cal- 
endered on  a  five-bowl  compound  lever 
calender,  using  light  pressure.  It  is 
afterwards  filled  on  an  ordinary  two- 
bowl  compound  lever  starch  mangle 
with  a  mixture  somewhat  as  follows: 

Dextrin    200  pounds 

Potato  starch  or  farina 20  pounds 

Cornstarch    or    maize 20  pounds 

Oleine     oil 1 2%  gaUons 

Carbolic   acid %  Pi°t 

Water,  sufficient  to  make  120  gallons  'when 
boiled.    Boil   for  15   minutes. 

After  being  filled,  the  cloth  is  dried 
on  the  drying  machine  and  allowed  to 
cool,  then  conditioned  on  the  damping 
machine  and  allowed  to  lie  at  least 
two  hours.  It  is  then  hot  swiss  cal- 
endered on  a  three-bowl  dead  set  cal- 
ender, using  light  pressure,  after 
which  it  is  ready  for  making  up. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  yarns  for  the  grade  of  goods 
under  description  are  made  in  mills 
having  the  equipment  of  those  of  the 
second  division.  The  yarns  for  this 
fabric  do  not  have  to  be  combed.  They 
are  made  from  cotton  of  a  middling 
grade  of  1  1-16  to  1  3-16  inch  staple. 
This  cotton  is  mixed  as  has  been  pre- 
viously described.  The  cotton  should 
be  allowed  to  stand  as  long  as  possi- 
ble after  opening  before  being  worked. 
The  cotton  is  passed  through  an  open- 
er and  three  processes  of  pickers.  Use 
the  usual  precaution  in  feeding  the 
opener,  being  sure  to  keep  the  pin  roll- 
er clear  of     cotton,  especially  sliver 


waste,  which  is  apt  to  wind  around 
this  roll  on  certain  makes  of  openers. 
After  passing  through  the  opener  the 
cotton  is  fed  to  the  breaker  picker. 
The  beaters  of  all  the  pickers  are  of 
the  two-bladed  rigid  type.  The  speed 
of  the  beater  at  the  breaker  picker  is 
1,500  revolutions  per  minute.  The  to- 
tal weight  of  the  lap  at  the  front  end 
of  the  breaker  picker  is  42  pounds. 
These  laps  are  doubled  4  into  1  at  the 
intermediate  picker,  the  speed  of  the 
beater  at  this  machine  being  also  1,500 
revolutions  per  minute.  The  total 
weight  of  the  lap  at  the  front  of  this 
machine  is  39  pounds  or  a  14-ounce 
lap.  The  laps  are  doubled  at  the  fin- 
isher picker  4  into  1.  The  speed  of  the 
beater  is  1,425  revolutions  per  minute. 

THE  TOTAL  WEIGHT 
of  the  lap  at  the  front  is  40  pounds  or 
a   14%-ounce   lap.       An   allowance   of 
one-half     pound    either    side    of    the 
standard  total  weight  of  lap  is  made 
for     this    class     of   goods.       At     the 
card  the  speed  of  the  licker-in  shouli 
be  350  revolutions  per  minute.    Do  not 
make  the  card  do  the  work  of  the  pick- 
er, but  watch  to  see  that  the  speed  of 
the  beater  is  correct  and  that  the  set- 
tings of     the  feed  roll     and  grid  and 
grate   bars  are  right  to  take  out  the  dirt, 
seed  shells,  bits  of  leaves,  etc.     It  is 
too  often  that   the  licker-in   is  called 
upon  to  do  the  work  that  the  picker 
should,  and  a  kick  is  made  that  the 
cards  are  not  doing  their  duty.     The 
speed  of  the  flats  is  one  complete  reV' 
olution  every  55  minutes.    The  wire  fil- 
let used  on  the  doffer  and  flats  is  No. 
34s   and   on   the   cylinder  is   No.    35s. 
Grind  and  strip  cards  as  described  in 
a  previous  article.    After  grinding,  the 
setting  points  should  be  all  gone  over. 
Do  not  have  the  flats  too  tight  or  they 
are  apt  to  cramp  and  face,  if  not  loos- 
en, the  wire  on  the  cylinder.     Be  al- 
ways sure  to  set  flats  to  cylinder  by 
the  highest  flats,  generally  five  being 
left  for  this  purpose.     The  weight  of 
the  sliver  should  be   about  50  grains 
per  yard  and  the  production  750  to  900 
pounds  per  week  of  60  hours. 
THE   CARD   SLIVER 
is  put  through  three  processes  of  draw- 
ing, the  doublings  being  6  into  1.    The 
speed  of  the  front   roller   should   be 
about    400   revolutions    per  minute    if 
leather  is  used,  and  350  revolutions  per 
minute  if  metallic  top  rolls  are  used. 
The  drawing  should  be  sized  at  least 
twice  a  day  and  four  times  a  day  is 
better.  The  setting  of  the  bottom  steel 
rolls  should  be  especially  looked  after, 
as  well  as  the  knock-off  motions,  to  see 
that  no  single  is  allowed  to  pass.     If 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


1575 


these  motions  are  not  in  perfect  work- 
ing order  single  will  be  allowed  to 
pass,  which  will  throw  your  numbers 
all  out  and  cause  a  great  deal  of  trou- 
ble to  remedy.  When  changing  the 
draft  to  change  weight,  always  have 
same  size  draft  gear  on  machines  run- 
ning the  same  kind  of  work.  The 
weight  per  yard  of  the  sliver  is  70 
grains  per  yard.  The  drawing  sliver  Is 
drawn  into  .60  hank  roving  at  the  slub- 
ber.    Watch 

THE  TRAVERSE  MOTION 
to  see  that  it  is  in  working  condition. 
After  passing  the  slubber,  the  roving 
is  passed  through  two  processes  of  fly 
frames,  the  hank  at  each  process  being 
2  at  the  first  and  6.50  hank  at  the  sec- 
ond for  the  warp  yarn  and  8  hank  for 
the  filling  yarn.  Size  these  yams  once 
a  day  and  be  sure  to  keep  them  on  the 
mark.  Watch  the  build  of  bobbins, 
traverse  motion,  rolls  and  setting  of 
same.  The  roving  for  warp  yarn  is 
made  in  34s  on  a  frame  with  a  1%-inch 
diameter  ring,  e^^-inch  traverse,  27.70 
turns  per  inch  ana  spindle  speed  of 
10,200  revolutions  per  minute.  The 
yarn  is  then  spooled,  warped  and 
slashed.  The  filling  is  spun  into  38s 
on  a  frame  having  a  1%-inch  diameter 
ring,  51^-inch  traverse,  23.12  twist  per 
Inch  and  spindle  speed  of  8,800  revo- 
lutions  per  minute. 

Dyeing    Particulars. 
PINK. 
Four  ounces    Erika    G;     15    pounds 
Glauber's;  2  pounds  sal  soda. 
LIGHT  BLUE. 
One-half  per  cent  diamine  sky  blue 
F  F;   15  per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent 
sal  soda. 

MAUVE. 
One-half  per  cent  diamine  violet  N; 
15  per  cent  Glauber's;    2  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

LIGHT  SLATE. 
One-quarter     per     cent       diamineral 
blue  R;  1-16  per  cent  diamine  fast  yel- 
low B;  10  per  cent    Glauber's;     2    per 
cent  sal  soda. 

LIGHT  FAWN. 
One-quarter    per   cent    diamine   cate- 
chine  G;  %  per  cent  diamineral  brown 
G;  10  per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

SI^TE. 
One  and  one-half  per    cent    diamine 
black  B  H;   %  per  cent    diamine    fast 
yellow  B;  20  per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per 
cent  sal  soda. 

PEA  GREEN. 
One-half  per  cent  diamine  green  G; 


10  per  cent  Glauber's;   2  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

ECRU. 

One-eighth  per  cent  diamine  catechine 
3  G;  Vst  per  cent  diamine  catechine  B; 
10  per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

ROYAL  BLUE. 

Two  per  cent  diamine  blue  3  R;  2  per 
cent  diamine  brilliant  blue  G;   20  per 
cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal  soda. 
SEAL  BROWN. 

Two  per  cent  diamine  catechine  B;  2 
per  cent  diamine  catechine  G;  20  per 
cent   Glauber's;    2   per   cent   sal   soda; 

1  per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow  A. 

WINE. 
Five  per  cent  diamine  Bordeaux  B; 

2  per  cent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's. 

RED. 

Four  per  cent  diamine  fast  red  2  B; 

2  per  cent  sal  soda;  15  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's. 

NAVY  BLUE. 

Five  per  cent  diamine  black  B  H;  1 

per  cent  diamine  brilliant  blue  G;   20 

per  cent  Glaubers;  2  per  cent  sal  soda. 

BLACK. 

Three  per  centdiaminejet  black  O  0; 

3  per  cent  diamine  jet  black  S  Sr  30 
per  cent  Glauber's;  2%  per  cent  sal 
stJda. 

BOTTLE   GREEN. 
Five  per  cent  diamine  black  H  W;  2 
per  cent  sal   soda;    20   per  cent  Glau- 
ber's; 2  per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow  B. 


BEIGE. 


Under  the  head  of  beige  is  a  class 
of  dress  goods,  the  characteristic  of 
which  is  their  mottled  or  mixed  effect. 
This  effect  is  brought  about  by  various 
methods.  The  method  used  in  produc- 
ing the  effect  largely  influences  the 
quality  of  the  fabric,  but  the  general 
appearance  remains  the  same. 

We  will  describe  beige  as  made  by 
three  different  methods:  First,  this 
fabric  as  originally  made  of  yams 
spun  from  wool  dyed  in  the  stock; 
this  dyed  stock  is  then  mixed  with  un- 
dyed  stock,  then  spun  into  a  thread; 
generally  several  mixtures  go  into 
one  fabric. 

These  mixtures  of  dyed  and  undyed 
stock  are  varied.  The  proportions 
used  may  be  50  per  cent  of  each;  an- 


276 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


other  mixture  may  have  a  more  or  less 
percentage  of  either  stock;  and  an- 
other mixture  may  be  composed  of 
still  a  different  percentage  from  the 
first  two. 

The  threads  then  spun  from  these 
mixtures  are  arranged  in  some  order 
in  the  warping  and  also  in  the  weaving, 
producing  what  are  commonly  known 
as  indefinite  plaid  effects  in  connection 
with  the  mixed  or  mottled  effects. 

THE  SECOND  METHOD 
is  to  use  a  combination  of  twist  yams, 
usually  three  or  four  different  colored 
threads,  as,  for  example,  black  and 
white,  black  and  slate,  slate  and  white, 
and  ithje  lother  may  be  a  pearl  and.  wlhite. 
These  combinations  of  threads  may  be 
arranged  similar  to  the  arrangement 
in  the  first  method,  likewise  pro- 
ducing an  indefinite  plaid  effect.  The 
use   of     black   and  white,     slate   and 


white,  and  colors  of  similar  shades,  pro- 
duces gray  effects.  Grays  and  browns 
are  the  prevailing  colors  in  this  class 
of  goods.  The  colored  yarn  used  in 
this  particular  class  is  usually  worsted, 
while  the  white  in  most  cases  is  a 
cotton  thread. 

THE  THIRD  METHOD 
of  producing  this  mixed  or  mottled  ef- 
fect is  brought  about  by  printing  the 
goods. 

This  method  is  usually  practiced  on 
the  cheaper  grade  of  goods,  goods  com- 
posed entirely  of  cotton  yarn;  the  ef- 
fect, hcxvever,  imitates  very  closely 
the  wool  dyed  in  the  stock  fabric  or 
the  goods  composed  of  twist  yarns. 
In  the  finer  grade  of  fabrics  the  twill 
weave  is  much  in  evidence,  while  the 
cotton  goods  are  mostly  woven  plain. 
The  plain  weave  is  more  adapted  to 


the  particular  character  of  printing; 
in  order  to  give  the  piald  effect  in  con- 
nection with  the  mixed  or  mottled  ap- 
pearance, the  goods  are  subjected  to 
two  processes  of  printing: 

ANALYSIS   OF   COTTON  BEIGE. 

Width  of  warp  in  reed,  38  inches; 
width  of  fabric  finished,  36  inches; 
reed,  1,000  by  2;  number  of  ends 
in  warp,  2,076;  28  ends  each 
selvedge  equals  56;  total  ends  in  warp, 
2,132.  Number  of  ends  per 
Inch  finished,  60;  picks  per  inch  fiin- 
isihed,  48;  take-up  of  warp  during 
weaving,  12  per  cent;  warp  and  filling 
yarn  1-26.  The  1,000  reed  means  1,000 
dents  in  36  inches  of  reed.  The  2,076 
is  'the  number  of  ends  in  warp  without 
the  selvedge. 

Fig.  1.  Sample  of  fabric  as  pro- 
duced by  means  of  twist  yarns;  the 
fabric  Is  plain  woven. 

LOOM  USED. 

For  the  better  grade  of  fabrics  the 
pick  and  pick  loom  is  required  to  give 
the  best  effects.  The  goods  woven 
pick  and  pick^will  be  less  inclined  to 
appear  stripy;  this  effect  would  be  un- 
desirable; the  stripes  should  be  of 
an  indefinite  nature. 

The  sample  of  fabric  shown  in  Fig. 
1  is  woven  on  a  4x1  box  loom,  in 
which  no  less  than  two  picks  of  one 
color  must  be  woven  before  it  changes 
on  to  the  next  color;  unless  the  col- 
ors are  carefully  graded  they  will  pro- 
dTice  a  fabric  more  or  less  striped. 
In  the  printed  cotton  beige  fabric  a 
single  box  loom  fills  the  requirements. 
This  grade  of  goods  is  woven  with  un- 
dyed  yarns;  the  effect,  as  already  men- 
tioned, is  produced  by  the  printing  ma- 
chine after  the  goods  are  woven. 
FINISHING. 

The  cotton  fabric,  after  it  is  woven, 
is  boiled  off,  after  which  it  is  slightly 
stiffened,  then  subjected  to  the  print- 
ing machine,  after  which  it  is  pressed, 
then  made  up  into  laps  or  rolls  and 
then  shipped. 


Carding  and  Spinning   Particulars. 

Beige  is  a  dress  goods  generally 
made  from  wool  and  sometimes  of 
wool  and  cotton,  other  grades  being 
made  from  all-cotton  yarns.  The  cot- 
ton is  dyed  in  the  stock.  Some  of  the 
grades  of  beige  are  made  from  combed 
yarn,  whereas  other  grades  are  made 
from  carded  yarns.  The  staple  of  the 
cotton  does  not  exceed  1%  inches  in 
length  for  an  American  cotton.  Mix 
cotton  as  has  been  previously  stated. 
Three  processes  of  pickers     are     used, 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


277 


the  particulars  being  the  same  as  giv- 
en for  etamine.  The  particulars  for 
the  cards  and  drawing  frames  as  giv- 
en in  that  article  may  be  also  follow- 
ed. 

AT  THE  SLUBBER 
the  drawing  sliver  is  made  into  .60 
hank  roving,  and  is  then  put  through 
two  processes  of  fly  fi-ames  or  speed- 
ers, the  hank  roving  at  the  first  inter- 
mediate being  1.75  and  at  the  second 
intermediate  being  5  hank.  Speeders 
should  be  looked  after  to  see  that 
the  rolls  are  properly  set;  that  top 
rolls  are  in  good  condition;  that  there 
are  no  dead  spindles;  that  the  spindles 
are  oiled  once  a  day;  the  build  of  bob- 
bin correct;  traverse  motion  working 
properly,  and  frame  at  all  times  clean 
and  neat.  The  bobbins  when  doffed 
should  not  be  thrown  into  doffing  box 
or  truck,  but  should  be  packed  in.  The 
boxes  or  trucks  should  be  cleaned  out 
before  doflBng.  After  changing  a  frame 
from  one  Icind  of  work  to  another  the 
new  roving  should  be  sized  and  tested 
for  twist,  and  the  tension  watched.  Af- 
ter the  speeders  the  yarn  is  put 
through 

THE  SPINNING  FRAME, 
where  the  proper  colors  of  yarns  are 
doubled  together  and  spun  into  26s 
yarn,  the  warp  frame  having  the  fol- 
lowing particulars:  Length  of  traverse, 
61^  inches;  diameter  of  ring.  1% 
inches;  gauge  of  frame,  2%inches,  and 
spindle  speed  of  9,700  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  yarn  is  then  spooled, 
warped  and  slashed.  For  the  filling 
frame  use  a  2%-inch  gauge  of  frame; 
1%-inch  diameter  ring;  64nch  traverse 
and  a  spindle  speed  of  8,000  revolutions 
per  minute:  the  diameter  of  the  front 
bottom  steel  roll  of  spinning  frames 
being  one  inch  for  both  warp  and  fill- 
ing. 


Dyeing   Particulars — Yarn    Dyeing. 

NAVY  BLUE. 
Four  per  cent  naphtamine  blue  2  B; 
30  per  cent  Glauber's;    2  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

MEDIUM    BROWN. 
Three  per  cent  naphtamine  brown  N; 
1  per  cent  naphtamine  yellow  N  N;  20 
per  cent  salt;  2  per  cent  sal  soda. 
RED. 
Four  per  cent  diamine  fast  red  B  B; 
2.5  per  cent  salt;  2  per  cent  sal  soda. 
DARK  BROWN. 
Four  per  cent  naphtamine  brown  6 
B;  25  per  cent  salt:  2  per  cent  sal  soda. 
SLATE. 
One   and   one-half   per   cent   naphta- 


mine black  D;   20  per  cent  salt;  2  per 
cent  sal  soda. 

OLIVE. 
Three  and  one-half  per  cent  naphta- 
mine olive  R;   20  per  cent  salt;   2  per 
cent  sal  soda. 

GREEN. 
Six  per  cent  immedial  green  G  G;  6 
per  cent  sulphide  soda;  2  per  cent  soda 
ash;   25  per  cent  Glauber's. 

DARK    BOTTLE    GREEN. 
Eight  per  cent  immedial  green;  8  per 
cent   sulphide   soda;    2    per   cent   soda 
ash;  25  per  cent  salt. 
ECRU. 
One-half  per  cent  diamine  catechine 
G;  20  per  cent  salt;  2  per  cent  sal  soda. 
BLACK. 
Ten  per  cent  immedial  black  N  N;  10 
per  cent  sulphide  sodium;   3  per  cent 
soda  ash;   30  per  cent  salt. 
MAROON. 
Six  per  cent  immedial  Bordeaux  G; 
6  per  cent  suphide  sodium;  2  per  cent 
soda  ash;  30  per  cent  salt. 
LIGHT  BLUE. 
Six  per  cent  immedial  sky  blue  F  F; 
6  per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  2  per  cent 
soda  ash;  30  per  cent  salt. 


Printing    Particulars. 

Cotton  beige  is  also  printed  on  the 
piece.  To  get  a  good  imitation  of  the 
woven  fabric,  it  has  to  be  printed  on 
both  sides  of  the  piece.  After  printing 
one  side  of  the  fabric  and  drying,  the 
pieces  are  rolled  up  on  a  roller  and 
the  other  side  of  the  piece  is  printed, 
so  that  both  sides  of  the  piece  present 
the  same  appearance.  The  goods  are 
given  a  soft  finish  to  imitate  a  piece  of 
dress  goods.  The  colors  printed  on  are 
made  as  fast  as  possible,  so  that  the 
goods  can  be  washed  when  required. 

The  goods  are  printed,  dried  and 
steamed  in  a  Mather  and  Piatt  at  212 
degrees  F.,  excluding  the  air  as  far  as 
possible.  Wash  in  cold  water,  soap  luke- 
warm, rinse  and  dry. 
BLUE. 

Seventy  parts  immedial  indone  B  N; 
stir  well  to  a  paste  with  20  parts  caus- 
tic soda  lye,  77  degrees  Tw. ;  50  parts 
glycerine;  then  add  150  parts  reducing 
paste  A.  The  whole  is  heated  for  some 
time  to  140  degrees  F.  and  cooled;  stir 
in  80  parts  China  clay;  60  parts  sat- 
urated solution  of  common  salt;  570 
parts  alkaline  gum  thickening. 
GREEN. 

Ninety  parts  immedial  green  G  G; 
300  parts  alkaline  gum  thickening;  40 
parts   China   clay;    30   parts   saturated 


278 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


common  salt  solution;  150  parts  re- 
ducing paste  A;  mix  and  stir;  when 
cool  add  40  parts  China  clay;  30  parts 
saturated  common  salt  solution;  320 
parts  alkaline  green  thickening. 

BLACK 

Seventy  parts immedial  black  N  L  N; 
150  parts  reducing  paste  A;  heat  to- 
gether to  120  degrees  F.;  allow  to  cool 
down,  then  stir  in  a  mixture  of  160 
parts  China  clay;  120  parts  saturated 
solution  of  salt;  500  parts  alkaline  gum 
thickening. 

BROWN. 

Mix  as  the  blue  with  70  parts  imme- 
dial brown  B;  10  parts  immedial  yel- 
low D. 

DARK  SLATE. 

Thirty  parts  immedial  black  N  B; 
mix  as  the  green. 

LIGHT   SLATE. 

Ten  parts  immedial  black  N  G;  2 
parts  immedial  direct  blue  B;  mix  as 
the  green. 

ECRU. 

Five  parts  immedial  yellow  D;  2 
parts  immedial  cutch  G;  mix  as  the 
green. 

OLIVE. 

Fifty  parts  immedial  olive  B;  20 
parts  immedial  bronze  A;  mix  as  the 
green. 

BRONZE. 

Forty  parts  bronze  A;  10  parts  cutch 
G;  mix  as  the  green. 

FAWN. 
Fifty    parts    immedial    cutch    O;    10 
parts  immedial  brown  R  R;  mix  as  the 
green. 

LIGHT  BLUE. 
Forty  parts  immedial  sky  blue;   mix 
as  the  green. 


POPLIN, 


Poplin  is  a  name  given  to  a  class  of 
goods  distinguished  by  a  rep,  rib,  or 
cord  effect  running  width  way  of  the 
piece.  It  referred  originally  to  a  fabric 
having  a  silk  warp  and  a  figure  of  wool 
filling  heavier  than  the  warp.  At  the 
present  time  it  refers  more  to  a  ribbed 
fabric  than  to  one  made  from 
any  particular  combination  of  mate- 
rials. 

7.0O0  (grs.  per  lb.)  x  2.6  (yds.) 
■^  2.940  (grs.) 


Cotton  poplin  is  usually  made  with 
a  plain  weave,  the  rep  effect  being  ob- 
tained either  by  using  a  fine  warp  as 
compared  with  the  filling,  or  a  large 
number  of  ends  as  compared  with 
picks  per  inch,  or  both. 

IRISH  POPLIN, 

made  principally  in  Dublin,  is  a  fabric 
made  of  China  organzine  silk  warp  and 
colonial  wool  filling.  The  manufacture 
of  this  cloth  has  continued  in  Dublin 
since  1693,when  a  number  of  Huguenot 
silk  weavers  emigrated  from  Lyons, 
France.  The  industry  is  still  carried 
OP  there  to  some  extent  on  hand  looms, 
the  weavers  owning  their  own  looms. 
The  materials  are  supplied  by  the  firms 
for  whom  they  work  and  are  given 
out  ready  for  weaving.  The  Irish  pop- 
lin is  a  light-weight  variety  of  poplin, 
sometimes  called  single  poplin,  and  is 
celebrated  for  its  uniformly  fine  and  ex- 
cellent wearing  qualities. 

Brocaded  poplin  is  made  with  elab- 
orate jacquard  designs  of  various 
types. 

TERRY  POPLIN 

is  a  very  durable  fabric,  made  on  the 
principle  of  cloth  construction  ex- 
plained in  the  article  on  "Terry  Pile 
Fabrics."  By  throwing  to  the  surface 
alternate  ends  of  the  silk  warp  an  ap- 
pearance somewhat  resembling  terry 
velvet  is  obtained. 

The  bulk  of  cotton  poplin  goods  are 
woven  and  finished  white.  Those  that 
are  shown  in  colors,  except  those  of 
poor  quality,  are  yarn  dyed.  They  are 
not  piece  dyed,  for  the  reason  that 
when  fine  and  coarse  yarns  are  com- 
bined in  the  same  fabric  they  do  not 
take  the  dyes  equally. 

For  a  given  length  of  poplin  cloth 
a  much  greater  length  of  warp  is  re- 
quired than  for  an  equal  length  of 
cloth  where  the  warp  and  filling  yarns 
and  ends  and  picks  are  practically 
equal,  because  the  coarse  filling  lies  in 
the  cloth  in  practically  a  straight  line, 
the  warp  yarns  having  to  do  all  the  de- 
flecting. 

The  analysis  of  a  typical  cotton  pop- 
lin of  good  quality  shows  the  following 
data:  Ends  per  inch,  104;  picks  per 
inch.  4S;  finished  width,  27  inches; 
weight  about  6  yards  per  pound;  warp 
yarns.  2-6Ss;  filling  yarns,  2-60s.  Plain 
weave. 

CALCULATIONS. 

To  find  number  of  yards  per  pound 
'iVz  yards  weigh  2,940  grains. 

6.95,     say    6    yds.     per    pound. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


279 


To  find  average  counts  of  yarn,  as- 
suming the  warp  yarn  to  have  con- 
tracted 10  per  cent  in  length  from  warp 
to  finished  cloth,  and  the  filling  4  per 
cent  in  width: 

IM  (ends)  divided  by  .90 116.65 

48  (picks)  divided  by  .96 60.00 


165.56  X  2T.5  (width)  x  6  (weight) 


840 


=  32.5  aver.  couDt3. 


In  dealing  with  the  preceding  calcula- 
tions it  has  been  considered  that  the 
yarns  were  mercerized  before  being 
woven,  and  the  counts  indicated  after 
mercerizing.  The  mercerizing  process 
tends  to  contract  the  length  of  yarn  to 
a  greater  or  less  degree,  depending  up- 
on the  quality  of  the  yarn,  the  mercer- 
izing liquor,  and  the  machinery  used. 
If  mercerized  under  tension,  there  is 
not  a  very  large  contraction,  but  if  the 
yarn  is  allowed  to  contract  it  may  do 
so  to  the  extent  of  20  to  30  per  cent,that 
is,  a  cotton  yarn  spun  to  50s  may  con- 
tract in  the  mercerizing  bath  to  40s  or 
35s  yarn. 

Both  warp  and  filling  in  the  sample 
under  consideration  are  mercerized,and 
are  2-ply  yarns  of  good  quality. 

To  find  the  counts  of  filling  required 
to  give  the  stated  weight,  assuming  the 
warp  yarn  to  be  2-ply  68s: 

165.55  divided  by  32.5  (ave.   counts) 6.09 

115.55  (slay)  divided  by  34  (warp  counts) 3.39 

1.7» 

Fifty  divided  by  1.70  equals  29.4 
equals  2-59s  filling  required.  The 
counts  would  be  indicated  as  2-60s. 

The  selvedges  consist  of  eight  double 
ends  on  each  side. 

To  find  number  of  ends  in  warp: 

104   (ends   per   inch)   x   27.5   (cloth   width)    =   2,860. 
2,860  +  16  tor  selvedge  =  2,876,   total  ends. 

To  find  weight  of  warp  in  100  yards 
of  cloth: 

2,876  (ends)  x  100  (yards 


and  one  filling  being  sufficient.  It  is 
not  advisable  to  use  automatic  looms 
unless  the  same  are  equipped  to  change 
the  cop  or  bobbin  before  the  preceding 
one  has  spent  itself,  because  a  mispick 
is  one  of  the  defects  that  shows  most 
prominently  in  this  class  of  goods. 

FINISHING. 
The  fabric  under  consideration,  hav- 
ing been  bleached  and  mercerized  in 
the  yarn,  requires  very  little  aftertreat- 
ment.  It  is  washed,  conditioned,  cal- 
endered lightly  and  made  up,  book  fold. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

When  making  the  yarns  for  poplin 
the  same  particulars  may  be  followed 
as  have  been  previously  given  in  the 
article  on  "Lawn."  For  this  par- 
ticular grade  of  poplin  the  warp 
yarn  is  2-68s  and  the  filling  yarn  2-60s. 
Use  the  instructions  given  for  making 
60s  warp  yarn,  with  the  following  ex- 
ceptions. The  spinning  fi-ame  for  the 
warp  yarn  would  be  as  follows:  For 
making  68s  warp  yarn,  1%  inches 
diameter  of  ring;  S^/^  length  of  trav- 
erse, and  spindle  speed  of  10,000  revo- 
lutions per  minute.  This  yarn  is  then 
spooled  and  twisted  into  2-ply,  the 
twist  put  in  being  39.17  turns  per  inch. 
After  being  twisted,  the  yarn  is  warped 
and  slashed.  For  spinning  the  60s 
filling  yarn  use  a  frame  having  a  1% 
inch  diameter  ring;  5-inch  traverse,  27 
twists  per  inch  and  a  spindle  speed  of 
8,000  revolutions  per  minute.  This  yarn 
is  spooled  and  twisted  into  2-60s,  after 
which  it  is  conditioned  and  is  then 
ready  for  use. 


Dyeing   Particulars. 
BRONZE. 

Five  per  cent  pyrol  bronze; 


per 


840  X  34  (counts)  x  .90  (10%  contraction) 


=  11.18  lbs.   warp. 


To  find  weight  of  filling  in  100  yards 
of  cloth: 


cent  sulphide  sodium;   2  per  cent  soda 
ash;    20  per   cent   salt. 


48  (picks)  X  27.5  (cloth  width)  x  100  (yds.) 


840  X  30  (counts)  x  .96  (4%  contraction) 

To  find  weight  of  100-yard  cut: 


=  6.45     lbs.   filling. 


11.18   lbs.    warp. 
6.46  lbs.   filling. 

16.63  lbs.   yarn   in   100  yards  of  cloth 

To  find  number  of  yards  per  pound: 

100  divided   by  16.63  =  6   yards  per  pound. 

LOOM  REQUIRED. 

For  plain  weave  poplins  an  ordinary 
plain  cam  loom  is  required,  one  warp 


GREEN. 

Six  per  cent  pyrol  gi-een  G:  6  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;  2  per  cent  soda 
ash;  20  per  cent  salt. 

BLUE. 
Six  per  cent  pyrol  blue  B;  6  per  cent 
sulphide  sodium;  2  per  cent  soda  ash; 
20  per  cent  salt. 

ECRU. 
One-half  per  cent  immedial  catechine 


280 


A    COTTON   FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


G;   1  per  cent  sulphide  sodium;   2  per 
cent  soda  ash;  10  per  cent  salt. 

OLIVE. 
Two  per  cent  immedial  indone  B;  6 
per  cent  immedial  yellow  D;  V2  per 
cent  immedial  catechine  G;  9  per  cent 
sulphide  sodium;  2  per  cent  soda  ash; 
25  per  cent  salt. 

WINE. 
Eight  per  cent  diamine  Bordeaux  B; 
2  per  cent  sal  soda:  25  per  cent  salt. 

RED. 
Five  per  cent  diamine  fast  red  B  B; 
2  per  cent  sal  soda;  25  per  cent  salt. 

NAVY  BLUE. 
Eight  per  cent  katigen  indigo  B:    S 
per  cent  sulphide  sodium;    2   per  cen: 
soda  ash;   30  per  cent  salt. 

SLATE. 
One  per  cent  thion  black  T  B;   2  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;   1  per  cent  soda 
ash;  10  per  cent  salt. 

SKY  BLUE. 
One  per  cent  diamine  skj-  blue  F  F: 
1  per  cent  sal  soda;  10  per  cent  salt. 
SEA  GREEN. 
One-half  per  cent  immedial  green  B; 
1  per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  2  per  cent 
soda  ash;   10  per  cent  salt. 


COTTON-MOHAIR  FABRICS, 


Mohair  fabrics,  commonly  so 
called,  are  used  exclusively  for  dress 
goods,  in  the  form  of  tailor-made  suits, 
skirts,  children's  coats,  etc. 

The  name,  mohair,  is  acquired  from 
the  material  used  in  the  construction 
of  the  fabric.  This  material,  mohair, 
the  product  of  the  Angora  goat,  is 
used  principally  in  the  filling  only; 
the  warp  may  be  cotton,  worsted,  or 
silk,  according  to  the  quality  of  fabric 
wanted. 

The  characteristics  of  mohair  fab- 
rics are  their  crispness  and  glossy  ap- 
pearance. These  features  are  effected 
by  the  mohair.  Mohair,  like  wool,  is 
an  animal  fibre,  but  differs  from  the 
latter  in  so  far  that  the  fibres  are 
longer  and  coarser  than  wool,  and  mo- 
hair is  not  as  soft  or  as  crinkled  as 
■wool;  in  brief,  it  may  be  described  as 
a  long,  straight,  glossy  animal  fibre. 
These  fabrics 

VARY    CONSIDERABLY 
in  regard  to  quality,  style  and  width. 


but  all  are  plain  woven  fabrics. 
Some  are  elaborated  into  spot 
patterns  by  means  of  the  fill- 
ing floating  over  a  given  number  of 
ends  in  some  geometrical  form. 
Again,  the  spots  may  be  formed  by 
the  use  of  an  extra  warp.  This 
warp  floats  on  the  back  of  the 
fabric  for  a  given  space,  then  comes 
to  the  face  for  a  required  number  of 
picks.  This  extra  warp  is  usually 
mercerized,  the  yarn  differing  in  color 
from  the  body  of  warp  and  being  ar- 
ranged in  groups  of  two  or  more  ends 
across  the  entire  breadth  of  warp. 
These  groups  of  threads  may  alter- 
nate, as,  for  example,  one  group  may 
be  yellow,  the  next  green,  another  re  J 


Fig.  1. 

or  any  color  that  may  strike  the  fancy 
of  the  designer,  providing  that  the 
color  thus  used  produces  some  degree 
of  harmony.  This  will  give  plenty  of 
variety  to  the  fabric,  and  if  these  va- 
rious groups  of  threads  are  made  to 
work  on  some  sateen  or  broken  twill 
order,  they  will  give  the  appearance 
of  a  large  design,  or,  as  generally 
mentioned,  a  jacquard  effect.  In  fill- 
ing floated  fabrics,  it  is  most  impor- 
tant that  the  distribution  of  the  figure 
should  be  so  that  the  eye  is  not  at- 
tracted by  lines  formed  by  the  un- 
equal distribution  of  the  figure.  This 
objectional  feature  is  most  likely  to 
occur  in  designs  of  this  character.  It 
is  somewhat  difllcult  to  tell  If  the  dis- 
tribution is  perfect  without  extending 
the  design  for  four  or  even  more  re- 
peats. In  designs  which  consist  of 
set  figures,  the  difficulty  of  arrange- 
ment  is   somewhat  eliminated   by   ar- 


A  COTTOX  FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


2S1 


ranging  the  figure  on  some  irregular 
sateen  basis,  the  irregular  sateen  be- 
ing preferred  to  the  regular  sateen 
basis  as  the  former  gives  a  somewhat 
stiif  appearance,  the  latter  giving  a 
mixed  effect  more  suitable  for  this 
class  of  fabrics.  Figure  1  shows  one 
repeat  of  the  design,  the  spot  based 
on  a  5-harness  sateen  order.  Figure 
2  shows  one  repeat  of  figure  based  on 

— g  broken  twill.  Figure  2  presents 
a  more  mixed  effect  than  Fig.  1. 

Considerable  quantities  of  mohair 
are  woven  plain  throughout.  In  this 
style  of  fabrics  the  ornamentation,  if 
such  is  desired,  is  effected  by  means 
of  twist  or  fancy  colored  threads  ar- 
ranged in  some  order,  usually  in  the 
warp  only,  though  a  similar  arrange- 
ment may  be  carried  out.  in  regard  to 
the     filling.       These     fancy     colored 


F>K<vflKw*<w 


Fis.  2. 

threads  may  be  arranged  in  almost 
any  way  possible;  the  object,  hov;- 
ever,  is  to  have  a  fine  hair-line  stripe 
throughout  the  entire  length  of  fabric. 
Still  another  method  of  breaking  the 
monotony  of  a  plain  fabric  is  to  skip 
a  dent  in  the  reed  at  certain  inter- 
vals; this  may  be  carried  out  with 
fancr  colored  threads  if  desired. 
These  fabrics,  as  mentioned  above, 
are  made  in  various  qualities.  We 
will  here  deal  with  the  cotton  warp 
and  mohair  filling  fabric.  This  par- 
ticular class  is  usually  piece  dyed. 
The  warp,  however,  is  dyed  before  it 
is  beamed.  When  twist  yarn  is.  used, 
that  is,  a  twist  composed  of  two 
different  colored  threads,  one  of 
the  two  threads  in  some  fabrics 
is  a  worsted  thread;  when  such 
Is  the  fact,  the  warp  is  not 
dyed  until  woven  into  the  fabric;  the 
cotton  end  composing  one  of  the  twist 
threads  will  not  take  the  color  in  a 
worsted  dye.  When  cotton  only  is  use 


in  the  twist  one  of  the  threads  is 
dyed  before  it  is  twisted,  that  is,  if  a 
colored  and  white  thread  is  to  be  the 
twist  wanted. 
ANALYSIS  OF  COTTON  MOHAIR. 
Width  in  reed,  60^^  inches;  width 
finished,  54  inches;  ends  per  inch  in 
reed,  44;  ends  in  warp,  2,6G0;  ends  in 
selvedge,  78  (39  each  side,  3  in  a 
dent);  total  ends,  2,738;   reed,  44x1. 

Dressing  2  ends  black 

1  end  black,  white 

2  ends  black 

1  end  black,  white 

2  ends  black 

1  end  black,  white 

2  ends  black 

1  end  black,  white 

2  ends  black 

2  ends  black,  white 

10 
Ends   in   warp. 

1.664  black  cotton  10  2-SO 

996  black  white  cotton    6  2-80 

78  bleached  cotton    0  2-80 

2,738  16 

Filling  l-15s  mohair,   48   picks. 
LOOM    REQUIRED. 

The  plain  mohair,  or  the  fabric  in 
which  the  ornamentation  is  effected  by 
means  of  fancy  colored  threads,  may 
be  woven  on  any  light-weight  loom; 
the  roller,  dobby  or  Northrop  loom 
may  be  used  to  advantage.  The 
loom  could  make  better  cloth  if  it 
had  a  warp  stop-motion,  as  it  is  very 
important  that  no  ends  be  left  out  in 
the  weaving;  if  they  are,  they  must 
be  sewed  in  before  the  fabric  is  fin- 
ished, thus  entailing  another  expense. 

Fancy  figured  mohair  requires  the 
use  of  a  jacquard  loom,  on  account  of 
the  number  of  ends  in  the  repeat  of 
the  pattern,  which  would  be  too  great 
for  the  dobby  loom. 

The  warp  for  mohair  fabrics  is 
reeded  one  end  in  one  dent,  and  wov- 
en with  considerable  tension  on  the 
warp  beam. 

FINISHING. 

After  the  fabric  is  woven  it  is  ex- 
amined and  mended  if  necessary, 
then  scoured,  after  which  it  is  dyed. 
These  fabrics  are  dyed  in  various  col- 
ors and  shades.  After  the  dyeing 
process,  the  fabrics  are  sheared  on  the 
face,  then  doubled  and  made  up  into 
rolls,  ready  for  the  market. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Mohair  is  composed  of  all  mohair  or 
a  cheaper  grade  which  is  made  up  ol 
mohair  and  cotton.     The  count  of  tha 


282 


A   COTTON   FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


yarn  used  for  the  sample  under  de- 
scription is  composed  of  1-1 5s  mohair 
filling  and  2-80s  warp  yarn.  The  yarn 
for  the  filling  is  made  in  cotton  mills 
of  either  the  first  or  second  division 
as  classified  in  a  previous  article. 
The  yarn  is  made  from  an  American 
cotton,  either  peeler  or  Allen  seed 
being  used.  The  staple  is  1%  inches, 
and  cotton  should  be  of  a  good  grade. 
As  this  cotton  is  apt  to  be  very  dirty, 
it  is  generally  put  through  an  opener 
and  three  processes  of  picking. 

THE  MIXING 
should  be  as  large  as  possible,  and  If 
possible  the  mixing  should  be  allowed 
to  stand  for  at  least  three  days  before 
using  so  that  it  may  dry  out  and  ex- 
pand. If  this  is  done  it  will  be  found 
that  the  cotton  is  easier  to  work  and 
the  dirt  will  be  taken  out  very  much 
easier.  At  the  mixing  be  sure  that 
the  grades  of  the  cotton  of  each  bale 
are  the  same  and  do  not  under  any 
circumstances  use  a  creamy  bale. 
Each  bale  should  be  stapled  before 
being  put  into  the  mix  to  see  that 
it  is  up  to  staple.  Keep  the  hop- 
per of  the  opener  well  filled  with  cot- 
ton so  as  to  obtain  as  even  a  feed  as 
possible.     The 

SPEED  OF  THE  BEATER 
at  the  breaker  picker  for  this  stock 
is  1,450  revolutions  per  minute,  the 
beater  used  being  of  a  two-bladed 
type.  The  weight  of  a  40'-yard  lap  at 
the  front  of  the  breaker  is  40  pounds 
or  a  16-ounce  lap.  At  the  interme- 
diate packer  the  speed  of  the  beate? 
should  be  1,400  revolutions  per  min- 
ute, the  lap  at  the  front  weighing  37^ 
pounds  or  a  12-ounce  lap.  At  the  fin- 
isher picker  the  speed  of  the  beater 
is  1,350  revolutions  per  minute.  The 
total  weight  of  the  lap  is  35  pounds 
or  a  121^-ounce  lap.  At  the  finisher 
picker  the  good  waste  laps,  or,  as  they 
are  sometimes  called,  cut  roving 
waste  laps,  are  mixed  in  with  the  raw 
stock,  one  lap  cut  waste  to  three  laps 
of  good  cotton.  In  mills  that  do  not 
have  a  roving  waste  picker  it  is 

THE  GENERAL  CUSTOM 
to  take  out  the  middle  two  laps  and 
spread  the  cut  waste  evenly  in  this 
span  and  use  up  the  waste  in  this 
manner.  These  laps  are  sometimes 
put  up  at  the  cards,  but  the  general 
custom  is  to  put  them  through  the  fin- 
isher picker  again  in  the  proportion 
named  above.  A  variation  of  not 
more  than  one-half  a  pound  either 
side  of  standard  is  allowed,  every  lap 
being  weighed.  If  the  laps  weigh  over 
or  under  this   allowance   they   should 


be  run  over  again.  This  point  cannot 
be  looked  into  too  closely  and  it  will 
save  a  lot  of  trouble  in  the  evenness 
of  the  numbers  at  the  fine  frames  and 
in  the  spinning  room.  The  laps  from 
the  picker  are  put  up 

AT    THE    CARD, 

the  speed  of  the  licker-in  being  350 
revolutions  per  minute;  speed  of  flats, 
one  complete  revolution  every  45  min- 
utes (110  flats).  The  cards  should  be 
properly  set,  ground  and  stripped  at 
least  three  times  a  day.  Keep  the 
wire  sharp  at  all  times  and  it  is  a 
good  plan  to  grind  the  flats  on  a  spe- 
cial grinding  machine  for  flats,  they 
being  taken  off  the  cards  for  this  pur- 
pose. The  weight  of  the  sliver  at  the 
card  is  45  grains  per  yard.  As  the  sliv- 
er is  to  be  combed,  the  card  sliver  is 
put  up  at  the  sliver  lap  machine, 
where  it  is  doubled  14  into  1  (i.  e., 
for  a  8%-inch  width  lap).  The  weight 
of  a  yard  of  lap  at  the  front  is  290 
grains.  These  laps  are  put  up  at  the 
ribbon  lap  machine  and  doubled  six 
into  1,  the  weight  of  a  yard  of  lap  at 
this  machine  being  275  grains.  These 
laps  are  put  up  at  the  comber  and 
doubled  according  to  the  number  of 
heads  that  the  comber  has.  The  per- 
centage of  waste  taken  out  at  this 
machine  is  18  per  cent.  The  weight 
of  the  sliver  is  35  grains  per  yard. 
This  sliver  is  put  through  two  proc- 
esses of 

DRAWING  FRAMES, 

the  doubling  at  each  process  generally 
being  6  into  1,  although  some  mills 
double  8  into  1  at  the  breaker  and  6 
into  1  at  the  finisher.  The  weight  of 
the  sliver  at  the  front  of  the  finisher 
drawing  should  be  70  grains  per  yard. 
Either  metallic  or  leather  top  rolls 
may  be  used  for  this  class  of  work, 
generally  the  latter  being  used.  See 
that  the  leather  top  rolls  on  all  ma- 
chines are  in  perfect  shape  and  well 
varnished;  size  the  ribbon  laps  at 
least  once  a  day  and  drawing  frames 
four  times  a  day.  The  drawing  sliver 
is  put  up  at  the  slubber  and  drawn 
into  .55  hank  roving,  after  which  it  is 
put  through  three  processes  of  fly 
frames,  the  hank  roving  made  at 
each  process  being  as  follows:  First 
intermediate,  1.50,  2d,  4.50  and  fine 
frame,  16  hank.  This  yarn  is  taken  to 
the  spinning  frame  and  spun  into  80s 
on  a  frame  with  a  2%-inoh  gauge  of 
frame,  1%-inch  diameter  ring,  5%-'inch 
traverse  and  spindle  speed  of  9,600  rev- 
olutions per  minute.  This  yarn  is 
then  spooled  and  then  twisted  into  2- 
ply   SOs  yarn,   many  times   two   differ- 


A  COTTON   FABRICS  GLX)i&SARY. 


283 


ent  colored  yarns  being  twisted  to- 
irether.  The  yarn  is  then  respooled 
and  run  upon  a  beam,  after  which  the 
beams  are  put  through  the  slasher 
and  sized. 


Dyeing   Particulars. 
MEDIUM  BROWN. 

Three  per  cent  naphtamine  brown 
N;  1  per  cent  naphtamine  yellow  N 
N;  20  per  cent  salt;  2  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

DARK   BROWN. 

Four  per  cent  naphtamine  brown  6 
B;  25  per  cent  salt;  2  per  cent  sal 
soda. 

SLATE. 

One  and  one-half  per  cent  naphta- 
mine black  D;  20  per  cent  salt;  2  per 
cent  sal  soda. 

OLIVE. 

Three  and  one-half  per  cent  naphta- 
mine olive  R;  20  per  cent  salt;  2  per 
cent  sal  soda. 

DARK  BOTTLE   GREEN. 

Eight  per  cent  immedial  green;  8 
per  cent  sulphide  soda;  2  per  cent 
soda  ash;  25  per  cent  salt. 

BLACK. 

Ten  per  cent  immedial  black  N  N; 
10  per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  3  per 
cent  soda  ash;    30  per  cent  salt. 

MAROON. 

Six  per  cent  immedial  Bordeaux  G; 
6  per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  2  per 
cent  soda  ash;   30  per  cent  salt. 


HERRINGBONE  STRIPES, 


Herringbone  stripes  are  certain 
weave  effects  resembling  herring 
bones.  They  are  developed  to  the 
greatest  extent  in  men's  wear  fabrics, 
woolens,  worsteds,  cotton  worsteds 
and  all-cottons,  although  in  these 
goods  the  arrangements  of  various  col- 
ors in  the  warp  yarns  form  one  of  the 
principal  component  parts  of  the  pat- 
tern. Herringbone  weaves  in  ladies' 
dress  goods  are  usually  shown  in 
white. 

These  weaves  are  a  development  of 


ordinary  twill  weaves  iln  which  the 
twills,  instead  of  running  in  one  un- 
broken line  diagonally  across  the 
piece,  run  for  a  certain  number  of  ends 
one  way  and  a  certain  number  of  ends 
in  the  reverse  direction,  thus  breaking 
the  continuity  of  the  twill.  They  dif- 
fer from  wave  effects  in  having  the  two 
ends  defining  the  turning  points  of  the 
twill  arranged  to  work  opposite  each 
other,  i.  e.,  when  one  is  raised  the 
other  is  depressed.  This  may  be  seen 
at  the  points  indicated  by  the  daggers 
in  Figs.  1  to  5. 

The  foundation  twills  principally 
used  when  developing  these  weaves 
for  men's  wear  goods  are  the  even 
flushed  twills  '^-^     and    ?-^,    ,  Figs.  6 

and  7,  the  former  forming  the  greater 
])roportion.  Figs.  1  to  5  show  some  of 
the  other  weaves  used,  the  number  of 
ends  in  each  section  and  the  number 
of  sections  in  a  repeat  being  made  to 
vary  according  to  rquirements.  The 
daggers  indicate  the  cutting  points. 

Although  the  principle  may  be  ex- 
tended to  large  weaves,  it  is  seldom 
that  the  effects  are  made  from  a 
weave  base  greater  than  eight  ends 
and  eight  picks. 

Fig.  8  illustrates  a  herringbone  ef- 
fect in  a  cotton  cloth  made  with  weave 
Fig.  1.  In  the  gray  the  warp  appears 
to  stand  up  from  the  cioth  in  the  sec- 
tions weaving  ^—     on  the  face.    This 

prominent  effect  is  modified  in  the  fin- 
ished cloth. 

Fig.  8  is  one  of  a  line  or  range  of 
patterns  made  and  finished  in  Eng- 
land, for  sale  in  northwest  Africa. 
The  construction  of  the  cloth  is  as  fol- 
lows: width  in  gray,  30i^  inches; 
ends  per  inch,  68;  picks  per  inch,  72; 
warp,  35s;  filling,  48s;  yards  per 
pound,  7.72,  say  7%.  The  ends  have 
been  reeded  equally  throughout,  2  ends 
per  dent.  The  selvedges  consist  of 
12  ends  of  2-ply  30s  yarn  on  each  side, 

CALCULATIONS. 

To  find  number  of  ends  in  warp: 

6S  (ends  per  Inch)  x  30^  (Inches)  =  2,074  ends. 

2,074    4-    24    (selveilgesi    =    2,09S    ends    in    warp. 
24  2-pl7  yarns  represent  48  single  yams. 

In  the  above  calculation  24  of  these 
were  considered  when  multiplying  the 
ends  per  inch  by  the  width,  leaving 
but  24  to  be  added. 

To  find  weight  of  warp: 


209S  (ends)  x  105  (yds.) 


S40  X  3S 

To  find  weight  of  filling: 


=   7.05   lbs.    warp. 


(pks.)  X  33  In.  (width  In  reed)  x  100  (yds.) 


840  X  48 


=  5.89    lbs.    filling. 


284 


A    COTTON   FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


To  find  number  of  yards  per  pound: 

7.05  lbs.   wan>. 
5.89  lbs.  filling. 

12.94  lbs.    weight    of    cut. 
100  (yds.)  divided  by  12.94  =  7.72  yards  per  pound. 

The  finished  fabric  has  been  heavily 
sized  or  filled,  giving  but  6  2-3  yards 
per   pound. 

LOOM  REQUIRED. 

The  class  of  goods  under  considera- 
tion  is  generally   woven   on  fast  run- 


t  t  t 

DDBCaDBCBDBBBaBB 
DBDaDBOGBBDBBBDB 
■DDDBCDaBBBDBBBa 

Fig.  1. 

t     t 

DDBCnBnDBDBBDBBnni! 
CBDDBDDBDBaBBDBGBa 

BaDBDDBaaBBaBBDflaa 
Fig.  2. 


stripes  are  composed  are  maae  in 
mills  of  the  second  division,  as  given 
in  a  previous  article.  The  count  of 
the  yarns  put  into  this  style  of  fabric 
varies,  and  for  this  article  we  will  con- 
sider that  the  count  of  the  yarn  used 
is  35s  for  warp  yarn,  48s  for  filling 
and  30s  for  the  selvedge.  The  staple 
of  the  cotton  used  for  the  30s  and  35s 
yarn  is  1^4  inch  and  for  the  48s  is  1 
3-16  inch  of  a  middling  grade. 

THE  MIXINGS 

should  be  as  large  as  possible  so  that 
as  little  variation  as  possible  will  be 
found  between  the  different  mixings, 
and  also  there  should  be  tM'O  mixings 
of  the  same  length  of  staple,  one  being 
used  while  the  other  is  being  worked. 
If   the  mixing  is   put   through   a  bale 


t  + 

DBDDCBDBBBaB -BDDaa 
BODOBaBDaBBOBDaDBa 
naGBDBDBDBBBDaaBDB 
DDBGBaBDBDBBDaBaaa 
DBDBnDBB~BDBaBGBan 
BDBDD::BBBCBuBDBaaa 

Fig.  3. 


t      t 

BDBDaBaBBDBDaBBaCB 
DBDQBBOaBBDBGDBOBB 
■DaBBDBaDBBDBuDBBD 
nCB  BCBDBDnBBDBDBDB 
DBBCBDBCBDDBBDaaBD 
■  BGB::CBBGBGaBBDBaa 


Fig.  4. 


aaCBBBCBDBDaDBBB 
DDBBBOBDBDBDDOBB 
CBBaDBaDBBDBaDDB 

aaBaaaDDBBBDaaDD 
aBDBDDDaaaaaDBDg 

BGBDGDBBODBBBDBg 
DBDDDBBBnDCBBBDB 
BDaaBBBDBDDDBBBD 

Fig.  5. 


BBDDDI 
BDDDBI 
DDDBBI 
DDBBBL 


Fig.  6. 


Fig. 7. 


ning,  side  cam,  single  box  looms.  One 
warp  only  is  required  and  the  goods 
are  reeded  equally  throughout. 
FINISHING. 
This  fabric  has  been  subjected  to 
the  "back  filled"  process  of  finishing. 
This  consists  of  bleaching,  mangling, 
drying,  damping,  calendering,  stretch- 
ing and  filling.  The  mixture  for  back 
filling  is  composed  of  wheat  starch, 
farina,  China  clay,  oleine  oil,  cocoanut 
oil,  bluing,  carbolic  acid  and  water. 
After  being  filled,  it  is  dried,  dampen- 
ed, calendered  and  made  up  as  re- 
quired. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The    j-arns     of  which      herringbone 


breaker  one  mixing  may  be  done  away 
with.  This  is  so  that  the  cotton  wiD 
be  allowed  to  expand  as  much  as  pos- 
sible before  being  put  through  the 
pickers.    An  opener  and 

THREE  PROCESSES  OF  PICKERS 

are  generally  used  for  both  lengths  of 
staple.  Follow  the  rules  already  giv- 
en in  connection  with  the  openers. 
At  the  breaker  picker  the  speed  of  a 
two-bladed  rigid  type  of  beater  is  1,- 
500  revolutions  per  minute  and  of  a 
three-bladed  beater  is  1,000  revolu- 
tions per  minute.  If  a  pin  beater  is 
used  the  speed  is  1,200  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  total  weight  of  the  lap  at 
the  front  of  this  picker  is  40  pounds. 
The  laps  are  put  up  at  the  intermediate 
picker  and  doubled  4  into  1.  The 
speed  of  a  two-bladed  beater  at  this 
machine  is  1,450  revolutions  per  min- 
ute, a  three-bladed  beater,  950  and  a 
pin  beater,  1,100  revolutions  per  min- 
ute. The  total  weight  of  a  lap  at  the 
front  of  this  machine  is  38  pounds  or 
a  14  ounce  lap  for  both  stocks.     These 


A  COTTOX  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


285 


laps  are  put  up  at  the  breaker  picker 
and  doubled  4  into  1.  At  this  picker 
the  cut  waste  laps  are  put  in  in  the 
proportion  of  three  laps  of  raw  stock 
to  one  lap  of  cut  waste,  the  waste  lap 
being  generally  inserted  between  the 
back  and  third  lap.  The  speed  of  this 
beater  is  1,400  revolutions  per  minute; 
for  two-bladed  beater,  925  revolutions 
per  minute;  and  1,050  revolutions  per 
minute  for  a  pin  beater.  The  total 
weight  of  the  lap  at  the  front  is  39 
pounds  or  a  16-ounce  lap  for  a  40-yard 
(in  length)  lap.  The  laps  are  next  put 
up 

AT  THE  CARD. 

This  card  should  have  a  licker-in  speed 
of  350  revolutions  per  minute.  The 
wire  used  should  be  110s  for  cylinder 
and  120s  for  doffer  and  top  flats.  The 
top  flats  should  make  one  complete 
revolution  every  45  minutes  and 
sJiould  be  looked  after  to  see  that  they 
are  properly  cleaned  and  ground. 
Grind  and  strip  and  set  as  per  instruc- 
tions given  in  a  previous  article  on  the 
same  length  of  staple.  The  weight  of 
the  sliver  at  the  front  should  be  45 
grains  per  yard  and  the  production  650 
pounds  per  week  of  60  hours.  The  cot- 
tons are  next  put  through  the  sliver  lap 
machine,  the  doublings  being  14  into  1 
and  the  weight  per  yard  of  lap  being 
290  grains  per  yard.  These  laps  are 
put  up  at  the  ribbon  lap  machine  and 
doubled  6  into  1,  the  weight  per  yard 
of  lap  being  275  grains. 

AT  THE  COMBER 
the  laps  are  doubled  6  into  1  and  the 
weight  per  yard  of  the  sliver  is  40 
grains  per  yard.  For  this  class  of 
goods  16  per  cent  of  waste  is  taken 
out.  Keep  the  leatl^er  top  rolls  in 
good  condition  and  well  varnished  and 
the  com'ber  free  from  dirt.  At  the 
drawing  frames  the  doublings  at  the 
breaker  are  8  into  1  and  at  the  finish- 
er, 6  into  1.  This  is  not  the  case  in 
all  mills,  as  the  number  of  doublings 
used  varies.  The  weight  per  yard  at 
the  finisher  drawing  is  70  grains.  This 
is  put  through  the  slubber  and  made 
into  .60  hank  roving.  The  slubber  rov- 
ing for  the  30s  and  35s  yarn  is  made 
into  2  hank  roving  at  the  intermediate 
fly  frame  and  6.50  at  the  fine  frame. 
The  hank  roving  for  the  48s  is  2.50  at 
the  intermediate  and  9.50  at  the  fine 
frame. 

THE  SIZING 
of  the  cotton  should  be  as  follows:  At 
pickers,  every  lap  and  a  variation  of 
not  more  than  one-half  a  pound  from 
standard  weight  allowed;  at  the  card 
once  a  week;  at  sliver  and  ribbon  lap 
once   a    day;    at   drawing   frame   four 


times  a  day;  at  slubber  once  a  week, 
at  intermediate  once  a  week;  and  at 
fine  frame  once  a  day. 

The  roving  for  30s  selvedge  yarn  is 
made  on  a  frame  having  a  6V^-inch 
traverse,  1 34-inch  diameter  of  ring, 
26.02  twist  per  inch  and  a  spindle 
speed  of  9,800  revolutions  per  minute; 
for  the  35s  the  same  conditions  exist 
except  that  a  1%-inch  diameter  ring  is 
used,  a  28.10  twist  per  inch  and  a  spin- 
dle speed  of  10,300  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  yarn  is  then  spooled  and 
warped  and  put  through  a  slasher.  The 
filling  yarn  may  be  either  mule  or 
ring  spun;  if  the  latter,  use  a  frame 
having  a  1^/4 -inch  diameter  ring,  5Vi- 
inch  traverse,  25.98  twist  per  inch  and 
a  spindle  speed  of  8,400  revolutions  per 
minute.  This  yarn  is  then  conditioned, 
after  which  it  is  ready  for  the  loom. 

Dyeing   Particulars. 
BRONZE. 

Five  per  cent  pyrol  bronze;  5  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;  2  per  cent  soda 
ash;  20  per  cent  salt. 

GREEN. 
Six  per  cent  pyrol  green  G;    6   per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;  2  per  cent  soda 
ash;  20  per  cent  salt. 
BLUE. 
Six  per  cent  pyrol  blue  B ;  6  per  cent 
sulphide  sodium;  2  per  cent  soda  ash; 
20  per  cent  salt. 

OLIVE. 
Two  per  cent  immedial  indone  B:  6 
per  cent  immedial  yellow  D;  V2  per 
cent  immedial  catechine  G;  9  per  cent 
sulphide  sodium;  2  per  cent  soda  ash; 
25  per  cent  salt. 

WINE. 
Eight  per  cent  diamine  Bordeaux  B; 
2  per  cent  sal  soda;  25  per  cent  salt. 
RED. 
Five  per  cent  diamine  fast  red  B  B; 
2  per  cent  sal  soda;   25  per  cent  salt. 
NAVY  BLUE. 
Eight  per  cent  katigen  indigo  B;    8 
per  cent  sulphide  sodium;   2  per  cent 
soda  ash;    30  per  cent  salt. 
SLATE. 
One  per  cent  thion  black  T  B;  2  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;  1  per  cent  soda 
ash;  10  per  cent  salt. 

SKY   BLUE. 
One  per  cent  diamine  sky  blue  F  F; 
1  per  cent  sal  soda;  10  per  cent  salt. 
SEA  GREEN. 
One-half  per  cent  immedial  green  B; 
1  per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  2  per  cent 
soda  ash;   10  per  cent  salt. 


:286 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


UNION  LINEN  LAWNS. 


These  fabrics,  as  the  name  implies, 
are  made  up  of  cotton  and  linen  yarns. 
The  cotton  in  most  cases  forms  the 
warp  and  the  linen  is  woven  in  as  fill- 
ing. 

Union  linen  lawns  are  plain  woven 
fabrics  made  in  various  textures  in  re- 
gard to  ends  and  picks  per  Inch,  and 
also  the  quality  and  counts  of  yarn. 

The  goods  are  used  for  various  pur- 
poses, principal  among  which  are  fur- 
niture coverings,  summer  outing  suits 
and  dusters.  The  goods,  when  used 
for  the  above  purposes,  are  usually  fin- 
ished without  bleaching.  The  cotton 
yarn  is  usually  dyed  to  match  the  col- 
or of  the  unfinished  linen  warp  or  fill- 
ing, as  the  case  may  be. 

The  fabric  as  used  for  household  pur- 
poses is  usually  finished  white  or 
tleached. 

CJ^^SSIFICATION  AND   ORIGIN. 

V\'oven  fabrics  may  be  divided  into 
three  classes,  generally  speaking,  and 
from  these  there  are  derived  all  the 
various  weaves  now  in  use,  with  the 
possible  exception  of  the  leno  weave, 
which  may  be  placed  in  a  class  sepa- 
rate from  the  three  foundation  weaves, 
to  wit,  the  plain  weave  or  cotton 
weave,'  second,  the  twill  weave,  and 
third,  the  satin  weave.  The  first- 
named  in  the  division  covers  a  great- 
er variety  of  fabrics  than  the  combin- 
ed number  of  the  latter  two,  the  weave 
in  connection  with  the  kind  and  qual- 
ity of  yarn  and  also  the  texture.  Not- 
withstanding that  there  may  be  sev- 
eral textures  in  any  particular  fabric, 
these  are  the  distinguishing  features 
that  characterize  the  wide  range  of 
cotton  fabrics. 

The  origin  of  the  name  is  derived 
sometimes  from  the  city  or  country 
in  which  the  fabric  was  first  made,  or 
from  the  nameof  the  maker;  or,  again, 
it  may  be  given  to  the  fabric  from  the 
nature  of  the  material  of  which  it  is 
made,  as,  for  example,  union  linen 
lawns;  the  name  lawn  implies  that  the 
labric  is  plain  woven. 

In 

THE  (CONSTRUCTION 
of  these  fabrics  there  is  considerable 
latitude  in  regard  to  ends  and  picks 
per  inch  and  counts  of  yarn.  Some 
grades  of  liner,  lawns  are  made  up  very 
firmly,  again  others  may  be  construct- 
•ed  rather  loosely. 

ANALYSIS. 
Width  of  warp  in  reed,     3S     inches; 


width  of  fabric,  finished,  36  inches; 
ends  per  inch,  finished,  60;  ends  in 
warp,  2,160;  ends  in  selvedges,  20;  to- 
tal, 2,180. 

Reed,  27%x2;  take-up  of  warp  dur- 
ing weaving  about  8  per  cent;  warp, 
1-lOs  cotton. 

Filling,  l-20s  linen,  300  yards  per 
hank;  56  picks. 

Analysis  of  a  coarser  grade  of  union 
linen  lawn:  width  of  warp  in  reed, 37% 
inches;  width  of  fabric,  finished,  36 
inches;  ends  per  inch,  finished,  52; 
ends  in  warp,  1,S72;  ends  in  selvedges. 
16;   total,  1,888. 

Reed,  25x2;  warp,  l-30s  cotton. 

Filling,  80s  linen,  300  yards  per 
hank:  50  picks  per  inch;  take-up  dur- 
ing weaving,  10  per  cent. 

Fig.  1.  weave. 

Fig.  2  drawing-in  draft. 


■aaaaDBD 
naaaDBDa 
aaaaaDBD 
DaaaDBDa 
BGaaaDaa 
□■aanaoa 
aaaaaaaa 


Fig.  1. 


nnannnna 
nDanaaan 
DDDDDann 
nnnaaDDn 
QonaDDDn 
naaDDDaa 
aanDDana 
aGDDaDna 


Fi£ 


WEAVING  AND  FINISHING. 

Fabrics  used  for  dress  goods,  that  is, 
outer  garments,  require  more  attention 
in  the  weaving  than  almost  any  other 
class  of  fabrics.  The  goods  should  be 
woven  faultlessly,  or,  if  the  fabric  has 
any  faults,  these  faults  must  be  mend- 
ed so  as  not  to  show  in  the  finished 
fabric;  otherwise  .the  goods  can  only 
be  sold  as  seconds  and  at  a  greatly  re- 
duced price;  consequently,  a  weaver 
has  charge  of  but  four  looms  on  plain 
woven  fabrics,  intended  for  dress  ma- 
terial. The  looms  used  for  these  goods 
may  be  plain  cam  looms,  roller  looms, 
or  clipper  looms,  running  at  from  120 
to  140  picks  per  minute.  The  goods, 
after  they  come  fi-om  the  loom,  are 
burled  and  mended,  then  boiled  off  if 
finished  without  bleaching,  or  they 
may  be  bleached,  then  pressed,  made 
up  into  laps  and  are  then  ready  for 
shipment. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Union  linen  lawn  is  composed  of  two 
fibres,  linen  and  cotton,  the  warp  yam 
being  cotton  and  the  filling  yarn  linen. 
Several  grades  of  this  fabric  are  made, 
two  of  which  are  taken  for  example. 
In  these  two  the  warp  yarn  is  140s  for 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


287 


the  fine  aud  l-30s  for  the  coarser  fab- 
ric. These  yarns  are  made  in  the 
same  division  of  mills  and,  in  fact,  the 
same  mills  make  the  two  classes  of 
fabric.  Where  this  is  the  case, 

THE  DIFFERENT  PROCESSES 
weights  per  yard,  etc.,  are  the  same 
up  to  a  certain  point.  We  will  consid- 
er the  two  counts  to  be  made  of  the 
same  staple  and  grade  of  cotton,  which 
would  be  1  5-16-inch  staple  peeler 
cotton.  The  bales  should  be  opened, 
stapled  and  graded  before  being 
put  into  the  mixing,  which  may  be 
done  either  by  hand  or  by  machine,that 
done  by  the  bale  breaker  being  better 
because  it  opens  the  cotton  more  thor- 
oughly. The  good  sliver  from  the  ma- 
chines up  to  the  slubber  is  mixed  in  at 
this  point  either  as  it  is  collected,  or, 
as  is  often  done,  on  mixing  days.  The 
cotton  is  put  through  three  processes 
of  picking  and  an  opener. 

AT  THE  OPENER 
the  general  instructions  given  in  pre- 
vious articles  should  be  followed.  At 
the  breaker  picker  the  type  of  beater 
used  may  be  either  a  pin  or  3-bladed 
rigid  type.  The  speed  of  the  pin  beat- 
er is  1,200  revolutions  per  minute  and 
of  the  three-bladed  type  1,000  revolu-. 
tions  per  minute.  The  weight  of  the 
lap  at  the  front  of  this  machine  is  40 
pounds  or  a  16-ounce  lap.  At  the  in- 
termediate picker  the  speed  of  a  three- 
bladed  beater  is  975  revolutions  per 
minute,  the  doublings  being  4  into  1. 
The  total  weight  of  lap  at  the  front  of 
this  machine  is  371/2  pounds  or  15 
ounces  per  yard.  At  the  finisher  pick- 
er the  doubling  is  5  into  1.  The  speed 
of  a  two-bladed  rigid  type  of  beater  is 
1,425  revolutions  per  minute.  The  to- 
tal weight  of  a  40-yard  lap  is  33  pounds 
or  a  13-ounce  lap.  At  this  machine 
the  cut  roving  waste  laps  are  mixed  in 
the  proportion  of  three  laps  of  good 
cotton  to  one  lap  of  cut  waste.     It  is 

GENERALLY  THE  CUSTOM 
to  prepare  these  laps  at  the  intermedi- 
ate picker.  At  the  card  the  draft 
should  not  exceed  100  and  the  speed  of 
the  licker-in  is  350  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  wire  fillet  used  should  be 
that  used  for  medium  counts  of  yarn, 
or  No.  110s  for  cylinders  and  No.  120s 
for  doffer  and  top  flats.  The  speed  of 
the  top  fiats  (110  to  set)  should  be  one 
complete  revolution  every  50  minutes. 
The  weight  of  the  end  sliver  at  the 
front  should  be  45  grains  per  yard  and 
the  production  650  pounds  per  week  of 
60  hours.  Strip  cards  three  times  a 
day  and  grind  once  every  three  weeks. 
After  grinding,  set  all  important  parts. 
Clean  out  fiy  at  regular  intervals  for 


this  class  of  work,  it  being  done  twice 
a  day.  Watch  the  strips  from  the 
top  flats  to  see  how  the  flats  are 
working.    Always  have  plenty  of 

SPARE  BANDS 
on  hand  so  that  if  one  breaks,  another 
may  be  put  on  without  loss  of  time. 
Always  see  that  the  brackets  used  for 
the  stripping  brush  are  properly  set 
for  both  doffer  and  cylinder  and  also 
see  that  they  are  properly  stripped  by 
the  card  attendants,  for  too  often  are 
they  only  half  stripped  if  they  are  not 
watched.  The  yarn  used  for  this  class 
of  goods  is  combed  and  at  the  sliver 
lap  the  weight  per  yard  is  290  grains, 
the  doublings  being  14  into  one.  At 
the  ribbon  lap  the  doublings  are  6  in- 
to 1  and  the  weight  of  a  yard  of  lap  is 
270  grains  per  yard. 

AT  THE  COMBER 
the  doublings  are  6  into  1  and  16  per 
cent  of  waste  is  taken  out.  The  weight 
of  the  sliver  at  the  coiler  is  50  grains 
per  yard.  Follow  the  particulars  for 
setting,  timing  and  varnishing  the 
rolls  as  given  in  a  previous  article. 
The  doublings  at  the  breaker  are  8  in- 
to 1,  two  processes  of  drawing  being 
used.  The  weight  per  yard  at  the 
breaker  drawing  is  90  grains  per  yard. 
At  the  finisher  drawing  the  doubling 
is  6  into  1  and  the  weight  per  yard  is 
70  grains.  At  the  slubber  the  drawing 
sliver  is  made  into  .60  hank  roving. 
The  yarn  is  next  put  through  two  proc- 
esses of  speeders  or  fly  frames.  At  the 
first  intermediate  the  hank  roving  is 
2  and  at  the  second  or  finishing  speed- 
er the  hank  roving  is  6  for  30s  yarn, 
and  S  hank  for  40s  yarn.  The  roving 
is  next  taken  to 

THE  SPINNING  ROOM 
and  spun  into  30s  on  a  frame  having 
a  61/^-inch  traverse,  1%-inch  diameter 
ring,  26.02  twist  per  inch  and  a  spindle 
speed  of  9,800  revolutions  per  minute. 
For  spinning  40s.  a  frame  with  a  spin- 
dle speed  of  10,000  revolutions  per  min- 
ute, 28.46  twist  per  inch;  1%-inch  di- 
ameter ring  and  6%-inch  traverse,  is 
used.  After  being  spun,  the  yarn  is 
spooled  and  then  run  on  a  beam.  Sev- 
eral of  these  beams  are  put  up  at  the 
back  of  the  slasher  and  after  being 
slashed  are  run  on  a  beam  at  the 
front. 


Dyeing   Particulars. 
OLIVE. 
Five  per  cent  pyrol  olive  G;   5  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;  2  per  cent  soda 
ash;    20  per  cent  salt. 
BRONZE. 
Five  per  cent  pyrol  bronze  G;  5  per 


288 


A    COTTOX   FABRICS   GLOSSARY. 


cent  sulphide  sodium;  2  per  cent  soda 
ash;    20  per  cent  salt. 
BLACK. 
Ten    per    cent    thiogene    black    M 
cone;    10   per   cent  sulphide   sodium; 
2  per  cent  soda  ash;  25  per  cent  salt. 
SLATE. 
One  per  cent  thion  black  T  B  C;  1 
per  cent  sulphide  sodium;   1  per  cent 
soda  ash;  10  per  cent  salt. 
ECRU. 
Three-quarters  per  cent  thion  brown 
G;   1  per  cent  sulphide  sodium;   1  per 
cent  soda  ash;   10  per  cent  salt. 
RED. 
Six  per  cent  diamine  fast  red  B  B; 
2  per  cent  sal  soda;  25  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's. 

BROWN. 

Five  per  cent  immedlal  brown  B;  5 
per  cent  immedial  cutch  O;  10  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;  3  per  cent  soda 
ash;  30  per  cent  salt. 

SKY  BLUE. 

One  and  one-half  per  cent  thion  blue 
B  cone;  1%  per  cent  sulphide  sodi- 
um; 1  per  cent  soda  ash;  20  per  cent 
salt.  Develop  with  peroxide  of  hydro- 
*^en, 

NAVY  BLUE. 

Eight  per  cent  thion  navy  blue  R; 
8  per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  2  per 
cent  soda  ash;  20  per  cent  salt.  De- 
velop with  peroxide  of  sodium. 


and  the     - — 
1 


SATIN  CHECKS, 


Satin  checks,  so-called,  derive  their 
name  from  the  appearance  of  the  pat- 
tern, which  consists  of  variable  block 
effects,  usually  equal  in  size  in  the 
same  piece,  on  the  plain  weave  basis. 

Some  of  the  larger  effects  resemble 
checkerboards  and  are  known  as  such. 
They  are  also  known  as  dice  checks. 

A  satin  check  fabric  made  in  Eng- 
land for  the  northwestern  Africa  ex- 
port trade  is  similar  in  construction 
and  finish  to  the  "herringbone"  fabric, 
considered  in  a  preceding  article  and 
the  data  given  there  in  connection 
with  these  items  will  also  apply  here. 

The  weave  principle  upon  which  the 
cloth  has  been  constructed  may  be  seen 
in  Fig.  1,  which  is  composed  of  warp 
flush  and  filling  flush  weaves  arranged 
on  the  plain  cloth  base,  four  square  sec- 
tions completing  the  weave.  In  this 
case  the  complete  weave  is  on  48x48, 


each  section  being  on  24x24.     The  base 
weaves  used  are  the    1— . 

o 

twills. 

The  object  in  alternating  blocks  of 
warp  flush  weaves  with  blocks  of  fill- 
mg  flush  weaves  is  to  produce  a  cloth 
whereon  the  pattern  seems  to  appear 
stronger  when  viewed  in  certain  direc- 
tions than  when  viewed  in  others,  with 
two  weaves  that  have  the  same  struc- 
ture, although  differing  in  appearance. 
This  principle  is  developed  on  an  ex- 
tended scale  in  white  damask  table- 
cloths. 

The  shadow    effect    seen    in      these 


aBBHaaDDCDB 

■oaaaaaui-Daa 
■■□■■■aaaajQ 

■■nnGaaflDQaD 
■■■aaaaoaDDO 
DDGo  BaaHBa 

DaGaBuBOBBBB 
DDDBDDBBaBBB 

aaaanDBBBDBB 
uaDaDaaaaBDa 
aaDaDaBBBBaa 


i  times  4  t 

Fig.  1. 


Fig.  2. 


naBBBBDaaana 

BDaaaaDaaaaa 

BBaaaaaaaaaa 

aaBDaaaaaDaa 

aaaaDBaaaDaD 

aaaaanaoaDDa 

aaaanaDaaaaa 

aaaaaaaaaaaa 

nunaGDaaaaaa 

DDananaaaDaa 

DaaanDaaaaaa 

BDaDGaaaaaan 

4d  picks  in  repeat 

Fig.  3. 

aaaaaanaaoDQ 

aaaaaaaaaaaa 

aaaaaaaaaaaa 

aaaaaaaaaaaa 

aaaaaaaaaaaa 

aaaaaaaaaaaa 

aaaaaaaaaaaa 

aaaaaaaaaaaa 

aaaaaaaaaaaa 

aaaaaaaaaaaa 

aaaaaaaaaaaa 

aaaaaaaaaaaa 

4  times     4  timea 

Fig.  4. 

goods  is  an  optical  illusion,  due  to  the 
reflection  of  the  light  after  it  falls  on 
the  filling  being  at  a  different  angle 
to  that  reflected  from  the  warp,  both 
being  viewed  from  the  same  position. 
The  larger  the  section  and  the  greater 
the  proportion  of  one  yarn  as  com- 
pared to  the  other  in  the  same,  the 
more  lustrous  will  be  the  general  ap- 
pearance of  the  goods. 

Fig.  2  shows  the  harness  draft  and 
Fig.   3  the  chain  draft    for  producing 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


289 


the  weave.  Fig.  2  is  known  as  a  sec- 
tional drawing-in  draft. 

One  of  the  principal  points  to  be 
noted  in  the  construction  of  these 
weaves  is  to  make  the  warp  floats  of 
each  section  oppose  the  filling  floats  of 
the  adjoining  sections,  both  warp  way 
and  filling  way.  If  this  is  not  done, 
a  ragged  or  indistinct  pattern  will  re- 
sult, in  addition  to  the  cloth  not  hav- 
ing as  firm  a  feel. 

Another  point  Is  that  it  is  advisa. 


DaBBDMaaDOBODDB 

■■OBBBaBOBDaoaaa 

BaBBMaBBDGBDDDBD 
BBBDBBBaBGCDBDDa 
GBBBOBBBaCCBDOCB 
BBDBBBDBDBnODBnn 
BOBBBDMB  aBGDaBD 
BBBOBBB  □BDaOBDaa 
□DOBaDDBCBBBQBBB 
gBDOaBODBBDBBBDB 
DOBDDaBDBOBBBDBB 
BgaOBanDBBBCBBBQ 

DananaDBDBBBaBBB 
OBganBaaBBaBBBOB 

DDBDaaBDBQBBBaBB 

■aaaaaaDBBBDBBBa 


Fig.  5. 


DBBBaaaaaDGaDDDB 

BgBBBGBBQGBaaDaa 

BBBaBBBGBGaaBaaa 

BBGBBBDBaBGGDBGG 
GBBBGBBBGGGBGGOB 
BGBBBGBBGGBQOGBD 
BBBGBBBOBl  OGBaOG 
BBGBBBQBGBGGGBGG 
GGBGGGBGBaBBBQBB 
GGGBGGGBGBBBGBBB 
GBGQDBGGaBGBBBUB 
BGGGBDGGBBBGBBBG 
GGBGDGBDBDBBBGBB 
GGaBGGGBGBBBGBBB 
GBGGGBGGBBDBBBGB 
BGGGBGaDBBBQBBBD 


Fi«.  6. 


BBBBBnBBDnBGGnan 
CBBBBBBBGDaGGGGB 
BBBGBBBBGDGGBaaa 
BBBBBBOBGBDaQDaa 
BGBBBBaBDGGDGQBn 
■BnDBBBGGaBGGaa 
BBBBBBBGBDDaQaan 
BaGBBBBBGOGGGBGD 

DDaGGDaGBaaaaGBB 


IGI 


■Gl 


GnannnDL 

DGG    ■G'^Gi 
GBDGGDQGI 

aDGGGGBGI 

GGGBGGQGBBBBGBBB 
BGGGGGGGBBBBBBBG 
GGGGGBGGBBGBBBBB 

Fig.  7. 


■Gl 


iBBGnGGGGGB 
IBBCGGGBGGn 
IGBGBGGCGGa 

iBBoaacrGBa 
iBBGaGBGaaa 

IBOBOGGGGGn 
■■UHBBBBGGaGCBGa 
BBBBBCBBGGBGGaaG 
QGGGGBGGBBGBBBBB 
GGBGGGGOBBBBBGBB 
OGGGGGGBGBBBBBBB 
GGGGBGGGBBBGBBBB 
GaGGGGGGBBBBBBDB 
GGGGGGBGBGBBBBBB 
OGGBaGGGBBBBGBBB 
BGGGGGDCBBBBBBBG 

Flp.  8 

ble  to  arrange  the  base  weaves  in  such 
positions  that  although  there  are  four 
sections  in  each  repeat  of  the  weave, 
the  two  filling  flush  sections  will  be  ex- 
actly alike  and  the  two  warp  sections 
alike,  whenever  possible. 

This  may  perhaps  be  better  under- 
stood by  reference  to  Figs.  1  and  4.  Fig. 
4,  although  composed  of  the  same  base 
weaves  as  Fig.  1,  would  not  make  as 
clean  and  even  an  appearance  in  the 
cloth  as  the  latter. 


A  satin  check  made  with  Fig.  5  would 
be  preferable  to  one  made  with  Fig.  6. 
other  conditions  being  equal.  Both  of 
these  weaves  are  built  up  from  broken 
crow  weave  bases  and  cut  on  all  sides. 

Weave  Fig.  7  would  be  preferable  to 
weave  Fig.  8.     Both  are  made  from  the 
same  8-end  satin  weave  bases,  started 
in  different  relative  positions. 
LOOM  REQUIRED. 

Being  woven  white  and  with  one 
count  of  filling  only,  a  single  box  dobby 
loom  is  generally  used  when  weaving 
these  goods.  The  two  base  weaves,  one 
warp  flush  and  the  other  filling  flush.are 
seldom  made  on  more  than  8  ends  and 
8  picks  each,  therefore  a  16-harnes3 
dobby,  with  a  selvedge  motion  extra,  is 
large  enough  to  allow  ample  scope  for 
producing  a  variety  of  patterns.  An 
18  or  20  harness  dobby  should  be  used 
if  there  is  no  selvedge  motion  on  the 
loom. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

As  the  fabric  considered  is  similar 
in  construction  and  finish  to  that  de- 
scribed under  "Herringbone  Stripes," 
the  carding  and  spinning  data  need  not 
be   repeated. 

Dyeing   Particulars. 
BRONZE. 

Five  per  cent  pyrol  bronze;  5  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;  2  per  cent  soda 
ash;  20  per  cent  salt. 

GREEN. 
Six  per  cent  pyrol  green  G;   6  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;  2  per  cent  soda 
ash;    20  per  cent  salt. 

BLUE. 

Six  per   cent   pyrol   blue   B;    6   per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;  2  per  cent  soda 
ash;   20  per  cent  salt. 
OLIVE. 

Two  per  cent  immedial  indone  B;  6 
per  cent  immedial  yellow  D;  Yz  per 
cent  immedial  catechine  G;  9  per  cent 
sulphide  sodium;  2  per  cent  soda  ash; 
25  per  cent  salt. 

WINE. 
Eight    per    cent    diamine   Bordeaux 
B;    2  per  cent  sal  soda;   25   per  cent 
salt. 

RED. 
Five  per  cent  diamine  fast  red  B  B; 
2  per  cent  sal  soda;  25  per  cent  salt. 
NAVY  BLUE. 
Eight  per  cent  katigen  indigo  B;   8 
per  cent  sulphide  sodium;   2  per  cent 
soda  ash;   30  per  cent  salt. 
SLATE. 
One  per  cent  thion  black  T  B;  2  per 


290 


A    COTTON   FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


cent  sulphide  sodium;  1  per  cent  soda 
ash;  10  per  cent  salt. 

SKY  BLUE. 
One  per  cent  diamine  sky  blue  F  F; 
1  per  cent  sal  soda;  10  per  cent  salt. 
SEA  GREEN. 
One-half   per   cent   immedial    green 
B;  1  per  cent  sodium  sulphide;   2  per 
cent  soda  ash;  10  per  cent  salt. 


NANKEEN,  or  NANKIN, 


Nankeen,  or  nankin,  pronounced 
nan-ken,  is  a  name  given  to  a  class  of 
fabrics  woven  with  the  plain  weave, 
the  distinguishing  effect  of  which  is 
their  peculiar  yellowish  brown  color. 
This  color  is  natural  to  the  cotton  of 
which  they  are  made,  the  religiosum 
variety  of  the  gossypium  herbaceum 
class. 

The  goods  are  worn  by  Chinese  peo- 
ple in  all  parts  of  the  world. 

The  original  nankeen  fabric  derived 
Its  name  from  Nanking,  the  ancient 
Chinese  city,  now  known  as  the  "south- 
ern capital,"  being  first  constructed 
there  from  a  native  cotton.  The 
PURE  NANKEEN  FABRIC 
is  finished  and  worn  in  the  natural  col- 
or and  is  of  Chinese  manufacture.  The 
raw  cotton  is  rough,  short  and  hard 
to  work,  so  much  so  that  the  supply 
of  cotton  of  this  type  and  color  grown 
is  not  enough  to  supply  the  demand  for 
the  woven  goods.  For  the  last  half 
century  or  more  large  quantities  of  so- 
called  nankeen  fabrics  of  British  man- 
ufacture have  been,  and  are  being  to- 
day, exported  to  China,  the  principal 
market  for  the  same  being  at  Canton. 
These  goods  are  woven  white  and  sub- 
sequently dyed  the  required  color,  dy- 
ers being  able  to  imitate  the  qualities 
of  the  original  nankeen  color  in  all  re- 
spects. 

KINO, 
pronounced  ke-no,   was     one     of     the 
drugs  formerly  used  for  giving  tne  nan- 
keen color.     Its  chief  component  part 
is  tannic   acid. 

Nankeen  fabrics,  deriving  their 
name  more  particularly  from  their  pe- 
culiar color,  are  made  to  vary  to  some 
extent  in  counts  of  yarns  and  construc- 
tions of  cloth,  although  being  kept  to 
medium  counts  and  weights. 

A  characteristic  fabric  is  made  as 
follows:  Counts  of  warp,  26s;  counts 
of  filling,  22s;  ends  per  inch,  68;  picks 
per  inch,  64;  width,  27  inches  finished. 

At  the  present  time  nankeen  fabrics 


are  not  necessarily  those  made  exclu- 
sively of  cotton.  A  sample  under  con- 
sideration is  made  from  silk  scrapings 
or  waste  and  cotton  warp,  mixed  before 
going  through  the  preparing  machines, 
and  silk  waste  filling.  The  mixed  fibres 
in  the  warp  appear  later  in  the  same 
yarn,  the  yarn  being  single  spun.  The 
fabric  is  very  uneven,  more  so  in  the 
filling  than  in  the  warp,  but  quite  un- 
even in  both. 

LOOM  REQUIRED. 

Like  other  plain  cloths,  a  light,  quick 
running  plain  cam  loom  is  used  for 
their  production.  Woven  a  solid  col- 
or, one  warp  and  one  shuttle  only  are 
required.  The  ends  are  reeded  two  in 
a  dent  throughout. 

FINISHING. 

Very  little  finishing  is  required  for 
the  pure  goods.  After  being  burled 
and  brushed  they  are  sheared  or 
singed,  or  both,  crabbed,  washed 
dried,  and  made  up  as  required. 

Imitation  nankeens  in  addition  to 
the  above  are  subjected  to  the  process 
of  dyeing. 

Carding  and  Spinning   Particulars. 

For  carding  and  spinning  particu- 
lars, see  article  on  "Tartan  Plaids," 
the  counts  of  yarns  for  nankeen  being, 
similar  to  those  explained  in  said  ar- 
ticle. 


Dyeing  Particulars. 

This  class  of  goods  is  dyed  on  the 
gigger  dyeing  machine  in  the  open 
width.  The  method  of  dyeing  is  to 
take  the  thoroughly  boiled  and  wet  out 
goods  and  roll  smoothly  on  the  first 
roll  of  the  gigger.  Sew  the  leaders  on 
with  smooth,  flat  seams,  then  fill  the 
machine  with  water  about  six  inches 
above  the  inside  rolls;  heat  to  the  re- 
quired temperature  and  add  V4,  to  14  of 
the  dissolved  dye  (for  light  shades  it  is 
best  to  add  the  color  in  four  portions; 
for  medium  or  dark  shades,  the  dye 
may  be  added  in  two  portions).  Then 
start  the  machine  and  pass  the  cloth 
through  the  liquor  on  to  the  opposite 
roll,  add  more  of  the  dye  and  return; 
repeat  until  shade  desired  is  produced. 

A  fine  nankeen  shade  may  be  dyed 
with  the  following  dyes: 

No.  1.  Dye  with  3  per  cent  extract 
fustic;  3  per  cent  alum.  Boil  together 
and  add  to  dye  bath  in  four  portions, 
dyeing  at  120  degrees  F. 

No.  2.  Dye  with  1-10  per  cent  diam 
fast  yellow  B;  0.08  per  cent  diam  cate- 
chine  G;  0.015  per  cent  diam  catechine 
B:  1  per  cent  soda;  2  per  cent  soap. 
Start  dyeing  at  100  degrees  F.,  heating. 


A  COTTOX  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


291 


slowly  to  180  degrees  F.,  then  add  5 
per  cent  Glauber's  salts  in  two  portions 
and  run  to  shade. 

No.  3.  Dye  with  2  per  cent  immedial 
orange  C;  1  per  cent  katigen  brown 
G  G;  3  per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  2  per 
cent  Turkey  red  oil.  Start  dyeing  at 
100  degrees  F.,  heat  to  180  degrees  F. 
slowly,  and  run  to  shade. 


MUSLIN -Fonndatlon  Mnslin. 


Foundation  muslin  is  a  fabric  used 
to  impart  stiffness  to  parts  of  gar- 
ments, principally  light-weight  dresses 
of  lawn  or  goods  of  similar  character 
used  for  graduation  and  other  purposes. 
It  is  loosely  woven  and  of  very  light 
weight.  The  requisite  body  is  impart- 
ed to  it  in  the  finishing  process  by  one 
or  more  stiffening  ingredients. 

The  cloth  is  woven  plain.  The  ends 
are  drawn  single  through  the  heddlefe 
and  reeded  two  in  each  dent,  with  the 
possible  exception  of  the  selvedge 
ends. 

The  analysis  of  a  characteristic  foun- 
dation muslin  shows  the  following  da- 
ta: Ends  per  inch,  72;  picks  per  inch, 
68;  counts  of  warp,  110;  counts  of  fill- 
ing, 120;  finished  width,  SlYz  inches; 
weight,  20  yai'ds  per  pound.  The  sel- 
vedges consist  of  12  ends  of  60s  yarn 
on  each  side,  reeded  3  ends  per  dent. 
The  counts  of  yarns  here  stated  are  as 
found  in  the  finished  cloth.  All  the 
yarns  are  somewhat  hard  twisted  and 
are  free  from  loose  fibres. 

CALCULATIONS. 

311/^  inches  times  36  equals  1,134  dents 
occupied  by  the  warp;  1,134  minus  8 
for  selvedges  equals  1,126  dents;  1,126 
times  2  equals  2,252  ends  of  110s  warp; 
8  times  3  equals  24  ends  of  60s  warp; 
2,276,   total   ends. 

To  find  weight  of  warp  in  100  yards 
of  cloth,  assuming  10  per  cent  contrac- 
tion in  length  from  warp  to  cloth  of 
the  fine  yarn  and  5  per  cent  contrac- 
tion of  the  coarse  yarn: 


2,252  X  110  (length) 
110  (counts)  X  S40 
24  z  105 
60  X  840 


=  2,6S1    pounds    of    110s    warp. 


,05   pound   of   60s   warp. 


2.681    pounds   110s. 
.05     pound   60s. 

2.731    pounds,    total    weight  of   warp. 

The  60s  warp  has  been  considered  as 
having  been  run  from  spools,  separate 
from  the  main  warp. 


=  2.261   lbs.   flUlng. 


To  find  weight  of  filling  in  luO  yards 
of  cloth: 

72  (sley)  —  1  =  71. 

71    divided    by   2.1    (constant)    =    83.82    dents   per 
Inch  In   reed. 
1,134  divided  by  33.82  =  33.53  In.,  width  in  reed. 

68  (picks)  X  33.53  x  100  (length) 

120  (counts)  X  840 

In  the  preceding  calculation  the  gray 
and  finished  widths  of  che  cloth  have 
been  assumed  to  be  equal,  the  cloth 
having  been  stretched  but  little,  and 
tentered  to  the  full  width,  in  the  proc- 
ess of  finishing.  The  finished  width  of 
most  fabrics  is  less  than  the  loom  or 
gray  cloth  width,  requiring  that  the 
difference  between  them  be  taken  into 
consideration  when  ascertaining  the 
amount  of  filling  required. 

To  find  number  of  yards  per  pound: 

2.731  pounds  warp. 
2.261  pounds   filling. 

4.992  pounds,  total  weight. 
100   divided   by   4.992   =    say,    20   yards   per  poand. 

LOOM    REQUIRED. 

A  light,  fast  running,  single  box  cam 
loom  is  preferable  for  these  goods,  the 
ends  being  drawn  through  twine  har- 
nesses on  account  of  the  large  num- 
ber of  ends  and  picks  per  inch  and  fine 
yarn.  Being  a  very  light  sheer  fabric, 
considerable  care  has  to  be  taken  with 
it  in  weaving  to  prevent  misweaves  of 
all  kinds,  particularly  thick  and  thin 
places,  and  broken  ends  and  picks. 
FINISHING. 

This  process  is  really  the  one  which 
makes  the  characteristic  qualities  of 
foundation  muslin  as  distinct  from 
other  plain  woven  goods.  A  fabric  of 
the  construction  mentioned,  being  sim- 
ilar in  all  respects  except  in  the  finish, 
would  not  be  known  by  the  same  name 
if  finished  differently.  In  fact,  many 
of  the  cotton  fabrics  derive  their  name 
from  the  finishing  process  to  which 
they  have  been  subjected,  irrespective 
of  the  construction  of  the  cloths.  The 
purpose  for  which  it  is  to  be  used  de- 
termines, to  a  more  or  less  degree,  the 
construction  and  quality  of  plain  wov- 
en cloths. 

Foundation  muslins  are  usually  wov- 
en in  natural  color,  after  which  they 
are  bleached  and  finished  white,  some- 
what as  follows:  Burl,  singe,  bleach, 
size  with  gum  or  gum  "tragasol,"  con- 
dition, calender  and  make  up. 

When  required  in  colors,  the  goods 
are  dyed  in  the  piece. 

Dyeing  Particulars. 
BLACK. 
Eight  per  cent  union  black  S;  1  per 
cent,   diamine   fast   yellow  A;    30   per 


292 


A    COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


cent  Glauber's;  2  per  cent  sal  soda; 
2  per  cent  soap.  Top  with  alizarine 
black  4  B. 

SEA   GREEN. 

One-half  per  cent  diamine  black  H 
W;  4  ounces  diamine  fast  yellow  B; 
topped  with  new  methylene  blue  N, 
new  phosphine  G. 

For  10  gallons  dye  liquor:  6  ounces 
soap;  14  ounce  sal  soda;  3  ounces 
phosphate  soda. 

NAVY  BLUE. 

Three  per  cent  diamine  dark  blue 
B;  1  per  cent  diamine  brilliant  blue 
G;  topped  with  new  methylene  blue  N 
X;  metaphenylene  blue  B;  indigo 
blue  N. 

PEARL. 

Two  ounces  diamine  gray  G;  1-16 
ounce  diamine  brown  M;  topped  with 
aniline  gray  B. 

SLATE. 

Ten  ounces  diamine  gray  G;  Vs 
ounce  diamine  brown  M;  topped  with 
cyanol  extra;   orange  extra. 

LIGHT   MAUVE. 

One  ounce  diamine  violet  N;  1^ 
ounce  diamine  brilliant  blue  G; 
topped  with  methyl  violet  B  I. 

VIOLET. 

One  per  cent  diamine  violet  N;  % 
per  cent  diamine  brilliant  blue  G; 
topped  with  methyl  violet  B  I. 

PINK. 

Two  per  cent  diamine  rose  B  D; 
topped  with  rhodamine  G. 

SKY   BLUE. 

Four  ounces  diamine  sky  blue  F  F; 
topped  with  cyanol  extra. 

LIGHT  BROWN. 
One  per  cent  diamine  brown  B;   % 
per  cent   diamine    yellow   B;    topped 
with  Bismarck  brown  F  F;  thioflavine 
T. 

MYRTLE  GREEN. 
Two  per  cent  diamine  black  H  W;  2 
per  cent  diamine  green  B;  1  per  cent 
diamine  fast  yellow  B;  topped  with 
brilliant  green;  new  methylene  blue 
N. 

CREAM. 
One-quarter  ounce  diamine  gold;   % 
ounce   diamine  orange  B;    1-16  ounce 
diamine  fast  yellow  B. 
STEEL. 
One-eighth  ounce  diamine  gray  G; 
topped   with     cyanol    extra;      aniline 
gray  B. 


SILENCE  CLOTH-Filling  Backed 

Silence  cloth,  or  table  felting,  is  a 
heavy  cotton  fabric  used  to  cover  the 
table,  under  the  linen  cloth,  for  the 
purpose  of  preventing  damage  to  the 
finish  of  the  table  and  to  make  the 
cloth  look  whiter. 

Standard  widths  of  these  goods  are 
54  and  64  inches. 

In  order  to  make  heavy,  thick,  firm 
fabrics  it  becomes  necessary  to  depart 
from  single  cloth  structures  and  inter- 
lace the  yarns  on  one  or  other  of  the 
compound  weave  principles,  such  as 
backed,  double  or  heavier  ply  cloths. 
In  these  fabrics  some  of  the  yarns, 
while  forming  part  of  the  structure, 
may  appear  only  in  the  centre  or  the 
back,  not  showing  on  the  face. 

THE  SIMPLEST  FORM 
of  these  is  either  a    warp-backed     or 
filling-backed  fabric,    the     former     of 
which  was  shown  in    the    article    on 
"Cotton    Cassimeres." 

Filling-backed  fabrics,  especially 
those  of  the  reversible  type,  i.  e.,  those 


Fig.  1. 

with  the  face  and  back  similar,  that 
are  made  with  filling  fiush  weaves,  are 
excellently  adapted  for  making  silence 
cloths,  because  a  heavy  nap  is  required 
on  both  sides  of  the  fabric  and  this 
can  be  obtained  best  by  using  soft 
yarn.  The  nap  is  obtained  principal- 
ly with  the  filling  yarns,  which  are 
soft  and  coarse,  as  warp  yarn  must 
have  considerably  more  twist  than  is 
required  for  filling  in  order  that  it  may 
withstand  the  wear  and  tear  of  the 
movements  caused  by  the  heddles  and 
reed  during  weaving. 

Fig.  1  shows  a  weave  for  a  filling- 
backed   fabric  with   a    — ^      twill   on 

each  side.  Marks  s  represent  the  face 
weave;  solid  type  represents  the  back 
weave. 

A  cloth  woven  with  this  design 
would  show  the  warp  on  both  sides, 
when  in  the  gray,  but  only  one-half  of 
the  filling  on  each  side. 

The  individualities  of  the  yams  are 
lost  in  the  finishing  process;  in  silence 
cloths,  therefore,  such  a  cloth,  if  woven 
with  Fig.  1.  picked  one  pick  white  and 
one  pick  color,  would  have  a  white  sur- 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


293 


face  on  one  side  and  a  colored  one  on 
the  other.  As  the  loose  fibres  of  the 
filling  would  practically  cover  the 
warp,  the  color  of  the  latter  would  be 
of  little  consequence.  On  the  score  of 
economy  it  would  be  best  to  have  it 
white. 

THE  ANALYSIS 
of  a  silence  cloth,  before  finishing, 
shows  it  to  have  been  constructed  as 
follows:  Ends  per  inch.  68;  picks  per 
inch,  40  (20  on  the  face  and  20  on  the 
back);  warp  counts,  11. G,  probably  in- 
tended for  11.5;  filling  counts,  2%; 
width,  58  inches;  weight,  1,45  pounds 
per  yard;  weave.  Fig,  1.  This  cloth 
would  finish  54  inches. 

The  warp  has  contracted  18  per  cent 
in  length.  The  filling  lies  straight, 
showing  little,  if  any,  shrinkage  from 
loom  to  cloth.  It  is  soft-twisted,  con- 
taining but  five  turns  per  inch. 

Very  heavy  silence  cloths  are  con- 
structed on  the  doi'blo  or  higher  ply 
cloth  principles. 

LOOM   REQUIRED. 

For  weaving  filling  backed  silence 
cloths  a  heavy  loom  is  required.  Al- 
though they  may  be  woven  on  cam 
looms,  a  dobby  would  be  preferable,  un- 
less it  was  certain  that  the  same  pat- 
tern would  be  run  on  the  loom  contin- 
ually. One  warp  and  one  shuttle  only 
are  required.  On  account  of  the  coarse 
filling  and  the  width  of  the  cloth,  the 
shuttles  should  be  large. 
FINISHING. 

The  processes  of  bleaching  and  nap- 
ping constitute  practically  all  the  fin- 
ishing these  goods  receive,  being  wov- 
en and  finished  white. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Silence  cloth  is  made  up  of  yarns 
which  are  made  in  the  first  division  of 
mills,  as  given  in  a  previous  article. 
The  counts  of  yarn  vary  according  to 
the  weight  of  the  cloth  and  in  the 
sample  that  has  been  taken  for  de- 
scription are  as  follows,  llV^s  for  fill- 
ing and  2,75s  for  warp.  These  yarns 
are  soft  twisted  to  allow  them  to  be 
easily  brushed  so  as  to  cause  a  short, 
soft  nap.  The  yarns  are  made  of  short 
stock,  but  as  a  general  rule  waste  (ex- 
cept cut  roving  waste)  does  not  enter 
into  the  mixing.  The  staple  used  would 
be  about  %  to  %  inch  in  length.  The 
mixing  should  be  large  and  at  each 
mixing  the  cut  roving  waste  laps 
should  be  mixed  in.  Mixing  for  this 
class  of  goods  is  done  by  hand  and  it 
is  the  general  rule  to  work  for  produc- 
tion and  not  for  quality,  as  a  great 
many  defects  are  covered  up  in  the 
brushing  of  the  cloth. 


TWO  PROCESSES  OF  PICKING 
are  used.  The  mixing  after  being  al- 
lowed to  stand  is  fed  to  the  feeders. 
The  seeds,  fly,  etc.,  should  be  taken 
out  ai  regular  intervals  and  care  tak- 
en to  see  that  the  pin  beater  is  prop- 
erly set  so  that  the  correct  amount  of 
cotton  will  be  fed  to  the  breaker  pick- 
er, to  which  the  opener  is  generally 
attached.  The  beater  of  this  picker  is 
generally  of  a  two-bladed  rigid  type 
and  for  this  stock  its  speed  is  1,550 
revolutions  per  minute.  The  totaJ 
weight  of  the  lap  at  the  front  should 
be  about  40  pounds  or  a  16y2-ounce  lap. 
At  the  finisher  picker  the  doubling  is 
four  into  one,  the  speed  of  the  beater, 
1,500  revolutions  per  minute,  and  the 
total  weight  of  the  lap  39  pounds  or  a 
14%-ounce  lap.  A  variation  of  not  over 
S  ounces  either  side  of  standard  total 
weight  should  be  allowed.  Care 
should  be  taken  to  see  that  the 
drafts  are  properly  directed  so  as 
to  make  an  even  lap  that  does  not  have 
a  tendency  to  split  or  lick  up.  The 
eveners  should  be  properly  looked  af- 
ter to  see  that  they  are  working  prop- 
erly and  the  dirt,  seed,  etc.,  cleaned 
from  under  and  about  the  machines  at 
regular  intervals.  If  possible  the  pick- 
ers should  be  run  so  that  they  may  be 
stopped  as  early  as  possible  In  the 
week  so  as  to  clean  out  the  cages  and 
feed  rolls,  etc. 

AT  THE  CARDS 
the  draft  should  not  exceed  95  and  the 
wire  fillet  used  on  the  cylinder  should 
be  No.  90s  and  on  the  doffer  and  top 
flats  No.  100s.  Grind  and  clean  cards 
as  given  in  previous  articles.  The  set- 
tings of  the  different  parts  of  the  cards 
should  be  the  same  as  those  given  for 
indigo  prints  in  a  previous  article.  The 
weight  of  the  sliver  should  be  65 
grains  per  yard  and  the  production 
from  800  to  1,000  pounds  per  week  of 
60  hours.  For  this  class  of  goods  two 
processes  of  drawing  frames  are  used. 
The  frames  may  be  fitted  with  either 
leather  covered  or  metallic  top  rolls; 
generally  speaking  the  former  are  pre- 
ferred for  various  reasons.  The  doub- 
lings are  8  into  1  and  the  weight  of  the 
sliver  at  the  finisher  drawing  frame  is 
75  grains  per  yard.  The  speed  of  the 
front  roll  is  400  revolutions  per  min- 
ute. 

At  the  slubber  the  sliver  is  made  in- 
to .40  hank.     For 

THE  WARP  YARN 
this  is  spun  into  2.75  (single)  soft 
twist.  For  the  filling  yarn  there  Is  one 
process  of  fly  frame  at  which  the  slub- 
ber roving  is  made  into  1.25  hank.  The 
setting  of  the  rolls  should  be  looked 
after   to   see   that   they   are   properly 


294 


A    COTTON   FABRICS  GLOSSARY, 


spread  and  that  the  top  rolls  are  in 
good  condition.  The  speeder  or  fly 
frames  should  be  scoured  at  least  once 
a  year.  After  passing  the  fly  frame 
the  roving  is  made  into  11.5s,  being 
put  in  single,  on  a  frame  having  a 
7-inch  traverse,  1%-inch  diameter  ring 
and  spindle  speed  of  6,500  revolutions 
per  minute.  This  yarn  is  also  soft 
spun. 

ORLEANS  LININGS, 


Orleans  linings  comprehend  a  class 
of  goods,  of  various  qualities  and  pat- 
terns, having  a  cotton  warp  and  worst- 
ed filling.  They  are  used  principally 
for  lining  the  heavier  garments  for 
outer  and  winter  wear,  and  are  seen 
in  black  and  all  the  fashionable  shades. 
A  large  proportion  are  made  with  the 
5-end  twill,  — -  ,  ground.  Fig.  1,  the 
selvedge   being   woven  plain,   or   with 

DDDDB 

auama 
DDBoa 
umaau 
maoaa 

Fig.  1. 

two  picks  in  a  shed  and  catch  thread 
on  the  outside. 

The  cheapest  grades  are  woven 
white,  then  piece-dyed  in  solid  colors. 
Better  grades  have  warp  dyed  yarns, 
the  tilling  in  the  same  being  woven 
white  and  dyed  to  match  the  warp  after 
it  leaves  the  loom.  By  this  method 
cotton  warp  yarns  of  two  colors  may 
be  used,  say  black  and  white,  the  black 
being  used  for  the  body  of  the  cloth 
and  the  white  for  the  selvedges,  the 
dyes  used  for  the  wool  not  affecting  the 
cotton  to  any  appreciable  extent. 

Advertising  has  educated  the  retail 


Fi£ 


dealers  and  consumers  to  the  fact  that 
cotton  warp  goods  with  a  white  sel- 
vedge, the  ground  being  of  color,  are 
more  to  be  depended  upon  not  to 
crock  than  similar  cloths  of  solid  color. 
The  worsted  filling  used  is  of  a  nat- 
urally lustrous  type,  which  is  capable 
of  being  made  more  lustrous  by  the 
finishing  process.     The  yarns    are    re- 


quired to  be  of  good  quality  in  order 
to  finish  and  make  up  satisfactorily. 
Fig.  2  illustrates  a  characteristic 
ORLEANS  LINING, 
unfinished,  containing     three     counts, 
colors  and  qualities     of     warp     yarns. 
The  ground  warp  is  of    a  dark    slate 
color    (probably    intended    for   black). 
This  is  of  30s  counts,  is  reeded  3  ends 
per  dent,  and  weaves  as  shown  in  Fig. 

1.  The  section  just  inside  the  selvedge 
is  solid  white,  is  of  3-ply  100s  counts, 
is  reeded  8  ends  per  dent,  and  weaves 
two  picks  in  a  shed;  there  are  24  white 
ends  on  each  side.  The  selvedges  prop- 
er consist  of  16  ends  of  3-ply  60s  black 
cotton  on  each  side  and  are  reeded  4 
ends  per  dent;  they  weave  plain.  The 
selvedge  ends  are  drawn  2  as  1  through 
each  heddle;  the  remainder  of  the 
ends  are  drawn  single. 

CONSTRUCTION. 

The  construction  of  the  cloth  is  80 
square,  i.  e.,  80  ends  and  80  picks  per 
inch. 

The  fabric  under  consideration,  Fig. 

2,  would  require  9  harnesses,  5  for  the 
ground,  2  for  the  white  warp  and  2  for 
the  selvedges,  and  could  be  handled 
best  on  a  dobby  loom.  By  exceptional 
care  in  beaming  the  yarn  it  would  be 
possible  to  put  the  three  counts  of 
warp  on  the  same  beam,  but  it  is  not 
advisable  to  do  so  for  various  reasons. 
One  is  that  the  3-lOOs  yarn,  being  so 
crowded  in  the  reed,  would  under  nor- 
mal conditions  take  up  faster  than  the 
ground  warp  and  thereby  become  tight- 
er. Being  3-ply  yarn  of  good  quality  it 
might  stand  the  strain  of  weaving  all 
right,  but  would  not  stretch  to  any  ex- 
tent in  finishing.  If  the  ground  cloth 
was  stretched  to  its  limit  in  finishing, 
the  white  yarn  would  be  liable  to  break 
during  that  process.  For  the  best 
results  it  would  be  advisable 
to  run  the  white  and  selvedge 
yarns  from  spools,  and  the  ground 
warp  from  the  main  beam.  The 
white  yarn  should  be  run  with  a 
minimum  amount  of  tension. 

The  white  ends  in  this  sample  are  so 
crowded  in  the  reed  as  to  cover  the 
filling  entirely;  these  would  show  solid 
white  even  after  the  filling  was  dyed 
to  match  the  ground  warp.  It  is 
something  out  of  the  ordinary  to  have 
such  an  elaborate  selvedge  as  this  on 
a  lining  fabric,  the  general  run  of  the 
goods  having  a  solid  color  ground  and 
a  few  white  ends  for  selvedge. 
LOOM   REQUIRED. 

For  ordinary  lining  fabrics  where 
the  ground  weave  does  not  occupy 
more  than  5  harnesses,  a  cam  loom 
with  a  selvedge  motion  would  be  the 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


295 


best  to  use.  A  loom  weaving  5  ends 
sateen  could  readily  be  changed  over 
to  weave  a  5-end  twill  by  changing  the 
order  of  treading  the  cams,  or,  if  the 
cams  are  cast  in  one  piece,  by  chang- 
ing the  order  of  tying  up  the  har- 
nesses. One  shuttle  only  is  required. 
FINISHING. 
The  finishing  process  consists  of 
burling,  singeing,  crabbing,  dyeing, 
drying  and  shearing  and  pressing  on 
hydraulic  press. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Orleans  linings  are  made  up  of 
worsted  and  cotton  yarns.  The  counts 
of  these  vary  according  to  the  grade  of 
the  lining  desired.  The  cotton  warp 
yarns  of  the  sample  analyzed  are: 
main  warp  30s,  section  just  in- 
side the  selvedges,  3-lOOs,  and  the  sel- 
vedge itself  3-60s.  These  counts 
of  yarn  are  made  in  the  third  division 
of  mills  as  given  in  a  previous  article. 
While  the  count  of  the  main  yarn  is 
only  what  may  be  called  a  medium 
count,  still,  it  is  made  in  mills  where 
fine  counts  are  made.  It  must  be  un- 
derstood that  while  the  mills  making 
fine  count  yarns  may  and  do  make  low 
or  coarse  count  yarns,  the  medium  and 
low  count  mills  cannot  make  high 
count  yarns  with  equal  success. 

FOR  THE  YARNS 
in  the  fabric  to  be  described,  three 
different  lengths  of  staple  cotton  are 
used.  These  are  mixed  either  by  hand 
or  with  the  bale  breaker,  the  latter 
being  the  better  method,  because  no 
matter  how  closely  the  laborers  are 
watched,  they  do  not  break  up  the  cot- 
ton as  it  should  be  done.  The  mixing 
should  be  allowed  to  stand  as  long  as 
possible  in  order  to  dry  out.  Three 
processes  of  pickers  are  used  and  the 
same  beater  speed  may  be  used  for  the 
three  different  lengths  of  staple.  At  the 
breaker  picker  a  two-bladed  beater  of 
the  rigid  type  is  generally  used.  The 
speed  of  this  beater  is  1,500  revolutions 
per  minute.  Care  should  be  taken  to 
have  the  feed  rolls  and  cages  taken 
out  and  cleaned  at  regular  intervals, 
which  should  be  as  frequently  as  possi- 
ble. Be  careful  to  get  a  lap  that 
does  not  split.  The  weight  of  the  lap 
at  the  breaker  picker  should  be  about 
40  pounds  for  all  three  staples.  At 
THE  INTERMEDIATE  PICKER 
the  laps  are  doubled  4  into  1.  The 
speed  of  this  beater  is  1,450  revolutions 
per  minute.  The  weight  of  the  lap  at 
the  front  is  37V^  pounds.  At 
the  finisher  picker  the  laps  are 
doubled  4  into  1,  and  the  speed  of  the 


beater  is  1,400  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  total  weight  at  the  front  may  be 
the  same  for  all  staples  or  they  may 
have  different  weights,according  to  the 
ideas  of  the  ones  in  charge.  If  of  dif- 
ferent weights,  the  weight  of  the  lap 
for  the  30s  yarn,  which  would  be 
made  out  of  1%  to  1  3-16  inch  staple 
cotton,  would  be  39  pounds  or  a  141^- 
ounce  lap;  for  the  GOs  yam  (1  3-16  to 
1  5-16  inch  staple),  35  pounds  or  a  12^^- 
ounce  lap;  and  for  the  100s  yarn  (1%  to 
1%  inch  staple),  35  pounds  or  a  12i/^- 
ounce  lap.  The  staples  of  cotton  giv- 
en above  are  for  the  fabric  under  de- 
scription and  do  not  apply  to  all  fab- 
rics made  up  of  the  same  counts  of 
yarn.  Look  out  for  the  drafts  and 
see  that  the  required  number  of  laps 
are  always  up  at  the  different  process- 
es and  also  that 

THE   EVENING  MOTIONS 

are  in  perfect  working  order.  A  vari- 
ation of  half  a  pound  either  side  of  the 
standard  weight  is  allowed,  but  all 
laps  that  vary  more  than  this  should 
be  run  over  again  through  the  finisher 
picker.  Look  out  to  see  that  the  pick- 
er tender  on  the  finishers  does  not  pull 
enough  lap  off  of  a  heavy  lap  to  make 
it  the  required  weight.  Enough  laps 
should  be  made  between  Monday  and 
Friday  noontime  to  enable  the  cards 
to  be  run  the  rest  of  the  week. 
This  is  so  that  the  picker  men  may 
have  time  to  clean  the  pickers  and 
make  all  repairs  on  the  machines  that 
are  required. 

THE  CARDS 
should  be  equipped  with  fine  counts  of 
wire  fillet.  The  draft  at  the  card  for 
the  30s  yarn  should  not  exceed  95,  for 
the  60s  100,  and  for  the  100s  not  less 
than  100.  The  flats  for  the  coarser 
yarn  should  make  one  complete  revo- 
lution every  55  minutes,  for  the  mid- 
dle count  in  50  minutes,  and  for  the 
fine  count  in  40  minutes.  Grind,  strip 
and  set  as  described  in  previous  arti- 
cles when  these  counts  of  yarns  have 
been  described.  The  weight  per  yard 
of  the  sliver  should  be  45  grains  and 
the  production  SOO  pounds  for  the 
1  3-16-inch  staple,  700  pounds  for 
1  5-16-inch  staple  and  550  pounds  for 
1%-inch  staple  for  a  week  of  60  hours. 
All  the  card  sliver  for  this  fabric  is 
combed.     It  Is 

THE  GENERAL  METHOD 

to  run  the  cotton  in  succession  through 
the  following  machines:  sliver  lap, 
ribbon  lap  and  comber,  but  a  great 
many  mill  men  nowadays  prefer  the 
following  arrangement:  one  process 
drawing  frame,  sliver  lap  and  comber. 


296 


A    COTTON   FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


If  the  former  method  is  used,  the  dou- 
bling at  the  sliver  lap  machine  (for 
an  8%-inch  width  lap)  is  14  into  1,  and 
at  the  ribbon  lap  machine  6  into  1.  The 
weight  of  the  lap  at  the  sliver  lap 
machine  is  295  grains  per  yard,  and  at 
the  ribbon  lap  machine  275  grains  per 
yard  for  1  3-16-inch  staple,  290  grains 
at  sliver  lap  and  275  grains  at  ribbon 
lap  for  1  5-16-inch  stock  and  280  grains 
and  265  grains  for  1%-inch  stock.  Size 
at  riboon  lap  once  a  day,  an  allowance 
of  five  grains  either  side  of  standard 
weight  being  allowed  before  changing 
draft  gear.  At  the  comber  the  dou- 
bling is  according  to  tne  number  of 
heads  that  comber  contains  (6  or  8). 
The  usual  setting  and  timings  should 
be  used.  The  percentage  of  waste  taken 
out  at  the  comber  is  as  follows:  15  for 
1  3-16,  16  for  1  5-16  and  18  to  20  for  1% 
inch  stocks. 

TWO  PROCESSES  OF  DRAWING 

are  used,  the  doubling  at  the  breaker 
being  8  into  1,  and  at  the  finisher  6 
into  1.  The  weight  of  the  sliver  at  the 
finisher  drawing  is  70  grains  per  yard 
for  all  the  cotton.  Size  drawings  four 
times  a  day,  an  allowance  of  2  grains 
per  yard  either  side  of  standard  weight 
being  allowed,  before  changing  draft. 
At  the  slubber  the  sliver  is  made  into 
.60  hank  roving  for  all  stocks. 

To  make  30s  yarn  the  cotton  is  put 
through  two  processes  of  fly  frames.  At 
the  first  intermediate,  the  hank  roving 
paade  is  2,  and  at  thefine  frame  6.  This 
is  made  into  30s  yarn  on  a  warp  spin- 
ning frame  with  a  2%-inch  traverse, 
1'4-inch  diameter  ring,  and  a  6%-inch 
traverse.  The  yarn  is  then  spooled, 
warped  and  put  through  the  slashers. 

THE  SLUBBING  ROVING 
for  the  60s  yarn  is  put  through  three 
processes  of  fly  frames,  the  hank  rov- 
ing being  1  at  first  intermediate,  3  at 
second  intermediate  and  12  at  jack 
frame.  This  is  spun  into  60s  yarn  on  a 
frame  having  the  following  particulars: 
1%-inch  diameter  ring.  6-inch  traverse, 
and  spindle  speed  10,000  revolutions 
per  minute. 

The  yarn  is  then  spooled,  made  into 
3-ply  yarn,  spooled  and  run  on  to  a  sel- 
vedge warp. 

The  slubber  roving  for  100s  yarn  is 
also  put  through  three  processes  of 
fly  frames.  At  the  first  intermediate  it  Is 
made  into  2  hank,  at  the  second  into  6 
hank,  and  at  the  fine  or  jack  frame,  20 
hank  roving.  This  is  spun  into  100s 
on  a  spinning  frame  having  a  2%-inch 
gauge,  1%-inch  diameter  ring,  5-inch 
traverse  and  a  spindle  speed  of  9,400. 

After  being  made  into  100s  yarn  it  is 
spooled  and  twisted  into  three-ply  yarn, 


after  which  it  is  spooled  and  warped 
and  put  through  a  slasher. 

At  the  sliver  lap  machine,  ribbon  lap 
machine,  comber  and  drawing  frame 
the  leather  top  rolls  have  to  be  varnish- 
ed, and  should  be  kept  in  perfect  con- 
dition, both  as  to  varnish  and  leather. 

THE  VARNISH  USED 
for  the  comber  rolls  should  be  of  a 
heavier  or  rougher  kind  than  that 
used  for  the  other  rolls.  Several  recipes 
for  varnish  have  been  already  given, 
but  the  following  will  also  be 
found  to  be  an  excellent  one:  For 
comber  rolls  use  8  ounces  plate  glue,  8 
ounces  ground  gelatine,  12  ounces 
burnt  sienna,  1  ounce  oil  originum,  3 
pints  acetic  acid,  1  pint  water.  For  the 
other  rolls  use  the  same  mixture,  ex- 
cepting that  vermilion  should  be  used 
instead  of  the  burnt  sienna.  This 
will  make  a  much  smoother  roll  than 
the  varnish  used  for  the  combers. 
Many  also  varnish  the  front  rolls  of 
the  slubber;  when  this  is  done  the  var- 
nish used  should  be  thinner  than  the 
others,  being  thinned  with  the  acetic 
acid. 


Dyeing   Particulars. 

Dyeing  Orleans  linings,  as  in  all 
other  classes  of  goods,  is  done  in  a 
good  many  ways,  according  to  the  qual- 
ity and  the  price  the  goods  are  sold  at. 
A  fine  quality  black  Orleans  is  woven 
with  a  black  warp,  which  will  stand 
the  after  processes  of  finishing  and 
dyeing,  which  are  crabbing,  scouring, 
singeing  and  steam  lustring;  then  dye- 
ing either  with  a  logwood  black  on  a 
chrome  mordant  or  one  of  the  blacks 
which  dyes  the  worsted  filling  at  one 
dip  in  an  acid  bath.  If  the  goods  have 
white  cotton  threads  in  the  selvedges, 
the  dyer  will  select  one  of  the  blacks 
which  have  no  afiinity  for  cotton  in  the 
acid  bath.  Dyestuffs  suitable  for  the 
warps  on  this  class  of  goods  are 

THE  SULPHUR  BLACKS, 
which  are  sold  under  several  names, 
but  all  dye  in  the  same  manner  in  a 
bath  composed  of  the  dye.  sodium 
sulphide,  soda  ash  and  common  salt  or 
Glauber's  salts.  Another  black  suit- 
able for  this  class  of  goods  is  the  dia- 
mine blacks,  developed.  These  blacks 
are  dyed  in  the  following  manner:  first 
the  warps  are  dyed  in  a  boiling  bath 
with  the  diamine  black  and  Glauber's, 
then  treated  in  a  cold  bath  with  ni- 
trite of  soda  and  muriatic  acid,  then 
in  a  third  cold  bath  with  phenylenedia- 
mine.  Fast  slate  shades  are  dyed  the 
same  as  the  blacks,  only  using  about 
half  the  proportion  of  dyes  and  shad- 


A  COTTON   FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


2y7 


ing  with  small  portions  of  red  or  yel- 
low of  the  same  group  of  dyes.  Or- 
leans 

FOR  FANCY  COLORS 

are  woven  with  white  cotton  warps 
and  worsted  filling,  which  are  dyed 
either  with  the  direct  colors,  which 
dye  the  cotton  and  worsted  at  one  bath, 
or  the  four-bath  method.  The  first 
method  consists  in  dyeing  in  a  bath 
composed  of  the  direct  cotton  dyes  and 
wool  dyes  which  dye  in  a  neutral  bath 
with  Glauber's  salts  at  boil.  The  sec- 
ond method  is  to  first  dye  the  worsted 
filling  with  aniline  dyes  in  a  bath 
with  acid  and  Glauber's  salts.  Wash 
well.  Then  treat  the  warps  with  tan- 
nic acid,  or  sumac,  in  a  cold  bath;  then 
in  a  third  bath,  with  tartar  emetic, 
or  one  of  the  antimony  salts;  then  in 
a  fourth  bath  dye  the  warp  to  shade 
with  basic  dyestuff.  The  dyeing  of  this 
class  of  goods,  like  that  of  all  other 
goods  dyed  in  the  piece,  requires  con- 
siderable practice  and  skill. 


SHADOW  CHECKS, 


Shadow  checks  are  a  class  of  pat- 
terns of  set  check  or  block  effects 
of  a  very  faint  character.  Viewed  from 
certain  directions,  they  appear  to  have 
a  faint  stripe  or  to  be  without  pattern 
entirely.  They  are  seen  in  apparel 
goods  of  various  materials,  from  silk  to 
cotton,  and  usuallj''  in  plain,  simple 
twill,  or  other  small  regular  weave. 
The  goods  are  always  shown  in  white, 
black  or  solid  color. 

Shadow  checks  are  the  faintest  check 
effects  that  appear  in  woven  goods  and 
are  made  by  arranging  a  certain  num- 
ber of  ends  of  yarn  twisted  to  the 
right  and  a  certain  number  twisted  to 
the  left,  and  picking  the  filling  in  a 
similar  manner.  For  example,  a  shad- 
ow check  of  the  shepherd  plaid  type, 
i.  e.,  a  check  with  alternate  blocks  of 
equal  size,  might  have  the  warp  yarns 
arranged  10  ends  of  right  twist  and  10 
ends  of  left  twist  fiternately,  the  fill- 
ing being  inserted  10  picks  of  right 
twist  and  10  pickb  of  left  twist. 

A  MODIFICATION 

pf  this  might  be  made  by  arranging  the 
yarns  in  both  warp  and  filling,  4  right 
twist,  2  left  twist,  4  right,  4  left,  2 
right,  4  left;  20  ends  and  20  picks  per 
pattern. 
As  the  yarns  are  all  of     the     same 


counts,  material,  quality  and  color,  and 
are  reeded  equally,  it  follows  that 
something  out  of  the  ordinary  causes 
the  check  effect.  It  is  an  optical  illu- 
sion, due  to  the  reflection  of  the  light 
that  falls  upon  the  fabric  being  de- 
flected at  a  different  angle  in  the  sec- 
tions composed  of  right  twist  yarns  to 
the  sections  composed  of  the  reverse 
twist  yarns. 

In  a  shadow  check  of  the  shepherd 
plaid  type  under  consideration,  the 
face  yarns  are  arranged  16     of     each 


Fig.  1. 

twist  alternately  in  both  warp  and  fill- 
ing. The  face  weave  is  the  4-end  bas- 
ket. 

LOOM  REQUIRED. 

These  goods  require  box  looms  of 
the  simplest  type,  with  two  boxes  at 
one  end  and  a  single  box  at  the  other. 

The  manner  of  preparing  the  warps 
determines  to  some  extent  the  type  of 
shedding  motion  to  use,  whether  cam 
or  dobby.  As  the  finished  fabrics  are 
required  to  be  in  one  solid  color,  and 
some  warp  yarns  differ  from  others 
only  in  the  direction  of  twist  In  the 
same,  care  has  to  be  exercised  to  keep 
the  yarns  where  they  belong  and  to 
tie  in  the  right  twist  when  an  end 
breaks. 

ONE  OF  TWO  METHODS 
may  be  adopted  to  assist  in  keeping 
the'  yarns  in  order:  . 

First,  tint  the  yarns  of  one  twist 
with  a  light  substance  that  may  be  no- 
ticeable in  the  loom  and  yet  wash  out 
readily  before  it  is  dyed,  the  other 
warp  varus  being  in  the  gray.  By  this 
method  the  warp  yarns  may  all  be 
readily  drawn  on  one  beam,  and  wov- 
en on  a  cam  loom. 

Second,  place  the  different  twists  of 
yarns  on  separate  beams  and  draw 
them  through  separate  sections  of  har- 
nesses. When  this  method  is  adopted 
it  is  advisable  to  use  the  dobby  in  pref- 
erence to  cams  on  account  of  the  num- 
ber of  harnesses  required. 

Two  colors  or  kinds  of  bobbins 
should  be  used,  one  for  each  kind  of 
twist,  so  that  the  filling  will  not  be  li- 
able to  get  mixed;  or  if  cops  without 
tubes  are  used,  the  shuttles  should  be 
marked  so  as  to  be  easily  distin- 
guished. Tubes  of  different  colors  can 
be  used  if  the  cops  are  built  on  tubes. 

IMITATIONS 
of  shadow  checks  have  been  shown  to 
some  extent  in   cotton  warp  and  mo- 


298 


A    COTTON   FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


hair  or  lustre  worsted  filling  goods. 
These  are  made  with  the  warp  yarn  ail 
the  same  twist,  the  shadow  effect,  warp 
way,  being  obtained  by  reeding  some 
dents  with  more  ends  than  others. 

In  a  fabric  of  the  type  of  goods  un- 
der consideration,  the  j-arns  are  ar- 
ranged   as   follows: 


WARP. 

Ends. 

Dents. 

1« 

in 

9 

1 

1 

18 

9 

1 

1 

10 

5 

1 

1 

10 

S 

1 

1 

10 

6 

4 

4 

10 

6 

4 

4 

10 

5 

1 

1 

10 

6 

1 

1 

10 

5 

1 

1 

Total,   121  ends 

in  68  dents,   per  pattern. 

FILLING. 

Right  twist  yarn. 

Left  twist  yarn. 

10 

6 

10 

6 

6 

6 

6 

6 

6 

10 

6 

10 

6 

6 

6 

6 

62  +  62  =  124   picks  per  pattern. 

As  these  fabrics  are  characterized  by 
the  pattern,  the  constructions  of  the 
cloths  vary  considerably.  The  fabric 
under  consideration  contains  an  aver- 
age of  about  55  1-3  ends  per  inch  of 
2-120s  cotton,  the  same  twist  through- 
out. Each  pattern  contains  121  ends 
and  measures 2  3-16  inches;  121  divided 
by  2  3-16  equals  55  11-35  or  55  1-3  per 
inch. 

There  are  48  picks  of  worsted  per 
inch. 

Shadow  stripes  are  made  by  using  only 
one  kind  of  filling,  the  warp  yarns 
being  arranged  as  in  shadow  checks, 
with  the  take-up  of  the  cloth  regular. 
An  irregular  take-up  would  make  a 
check  effect. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  carding  and  spinning  data  for 
this  class  of  fabric  are  those  given  in 
the  article  on  batiste  and  need  not  be 
repeated  here. 

Dyeing   Particulars. 

These  goods  are  dyed  with     30    per 


cent  Glauber's  salt  and  run  at  a  tem- 
perature of  190  degrees  F.  until  the 
wool  is  dark  enough,  when  the  steam 
is  turned  off  and  the  bath  cooled  down 
and  the  goods  run  until  the  cotton 
warp  is  dyed  to  shade. 

LIGHT  PINK. 

One-half  to  2  ounces  erika  pink. 

BLACK. 
Five  per  cent  union  black  S  B. 

LIGHT  BLUE. 
Dye  as  pink,  with  %  to  1  ounce  tetra- 
zo  brilliant  blue  6  B. 

LIGHT   SLATE. 
Two  ounces  diamine  black  B  H;  dye 
as  pink. 

RED. 
One-half  pound  benzo  fast  red  4  B; 
dye  as  pink. 

YELLOW. 
Dye  as  pink.     Eight  ounces  chryso- 
phenine. 

ORANGE. 
Dye  as  pink.    One     pound     Mikado 
orange  B. 

SCARLET. 
Dye  as  pink.     One  pound     diamine 
scarlet  B. 

LIGHT  WINE. 
Dye  as  pink.    One     pound     diamine 
Bordeaux  B. 

LIGHT  AMBER   BROWN. 
Four    ounces    diamine   catechine    G; 
4  ounces  diamine  fast  yellow  B;    dye 
as  pink. 

TOBACCO  BROWN. 
One-half   pound    diamine   brown    B; 
2  ounces  diamine  fast  yellow  B;  dye  as 
pink. 

LIGHT  TAN. 
Dye   as   pink;      4     ounces     diamine 
bronze   G;    2  ounces  diamine  fast  yel- 
low B. 

LIGHT  GREEN. 
Dye   as   pink;    10     ounces     diamine 
green   G;    5  ounces  diamine  fast  yel- 
low B.     Top  with  fresh  bath;  6  ounces 
brilliant  green  G. 


BARATHEA. 


Barathea,  or  barrathea,  is  a 
name  used  to  denote  a  certain 
effect  in  woven  fabrics,  obtained  prin-» 
ci'pally  by  the  manner  in  which  the 
warp  yarns  are  interlaced. 

The  effect  combines  to  a  greater  or 
less  degree  several  well-known  types  of 


A  COTTOX  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


299 


woven  effects.  Viewed  in  certain  ways 
the  effect  is  that  of  a  stripe.  Upon 
close  examination  it  appears  like  a 
brolven  cord,  and  yet  somewhat  like 
a  basket  weave. 

An  examination  of  Fig.  2,  the  weave 
will  reveal  how  these  effects  are  ob- 
tained. This  weave  is  complete  on  24 
ends  and  four  picks,  having  been 
repeated  in  the  picks.  At  the 
points  indicated  by  the  space  there 
is  a  break  in  the  regular  formation 
of  the  pattern,  caused  by  one  section, 
which  is  in  all  respects  like  the  other, 
in  so  far  as  the  effect  it  makes  is  con- 
cerned,  being  raised  half  way  of  one 


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anaaaa  aaaDaaiiDaDBC  bdbdbd 

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Fig.  2 


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Fig.  3. 

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lM8 

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Fig.  5. 

cord  above  the  other,  or,  as  it  is 
termed,  one  section  is  "set  across"  the 
other.  It  is  at  these  points  that  a  cut 
effect  is  obtained,  which  defines  the 
stripe  warp  way.  One  repeat  of  the 
weave,  in  the  number  of  picks  it  con- 
tains, is  represented  in  the  cloth  by 
two  repeats  of  the  effect,  or  two  cords 
warp  way. 

Section  A,  or  B,  of  Fig.  2  is  simply 
repeats  of  warp  cord  weaves.  Each 
section  represents  six  repeats  of  the 
two  end  cord.  Fig.  3,  and  if  woven 
alone  would  form  an  unbroken  cord  or 
rep  effect  across  the  cloth.  The  great- 
er the  number  of  ends  in  each  section 
of  the  weave,  as  compared  with  the 
number  of  picks,  the  more  pronounced 
will  be  the  cord  appearance.  The 
nearer  square  the     complete     pattern 


appears  in  the  cloth,  the  more  will  it 
resemble  a  basket  effect. 

The  patterns  vary  from  square  to 
effects  several  times  longer  filling  way 
than   length  way  of  the  cloth. 

When  constructing  cloths  with  warp 


cord  weaves,  of  which  barathea 
weaves  are  an  extension,  considera- 
bly more  ends  than  picks  per  inch  are 
required,  the  object  being  to  cover  the 
filling  yarns  entirely. 

Barathea  fabrics  in  all-silk,  or  with 
silk  warp   and   cotton   filling,   are   ex- 


300 


A    COTTON   FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


tensively  used  in  the  manufacture  of 
gentlemen's  neckties.  They  are  usual- 
ly shown  in  white,  black,  solid  and 
staple  colors,  although  occasionally 
made  in  more  than  one  color. 

Ihe  construction  of  two  of  these 
fabrics  is  as  follows:  White,  fine 
silk  warp  and  spun  silk  filling, 
weave,  Fig.  2;  280  ends  and  72 
picks  per  inch;  23  1-3  ribs  per  inch. 
Black,  fine  silk  warp,  ply  cotton 
filling,  weave,  Fig.  4;  480  ends  and 
100  picks  per  inch;  10  ribs  per 
inch.  They  are  seldom  made  with 
larger  effects  than  this  for  tie  silks. 

Baratheas  are  excellent  wearing  fab- 
rics, the  yarns  exposed  to  wear,  the 
warp  yarns,  being  necessarily  fine  and 
of  good  quality.  They  are  made  to 
differ  in  the  sizes  of  ribs  used,  small 
effects  being  used  more  than  large 
ones.  The  size  is  regulated  by  one 
or  both  of  two  factors;  first,  the  num- 
ber of  ends  and  picks  in  a  repeat  of 
the  weave;  second,  the  number  .  of 
ends  and  picks  per  inch,  of  yarn  in 
the  cloth.  Figs.  2,  4  and  5  are  the 
weaves  generally  used,  the  number  of 
ends  in  each  section  varying  accord- 
to  requirements. 

The  two  sections  comprising  the  re- 
peat, no  matter  how  many  ends  used, 
usually  contain  an  equal  number  of 
ends. 

With  the  weaves  already  noted  the 
effect  produced  on  the  back  of  the  cloth 
is  an  exact  duplicate  of  that  on  the 
face.  A  modification  or  extension  of 
these  weaves,  used  principally  in  the 
larger  effects,  is  shown  in  Figs.  6  and 
7. 

The  solid  marks  in  Fig.  6  indicate 
a  weave  that  would  form  an  effect  on 
the  face  of  the  cloth  similar  to  that 
made  with  weave  Fig.  4.  These  repre- 
sent where  the  warp  would  show  on 
the  face,  coming  together  and  covering 
the  raisers  indicated  by  the  crosses. 
The  latter  indicate  a  broken  plain 
weave  on  the  back. 

Fig.  7  would  make  the  same  face  ef- 
fect in  the  cloth  as  Fig.  4,  if  woven 
Avith  the  same  construction,  but  the 
back  of  the  cloth  would  show  a  broken 
twill  effect.  A  firmer  fabric  would  be 
produced  with  weaves  G  and  7  than 
.  -Rith  No.  4,  with  the  same  amount  of 
material. 

Further  extensions  of  these  weaves 
are  illustrated  in  Figs.  8,  9,  10  and  11. 

The  patterns  indicated  may  be  wov- 
en on  ordinary  single  box  silk  dobby 
looms.  If  two  colors  are  used  in  the 
same  fabric  they  are  arranged  in  the 
warp.  As  the  warp  covers  the  filling 
there  is  nothing  to  be  gained  by  us- 
ing more  than  one  color  of  filling. 


LOOP  OR  KNO  CLOTH. 


Jjoop  or  kno  cloths  are  character- 
ized by  small  loops  of  warp  yam  pro- 
jecting from  the  face  of  the  cloth,  usu- 
ally in  set,  regular  order. 

They  are  novelties,  not  standard 
goods,  and  as  such  are  not  limited  to 
any  one  construction,  quality  or  ma- 
terial. They  are  generally  made  with 
cotton,  wool  or  silk  yarns.  The 
yarns  forming  the  loops  are  used  for 
ornamental    purposes    only. 

Fig.  1  is  an  example  of  a  loop  pat- 
tern on  a  L-.^  twill  ground.  The 
loop  yarns  in  this  particular  instance 


^'i 


FiS.    1. 

are  arranged  as  extras,  not  showing 
on  the  face  of  the  cloth,  except  where 
they  are  required  to  form  the  loops, 
t  igs.  2,  3  and  4  show  the  weave,  har- 
ness draft  and  chain  draft  respectively 
to  produce  Fig.  1.  The  ground  ends 
are  drawn  through  harnesses  1,  2,  3 
and  4,  and  the  loop  yams  through  5,  6, 
7  and  8.  The  weave  is  complete  on  52 
ends   and   60   picks,    including  4   wire 

THE  LOOP  YARNS 
weave  ^—,  ,  except  where  they  are  re- 
quired to  loop,  and  are  tied  between 
two  face  ends  raised  on  opposite 
sides  of  the  ties.  Crosses  in  Fig.  2 
show  where  the  loop  yarns  are  raised 
over  the  wires  to  form  the  loops.  Cir- 
cles indicate  tying  points,  two  ends 
working  together  as  one.  Crosses  in 
Fig.  4  indicate  where  the  wires  go  be- 
tween the  warp  yarns  in  place  of  the 
regular  shuttle.  All  the  face  warp  is 
down,  and  the  take-up  motion  of  the 
loom  is  stopped  on  these  picks. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


301 


THE  CONSTRUCTION 
•of  sample  Fig.  1  is  85.8  ends  and  66 
picks  per  inch,  average.  The  ground 
cloth  is  66  square  and  there  are  12 
loop  or  extra  ends  to  every  40  ground 
ends.  The  warp  is  all  two-ply  yarn  of 
similar  count.  The  filling  is  single 
yarn. 

LOOM  REQUIRED. 
Loop  effects  may  be  woven  on  loop 
pile  carpet  looms,  or  on  ordinary  dob- 
by   or   jacquard   looms   provided    with 


tie,  on  the  picks  required  to  form  the 
loops,  on  the  principle  applied  when 
making  loop  pile  carpets.  These  wires 
are  automatically  withdrawn  after 
the  ground  filling  has  secured  the 
loops. 

Cloth  illustrated  in  Fig.  1  has 
been  made  on  this  principle.  Two 
extra  spools  or  beams  have  been  used, 
one  for  ends  on  5  and  6,  and  one  for 
ends  on  7  and  8. 

Third.     The  loop  yarns  are  allowed 


special  mechanisms  or  attachments, 
and  beam  stands,  upon  which  one  or 
more  extra  beams  may  be  placed.vary- 
ing  according  to  requirements.  Tlie 
loop  yarns  take  up  faster,  and  more 
intermittently,  than  the  ground  yarns, 
requiring  a  greater  length  of  warp  for 
a  given  length  of  cloth. 
There  are 

VARIOUS   METHODS 

by  which   the  loops  may  be  obtained, 
each    of    which    requires    difforent    at- 


to  come  off  the  warp  beam  at  about 
the  same  tension  as  the  ground  ends, 
except  on  the  picks  when  they  are  re- 
quired to  loop,  when  they  are  forced 
forward  a  greater  length  by  a  posi- 
tive motion.  On  these  picks  the  yarns 
are  eased  after  the  shuttle  has  cross- 
ed the  shed,  and  the  shed  closed  before 
the  reed  reaches  the  fell  of  the  cloth. 
This  is,  perhaps,  the  simplest  method. 
Fourth.  The  loops  may  be  made  on 
a  loom  with  a  terry  reed  motion  (see 
article    on    terry    toweling),    but    this 


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Fii 


tachments.  Some  of  these  are  as  fol- 
lows: 

First.  The  loop  yarns  are  arranged 
to  work  gauze  or  leno  in  connection 
with  wires  fastened  to  one  or  more 
of  the  harness  frames.  These  yarns 
go  from  one  side  to  the  other  of  the 
wires  and  as  the  cloth  is  drawn  down, 
slide  over  and  away  from  them  and 
are  left  in  loops. 

Second.  Wires  are  inserteil  across 
the  cloth  in  place  of  the  regular  shut- 


is  liable  to  make  the  cloth  look  barry 
where  the  three  picks  are  beaten  up 
together,  as  the  ground  ends  offer  con- 
siderably more  resistance  than  on  an 
ordinary  terry  towel  fabric,  there  be- 
ing only  a  relatively  small  portion  of 
the  ends  weaving  terry. 

Dyeing   Particulars. 
LIGHT    SLATE. 
One  per  cent  diamine  black  B  H;  1 


302 


A    COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


per  cent  sal   soda;    20   per  cent  Glau- 
ber's salt. 

ECRU. 

One-half  per  cent  diamine  catechine 
G;   %  per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow  B; 

1  per  cent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's. 

NAVY  BLUE. 

Eight  per  cent  immedial  new  blue 
G;  10  per  cent  sodium  sulphide  crys- 
tals; 2  per  cent  caustic  soda  lye,  75 
degrees  Tw.;    30  per  cent  Glauber's. 

BOTTLE   GREEN. 

Eight  per  cent  diamine  black  H  W; 

2  per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow   B;    2 


w 

1      « 

Eijti'iii: 



'           Wi  X 

"H — h-l — 

t  ±  :! 

Fig.    4. 

per  cent  sal  soda;    20  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's salt. 

GRAY. 

One  per  cent  immedial  black  N  L  N; 
1  per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  Vz  per 
cent  caustic  soda  solid;  20  per  cent 
salt. 

MAROON. 

Five  per  cent  immedial  maroon  B; 
6  per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  1  per  cent 
caustic  soda  solid;   20  per  cent  salt. 

MODE. 
One  per  cent  immedial  brown  B  V; 
1  per  cent  immedial  yellow  D;    2  per 
cent   sodium    sulphide;      V2    per     cent 
caustic  soda  .solid;    20  per  cent  salt. 

GREEN. 
Eight  per  cent  immedial  green  G  G; 
10    per    cent    sodium    sulphide;    2    per 


cent    caustic    soda   solid;    20    per    cent 
salt. 

BLACK. 
Six  per  cent  para  diamine  black   B 
B;  2  per  cent  sal  soda;     20     per     cent 
salt. 

RED. 
Five  per  cent  diamine  fast  red  F;   2 
per  cent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent  salt. 

PEA  GREEN. 
One-half  per  cent  diamine  green  G; 
1  per  cent  sal  soda;    10  per  cent  salt, 

SKY  BLUE. 
One  per  cent  diamine  sky  blue  P  F; 
1  per  cent  sal  soda;  15  per  cent  salt. 


CREPONS, 


These  fabrics  are  made  up  of  a 
combination  of  cotton  worsted,  or 
cotton,  worsted  and  silk.  The  goods 
are  usually  piece  dyed  and  used  prin- 
cipally for  ladies'  wear  in  the  form  of 
skirts.  The  character  of  the  patterns 
for  these  fabrics  is  such  that  the  best 
effects  can  only  be  obtained  with  the 
use  of  the  jacquard  loom.  In  this 
treatise  we  will  consider  the  fabric  as 
woven  on  the  harness  loom.  The  har- 
ness loom  is  utilized  either  because 
the  manufacturer  has  no  jacquard 
loom  on  hand  or  wishes  to  reduce 
the   cost  of  weaving. 

THE  WEAVE 
for  these  fabrics  is  based  on  the  dou- 
bled cloth  system.  Under  the  head  of 
doubled  cloth  we  comprehend  the 
combining  of  two  separate  textures  in- 
to one  fabric  requiring  separate  warp 
and  filling  threads  for  each  texture. 
Combining  the  two  textures  into 
one  fabric  is  effected  by  interlacing 
the  warp  or  filling  threads,  or  both,  cf 
one  texture  into  those  of  the  other  at 
regular  intervals. 

The  pattern  being  effected  with  the 
warp  and  filling  of  one  system  cf 
threads  forms  a  raised  figure  on  the 
face  of  the  goods.  This  raised  figure 
depends  as  much  on  the  nature  of  the 
yarn  as  it  does  on  the  weave.  The 
cotton  in  the  goods  is  principally  used 
as  a  back  for  the  raised  figure;  the 
worsted  forms  the  figure.  If  silk  is 
used,  the  silk  forms  the  figure  and  the 
worsted  or  wool  goes  into  the  body  of 
the  goods,  and  in  the  finishing  of  the 
fabric  contracts  considerably,  thus  ac- 
centuating the  figure. 

In    a    foregoing    paragraph    it    was 


A    COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


303 


suggested    that    the    best  effects    are  some  very  clever  effects.    The  variety 

only   obtainable   with   the  use   of  the  in  regard   to  texture  in  these  fabrics 

jacquard  loom,  by  reason  of  the  fact  can  be  comprehended  best  by  compar- 

that  the  patterns  are  too  large  to  be  ing   several    fabrics   of    different    tex- 


f  l^  I'^l'"  I  - 


Fig.    1. 


operated  on  the  harness  loom,  and 
as  a  rule  the  quality  of  the  fabric  is 
not  made  as  fine  as  the  jacquard  loom 
fabric;  however,  a  harness  loom  that 
can  operate  24  harnesses  can  produce 


tures.     Some  idea  may  be  obtained  by 

the  following  constructions. 
A  texture  for  a  cheap  grade  crepon: 
Width  in  reed,    56  inches;  finished    at 

52   inches;    warp   plan,  one   end   face 


304 


A    COTTON   FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


warp,  2-32S  mohair,  1  end  back  warp, 
2-50S  cotton;  15x4  reed;  filling,  l-30s 
cotton  filling;   60  picks. 

A  better  grade  may  be  made  with 
the  same  warp  plan,  by  using  one  pick 


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DOQDOn ■DDDDD 

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aaaanamnaann 
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□DGGBaaDGGaD 

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aaGnaaaii!L°DS 

ariGGGGGGBGGG 

DGGGGaaaGBGa 
maaaGaaaGBG 
GaaDaaaaGGGB 
GDGaaaaQBGGG 
GGaaaGGOGBoa 
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aGaanaDDDGDB 


worsted  to  alternate  with  one  pick  cot- 
ton. The  worsted  will  be  face  filling. 
The  character  of  the  pattern  for 
this  grade  of  crepon  may  be  any  con- 
ventionalized figure,  arranged  usually 
in  some  zigzag  manner,  imitating  as 
much  as  possible  the  larger  patterns 
made  on  jacquard  looms.  The  raised 
figure  or  blister  effect  covers  as  much 


space  or  divides  equally  with  the 
ground  in  most  fabrics  of  the  cheaper 
grades.  In  the  better  grades  there  is 
usually  more  figure  than  ground.  Fig.  1 
shows  a  design  illustrating  the  crepon 
weave  and  proportion  of  figure  to 
ground  for  fabrics  on  20  to  24  harness- 
es.    Fig.  2  shows  the  drawing-in  draft. 

A  texture  for  a  fine  grade  of  crepon 
that  may  be  woven  either  on  the  jac- 
quard  or   harness   loom: 

Warp  arrangement,  4  ends  face 
warp,  2  ends  in  1  heddle,  1^  dram 
silk;  20x3  reed;  1  end  back  warp,  2- 
60s  cotton;  filling  3  picks,  1  dram 
silk,  1  pick,  2-30s  worsted;  80  picks 
per  inch,  60  face  picks,  20  back  picks. 

This  construction  can  be  made  up 
to  the  best  advantage,  in  regard  to 
pattern,  with  the  jacquard  loom. 

In  finishing  the  cheaper  grades, 
wherein  the  fabric  is  made  up  of  cot- 
ton and  v(orsted,  the  cotton  yarn  is 
dyed  before  it  reaches  the  loom. 
After  the  fabric  is  woven  it  is  dyed 
for  the  worsted.  The  prevailing  color 
for  these  fabrics  is  solid  black.  The 
worsted  in  the  goods  contracts  con- 
siderably during  the  finishing,  produc- 
ing the  blister  effect  by  which  the 
goods  are  characterized. 

Carding  and  Spinning   Particulars. 

Crepon  is  made  up  in  many  differ- 
ent ways  and  out  of  different  fibres, 
sometimes  wool  and  cotton  yarns  be- 
ing employed.  Other  combinations 
are  cotton  and  silk,  wool  and  worsted, 
all  wool,  all  worsted,  all  cotton,  etc. 
When  the  same  fibre  is  used  through- 
out the  cloth,  the  twist  put  in  the  yarn 
plaj^s  a  very  important  part.  For  ex- 
ample, one  yarn,  generally  the  warp, 
is  very  tightly  twisted,  while  the  fill- 
ing yarn  is  stock  twisted.  When  the 
cloth  constructed  from  these  yarns  is 
dyed,  the  action  of  the  dye  on  the 
yarns  is  entirely  different  and  con- 
tracts one  more  than  the  other,  thus 
causing  the  raised  or  puffed  effect  of 
crepon. 

ANOTHER  METHOD 
used  is  to  have  part  of  the  warp  yarn 
with  the  regular  twist,  while  another 
part  has  a  reverse  twist  put 
in,  the  effect  produced  being 
the  same  as  before.  In  the 
cloth  under  description  the  back- 
ing or  picking  warp  is  to  be  2-60s  cot- 
ton yarn.  To  produce  this  yarn  the 
mechanics'  data,  etc.,  required  would 
be  as  follows:  The  mixing  should  be 
as  large  as  possible  and  should  be  al- 
lowed to  stand  at  least  48  hours  be- 
fore being  used,  so  that  the  cotton  will 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


305 


have  become  thoroughly  expanded  be- 
fore being  used. 

THE  COITON 
should  be  of  a  good  middling  grade 
and  of  1  5-16-inch  staple.  The  raw 
stock  is  passed  through  an  opener 
and  three  processes  of  picking.  The 
hopper  of  the  opener  should  be  kept 
full  of  cotton,  a  small  percentage  of 
good  waste  from  the  machines  up  to 
the  slubber  being  put  in  at  this  ma- 
chine. The  speed  of  the  beater, 
which  is  generally  of  the  two-bladed, 
rigid  type,  should  be  at  least  1,500 
revolutions  per  minute.  The  weight 
of  the  lap  at  the  front  end  should  be 
40  pounds,  or  a  16-ounce  lap  (the  total 
weights  given  are  for  a  lap  40  yards 
in  length).  Pour  of  these  laps  are 
put  up  at  the  intermediate  picker  and 
run  through  and  made  into  a  lap 
weighing  38  pounds,  or  a  10-ounce  lap. 
The  speed  of  the  beater  for  this  ma- 
chine is  1,450  revolutions  per  minute. 
These  laps  are  in  turn  put  up  at  the 
back  of 

THE    FINISHER   PICKER. 

The  speed  of  this  beater  is  1,350  to 
1,400  revolutions  per  minute.  The 
weight  of  the  lap  at  the  front  is  39 
pounds,  or  a  14%-ounce  lap.  Every  lap 
should  be  weighed  and  all  laps  varying 
more  than  one-half  a  pound  from  the 
standard  should  be  put  to  the  back  of 
the  finisher  picker  and  run  through 
again.  It  is  very  important  to  see 
that  this  is  done,  because  nothing 
will  throw  yarn  numbers  off  more 
quickly  than  laps  that  vary. 

Another  important  question  in  the 
picker  room  is  what  to  do  with  the 

CUT  ROVING  WASTE. 
Of  course,  the  best  thing  to  do  is  not 
to  make  it.  As  it  is  made,  the  next 
question  is  how  to  use  it  up.  Up-to- 
date  mills  are  installing  a  cut  roving 
waste  machine  in  their  plants,  but 
there  are  a  great  many  mills  which 
have  no  such  machine.  In  this  case 
the  waste  is  put  through  the  interme- 
diate picker,  the  two  centre  laps  at 
the  back  of  the  picker  being  removed 
and  the  waste  spread  evenly  between 
the  two  remaining  laps.  To  help 
stop  these  laps  from  licking,  four  or 
six  ends  of  slubber  roving  are  run  in- 
to the  lap  at  the  front  end  of  the  pick- 
er. These  laps  are  run  in  with  the 
raw  stock  laps  at  the  back  of  the  fin- 
isher picker  in  the  proportion  of  one 
lap  of  cut  waste  to  three  laps  of  cot- 
ton as  long  as  they  last.  As  little  cut 
waste  should  be  run  as  possible  be- 
cause it  not  only  causes  licking  laps, 
but    it 


CAUSES  UNEVEN  WORK 
and  weak  roving  and  yarn;  it  is  con- 
tinually breaking  back  in  the  creels, 
requiring  one  and  sometimes  two 
teeth  of  twist  more  than  when  not 
used.  The  laps  from  the  picker  are 
put  up  at  the  card,  the  setting  of 
which  should  be  the  same  as  given  in 
previous  articles  when  the  same  grade 
and  staple  of  cotton  were  used.  The 
speed  of  the  flats  should  be  one  com- 
plete revolution  every  37  minutes. 
The  speed  of  the  licker-in  should  be 
300  revolutions  per  minute.  The  pro- 
duction should  be  about  550  pounds  for 
a  week  of  60  hours.  Watch  all  the 
setting  points.  Set  at  least  once  a 
month  all  over.  Grind  cards  lightly 
and  often.  Strip  three  times  a  day 
and  keep  cards  as  clean  as  possible 
and  well  oiled.  Doff  cans  when  full 
and  don't  allow  them  to  become  so 
full  that  they  fall  over.  Care  should 
be  taken  that  no  single  or  double  is 
allowed  to  pass  through. 
The 

DRAFT  OF  THE  CARD 
for  this  kind  of  work  should  not  be 
less  than  100  and  the  sliver  should 
weigh  50  grains.  This  sliver  may  be 
either  combed  or  passed  directly  to 
the  drawing  frame.  Generally,  how- 
ever, it  is  combed.  Different  methods 
and  machines  are  used  nowadays 
for  combing,  but  the  general  method 
is  to  have  the  card  sliver  run  through 
a  sliver  lap  machine,  where  it  is  dou- 
bled 14  into  1,  and  the  weight  of  the 
lap  is  300  grains  per  yard.  From  here 
it  is  passed  to  the  ribbon  lap  machine 
and  doubled  6  into  1.  The  weight  of 
a  yard  of  lap  at  this  machine  is  290. 
From  here  it  is  passed  to 

THE  COMBER 
and  doubled  6  into  1,  the  weight  of  a 
yard  of  sliver  being  60  grains.  At 
the  ribbon  lap  machine  the  laps 
should  be  sized  once  a  day,  and  if  the 
weights  are  coming  uneven,  twice  or 
even  three  times  a  day.  The  comber 
sliver  is  next  put  through  two  process- 
es of  drawing,  the  doublings  being  8 
into  1  at  the  breaker  and  6  into  1  at 
the  finisher.  The  weight  of  sliver  at 
finisher  is  80  grains  per  yard.  This  cot- 
ton is  then  put  through  the  slubber 
and  made  into  .40  hank  roving.  At 
the  first  intermediate  the  roving  is  1 
hank  and  at  the  second  3  hank,  while 
at  the  jacks  the  roving  is  12  hank.  Be 
careful  of  the  settings  of  the  rolls. 
They  should  not  be  spread  too  far 
apart,  causing  a  strain,  nor  should 
they  be  so  close  as  to  cause  a  breaking 
of  the  fibre.     The   12-hanK  roving  Is 


306 


A    COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


spun  into  60s  on  a  spinning  frame  hav- 
ing a  2%-inch  gauge  of  frame,  li/^-inch 
diameter  ring,  and  a  6-inch  traverse. 
The  twist  put  in  is  in  excess  of  that 
generally  used  for  warp  yarn,  some- 
times as  high  as  6.40  times  the  square 
root  of  the  count  being  used,  instead 
of  4.25,  the  usual  twist.  After  being 
spun,  the  yam  is  spooled  and  twisted 
into  2-ply  60s  yarn,  after  which  it  is 
warped  and  run  through  the  slasher 
and  beamed. 


Dyeing   Particulars. 

Crepons  are  woven    sometimes  with 
a  black  warp,  dyed  with  sulphur  black 
and  piece  dyed  with  wool  colors. 
BLACK. 

Five  per  cent  anthracene  chrome 
black  P  F  ;  4  per  cent  acetic  acid; 
1  per  cent  oil  of  vitriol.  Boil  45  min- 
utes. Afterchrome  with  1  per  cent  bi- 
chrome  30  minutes. 

NAVY  BLUE. 

Four  per  cent  azo  chrome  blue  T 
B;  4  per  cent  acetic  acid;  1  per  cent 
oil  of  vitriol.  Afterchrome,  1  per  cent 
bichrome  30  minutes. 

The  warps  are  also  colored  with  im- 
medial  sulphur  colors  to  shades  re- 
quired and  dyed  in  the  piece  with 
wool  colors. 

BROWN. 

Two  per  cent  anthracene  chrome 
brown  D  W;  1  per  cent  anthracene 
acid  brown  G;  %  per  cent  anthracene 
yellow  B  N;  3  per  cent  oil  vitriol. 
Afterchrome,  li/^  per  cent  chrome. 
PEARL. 

One-quarter     per     cent     anthracene 
chrome  blue  G;   1  per  cent  oil  of  vit- 
riol.   Afterchrome,  2  ounces  bichrome. 
SLATE. 

One  per     cent  anthracene     chrome 
blue    G;    %    of   an    ounce    anthracene 
yellow  B  N;   2  per  cent  oil  of  vitriol. 
Afterchrome,  1  per  cent  bichrome. 
MODE. 

Four  ounces  anthracene  chrome 
blue  G;  2  ounces  anthracene  chrome 
red  A;  1^^  ounces  anthracene  yellow 
B  N;  2  per  cent  oil  of  vitriol.  After- 
chrome, 1  per  cent  bichrome. 
SNUFF  BROWN. 

One-half  per  cent  anthracene 
chrome  red  A;  li/^  per  cent  anthra- 
cene chrome  brown  D;  1^  per  cent 
anthracene  yellow  B  N;  %  per  cent 
anthracene  chrome  blue  F;  3  per  cent 
oil  of  vitriol.  Afterchrome,  1^^  per 
cent  bichrome. 

GREEN. 

Three  per  cent  anthracene  chrome 
blue  G;  1  per  cent  brilliant  milling 
green  B;  li^  per  cent  anthracene  yel- 


low B  N;  4  per  cent  oil  of  vitriol.    Af- 
terchrome,  2    per   cent   bichrome. 
WINE. 

Two  per  cent  wool  red  B;  1  per 
cent  anthracene  chrome  blue  R;  3 
per  cent  acetic  acid;  1  per  cent  oil  of 
vitriol.  Afterchrome,  1  per  cent  bi- 
chrome. 

SAGE. 

Two  ounces  anthracene  chrome 
blue  B  B;  2  ounces  anthracene  yel- 
low B  N;  1-16  ounce  anthracene  red 
A;  1  per  cent  oil  of  vitriol.  After- 
chrome,  1   per   cent  bichrome. 


SHADE  aOTH.  , 

Shade  cloths  for  window  shades, 
window  curtains  or  window  blinds 
derive  their  name  from  the  use  to 
which  they  are  intended  to  be  subject- 
ed. They  comprise  a  large  variety 
of  counts,  widths,  weights  and  quali- 
ties. The  lower  grades  are  made 
from  low  to  medium  qualities  of  stock, 
extending  to  the  usual  grades  of  print 
cloth  fabrics.  Better  grades  are 
made  in  all  grades  of  cotton  to  the 
best  Egyptian  and  Sea  Island. 

The  widths  vary  from  a  few  inches 
for  small  door  and  house  windows  to 
three  or  four  yards,  or  more,  for  large 
plate  glass  store  windows.  The  gen- 
eral run  of  goods  is  of  medium 
width.  The  narrow  shades  are  made 
by  cutting  a  wider  cloth  in  two  or 
more  sections  or  narrow  widths.  For 
example,  a  shade  cloth  finishing  54 
inches  wide  might  be  cut  in  three 
strips,  each  of  which  would  be  18 
inches  in  width.     The 

MEDIUM-WIDTH  GOODS 
are  woven  in  one  width,  with  two  sel- 
vedges only,  one  on  each  side.  It  is 
not  necessary  to  have  special  sel- 
vedges for  each  width  (for  cloth  to  be 
cut  up  into  two  or  more  widths)  be- 
cause the  sizing  or  filling  put  on  to 
and  into  the  goods  during  the  finish- 
ing process  prevents  the  edges  from 
unraveling  for  a  considerable  time 
after  they  have  been  cut  if  they  are 
handled  with  due  care. 

The  wide  shade  cloths  are  usually 
considerably  heavier  in  proportion 
than  the  narrow  goods  on  account  of 
the  extra  hard  usage  to  which  they 
are    subjected. 

THE  DISTINGUISHING  FEATURE 
of  these  goods  is  in  the  smooth,  pol- 
ished and  firm  appearance  of  the 
same   after   ^hey   have   been   finished. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


307 


They  are  usually  finished  in  white  or 
solid  colors,  or  with  a  printed  head- 
ing in  addition. 

The  cloth  basis  of  the  shade  may 
be  any  one  of  many  of  the  plain  wov- 
en cloths  that  have  been  described, 
with  the  possible  extension  in  width 
as  noted. 

A  shade  cloth  under  consideration 
has  a  plain  cloth  for  a  basis  of  the 
following  construction:  Width,  44 
inches;  ends  per  inch,  G4;  picks  per 
inch,  64;  length,  100  yards;  weight, 
3%  yards  per  pound;  warp  counts, 
22s;  filling  counts,  24s.  The  finished 
width  of  this  cloth  is  42  inches. 
LOOM    REQUIRED. 

The  loom  required  will  vary  in 
slight  details  according  to  the  weight 
and  width  of  cloth  required.  For  nar- 
row goods  the  automatic  or  quick  run- 
ning plain  looms  will  answer  all  re- 
quirements, the  weave  being  plain  in 
all  cases,  with  one  warp  and  one  fill- 
ing only  required. 

The  principal  change  necessary  to 
weave  wide  fabrics  is  in  placing  two 
or  more  warps  in  the  loom,  end  to  end, 
instead  of  one  large  beam.  These  sec- 
tional warps  are  run  on  shells  instead 
of  solid  beams.  The  rod  running 
through  them  all  is  supported  on  bear- 
ings between  every  two  shells,  as  well 
as  at  the  ends,  when  in  the  loom. 

Combining  warps  in  this  manner  ob- 
viates the  necessity  of  having  to  pre- 
pare them  on  a  very  wide  slasher, 
which  would  otherwise  be  necessary 
to  accommodate  the  wide  beam,  as 
well  as  overcomes  the  difl!iculty  caus- 
ed by  long  beams  warping  and  getting 
out  of  true. 

FINISHING. 

The  cloths  are  woven  white,  then 
piece-dyed  in  the  color  or  tint  requir- 
ed. 

One  method  of  finishing  42-inch 
shade  goods  is  as  follows:  Shear  and 
singe  on  both  sides  so  that  all  loose 
fibres  are  dispensed  with;  wash, 
bleach,  dye,  mangle  and  dry.  After 
being  cooled,  run  through  a  damping 
machine  and  allow  to  remain  in  a 
damp  state  for  a  short  time,  then 
stretch  on  the  belt-stretching  machine 
to  43  inches  in  width,  after  which  fill 
on  the  friction  starch  mangle  with 
the  following  mixture:  Maize  or 
cornstarch,  100  pounds;  oleine  oil,  50 
per  cent,  two  quarts;  carbolic  acid, 
one-half  pint.  Water  suflBcient  to 
make,  when  boiled,  100  gal- 
lons. After  filling,  dry  on 
drying  machine  and  allow  to  cool; 
run  through  damping  machine  and  al- 
low to  lie  at  least  two  hours.  Run 
through     wide     or     Scotch     hydraulic 


mangle;  strip,  turn  and  repeat  the 
process.  Strip,  run  through  canroy 
machine. 

For  white  shade  cloth  the  dyeing 
process  is  not  necessary.  Fancy 
shade  cloths,  in  addition  to  the  proc- 
esses noted,  are  run  through  a  print- 
ing machine  for  the  purpose  of  receiv- 
ing a  pattern  at  one  end  of  each 
shade.  The  color  or  tinsel  applied  is 
of  a  firm  character.  The  patterns  are 
printed  every  so  often  in  the  piece,  ac- 
cording to  the  length  of  shade  re- 
quired, and  extend  from  side  to  side. 

Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

For  carding  and  spinning  particu- 
lars the  reader  is  referred  to  the  warp 
data  in  the  article  on  "Buckram," 
and  to  the  filling  data  in  the  article  on 
"Book    Muslin." 

Dyeing   Particulars. 
These  goods  are  dyed  on  the  jig  in 
rolls  of  about  10   pieces   of  50   yards, 
with   sulphur  colors. 

ECRU. 
One-half  per  cent  immedial  cutch  G; 
Vs  per  cent  immedial  yellow  D;   1  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;  1  per  cent  soda 
ash;   20  per  cent    salt;     afterchromed 
with  Vz  per  cent  chrome. 
OLIVE. 
One  per  cent  immedial  yellow  D;   2 
per  cent  immedial   dark  green   B;     2 
per  cent  immedial  olive  B;  5  per  cent 
sulphide  sodium;  2  per  cent  soda  ash; 
25  per  cent  salt;    afterchrome  with  1 
per  cent  chrome. 

NAVY  BLUE. 
Ten  per  cent  immedial  blue  B;  2  per 
cent  immedial   indone  R;    12  per  cent 
sulphide   sodium;    2   per   cenz   caustic 
soda;   25  per  cent  salt. 

DARK   GREEN. 
Ten  per  cent  immedial  green  B  B; 
10  per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  2  per  cent 
caustic  soda;    25  per  cent  salt. 
MAROON. 
Ten  per  cent   immedial   maroon   B; 
10  per  cent  sulphide  of  sodium;   2  per 
cent  caustic  soda;    25   per  cent  salt; 
aftertreat  with  1  per  cent  chrome. 
SLATE. 
One  per  cent  immedial  black  N  L  N; 

1  per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  1  per  cent 
caustic  soda;  10  per  cent  salt;  after- 
treat  with  %  per  cent  chrome. 

RED. 
Eight  per  cent  diamine  fast  red  F; 

2  per  cent  sal  soda;  30  per  cent  salt; 
aftertreat  with  1^^  per  cent  fluoride  of 
chrome. 

BROWN. 
Five  per  cent  immedial  brown  B;   5 


308 


A    COTTON   FABRICS  GLOSSARY 


per  cent  immedial  brown  G;  10  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;  2  per  cent  caus- 
tic soda;  25  per  cent  salt;  aftercln'ome 
with  IV2  per  cent  chrome. 


BISHOP'S  LAWN. 


Bishop's  lawn  is  a  fine,  plain  woven 
fabric,  slightly  lighter  in  weight  than 
linen  or  India  linon.  It  is  a  white 
fabric  with  a  blue  tint  and  is  princi- 
pally used  for  light  dresses  and  un- 
derskirts. 

Like  a  great  many  other  plain  cot- 
ton goods,bishop's  lawn  varies  slightly 
in  weight,  count  and  quality,  but  the 
latter  is  usually  very  good. 

The  finish  and  blue  tint  seen  in 
these  goods  are  the  principal  charac- 
teristic features  which  distinguish 
them  from  other  fine  cotton  fabrics. 
A  cloth  of  the  same  construction  and 
quality  might  be  known  by  another 
name  if  finished  differently. 

The 

ANALYSIS 
of  a  bishop's  lawn  of  good  quality  in- 
dicates the  following  construction: 
ends  per  inch,  104;  picks  per  inch 
112;  warp  counts,  100;  filling  counts, 
120;   finished  width,  27  inches. 

The  ground  of  the  fabric  is  reeded 
two  ends  per  dent.  The  selvedge  is 
neat,  the  yarns  being  arranged  in  a 
somewhat  unusual  manner.  From  the 
ground  cloth  outwards,  they  are  as 
follows: 

12  ends  singles  in  four  dents;  24 
ends  as  12  in  six  dents;  8  ends  as  2  in 
one  dent;  total,  44  selvedge  ends  in 
11  dents  on  each  side. 

The  selvedge  and  ground  ends  are  of 
the  same  counts. 

CALCULATIONS. 

To  find  number    of  ends    in    warp: 

104  (sley)  divided  by  2  (ends  per  dent) 
equals  52  dents  per  inch;  52x27 
(width)  equals  1,404  dents  occupied  by 
warp;  1,404 — 22  for  selvedges  equals 
1,3S2  dents  for  gro-md;  1,382x2  equals 
2.764  ground  ends  plus  88  selvedge 
ends  total    2,852  ends. 

To  find  width  in  reed,  assuming  10 
per  cent  shrinkage  from  warp  to  fin- 
ished cloth:  ^27  inches  divided  by  .90 
or  90  per  cent  equals  30  inches  in  reed. 

To  find  weight  of    warp,     assuming 

105  yards  of  warp  for  100  yards  of 
cloth : 

2,852  (ends)  x  105  (length) 


To  find  weight  of  cut: 

3.565  lbs.    warp. 
3.333  lbs.  fiUine. 

6.898  lbs.  weight  of  100  yard  cut. 

To  find  number  of  yards  per  pound: 


6,898 
yards 


100  (length)  divided  by 
(weight)  equals  14.49,  say  14y^ 
per  pound. 

LOOM   REQUIRED. 

This  fabric  may  be  woven  on  any 
of  the  light  running  cam,  single-box, 
looms.  One  beam  only  is  required. 
On  account  of  the  large  number  of 
ends  per  inch, care  should  be  taken  not 
to  have  a  coarser  twine  harness  than 
is  absolutely  necessary.  If  diflBculty 
is  experienced  with  crowded  heddles 
and  ends,  the  cone  motion  may  be  sub- 
stituted for  the  cams  with  advantage. 
FINISHING. 

After  being  prepared  and  bleached 
in  the  ordinary  manner,  the  goods  are 
opened  out  to  the  full  width  and  run 
through  a  light  stai'ch,  blued  to  suit 
requirements,  on  a  starch  mangle,  and 
dried.  They  are  then  dampened,  cal- 
endered on  a  "swissing"  or  "rolling" 
calender,  folded  and  made  up  as  re- 
quired. 


Carding    and    Spinning    Particulars. 

Bishop's  lawn  is  made  in  mills  hav- 
ing the  equipment  of  machinery  as 
given  in  the  third  division,  i.  e.,"  ma- 
chines for  making  fine  counts  of  yarns. 
On  this  class  of  goods  the  sampling  of 
the  cotton  as  to  grade  and  staple  is  a 
very  important  part  in  thefinished  fab- 
ric. The  counts  of  the  yarn  of  the 
sample  of  the  cloth  taken  for  descrip- 
tion are  for  the  warps  100s  and  for  the 
filling  yarn  120s.  For  these  counts 
the  cotton  used  would  be  Sea  Island 
and  the  staple  1%  inches.  Every  bale 
should  be  graded  and  stapled  before  it 
is  allowed  to  be  put  into  the  mixing, 
and  this  mixing  should  be  allowed  to 
stand  as  long  as  possible  and  also 
should  be  as  large  as  (convenient.  For 
this  class  of  cotton  it  would  be  better 
if  it  were  opened  and  put  through  a 
blower  and  then  sent  through  a  line  of 
trunking,  so  that  it  would  be  dried  out 
as  much  as  possible  before  being  work- 
ed. 

ONLY   TW^'O    PROCESSES 
of  pickers  and  an  opener  are  used  for 
this  cotton,  because  it  should  have  as 
little   beating   as   possible  to   get   the 


=  3.565   lbs.    warp    In   IM        yards   cloth. 
100  (counts)  X  840 

To  find  weight  of  filling  in  100  yardsof  cloth: 

112    (picks)    X    lOO   (length)    x    SO    (width    In    reed) 


120  (counts)   X  840 


3.333  lbs.  filling. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


309 


dirt  out.  The  usual  iustructious  tiiat 
have  already  been  given,  relative  to 
the  opener  and  pickers,  snould  be  fol- 
lowed. The  speed  of  the  breaker  beat- 
er (which  should  be  of  a  two-bladed 
rigid  type)  should  be  1,850  revolutions 
per  minute,  and  the  lap  in  front  should 
weigh  29  pounds.  These  laps  are  put 
up  at  the  back  of  the  finisher  picker 
and  doubled  4  into  1.  'lae  speed  of 
this  beater  should  oe  1,200  revolutions 
per  minute,  which  gives  the  cotton 
passing  through  about  29  beats  or 
blows  per  inch.  For  this  class  ol  goods 
it  is  not  the  general  custom  to  mix  in 
cut  waste.  The  picker  room  should 
be  looked  after  to  see  that  all  the 
eveners  are  working  properly  and  to 
try  and  make  laps  that  don't  split.  In 
order  to  do  this,  look  after 

THE    DRAFTS 

to  see  that  they  are  putting  the  cotton 
passing  through  the  picker  in  the 
proper  place.  At  the  finisher  picker 
the  laps,  as  they  are  taken  cff,should 
be  weighed,  and  all  those  having  a  va- 
riation of  half  a  pound  either 
side  of  standard  should  not  be  al- 
lowed to  be  put  up  at  the  card,  but 
should  be  run  over  again.  The  total 
weight  of  a  lap  at  the  finisher  should 
be  30  pounds  or  a  10-ounce  lap.  These 
laps  are  put  up  at  the  card.  This  card 
should  be  set  close  at  the  points  be- 
tween the  cylinder  and  doffer  and  cyl- 
inder and  flats  and  also  between  the 
cylinder  and  licker-in,  but  between  the 
licker-in  and  feed  plate  the  setting 
should  be  so  that  the  distance  between 
the  bite  of  the  feed  roll  and  teeth  of 
the  licker-in  is  just  a  little  greater 
than    the   length   of  the  staple.     It   is 

A  GENERAL  FAULT 
of  carders  to  set  these  two  parts  the 
same  for  all  lengths  of  staple,  and  this 
should  be  looked  after  and  remedied, 
because  if  the  proper  distance  is  not 
maintained  between  these  parts  the 
stock  will  be  shorter  in  length  at  the 
front  (if  set  too  close),  or  will  not  be 
properly  carded  (if  set  too  far  apart). 
For  long-staple  cotton,  some  over- 
seers claim  that  it  is  an  advantage  to 
reduce  the  speed  of  the  licker-in.  Their 
reason  for  so  doing  is  that  they  claim 
that  the  licker-in  is  nothing  more  or 
less  than  a  beater,  and  if  we  slow 
down  the  beater  for  long-staple  cotton, 
why  not  slow  down  the  licker-in  in  the 
same  proportion?  The  wire  fillet  used 
on  the  cylinder  should  be  No.  110s.  or 
No.  34s  wire,  and  for  the  doffer  and 
top   flats   No.    130s.   or   36s  wire.     The 

SPEED   OF  THE  FLATS 
should  be  one  complete  revolution  ev- 


ery 38  minutes  and  the  licker-in  30 
revolutions  per  minute.  Tue  cards 
should  be  stripped  three  times  a  day, 
and  ground  at  least  once  a  munin.  The 
hats  should  be  ground  so  as  lo  always 
have  a  sharp  needle  point.  If  possi- 
ble, the  flats  should  be  taken  otf  and 
ground  on  a  flat  grinding  machine  and 
It  will  be  found  that  the  best  results 
will  be  obtained.  The  production  of 
a  card  for  a  week  of  GO  hours  should  be 
225  pounds;  the  weight  of  the  sliver, 
35  grains  per  yard;  the  draft  of  the 
card  being  125.  In  this  article,  we 
have  drafted  high  and  carded  light. 
In  some  cases,  for  this  kind  of  goods 
and  cotton,overseers  have  been  known 
to  draft  as  high  as  ISO,  which  makes 
our  draft  of  125  look  rather  small. 
After  passing  the  cards,  the  sliver  is 
put  through  either  a  line  of  drawing 
or  a  sliver  lap  machine,  according  to 
the  lay-out  of  the  mill.  In  mills  that 
are  now  being  built  and  in  the  old 
mills  that  are  installing  new  machin- 
ery, 

THE  COMBERS 
being  put  in  are  generally  of  the  eight- 
head  type,  having  laps  lOV^  inches 
wide.  The  weights,  etc.,  that  we  give 
in  this  article  will  be  for  the  older 
type  of  S%-inch-width  laps.  The 
weights  for  larger  laps  may  be  ob- 
tained by  proportion.  We  will  also  as- 
sume that  the  equipment  is  as  follows: 
Sliver  lap,  ribbon  lap  and  combers. 
The  doubling  at  the  sliver  lap  ma- 
chine is  14  into  1,  and  the  weight  of 
the  sliver  is  225  grains  per  yard.  At 
the  ribbon  lap  machine  the  doublings 
are  6  into  1,  the  weight  of  a  yard  of 
lap  being  200  grains  per  yard.  In 
some  mills,  the  sliver  laps  are  made  a 
little  heavier  and  only  five  doublings 
used  at  the  ribbon  lap.  When  this 
is  the  case,  the  weight  of  a  yard  of 
sliver  lap  is  270  grains  per  yard. 

For  the  top  leather  rolls  of  these  ma- 
chines use  a 

VARNISH 
as  follows:  Seven  ounces  gelatine 
glue,  one  quart  acetic  acid,  two  tea- 
spoons oil  of  origanium.  Color  with 
burnt  sienna.  In  dog-day  weather  or 
for  slippery  cotton  use  ground  char- 
coal and  gum  arable.  This  varnish 
may  be  also  used  for  the  drawing 
frames  and  comber  rolls  (both  detach- 
ing and  those  in  the  draw  box).  The 
laps  from  the  ribbon  lap  machine  are 
put  up  at  the  comber.  At  this  ma- 
chine the  percentage  of  waste  taken 
out  is  22  to  25.  The  speed  is  85  nips 
per  minute.  The  rolls  should  be  var- 
nished at  least  once  every  two  weeks, 
needles  picked  and  brushes  cleaned 
once  a     week.      Comber     percentages 


310 


A    COTTON   FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


should  be  taken  every  time  a  comber 
is  changed  from  one  stock  to  another 
land  the  percentage  of  four  every  day. 
Set  comber  same  as  for  Indian  lawn. 
The  weight  of  the  sliver  should  be 
about  35  grains  per  yard.  The  comb- 
er cans  should  be  put  up  at  the  back 
of  the  drawing  frame,  being  doubled 
6  into  1  at  both  the  breaker  and 
finisher.     The 

WEIGHT  OF  THE  SLIVER 
at  the  finisher  drawing  should  be 
65  grains  per  yard.  Watch  the  stop- 
motions  to  see  that  they  are  all  in 
proper  working  order  and  also  the 
roll  settings;  also  keep  the  rolls  well 
varnished.  At  the  slubber  the  draw- 
ing is  made  into  .SO-hank  roving,  after 
which  it  is  put  through  three  processes 
of  fly  frames.  At  the  first  interme- 
diate it  is  made  into  2.25  hank,  at  the 
second  into  5,  and  at  the  fine  frame  in- 
to 20  hank  for  warp  yarns;  for  filling 
yarns  the  slubber  and  first  would  be 
the  same  hank,  at  the  second  interme- 
diate the  hank  is  six  and  at  the  fine 
frame,  24  hank.  Watch  the  build  of 
the  bobbins,  the  lay,  twist  and  ten- 
sion. Also  keep  a  sharp  watch  on, 
double  and  single,  also  bunches.  Some- 
times the  slubber  and  first  intermedi- 
ate top  leather  rolls  are  varnished,  the 
varnish  used  being  a  little  lighter  than 
that  used  for  drawing  frames. 

THE  ROVING 
is  spun  into  lUOs  from  the  20-hank  rov- 
ing on  a  warp  frame  having  1%-inch 
diameter  ring,  o-inch  traverse,  and 
spindle  speed  of  9,400  revolutions  per 
minute.  This  yarn  is  then  spooled, 
warped  and  put  through  the  slasher,  at 
which  the  following  size  may  be  used: 
100  gallons  of  water;  75  pounds  pota- 
to starch;  7  pounds  tallow;  3  pounds 
Yorkshire  gum;  2  pounds  white  soap; 
Boil  two  hours  and  let  stand  10 
hours  before  using.  Keep  agitator  run- 
ning and  size  almost  at  boiling  point. 
The  24-hank  roving  is  made  into 
120s  yarn  on  the  mule. 


Dyeing   Particulars. 
PINK. 
One-half  per  cent  rose  B  D;    1  per 
cent  sal  soda;  10  per  cent  salt. 
SKY  BLUE. 
One-quarter  per  cent     diamine     sky 
blue  F  F;  1  per  cent  sal  soda;  10  per 
cent  salt. 

CREAM.    ' 
Two  gi-ains  diamine  catechine  3  G; 
1  per  cent  sal  soda;  10  per  cent  salt. 
ECRU. 
Two  per  cent  diamine  catechine  3  G; 


14  ounce  diamine  fast  yellow  B;  1  per 
cent  sal  soda;  10  per  cent  salt. 
PEA  GREEN. 
Two  ounces  diamine  green  B;   1  per 
cent  sal  soda;   10  per  cent  salt. 
RED. 
Five  per  cent  diamine  fast  red  F;  2 
per  cent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent  salt. 
SAGE  GREEN. 
One  per  cent  diamine  green  G;  1  per 
cent  sal  soda;    15  per  cent  salt. 
WINE. 
Four  per  cent  diamine  Bordeaux  B; 
2  per  cent  sal  soda;   25  per  cent  salt. 
SCARLET. 
Three   per  cent   diamine   scarlet   B; 
2  per  cent  sal  soda;  25  per  cent  salt. 
ROYAL    BLUE. 
Five  per  cent  diamine  sky  blue;    2 
per  cent  sal  soda;  25  per  cent  salt. 


ROBES. 


A  cotton  fabric  with  an  unglazed 
surface,  printed  on  one  side,  in  high- 
ly colored  patterns,  this  fabric  is  made 
up  into  robes,  wrappers  or  gowns, 
hence  the  name.  The  fabric  was  origi- 
nally produced  in  cashmere  effects, 
and  used  primarily  as  a  dress  fabric. 

This  fabric,  however,  resembles  in 
point  of  texture  and  general  appear- 
ance the  cloth  known  as  "cretonne," 
which  is  also  a  printed  cloth,  but  used 
principally  for  furniture  coverings, 
curtains,  comfortables  and  such  pur- 
poses. The  term  robes  is  applied  to 
both  twilled  and  plain  woven  fabrics. 
The  fabric  used  for  robes  is  usually 
made  from  a  64 -square  printing  cloth, 
or  its  equivalent,  while  the  fabric 
used  for  household  purposes  is  made 
from  various  textures. 

The 

CHARACTER  OF  PATTERNS 
for  robes  is  almost  without  limit,  but 
the  scale,  or  size  of  the  figure  in  the 
design,  however,  should  not  be  too 
large,  as  the  numerous  folds  would 
destroy  the  effect  of  the  repeat  of  the 
design.  The  designs  best  suited  for 
this  class  of  goods  are  small  floral  or 
geometrical  figures,  distributed  in  such 
a  manner  that  they  will  not  appear  in 
the  finished  garment  in  rows  or  lines, 
but  rather  in  an  all-over  effect,  so  that 
the  various  figures  constituting  the 
design  may  be  seen  at  a  glance. 

THE    COLORINGS 
may  be  almost  anv  conceivable   com- 


A    COTTON    FABRICS    GLOSSARY. 


311 


bination  imaginable, providing  of  course 
that  tliere  be  liarmony  in  the  col- 
ors used.  The  number  of  colors  used 
varies  from  4  to  10  different  shades, 
the  darker  colors  usually  forming  the 
background,  M'hile  the  lighter  and 
brighter   colors   form   the   figures. 

In  regard  to  the  construction  for 
these  fabrics  the  designer  has  little  in 
the  way  of  ingenuity,  the  important 
feature  of  the  goods  depending  on  the 
printing  machine. 

The  fabric  is  composed  of  plain 
cotton  yarn  with 

THE  COUNTS 
varying  very  little,  a  common  texture 
being  64  ends  and  64  picks,  of  l-30s 
both  warp  and  filling,  sometimes  ar- 
ranged 70  ends  and  58  picks,  another 
texture  being  made  with  64  tnds  and 
48  picks,  1-30S  warp  and  l-26s  filling, 
made  in  widths  from  27  to  36  inches. 

The  goods  are  woven  on  high  speed 
looms.  The  Northrop  loom  is  well 
adapted  for  this  class  of  goods.  The 
cost  of  weaving  is  an  important  con- 
sideration in  the  production  of  these 
goods,  as  the  retail  price  does  not  war- 
rant an  unnecessary  expense. 
FINISHING. 

The  goods,  after  being  woven,  are 
prepared  for  the  printer  by  boiling 
off,  then  passed  over  heated  cylinders 
to  dry.  after  which  they  are  ready  for 
printing.  After  the  printing  process 
they  are  ready  for  the  merchant. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

The  yarns  to  make  robes  are 
manufactured  in  the  first  division 
of  mills  as  given  in  a  previous 
article.  The  mixture  for  this  cloth 
varies  according  to  the  mill  making 
the  goods  and  also  the  quality  of  the 
goods  required  of  the  manufacturer. 
Generally  speaking,  there  is  a  certain 
percentage  of  waste  used  for  this 
class  of  goods,  and  not  only  the  per- 
centage diifers,  but  the  quality  of  the 
waste  used  also.  Some  mills 
will  use  only  comber  waste,  and  other 
mills  only  comber  and  card  waste, 
while  other  mills  will  use  any  kind  of 
waste  they  can  obtain,  and  run  it 
through.  The  mixing  plays  an  Impor- 
tant part  and  the  percentage  of  waste 
put  in  varies  from  10  to  100  per  cent. 
Production  and  plenty  of  it  is  the  cry 
of  the  owners  making  this  class  of 
goods.  This  being  the  case,  quality  is 
somewhat  lacking.  To  make  up  for 
this,  the  goods  are  brushed,  which  has 
a  twofold  advantage.     It  gives  a 

NAP 
to  the  goods,  as  well  as  hides  the  neps 


in  the  cloth.  When  good  raw  stock  la 
used,  the  length  of  staple  is  very  short, 
rarely  being  over  seven-eighths  of  an 
inch  in  length.  The  counts  for  the 
sample  of  cloth  under  description  are 
oOs  for  both  warp  and  filling.  The 
mixings  are  made,  as  before  stated, 
large  and  with  the  proper  proportion 
of  waste  mixed  in.  This  is  then  run 
through  three  processes  of  pickers.first 
being  run  through  an  opener.  This 
opener  has  a  fan,  which  makes  165  rev- 
olutions and  carries  the  cotton  to  the 
aprons  of  the  breaker  picker  and  leaves 
the  cotton  in  an  open,  airy  state.  This 
lattice  or  apron  carries  the  cotton  to  the 
feed  rolls  of  the  beater.  This  beater  is 
of  the  two-bladed  type  and  makes  1,500 
revolutions  per  minute.  The  proper 
drafts  should  be  maintained  at  both 
pickers,  so  that  a  hard  lap  will  be 
made.  There  are  several  methods  by 
which,  it  is  claimed,  the  laps  may  be 
made  and  will  run  off  smoothly  and 
without  licking,  but  as  near  as  can  be 
found  out  by  experimenting,  no  one 
remedy  will  fill  all  conditions.  Judg- 
ment at  this  point  is  needed.  The 
weight  of  a  full  lap  at  the  head  end  of 
the  breaker  picker  should  be  about  16 
ounces  per  yard.  These  laps  are  put 
up  at  the  intermediate  picker  and  dou- 
bled four  into  one.  This  picker  is 
equipped  with  a  two-bladed  rigid  type 
of  beater  and  has  a  speed  of  1,450  rev- 
olutions per  minute. 

THE   TOTAL  WEIGHT 

of  a  lap  from  this  machine  is  37 
pounds  or  a  10-ounce  lap.  These  laps 
are  put  up  at  the  finisher  picker  and 
doubled  four  into  one.  This  picker 
has  the  same  style  of  beater  as  the  oth- 
er two;  the  speed  is,  however,  slightly 
reduced,  being  1,375  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  total  weight  of  a  lap  is 
39  pounds,  or  a  1414-ounce  lap.  In 
some  mills  they  omit  the  intermediate 
process  of  pickers,  using  just  the 
breaker  and  finisher,  and  for  this  class 
of  goods  would  advise  two  processes 
of  picking.  The  laps  are  put  up  at  the 
card.  For  this  class  of  work  the  draft 
of  the  card  does  not  exceed  90  and 
very  often  is  not  more  than  85.  The 
card  fillet  used  on  both  the  doffer  and 
cylinder,  as  well  as  the  flats,  is  coarse. 
The  general  count  used  is  No.  33  wire 
or  No.  100s  for  cylinder  and  No.  35  or 
No.  120s  count  foi'  the  doffer  and  flats. 
The  settings  used  for  this  class  of 
work  are  similar  to  those  given  for  in- 
c;igo  prints.  The  speed  of  the  cylinder 
is  165  revolutions  per  minute;  licker- 
in,  350  revolutions  per  minute;  flats, 
one  complete  revolution  every  50  min- 
utes.   The  weight  of  the  sliver   is  65 


512 


A    COTTON    FABRICS    GLOSSARY 


grains  per  yard,  and  the  production  is 
from  S50  to  1,000  pounds  per  week  of 
60  hours,  according  to  the  quality  and 
quantity  required. 

THE  CARD 
for  this  class  of  worlv  should  be  ground 
once  a  month  and  stripped  twice  a  day, 
although  in  some  instances  the  doffer 
is  stripped  a  third  time.  The  waste  ta- 
ken out  should  not  exceed  8  per  cent. 
After  leaving  the  card  tne  sliver  is 
put  through  two  processes  of  drawing, 
the  doublings  at  the  breaker  being  six 
into  one,  and  at  the  finisher  six  into 
one.  The  weight  of  a  yard  of  sliver  is 
75  grains.  The  speed  of  the  front  roll 
largely  depends  on  the  call  for  draw- 
ing, and  the  manner  in  which  the  room 
is  balanced.  As  frequently  happens, 
the  drawing  frame  is  the  machine  to 
get  an  increase  in  speed  so  as  to  keep 
up  with  the  slubbers  or  cards,  and  to 
do  so  the  speed  of  the  front  roll  is 
increased.  The  speed  varies  from  325 
to  450  revolutions  per  minute,  accord- 
ing to  requirements.  As  the  drawing 
frame  is  the  last  machine  that  can 
really  be  said  to  even  the  silver,  care 
should  be  taken  to  see  that  all  stop- 
motions  are  in  pex-fect  working  order, 
and  that  they  act  quickly  so  as  to  pre- 
vent an  end  passing  through  before  the 
frame  stops.  Whole  sets  of  drawing 
or  card  sliver  should  not  be  put  up  at 
the  back  of  the  frame,  because  it  tends 
to  make  uneven  varu.  If  a  size  at  the 
front  be  taken  when  the  tops  of  a 
can  are  running  through,  it  will  be 
found  to  be  heavier  than  the  standard; 
the  middle  about  the  standard,  and 
when  the  can  is  almost  empty  it  will 
size  light.  If  the  cans  are  equipped 
with  springs,  it  will  help  overcome 
this  defect  to  a  large  extent,  and  it 
will  also  help  to  stop  the  "breaking 
back"  of  the  ends. 

THE  DRAWING 
is  put  up  at  the  back  of  the  slubber 
and  made  into  .60-hank  roving,  after 
which  it  passes  through  two  processes 
of  fly  frames  and  is  made  into  2-hank 
roving  at  the  intermediate,  and  6  at 
the  fine  frame.  The  proper  lay  of  the 
roving  on  the  bobbin  is  14  rows  per 
inch  for  the  2  hank,  and  33  lays  per 
inch  for  the  6  hank  roving.  Twist  jack 
roving  so  that  it  will  bear  its  own 
weight  when  put  in  the  creels  at  the 
successive  machines.  Be  particularly 
careful  about  single, double  and  bunch- 
es. Sizing  should  be  accomplished 
at  the  picker  as  follows:  Every  fin- 
isher lap  should  be  weighed  and  if 
the  weight  varies  more  than  half  a 
pound,  either  side  of  standard  weighty 
it  is  put  back  to  be  run  over  again. 


The  cards  should  be  sized  once  a  week. 
The  drawing  frarae  finisher  should  be 
sized  four  times  a  day.  and  a  varia- 
tion of  two  grains  to  the  yard  either 
side  of  standard  should  mean  a  change. 
The  fine  roving  is  sized  once  a  day 
and  there  is  no  hard  and  fast  rule  for 
changing. 

The  6-hank  roving  is  spun  into  30s 
warp  yarn  on  the  spinning  frame,  two 
into  one,  on  a  frame  having  a  1%-inch 
diameter  ring,  234-inch  gauge  of  spin- 
dle, 6%-inch  traverse,  and  a  spindle 
speed  of  10,000  revolutions  per  min- 
ute. As  soft  a  twist  as  possible  is  used 
so  that  it  will  nap  well.  The  yarn  is 
next  spooled  and  warped,  and  run 
through  a  slasher.  The  6-hank  roving 
for  the  filling  yarn  is  spun  into  30s 
filling  at  the  mule,  as  it  requires  a 
soft  twist,  for  reasons  before  stated. 
After  being  spun  it  is  taken  to  the 
conditioning  room  and  remains  there 
until  wanted  for  use. 


Dyeing    Particulars. 
NAVY    BLUE. 

Ten  per  cent  immedial  indone  blue  2 
B;  10  per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  4  per 
cent  soda  ash;  30  per  cent  salt. 
GREEN. 
Eight  per  cent  immedial  green  G  G; 
8  per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  4  per  cent 
soda  ash;  30  per  cent  salt. 
RED. 
Six  per  cent  diamine  fast  red  F;    2 
per  cent  sal  soda;    30  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's;   aftertreai  with  2  per  cent  fluo- 
ride of  chrome. 

YELLOW. 
Five  per  cent  immedial  yellow  G  G; 
5    per   cent   sulphide    sodium ;    30    per 
cent  salt;  4  per  cent  soda  ash. 
OLIVE. 
Four  per  cent  immedial  olive  3  G; 

4  per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  30  per 
cent  salt;  3  per  cent  soda  ash. 

BROWN. 
Five    per   cent   immedial   brown   B; 

5  per  cent  immedial  cutch  O;  10  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;  4  per  cent  so- 
da ash. 

MYRTLE  GREEN. 
Eight  per  cent  immedial  dark  green 
B;   8  per  cent  sodium  sulphide;   4  per 
cent  soda  ash;   30  per  cent  salt. 
ORANGE. 
Ten   per   cent   immedial   orange    C; 
10   per   cent   sodium    sulphide;    4    per 
cent  soda  ash;  30  per  cent  salt. 
BORDEAUX, 
Ten  per  cent  immedial  Bordeaux  G;: 


A    COTTON    FABRICS    GLOSSARY. 


313 


10  per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  4  per  cent 
soda  ash;   40  per  cent  salt. 
SLATE. 
One  per  cent  immedial  black  N  N; 
2  per  cent  soda  ash;   1  per  cent  sodi- 
um sulphide;   25  per  cent  salt. 
ECRU. 
One  per  cent  Immedial  cutch  G;   % 
per  cent  immedial  yellow  D;  2  per  cent 
sodium   sulphate;    25  per  cent  salt. 
BLACK. 
Six  per  cent  immedial  brilliant  black 
5  B  V;  6  per  cent  sodium  sulphide  ;  4 
per  cent  soda  ash;   50  per  cent  salt. 


BENGAL  STRIPES. 


Bengal  stripes  is  a  name  given  to  a 
type  of  gingham  consisting  rtf  white 
and  colored  stripes,  alternately  ar- 
ranged in  small  effects  in  reguLir  order, 
the  colored  yarn  having  been  dyed 
with  Bengal  indigo. 

They  were  originally  made  in  Ben- 
gal, India,  the  home  of  some  of  the 
many  species  of  the  plant  from  which 
indigo  is  extracted,  Indigo  Fera,  and 
derive  their  name  from  that  fact.  They 
differ  from  some  other  types  of  strip- 
ed ginghams  only  in  having  colored 
warp  yarns  that  have  been  dyed  with 
Bengal  indigo. 

INDIGO 
has  been  used  as  a  dyestuff  for  hun- 
dreds of  years  and  has  attained  a  rep- 
utation for  itself  that  is  responsible 
for  a  continued  call  for  indigo-dyed 
goods  in  the  market,  although  similar 
appearing  goods  may  be  made  much 
more  cheaply  with  modern  aniline 
dyes.  Goods  dyed  with  the  latter 
possess  more  merit  than  most  of 
the  so-called  indigo-dyed  goods,  the 
colors  of  which  do  not  penetrate  be- 
yond the  surface  of  the  yarns. 

Indigo  dyeing,  if  done  properly,  re- 
quires more  time  than  is  now  thought 
advisable  or  necessary  to  devote  to 
any  ordinary  class  of  dyed  goods  and 
has  been  substituted  to  a  very  large 
extent  by  anilines.  The  amount  of  in- 
digo used  has  been  steadily  growing 
less  for  a  numbc  of  years,  and  it  ap- 
pears probable  that  there  will  be^V^ry 
little  of  it  used  in  the  commercial 
world  a  few  years  hence. 

USES  OF  BENGAL  STRIPES. 

Bengal  stripes  are  used  principally 
for  skirtings,  aprons,  etc.  Fig.  1  is  an 
illustration  of  a  typical  fabric,  the 
analysis  of  which  shows  it  to  be  an 
article  that  can  be  depended  upon  to 
wear  well. 


The  warp  yarns  are  arranged  8  of 
blue  and  4  of  white,  alternately,  the 
filling  being  all  white.  The  white 
yarn  in  both  warp  and  filling  has  been 
bleached  before  being  woven.  The 
blue  warp  yarn  was  dyed  in  the  skein 
with   Bengal   indigo. 

The  fabric  illustrated  is  practically 
a  warp   face  cloth,     the     warp     yarn 


Fig.  1. 

showing  very  prominently  in  alternate 
blue  and  white  stripes,  whereas  the 
filling  is  almost  hidden.  Several  fac- 
tors tend  to  produce  this  effect,  among 
which  may  be  mentioned,  first  that  two 
out  of  every  three  ends  are  raised  on 
each  pick,  the  weave  being  the  3-end 
warp  flush  twill  to  the  left  (Fig.   2) ; 

■  DB 
■■D 
DBS 

Fig.  2. 

second,  that  the  warp  yarns  are  hard- 
er twisted  than  the  filling  yarns  and 
are  approximately  twice  as  heavy; 
third  that  the  cloth  contains  consid- 
erably more  ends  than  picks  per  inch. 
ANALYSIS. 

An  analysis  of  the  fabric  shows  the 
following  construction  data:  Finished 
width,  29.7  inches;  ends  per  inch.  67.2; 
picks  per  inch,  48;  warp  pattern,  8 
blue  and  4  white;  warp  counts,  9s;  fill- 
ing counts,  16s;   \ards  per  pound,  2.5. 

Perhaps  the  simplest  method  of 
counting  the  number  of  ends  per  inch 
in  a  stripe  pattern,  and  the  most  ac- 
curate, is  to  count  the  number  of 
ends  in  each  pattern;  or  if  the  latter 
is  small,  count  several  patterns  on  a 
given  width  and  calculate  accordingly. 

For  example,  there  are  12  ends  per 
pattern  in  Fig.  1  and  7  patterns  on  1^ 
inches. 

7  (ends)  x  12  (patterns) 

=  S7.2  ends  per  Inch. 

1.25  (Inches) 


314 


A    COTTON    FABRICS    GLOSSARY. 


The  greater  the  width  measured  and 
the  number  of  patterns  counted,the  less 
the  liability  of  error.  When  the  full 
width  of  cloth  is  available  for  analy- 
sis purposes,  it  is  advisable  to  measure 
and  count  the  whole  number  of  com- 
plete patterns,  omitting  sections  of 
patterns  and  selvedges. 

The  layout  of  the  entire  warp  is  as 
follows: 

White  White 

for  sel-  for 

vedges.  ground.      Blue. 
10  as  9 

H 

4  5    164    times    =        e56 

10  as  9  =         10 

676        1,320 
676+1,320  =  1,996  ends   In   the  warp. 

The  selvedge  ends. with  the  exception 
of  the  two  outer  ends  on  each  side,  are 
drawn  single.  The  two  ends  at  each 
side  are  drawn  together  as  one. 

The  entire  164  complete  patterns  in 
the  above  warp  layout  occupy  29% 
inches  in  the  cloth. 


White.  Blue. 
=         10 


1,312 


12  X  164 
29.25 


=  67.2    ends    per   Inch. 


LOOM  REQUIREt). 
These  goods  may  be  woven  on  sin- 
gle box  cam  or  dobby  looms,  the  for- 
mer preferred.  Six  harnesses  would  be 
necessary  if  wire  heddles  were  used  on 
a  dobby  loom,  whereas  three  twine 
harnesses  would  be  sufficient.  The 
ends  are  drawn  in  straight  and  the 
selvedges  drawn  the  same  as  the 
ground  yarns,  one  end  through  each 
heddle  and  three  ends  per  dent. 

FINISHING. 
There  is  practically  no  finish  given 
these  goods,  beyond     burling,     brush- 
ing and  making  up. 


Carding    and    Spinning    Particulars. 

The  yarns  of  which  Bengal  stripes 
are  made  are  manufactured  in  mills  of 
the  first  division  as  given  in  a  pre- 
vious article.  The  method  of  mixing 
the  cotton  in  these  mills  would  prob- 
ably be  by  hand.  In  the  up-to-date 
mills,  however,  openers  are  employed, 
especially  if  a  large  amount  of  cot- 
ton is  used.  The  method  generally 
used  in  such  a  case  is  to  have  several 
high-sneed  openers  attached  in  a  row 
the  cotton  being  delivered  on  an  end- 
less apron,  which  carries  it  to  a  blow- 
er. This  fan  blows  the  cotton  to  the 
picker  room  to  a  condenser,  which  in 
turn  deposits  the  open  cotton  upon  an 
endless  apron,  which  runs  over  the 
mixing  bins.  At  every  bin  there  is  a 
chute  which,  when  dropped,  allows  the 
cotton  to  be  dropped  into  the  bin. 


AN  IMPORTANT  POINT 
to  look  out  for,  when  this  method  is 
used,is  the  danger  of  fire.  Bythis  meth- 
od the  cotton  is  thoroughly  opened 
and  may  be  used  as  fast  as  delivered, 
as  it  is  in  a  loose,  fluffy,  dried-out  con- 
dition. The  number  of  openers  used 
is  according  to  the  amount  of  cotton  re- 
quired by  the  mill.  When  this  method 
is  employed, the  good  sliver  up  to  the 
slubber  is  put  into  the  centre  hopper. 
This  insures  a  thorough  and  uniform 
mixing  of  this  waste,  which  is  alwaj'^s 
the  "bugbear"  of  cotton  mills.  The 
stock  used  for  Bengal  stripes  varies 
according  to  the  quality  of  cloth  de- 
sired, but  generally  a  %-inch  to  1  inch 
staple  is  used.  An  opener  and  two 
processes  of  picking  are  used. 

THE  HOPPER 
of  the  opener  should  be  well  filled  and 
is  connected  directly  with  the  breaker 
picker.  The  speed  of  this  beater,  which 
is  of  the  three-bladed  rigid  type,  is  1,- 
400  revolutions  per  minute.  In  this 
breaker  picker  there  are  two  beaters 
and  two  sets  of  cages.  The  forward' 
beater  is  a  two-bladed  beater  and 
the  speed  of  this  is  also  1,400  revolu- 
tions per  minute.  The  total  weight  of 
a  lap  at  the  front  end  is  40  pounds  or 
a  20-ounce  lap.  The  picker  tenders 
generally  allow  this  lap  to  be  made  as 
large  as  possible,  but  the  weight  per 
yard  remains  the  same.  These  laps 
are  put  up  at  the  finisher  picker  and 
doubled  4  into  1.  This  picker  is 
equipped  with  either  a  two-bladed  rig- 
id or  a  pin  beater;  in  either  case  the 
sneed  is  1,4.50  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  total  weight  of  the  lap  is  46 
pounds  net  for  a  52-yard  lap,  or  about 
a  14^-ounce  lap.    This  lap  is  put  up 

AT  THE  CARD, 
the  draft  of  which  should  not  exceed 
100.  The  speed  of  the  cylinder  should 
be  165  revolutions  per  minute;  licker- 
in.  375  revolutions  per  minute, and  flats 
one  complete  revolution  every  45  min- 
utes (110  flats).  The  fillet  of  the  cyl- 
inder should  be  No.  33s  wire  or  100s 
and  for  the  doffer  and  top  fiats  No. 
343  wire  or  110s.  The  cards  should  be 
set  and  ground  the  same  as  given  for 
indigo  prints.  The  cards  should  be 
stripped  three  times  a  day  of  10^ 
hours.  The  weisht  of  the  sliver  per 
yard  should  be  55  grains  and  the  pro- 
duction 900  pounds  for  a  week  of  60 
hours.  This  sliver  is  put  through  two 
processes  of  drawing,  six  ends  up  at 
both  the  breaker  and  finisher  draw- 
ing. The  weight  of  the  sliver  is  75 
grains  at  the  finisher.  The  speed  of 
the  front  roll  is  400  revolutions  per 
minute.     The  drawing  should  be  sized 


A    COTTON    FABRICS    GLOSSARY. 


315 


three  times  a  day.  For  this  class  of 
work  either  metallic  or  leather  cov- 
ered top  rolls  may  he  used,  but  in  eith- 
er case  should  be  looked  after  to  see 
that  they  are  ip  perfect  condition. 
Watch  the 

STOP-MOTIONS 

to  see  that  they  are  in  perfect  work- 
ing condition,  and  that  the  frame 
tenders  do  not  block  them  up  with  cot- 
ton to  keep  them  from  working.  The 
drawing  sliver  is  now  put  up  to  the 
slubber,  where  it  is  made  into  .40- 
hank  roving.  Be  careful  to  set  the 
bottom  steel  rolls  properly, so  as  to  ob- 
tain the  best  results,  and  watch  the 
twist  and  tension.  The  slubber  roving 
is  made  into  1  hank  for  warp  and  1.20 
hank  for  filling  at  the  first  interme- 
diate and  at  the  second  or  (in  this 
case)  the  five  frame  is  made  into  2.25 
hank  for  the  warp  and  3.50  for  the 
filling  yarn.  These  rovings  are  then  ta- 
ken to  the  spinning  room  and  at  the 
warp  frame  made  into  9s  on  a  frame 
having  a  3%-inch  gauge,  2%-inch  di- 
ameter ring  and  a  7-inch  traverse. 
This  is  then  spooled,  warped  and  put 
through  a  slashtr.  The  roving  for 
filling  is  spun  into  16s  on  a  filling 
frame  having  a  GVo  to  7-inch  traverse, 
1%-inch  diameter  ring  and  a  2%-inch 
gauge.     This  yarn  is  then  conditioned. 


TURKEY  RED, 


Turkey  red  is  a  name  given  to  fab- 
rics that  have  been  subjected  to  the 
Turkey  red  dyeing  process.  They  are 
usually  cloths  constructed  with  the 
plain  or  small  twill  weaves,  and  are 
found  in  various  widths.  They  are 
used  for  signal  flags,  dress  goods  and 
for  many  other  purposes  where  a 
bright  red  color  that  will  withstand 
severe  tests  of  light,  wear  and  weath- 
er is  required.  The  analysis  of  two 
characteristic  fabrics  shows  the  fol- 
lowing   construction    data: 

Sample  1.  Plain  weave;  64 
ends  and  52  picks  per  inch; 
30s  yarn  in  both  warp  and  filling. 
A  fabric  of  tliis  type  could  be  woven 
on  either  automatic  or  ordinary  plain 
cloth  looms. 

Sample  2.  Three  end  twill  weave, 
for  ground;  GO  ends  and  72  picks  per 
inch;  36s  warp  for  the  ground  of  the 
cloth,  and  2-3Gs  warp  for  the  selvedg- 
es; 24s  filling.  The  ground  of  this 
sample  is  drawn  one  end  in  each  hed- 


aam 
ama 

■DO 


Fig.  L 


Dyeing   Particulars. 
BLUE. 
Eight  per  cent    immedial     indogene 
<j  C  L  cone;   10  per  cent  sulphide  so- 
dium; 4  per  cent  soda  ash;  30  per  cent 
Glauber's  salt. 

BLACK. 
Ten  per  cent  immedial  black  N  R  T; 
10  per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  4  per  cent 
soda  ash;  30  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 

BROWN. 
Five  per  cent  immedial  cutch  0;    5 
per  cent  immedial  brown  B  R;  10  per 
-cent  sulphide  sodium;  4  per  cent  soda 
ash;   30  per  cent  Glauber's  salt. 

OLIVE. 
Five   per  cent  immedial   olive  B;   5 
per  cent  sulphide  sodium;   25  per  cent 
fialt;  3  per  cent  soda  ash. 

DARK   GREEN. 
Ten  per  cent  immedial     dark    green 
B;  10  per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  30  per 
cent  salt;  4  per  cent  soda  ash. 

:\rAROON. 
Eight  per  cent  immedial  maroon  B; 
8  per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  4  per  cent 
soda  ash;   30  per  cent  salt. 


Fig.    2. 

die  and  three  ends  in  each  dent.  The 
selvedges  weave  two  ply  ends  as  one, 
2  picks  in  each  shed  (Fig.  2), 
with  catch  thread  on  the  out- 
side, and  are  reeded  2  ends 
per  dent.  The  two  ply  ends,  as  one, 
represent  4  single  strands  of  yarn  in 
each  dent.  There  are  16  ply  yarns  in 
each   selvedge. 

It  would  be  advisable  to  weave  a  fab- 
ric of  this  character  on  a  dobby,  in 
l)reference  to  a  cam  loom,  because  of 
the  difference  in  weave  of  selvedges  and 
ground.  The  former  being  on  4  and 
the  latter  on  3  picks  necessitates  12 
picks  before  they  repeat  together. 
Six  harnesses  would  be  required  for 
the  ground  ends,  and  3  for  the  sel- 
vedge ends,  one  of  which  would  be  for 
the  catch  thread. 

CALCULATIONS. 

In  analyzing  the  twill  fabric,  a  piece 
21/^  X  4  inches  was  found  to  weigh 
12  grains,  i.  e.,  10  square  inches 
weigh  12  grains. 

12  divided  by  10  equals  1.2  grains 
l)er  square  inch. 

The  average  number  of  the  yarn  was 
found   as   follows:    66    (ends)    plus   72 


31 C 


A    COTTON    FABRICS    GLOSSARY. 


(picks)  equals  138  inches,  w-hich 
weigh  1.2  grains.  138  divided 
by  1.2  equals  115  inches  per 
grain.  115  plus  10  per  cent 
(for  take  upt  equals  126  inches  of 
yarn  per  grain.  126  times  .2314  equals 
29.1,  say  29,  average  number. 

Bv  comparing  the  relative  sizes  of 
the  "yarns,  warp  and  filling,  by  cross- 
ing and  twisting  them,  it  was  found 
that  18  ends  of  warp  were  of  the  same 
diameter  as  12  picks  of  filling. 

Assuming  the  warp  counts  to  be 
36s,  the  filling  counts  were  found  as 
follows: 

138  (sum  of  sley  and  pick)  divided 
by   29    (average    number)    equals   4.76. 

66  (sley  or  ends  per  inch)  divided 
by  36  (warp  number)  equals  1.83; 
total  2.93. 

72  (picks)  divided  by  2.93  equals 
24.5,  say  24,  filling  required. 

Carding  and  Spinning   Particulars. 

The  counts  of  the  yarns  of  which 
Turkey  red  is  made  vary  according  to 
the  quality  desired.  The  stock  being 
used  also  varies  in  length  of  staple  and 
also  grade.  In  one  of  the  samples  tak- 
en for  this  article  the  warp  yarn  is 
l-36s  and  the  filling  yarn  is  l-24s.  For 
these  yarns  and  quality  of  cloth 
the  staple  of  the  cotton  used  would  be 
15-16  of  an  inch  in  length  and  of  a 
good  grade. 

THE  MACHINERY  USED 
would  be  found  in  the  second  division 
of  mills  as  given  in  a  previous  article. 
All  bales  of  cotton  should  be  graded 
and  sampled  before  being  put  into  the 
mixing  and  all  tliose  not  up  to  grade 
and  length  of  staple  should  be  placed 
one  side  and  not  used  in  the  mixing. 
If  the  mill  is  up-to-date  or  of  a  recent 
construction  the  method  of  mixing 
would  be  as  described  in  the  last  arti- 
cle. In  older  mills  the  cotton  would 
be  mixed  by  hand.  If  the  latter  meth- 
od is  employed,  the  mixing  should  be 
made  from  as  many  bales  as  possible 
and  allowed  to  stand  as  long  as  pos- 
sible to  dry  out. 

PERIODS  OF  MIXING 
of  course  vary  according  to  the  output 
of  the  mill  in  which  the  cloth  is  made. 
If  space  is  plenty,  which  is  not  gen- 
erally the  case,  a  double  mixing  should 
be  made,  one  mixing  being  used  while 
the  other  is  drying  out,  thus  insuring 
that  green  cotton  is  not  used.  The  cot- 
ton is  then  put  through  an  opener  and 
three  processes  of  picking.  The  hop- 
per of  the  opener  should  always  be 
kept  at  least  half  full  of  cotton  and 
the  lifting  apron   should  work  easily 


and  care  should  be  taken  to  see  that 
the  slats  are  all  whole.  The  pin  beat- 
er should  be  adjusted  so  as  to  feed 
the  proper  amount  of  cotton  to  the 
breaker  picker.  This  picker  is  gener- 
ally of  a  combination  type,  having  two 
sets  of  beaters  and  two  sets  of  cage3. 
The  breaker  beater  speed  is  about  1,- 
400  revolutions  per  minute,  and  is  of  a 
three-bladed,  rigid  type.  The  forward 
beater  is  generally  of  a  two-bladed, 
rigid  type,  and  its  speed  is  1,400  revo- 
lutions per  minute.     The 

WEIGHT  OF  THE  LAP 
at  this  picker  is  40  pounds,  or  a  16- 
ounce  lap.  These  laps  are  put  up  at 
the  intermediate  picker  and  doubled 
4  into  1.  This  machine  has  a  single 
beater  of  two  blades,  rigid  type,  the 
speed  of  which  is  1,425  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  weight  of  lap  at  this  ma- 
chine is  38  pounds  or  a  12-ounce  lap. 
These  are  put  up  at  the  finisher  piclser 
and  doubled  4  into  1.  The  weight  of 
a  lap  at  the  head  end  of  this  frame  Is 
48  pounds  or  a  14^/4-ounce  lap.  In  the 
picker  room  care  should  be  taken  to 
see  that  the  drafts  are  properly  reg- 
ulated and  that  the  eveners  are  work- 
ing properly,  and  also  that  the  cotton 
is  thrown  upon  the  top  cage  to  help 
prevent  splitting  laps.  Every  lap 
should  be  weighed  and  a  variation  of 
one-half  pound  either  side  of  stand- 
ard weight  is  allowed.  All  laps  vary- 
ing over  or  under  this  allowance 
should  be  put  back  and  run  over  again. 
Roving  waste  is  mixed  in  the  good 
cotton  in  many  ways,  one  of  which  has 
been  previously  given.  The  laps  are 
then  put  up  at  the  card.  At  this  ma- 
chine the  speed  of  the  licker-in  should 
be  375  revolutions  per  minute.  The 
flats  should  make  one  complete  revo- 
lution every  45  minutes.  The  wire 
fillet  used  should  be  No.  33  or  100  for 
cylinder  and  No.  35  or  120s  for  the 
doffer  and  top  flats. 

THE  CARD  SETTINGS 
should  be  the  same  as  given  in  a  pra- 
Yious  article  on  indigo  prints.  Strip 
three  times  a  day  for  a  lOi/^-hour  day 
and  grind  at  least  once  a  month.  Keep 
the  flats  free  from  fly  and  all  quick 
motions  well  oiled,  especially  the  main 
c}  Under  bearings,  which,  if  not  proper* 
ly  attended  to.  beat  up  and  cau.=;e  blis- 
tering. The  draft  of  this  card  should 
be  about  100;  the  weight  of  the  sliver  is 
60  grains  per  yard  and  tbe  production 
is  700  pounds  for  a  week  of  60  hours. 
Watch  the  wire  fillet  to  keep  it  sharp. 
For  this  sample  we  will  consider  the 
yarns  to  be  combed.  When  this  is 
the  case,  the  sliver  is  taken  from  the 
card   and   put   through   the  sliver  lap 


A    COTTON    FABRICS    GLOSSARY. 


317 


machine,  ribbon  lap  machine  and  the 
comber,  or  it  may  be  taken  from  the 
card  and  put  through  a  process  of 
drawing,  sliver  lap  and  then  to  the 
comber. '  We  will  consider  the  former 
method.  Here  again  a  great  deal  de- 
pends on  the  size  and  make  of  comber 
being  used.  For  this  article  we  will 
take  the  older  styles  of  six-head,  8%- 
inch  lap,  combers.  The  weight  of  a 
yard  of  lap  at  the  sliver  lap  machine 
(doublings  being  14  into  1)  would  be 
29.5  grains.  At  the  rib'oon  lap  machine 
the  doublings  would  be  6  into  1,  and 
the  weight  of  lap  260  to  275  grains 
per  yard.  The  laps  are  put  up  at  the 
combers  and  doubled  G  into  1.  The 
weight  of  the  sliver  is  48  grains  per 
j^ard.  Sixteen  per  cent  of  waste  is 
taken  out  at  the  comber.  The  comber 
sliver  is  next  put  through  two  proc- 
esses of 

DRAWING  FRAMES. 
The  weight  of  a  yard  of  sliver  at  the 
finisher  is  70  grains  and  the  doublings 
6  into  1  at  each  process.  Size  four 
times  a  day  and  don't  skip  a  size.  This 
sliver  is  put  up  at  the  slubber  and 
made  into  .60  hank  roving.  For  the 
warp  yarn  this  is  put  through  two 
processes  of  fly  frames;  at  the  flrst  in- 
termediate it  is  made  into  2.25  hank 
and  at  the  fine  into  7.50  hank.  This  is 
taken  to  the  ring  frame  and  spun  into 
36s  on  a  frame  with  a  2%-inch  gauge, 
1  9-16-inch  diameter  ring,  and  a  6-inch 
traverse,  the  spindle  speed  being  9,600 
revolutions  per  minute.  The  yarn  is 
then  taken  and  spooled,  warped  and 
slashed. 

The  slubber  roving  for  the  filling  is 
also  put  through  two  processes  of  fly 
frames.  At  the  first  intermediate  it 
is  made  into  2  hank  and  at  the  sec- 
ond into  5  hank,  after  which  it  is  spun 
into  ?)0>5  filling  yarn  on  a  frame  with  a 
2%-lnch  gauge,  1%-inch  diameter  ring, 
6-inch  traverse,  and  spindle  speed  of 
7,350  revolutions  per  minute.  This 
yarn  is  then  taken  and  conditioned. 


Dyeing    Particulars. 

The  dyeing  of  Turkey  red  has  been 
handed  down  from  generation  to  gen- 
eration for  the  last  500  years,  and  pos- 
sibly long  before  that  time.  The  city 
of  Adrianople,  and  also  the  city  of 
Salonica,  were  formerly  famous  for 
this  celebrated  color.  It  is  not  so  an- 
cient as  indigo  blue,  because  the 
clothes  around  mummies  in  Egypt 
2,000  years  B.  C.  have  indigo  colors 
on  them.  The  original  Turkey  red 
was  a  process  of  long  duration.  Thir- 
ty days  were  often  consumed  before 
the  finished  cloth  or  yarn  was  pro- 
duced. 


The  cloth  was  oiled  in  olive  oil, 
dried,  and  hung  up  in  long  chambers 
for  some  days,  to  age  the  goods,  and 
fix  the  oil  in  the  fibre.  The  goods 
were  then  oiled  again,  and  aged,  the 
process  being  repeated  several  times. 

The  short  process  of  Turkey  red  is 
to  oil  with  a  solution  of  Turkey  red 
oil,  20  per  cent,  and  then  dry.  Oil 
again  and  dry,  and  allow  to  re- 
main for  a  few  hours  in  that 
state,  and  pass  through  a  solu- 
tion of  acetate  of  alumina  at 
li  degrees  Tw.  Dry  in  hot  air 
and  pass  through  a  dunging  bath 
of  cow  dung  and  bi-arseniate  of 
soda.  Tnis  process  will  take  away 
the  surplus  mordant  from  the 
cloth,  and  fix  the  alumina  in  the 
fibre.  The  cloth  is  well  washed  in 
water,  and  then  dyed  with  about  15 
per  cent  alizarine  red  paste,  4  per 
cent  bullock's  blood,  IVa  per  cent  nut- 
galls,  and  enough  acetate  of  lime  to 
correct  the  water. 

The  goods  are  dyed  for  one  hour, 
and  well  rinsed,  dried  and  passed 
through  a  solution  of  Turkey  red  oil, 
about  5  per  cent,  dried,  and  steamed 
for  one  hour.  The  goods  are  then  well 
soaped  in  a  strong  bath  of  hot  soap, 
and  well  rinsed,  and  finished  as  re- 
quired. 


LAMP  WICKING, 


Lamp  wicking  is  usually  constructed 
of  coarse  low-grade  cotton  yarns. 
There  are  three  general  forms  or 
types:  braid  wicking,  flat  wicking  and 
round,  hose  or  tube  wicking. 

They  are  made  in  sizes  varjring  from 
a  small  fraction  of  an  inch,  in  the 
braid  and  flat  types,  for  miners'  and 
similar  lamps,  to  several  inches  in 
width,  in  the  flat  and  round  types,  for 
large  oil  lamps  and  stoves. 

The  principal  objects  sought  to  be 
secured  in  these    goods    are  strength, 


mzmaa 
DDmas 

■ODDS 
Fig.  1. 


FBFTBFBFTBf  Bl- 

■aaciHDaGBBnB 

DDBBDDDB5^L-DB 
■BBDOaBBCCBBB 
BaDfflDBDaffiCBDD 
A  A  A  A 

G  times 

Fig.  2. 


□CBDDDBDDDBnagBDDDBaG^BDDDBDg 
■■■DBBBaBBBDBBBDBBBaBBBDBBBDB 
BQDDBaDDBnaDBDaDBDDnBDCDBDDDB 

aaBBaaBaaoBBBaBBBDBBBaaBBaBBB 

A         A         AA         AA         AAA 


Fig.  3. 

thickness       and       moisture-absorbing 
qualities. 


318 


A    COTTON    FABRICS    GLOSSARY. 


BRAID  WrCKING. 

This  differs  from  a  solid  braid,  as  in 
braided  rope  and  clothes  lines,  in  hav- 
ing a  core  of  very  soft,  coarse  roving, 
around  which  have  been  braided  finer 
yarns  of  a  good  strength  and  quality. 
There  are  10  strands  of  roving  for  the 
core  and  32  ends  of  fine  2-ply  mercer- 
ized yarn  for  the  braided  covering. 
The  latter  imparts  the  requisite 
strength  to  the  fabric,  while  the  other 
desirable  qualities  are  furnished  by  the 
roving.  This  wick  is  so  constructed 
that  the  core  could  be  withdrawn 
without  interfering  with  the  construc- 
tion of  the  covering.  There  are  about 
72  yards  per  pound. 

FLAT  WICKING. 

There  are  three  methods  adopted  for 
making  heavy,  thick  fabrics:  First,  by 
means  of  coarse  yarns;  second,  by 
means  of  compound  structures  of 
clotn;  third,  by  combining  the  first  and 
second  methods. 

Flat  lamp  wicking  requires  an  extra 
large  surface,  one  deeper  than  can  or- 
dinarily be  obtained  by  using  coarse 
yarns  in  a  single  weave  structure.  It 
is  usually  woven  with  coarse  warp 
yarns  and  comparatively  fine,  strong 
filling  yarns,  with  double  plain  weaves 
of  equal  structure  arranged  1  and  1 
in  both  warp  and  filling,  the  two  single 
fabrics  being  bound  together  into  one 
compound  fabric  by  other  yarns, 
termed  ties  or  binders,  which  interlace 
with  both  with  more  or  less  frequency. 
Where  as  firm  a  structure  as  is  pos- 
sible is  wanted,  the  ties  are  arranged 
as  extras  to  work  the  single  plain 
weave,  as  shown  by  the  crosses  in  Fig. 
1.  This  entire  figure  is  the  base  weave 
upon  which  the  design  for  this  wick- 
ing has  been  constructed.  Ends  1  to  4, 
repeated,  would  form  a  tube  or  hose 
pipe  fabric,  the  picks  going  first  into 
one  cloth  and  then  the  other  on  alter- 
nate picks.  Solid  type  shows  the  face 
weave,  type  n  the  back  weave,  type 
face  ends  raised  when  back  picks  are 
inserted.  Back  ends  are  depressed  on 
picks  1  and  3,  when  face  picks  are  in- 
serted. The  complete  weave  is  shown 
in  Fig.  2,  and  is  on  38  ends  and  4  picks. 
Letter  F  indicates  face  ends.  B  in- 
dicates back  ends.  T  indicates  ties.  The 
arrows  indicate  where  the  ends  are 
divided  by  the  reed,  eight  dents  being 
used. 

The  construction  data  of  this  wick- 
ing is  as  follows:  Warp,  2-ply  5s  cot- 
ton; filling,  2-ply  15s  cotton;  width,  % 
Inch;  ends  in  wick,  38,  of  which  seven 
are  ties;  picks  per  inch,  ISVz.  The 
warp  contains  very  little  twist  in  the 
single  strands  and  only  five  turns  per 
Inch  in  the  ply  yarn.  There  are  not 
any  selvedges  such  as  are  usually  made 
on  other  types  of  goods. 


ROUND,  HOSE  OR  TUBE  WICKING. 

This  wicking  has  been  made  with 
weave  Fig.  3,  with  two  ends  working  to- 
gether as  one.  An  examination  of  this 
will  show  that  it  is  constructed  on  the 
same  principle  as  the  first  four  ends  of 
Fig.  1,  the  two  cloths  being  tied  only 
at  the  sides  where  the  filling  changes 
from  interlacing  with  one  series  of 
ends  to  the  other  series  every  pick. 
The  arrows  indicate  where  the  ends 
are  reeded.  The  two  outer  dents  on 
each  side  contain  only  four  ends  eacli, 
whereas  the  remainder  of  the  warp  is 
reeded  six  ends   (3  doubles)   per  dent 

The  construction  of  this  wickingi  is 
as  follows:  Warp,  2-ply  5s  cotton  soft 
twisted;  filling,  3-ply  15s  cotton;  width, 
1%  inches;  ends  in  wick,  106  as  53; 
picks  per  inch,  28;  yards  per  pound,  15. 
The  warp  yarns  are  arranged  52  ends 
of  white  and  1  of  blue,  repeated  once. 

LOOM  REQUIRED. 

For  braid  wicking  a  braiding  ma- 
chine is  required.  For  fiat  and  round 
wicking,  narrow  ware  cam  looms,  vary- 
ing in  construction  according  to  the 
weight  and  width  of  wicking  to  be 
woven,  are  used. 

For  the  narrow  wicking  an  ordinary 
tape  loom  may  be  used,  in  which  each 
wicking  has  its  separate  warp  or  warps. 
The  warps  for  wide  wicking  are 
usually  run  on  wide  beams,  and  the 
yarn  divided  in  tbe  loom.  In  order  to 
make  a  soft  wicking  on  these  the  ty- 
ing ends  are  run  from  a  beam  as  in 
an  ordinary  loom.  The  other  yarns 
are  run  from  one  or  two  separate 
beams,  and  are  regulated  by  an  at- 
tachment wTiich  draws  them  forward 
in  a  positive  manner  in  order  to  avoid 
the  strain  usually  caused  when  the 
yarn  has  to  draw  the  beam  forward. 

Each  of  the  fabrics  under  considera- 
tion has  been  woven  from  one  beam. 
In  the  flat  wicking  the  plain  ends  work 
tighter  than  the  other  ends  on  account 
of  the  larger  number  of  interlacings. 
This  causes  them  to  sink  below  the 
plane  occupied  by  the  double  cloth 
ends  and  also  causes  the  latter  to  be 
and  appear  somewhat  loose. 
FINISHING. 

There  is  practically  no  finishing 
given  these  goods,  as  they  are  simply 
cut  into  definite  lengths  and  packed, 
after  being  woven.  The  yarn  for  some 
of  the  wicking  is  bleached  or  dyed  be- 
fore being  woven.  Where  colored 
yarns  are  used,  they  are  usually  ar- 
ranged in  the  warp  to  make  a  striped 
fabric. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Manufacturers  of  wicking  generally 
buy   their   yarns     from     cotton     yarn 


A    COTTON    FABRICS    GLOSSARY. 


319 


mills  and  it  is  in  this  latter  class  of 
mills  that  coarse  and  tine  counts  of 
yarns  are  made.  Generally  speaking, 
the  so-called  yarn  mills  do  not  belong 
to  any  of  the  divisions  of  mills  given 
in  a  previous  article,  but  are  rather 
in  a  class  or  division  by  themselves, 
being  ready  and  equipped  to  fill  orders 
for  all  counts  of  yarn,  either  carded  or 
combed.  Of  course  there  are  yarn 
mills  making  a  specialty  of  fine  yarns, 
but,  generally  speaking,  this  class  of 
mills  make  yarn  for  the  knitting 
trade,  which  as  a  rule  does  not  call 
for  as  high  counts  of  yarn  as  a  fine 
goods  mill. 

In  this  class  of  mills  a  great  many 
MORE  CHANGES 
are  made  than  in  mills  making  cloth, 
some  of  the  latter  mills'  card  rooms 
running  from  one  year's  end  to  the 
next  without  a  change  in  the  hank  rov- 
ing or  stock,  whereas  in  the  yarn  mills 
changes  are  made  daily.  This  is  on  ac- 
count of  filling  the  orders  for  small 
knitting  plants,  of  which  there  are  a 
great  number  throughout  the  country. 
Generally  speaking,  more  care  has  to 
be  used  in  a  yarn  miil  than  in  a  cloth 
mill,  both  on  account  of  the  many 
changes  and  also  on  account  of  the 
yarn  being  sold  and  not  woven  in  the 
same  mill,  where  the  smaller  defects 
may  be  covered.  Of  course,  in  both 
mills  the  yarn  should  run  as  even  as 
possible,  but  this  fault  should  be  look- 
ed after  particularly  in  yarn  mills.  In 
yarn   mills 

THE  TWIST 
of  the  yarn  is  less  than  in  cloth  mills, 
and  this  class  ot  mills  is  generally 
equipped  with  mules  instead  of  spin- 
ning frames  to  obtain  this  result.  Par- 
ticular care  should  be  taken  in  yarn 
mills  to  see  that  no  "mix-ups"  occur 
in  any  part  of  the  card  room  on  ac- 
count of  the  carelessness  of  those 
changing  the  gears,  and  it  is  a  good 
idea  to  have  specially  prepared  forms 
to  be  filled  out  when  each  change  is 
made  at  the  slubbers,  fly  frames  and 
mules  or  spinning  frames.  After  these 
forms  are  made  out  by  the  one  mak- 
ing the  change,  they  should  be  handed 
in  and  checked  by  the  overseer. 

For  making  the  tube  wicking,  the 
counts  of  the  yarn  are  as  follows:  2-ply 
5s  warp  soft  twist  and  3-ply  15s  regu- 
lar twist,  while  the  filling  or  centre 
portion  or  core  is  made  up  of  2-ply 
1  hank  roving.  These  counts  of  yarn 
are  all  made  from  the  same 

STAPLE   AND   GRADE 
of  cotton,  generally  cotton  from  %  to  1 
inch  in  staple  of  a  good  grade  being 


used.  In  large  mills  an  opening  shed 
is  built  and  the  cotton  is  opened  and 
fed  to  the  opener  hoppers  or  feeders, 
several  being  placed  in  a  row  and 
from  here  blown  over  to  the  mill  prop- 
er, where  it  is  received  and  carried 
by  arrangements  of  endless  belts  to  its 
proper  bins.  When  the  cotton  is  thus 
opened  it  is  in  a  dry,  fluffy  state  and 
may  be  used  at  once  and  does  not  have 
to  stand,  as  is  the  case  when  the  cot- 
ton is  mixed  by  the  hand  method, 
which  has  been  previously  described. 
The  cotton  is  put  through  a  feeder 
and  three  processes  of  pickers.  The 
feeder  picker  should  always  be  kept 
filled  up  with  cotton,  so  that  the  lift- 
ing apron  will  always  be  filled  up. 
The  breaker  beater  is  equipped  with 
two  sets  of  cages  and  two  beaters.  The 
breaker  beater  has  three  arms  and 
blades,  and  its  speed  is  1,400  revolu- 
tions per  minute. 

THE  FRONT  BEATER 
has  two  blades  and  its  speed  is  also  1,- 
400  revolutions  per  minute,  but  it  must 
be  remembered  that  the  cotton  does 
not  receive  as  much  beating  as  it  does 
at  the  three-bladed  beater,on  account  of 
having  one  less  blade.  The  weight  of  a 
yard  of  lap  at  the  machine  is  16  ounces. 
On  the  breaker  picker  there  is  no  'even- 
er  and  the  amount  of  cotton  fed  is 
regulated  by  the  distance  of  the  pin 
or  stripping  beater  from  the  lifting 
apron.  The  laps  from  this  machine 
are  put  up  and  doubled  4  into  1  at  the 
intermediate  picker. 

This  picker  is  generally  equipped 
with  a  two-bladed  beater,  its  speed 
being  1,400  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  weight  of  a  yard  of  lap  at  the 
front  is  12  ounces.  This  picker  has  an 
evener,  which  should  be  looked  after 
carefully  to  see  that  it  is  doing  Its 
duty.  The  laps  from  this  picker  are 
put  up  at  the 

FINISHER  PICKER, 
and  doubled  4  into  1.  This  picker  may 
be  equipped  with  either  a  two-bladed 
rigid  beater  or  a  pin  beater  which  has 
three  arms  equipped  with  pins.  If  the 
latter  beater  is  used,  the  speed  for  this 
style  should  be  1,400  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  weight  of  a  50-yard  lap 
should  be  46  pounds  or  a  14.7-ounce 
per  yard  lap. 

Every  lap  should  be  weighed  and  a 
variation  of  one-half  a  pound  either 
side  of  standard  allowed.  All  laps 
which  vary  more  than  this  should 
be  put  back  to  be  run  over  again.  Care 
should  be  taken  to  see  that  every  lap 
is  weighed,  and  if  laps  do  not  weigh 
within  the  limit,  the  evener  should  be 


A    COTTON    FABRICS    GLOSSARY. 


adjusted  to  allow  the  next  lap  to  come 
within  this  weight  limit.  These  laps 
are  put  up  at  the  card,  the  draft  of 
which  should  not  exceed  100.  The 
speed  of  the  flats  should  be  one  revolu- 
tion every  40  minutes  (110  flats);  the 
speed  of  the  licker-in  300  revolutions 
per  minute  and  the  doffer  about  l^Vz 
revolutions  per  minute.  The  gener- 
al instruction  for  settings,  grind- 
ing and  stripping  given  previously 
nia\»  be  followed.     The 

PRODUCTION  OF  A  CARD 
for  60  hours  for  this  class  of  work  is 
850  pounds  and  the  weight  of  the  sliver 
65  grains  per  yard.  If  the  yarn  is 
combed,  it  passes  through  the  sliver 
lap  machine,  where  it  is  doubled  16  in- 
to 1  for  an  8%-inch  lap,  the  weight  per 
yard  being  420  grains.  These  laps  are 
put  up  at  the  ribbon  lap  machine  and 
doubled  6  into  1.  The  weight  of  a 
yard  of  lap  at  this  machine  is  440 
grains  for  a  10%-iDCh  lap.  The  rib- 
bon lap  machines  should  be  sized 
twice  a  day  and  a  variation  of  seven 
grains  per  yard  allowed  before  chang- 
ing the  draft  gear.  These  laps  are 
put  up  on  an  8-head  comber  and  dou- 
bled 8  into  1.  The  weight  of  a  yard 
of  sliver  at  the  delivery  end  of  this 
machine  should  be  about  65  grains  per 
\ard. 

THE  SAME  SETTINGS 
and  timing  for  this  machine  may  be 
used  as  have  been  given  previously  for 
a  6-head,  8%-inch  lap  comber  of  the 
Heilman  type  of  combers.  The  per- 
centage of  waste  taken  out  is  18.  This 
sliver  is  then  put  through  two  process- 
es of  drawing,  the  weight  at  the  fin- 
isher drawing  being  70  grains  per  yard. 
If  the  cotton  is  not  combed,  three 
processes  of  drawing  frames  are  used, 
the  weight  of  the  sliver  being  the  same 
as  when  combed.  Size  drawing  four 
times  a  day,  allowing  two  grains  either 
side  of  standard  weight.  The  draw- 
ing sliver  is  next  put  through  the  slub- 
ber and  made  into  .40  hank  roving. 
From  here  it  is  passed  to  the  first  in- 
termediate fiy  frame  and  made  into  1 
liank  roving.  The  roving  for  the  core 
is  twisted  slightly  more  than  that  used 
for  the  warp  and  filling  yarns,  gener- 
ally 1  or  2  less  teeth  used  on  the 
twist  gear  being  sufficient.  The  rov- 
ing for  the  core  is  then  twisted  into  2- 
ply.  For  the  warp  yarn  the  yarn  is 
soft  spun  at  the  mule  into  5s  yarn  and 
then  twisted  into  2-ply  yarn.  For  the 
filling  yarn  the  first  intermediate  rov- 
ing requires  one  more  process  of  fly 
frames,  which  makes  it  into  3-hank 
roving.  This  is  taken  either  to  the 
mule  room  or  the  spinning  room  and 


spun  into  lo.^-,  after  which  it  is  twisted, 
being  made  into  2-ply  15s  yarn. 

The  rules  and  instructions  for  the 
top  rolls  given  in  previous  articles  may 
also  be  applied  to  this  article. 


EOLIENNE, 


Eolienne  is  the  name  applied  to 
a  fine  dress  fabric  characterized  by 
having  the  filling  of  a  much  coars- 
er count  than  the  warp,  and 
in  consequence  producing  a  cord- 
ed effect  aci'oss  the  breadth  of  the 
goods.  This  class  of  goods  is  made 
up  of  a  raw  silk  warp  and  either  cot- 
ton or  worsted  filling,  with  the  warp 
ends  per  dmch  greatly  in  excess  of  picks 
per  inch. 

In  fabrics  constructed  on  this  basis 
THE    WARP    THREADS 
practically   cover  the  filling  and  pro- 
duce— with  a  sdlk  warp — a  very  glossy 
fabric,  another  feature  of  an  eolienne. 

This  fabric  finds  favor  with  the  fem- 
inine sex  practically  the  year  around, 
being  very  popular  for  dressy  indoor 
occasionts  in  the  cooler  periods  of  the 
year,  as  well  as  dressy  outdoor  wear 
for  summer. 

The  goods  are  made  up  in  the  gray, 
then  dyed  in  tlie  piece,  in  any  color 
that  the  trade  desires.  The  darker 
shades  find  most  favor  for  fall  and 
winter  use,  while  the  lighter  shades 
are  preferred  for  summer  wear.  Eo- 
lienne 

VARIES  IN  WIDTH. 
The  cotton  filling  fabric  finishes  at  27 
inches,  while  the  better  grade  worsted 
filling  finishes  at  40  inches  and  retails 
at  from  85  cents  to  $1.25  per  yard  and 
the  narrow  cotton  filling  fabric  retails 
at  from  25  to  45  cents  per  yard.  The 
variation  in  pnice  is  naturally  in- 
fiuenced  by  the  material  in  the  goods, 
that  is,  the  ends  and  picks  per  inch, 
consequently  we  find  a  comparatively 
wide  range  in  the  construction  of  these 
fabrics.  The  manufaoturer,  however, 
must  bear  in  mind  that  the  fabrics 
should  be  perfectly  firm  in  order  to 
withstand  the  wear  of  a  dress  fabric. 

PLAIN  WOVEN  FABRICS 
lend  themselves  more  readily  to  a  va- 
riation in  texture  with  a  g'iven  count 
of  yarns  than  does  any  other  method 
of  interlacing  warp  and  filling  threads, 
this  being  due  to  plain  woven  fabrioa 
having  more  intersections  to  the  repeat 
of  the  weave  than  any   other  weave. 

In  varying  the  texture,  we  must  bear 
in  mind  the  nature  of  the  material  to 


A    COTTON    FABRICS    GLOSSARY. 


321 


be  used,  as  certain  kinds  of  yarns  re- 
quire less  ends  per  incli  than  others  of 
a  given  count  to  produce  a  firm  fab- 
ric. In  the  construction  of  an  eolienne 
which  is  made  up  of  a  sillc  warp,  silk, 
being  the  smoothest  of  textile  fibres, 
would  require  more  threads  per  inch 
than  a  fabric  composed  of  woolen 
fibres,  as  the  silk  threads  will  not  cling 
to  one  another  or  full  up  in  the  finish- 
ing as  would  a  fabric  composed  of 
woolen  fibres;  consequently  silk  warp 
fabrics  usually  have  a  very  high  warp 
texture. 

ANALYSIS. 

Ootton  filling  fabrics:  Width  of 
warp  in  reed,  30  inches;  width  of  fab- 
ric finished,  28  inches;  ends  per  inch 
in  reed,  90;  ends  per  inch,  finished,  96. 

Reed,  45x2. 

Silk  warp,  21-23S  dennier  silk;  cotton 
filling,  2-50s  combed  cotton;   5S  picks. 

WORSTED  FILLING  EOLIENNE. 

Width  of  warp  in  reed,  44  inches; 
width  of  fabric,  finished,  40  inches; 
ends  per  inch  in  reed,  150;  ends  per 
inch,  finished,  166. 

Reed,    50x3. 

Silk  warp,  21-23s  dennier  sdlk;  total 
number  of  ends  in  warp,  C,600;  40  ends 
additional  each  side  for  selvedge,  80; 
total,  6,680  ends. 

Worsted  filling,  l-50s  French  spun; 
picks  per  inch,  64. 

These  fabrics  may  be  woven  on  any 
light,  smooth  running  roller  or  dobby 
loom.  The  warp  is  drawn  straig'ht  on 
eight  harnesses  through  French  string 
heddles.  The  speed  of  the  loom  may 
with  advantage  run  from  130  to  140 
picks  per  minute. 

FINISHING. 

Eolienne  requires  little  in  this  re- 
spect. After  the  goods  reach  the  dye 
house,  they  are  boiled  off,  then  dyed  as 
desired,  run  through  the  rotary  press 
and  made  up  into  laps  or  rolls  of 
about  40-yard  pieces.  Then  they  are 
ready  for  the  commission  house. 

Carding  and  Spinning   Particulars. 

The  yams  for  eolienne  are  made  in 
mills  of  the  third  division  as  given  in 
a  previous  article.  The  count  of  yarn 
taken  for  an  example  of  this  class  of 
goods  is  2-50s  cotton  filling,  the  warp 
yarns  being  made  of  raw  silk.  In  this 
article  we  will  give  the  foundation  for 
making  this  count  of  yarn  for  this 
class  of  goods.  While  the  count  of 
yarn  is  not  what  would  be  called  a  fine 
one,  still  the  general  construction  of 
the  goods  calls  for  a  fairly  good 
length  of  staple  of  a  good  grade  of  cot- 
ton, sometimes  the  yams  being  mer- 
cerized and  gassed.    The  sample  calls 


for  a  cotton  of  good  grade  of  from  IVz 
inch  to  1  9-16  inch  staple.  This  cotton 
is  put  through  two  pi-ocesses  of  pick- 
ing, the  speed  of  the  beaters  being  1,- 
500  and  1,250  revolutions  per  minute, 
iespeotively,for  the  beater  and  finisher. 
The  weight  of  the  lap  at  the  finisher 
should  be  37Va  pounds,  or  a  12-ounce 
lap.  The  card  should  be  equipped  with 
35s  wire  fillet  for  the  cylinder  and  37a 
for  doffer  and  flats.  The  speed  of  the 
licker-in  should  not  exceed  300  revolu- 
tions per  minute;  the  speed  of  the 
flats,  one  complete  revolution  every  40 
minutes,  and  about  9V^  per  cent  of 
dirt,  strip,  etc.,  taken  out.  Strip 
three  times  a  day  and  grind  as  be- 
fore stated. 

SETTINGS 
should  be  close.  Special  attention 
should  be  paid  to  the  licker-in,  both 
as  regards  its  speed  and  also  as  to  its 
setting.  The  feed  plate  should  be  set 
far  enough  away  not  to  break  the 
staple  and  not  so  far  as  to  allow 
the  licker-in  to  continuously  draw 
bunches  into  the  cylinder.  The 
draft  should  be  about  110  and  the 
weight  of  the  sliver  55  grains 
per  yard.  The  production  should  not 
exceed  525  pounds  tor  a  week  of  60 ' 
hours.  The  cotton  sliver  is  next  put 
through  a  sliver  lap  machine,  the 
doublings  for  an  S%-inch  lap  being 
IG  into  1,  the  weight  being  400  grains 
per  yard.  These  laps  are  put  up  at  the 
ribbon  lap  machine  and  doubled  6  into 
1,  and  made  into  a  lap  on  a  lOV^-inch 
spool.  The  weight  of  this  lap  should 
be  about  420  grains.  These  are  put  up 
at  the  comber  and  doubled  8  into  1.  For 
the  Heilman  machine  the  end  cam 
should  be  set  as  follows:  with  the  80- 
tooth  gear  out  of  mesh,  set  roller  on 
pawl  arm  in  heel  of  large  cam, 
turn  index  gear  to  5%  and  slide  80- 
tooth  gear  into  mesh  and  bolt.  Set  de- 
taching rolls  to  fluted  segment  with 
21  gauge.  Set  nippers  to  open  at  3V2 
index  gear  and  close  at  914.  Set  lift- 
ers down  at  6%  and  up  at  8%  to  9; 
top  combs  down  at  5;  detaching  rolls 
beginning  to  move  at  fi  and  feed  roll 
at  4,  or  according  to  amount  of  waste 
to  be  taken  out.  Set  cushion  plate  to 
half  lap  with  an  18  gauge  and  top  combs 
to  fluted  segment  with  a  21  gauge.  Use 
a  15-16-inch  stock  gauge.  Use  a  30-de- 
gree  angle  on  nipper  knife.  For  this 
stock  take  out  IS  to  20  per  cent  waste. 
The  weight  of  the  sliver  delivered  is 
60  grains  per  yard.  Speed  of  comber  is 
100  nips  per  minute. 
The  sliver  is  next  put  through 
TWO  PROCESSES 
of  drawing  frames.  For  this  class  of 
goods  use  a  front  roller  speed  of  350 


322 


A    COTTON    FABRICS    GLOSSARY. 


and  have  leather  top  rolls  well  var- 
nished and  see  that  all  stop-motions 
work  properly. 

Weight  of  sliver  at  finisher  drawing 
frame  is  70  grains  per  yard.  At  the 
slubber  make  .55  hank  roving  and  use 
three  processes  of  fly  frames,  the  hank 
roving  at  each  being  1.25  at  fii-st;  4  at 
second,  and  lOyo  at  fine  frame.  Spin 
the  roving  into  50s,  on  a  ring  frame,- 
with  a  2%-inch  spindle  gauge,  l^/i- 
inch  diamond  ring  and  a  5-inch  trav- 
erse. If  mercerized  yarn  is  wanted, 
spin  with  a  soft  twist,  otherwise  use 
the  regular  cloth  twist,  which  for  this 
yarn  would  be  as  follows:  twist  per 
inch,  22.98;  revolutions  per  minute  of 
front  roller,  100  plus;  revolutions  per 
minute  of  spindle,  7,250.  After  which 
the  yarn  goes  through  the  usual  proc- 
esses to  be  twisted  into  2-ply  50s. 


Dyeing   Particulars. 

PINK. 

One-quarter  per  cent  Erika  pink  G; 
1  per  cent  sal  soda;  10  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's salt. 

LIGHT  BLUE. 

One-half  per  cent  diamine  S  K  blue; 
1  per  cent  sal  soda;  10  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's salt. 

OLIVE. 

Two  per  cent  diamine  green  G;    V2 
per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow  B;  %  per 
cent  diamine  brown  B;   1  per  cent  sal 
soda;    20  per  cent  Glauber's. 
HELIOTROPE. 

Two  per  cent  diamine  heliotrope;  1 
per  cent  sal  soda;  20  per  cent  Glau- 
ber's salt. 

NAVY  BLUE. 

Eight  per  cent  immedial  indigo  B; 
8  per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  5  per  cent 
soda;   20  per  cent  Glauber's. 
MYRTLE. 

Eight  per  cent  immedial  deep  green 
B;   8  per  cent  siilphide  sodium;   5  per 
cent  soda  ash;   30  per  cent  Glauber's. 
FAWN  BROWN. 

One  per  cent  diamine  brown  B;    V2 
per  cent  diamine  fast  j-ellow  B;  V2  per 
cent  sal  soda;    20  per  cen.t  Glauber's. 
SEAL  BROWN. 

Four  per  cent  diamine  brown  B;    1 
per  cent  diamine  fast  yellow  B;  1  per 
cent  diamine  catechine  B;   V2  per  cent 
sal  soda;   30  per  cent  salt. 
BLACK.    . 

Ten  per  cent  immedial  black  N  N; 
10  per  cent  sulphide  of  sodium;  30  per 
cent  Glauber's  salt;  5  per  cent  soda 
ash. 


SAGE  GREEN. 
One-half  per  cent  diamine  green  G; 
1  per  cent  sal  soda;  30  per  cent  salt. 
PEARL. 
One-sixteenth       per     cent     diamine 
dark  blue  G;   1  per  cent  sal  soda;   20 
per  cent  Glauber's. 

SLATE. 
One  per  cent  diamineral  black  B;   1 
per  cent  sal  soda;  20    per  cent    Glau- 
ber's. 


HANDKERCHIEFS. 


Cotton  handkerchiefs  are  constructed 
in  various  ways.  Some  are  made  from 
ordinary  plain  cotton  cloth  cut  up  and 
either  hemmed,  embroidered  (usually 
with  initials)  or  ornamented  with  Bat- 
tenburg  or  other  forms  of  lace.  Others 
are  what  may  be  termed  "made  in  the 
loom,"  and  are  of  such  types  as  hem- 
stitched, in  which  a  leno  weave  is  used 
for  the  four  borders  to  make  a  per- 
forated effect,  and  corded  handker- 
chiefs, in  which  corded  effects  are 
made  for  both  the  side  and  cross  bor- 
ders. 

They  vary  in  size,  weight  and  qual- 
ity, from  the  utilitarian  red  bandanna 
to  the  ladies'  dainty  ornamental  lace 
article. 

In  a  characteristic  handkerchief  of 
the  cord  type,  the  layout  of  the  entire 
warp,  including  the  drawing-in  draft, 
is  as  follows: 


Ends 

Harness. 

Dents. 

Selvedge  32  as 

16 

1 

2 

8 

32 

3 

4 

5 

6 

16 

"10  as 

2 

7 

8 

2 

6 

3 

4 

5 

6 

3 

10  as 

2 

7 

8 

2 

6 

5 

6 

3 

4 

3 

10  as 

2 

7 

8 

2 

14 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7 

Border 

40  as 

8 

7 

8 

8 

14 

5 

6 

3 

4 

7 

10  as 

2 

7 

8 

2 

6 

3 

4 

5 

6 

S 

10  as 

2 

7 

8 

2 

6 

5 

6 

3 

4 

S 

10  as 

2 

7 

8 

2 

Body    1080 

3 

4 

5 

6 

540 

152 

Draw  border 

46 

56 

3 

4 

3 

6 

28 
Skip              1 

56 

3 

4 

5 

6 

28 

152 

Draw  border 

46 

1080 

Draw  body 

640 

152 

Draw 

border 

46 

32 

3 

4 

5 

6 

16 

Selvedge 

32  as 

16 

1 

2 

8 

3008  ends  1369 

From  the  above  layout  it  will  be 
seen  that  two  handkerchiefs  are  woven 
in  the  loom  at  the  same  time,  side  by 
side,  one  empty  dent  separating  them, 
and  that  one  beam  only  has  been  used. 
Each  warp  cord  border  consists  of  100 
ends  working  as  20. 

THE  SAME  EFFECT 
could  be  obtained  by  using  a  coarser 


A    COTTON    FABRICS    GLOSSARY. 


323 


yarn,  but  the  probabilities  are  that  if 
this  was  done  it  would  become  neces- 
sary to  use  two  beams.  Twenty-eight 
dents  have  been  occupied  between  the 
cords  and  centre  empty  dent  to  allow 
ample  width  for  turning  the  edges  un- 
der for  hemming  purposes. 

The  construction  data  of  this  hand- 
kerchief are  as  follows:  Warp  counts, 
32s:  filling  counts,  40s;  ends  per  inch, 
72  in  plain  part,  79  average;  picks  per 
inch,  70  in  plain  part,  77  average; 
ends  in  handkerchief,  1,504;  picks  in 
handkerchief,  1,4.54;  width  in  loom,  40 


era]  devices  or  loom  attachments  now 
on  the  market,  comprising  double  or 
more  cylinder  repeater,  multiplier,  or 
handkerchief  motions. 

Most  of  these  require  separate  chain 
bars  for  the  two  borders  and  a  certain 
number  of  bars  for  the  plain,  varying 
according  to  the  type  of  motion  used. 

Fig.  1  shows  the  chain  draft  that  has 
been  used  to  produce  th'3  handkerchief 
referred  to,  with  the  layout  shown;  86 
double-index  bars  have  been  used  for 
each  handkerchief,  one  for  the  plain  in 
centre  and  borders,  and  85  for  the  cord 


Repeater 
motion.* 

iiaDaQBG 

Bja::]aGB 

aB2Bc:B3 

DHUBOBn 

D3B~BZB 
DDBZBZB 
OCBZPZB 
ODBGBZB 
OBJBQBG 
OGBCBZB 

oaaBDBD 

□DBDBDB 
DBGBOBD 
DBOBaBD 
DBDBaBD 
DBDBaBa 
DBaBOBD 
DDBGBGB 
DGBCBOB 
DCBDBGB 
DDBGBCB 
GCBZBrB 
□BGBZBG 
□□BGBGB 
DBGBnBG 
□BGBCBa 
CBGBGBD 
OBGBDBG 
GBGBZBn 
G^BCBCB 
GGBZBGB 
GGBGBCB 
DGBGBGB 
GGBGBGB 
DBGBGBn 
CGBGBGi 
CB~BGBa 
CBZBGBa 
DBGBCBn 
□BGOGBQ 
□BGBDBD 
DGBCBGB 
DGBDBGB 
DDBGBGB 
OGBGBCB 
DGI 


GBGI 


■  GBGI 


Stop 
pegs. 
D  y  Plain  bar  for  body  and  plain  In  border. 

gl 

D 


Repeat  =  2S  picks  =  14  bars. 


=  10  picks  =    5  bars. 


g  J.6  times  =  12  picks  =    6  bars. 
ST 


Is  ti 


mes  =  80  picks  =  40  bars. 


n   1  6  times  =  12  picks  =    6  bars. 


G    I 

D 

D 

a 


Repeat  —  28  picks  =  14  bars. 


S3   bars   rnr  cross  border. 
1    bar    for    plain 


Total,  86   bars   for   handkerchief. 


Fig.   1. 


inches;     width     in    gray.     38     inches; 
weight,  4.5  yards  per  pound. 

One  of  the  principal  points  to  consid- 
er in  handkerchief  weaving  is  the  ar- 
rangement of  the  chain  draft  for  the 
filling  pattern  and  loom  mechanism  so 
that  there  will  not  be  any  more  bars 
of  pattern  chain  used  than  is  neces- 
sary. 

THE  FILLING  PATTERN 
of  the  handkerchief  under  considera- 
tion contains  1,454  picks.  On  an  ordi- 
nary' dobby  head  this  would  require  727 
bars  of  double  index,  or  1,454  bars  of 
single  index  chain.  To  avoid  this  ex- 
cessive amount  of  chain  there  are  sev- 


*  Repeater   motion    refers   only    to    left- 
hand  vertical  series  of  squares. 


cross  borders,  with  a  repeat  motion 
that  is  not  on  the  market.  The  sel- 
vedges have  been  woven  plain.  The 
harnesses  for  these  have  not  been  in- 
dicated on  the  chain  draft, because  they. 
are  worked  in  a  positive  manner  by 
the  lifter  knives. 

LOOM  REQUIRED. 

The  handkerchief  was  woven  in  a 
single  box  dobby  loom  from  one  beam- 
It  might  at  arst  thought  appear  to  be 
an  advantage  to  weave  cross  borders  of 
this  type  with  coarse  filling  in  a  2x1 
box  loom,  using  one  pick  of  coarse  in- 
stead of  five  picks  of  fine  filling,  but 
the  lower  speed  at  which  it  is  neces- 
sary' to  run  box  looms  and  the  more 
attention  they   require     from     weaver 


324 


A    COTTOX    FABRICS    GLOSSARY. 


and  loom  fixer,  lessen  this  seeming  ad- 
vantage. Single  bos  cam  looms,  with 
haudkerchief  motions  attached,  in 
which  sliding  cams  work  the  plain 
weave  or  remain  in  an  open-shed  posi- 
tion for  a  number  of  picks  as  required, 
are  sometimes  used.  These  admit  of  a 
much  greater  speed  and  steadier  mo- 
tion than  dobbj-  looms. 

FINISHING. 

Cord  handkerchiefs  are  usually 
bleached,  cut,  hemmed,  folded,  pressed 
and  made  up  as  required.  Plain  cloth 
handkerchiefs  are  similarly  treated  or 
are  printed,  usually  red  and  white  or 
blue  and  white,  instead  of  being 
bleached. 


Carding    and   Spinning    Particulars. 

The  yarns  that  compose  handker- 
chiefs are  made  in  mills  of  the  sec- 
ond and  third  divisions,  as  given  in  a 
previous  article.  Generally  speaking, 
handkerchief  yarns  are  combed,  even 
the  coarser  yarns  for  the  poorer  qual- 
ity of  handkerchiefs.  The  handker- 
chief taken  for  a  sample  is  made  up 
of  32s  warp  yarns  and  40s  filling 
yarns,  and  it  is  often  found  that  a 
different  count  of  yarn  is  used  in  the 
cords- 

For  the  sample  under  description,  a 
good  quality  of  American  cotton  of 
about  1  5-16  to  1%  staple  would  be 
used.  This  would  be  mixed,  as  has 
been  before   described, 

MACHINE  MIXING 
being  used  if  possible,  as  it  leaves 
the  cotton  in  a  more  desirable  condi- 
tion. An  opener  and  three  proc- 
esses of  picking  are  used,  although  in 
some  fine  cloth  mills  only  two  proces- 
ses of  picking  are  used,  and  excellent 
results  obtained.  Some  overseers  con- 
sider that  an  intermediate  picker  is 
not  necessary,  and,  in  fact,  claim  that 
instead  of  benefiting  the  cotton,  it  is 
a  detriment,  as  it  puts  neps  into  the 
cotton.  "WTiile  this  may  be  true,  good 
results  are  obtained  by  either  process, 
and  one  has  to  be  governed  by  cir- 
cumstances as  he  finds  them,  as  it 
very  often  happens  in  a  cotton  mill 
that  no  hard  and  fast  rule  can  be  giv- 
en, the  object  being  to  get  a  good  clean, 
even  varn  with  strength,  and  on  the 
mark  .is  to  count,  and  also  to  get 
as  much  as  possible  as  cheap  as  pos- 
sible. At  the  feeder  have  it  feeding 
as  even  as  possible  and  remember 
that  on   the  pin  roller 

DEPENDS    THE    EVENNESS 
of  the  lap  at  the  breaker.    The  break- 
er is  equipped  with  two  sets  of  cages 


and  beaters,  the  breaker  beater  hav- 
ing three  blades,  and  making  1,400 
revolutions  per  minute,  while  the 
front  beater  has  two  blades,  and  al- 
so makes  1,400  revolutions  per  min- 
ute. It  will  thus  be  seen  that  the 
cotton  passing  under  the  three-bladed 
beater  receives  one-third  more  beat- 
ing than  when  passing  under  the  for- 
ward beater  of  the  same  machine.  A 
full  lap  should  weigh  40  pounds,  or 
a  16-ounce  lap.  If  three  processes  of 
pickers  are  used,  these  laps  are  doub- 
led 4  into  1  at  the  intermediate 
picker.  The  total  weight  of  a  lap  at 
this  machine  should  be  38  pounds,  or 
a  14-ounce  lap.  At  the  finisher  pick- 
er the  doublings  are  also  4  into  1. 
The  speed  of  a  beater  of  this  picker  is 
1,425,  if  equipped  with  a  pin  beat- 
er, and  1,450  if  a  two-bladed  rigid 
type  is  used.    The  total 

WEIGHT 

of  a  lap  is  37I/2  pounds  for  a  40-yard 
lap,  or  a  15-ouuce  lap.  All  the  laps 
as  they  are  taken  off  the  picker  should 
be  weighed,  a  variation  of  one-half 
a  pound  either  side  of  the  standard 
weight  being  allowed.  The  roving 
waste  (cut)  should  be  mixed  as  be- 
fore stated,  or  better  still  if  it  is  run 
through  a  special  roving  machine, 
and  then  put  back  into  the  mixing. 
In  this  manner  Fcarcely  any  "lickin" 
laps  are  made,  granted,  of  course,  tha.t 
too  much  cut  waste  is  not  being  made, 
or  too  little  cotton  being  used.  Cut 
roving  waste  and  also  card,  sliver 
lap,  ribbon  lap.  comber  and  drawing 
frame  good  waste  is  a  serious  prob- 
lem, and  it  should  not  be  allowed  to 
accumulate,  but  should  be  used  up  as 
fast    as   made.     The   laps    are   put   up 

AT  THE  CARD. 
This  card  is,  generally  speaking,  the 
so-called  English  card.  It  should  have 
as  large  a  doffer  as  possible,  either  a 
26  or  27  inch  diameter  being  used  by 
mill  men  nowadays.  The  size  of  wire 
fillet  used  should  be  that  used  _  for 
making  medium  counts  of  yarn,  i.  e.. 
No.  34  or  110s  for  cylinder,  and  No. 
36s  or  130s  for  doffer  and  flats.  The 
draft  of  the  card  should  not  be  less 
than  110.  The  speed  of  the  licker-in 
should  be  about  400  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  flats  should  make  one 
complete  revolution  every  40  minutes. 
Strip,  grind  and  set  as  given  in  pre- 
vious articles.  The  production  of  the 
card  for  a  week  of  60  hours  should  be 
600  pounds.  If  this  yarn  is  to  be 
combed,  it  is  generally  run  through 
the  sliver  lap  machine,  where  it  is 
doubled  14  into  Land  weighs  250  grains 


'   A    COTTON    FABRICS    GLOSSARY. 


per  yard  for  an  8%-inch  lap,  after 
which  it  is  put  up  at  the  ribbon  lap 
machine  and  doubled  6  into  1,  the 
weight  of  a  j'ard  of  lap  at  the  front 
being  275  grains.  These  laps  should 
be 

SIZED  TWICE  A  DAY, 

a  variation  of  5  grains  per  yard  eith- 
er side  of  the  standard  weight 
being  allowed  before  changing. 
At  the  combei  use  the  sajie  settings, 
timings  and  gauges  as  given  in  the  last 
article.  The  combed  sliver  should 
weight  45  grains  for  a  6-head  comber, 
and  proportionately  more  for  an  S-head 
comber.  For  these  goods  about  15  per 
cent  of  waste  is  taken  out.  Watch  the 
needles  on  the  half  laps  and  top 
combs,  for  remember  that  if  these  are 
broken  or  bent.the  cotton  is  not  receiv- 
ing its  proper  combing,  and  as  this 
Is  an  extra  item  in  the  cost,  these  lit- 
tle points  should  be  looked  after.  An- 
other part  of  th3  comber  to  watch  is 
the  table,  to  keep  it  free  from  dirt  and 
oil,  and  well  polished  and  smooth,  at 
all  times.  This  is  because  after  leav- 
ing the  comber  the  cotton  receives 
no  more  cleaning,  so  that  dirt  even  in 
the  sliver  is  apt  to  stay  there. 

PERCENTAGES  OF  THE  COMBER 

should  be  taken  frequently  and  all 
comber  percentages  kept  as  even  as 
possible,  for  if  there  is  much  varia- 
tion it  will  show  up  and  make  uneven 
yarn.  Another  point  to  watch  is 
the  leather  top  rolls.  These  should 
be  kept  well  varnished,  with  a  v.qr- 
nish  which  will  last  at  least  three 
weeks,  although  the  detaching  rolls 
should  be  given  one  coat  of  varnish 
every  week.  Varnish  should  be  ap- 
plied with  a  brush.  At  the  drawing 
frame,  the  comber  silver  Is  put 
through  two  processes,  the  doublings 
being  8  into  1  at  the  breaker,  and  6 
into  1  at  the  finisher.  The  weight  per 
yard  at  the  finisher  drawing  frame 
is  70  grains  per  yard.  At  this  ma- 
chine 

THE  MAIN  POINTS 
to  watch  are  the  knock-off  motions, 
roller  settings  and  top  rolls.  For 
drawing  frame  top  leather  rolls  a 
varnish  should  be  used  which  is 
smoother  and  glossier  than  that  used 
for  the  comber  rolls.  Usually  this  is 
obtained  by  using  Venetian  red,  in- 
stead of  burnt  sienna,  as  a  color 
mixing.  At  the  slubber,  the  drawing  is 
made  up  into  .60  hank  roving.  Watch 
the  twist  and  tension.  If  top  leath- 
er rolls  are  varnished,  the  same  var- 
nish as  is  used  for  the  drawing  frame 
may  be  used,  except  for  the  fact  that 


it  is  thinned  down  by  adding  acetic 
acid  or  vinegar.  The  roving  is  then 
put  through  two  processes  of  fly 
frames.  At  the  first  intermediate  it  is 
made  into  2  hank,  and  at  the  fine 
it  is  made  into  GYz  for  warp,  and 
8  hank  for  filling.  At  these  frames 
watch  the  following  parts:  tension, 
twist,  setting  of  steel  rolls,  traverse 
and  roving  waste.  Be  sure  to  have  no 
dead  spindles.     The 

YARN  FOR  THE  FUSING 

is  spun  into  40s  on  a  frame  with  a 
]%-inch  diameter  ring,  5y2-inch  trav- 
erse, and  a  spindle  speed  of  8,800 
revolutions  per  minute,  after  which 
the  filling  is  conditioned,  and  is  then 
ready  for  weaving.  The  roving  for 
warp  is  spun  into  32s,  on  a  frame  with 
2%-inch  gauge,  1%-inch  diameter  ring, 
and  spindle  speed  of  10,000  revolutions 
per  minute.  The  yarn  is  then  spooled, 
warped  and  put  through  a  slasher,  and 
run  upon  a  beam  at  the  front.  Gener- 
ally speaking,  this  beam  is  made  up  of 
sections  of  small  beams  known  as 
handkerchief  beams,  on  which  are 
wound  the  required   number   of  ends. 


DIAPER  CLOTH. 

Cotton  diaper  cloth  may  be  con- 
sidered a  staple  fabric,  being  made 
in  the  same  widths,  grades  and  pat- 
terns year  in  and  year  out. 

Standard  widths  are  18  inches,  20 
inches,  22  inches,  24  inches  and  27 
inches. 

Essential  qualities  required  for 
these  goods  are  freedom  from  foreign 
matter,    and    ability    to    absorb    mois- 


cactmomoa 
Kif.'.  1. 


4        1 

3  3 

2  2 

1 

yifT.  2. 


rBnrnB3 

■  uDZiBOJ 

■JBGaca 
aaaaaaa 
mannmaa 
amnaoma 
■oaaaaa 

Fig  3. 


ture.  Being  subjected  to  excessive 
washings  when  in  use,  they  have  to 
be  of  fair  quality. 

For  the  ordinary  qualities  of  goods, 
Allen  Seed.  Benders,  Mobile,  New 
Orleans  and  Texas  cotton  of  middling 
and  strict  middling  grades  are  used. 
In  the  lower  qualities,  card  and  rov- 
ing waste  is  used  for  the  filling. 
CONSTRUCTION. 

A  diaper  fabric  under  consideration 


326 


A    COTTON    FABRICS    GLOSSARY. 


Is  constructed  as  follows:  Width,  18% 
inches,  probably  intended  for  18  inch- 
es; ends  per  inch,  62;  picks  per  inch, 
46;  warp  counts.  30s;  filling  counts, 
14s  ;  weight,  7.83  yards  per  pound; 
weave,  Fig.  1.  The  selvedges  consist 
of  24  ends  of  30s  as  12  on  each  side, 
and  have  been  reeded  4  ends  per 
dent;  they  weave  plain.  The  body  ol 
the  cloth  has  been  reeded  two  ends 
per   dent. 

The  combination  of  a  filling  flush 
weave,  only  one  end  out  of  4  being 
up  on  each  pick,  and  a  soft,  coarse 
filling  as  compared  to  the  warp,  tends 
to  make  the  face  of  the  cloth  very 
soft.  This  is  aided  by  the  finishing 
process,  which  renders  the  fabric  ab- 
sorbent to  a  large  degree,  as  well  as 
antiseptic. 

Fig.  2  shows  the  centre  or  point 
harness  draft,  and  Fig.  3  the  chain 
draft,  to  use  to  produce  the  fabric 
under  consideration.  As  harness 
number  5  works  like  harness  number 
1,  it  might  be  omitted,  and  the  ends 
drawn  on  number  1  instead. 

If  the  ends  were  drawn  in  straight, 
the  chain  draft  would  be  similar  to 
the  weave,  with  selvedges  extra. 


BALIHE. 


Baline  comprehends  a  class  of  goods 
that  is,  in  point  of  texture,  between 
the  coarser  stuff  known  as  burlap  and 
the  lighter  and  somewhat  finer  mate- 
rial known  as  canvas. 

Baline  is  practically  a  coarse  kind  of 
canvas.  '  It  is  made  from  the  best 
grades  of  jute,  flax  and  hemp  and  is 
used  for  numerous  purposes.  The  very 
coarse  quality  is  used  principally  for 
wrapping  merchandise,  and  the  finer 
grades  are  used  for  curtains  and  uphol- 
stery purposes,  and  also  for  stiffen- 
ing wearing  apparel,  etc. 

Baline,  as  used  for  stiffening  wearing 
apparel,  is  inserted  between  the  sur- 
face cloth  and  the  lining,  usually  at 
the  lapels  and  sleeves,  in  order  both  to 
stiffen  and  retain  the  shape  or  setting 
of  that  portion  of  the  garment. 

THE  GOODS 
are  made  in  various  widths;   that  used 
for   upholstery    purposes    ranges   from 


CALCULATIONS. 
46  (picks)  X  20  (width  in  reed)  x  100  (length  of  cut) 


=  7.82  lbs.  filling. 


14  (counts)   X  840 

100  (yds.)   divided  by  7.83   (yds.    per  pound)   =:   12.77  lbs.    weight    Ol   cut. 
12.77   —  7.82   =  4.95    lbs.    warp. 
18%  (width  of  cloth)  x  62  sley  =  1,162. 
1,162  +  24  for  selvedges  =  1,186,  total  ends. 
1,186    (ends)    x    103    (length) 


4.95  (weight)  x  840 


30s    warp    counts. 


LOOM    REQUIRED. 

Diaper  cloth  may  be  woven  on  sin- 
gle box  dobby  or  cam  looms.  If  wov- 
en on  the  latter,  a  cam  arrangement 
of  8  picks  to  the  round,  with  selvedge 
motion  extra,  would  be  required.  As 
it  is  not  necessary  to  stop  production 
for  ordinary  misweaves,  the  cam  loom 
would  be  the  best  to  use  on  account 
of  its  steadier  running. 

FINISHING. 

The  object  of  the  finishing  process 
is  to  rid  the  fabric  of  the  cotton  wax 
and  foreign  matter,  and  render  it  ab- 
sorbent, white  and  clean.  This  is  ac- 
complished by  treating  with  an  alka- 
line solution  of  caustic  soda,  bleach- 
ing, washing  and  drying.  It  is  then 
sterilized  by  formaldehyde  or  steam, 
dried,  and  made  up,  usually  in  10- 
yard  bolts  covered '  with  a  sealed 
wrapper. 


50  inches  to  64  inches,  and  that  used 
for  tailoring  purposes  usually  comes  in 
narrow  widths  from  22  inches  to  36 
inches.  The  narrow  goods,  however, 
are  usually  woven  double  width  with 
f;isc  centre  selvedges,  then  cut  in  two 
parts  during  the  finishing. 

Baline  is  made  in  several  qualities. 
The  best  grades  are  made  up  entirely 
of  tow  yarn,  a  short  flax  fibre,  another 
grade  is  made  with  a  combination  of 
;ow  yarn  and  hemp  or  jute,  and  the 
lower  qualities  are  usually  made  en- 
tirely from  either  hemp  or  jute. 

In  the  combination  fabric  the  hemp 
or  jute  usually  figures  as  filling,  while 
the  flax  or  tow  yarn  is  used  for  the 
warp,  because  the  latter  is  with  less 
difficulty  made  up  into  a  smoother  and 
stronger  thread  than  either  hemp  or 
jute.     The 

WARP  AND  FILLING 
for  these  goods  interlaces  on  the  plain 


A    COTTON    FABRICS    GLOSSARY. 


327 


weave  system.  The  goods  used  for 
decorating  purposes  are  dyed  in  the 
piece  and  the  prevailing  colors  are  dark 
red.  garnet,  and  various  shades  of  blue. 
The  goods  used  for  wrapping  merchan- 
dise and  tailoi'ing  purposes  are  finished 
in  their  natural  color,  which  is  a  kind 
of  drab,  or  light  brown,  depending 
on  the  material  used  in  the  construc- 
tion of  the  goods. 

The  baline  used  for  tailoring  pur- 
poses is  the  finest  in  point  of  texture, 
and  the  goods  used  for  decorative  pur- 
poses closely  resemble  the  common 
burlap,  as  far  as  texture  is  concerned. 
In  the  finishing,  the  coarser  grade  of 
baline  receives  considerable  attention, 
being  dyed  and  sheared. and  prese^its  a 
much  more  attractive  appearance  than 
the  common  burlap,  which  is  only 
pressed  after  it  comes  from  the  loom. 

Analysis  of  goods  used  for  s^i»'feninJ,: 

Width  in  reed,  double  width,  50 
inches;  finished  at  471/4  inches. 

Reed,  16x2,  34  picks  per  inch;  warp, 
12  cut  tow  yarn;  filling,  12  cut  jute; 
ends  in  warp,  1,600;  extra  ends  for  all. 
8;  total,  1,608;  weight  per  yard,  15 
ounces. 

Take-up  in  warp  during  weaving 
about  15  per  cent. 

FINISHING. 

The  finishing  of  these  goods  depends 
entirely  upon  the  use  for  which  the  fab- 
ric is  intended.  The  quality  used  for 
upholstery  purposes  and  curtains  is 
dyed  after  the  goods  are  woven,  then 
sheared  on  both  sides  and  usually  soft- 
ened, especially  so  if  intended  for  cur- 
tains. The  goods  used  for  tailoring 
purposes  are  finished  in  their  natural 
color  and  stiffened.  Some  are  stiffened 
much  more  than  others,  depending  on 
the  use  for  which  they  are  made.  The 
materials  used  for  stiffening  are  glue 
and  flour.  If  a  very  stiff  finish  is  de- 
sired, equal  proportions  of  glue  and 
flour  are  used.  The  goods  used  for 
wrapping  are  merely  sprinkled,  then 
pressed,  after  which  they  are  made  up 
into  rolls  or  laps. 


Dyeing  Particulars. 

NAVY  BLUE. 

Three  and  one-half  per  cent  formyl 
blue  B;  30  per  cent  Glauber's;  2  per 
cent  alum. 

BLACK. 

Five  per  cent  jute  black  G;  30  per 
cent  Glauber's;  3  per  cent  alum. 

RED. 

Five  per  cent  fast  red  R;  30  per  cent 
Glauber's;   3  per  cent  alum. 


SKY  BLUE. 

One  per  cent  patent  blue  B;  25  per 
cent  Glauber's;   3  per  cent  alum. 

Most  of  the  acid  colors  can  be  dyed 
on  this  fabric  with  Glauber's  and  alum 
at  the  temperature  of  about  190  de- 
grees, in  a  jig  dye  machine  The 
goods  are  boiled  out  with  Glauber's 
salt  and  sal  soda  to  soften  the  fibre  a 
little  before  the  dyeing  operation. 

The  addition  of  a  little  acetic  acid  the 
last  fifteen  minutes  is  beneficial  to 
most  colors. 


HONEYCOMB  CLOTH. 


Honeycomb  cloth  derives  its  name 
from  its  very  close  resemblance  to  an 
ordinary  wax  honeycomb. 

In  combination  with  other  weaves 
the  honeycomb  type  of  weave  is  ex- 
tensively used  in  the  manufacture  of 
honeycomb  and  so-called  crochet 
quilts.  It  is  also  used  for  cotton  warp 
and  wool  filling  shawls  and  baby  car- 
riage robes,  in  which  the  warp  is  con- 
siderably finer  than  the  filling  in  or- 
der that  it  will  show  as  little  as  pos- 
sible. 

The  honeycomb  type  of  weave  was 
formerly  used  to  some  extent  in  the 
construction  of  cotton  toweling.  The 
cell-like  fabric,  which  is  practically 
identical  in  appearance  on  both  sides, 
would  appear  to  be  excellently  adapted 
for  toweling,  the  plain  weave  portions 
giving  the  necessary  strength  and  the 
long  floats  of  yarn  readily  absorbing 
moisture,  but  for  some  reason  or  other 
it  is  not  seen  in  the  market  to  any  ex- 
tent at  the  present  time. 

Low  and  medium  counts  of  yarn  are 
usually  used  for  honeycomb  cloths. 

Figs.  1  and  2  illustrate  two  honey- 
comb weaves,  on  S  ends  by  6  picks  and 
8  ends  by  8  picks,  respectively.  A 
study  of  these  will  show  that  some 
ends  and  picks  interlace  more  than, 
others  in  a  repeat  of  the  weave  and 
that  they  are  constructed  on  diamond 
bases. 

Unlike  the  majority  of  single  weave 
cloths,  the  effect  in  honeycomb  cloth 
differs  entirely  from  that  seen  on  the 
design  paper,  the  diamond  effect  on  the 
paper  being  substituted  by  the  cellular 
effect  in  the  cloth.  This  feature  is  due 
to  the  fact  that  yarns  appear  more  or 
less  prominent,  when  woven  into  the 
cloth,  according  to  the  smaller  or 
greater  amount  of  interlacings  respec- 
tivelv. 


328 


A  COTTON   FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


WEAVES. 

In  the  type  of  cloth  under  considera- 
tion the  longer  floats  of  warp  and  fill- 
ing form  the  ridges  of  the  honeycomb 
cells,  while  the  yarns  which  interlace 
to  a  greater  degree  form  the  recesses 
of  the  same.  The  long  warp  floats 
on  one  side  are  opposite  the  filling 
floats  on  the  other. 


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Fig.  1. 


Fig.  2, 


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Fig.  3. 

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CGBGBBBGBGGGBZBBBGBa 
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Fig.  4. 

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==-GBZBZBZBZBGCa  CBGBZCBGaBDB 

— ZZZBZBZBZBGGGQ  BGBZZBBBGGBD 

ZZGZZZBZBZBGGnDn  QBCZBBBBBCDB 

I — GGZZGBGBGGaDGn  BGZBBBBBBBGO 

Fig.  o.  Fig  C. 

Honeycomb  weaves  vary  in  size 
within  certain  limits.  The  larger  the 
weave,  the  less  firm  the  structure  of 
the  cloth.  Figs.  3  and  4  illustrate 
weaves  on  10  x  8  and  10  x  10,  respec- 
tively. With  the  same  amount  of  ma- 
terial, cloths  constructed  with  these 
would  not  be  as  firm  as  they  would  if 
weaves  Figs.  1  and  2  were  substituted. 

When  large  tffects  are  deslied,   the 


weave  is  modified  and  strengthened  by 
the  addition  of  a  plain  weave  aroimd 
the  diamond,  or,  as  it  is  termed,  a  dou- 
ble diamond  is  used  for  a  base. 

Fig.  5  illustrates  a  weave  of  this 
type. 

Fig.  6  illustrates  another  variatioa 
of  the  honeycomb  weave  on  12  x  12. 
The  type  of  design  illustrated  in  Figs. 
2  and  4  is  the  one  generally  used.  The 
crosses  in  Figs.  1  to  4  indicate  one 
repeat  of  the  weave. 

These  fabrics  are  made  on  ordinary 
dobby  looms.  One  beam  only  is  used. 
♦-•-♦ 

BRIGHTONfCLOTH. 

Brighton  cloth  is  distinguished  by  a 
general  effect  on  the  face  somewhat 
similar  to  honej'comb  cloth,  but  unlike 
the  latter,  it  is  uot  reversible,  the  ap- 
pearance on  the  back  di^ering  from 
that  on  the  face.  The  principal  dif- 
ference between  honej^comb  and 
Brighton  weave  effects  is  that  the  cells 
of  the  former  appear  of  uniform  size, 
on  the  square  or  rectangular  base, 
whereas  those  of  the  latter  appear  in 

aOGBBBZBZBZBBBBB 
OnGZBZBZZZBZBBBG 
DDCZZBGZZZZBGBZa 
DDGGB  ZZGZZZBZBG 
DDGBZBZZZZZBBBZB 
■GBGBBBZGZBBBBBG 
QBGBBBBBZBBBBBBB 
■aBBBBBBBZBBBBBG 
DBGBBBBBZZZBBBGB 
DQBZBBBZZZZZBGBa 
DDDBZBGZZZZZZBZa 
DDCGBZBZZGZGBZGG 
DCCBBBZBZZGBZBGG 
DGBBBBBZBZBGBBBG 
GBBBBBBBGBGBBBBB 


Fig.  1. 


■BOGnnnaDBnBGGZB 

BBBGGGBGBBBGBGBB 
BBBBGBGBBBBISGBBM 
BBBGBGBBBBBBB^BB 
■BGBZZZBBBBBZpZB 

BCBZZZ^^BBBG^^iG 
aBZZZ_^„'^BZ_.-^_B 

BGBGZZ BG_.  Z_^a 

DBCBZZ_BBBZGCG^B 

■bbzb-bbbbb: azi 


■CDD'^^^^aGG-^GGG 

Fig.  2. 

two  sizes,  large  and  small,  alternately, 
both  warp  way  and  filling  way,  on  the 
drop  or  plain  weave  order  base. 

Brighton  cloth  is  not  essentially  a  cot- 
ton cloth,  the  Brighton  weave,  which 
distinguishes  the  fabric,  being  used  in 
fabrics  made  with  other  materials. 
The  Brighton  type  of  weave  is  used  in 
making  cloths  intended  vn-  dress  goods, 
also  in  combination  with  other  weaves 
to   form  parts   of  large  jacquard  pat- 


A   COTTON   FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


329 


terns,    in   substitution   for   the   honey- 
comb weaves. 

In  designing  the  jacquard  patterns 
care  must  be  exercised  to  have  the 
Brighton  weave  correct,  the  long  floats 
of  warp  and  filling  being  iu  certain  po- 
sitions in  relation  to  each  other,  or  the 
effect  will  be  spoiled.  For  illustration, 
Figs.  1  and  2  are  two  weaves  which 
at  first  glance  appear  to  be  similar. 
Fig.  1  is  a  correct  Brighton  weave  and 
differs  from  Fig.  2  in  having  the  long 


warp   flush   and   two   filling  flush   dia- 
monds of  equal  size. 

The  ridges  of  the  cells  in  the  cloth 
are  formed  by  the  long  floats  of  warp 
at  the  sides  and  the  long  floats  of  fil- 
ling at  the  top  and  bottom  of  each 
diamond.  The  two  sizes  of  cells 
are  formed  by  the  intervals  between 
the  ridges  being  greater  and  less  (as 
will  be  seen  by  Fig.  3,  which  simply 
indicates  the  ends  and  picks  covered 
by    the    long   floats   in    one    repeat   of 


Figr.   3. 


Fig.    4. 

floats  of  yarn  form  a  squiire.whereas  in 
the  latter  they  form  a  cross.  Figs.  3 
and  4  represent  the  long  floats  in  Figs. 
1  and  2,  respectively,  vertical  lines 
indicating  warp  floats  and  horizontal 
lines  filling  floats. 

Figures  5  to  7  illustrate  the  several 
stages  in  the  construction  of  a  12  x  12 
Brighton  weave.  Fig.  5  shows  the 
12  X  12  diamond  base.  Crosses  in  Fig. 
6  indicate  a  second  line  of  twill  in  one 
direction,  added  to  the  base.  Fig.  5. 
Marks  □  in  Fig.  7  indicate  where  warp 
spots  have  been  added  in  the  left  and 
right  hand  corners  of  the  large  spaces, 
the  same  now  being  divided  into  two 


DBDnDDDDDDDB 

DcmannaDoama 
aaomaaaanmoa 
DaaaBaDDBDDD 

DDDDDBDBDDDa 
DDaaDDBDDDDa 
aDDDDBDBDDDa 

naaamaanmaaa 
naauooaaamno 
Damonanaoama 

aBDDDDDDDnDB 
■DDDDnDaDDDa 

Fig.  5. 


oBDHHanaHHaB 
■DBDt:DDaaa«D 

DaDBDnaDDBuB 

aanQBnDQBDBa 
DnaEDBDBaBnn 
anaaEinBDBHaa 
naaaHBaBDGQQ 
DaaaBDBDBDaa 

DDaBnBDDDBDD 
DaBDBDDDDDBn 
OBCBaaDDOnDB 

BQBaaaaaaaaa 


DBannoacDDDB 

fflDBaQDDDDDBa 
CDDBDDLJDDBDffl 
nDDDBDDDBDfflU 
DDDDDBaBDBDD 
DDDnnGBDffiDDLl 
DDDDDBnBGDDn 
DDDDBOfflDBDnD 

DnnBOfflDDDBan 

DDBDfflnDDDDBD 
DBG^DnODDDDB 
BDffiDDDGDDDDLj 

Fig.   6. 


BOBOBDna 
DBDDDBnB 
BBBOBOBO 
□BDBBBDB 
BDDnBDBD 
nBDBDBDD 
BDBDBBBD 
BBOBOaaB 


Fig.  7. 


Fig.  8. 


weave  Fig.  1),  thereby  enclosing  larg- 
er and  smaller  areas,  alternately. 

Brighton  weaves  are  made  on  the 
same  number  of  ends  as  picks,  this 
number  being  a  multiple  of  4,  on 
from  8x8  upwards.  Figs.  1,  7  and  8 
are  the  weaves  generally  used,  the 
same  being  on  16  x  16,  12  x  12  and 
8x8  respectively. 

LOOM  REQUIRED. 

Brighton  cloth  is  woven  on  a  single 
box  dobby  loom  from  one  warp  and 
one  filling.  It  is  usually  woven  white 
and  piece  dyed  afterwards. 


GALATEA. 


Galatea  cloth  has  been  somewhat  in 
demand  the  past  two  or  three  years  by 
women  requiring  serviceable  and  neat- 
appearing  cotton  fabrics  at  a  medium 
price.  One  selling  house  advertises  it 
as  being  particularly  suitable  for  chil- 
dren's dresses  that  have  to  be  subject- 
ed to  excessive  wear,  washing  and 
ironing;  also  for  women's  outing  suits, 
and  shirtwaists. 

The  demand  appears  to  be  increasing, 
probably   partly   due   to  the  fact  that 


330 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


one  or  more  firms  are  specializing  on 
the  fabric  and  are  advertising  it. 
GALATEA 
is  usually  finished  27  inches  wide  and 
retails  at  14  to  2U  cents  per  yard.  It  is 
shown  in  plain  colors  as  well  as  in  fig- 
ured,   dotted    and   striped    designs   on 
white  and  colored  grounds.      The  pat- 
terns are  obtained  by  printing.   Some 
manufacturers  have     evidently     found 
that  they  can  take  a  standard  type  of 
fabric  and  extend  its  use  by  varying 
the  process  of  finishing  it.     The  base 
of  the  cloth,  i.  e.,  the  fabric  previous  to 
bleaching,  dyeing  or  printing,  is  noth- 
ing more  than  an  ordinary  5-end  warp 
sateen  of  fair  quality. 
A  galatea  in  a 

SIMPLE  STRIPE  PATTERN 
is  considered  here,  the  analysis  of 
which  shows  the  following  construc- 
tion data:  Width  of  cloth,  27  inches; 
ends  per  inch,  124;  picks  per  inch,  56; 
warp  counts,  233,  right  twist;  filling 
counts,  24s,  right  twist;  weight,  3% 
yards  per  pound;  weave,  5-end  warp 
satin.     (Fig.    1.) 


■  ■DIB 

Fig.   1. 


DDDaB 
DBDOa 
DDDBD 

■anDD 
aDBDn 

Fig-.  2. 


Each  selvedge  consists  of  24  ends 
working  as  12  and  weaves  2  picks  in  a 
shed.  The  cloth  has  been  reeded  5 
ends  per  dent  in  the  body  of  the  cloth 
and  6  ends  per  dent  in  the  selvedges. 
CALCULATIONS. 

27  inches  x  124  sley  equals  3,34S  ends, 
plus  S  extras  for  selvedges  (there  be- 
ing 1  end  per  dent  more  than  in  the 
groimd)    equals   3,356,    total    ends. 


ends  per  inch,  and  the  fact  that  four 
out  of  every  five  ends  are  required  to 
be  on  the  face  every  pick,  the  cloth  is 
woven  face  down  in  the  loom  and  the 
harnesses  actuated  as  shown  in  Fig.  2. 
The  drawing-in  draft  is  straight,  with 
the  ends  di'awn  one  through  each  hed- 
dle. 

FINISHING. 
The  finishing  of  galatea  is  of  simple 
character.  It  consists  in  bleaching,  it 
for  white,  and  printing,  if  for  colored, 
patterns.  A  light  starch,  just  enough 
to  make  the  fabric  handle  firm,  is  used. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Galatea  is  made  up  of  yarns  the  av- 
erage count  of  which  is  about  25s. 
For  this  article  we  will  consider  the 
warp  to  be  23s  and  the  filling  yarn  24s, 
both  right  twist.  The  cotton  used  for 
this  fabric  would  be  peeler  cotton  of 
a  medium  grade  and  1%-inch  staple. 
If  large  quantities  of  this  cloth  are  re- 
quired, the  mixing  should  be  done  by 
machines.  Any  of  the  methods  previous- 
ly described  may  be  used, the  object  be- 
ing to  have  a  dry,  fluffy  cotton  fed  to 
the  openers.  If  only  a  small  mixing  is 
going  to  be  used,  the  mixing  may  be 
done  by  hand,  but  when  mixed  in  this 
manner 

THE  MIXING 

should  be  allowed  to  stand  longer  be- 
fore using,  so  that  it  will  become  thor- 
oughly dry  and  not  have  to  be  fed 
green.  When  cotton  is  fed  green  to 
the  pickers  there  is  more  likelihood  of 
a  fire  at  these  machines.  The  cotton 
is  next  put  through  three  processes  of 
pickers  and  an  opener.  At  the  breaker 
picker  there  are  generally  two  sets  of 


3,356   (ends)   x  105   (length) 


23  (counts)  X  840 
30  (width  in  reed)  x  56  (pks.)   x  100  (length) 
24  (counts)  X  840 


=  18.24   lbs.    warp  in  100  yards  of  cloth. 


=  8.33   lbs.    filling. 


18.24  lbs.    warp. 
8.33  lbs.   filling. 

26.57  lbs.,  weight  of  100  yard  CB 
100  divided  by  26.57  =  3.76  yards  per  pound. 

When  weighing  a  small  sample  of 
the  cloth  under  consideration  5% 
square  inches  was  found  to  weigh  10.7 
grains, 

5%  (sq.  Inches)  x  7,000  (grs.) 
10.7  (weight)  X  27  In.  (cloth  width)  x  36  (lnche«  per  yard) 


cages  and  two  beaters.  The  first  beater 
that  the  cotton  comes  in  contact  with 
has  three  blades  and  its  speed  is  1,100 
revolutions    per    minute.       The      front 

=  3.78  yards  per  pound. 


LOOM  REQUIRED. 

Galatea  can  be  produced  most  eco- 
nomically on  single  box  cam  looms  in 
which  an  auxiliary  motion  is  used  for 
actuating  the  selvedge  yarns. 

.On   account  of  the  large  number  of 


beater  of  this  ms chine  has  two  blades 
and  its  speed  is  1,425  revolutions  per 
minute.     The  total 

WEIGHT  OF  THE  LAP 
at  this  machine  is  about  40  pounds,  al- 
though in  a  great  many  mills  the  laps 


A   COTTON   FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


S31 


at  the  front  of  the  breaker  aud  inter- 
mediate pickers  are  allowed  to  become 
as  large  as  can  be  handled  before  doff- 
ing them.  The  weight  per  yard  is  16 
ounces.  The  laps  from  the  breaker 
are  put  up  and  doubled  four  into  one  at 
the  intermediate.  The  beater  on  this 
machine  is  generally  of  a  2-bladed  type 
and  the  speed  of  it  1,400  revolutions 
per  minute.  The  total  weight  of  a  40- 
yard  lap  is  37Mj  pounds,,  or  a  1.5-ounce 
lap.  At  the  finisher  picker  the  beater 
may  be  either  the  pin  or  the  2-bladed 
rigid  type.  If  the  former,  the  speed 
should  be  about  1,350  revolutions  per 
minute,  and  for  the  rigid  type  1,450. 
It  will  be  at  once  seen  that  a  greater 
number  of  blows  will  be  struck  with 
the  pin  beater,  but  it  is  claimed  that 
the  pins  of  this  beater  enter  the  cotton 
and  do  not  strike  it  as  forcibly  as  the 
blade  of  a  rigid  type  beater.  On  the 
other  hand,  many  carders  object  to  the 
pin  beater,  especially  on  the  longer-sta- 
ple cotton,  claiming  that  it 

PUTS  IN  NEPS. 

For  this  fabric  the  total  weight  of  a  40- 
yard  lap  should  be  36i/4  pounds.  A  va- 
riation of  one-half  either  side  of  stand- 
ard should  be  allowed  and  every  lap 
weighed.  Look  out  for  split  laps  and 
see  that  every  part  of  the  picker  is 
working  freely,  that  the  evener  mo- 
tions are  in  perfect  order,  for  remem- 
ber, it  is  on  this  arrangement  that  the 
-evenness  of  the  lap  depends.  At  the 
card  the  draft  should  not  be  over  105. 
The  speed  of  the  licker-in  is  375  revo- 
lutions per  minute.  Flats  (110)  make 
■one  complete  revolution  every  45  min- 
utes. Use  medium  count  wire  fillet. 
Strip,  grind,  clean,  etc.,  as  given  in 
previous  articles.  The  production  for 
this  fabric  should  be  775  pounds  per 
week  of  60  hours  and  the  weight  per 
yard  of  sliver  should  be  60.  This  is 
then  put  through  three  processes  of 
drawing  frames.  For  this  class  of  goods 

METALLIC  ROLLS 
may  be  used  to  good  advantage.  For 
this  length  of  staple  with  metallic  top 
rolls  spread  the  bottom  steel  rolls  as 
follows:  Front  lo  second  1  5-16  inches; 
second  to  third,  1  7-16  inches;  third  to 
back,  1  9-16  inches.  If  leather  top 
rolls  are  used  instead,  close  rolls  a 
good  sixteenth.  The  speed  of  the  front 
roll  may  be  anything  up  to  400  revolu- 
tions per  minute,  according  to  the 
amount  of  drawing  needed.  As  has 
been  said  many  times  before,  as  this 
is  really  the  last  machine  at  which 
evening  takes  place  (to  any  great  ex- 
tent), watch  to  see  that  the  stop-mo- 
tions are  working  properly.  Also  watch 
the  clearers  and  see  that  the  sliver  is 


being  coiled  properly  in  the  can,  be- 
cause nothing  causes  more  waste  and 
trouble  than  poorly  coiled  sliver  in 
cans.  Size  four  times  a  day  and  allow 
a  variation  of  two  grains  per  yard  (av- 
erage) before  changing.  Scour  draw- 
ings frequently.  The  weight  per  yard 
of  sliver  at  the  finisher  drawmg  is  75 
grams  per  yard.  The  doublings  are  6 
into  1.  At  the  slubber  the  drawing  is 
made  into  .45  hank  roving,  after  which 
it  is  put  through  two  processes  of 

FLY    FRAMES 

and  made  into  the  following  hank  rov- 
ing at  each:  first  intermedia;e,  1.65; 
fine,  5  hank.  This  is  taken  to  the  spin- 
ning frame  and  for  the  warp  is  spun  in- 
to 23s, with  a  right-handedtwist.  Other- 
wise than  being  twisted  right-handed, 
the  particulars  are  as  follows:  2-inch 
diameter  ring,  7-inch  traverse,  9,500 
revolutions  per  minute  spindle  speed 
and  a  twist  per  inch  of  22.7  +  .  The 
yarn  is  then  spooled,  warped  and  put 
through  the  slasher. 

The  filling  yarn  for  this  fabric  is 
also  a  right  twist,  otherwise  the  partic- 
ulars for  the  frame  are  as  follows:  1^4- 
inch  diameter  ring,  6i/^-inch  trav- 
erse, spindle  speed  7,600  revolutions 
per  minute.  The  yarn  is  then  condi- 
tioned. 


Dyeing    Particulars. 
Following  are  dyeing  particulars  for 
100  pounds  of  goods. 

PINK. 

Four  ounces  Erica  pink  G;  10 
pounds  Glauber's;  1  pound  sal  soda. 

LIGHT  BLUE. 

Six  ounces  diamine  sky  blue  F  F; 
10  pounds  Glauber's;  1  pound  sal  soda. 

CREAM. 

Four  ounces  immedial  yellow  D;  2 
ounces  immedial  cutch  G;  1  pound 
sulphide  sodium;  2  pounds  soda  ash; 
10  pounds  salt. 

NAVY. 

Ten  pounds  immedial  indone  B;  10 
pounds  sulphide  sodium;  3  pounds 
soda  ash;   30  pounds  salt. 

WINE. 

Six  pounds  brilliant  Bordeaux  R;  2 
pounds  sal  soda;  30  pounds  Glauber's. 

TAN. 

One  pound  immedial  cutch  B;  1 
pound  immedial  yellow  D;  3  pounds 
sulphide  sodium;  30  pounds  salt;  3 
pounds  soda  ash. 


A   COTTON   FABRICS   GLOSSARY. 


VELOUR. 


Velour  is  a  type  of  filling  pile  fabric, 
of  fair  to  good  quality,  made  on  the 
weave  principles  explained  in  the  ar- 
ticle dealing  with  velveteens.  It  dif- 
fers from  velveteen  in  having  pile  fill- 
ing of  some  material  other  than  cotton. 

Velour  for  dress  and  cloaking  pur- 
poses is  made  with  2  or  3  ply  cotton 
yarns  for  the  warp  and  filling  of  the 
ground  cloth,  and  mohair  or  lustre 
worsted  filling  for  the  pile.  The  cloth 
widths  range  from  about  27  inches  to 
54  inches.  The  weights  and  qualities 
also  vary,  as  will  be  inferred  from  a  re- 
cent retail  price  list  for  32-inch  goods. 
These  prices  range  from  $2  to  $4  per 
yard. 

The  better  qualities  of  dress  velours 
are  usually  from  27  inches  to  32  inch- 
es wide. 

Large  quantities  of  velour  fabrics  are 
also  used  for  curtain  and  upholstery 
puiTJOses,  the  points  of  the  fibres  re- 
ceiving and  reflecting  the  light  and  in- 
dicating full,  deep  colors.  The  pecul- 
iar manner  in  which  the  cloth  is  con- 
structed makes  it  an  excellent  wearing 
fabric.  In  jute  velours,  which  are  used 
for  upholstery  purposes  to  a  greater 
extent  than  animal  fibre  pile  velours, 
the  pile  yarn  is  of  jute. 

In  dress  fabrics,  velours  are  usually 
of  solid  color.  For  upholstery  pur- 
poses they  are  of  solid  or  various  col- 
ors and  patterns,  the  result  of  print- 
ing, embossing,  cutting  or  burning. 

The  word  velour,  or  velure,  is  also 
given  to  a  pad  of  pile  fabric  used  by 
hatters  for  smoothing  and  giving  a 
lustre  to  the  surface  of  hats. 

THE  ANALYSIS 
of    a    characteristic    velour    fabric,    50 
inches  wide,  retailing  for  $2.25  per  yard, 
indicates    the    following    construction 
data:     Ends  per   inch,   68;    picks,   per 


68  (ends)   x  50  (width) 
3,400  X  105  (length) 


3,400  ends. 
42.5  lbs.   warp. 


10  (counts)  X  840 
45  (picks)  X  55  in.  (width  in  reed)  x  100  (length) 

15  X  S40 
21.13  oz?.   (weight  per  yard)  x  100  (length) 


inch,  225, including  45  ground  picks  and 
ISO  pile  picks;  warp  counts,  2-ply  20s 
cotton;  ground  filling  counts,  3-ply  453 
cotton;  pile  filling  ccunts,  25s  worsted; 
weight,  21.13  ounces  per  yard;  weave. 
Fig.  1.  The  picks  are  arranged  2 
ground  to  8  pile. 

When  analyzin.g  pile  fabrics  care 
must  be  taken  not  to  omit  to  consider 
the  structure  of  the  cloth.  If  analyzed 
as  an  ordinary  fabric  the  weave  for  the 
fabric  under  consideration  would  ap- 
pear as  shown  in  Fig.  2,  and  there 
woulc^  appear  to  be  an  equal  number  of 


DfflfflSDDnSBffiDG 
BODDefflSDDnfflffl 

■■DnnDDDODan 
■■cnnnnGDnnn 

DDnDnCBBDDDD 
DCanDnHBDDDD 
DDCBHDDCDanD 

DDDmmcaaaaaD 

DOCCDDCnCBBD 
DDCCnaDDDBBD 


Fig-.  1. 


afflfflfflaDDfflssna 

■■caacHBDHa 


Fig-.  2. 

CBfflffiDCceeeccnfflBffiDD 

B~Daffissncc:sa>euz:Gaffl 
mmcDODZz^nmmozaacca 

BBDDDDcnnBaazGCCDn 

nnnuDDBBCDCDCLJDBBa 
DDDDDCBBCCDCDDCBBD 
DDDBBDaDCDDCBBDnDD 

DaDBBDDnDcacBBcaaa 
Fig.  3. 

ground  as  pile  picks.  Fig.  3  shows  a 
weave  that  could  be  used  if  the  pile  was 
roquirer';  to  be  shorter  nnd  less  dense 
than  with  Fig.  1.  Crosses  in  Figs.  1 
to  3  indicate  ground  picks;  ■  indi- 
cate pile  picks. 

Another  point  to  consider  is  the 
method  of  ascertaining  the  counts  of 
the 

PILE  FILLING. 
Obviously  a  definite  length  cannot  be 
measure(i  with  any  degree  of  accuracy 
after  it  has  been  cut  into  very  small 
pieces.  Knowing  the  construction  and 
weight  of  the  fabric,  and  the  counts 
of  the  ground  yarns,  the  pile  yarn 
counts  may  be  found  as  follows: 


=  19.64   lbs.    Of   ground   filling. 


16  (ozs.  per  pound) 

42.5    lbs.   warp. 

19.64  lbs.  ground  filling. 

62.14  lbs.     ground    yarn. 
1S2.06  —  62.14  =  69.92    lbs.    pile   filling. 

180  (picks)  X  55  in.  (width  in  reed)  x  100  (length) 

f9  92  (lbs.)  X  560 


=  132.06   lbs.    weight    of  100  yard   cut. 


=  25  +  counts  of  pile  filling. 


A  COTTON  FABRIC'S  GLOSSARY. 


333 


LOOM  REQUIRED. 
Velours  require  a  two-box  dobby 
loom  of  heavy  pattern,  with  a  special 
take-up  motion  on  account  of  the  large 
number  of  picks  per  inch.  One  beam 
only  is  required. 

FINISHING. 

The  finishing  process  consists  of  cut- 
ting, singeing  or  gassing,  scouring, 
bleaching  (if  for  white),  dyeing  and 
drying.  Upholstery  goods  are  printed 
after  being  dried,  usually  by  the  dis- 
charge process.  Embossed  effects  are 
almost  entirely  confined  to  solid  col- 
or fabrics  and  are  obtained  by  pres- 
sure under  suitable  heated  and  pre- 
pared rollers. 

For  other  data  regarding  filling  pile 
fabrics  the  reader  is  referred  to  the 
article.-)  on  "Velveteen"  and  "Velve- 
teen  Cutting." 

Carding  and  Spinning   Particulars. 

Velour  is  made  out  of  two  different 
lengths  of  staple  of  American  peeler 
cotton  and  a  worsted  yarn.  The  counts 
of  yarn  used  in  the  sample  under  de- 
scription are  as  follows:  Warp  counts, 
2-ply  20s,  which  is  made  from  1  1-16- 
inch  stock,  and  for  ground  filling 
counts  3-45s,  which  is  mad?^  out  of 
1  5-16-inch  stock,  and  for  pile  filling, 
2r>s  v.'orsted  yarns,  which  is  eciiuil  to  a 
16  2-3s  (single)  cotton  yarn.  The  cot- 
tons for  both  lengths  of  staple  are  sta- 
pled in  the  usual  manner  and  in  largo 
mills  are  mixed  by  machines,  while  in 
small  mills,  or  mills  using  a  small 
quantity  of  these  lengths  of  staples,  the 
mixing  is  done  by  hand.  For  both 
stocks  the 

PICKING  PARTICULARS 
are  practically  the  same  and  one  meth- 
od will  answer  for  both.  They  are  put 
through  three  processes  of  pickers  and 
an  opener,  the  breaker  picker,  being 
known  as  a  combination  picker,  having 
two  sets  of  cages  and  two  beaters;  the 
first,  or  that  beater  coming  into  con- 
tact with  the  cotton  first,  has  three 
blades  and  revolves  at  a  speed  of  1,- 
125  revolutions  per  minute,  while  the 
front  beater  is  generally  two-bladed, 
having  a  speed  of  1,500  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  total  weigir,  of  ii  lap 
is  40  pounds  or  a  16-ounce  lap  These 
laps  are  put  up  at  the  intermediate 
picker  and  doubled  four  into  one.  At 
this  picker  the  beater  is  of  s  rigid, 
two-bladed  type  and  its  speed  is  1.425 
revolutions  per  minute  The  total 
weight  of  a  42-yard  lap  is  38^/^  pounds, 
or  a  141/^-ounce  lap.  At  the  finisher  pick- 
er, the  speed  of  a  three-bladed  pin 
beater  is  1,400  revolutions  per  minute, 
and  of  a  two-bladed    rigid  beater  1,450 


revolutions  per  minute.  The  total 
weight  of  a  50-yard  lap  is  46  pounds 
net  for  the  1  1-16-inch  stock  or  a  14V2- 
ounce  lap  and  39  pounds  net  or  a  I2V2- 
ounce  lap  for  the  1  5-16-inch  stock. 

AT  THE  CARD 
there  are  several  minor  changes  from 
one  stock  to  the  other,  the  principal 
ones  being  as  follows:  The  distance 
from  feed  plate  to  licker-in  should  be 
increased  so  as  notJLo  injure  or  break 
the  longer  staple.  For  the  shorter 
stock  the  draft  should  be  not  more 
than  100.  Set  feed  plate  to  licker-in 
to  7-1, 000th  gauge;  flats  to  cylinder, 
7-l,000ths;  doifer  to  cylinder.7-l,000ths; 
doffer  comb  to  doffer,  with  a  lO-l.OOOths 
gauge.the  other  settings  being  the  same 
as  those  used  for  indigo  prints.  For  the 
longer  stock  set  feed  plate  to  licker-in 
17-l,000ths;  flats  to  cylinder,  7-l,00Oths; 
doffer  to  cylinder,  5-l,0OOths,  etc.  The 
draft  for  this  length  of  staple  should 
not  be  less  than  "100  and  110  of  a  draft 
is  better.  The  percentage  of  all  waste 
at  the  card  for  1  1-16-inch  stock  should 
not  exceed  7^4  per  cent  and  for  1  5-16- 
inch  staple  Si/4  per  cent.  Strip,  grind 
and  clean  as  shown  formerly  when  the 
same  lengths  of  staple  were  being  de- 
scribed. The  weight  per  yard  for 
1  1-16-inch  staple  should  be  60  grains 
per  yard  and  for  the  1  5-16-iiich  stock, 
ob  grains  per  yard.     The 

PRODUCTION 
for  a  week  of  60  hours  should  be  as  fol- 
lows: 1  1-16-lnch  staple,  750  pounds 
and_^l  5-16-inch  staple,  550  pounds.  The 
1  5^6-inch  stock  is  combed  (although 
for  all  grades  of  velour  the  yarn  is  not 
combed).  The  general  method  follow- 
ed is  as  follows:  Sliver  lap  16  into  1  or 
an  S34-inch  lap;  weight  of  finished  lap 
per  yard,  420  grains.  The  sliver 
laps  are  doubled  6  into  1  or  to  a 
10^4 -inch  lap,  the  weight  being  440 
grains  per  yard.  These  laps,  in  turn, 
are  put  up  at  the  comber  and  doubled 
eight  into  one,  the  weight  of  the  fin- 
ished sliver  being  65  grains  per  yard. 
Set  the  comber  as  before  described  for 
this  length  of  st^iple.  For  this  class  of 
goods  16  per  cent  of  waste  is  taken  out. 
Use  one  of  the  receipts  for  varnish 
that  have  been  given  from  time  to 
time,  and  keep  all  leather  rolls  in  good 
condition,  no  matter  whether  they  are 
on  sliver  lap,  ribbon  lap,  combers, 
drawing  frames  or  slubbers  and  speed- 
ers. The  sliver  from  the  comber  is  put 
through 

TWO  PROCESSES  OF  DRAWING, 
the  doubling  6  into  1  at  each  process. 
The  speed  of  the  front     roll     depends 
upon  conditions,  but  a  fair  speed  is  350 
revolutions   per  minute.       The  weight 


A  COTTON  FABRICiS  GLOSSARY. 


per  yard  of  finished  sliver  is  75  grains. 
The  1  1-16-inch  stoclv  is  puit.  through 
three  processes  cf  drawing,  the  weight 
of  the  sliver  being  75  grains  per  yard. 
Size  at  the  ribbon  lap  twice  a  day,  an 
allowance  of  five  grains  per  yard  be- 
ing allowed  from  standard  before 
changing.  At  the  drawing  frame  size 
four  times  a  day,  a  variation  of  two 
grains  per  yard  being  allowed.  The 
drawing  frame  should  be  set  for  1  5-16 
inch  stock,  front  to  second,  1  7-16 
inch;  second  to  third,  1  9-16  inch  and 
third  to  back,  l%inch  for  leather  top 
rolls;  for  metallic  rolls,  spread  rollers 
%  to  %  of  an  inch  farther  apart. 

AT  THE  SLUBBER 

the  drawing  is  made  in  .60  for  both 
stocks,  after  which  the  slubber  roving 
is  put  through  two  processes  of  speed- 
ers for  20s  yarn,  the  hank  roving  at 
each  process  being  1.50  at  first,  and  4 
at  second.  This  is  spun  into  20s  on  a 
frame  with  a  two-inch  diameter  ring; 
7-inch  traverse;  21.24  twist  per  inch, 
and  spindle  speed  of  9,400  revolutions 
per  minute,  after  which  the  yarn  is 
spooled  and  twisted  into  2-20s  and  then 
warped  and  put  through  a  slasher.  The 
slubber  roving  for  45s  is  put  through 
two  processes,  the  hank  roving  at  each 
being  2.50  at  first  and  10  hank  at  the 
fine.  This  roving  is  spun  into  45s  on  a 
frame  with  1^-inch  diameter  ring;  5i/^- 
inch  traverse;  25  -f  twist  per  inch 
and  a  spindle  speed  of  8,500  revolu- 
tions per  minute.  The  yarn  is  then 
twisted  into  3-45s  yarn  and  condition- 
ed. 


Dyeing   Particulars. 

WINE. 

6  per  cent  brilliant  diamine  Bor- 
deaux R;  3  per  cent  sal  soda;  30  per 
cent  Glauber's;  topped  with  1  per  cent 
saffranine. 

NAVY    BLUE. 

8  per  cent  immedial  indogene  B;  8 
per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  3  per  cent 
soda  ash;  30  per  cent  salt;  topped 
with  1  per  cent  brilliant  green  G;  1 
per  cent  methyl  violet  B. 

OLIVE. 

6  per  cent  katigen  olive  G  N;  2  per 
cent  katigen  green  2  B;  1  per  cent  kat- 
igen bio\Tn  B;  topped  with  1  per  cent 
auramine;  1  per  cent  brilliant  green 
crys. 

BROWN. 

6  per  cent  immedial  cutch  G;  2  per 
cent  immedial  yellow  D;  1  per  cent 
immedial    brown    B;    10  per   cent  sul- 


phide of  soda;  3  per  cent  soda  ash; 
30  per  cent  salt;  topped  with  2  per 
cent  auramine;  2  per  cent  Bismarck 
brown. 

SLATE. 

3  per  cent  immedial  black  N  N;  4 
per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  3  per  cent 
soda  ash;  30  per  cent  salt;  topped 
with  4  ounces  methyl  violet  B;  1 
ounce  brilliant  green  B. 

GRAY. 

1  per  cent  immedial  black  N  N;  2 
ounces  immedial  yellow  D;  topped 
with  2  ounces  brilliant  green  B;  2 
ounces  methyl  violet  B. 

FAWN   BROWN. 

4  per  cent  immedial  brown  B;  2  per 
cent  immedial  brown  R  R;  6  per  cent 
sulphide  soda;  3  per  cent  soda  ash; 
30  per  cent  salt;  topped  with  2  per 
cent  Bismarck  brown  R. 

BOTTLE   GREEN. 

6  per  cent  immedial  green  B  B;  2 
per  cent  immedial  dark  green  B;  8  per 
cent  sulphide  sodium;  3  per  cent 
soda  ash;  30  per  cent  salt;  topped 
with  1  per  cent'  brilliant  green  B. 

PEACOCK  GREEN. 

4  per  cent  immedial  new  blue  G;  4 
per  cent  sulphide  sodium;  3  per  cent 
soda  ash;  25  per  cent  salt;  topped 
with  2  per  cent  brilliant  green  B. 

All  these  shades  are  dyed  with  the 
sulphur  colors,  well  rinsed  with  water 
and  dyed  again  at  180  degrees  P.,  and 
well  rinsed  in  water  again  and  dried. 

BLACK. 

10  per  cent  immedial  brilliant  black 
G;  10  per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  3  per 
cent  soda  ash;  30  per  cent  salt;  top- 
ped with  4  per  cent  immedial  indone 
B;  4  per  cent  sodium  sulphide;  3  per 
cent  isoda  ash;  20  per  cent  salt. 
Rinsed   and  soaped. 


GLORIA  SILK  or  GLORIA  CLOTH. 

Gloria  silk  or  gJoria  cloth  is  a  name 
applied  to  a  fabric  used  extensively  for 
umbrellas.  This  fabric  is  made  up  of 
fine  organzine  silk  warp,  and  either 
cotton,  worsted  or  mohair  filling. 

The  finest  grades  of  this  fabric  are 
made  with  a  fine  organzine  silk  warp 
and  fine  French  spun  Australian 
worsted  filling  of  a  very  high  texture, 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


335 


both  warp  and  filling,  while  in  the 
cheaper  grades  cotton  is  substituted 
for  worsted. 

The  fabric  made  with  silk  and  worst- 
ed is  oftentimes  used  as  a  dress  fab- 
ric, with  a  slight  change  in  texture; 
the  counts  of  the  materials  may  be  a 
little  finer  and  the  ends  and  picks  per 
inch  are  less  than  in  the  umbrella  fab- 
ric;?. 

The  fabric  used  as  dress  goods  is 
commonly  known  to  the  trade  as  lans- 
down.  This  fabric,  by  reason  of  the 
texture,  is  softer  to  the  touch  than 
the  gloria  cloth. 

Both  fabrics  are  made  in  the  gray, 
then  dyed  in  the  piece.  The  fabric 
used  for  umbrellas  is  usually  dyed 
black  and  the  fabric  intended  for  a 
dress  is  dyed  in  various  shades  of  solid 
colors,  such  as  lavender,  pink,  blue, 
sometimes  finished  in  pure  v/hite  or 
bleached  and  sometimes  the  goods  are 
dyed  black,  if  the  trade  desires  it. 

A  distinguishing  feature  of  these 
fabrics  in  conjunction  with  the  mate- 
rials used  is  the  weave,  which  is  a 
three-end  twill,  — j,  and  is  woven  in  a 
widtji  of  about  45  inches  in  reed. 

In  the  best  grades  of  the  umbrella 


DBIDH 
■■DBBQ 

mammam 

DBBDBB 
BBDBBG 
BQBBOB 

Fig.  1. 


DDDDQB 
DaaOBD 

DDDBnn 

DDBDDD 
aBODDD 
BDDDan 

Pig-.    2. 

fabric  the  construction  is  of  such  a 
high  texture  that  the  fabric  need  not 
be  waterproofed  as  are  some  fabrics 
used  as  a  protection  against  the  ele- 
iLents,  as,  for  instance,  raincloth,which 
is  raimproofed  during  the  finishing 
process.  The  texture  of  the  gloria 
cloth  is  sufficiently  compact  to  be  Im- 
pervious to  the  rain. 

ANALYSIS 

follows  of  fabrics  used  for  umbrellas 
and  also  fabrics  i;sed  for  dress  goods. 

First,  Gloria  cloth:  width  of  warp, 
in  reed,  45  inches;  width  of  fabric  fin- 
ished, 40-41  inches:  ends  per  inch  in 
reed,  55x3,  equal?  165;  ends  per  inch 
finished  fabric,  ISO;  warp,  VA  dram 
organzine   silk. 

Take-up  during  weaving,  8  per  cent. 

Practically  no  shrinkage  in  cloth  in 
length  during  finishing. 

Filling,  160  picks  per  inch;  l-70s 
French  spun  Australian  worsted. 


Second:  Lansdowne:  width  in  reed, 
45  inches;  width  of  fabric  finished, 
40-41;  ends  per  inch  in  reed,  150 — 50x3 
reed:  ends  per  inch  in  finished  fabric, 
IGS;    warp,  1^/4  dram  organzine  silk. 

Filling,  150  picks;  l-90s  French  spun 
Australian  worsted. 

These  fabrics  are  woven  on  harness 
looms;  the  warp  is  .drawn  straight  on 
six  harnesses,  through  French  string 
heddles.  This  particular  heddle  is  al- 
most   indispensable    in    silk    v/eaving. 

Fig.  1,  two  repeats  of  weave. 

Fig.  2,  drawing-in  draft. 


Carding    and    Spinning    Particulars. 

Gloria  cloth  is  made  up  from  many 
different  raw  stocks  and  may  be  either 
composed  of  worsted,  silk,  mohair  or 
cotton  yarns  or  a  combination  of  any 
two.  Gloria  is  sometimes  called  um- 
brella cloth  on  account  of  its  extensive 
use  for  covering  this  article,  ond  when 
used  for  this  purpose  it  is  generally 
constructed  from  cotton  yarns.  The 
counts  of  the  yarn  used  vary  from  40s 
to  60s,  but  a  good  average  would  be  453 
for  both  warp  and  filling.  The  raw 
stock  used  for  the  better  cloth  is  Egyp- 
tian cotton  of  1%-inch  staple,  but  it 
is  the  general  rule  nowadays  to  mix 
Allen  1%-inch  staple  cotton  with  the 
Egyptian,  so  as  to  cheapen  the  cloth, 
the  proportion  of  American  cotton 
used  varying  from  one-sixth  to  one- 
half,  the  blending  being  generally  done 
at  the  breaker  drawing  frame.  The 
cottons  should  be  mixed  and  up  to 
the  drawing  frame  run  separately. 
They  should  be  mixed  in  the  usual 
manner;  if  a  bale  breaker  is  used  bet- 
ter results  will  be  obtained  and  the 
mixings  will  not  have  to  stand  as  long 
to  dry  out  as  when  hand  mixings  are 
made.  The  cotton  is  put  through  an 
opener  and  three  processes  of  pickers. 
On  the  opener  the  stripping  roll  should 
be  set  about  one-half  an  inch  from  the 
lifting  roll  and 

THE  HOPPER 
should  always  be  kept  three-quarters 
full  of  cotton.  Ihe  processes  of  pick- 
ers used  may  be  three,  as  stated  before, 
or  two,  the  breaker  being  what  is 
known  as  a  combination  picker,  that  is, 
having  two  beaters  and  two  sets  of 
cages.  For  various  reasons  the  latter 
method  is  consideied  the  better  of  the 
two.  In  this  article  we  will  consider 
the  processes  to  be  three  separate  pick- 
ers, although  the  speeds  of  the  beaters 
given  may  be  used  if  two  processes  of 
pickers  are  used.  The  speed  of  the 
breaker  beater  is  1.350  for  a  tv/o-bladed 
beater  and  900  revolutions  per  minute 
for   a   three-bladc.l   beater.'    The   total 


536 


A  COTTOX  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


weight  of  a  lap  at  the  front  would  be 
about  40  pounds,  or  a  16-ounce  lap. 
These  are  doubled  5  into  1  at  the  inter- 
mediate picker.  The  speed  of  the 
beater  of  this  picker  is  1,300  revolu- 
tions per  minute.  The  total  weight  of 
a  lap  at  this  machine  is  371/4  pounds.or 
a  15%-ounce  lap.  These  laps  are  put 
up  at  the  finisher  picker  and  doubled  4 
into  1.  The  speed  of  this  beater  is  1,200 
revolutions  per  minute,  and  the  weight 
of  a  lap  is  31^^  pounds,  or  a  12i^-ounce 
lap. 

THE  SPEEDS 

of  the  beater  given  above  are  for  the 
Egyptian  stock.  The  Allen  seed  would 
require  a  higher  speed  of  the  beater 
to  get  the  dirt  out,  the  increase  be- 
ing about  100  revolutions  por  minute 
at  each  process.  Every  lap  should  be 
weighed  as  it  is  taken  from  Vxr-  finisher 
picker,  a  variation  of  oue-halE  a  pound 
from  the  standard  weight  being  al- 
lowed. The  laps  are  then  put  up  at 
the  card  and  given  a  draft  of  110.  The 
speed  of  the  flats  is  one  complete  revo- 
lution every  40  minutes;  set  and  grind 
as  usual.  The  production  should  be 
about  500  pounds  a  week  of  60  hours, 
the  weight  of  the  sliver  being  50  grains 
per  yard.  Strip  cards  three  times  a 
day  for  a  10y2-hour  day.  The  card  sliv- 
er is  next  put  through  a  sliver  lap  ma- 
chine, the  doublings  for  an  S%-inch 
lap  being  16  into  1.  The  weight  of  a 
yard  of  this  lap  at  the  front  is  280 
grains.  These  are  put  up  at  the  rib- 
bon lap  machine  and  doubled  6  into  1. 
The  weight  of  a  yard  of  lap  at  the  front 
of  this  machine  is  275  grains  per  yard. 
The  spread  of  the  rolls  at  the  ribbon 
lap  for  this  staple  is,  front  to  second, 
1%  inches;  second  to  third,  I'K -inches; 
third  to  back,  1%  inches.  These  laps 
are  put  up  at  the  comber  and  doubled 
either  6  or  S  into  1,  according  to  the 
number  of  heads  the  comber  contains. 
For  this  article  we  will  assume  6.  The 
speed  is  90  nips  per  minute,  the 
weight  of  sliver  delivered  being  40 
grains  per  yard.  The  percentage  of 
waste  taken  out  is  16.  If  larger  laps 
than  S%  Inches  are  used  the  weight  of 
thf  lap,  etc.,  will  be  proportionately 
heavier.  Set  and  time  as  given  in  a 
previous  article.  At  the  drawing  frame 
the  doubling  at  each  of  the  two  proc- 
esses used  is  6  into  1.  It  is  at  this  ma- 
chine that  the  blending  is  done,  three 
ends  of  American  cotton  being  run  in 
with  three  ends  of  Egyptian. 

THE  WEIGHT 

of  the  drawing  at  the  front  should  be 
50  grains  per  yard.  The  rolls  should 
be  set  as  follows:  front  to  second,  1% 
inches;  second  to  third,  1%  inches, and 


third  to  back,  1%  inches.  Size  four 
times  a  day  and  allow  a  variation  of 
two  grains  per  yard  either  side  of 
standard  before  changing.  Varnish 
and  change  leather  top  rolls  frequently. 
At  the  slubber  the  silver  is  made  into 
.70  hank  roving  and  is  then  put  through 
three  processes  of  fly  frames,  the  hank 
roving  at  each  process  being  as  fol- 
lows: First  intermediate,  1.40  hank; 
second  intermsdiate,  3.40  hank,  and 
fine  frame,  9.10  hank.  The  twist  per 
inch  put  into  the  roving  is  very  im- 
portant and  for  making  these  yarns 
the  following  twists  are  used  at  the 
slubber:  73  turns  per  inch;  first  inter- 
mediate, 1.01  per  inch;  second  interme- 
diate, 1.85  per  inch,  and  fine,  3.7  per 
inch.  Lay  close  and  size  fine  frames 
once  a  day,  and  slubbers  once  a  week. 

BETTER   RESULTS 

are  obtained  if  either  self-weighted 
rolls  are  used  on  the  fine  frames  or  if 
not  using  self-weighted  rolls  take 
weight  off  of  second  roll  and  take  one 
tooth  of  draft  out  between  second  and 
third  rolls.  Watch  the  leather  rolls 
to  see  that  they  are  in  perfect  condi- 
tion. The  yarn  is  taken  to  the  mule 
room  and  spun  with  a  soft  twist  for 
both  warp  and  filling;  the  warp  yarn 
is  then  run  on  to  spools,  after  which  it 
is  warped  and  slashed  and  is  then 
ready  for  the  beam.  Particular  care 
has  to  be  taken  with  this  fabric  to 
keep  it  free  from  neps  on  account  of 
their  showing  up  so  plainly  when  made 
up  on  the  umbrella,  and  it  is  a  good 
plan  to  watch  the  beaters,  fiats  and 
settings  at  the  card,  percentage  and 
settings  at  the  comber. 


Dyeing  Particulars. 

Gloria  cloth  is  made  for  the  umbrel- 
la trade.  When  composed  of  silk  and 
wool  it  is  dyed  by  special  colors,  made 
by  such  firms  as  the  Gassella  Color 
Co.,  Continental  Co.  and  others,  the 
colors  dyeing  wool  and  silk  in  one  bath. 
For  cheap  imitation  gloria  cloths  of 
cotton  and  wool,  a  union  black  is  dy- 
ed: 5  per  cent  union  black  B,  20 
per  cent  Glauber's  salt.  Boil  forty 
minutes,  and  run  without  steam  for 
forty   minutes  longer. 

For 

ALL  COTTON  CHEAP  GLORIAS, 

which  are  not  glorias  at  all,  as  the 
only  real  gloria  cloth  is  made  from 
silk  and  wool,  the  aniline  salt  black 
is  dyed;  the  goods  are  passed  through 
a  solution  of  aniline  salt,  dyed  and 
aged   and   developed   and  washed. 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


337 


Canvas  is  a  term  applied  to  heavy, 
plain  weave  cloths  made  with  coarse, 
ply  cotton  yarns.  It  does  not  refer 
to  any  particular  grade  or  weight  of 
cloth. 

Canvas  cloth  is  used  for  mail  bags, 
coverings  for  boats,  in  the  manufac- 
ture of  tents,  etc.  The 
ANALYSIS 
of  a  heavy  characteristic  canvas  fab- 
ric indicates  the  following  construc- 
tion data:  ends  per  inch,  31;  picks 
per  inch,  24;  warp  counts,  G-14s;  filling 
counts,  9-14s;  cloth  width,  24  inches; 
reed  width,  25^/4  inches;  weight,  .72 
(72-100)  yard  per  pound;  plain  weave. 
A  characteristic  feature  of  heavy,  plain 
cotton  fabrics  is  seen  in  this  cloth  in 
that  the  warp  has  contracted  in  length 
about  25  per  cent.  Goods  of  this  char- 
acter would  be  woven  on  heavy  cam 
looms  of  the  type  used  for  weaving 
duck. 

Fig.  1  is  a  weave  of  the  mock  leno 
type,  sometimes  termed  a  canvas 
weave.    Cloth  made  with  this  weave 


■■DaiDML 

DDGDHMI 

-■GOaGBBL 


Fig.    L 

is  characterized  by  small  perforations, 
caused  by  some  of  the  ends  and  picks, 
indicated  by  the  arrows,  cutting  or  op- 
posing each  other,  while  other  ends 
and  picks  in  the  same  weave  come 
closely  together.  This  cloth  is  usoi 
as  a  base  or  ground  for  embroidery 
work  and  the  perforations  noted  have 
a  distinctive  value  as  an  aid  in  indicai  • 
ing  readily  where  to  insert  the  needle. 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Canvas  is  made  up  in  a  great  many 
grades,  but  usually  the  counts  of  the 
yams  do  not  vary  as  much  for  the  dif- 
ferent grades  as  for  different  grades  of 
finer  fabrics.  The  sample  of  canvas 
taken  for  description  is  made  up  of 
6-]4s  warp  and  9-14s  filling.  This  count 
of  yarn  (considering  the  fabric)  would 
be  made  up  of  from  15-16  to  1 1-16  inch 
staple,  of  a  medium  grade,  and  for 
this  grade  of  fabric  the  cotton  would 
not  be  combed.     If  lai^e  mixings  are 


required,  i.  e.,  over  60  bales  a  day,  a 
bale  breaker  should  be  used  or  some 
arrangement  made  whereby  the  mixing 
can  be  done  by  machines;  if  a  smaller 
amount  of  cotton  is  required,  then  a 
hand  mixing  will  answer.  It  will  be 
found  a  great  advantage  to  use  ma- 
chinery for  mixing;  any  of  the  up-to- 
date  machines  and  systems  are  all 
right.  The  cotton  is  next  put  through 
an  opener  and  three  processes  of  pick- 
ers. The  pin  roll,  or,  as  it  is  sometimes 
called,  the  evener  roll,  should  be  set 
about  one-half  an  inch  from  the  lift- 
ing apron.  The  breaker  picker  is  what 
is  known  as  a  combination  picker,hav- 
ing  two  sets  of  beaters  and  two  sets  of 
cages. 

THE  BEATER 
that  first  receives  the  cotton  is  general- 
ly of  a  three-bladed  type  and  its  speed 
is  1,400  revolutions  per  minute.  The 
froni?  beater  of  this  same  machine  has 
two  blades,  and  its  speed  is  1,450  rev- 
olutions per  minute.  The  total  weight 
of  a  lap  at  the  front  end  of  this  ma- 
chine is  40  to  50  pounds,  according  to 
length  of  lap  run.  Some  overseers  do 
not  have  a  full  lap  knock-off  on  either 
the  bi'eaker  or  the  intermediate  picker, 
but  the  attendant  doffs  this  lap  at  will. 
These  breaker  laps  are  doubled  four 
into  one  at  the  intermediate  picker. 
This  picker  is  equipped  with  an  even- 
er motion  and  has  a  two-bladed  beater, 
the  speed  of  which  is  1,400  revolutions 
per  rainute.  The  weight  of  a  full  lap 
is  about  40  pounds,  but  generally  this 
picker  has  no  full  lap  knock-off,  so 
the  laiis  would  weigh  more  or  less 
for  a  full  lap,  but  just  the  same  per 
yard.  Four  of  these  laps  should  be  don- 
bled  into  one  at  the  finisher  picker. 
This  is  equipped  with  a  pin  beater,  the 
speed  of  which  is  1,400  revolutions  per 
rainute.  The  total  weight  of  a  46-yard 
lap  is  iSV2  pounds  gross,  or  46  pounds 
net.  or  a  12-ounce  lap.  Every  lap 
should  be  weighed  on  this  kind  of 
stock,  for  it  is  generally  a  very  sensi- 
tive cotton  to  weather  conditions. 
Watch  the  evener  motions  to  see  that 
they  are  working  properly  and  are 
clean.  Run  good  sliver  waste  up  in  the 
usual  manner.  At  the  cards  the  draft 
should  not  exceed  100  and  the  flats 
should  make  one  complete  revolution 
every  40  minutes;  set  and  grind  as  in- 
structions in  article  on  indigo  prints. 
Strip  out  every  three  hours  or  three 
times  (both  cylinder  and  doffer)  a  day 
for  a  lOV^-hour  day.  If  humidifiers  are 
run, 

THE  HmnDITY 
should  lie  about  55  degrees.     The  pro- 
duction of  a  card  for  a  week  of  60  hours 
should  be     650    to    750     pounds,     the 


338 


A  COTTON  FABRICS  GLOSSARY. 


■weight  of  the  sliver  being  55   .  grains 
per  yard.     The  card  sliver  is  next  run 
through  either  two  or  three  processes 
of  drawing  as  required  for  the  quality 
of   the    canvas.     In    the    sample    three 
processes  are  used,  six  ends  up  at  each 
process.    The   spread  of  the   rolls  for 
1-inch  stocli  with  leather  top  rolls  is 
as  follows:  front  to  second,  1%  inches; 
second  to  third,  1  3-16  inches;  third  to 
back,       1%       inches.      For      metallic 
top    rolls     spread    of    rolls     %     inch 
wider       all       through.       Watch.       all 
stop-motions       on        tbis        machine, 
for     practically     the     last     doubling 
is  done  at  this  machine,  so  that  it  is 
very   important  to   see  that  the   stop- 
motions  are  in  good  order.       "Varnish 
rolls  as  often  as  possible,  and  see  that 
clearers  are  properly  placed  and  pick- 
ed.   The    sliver    should    be    sized   four 
times     a   day  and     should   weigh     75 
grains  per  yard.     If     humidifiers     are 
used  over  these  machines,  they  should 
give  a  mean  temperature  of  60  to  65  de- 
grees.    The    drawing     sliver     is     run 
through    the    slubber,    and   made   into 
40  hank  roving.  The  settings  for  rolls 
at  this  machine  are  as  follows:   front 
to  second,  1  1-16  inches,  and  second  to 
back,  1%  inches.     Clean  steel  rolls  of 
all    laps,    etc.     The   slubber   roving   is 
then  put  through  two  processes  of  fly 
frames,  at  the  first  intermediate  being 
made  into  1  hank  roving  and  at  the  sec- 
ond, 3     hank  roving.   The  roving     on 
the  finer  frame  should  be  sized  once  a 
day,  the     roll   settings  used  for     both 
oeing  front  to  second,  1-16  inches  and 
second  to  back,  1^4  inches;   the  doub- 
lings at  each  being  2  into  1. 

AT  THE  SPINNING  ROOM 
the  roving  is  spun  into  14s  on  a  warp 
frame  with  a  3-inch  gauge  of  frame,  7- 
inch  traverse,  214-inch  diameter  ring, 


17.77  twist  per  inch  and  a  spindle  speed 
of  9,000  revolutions  per  minute.  This 
is  then  doubled  into  6-14s  or  6-ply  143, 
after  which  it  is  put  through  a  slasher 
and  run  on  a  beam. 

The  14s  filling  yarn  is  made  on  a  IVz- 
inch  diameter  ring,  6i/^-inch  traverse, 
a  12.16  twist  per  inch  and  a  spindle 
speed  of  6,800  revolutions  per  minute. 
This  yarn  is  then  twisted  into  9-ply  14s 
or  9-14s,  after  which  it  is  conditioned, 
when  it  is  ready  to  be  woven. 


BACK-CLOTH. 


Back-cloth  is  a  reinforcing  cloth 
used  in  calico  printing  to  support  h 
fabric  being  printed.  Any  plain  cloth 
of  suitable  width  may  be  used  as  a 
back-cloth,  therefore  the  term  does 
not  refer  to  any  particular  width, 
weight  or  quality  of  fabric. 

The  back-cloth  passes  through  th«i 
printing  machine  between  the  ma- 
chine and  the  cloth  to  be  printed 
Both  cloths,  the  back  and  the  printed, 
emerge  from  the  printing  machine  to- 
gether. The  back-cloth  is  immediate- 
ly folded,  whereas  the  printed  cloth 
goes  through  other  machines  to  "set"^ 
the  color.  The  color  on  the  back 
cloth,  not  being  "set,"  is  easily  washed 
out.  In  a  public  cloth  finishing  es- 
tablishment, the  back-cloth  is  usually 
bleached,  after  serving  its  purpose  at 
the  printing  machine,  and  finished  as 
required.  The  back-cloth  is  usually 
wider  than  the  cloth  it  is  intended  to 
support,  and  the  color  touches  it  only 
lightly  on  the  outer  portions. 


App^ttbtx. 


CRASH, 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 
Crash  is  generallj-  composed  of 
yai-ns  varying  from  14s  to  20s,  both 
warp  and  filling  having  the  same 
count  of  yarn.  This  class  of  fabric  is 
made  from  cotton  whose  staple  varies 
from  "s  to  1  1-16  inches.  For  this  article 
we  will  consider  the  counts  of  the  yarn 
to  be  16s  and  the  staple  of  the  cotton 
1  1-16  inches  in  length.  If  large  lots 
of  this  class  of  goods  are  to  be  han- 
dled, say  over  35,000  pounds  per  week, 
preparing  machines  should  be  used, 
which  are  nothing  more  or  less  than 
several  (from  3  to  7,  according  to 
capacity  of  mill)  hoppers  or  openers 
in  a  row  delivering  the  cotton  on  to 
an  endless  apron  which  carries  it  to 
and  drops  it  into  a  line  of  trunking. 
The  cotton  is  conveyed  to  the  mixiag 
bins  through  this  trunking,  the  motive 
power  being  powerful  fans.  This  al- 
lows the  cotton,  when  it  reaches  the 
bins,  to  be  in  a  fluffy  dry  state.  This 
cotton  is  next  fed  to  the  openers  and 
is  passed  through  three  processes  of 
picking.     At  the 

BREAKER  PICKER 
the   cotton    passes  through   first   a   3- 
bladed  rigid  type  of  beater, which  has  a 
speed  of  1,100  revolutions  per  minute, 
and  then  a  2-bladed  beater,  the  speed 
of  which  is  1,375  revolutions  per  min- 
ute.    The  total  weight  of  a  lap  is  40 
pounds,  or  a  16-ounce  lap.     At  the  in- 
termediate picker  the  speed  of  the  2- 
bladed  better  is  1,300  revolutions  per 
minute,  and  the  weight  of  the  lap  is  38 
pounds,  or  a  13-ounce  lap.  At  the  fin- 
isher picker  there  is  a  pin  beater  (three 
arms)  the  speed  of  which  is  1,350  revo- 
lutions per  minute.     The  total  weight 
of  a  52-yard  lap  is  46  pounds  net,  or  a 
14%-ounce   lap.    Allow  o-ne-half  pound 
variation     either      side    of     standard 
weight.     At  the  card,  set  the  same  as 
for  indigo  prints.     The  top  flats  should 
make  one  complete  revolution  every  45 
minutes.     The  sliver  should  weigh   60 
grains   per   yard,    and    the   production 
should  be  775  to  825  pounds  per  week 
of   sixty      hours.        Watch      the    set- 
ting points     to     see     that     all     cards 
are       set       as     nearly      as      possible 
alike.     Strip    three    times   a    day   and 
watch  help  to  see  that  they  strip  ev- 
ery card.     Grind  as  before  stated.    The 


sliver  is  next  put  through  three  proc- 
esses of  drawing  frames.  The  speed  of 
the  front  roll  at  the  finisher  for  this 
stock  should  be  350  to  400  revolutions 
per  minute,  and  the  weight  per  vard  of 
lap  75  grains.  Watch  the  knock-off 
motions  to  see  that  they  are  all  in 
proper  working  condition.  For  this 
class  of  work  metallic  top  rolls  mav  be 
used  to  excellent  advantage.  Size  four 
times  a   day. 

THE   DRAWING   SLIVER 

is  put  through  the  sUibber  and  made 
into  .46  hank  roving  and  from  here 
put  through  two  processes  of  fly  frames, 
at  the  first  intermediate  being  made 
into  l.IO  hank,  and  at  the  second  in- 
termediate, or  in  this  case  the  fine 
frame,  3.25  hank.  Keep  the  top  rolls 
in  good  condition  and  the  bottom  steel 
rolls  set  properly.  This  roving  is  tak- 
en to  the  spinning  frame  and  spun 
into  16s  warp  j-arn  on  a  frame  with 
234-mch  gauge  of  frame.  2-inch  diam- 
eter ring.  7-inch  traverse  and  spindle 
speed  of  9,400  revolutions  per  minute 
Twist  per  inch.  19.  This  varn  is  then 
spooled,  warped  and  put  through  the 
slasher,  where  it  is  heavily  sized. 

The  3-hank  roving  for  the  filling 
yam  is  spun  into  16s  filling  on  a  frame 
with  1%-inch  diameter  ring,  6%-inch 
traverse.  13  twist  per  inch  and  spindle 
speed  of  7.000  revolutions  per  minute. 
After  leaving  the  spinning  frame  the 
yarn  is  conditioned. 


HAMMOCK  CLOTHS, 

Carding   and  Spinning   Particulars. 

Hammock  cloth  is  generally  made  in 
mills  making  low  counts  of  yarn,  or  in 
mills  or  small  plants  which  make  a 
specialty  of  this  one  grade  of  goods 
The  counts  as  well  as  the  staple  of 
the  cotton  differ  according  to  the  qual- 
ity of  the  fabric  to  be  made  There 
IS  also  another  factor  which  enters  in- 
to the  manufacture  of  this  class  of 
fabric  and  that  is  its  strength. 
Strength  in  yarn  may  be  obtained  by 
several  different  methods.either  doub- 
ling and  twisting  two  or  more  vams 
together  or  using  a  longer  staple  or 
a  combination  of  lx>th,  alwavs  con- 
sidering that  machines  through  the 
mill  are  properiy  adjusted  and  set 
Another  method  to  obtain  strength  is 
to  twist,  tighten,  or  in  other  words  put 
i2D 


340 


APPENDIX. 


iu  more  twist  iier  inch.  For  ttie  sam- 
ple of  hammock  cloith  we  will  suppose 
it  to  be  made  up  of  3-lOs  warp  and  fill- 
ing, and  we  will  assume  the  staple  of 
the  cotton  to  be  %  inch  in  leng-th, 
straight  cotton  being  used  in  the  mix- 
ing. In  the  cheaper  grades  of  this 
cloth  comber  and  card  stripping  waste 
is  put  into  the  mixings  in  certain  pro- 
portions. The  cotton  would  be  mixed 
by  hand  and 

TWO  PROCESSES 
of  picliing  used.  The  cotton  should  be 
allowed  to  stand  as  long  as  poissible  to 
dry  out  so  as  to  be  more  easily  work- 
ed, and  it  also  lessens  the  liability  of 
fires  in  the  picker.  The  breaker  pick- 
er should  be  a  combination  picker  with 
two  sets  of  screens  and  two  beaters. 
The  back  beater  has  three  blades  and 
has  a  speed  of  1,000  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  forward  beater  has  two 
blades  and  has  a  speed  of  1,400  revo- 
lutions per  minute.  If  the  lap  meas- 
ures 40  yards,  the  weight  should  be  40 
pounds  or  a  IG-ounce  lap.  Generally, 
however,  the  lap  is  alloweid  to  run  as 
large  as  possible  before  being  doffed. 
These  laps  are  doubled  4  into  1,  and 
coroe  under  the  action  of  a  two-bladed 
rigid  beater,  the  speed  of  which  should 
be  about  1,375  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  main  points  are  to  look  out  for 
fires,  keep  lappers  very  near  full,  watch 
the  eveners  and  piano  motions'  and 
keep  all  parts  in  good  working  order. 
The  total  weight  of  a  lap  at  the  finish- 
er, for  a  40-yard  lap  should  be  37 
pounds,  or  a  141^-O'unce  lap.  Weigh 
every  lap  and  allow  a  variation  of 
three-quarters  of  a  pound  either  side 
of  standard.  These  laps  are  then  put 
up  at  the  card,  which  is  fitted  with 
coarse  wire  fillet. 

THE  DRAFT 
should  not  be  more  than  90  and  the 
speed  of  cylinder  165  revolutions  per 
minute  and  the  licker-in  speed  350  rev- 
olutions per  minute.  Flats  make  one 
revolution  every  50  minutes  (110  fiats). 
Strip  cylinders  three  times  a  day  and 
doffer  two  times.  The  weight  of  the 
sliver  should  be  G5  grains  per  yard  and 
the  production  not  less  than  950 
pounds  for  a  week  of  60  hours.  The 
cotton  is  next  put  through  two  proc- 
esses of  drawing  frames,  the  doublings 
being  S  into  1  at  the  breaker  and  '6 
into  1  at  the  finisher.  The  weight  per 
yard  at  the  finisher  drawing  should  be 
80  grains;  size  three  times  a  day.  Me- 
tallic rolls  may  be  used  to  good  ad- 
vantage for  this  class  of  work.  Watch 
all  the  knock-off  land  sitop-motions 
at  this  machine  and  also  look  out  for 


cut  drawing.  The  roll  setting  for  me- 
tallic rolls  for  seven-aighths  inch  stock 
is,  front  to  second,  li/g  inches-,  second 
to  third,  1^4  inches,  and  third  to  back, 
IVz  inches.  In  a  great  many  mills  the 
sliver  at  the  drawing  frame  is  sized 
only  twice  a  day.  The  cans  of  draw- 
ing are  put  up  to  and  run  through  the 
slubber,  which  makes  it  into  .60  hank 
roving,  which  is  afterwards  put 
through  one  process  of  fiy  frames  and 
made  into  two  hank  roving.  Size  this 
class  of  roving  once  a  day  at  the  fine 
frame.  Look  out  to  see  that  the 
hank  clock  cannot  be  moved  and  hanks 
made.  It  is  next  taken  to  the  spinning 
room  and  made  into  10s  for  warp  on  a 
frame  with  3-inch  gauge  of  frame. 
21^ -inch       diameter  ring,       7-inch 

traverse  and  spindle  speed  of  8,600 
revolutions  per  minute,  after  which  it 
is  twisted  into  3-ply  10s  at  twister, 
and  then  spooled,  warped  and  put 
through  the  slasher.  For  the  filling 
jarn  the  two  hank  roving  is  spun  on 
a  filling  frame  with  a  1%-inch  diame- 
ter ring.  7-inch  traverse  and  spindle 
speed  of  6,400  revolutions  per  minute, 
after  which  it  is  twisted  into  3-ply  10s. 


MADRAS. 


Carding   and   Spinning   Particulars. 

Madras  is  made  up  of  various 
counts  of  yarn  according  to  the  qualitx 
wanted,  and  in  the  finer  qualities  of 
this  fabric,  silk  is  used  for  the  stripes. 
Egyptian  or  a  fine  Sea  Island  cotton 
is  generally  used  in  the  finer  qualities. 
In  this  ai'ticle  we  will  consider  the 
filling  yarn  to  be  made  up  of  80s  Egyp- 
tian cotton  with  a  staple  of  1%  inches. 
Bigyptian  cotton,  generally  sipeaking, 
is  more  easily  worked  than  American 
cotton,  and  for  this  reason  higher  speed  i 
are  used  than  when  the  same  counts 
of  yarn  are  made  from  American  cct- 
ton.  The  cotton  is  generally  mix^d 
by  hand,  after  which  it  is  put  through 
three  processes  of  pickers.  At  the 
breaker  picker  the-  speed  of  the  three 
bladed  beater  is  1  050  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  total  weight  of  the  lap 
at  the  front  of  this  machine  is  4'» 
pounds,  or  an  IS-^ounce  lap.  At  the 
intermediate  picker  the  speed  of  a  two- 
bladed  beater  is  1,450  revolutious  per 
minute,  while  the  total  weight  is  3S 
pounds,  or  a  12-'0«nce  lap.  These  are 
put  up  at  the  finisher  picker  and  run 
through  a  two-bladed  rigid  beater, 
the  speed  of  which  is  1,400  revolutions 
per  minute.     The  total  weight  of  a  50- 


A  PPEN  DIX. 


341 


yard  lap  is  ZlVz  pounds.or  a  12i^-ounce 
lap.  Allew  the  usual  amount  of  va- 
riation from  standard  weight  of  lap, 
and  follow  instructions  for  the  picker 
room  for  high-grade  and  fine  yarns. 
The  cotton  is  next  passed  to  the  card. 

THE  DRAFT 

of  this  card  should  not  be  less     than 
110.     The   top   flats  should   make   one 
complete  revolution  every  30  minutes. 
The  speed   of  the  licker-in  should   be 
about  350.     The  weight  of  the  sliver  is 
50  grains  and  the  production  for  this 
class  of  goods  is  475  pounds  per  week 
of  60  hours.     Strip,     grind,     etc.,     the 
same  as  when  Sea  Island     cotton     is 
used.     In    mills   that     are     especially 
eqaipped    for  fine  counts  of  yarn   the 
wire  on   the   card   will  be  fine.     After 
leaving    the    card,    the    fiill    cans    are 
put  up  to  the  sliver  lap  machine.  In  the 
general  type  used  the  machine  has  16 
ends  doubled  into  1  at  the  front.  This 
lap  weighs  about  295  grains  per  yard. 
These  laps  are  put  up  at  the  ribbon 
laip  machine  and  doubled  six  into  1.  The 
weight  per  yard  of  lap  at  this  machine 
is  275.     This  is  for  a  six-head  comber. 
The  comber  is  the  next  machine  and 
at  this  machine  the  laps  are  doubled 
6  into  1.     The  settings    of    this     ma- 
chine should  be  the  same  as  when  Sea 
Island  cotton  of  the  same    length     is 
used.     The  weight  per  yard     of     th« 
combed    sliver   is   40    grains,    and    the 
speed  of  the  comber  90  nips  per  min- 
ute. Several  recipes  for     varnish     for 
the   leather-covered     top     rolls     hare 
been  previous'ly  given  and  the  follow- 
ing 

RECIPE 

will  be  found  to  be  an  excellent  addi- 
tion to  those  already  given:  Eight 
ounces  of  plate  glue.  8  ounces  of  ground 
gelatine,  12  ounces  of  burnt  sienna, 
one  ounce  of  oil  origanum,  three  pints 
acetic  acid,  one  pint  of  water.  The  rib 
bon  laps  should  be  sized  twice  a  day 
and  a  variation. of  five  grains  per  yard 
either  side  of  the  standard  weight  al- 
lowed before  changing.  The  combed 
sliver  is  next  put  through  two  proces- 
es  of  drawing  frames,  the  weight  per 
yard  of  a  yard  of  finished  drawing  be- 
ing 60  grains.  The  doublings  at  these 
machines  are  6  into  1.  Size  the  finish- 
ers four  times  daily  and  allow  two 
grains  per  yard  before  changing.  The 
cotton  is  next  put  through  the  slubber 
and  made  into  .60  hank  roxing.  This 
is  then  put  through  three  processes  of 
fly  frames,  at  the  first  intermediate  be- 
ing made  into  1.50  hank  roving,  at 
the  second  interme(iiat.e  4.50  and  at  the 
fine  frame  16  hank.     Egj-ptian  cotton 


requires  an  extra  tooth  of  twist  as  com- 
pared with  Sea  Island  cotton  of  the 
same  length  of  staple  and  hank  rov- 
ing. The  mdddJe  top  rolls  on  the  fine 
or  jack  frame  should  not  be  dead 
weighted.  This  roving  is  taken  to  the 
spinning  i-oom  and  made  into  80s  yam 
(filling)  on  a  frame  with  a  li/4-inch 
diameter  ring,  5-inch  traverse,  29.07 
twist  per  inch  and  spindle  speed  of  7,- 
400.  This  yarn  is  then  taken  and  con- 
ditioned. 


GINGHAMS. 

Carding  and  Spinning   Particulars. 
The  yarns   that   make   up  ginghams 
(common)    vary    from    26s   to   40s   for 
both   warp   and  filling.     For  the   sam- 
ple  of  gingham   under  description  we 
will  consider  the  yarns  to  be  No.  40s 
for  both  warp  and  filling.     This  yam 
would  be  made  from  a  medium  grade 
of  peeler  cotton   of  about   1   3-16-inch 
-staple.     The    cotton    after    being    put 
through  a  bale  breaker  or  .an  opener 
known  as  a   preparer   is   put   through 
three  processes  of  pickers  at  the  break- 
er picker.  The  speed  of  the  three-blad- 
ed  beater  should  be  1,150  revolutions 
per  minute,  and  of  the  two-bladed  beat- 
er of  the  same  machine,  1.400  revolu- 
tions per  minute.  The  total  weight  of 
the  lap  should  be  40  pounds,  or  a  16- 
ounce    lap.     At    the    intermediate    the 
speed  of  the  beater  should     be     1,400 
for       a       rigid       two-ibladed       beater. 
The     total     weight     of     lap       should 
be  38   pounds    or    a     12%-ounce  lap. 
The  finisher  picker  should  be  equipped 
with  a  pin  beater,  the  speed  of  which 
should  be  1,425  revolutions  per  minute. 
The   weight   of   a    full    lap    should    be 
39  pounds  or  a  14-ounce  lap. 

At  the  card  use  the  same  settings, 
etc.,  as  given  for  indigo  prints.  The 
fiats  should  make  one  complete  revo- 
lution every  50  to  55  minutes.  Sperd  of 
doffer  should  be  350  revolutions  per 
minute. 

THE  WEIGHT 
of  the  sliver  should  be  60  grains  per 
.vard  and  the  production  800  pounds  for 
a  week  of  60  hours.  The  sliver  is  next 
put  through  three  proces.ses  of  draw- 
ing frames,  the  speed  of  the  finishei- 
drawing  being  400  revolutions  per  min- 
ute. Watch  the  settings, and  size  at  this 
place  four  times  a  day.  a  variation  of 
two  grains  either  sicfe  of  standard 
weight  being  allowed. 
The  weight  of  the  sliver  at  the  fin- 


342 


APPENDIX. 


Isher  drawing  should  be  70  graJins  per 
yard.  Either  metallic  or  leather  cover- 
ed top  rolls  may  be  used  to  good  ad- 
vantage on  this  stock.  The  drawing 
sliver  is  next  put  through  the  slubber 
and  made  into  .60  bank  roving.  This  is 
put  through  two  processes  of  fly  frames 
and  made  into  2  hank  roving  at  the 
first  intermediate  and  8  hank  at  the 
second.  Watch  the  tension  and  waste 
and  be  especially  careful  of  mix-ups. 
Size  the  fine  roving  at  least  once  a  day. 
The  roving  is  taken  to  the  spinning 
room  and  made  into  40s  on  a  warp 
frame  with  a  1%-dnch  ring,  6y2-inch 
traverse,  28.46  twist  per  inch  and  a 
spindle  speed  of  10,000  revolutions  per 
minute.  The  yam  is  then  spooled  and 
warped,  after  which  it  is  run  through 
the  slasher.  A  good  size  is  as  follows: 
water,  100  gallons;  potato  starch,  54 
pounds;  Yorkshire  gum,  2  pounds; 
white   soap.    1^/^   pounds. 

The  8  hank  roving  for  filling  yarn 
is  made  on  a  frame  with  1%-inch  di- 
ameter ring.  514-inch  traverse,  23.72 
twist  per  inch  and  a  spindle  speed  of 
8,800  revolutions  per  minute.  This 
yam  is   then  conditioned. 


SCRIM, 


Carding  and  Spinning  Particulars. 

Scrim  is  made  of  cotton  counts  of 
yarn  from  20s  to  40s.  For  this  article 
we  will  consider  the  cotton  to  be 
1  3-16-inch  staple  peeler  of  a  me- 
dium of  32s  count.  This  class  of  goods 
is  made  in  mills  of  the  first  division  as 
given  in  a  nrevious  article.  Large  mix- 
ings should  be  made  by  hand  and  the 
cotton  is  then  put  through  an  opener 
and  three  processes  of  pickers.  The 
breaker  picker  has  two  sets  of  cages 
and  two  beaters,  the  back  beater  hav- 
ing three  blades  and  making  1.050  rev- 
olutions per  minute.  The  front  beater 
has  two  blades  and  makes  1,300  revo- 
lutions per  minute.  The  total  weight 
of  a  40-yard  lap  at  this  machine  is  40 
pounds,  or  a  16-ounce  lap.  The  sneed 
of  the  beater  of  the  intermediate 
beater  (two  bladed)  should  be  1,400 
revolutions  per  minute,  and  the  total 
weight  of  the  lap  is  37y?  pounds, or  a 
12-on.nce  lap.  At  the  finisher  the  lap 
shoo",  i  ^vei2■h  39  pounds. or  a  14i/^-ounce 
lap.  while  the  soeed  of  the  beater  (of  a 
pin  tyne^  should  be  1.400  revolutions 
l)er  minute.  Every  lap  should  be 
weighed  pi  .i  a  variation  of  half  a 
pound  either  side  of  standard  weight 
allowed  to  pass,  all  others  being  put 
back  to  be  run  over  again. 


THE  CARD  CLOTHING 

should  be  of  a  medium  count  wire,  the 
wire  for  doffer  and  top  flats  being 
two  points  finer  than  the  cylin- 
der. The  draft  of  card  should  be  about 
100  and  the  sliver  should  weigh  65 
grains  per  yard.  The  production 
should  be  750  pounds  for  a  week  of  60 
hours,  For  other  particulai-s  for  card 
follow  those  given  for  indigo  prints. 
The  cotton  is  next  put  through  the 
sliver  lap  machine  and  doubled  16  in- 
to 1,  the  lap  weighing  320  grains  per 
yard.  These  laps  are  put  up  at  the 
ribbon  lap  and  doubled  6  into  1,  the 
weight  per  yard  being  440  grains  for 
a  lap  101/^  inches  in  width.  These 
lai)s  are  put  up  to  an  eight-head  comb- 
er and  made  into  a  OS-grain  sliver,  tak- 
ing out  17%  per  cent  of  waste.  For 
roller  varnish  and  other  particulars 
about  comber,  see  article  on  madras. 
The  comber  sliver  is  put  through  two 
processes  of  drawing  frames,  the  doub- 
lings being  6  into  1  at  each  process. 
The  weight  per  yard  of  the  finished 
drawing  is  75  grains.  The  same  roller 
varnish  may  be  used  on  the  drawing 
frames  as  at  the  comber.  Size  four 
times  a  day  and  look  out  for  the 
knock-off  motions  to  see  that  they  are 
in  proper  working  order.  The  sliver 
is  next  put  through  the  slubber  and 
inade  into  .60  hank  roving.  This  Is 
then  put  through  two  processes  of  fly 
frames  or  speeders,  the  hank  roving 
at  each  being  as  follows:  First  inter- 
mediate 2  hank,  and  fine  6V2  hank. 
Keep  the  leather  top  rolls  in  good 
condition  and  watch  to  stop  double, 
single   and  bunches. 

THE    ROVING 

is  then  taken  to  the  spinning  room  and 
spun  into  32s  on  a  warp  frame  with  a 
1%-inch  diameter  ring,  6%-inch  trav- 
erse, 26.87  twist  per  inch  aod  spindle 
speed  of  10,000  revolutions  per  minute. 
The  yarn  is  then  spooled,  warped  and 
run  through  the  slasher,  where  it  is 
put  through  a  special  size. 

The  roving  for  the  filling  is  spun 
into  32s  on  a  frame  with  a  1%-inch 
di!3  meter  ring,  6-inch  traverse,  21.21 
twist  per  inch  and  a  spindle  speed  of 
8.800  revolutions  per  minute.  This 
yarn   is  conditioned. 

Some  of  the  white  cloths,  such  as 
ducks,  pique,  etc.,  which  in  most  sea- 
sons are  always  white,  may  be  dyed  to 
follow  a  freak  of  fashion. 

CREAM. 

For  100  pounds  goods,  two  ounces 
immedial  yelow  D;  2  ounces  imme- 
dial  cutch  B;    1  pound   sulphite  sodi- 


APPENDIX. 


343 


um;  20  ipounds  salt;  14  pound  soda  ash. 
MAUVE. 
Two  ounces  diamine     violet     N;   10 
pounds  Glauber's;  1  pound  sal  soda. 
EORU. 
One-half   pound   immediaJl   cutch   G; 
4  ounces  immedial  yellow  D;  2  pound* 
sulphide  sodium;     10     pounds  salt;   1 
pound  soda  ash. 

SKY  BLUE. 
One    pound    immedial    indone    B;    2 
pounds    sulphide    sodium;     2    pounds 
soda  ash;  10  pounds  salt. 

LIGHT  SLATE. 
One    and  one-half  pounds  immedial 
black  N  R  T;  3  pounds  sulphide  sodi- 
um; 20  pounds  salt;  2  pounds  soda  ash. 


PIQUE, 


Carding    and   Spinning    Particulars. 

The  yams  for  pique  vary  according 
to  the  quality  wanted.  A  good  quality 
and  average  grade  of  pique  may  b« 
made  from  30s  yarns  of  1%-inch  peel- 
er cotton  (carded).  After  being  put 
through  a  bale  breaker  the  cotton  Is 
put  through  three  processes  of  pickers, 
the  speed  of  the  beater  at  each  process 
being  as  follows:  1,500  revolutions  per 
minute  (two-bladed  beater)  for  the 
breaker  picker,  1,400  for  the  interme- 
diate picker  (two  blades),  and  1,375  to 
1,450  for  the  finisher  picker,  according 
to  the  grade  of  cotton  used.  The  to- 
tal weight  of  a  finished  lap  should  be 
35  pounds  or  a  12%-ounce  lap.  At  the 
card  the  draft  should  not  be  l©sis  than 
100  or  more  than  110.  The  flats  (110) 
make  one  revolution  every  37  minutes. 
Strip  three  times  a  day.  The  weight  of 
sliver  should   be   60  grains   per   yard; 


production,  750  pounds  for  a  week  of 
60    hours. 

The  card  sliver  should  be  put 
through 

THREE  PROCESSES 
of  drawing  frames.  These  should  be 
equipped  with  leather  covered  top 
rolls,  the  speed  of  the  front  roll  of  the 
finisher  drawing  being  350  to  400  rev- 
olutions per  minute,  according  to  pro- 
duction required.  The  weight  of  the 
sliveir  from  this  frame  should  be  75 
grains   per  yard. 

This  sliver  is  put  through  the  slub- 
ber and  made  into  .50  hank  roving.  For 
9s  filling  yarn  the  slubber  roving  is 
put  through  one  process  of  fly  frames 
and  is  made  into  2  hank  roving.  If  a 
large  quantity  of  pique  is  being  made 
the  yarn  for  9s  may  be  made  of  a  much 
lower  grade  and  staple  of  cotton,  but 
otherwise  it  is  better  to  construct  the 
yarn  by  the  method  given. 

The  slubber  roving  for  30s  yam  is  put 
through  two  processes  of  fly  fraimes, 
at  the  first  intermediate  being  made 
into  2  hank  and  at  the  second  being 
made  into  7.50  hank.  This  roving  is 
taken  to  the  spinning  room  and  spun 
into  30s  on  a  warp  frame  having  a  di- 
ameter of  ring  1%  inches,  length  of 
traverse  6i/^  inches,  twist  per  inch, 
26.02  and  a  spindle  speed  of  9,800  rev- 
olutions per  minute.  This  yarn  is 
then  spooled  and  warped,  after  which 
it   is  run   through  the  slasher. 

The  No.  9s  yam  is  made  on  a  filling 
spinning  frame  with  a  1%-inch  diame- 
ter ring,  7-inch  traverse,  9.75  twist  and 
a  spindle  speed  oif  6,200  revolutions  per 
minute. 

The  30s  yam  is  made  on  a  frame 
with  a  1%-inch  diameter  ring,  6-inch 
traverse,  19.17  twist  per  inch  and  a 
spindle  speed  of  8,300  revolutions  per 
minute. 


The  Crotjan,  Lobe  Company 


WHOLESALE     AUCTIONEERS 


307  and  309  West  Baltimore  Street,  Baltimore,  Md. 


WoolBit  Sales  Evmry  Thuraday. 


I  DSr  ID  E  IS  . 


A 

Albatross 162 

Alhan»bra    Quilt See  Crochet  Quilts 204 

Army    Duck Duck     56 

Awning  Stripe  Duck Duck     56 


Back<;ioth 338 

Baline     326 

Barathea    298 

Bath    Robes See    Terry 29 

Batiste   125 

Bayadere 102 

Bayadere  of  Mercerized  Cotton 112 

Bedford     Cord 152 

Bedspreads   See  Crochet  Quilts 204 

Satin  Quilts 211 

Marseilles  Quilts 3,  116,  207 

Beige    275 

Bengal    Stripes 313 

Biaz    270 

Bishop's    Lawn 308 

Book    Muslin 258 

Boucle    106 

Bourrette     79 

Braid    Wicking See   La:mp   Wicking. 318 

Brighton    328 

Brilliante     255 

Briiliantine     141 

Brocateile    167 

Buckram    195 

Butcher's    Muslin 176 

c 

Calico     144 

Cambric     181 

Cambric,   Kid   Finish 273 

Canton     Flannel 53 

Canvas     337 

Cashmere    Twill 110 

Cassimere,    Cotton 218 

Chambray 51 

Checks     See  Ginghams 9,  15,  118,  341 

Osnaburg     62 

Satin  Checks 288 

Shadow    Checks 297 

Stop-Peg   Checks 188,  243 

Tartans    100,  192 

Cheesecloth     132 

Cheviot  Shirting 66 

344 


INDEX. 


345 


^*^'"*^    156 

Coburg   Suiting... 

Corded  Fabrics See  Barathea. . . . . . . . . .  * . . . . .'  [  298 

Bedford    Cord 152 

Corduroy     45 

Eolienne    320 

Pique   ..; 3,  114,  343 

Poplin    278 

Corduroy  

Cottonade    

Cotton    Cassimere 2ia 

Cotton-Mohair  Fabrics 280 

Cotton  Worsted,  Men's  Wear 35 

Counterpanes See  Quilts 

Coverlets    See  Quilts 

Crammed  Stripes See  Unequally  Reeded  Stripes.    240 

^'^^"^    12.339 

Crash,    Hammock « 

^'"^p°"« i"^!i ""!!!' ";;!!;;;;;;;;;;;  302 

Cretonne g2 

Crinkle    .......].  32 

Crinoline   ^ ^q 

Crochet    Quilts 204 

Curtain    Cloth See  Shade  Cloth 306 

Curtain    Duck See  Duck 56 

D 

Damask   2i 

Denim    __ 

Dhooties 237 

Diaper    Cloth 325 

Dimity 48 

Dimity,    Indian 248 

Domet    ^_ 

Doria    Stripes See  Unequally  Reeded  Stripes.  240 

Drapery  Fringe See  Hammock  Crash 7 

°^'"    72 

Duck     55 

Duree   Quilt See  Satin  Quilts 211 

E 
^°"^"*e    320 

Etamine     ^22 

F 

Farmer's   Satin .See  Italian  Cloth 128 

Felting,  Table See  Silence  Cloth 292 

Filling     Reversibles '^4 

Flannel,    Canton _» 

00 

Flannel,   Domet  or  Outing ^3 

Flannelette   y. 

Foundation     Muslin 291 

'^'■'"9®    See  Hammock   Crash 7 

•^"^^'^ns    See   Velveteens 134 


346  INDEX. 

c 

Galatea     329 

Gingham,    Common 9,  341 

Gingham,    Madras ^ 118 

Gingham,   Zephyr 15 

Gloria    Cloth 334 

Grenadine    251 

H 

Haircloth  See     Crinoline 19 

Hammock   Cloth 26,  339 

Hammock    Crash , 6 

Handkerchiefs 322 

Henrietta 178 

Herringbone   Stripes 283 

Hickory    Stripes 58 

Honeycomb     327 

Honeycomb   Crash    Toweling 12 

Honeycomb  Quilt See  Crochet  Quilts 204 

Huckaback    Towels 12,  227 

I 

Imitation    Gauze 230 

India    Linen 261 

Indian    Dimity 248 

Indigo   Prints 198 

Irish    Poplin See     Poplin 278 

Italian    Cloth 128 


Jean    90 

K 

Kensington    Quilts See  Satin  Quilts 211 

Kid    Finish    Cambric , 273 

Kno  or   Loop   Cloth 300 

L 

Lamp    Wicking 317 

Lappet    Grenadine 251 

Laundry    Bags See   Scrim 6 

Lawn     97 

Lawn,    Bishop's 308 

Lawn,  Union   Linen 286 

Lawn,    Victoria 267 

Leno     Fabrics 200 

Also  see  Leno  Waisting 40 

Madras  Gingham 118 

Leno    Waisting 40 

Linen  Finish  Suiting 270 

Linings,  Combed   Yarn 108 

Linings,     Orleans 294 

Linings,    Taffeta    Silk 264 

Also  see  Cambric 181 

Italian  Cloth 128 

Silesia  94 

Linon    261 

Long     Cloth 193 

Loop  Cloth 300 

Also   see   Boucle 106 


I 


INDEX.  347 

IVI 

Madras     8,  340 

IVIadras    Gingham 118 

Marseilles    Quilts 3,  116,  207 

Mock     Leno 230 

Also  see  Canvas 337 

Mitcheline  Quilts See  Satin  Quilts 211 

Mull     260 

Muslin,   Book 258 

Muslin,     Butcher's 176 

Muslin,    Foundation 291 

N 

Nainsook 186 

Nankeen    or    Nankin 290 

Netting     See   Scrim 5 

Novelty   Dress   Goods 69 

o 

Ondule    221 

Organdie    158 

Orleans    Linings 294 

Osnaburg     62 

Outing   or   Domet  Cloth 13 


Percale     148 

Percaline   150 

Pique    3,    114,  343 

Plaids,     Tartan 100,  192 

Also  see  Checks. 

Poplin     278 

Prints,    Indigo 198 

Prints,    Calico 144 

Also  see  Chintz 156 


Quilts.   Crochet 204 

Quilts,   Marseilles 3,    116,  207 

Ouilts,    Satin 211 

R 

Raincloth     215 

Reversibles,     Filling 234 

Robes     310 


Sateen  or  Satine 173 

Satin   Checks 288 

Satin  Stripes See  Unequally  Reeded  Stripes.  240 

Satin     Quilts 211 

Scr i  m    5,  342 

Seersucker    32 

Shade     Cloth 306 

Shadow    Checks 297 

Sheeting     64, 

Shirting,    Cheviot 66 

Shirting,     Fancy 81 

Silence     Cloth 292 

Silesia     94 

Spots  Formed  With  Extra  Warp 187 

Stop-Peg     Checks 243 

Also  see  Raised  Stripe  Plaid..  188 

Stripes.   Bengal 313 


348  INDEX. 

Stripes,     Herringbone 283 

Stripes,     Hickory 58 

Stripes.    Sa-in 240 

Stripes    Unequally   Reeded 240 

Suitinj     Coburg 271 

Suiting,  Linen   Finish 270 

'                                                    Also  see  Bourre'tte 79 

SusperVder    Webbing 246 

T 

Tablecovers    See   Damask 21 

Table    Felting See  Silence  Cloth 292 

Taffeta   Silk    Lining   or  Taffetine 264 

Tape     84 

Tarlton     164 

Tartan    Plaids'. 100,  192 

Terry   Cloth 29,  171 

Terry    Pop<in See    Poplin 278 

Ticking     59 

Also  see  Satine 174 

Tire    Fabrics 183 

Toweling^  Crash , 12 

Toweling,   Damask 21 

Toweling,    Honeycomb 327 

Toweling,   Huckaback 227 

Toweling,  Terry  or  Turkish 29,  171 

Tubular  Fabrics 

Tucks     4- 

Turkey    Red 31S 

Turkish    Toweling 29,  171 

u 

Umbrella     Cloths 226- 

Also  see  Gloria  Cloth 334 

Unequally    Reeded    Stripes 240 

Union    Linen    Lawns 286 

Upholstery    Goods See   Brocatelle 167 

Chintz    156 

Corduroy     45 

Cretonne    92 

Satine     173 


Veiour    332 

Velverets     , See    Velveteen 134 

Velveteen    134- 

Velveteen,    Cutting 13& 

Vesting 85 

Victoria     Lawn 267 

w 

Waisting,     Leno 40 

Webbing,     Suspender 246 

Wicking,     Lamp 317 


Zephyr    Gingham IS 


NON-FLUID  OILS 


NON-r  LvJID  OILS  represent  a  radical  improve- 
meat  in  lubrication  over  fluid  oils  and  greases — Fluid  oils  drip 
and  spatter  and  waste.  Greases  have  to  be  softened  by 
frictional  heat  before  they  begin  to  lubricate  and  hence 
actually  increase  friction  instead  of  reduce  it. 

NON-FIvXJID  OIL^S  are  exactly  what  their  name 
implies — fluid  oils  rendered  non-fluid.  The}'  have  all  the 
friction-reducing  power  of  the  best  mineral  oils  ;  all  the 
cleanliness,  econoui}-  and  ease  of  application  of  greases. 

NON— FL/\JID  OIL/tS*  are  emplo5'ed  with  wonder- 
ful success  for  the  lubrication  of  mill  machinery  in  many  of 
the  largest  textile  mills  in  the  United  States. 

TEST  SAMPLES  FREE,  BY  PAID  EXPRESS. 

THE  NE^  YORK  &  NE^  JERSEY  LUBRICANT  COMPANY 
14-16  CHURCH  ST.,  NEW  YORK  CITY. 


Pure  Crystal  Water 

FOR   TEXTILE  MILLS 

G  I  X^  E>  S 

Brilliant,  Uniform  Colors;  Light  Shades  Absolutely  Matched 
Pure  Whites,  Free  from  Spots. 

JVX  E^  A.  IV  S 

Better  Quality ;   Increased  Demand ;  More  Customers ;  Larger 
Profits. 

COST® 

Little  to  Install ;  Almost  Nothing  to  Operate ;   Lasts  a  Lifetime. 


Pressure  and  Gravity  Filters.  Water  Softeners 

HUNGERFORD  FILTER  CORPORATION 

308  Harrison  Building.  PHILADELPHIA,  PA. 


Automatic  Fricflion  ClutcH 


There  has  been  for  a  long  time  a  demand  for 
an  automatic  friction  clutch.  In  many  inatancea 
where  clutches  are  used,  the  Instant  that  it  is 
thrown  into  contact  there  is  an  Immense  strain 
upon  beWs,  bearings,  shaftings,  etc.,  and  it  hag 
always  been  Impossible  to  overcome  this  defect. 
On  a  woolen  card,  for  instance,  we  know  that 
when  it  is  started  up  the  belt  is  thrown  on 
gradually,  that  the  operative  or  whoever  starts  up 
the  set  has  to  sUnd  by  each  belt  and  gradually 
start  the  cylinder.  In  a  room  where  there  are 
perhaps  100  looms  or  10  sets  of  cards,  a  great 
deal  of  unnecessary  wear  and  tear  could  be  obvi- 
ated if  it  were  possible  to  economically  apply 
power  gradually.  Up  to  the  present  time,  how- 
ever, it  has  been  Impossible  to  obtain  this  de- 
sired  condition. 

Recently  there  has  been  perfected  the  Hilllard 
Automatic  Clutch,  which  has  the  following  spe- 
cial  features. 

THE   SPECIAL    FEATURES 
of  the   Hilliard  Automatic   Clutch  are  as  follows: 

First:  It  Is  not  manually  operated  only  In  so 
far  as  engaging  and  disengaging  of  mechanism 
Is  concerned.  This  is  accomplished  by  means  of 
a  small  shifting  lever  that  can  be  thrown  in  and 
out  at  will  on  any  size  clutch  with  thumb  ajid 
forefinger.  As  a  result,  no  expensive  shifting  de- 
vice is  necessary. 

Second:  The  clutch  is  entirely  automatic  In 
BO  far  as  application  of  tension  to  frictional  parts 
is  concerned.  This  result  is  obtained  by  means 
of  gear  driven  mechanism  actuated  by  driving 
member,  insuring  a  more  gradual  and  accurate  in- 
crease of  friction  and  a  more  positive  drive  than 
is  now  possible  to  obtain  by  the  use  of  any  other 
clutch   on   the   market. 

Tbird:    The  clutch  bting  automatic  in  adjust- 


ment, machinery  connected  therewith  is  started 
gradually  and  as  slowly  as  practicable  in  con- 
formity with  any  given  speed  of  power  transmis- 
sion; all  e.xcess  strain  and  wear  on  line-shafting, 
hangers,  pulleys  and  belting  is,  therefore,  en- 
tirely   eliminated. 

Kourtli:  Release  is  obtained  instantly  by 
throwing  out  the  hand  lever  to  disengag«  the 
driven  from  the  driving  mechanism,  there  being 
no   unwinding   of   parts    to  accomplish  this   result. 

Fiftli:  The  automatic  self-tightening  of 
clutch  takes  care  of  all  increased  loads,  the  mech- 
anism being  so  constructed  that  any  slippage  of 
clutch  will  instantly  increase  the  force  of  the 
frictional    engagement. 

Sixth:  No  end  thrust  is  created  on  shafting 
by   this   clutch. 

Seventh:  It  is  very  neat  in  design,  there 
being  no  protruding  parts,  and  is  therefore  with- 
in the  requirements  of  all  factory  laws.  It  is 
economical  of  space  on  shafting,  both  as  to  length 
and   diameter  of  clutch. 

JBisIitli :  It  assures  immunity  from  effects  ot 
careless  handling  by  ignorant  or  hasty  employes; 
the  clutch  being  self-regulating,  the  machinery 
will   start  only  at   a   safe   speed. 

The  features  of  this  clutch  herein  enumerated 
make  it  especially  desirable  for  installation  in 
textile  mills  and  electric  light  plants,  and.  in 
fact,    on   any   machinery. 

We  manufacture  both  solid  and  split  clutches 
for  cut-oft  couplings,  and  with  extension  sleeve, 
for  clutch  pulleys,  ranging  in  sizes  from  25  to  1,- 
000  horse   power. 

This  clutch,  besides  being  automatic,  as  above 
described,  can  be  used  also  as  an  ordinary  fric- 
tion clutch  or  cut-off  coupling,  so  that  on  another 
machine  or  in  any  part  of  the  mill  where  it  is 
necessary  to  immediately  apply  full  power,  the 
Hilliard  clutch  can  be  used.  The  writer  has  seen 
these  clutches  in  operation  in  the  plant  of  the 
Hilliard  Clutch  &  Machinery  Co.,  at  Elmira, 
N.  Y. ,  and  has  compared  them  with  practically 
all  friction  pulleys  which  are  now  being  used  in 
textile  mills  and  he  has  never  seen  one  which 
could  do  all  of  the  work  which  the  Hilliard  clutch 
can   be    depended    upon   to  perform. 

A  neat  catalogue  with  full  description  of  the 
workings  ot  this  clutch,  fully  illustrated  and  giv- 
ing prices,    can   be   had   by   writing  to  the 


MILLIARD  CLUTCH  (Q.  MACHINH:RY  CO. 

CLMIR.A,  NE-MT  YORK 


CHAIN     BEAMERS 

COMBINED    WITH 

WARP    COMPRESSORS 


SHIPPED  SUBJECT  TO  APPROVAL 


Naming  cMachtnety 

Copper  &  Heck  Long  and  Short  Chain  Systems 
DRY  SLASHERS 

Extra  Heavy  for  Gotten  Duck 

Special  Machinery  for  Rag  and  Jute  Yarns 


.«  BUILT  BY  ... 

Worcester  Warp  Compressing  Machine  Co* 

WORCESTER,  MASS. 


The  "Perkins  Fan 


The  accompanying  cut  represents 
one  of  the  22  styles  of  Fans  which 
we  manufacture.  If  interested 
send  for  our  new  illustrated 
catalogue  No.  78,  Vol.  2,  showing 
all  the  22  styles.  It  also  gives 
general  information  as  to 

HOW  TO  VENTILATE  I 
HOW  TO  INSTALL! 
POWER  REQUIRED  I 
CAPAQTY,  ETC 


Style  "J"  Our  improved  Steel  Frame  Vertical  Fan 


B.   F.  PERKINS  &  SON,  Inc. 

Ventilating  Dept.  HOLYOKE,  MASS. 

TEXTILE  COMMISSION  CO. 

FORMERLY    73  WORTH    STREET 

NOW    LOCATED   AT 

No.  41    WORTH  STREET 

New  York  City 


BROWN    AND    COLORED 

Cotton    Goods 

Consignments  Solicited 

Philadelphia  Chicago  St.  Louis  Atlanta 


RARE  BOOKCASE 


BOUND    TO    PtEASe 


iMmm  dmmfmc] 


JAN. 65 


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